04 OCTOBER 2018 VOL. 11

E.O.P.C.

Essential oils , Perfumery & Cosmetics

OFFICIAL NEWSLETTER FOR BNAEOPC MEMBERS

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Content:

6 recyclable and sustainable packaging innovations ...................................................................... 3

Avon cuts back US operations .............................................................................................................. 4

Cargill Formulations Target ‘GreenEthic’ Consumers ........................................................................ 5

COSMOS Publishes 3.0 Documents ...................................................................................................... 6

Eastman to debut new packaging innovations at Luxe Pack Monaco ........................................ 6

Eficacy of anti-pollution ingredient shown in study ........................................................................... 7

Gender inclusive plant-based deodorant hits the market ............................................................... 8

Givaudan introduces fragrance on the move concept .................................................................. 9

Hair care innovations and trends in focus at in-cosmetics Asia .................................................... 10

How Hair ‘Smells’ Sandalwood to Reverse Baldness ....................................................................... 12

In the Thick of It: A Primer on Polyelectrolyte Crosspolymer Rheology Modifiers ........................ 12

International Expansion ........................................................................................................................ 15

Latest developments on ongoing discussions on single use plastics ............................................ 16

Sticking it to Hair Damage: Delivery Duo Protects and Repairs Inside and Out ......................... 17

Sustainability, science and selling....................................................................................................... 22

The big business of natural beauty ingredients ................................................................................ 23

Your Hair on Acid: The Influence of Carboxylic Acids ..................................................................... 25

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6 recyclable and sustainable packaging

innovations By Lucy Whitehouse

Here are some of the leading eforts in the area of sustainable packaging being made by

industry brands and companies.

1. How L’Oréal is leading on sustainability for the beauty industry

“People are more informed, regulations are developed at worldwide level, increasing the feeling of individual responsibility for environmental impacts of human activities and their effects on ecosystems,” L’Oréal recently told Cosmetics Design.

The company is making efforts across packaging, ingredients, retail and supply chain management to become a global company that leads on sustainability.

Read our full exclusive interview with Veronique Poulsen, the company’s head of environmental safety, here.

2. Beauty players win at Dow’s 30th Awards for Packaging Innovation

The highest honour, the Diamond Award, went to Procter & Gamble’s Air Assist, described as “a breakthrough in performance and sustainability for e-commerce and brick-and-mortar packaging”.

Find the full details of Dow’s awards in this report.

3. Henkel sustainable packaging: ‘ambitious targets’ set

Building on its existing efforts and progress in sustainable packaging, Henkel says it is

stepping up its commitment to further promote a circular economy. By 2025, 100% of Henkel’s packaging will be recyclable, reusable or compostable (excluding

adhesive products where residue may affect recyclability).

Within the same timeframe, Henkel aims to use 35% recycled plastic for its consumer goods products in Europe. Discover the full details here.

4. Bulldog’s new refillable product reduces plastic waste by 85% The British skin care male grooming player’s new Original Shower Gel Refill Box contains the

equivalent of 25 bottles of product, and aims to minimise plastic packaging waste. The product will retails exclusively at Whole Foods, and via the Bulldog Skincare For Men

website. Discover how it works here.

5. Lush’s new foundation: a revolution of no packaging for colour cosmetics?

Earlier this summer, Lush launched a new foundation product - the Slap Stick - which ticked several boxes for major consumer demands: it’s packaging free, vegan, and meets the needs of

diverse skin types. Read our full coverage here.

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6. L'Oréal China and Alibaba team up on green packaging Cosmetics giant, L'Oréal, and e-commerce leader, Alibaba Group, have teamed up in China

on green packaging solutions.

L'Oréal China has partnered with Alibaba to ensure all of the packaging used on its items sold in the country is environmentally friendly. This transformation will take place over the next five months.

Find the full report here.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/09/20/6-recyclable-and-sustainable-packaging-innovations

Avon cuts back US operations By Deanna Utroske

The direct-sales beauty, personal care, and wellness company announced plans this week to streamline operations in New York State. Avon is closing ofices and reducing staf, all in an

efort to “fuel growth,” according to company executives.

Despite being founded here in the States more than 125 years ago, the company’s business in North America has been struggling for

sometime, falling off the S&P 500 in March of 2015, putting this region’s business in the hands of investors in 2016, and moving corporate headquarters to the UK at the start of 2017.

And that’s not all. Company leadership has turned over, a new wellness brand has been

launched, and the iconic Avon catalog has gone digital. With headquarters now in the UK Avon is focusing on the overall global health of the

company and, accordingly, adjusting investments regionally to remain competitive.

Planning ahead "With Avon's international focus, simplifying our U.S. operations is a logical next step in providing fuel for growth, and a further example of our commitment to improve Avon's performance and become more it for purpose,” explains Jan Zijderveld, Avon’s current CEO, in

a media release about the decision to scale back. "While decisions like these that impact our employees are never easy,” he adds, “we will manage the transition in a respectful and sensitive manner.” And Zijderveld takes care to “thank all of our colleagues for their dedication to our growth plans to turnaround Avon.” Less in the US

The company’s media release (coming out of London) outlines the changes being made in New York. US operations will be consolidated at the Avon site in Suffern, New York. “This,”

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according to the release, “will include the sale of the Company's oices in Rye, New York, which is projected to be completed in 2019.” Along with the consolidation comes a reduction in staff. Avon plans to cut about 100 “positions” from it work force, a figure the Avon release describes as “consistent with the Company's previous restructuring disclosures.” ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2018/09/20/Avon-cuts-back-US-

operations

Cargill Formulations Target ‘GreenEthic’

Consumers

Animal welfare, waste reduction, ingredient transparency and brand commitment are just a few things on the minds of “GreenEthic” consumers—aka, the target for Cargill Beauty’s

System 1.0 Skin Care, which uses building blocks to create affordable and versatile formulations. The range begins with System 1.0’s “Core” of three ingredients, which are meant to improve

skin hydration and skin homogeneity. These include: a rapeseed emollient, Cargill’s Agri-Pure AP 75 R (INCI: Brassica Campestris Seed Oil); an emulsifier, Emultop Velvet IP

(INCI: Lecithin); and a fermented texturizer, Actigum VSX 20 (INCI: Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum). Texturizers may also be added to augment the core ingredients; for example, red seaweed-

derived Satiagel VPC 508 (INCI: Carrageenan) and C*HiForm A 12747 (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate), a modified corn starch.

These ingredients are then "stretched" at various use levels to create formulations with different textures and sensory effects, to keep the formulation process simple and affordable. Formulations include:

Radiant Pearl—a lightweight, fast-penetrating serum designed for Asian skin; Express Body & Face—a fast-penetrating and non-sticky milk; Hydracomfort—a gel-cream that favors the line’s emollient core ingredient;

Aqua Marine—a blue-toned, easy-to-apply serum comprising Radiant Pearl and carrageenan;

After Sunny Day—combines Express Body & Face with carrageenan to create a glossy gel-cream texture; and Perfect Night—a gel-cream with a cushion effect that mixes Hydracomfort and

starch. System 1.0 for Skin Care was showcased in the Innovation Zone at in-cosmetics Latin

America, held from Sept. 19-20, 2018, in São Paulo, Brazil. There, the company also highlighted its Phytospherix (INCI: Glycogen) ingredient, in partnership with Mirexus. For more on the formulations, visit www.cargill.com.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/natural/Cargill-

Formulations-Target-GreenEthic-Consumers-494812981.html

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COSMOS Publishes 3.0 Documents

COSMOS has published Version 3.0 of its documents. The documents, available now, include the "COSMOS-standard," "Labelling Guide," "Technical Guide," "Control Manual" and "Certifier Contract." The date of application is Jan.

1, 2019. For more information or to access, visit cosmos-standard.org.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/organic/COSMOS-Publishes-30-Documents-493940191.html

Eastman to debut new packaging innovations at

Luxe Pack Monaco By Simon Pitman

US-based packaging provider Eastman is to showcase a range of its latest packaging innovations at next week’s

Luxe Pack show, in Monaco. The company will be showcasing two brand new specialty packaging materials, Eastman Cristal EV600 copolyester

and Eastman Trēva engineering bioplastic. Both materials target the high level of aesthetics required for

quality, premium and luxury cosmetic and personal care packaging, which is why they are both being platformed at

the event. Cristal EV600

Referred to as an ‘evolution in the Glass Polymer family of cosmetic materials, Cristal EV600 is a high-flow polymer that provides a high polish effect to a range of packaging designs.

It is a solution that provides a deep and colourless transparency as well as a superior

luminosity, according to the development team, while also outperforming a range of conventional copolyesters on gate aesthetics.

The resulting finish is described as a luxurious sparkling effect, which provides heightened shelf appeal for medium- to thick-walled cosmetic packaging applications.

Trēva more sustainable

One of Trēva’s primary selling points is the fact that it is a more sustainable solution because it performs as well acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) – a material that is derived from petrochemical compounds.

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It provides opaque and colour-tinted plastic packaging aesthetics, in much the same way as ABS, but because it is not petrochemical-derived, it can help manufacturers to lower the environmentai footprint.

Eastman will also be showcasing an eco designed compact at the event, which it has designed

in conjunction with Group Rocher, and includes both Trēva and Cristal EV600. This design can be seen at the Eastman stand, DG30, in the Diaghilev Hall.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/09/28/Eastman-to-debut-new-packaging-innovations-at-Luxe-Pack-Monaco

Eficacy of anti-pollution ingredient shown in

study By Lucy Whitehouse

Lipotec Active Ingredients has performed a new clinical test in

Milan, Italy, that demonstrates the eficacy of its anti-pollution ingredient. Pollushield is a functional ingredient in lighting facial dark spots and

improving skin dullness, according to the company, composed of a combination of a polymer with metal chelating properties and a potent

free radical scavenger.

Lipotec says that the ingredient can help prevent accumulation of pollution particles in the

epidermis and replenish the skin with antioxidants, increasing its capacity to resist the harm caused by heavy metals, particulate matter (PM) and other harmful elements found in big cities and other polluted areas.

Lipotec says the efficacy of the ingredient in lightening facial dark spots and improving skin

dullness has been recently proven in its recent clinical test. Proving eficacy

The test involved 20 female volunteers between 43-69 years old with dark spots and dull complexion.

The participants each applied a cream containing 2% ingredient on half face and a placebo

cream on the other half, twice a day, and spent 2-3 hours a day in the traffic. After 14 days of treatment facial dark spots, a visible manifestation of pollution damage,

became lighter and skin dullness was reversed, giving a brighter complexion to the skin.

In addition, the participants were responded to a self-assessment evaluation questionnaire, with the majority confirming perceived changes in facial glow and a smoother skin.

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Lipotec functional ingredient can be included in cosmetic formulations seeking to provide daily anti- pollution care as well as in anti-aging products to protect skin that is sensitive or more vulnerable to ambient contaminants.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/Article/2018/10/02/Efficacy-of-anti-

pollution-ingredient-shown-in-study

Gender inclusive plant-based deodorant hits the

market By Simon Pitman

With consumer desire for natural-based but effective

deodorants a priority, a new ‘plant-powered’ deodorant called Myro has just been launched in the US. Formulated with a custom blend 100% natural time-release

fragrance containing essential oils, it also combines a mix of natural sugar- derived antimicrobial to prevent odor, alongside a

barley powder to absorb moisture, as well as safe synthetics to preserve the skin’s natural moisture barrier.

By combining these safe synthetic and natural ingredients, the launch is also tapping into the clean beauty trend, which is growing in momentum as consumers also seek out products that combine high levels of natural ingredients, combined with effective but safe synthetics.

Free-from claims

As well as ensuring the right combination of natural and effective synthetics, the brand developers have also focused on creating a formula that contains the right sort of free-from

claims.

To that end, Myro is free from of aluminum, parabens, phthalates, steareths, triclosan, propylene glycol, TEA, DEA, SLS, Talc, baking soda, artificial colors and any synthetic fragrance.

On top of all this, the packaging has also been crafted with environment in mind, by creating a highly distinctive and standout ‘pod’ design that incorporates 50% less plastic than

conventional deodorants, while also being fully recyclable and TSA-compliant for air travel requirements.

Gender inclusive

The brand has also been created around the trend for gender inclusive and gender neutral products, which has already had a significant impact on the deodorant and fragrance

categories recently. “In looking holistically at the deodorant category, things have been very stagnant,” said CEO

and founder, Greg Laptevsky. “

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“We thought this was the right time to disrupt the category and give daily routines their due. When it comes to body care products, our customers set the bar high, so we had to deliver on all fronts. With high-end, yet environmentally-friendly packaging, elevated, gender-inclusive scents, and a unique direct-to-consumer model, we aim to raise the bar higher.” Five different scents to choose from The brand is also all about choice, with five different fragrances to choose from, each of which

has been developed to be gender inclusive. The scents include Solar Flare - orange, juniper, sunflower, Big Dipper - bergamot, lavender,

vetiver, Cabin No. 5 - vetiver, patchouli, geranium, Pillow Talk - violet leaf, ylang ylang, wild amyris, and Chill Wave - cucumber, jasmine, spearmint.

While there are plans to launch other fragrances in the future, the brand is also available on a subscription model, with the starter kit coming in at $10.

“Subscription experiences are part of a modern lifestyle that includes everything from organic meals to delivery apps, and from boxed water to boxed mattresses. So why not deodorant?” said Laptevsky.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2018/09/27/Gender-inclusive-plant-based-deodorant-hits-the-market

Givaudan introduces fragrance on the move

concept By Simon Pitman

Givaudan has launched its fragrance on the move concept at last week’s in-cosmetics LATAM, highlighting another

way the fragrance category is continuing to reinvent itself. The concept is an inspiring fusion of fine fragrances and cosmetics that aims to inspire consumers to think more about

the daily personal care and beauty routines. The concept is targeting the global market, but it is particularly

pertinent that it is first unveiled at this event in Sao Paulo, Brazil, as the Latin American market is a particularly important one for all types of

fragrances. Four on the move themes

The fragrance on the move concept has been based around four principle themes: attraction,

perfection, sensation and affirmation – values that are all core to what many beauty consumers aspire to.

According to the Givaudan Active Beauty development team, the themes represent four new product concepts, each dedicated to different areas of the body and each offering different efficacy, as well as sensorial qualities.

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Those sensorial qualities are highlighted by the fact that more than 10% of the formulation for each concept consists of fragrances from the Givaudan portfolio.

Sensation: A light mist targeting freshness and featuring Evercool skin, an advanced cooling

technology, Sensation has a unique longlasting freshness power including aromatic, green and fruity olfactive notes that aims to give a sense of invigoration and hydration.

Attraction: A neck and décolleté lotion that features Megassane, a skin tone highlighter and Neurophroline, an overall skin stress control, Attraction protects the neck and décolleté while brightening the aura. The concept has musky, spicy and woody olfactive notes.

Perfection: A dry body oil SPF 20 featuring Nyamplung oil, a precious oil, Questice Liquid, a long lasting body cooler and Uniprotect PT-3, a powerful skin protector against UV, Perfection

protects and repairs the skin from all external aggressions. It is fragranced with fruity top notes enhanced with several marine notes.

Afirmation: A hair elixir with floral, fruity and woody olfactive notes, Featuring ResistHyal, a 7-in-1 hair beauty enhancer, Kendi Oil, and Glossyliance, a hair shine ingredient. Affirmation

aims to give softness, hydration and volume to hair with a glossy effect. ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/09/25/Givaudan-

introduces-fragrance-on-the-move-concept

Hair care innovations and trends in focus at in-

cosmetics Asia By Amanda Lim

in-cosmetics Asia will highlight hair care at this year’s

event, as the Asia-Pacific region sets itself on track to becoming the largest market by 2022.

The driving force behind this market trend is the increasing demand for hair care in APAC countries such as China, Malaysia, Philippines and India.

“There has never been more awareness of the importance of

caring for hair, which presents a fantastic opportunity to beauty brands,” said Sarah Gibson, Event Director of in- cosmetics Asia.

Tropical Trouble According to GlobalData’s latest figures, consumers in the region are increasingly placing a

high importance on hair and scalp health, making it the optimal time for manufacturers to push out innovative hair care products into the market.

One challenge remains constant in the APAC region is the heat and humidity often associated with limp, frizzy and greasy hair. “Asian consumers have a unique set of challenges when it comes to looking after their hair and they are now demanding innovative products that can minimise izziness and improve overall hair health,” Gibson said.

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However, with increased awareness of environmental pollution and its impact on health and beauty, Euromonitor International reports that there is a surge in demand for anti-pollution hair care products, especially in China and India.

In line with the anti-pollution trend, Xin Qu from Ashland LLC will be hosting a technical

seminar on how hair and scalp can be protected from the stress of urban living on November 1.

Hair takes centre-stage To help manufacturers and brands stay on top of this trend, in-cosmetics Asia will be unveiling its Spotlight On Haircare Actives area.

This dedicated spot aims to inspire cosmetic chemists, marketers and other industry insiders

to create innovative new products for the burgeoning APAC hair care market by showcasing unique ingredients.

“Our Spotlight On Haircare Actives will enable R&D and marketing teams source the world’s newest and most innovative ingredients, helping them tap into the latest trends,” commented Gibson.

Showcase on actives

Among the ingredients taking the spotlight are DSM Nutritional Products’s Pentavitin. With both ECOCERT approval and NATRUE certification, Pentavitin is a 100% plant-derived

ingredient that works as a soothing active for rinse-off products to deeply hydrate the scalp and relieve sensitivity.

For those interested in anti-humidity hair care, Gattefossé Asia Pacific will be showcasing how Definicire can mimic the natural hair protective lipid layer in order to control frizz,

volume and define curls even under extreme humidity. Lastly, Solvay Specialty Chemicals Asia Pacific will be presenting Polycare Split Therapy, a

naturally-derived hair care active that mends split ends at a repair rate of more than 90% after just one application.

To learn more about the future trends in hair care, attendees, Sumit Chopra, Director Research Analysis, GlobalData, will be hosting a Marketing Trends & Regulation seminar on

October 30. This special seminar will give attendees an exclusive look into future haircare trends and

highlight the opportunities available to manufacturers.

This year’s edition of in-cosmetics Asia will be taking place from October 30 to November 1 at the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITECH).

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/Article/2018/10/03/Hair-care-innovations-and-trends-in-focus-at-in-cosmetics-Asia

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How Hair ‘Smells’ Sandalwood to Reverse

Baldness

Hair follicles can “smell” via the same process in which noses perceive scent, and the right

scent might help to counteract hair loss. Enter: synthetic sandalwood, which is said to stimulate hair cell growth via olfactory receptors in the scalp. OR2AT4 is an olfactory receptor present in both skin and hair follicles; it has been shown to

promote wound healing in skin and may be stimulated by a synthetic sandalwood odoranta. Since wound healing and hair growth are closely connected, scientists questioned how the

receptor may be manipulated to treat the latter in new research published in Nature Communications.

Methods Researchers treated human scalp skin—obtained from healthy donors, aged 38-69 years,

undergoing face-lift procedures—with an application of the synthetic odorant over six days. Ex vivo testing uncovered that treated hair follicles died more slowly than untreated tissue, indicating that the synthetic odorant may spark growth factors and, in turn, keratinocyte

proliferation to prevent hair loss. This action takes place because the synthetic sandalwood binds to OR2AT4, unlike authentic

sandalwood; the synthetic counterpart allows the expression and secretion of IFG-1, which promotes hair growth. Researchers also treated separate scalp skin samples with a synthetic floral odorantb, which

inhibited hair from growing, thus illustrating the importance of OR2AT4 in hair growth. Takeaways These results show the first time that it has been shown that a human mini-organ (hair

follicles) may be remodeled in this way, according to coauthor Ralf Paus, M.D., in an interview with The Independent. Researchers are currently working on a larger-scale clinical trial on the topic. a Sandalore is a product of Symrise. b Phenirat is a product of Symrise.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/How-Hair-Smells-Sandalwood-to-Reverse-Baldness-494846801.html

In the Thick of It: A Primer on Polyelectrolyte

Crosspolymer Rheology Modifiers

Crosslinked polyelectrolyte thickeners— exemplified by carbomers, acrylate crosspolymers and acryloyldimethyltaurate crosspolymers—confer stable suspension properties, shear-

thinning rheology and stimuli-responsive behavior to aqueous formulations. Formulators have fashioned cosmetic compositions around these useful characteristics for more than half a century, but our fundamental understanding of these materials is far from complete—and,

amazingly, improvements are continually made to this class of ingredients. For example: new, stable, dry-powder “latexes” can be processed to impart either “long” or

“short” rheology;1 transparent suspending shampoos can be formulated from alkali swellable,

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acid swellable thickeners;2 or nonionic surfactant-activated microgel thickeners3-5 and superabsorbent polymers can impart emulsion stability and good skin-feel attributes.6 In addition, core-shell microgels based on a cross-linked polyacrylate core and a cationic silicone

shella,7 are effective emulsifiers. These enable formulation consistencies, ranging from thin lotions to thick creams, merely by changing the concentration or pH of the emulsions they are

stabilizing. This article reviews the relationship between structure and function for polyelectrolyte crosspolymer rheology modifiers. It also considers their behavior in different systems, for the

benefit of formulators. Chemical Potential vs. Osmotic Pressure

Formulators who have experience with carbomers know that dramatic thickening and the gelation of mucilages occurs when a base or amine is added to a carbomer dispersion.

Carbomers essentially consist of cross-linked poly(acrylic acid), and gelation/viscosification occurs when the polymer is neutralized to the corresponding acrylate salt. This increase in viscosity is caused by the osmotic swelling of the resulting polyelectrolyte.8-10

The influence of osmotic pressure can be demonstrated experimentally by placing exemplary materials inside tubular dialysis membranes and hanging them over a large tank of water so

they just barely touch the water (see Figure 1). The pores in the membranes are sufficiently large to allow the passage of small molecules such as water, sucrose and small ions such as sodium or chloride. However, polymer molecules are too large to squeeze through the dialysis

pores (see Figure 2 and Figure 3). These experiments illustrate four key scenarios. The first two relate to basic interactions in chemical potential versus osmosis; two additional examples show how osmosis affects

materials and systems of increasing size and complexity.

1. Solublility and Chemical Potential In the first scenario, when ingredients consisting of small, soluble molecules such as sugar or table salt are placed inside the dialysis tubes, the soluble molecules readily diffuse into the

reservoir water and the membrane tube “empties” through its pores. This is because the interaction between the ions and water is stronger than the interaction between the sodium

and chloride in the crystals. Under these conditions, the chemical potential driving force causes both dissolution and the diffusion of sodium and chloride ions into the bulk water until the concentration of salt is essentially homogeneous throughout the bulk aqueous

phase (see Figure 3). There are limits to the dissolution of salt in water, however. For a saturated solution, the chemical potentials for crystal formation and dissolution become equal. So, if more salt is

added to a saturated solution, the chemical potential favors crystal formation over dissolution.

2. Nonionic Polymers and Osmosis The second scenario is when a small amount, e.g., 1 g, of a nonionic polymer such as

hydroxyethylcellulose is placed in the dialysis tube. Here, the water is observed to soak into the dialysis tube and, at equilibrium, the water level in the tube will settle slightly above the

level of water in the larger tank. In this case, the water-soluble polymer molecules (the solute) are too large to escape through the pores of the dialysis membrane and, since the polymer cannot diffuse into the water, the water diffuses into the polymer in attempt to form a

homogeneous solution (see Figure 3). In this case, the polymer solution is formed by diffusion of the water into the dialysis tube. Oil droplets and particulates take up space. As such, critical concentrations for polymers in

these combined systems will be lower. The driving force for this process is osmosis. The osmotic pressure driving the water into the

dialysis tube is proportional to the molar concentration of solute, and the concentration of water will continue to rise in the tube until the pressure head of water becomes equal to the

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osmotic pressure. Note that the osmotic pressure arises from the configurational entropy of the chains; but this discussion will be reserved for a future review. Concentration regimes: It is important to understand the dynamics occurring as system

concentrations are formed. As the water diffuses into the polymer solution, three distinct

concentration regimes are formed, in sequence: concentrated, semi-dilute and dilute. Knowledge of these three regimes aids the formulator in designing storage-stable compositions that confer desired topical sensory effects. Transitions between these regimes

occur at critical polymer concentrations—namely, the critical overlap and critical entanglement concentrations. Throughout these transitions, the polymer’s molecular shape and size in solution changes,

depending upon the nature of the solvent. Polymers can be regarded as “springs” that expand in good solvents and shrink in poor ones. Therefore, the critical concentrations depend upon

the nature of the composition in which the polymer is dissolved. Moreover, oil droplets in emulsions and particulates in dispersions also take up space in a composition, leaving less space for the polymers. As a consequence, the critical concentrations for polymers in

emulsions and dispersions will be lower than for pure polymer solutions. Critical overlap and critical entanglement: When a polymer first dissolves in a limited

amount of solvent, the polymer concentration will be fairly high and the dissolved polymers’ molecular chains will be entangled with each other. As more solvent diffuses into the

solution, the polymer concentration will drop below the critical entanglement concentration, denoted as Ce, and the system will enter the semi-dilute regime. In the semi-dilute regime, the

polymer molecules overlap each other but they are no longer entangled. Eventually, with further dilution, the polymer chains will pass the critical overlap concentration, denoted as C*, and enter the dilute regime, in which the polymer molecules each occupy their own

exclusive volume in solution and do not overlap with each other. C* and Ce reiterated: Given the importance of where C* and Ce occur in formulations, it is

worth reiterating what these concentrations mean. In the dilute regime, ideally, the polymer molecules are isolated in solution and are free to diffuse, driven by Brownian motion. The

upper limit of the dilute regime is C*, the critical overlap concentration. This concentration can be visualized as the concentration at which the polymers just touch sufficiently to reach

the percolation threshold of the system. Above C*, the system enters the semi-dilute regime. At a higher critical concentration, i.e., the

critical entanglement concentration or Ce, the system enters the concentrated regime. Ideal polymers in the concentrated regime entangle, and the polymer matrix becomes self-similar throughout the solution.

The locations of C* and Ce are usually determined by plotting the solution-specific viscosity as a function of polymer concentration. The positions of C* and Ce can then be detected as

discontinuities in the curve (see Figure 4).11 continue reading in the Digital Edition... References

1. US Pat App 2018/0169445, Stable rheology modifiier compositions, K Rodrigues, A Bailey et al, applied for by Akzo Nobel Chemicals International B.V. (Jun 21, 2018)

2. US Pat App 2018/0185263, Clear suspending personal care cleaning compositions, M Fevola, T Fuetterer, J Martin, S Shah and A Zhuk, applied for by Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. (Jul 5, 2018)

3. US Pat 9,096,755, Surfactant responsive microgels, K Chari, S-J Hsu, W-Y Yang, B Prachur and M Kadir, assigned to Lubrizol Advanced Materials (Aug 4, 2015)

4. US Pat App 2016001562, Surfactant responsive microgel polymers and methods to

mitigate the loss of silicone deposition from keratinous substrates, D Rafferty, B Figura, W-Y Yang and K Chari, assigned to Lubrizol Advanced Materials (Jan 21, 2016)

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5. US Pat App 20160304646, Surfactant responsive microgels, S-J Hsu, K Chari and S Li, assigned to Lubrizol Advanced Materials (Oct 20, 2016)

6. US Pat 9,839,598, Superabsorbent polymers and sunscreen actives for use in skin care

compositions, P Tanner and Manohar, assigned to The Procter & Gamble Company (Dec 12, 2017)

7. momentive.com/products/literature/silsoft-eau-microgel-marketing-bulletin/ (accessed Aug 24, 2018)

8. PJ Flory, Principles of Polymer Chemistry, Cornell University Press (1953) pp 629-637

9. A Katchalsky and Z Alexandrowicz, On the additivity of osmotic properties of polyelectrolyte—Salt solutions, J Polymer Sci A 1(6) 2093 (1963)

10. Q Liao, AV Dobrynin and M Rubinstein, Molecular dynamics simulations of

polyelectrolyte solutions, osmotic coefficient and counterion condensation, Macromolecules 36 3399 (2003)

11. V Padman, Doctoral dissertation, University of Southern Mississippi (2012) ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/function/aids/In-the-Thick-

of-It-A-Primer-on-Polyelectrolyte-Crosspolymer-Rheology-Modifiers-494627411.html

International Expansion By Deanna Utroske

Beauty, personal care, and fragrance manufacturers are

growing bigger and growing globally. In recent months there have been notable investments in construction, acquisitions, and corporate expansions into new markets. Here, Cosmetics

Design looks at some of the latest global expansion projects.

Building

Flexible packaging specialist Amcor broke ground last month in Wisconsin, where the company is expanding its existing manufacturing facility. The $25m project will not only add

to Amcor’s production capacity but also improve product quality, reduce waste, and update technologies, according to a press release about the investment.

And earlier this year, Australian skin care maker Jurlique announced plans for a $30m production facility near their existing ingredient farm in Adelaide Hills. As Jon Westover, managing director of global operations, explained in comments to Business News Australia:

“Jurlique is over 30 years old and up until now has been operating out of another facility, and we’ve maxed that out. So to go forward into the future, we needed a signifficantly increased capacity and capability.” Read more about that expansion here on Cosmetics Design-Asia. Buying

Firmenich-owned fragrance maker Agilex bought Fragrance West this summer to expand

business on the West Coast. “The West Coast of the US is a unique ecosystem with thriving start-ups driving technology breakthroughs and natural lifestyle trends,” noted Armand de

Villoutreys, president of perfumery and ingredients at Firmenich, when the acquisition was announced. He went on to say that “By expanding our presence on the West Coast, this acquisition advances our vision to shape the future of fragrance with leading innovation.”

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Here on the East Coast, Arcade Beauty purchased nearly all the operating assets of Suite K. As Cosmetics Design reported at the time, “For Arcade Beauty the deal is all about business expansion. The company is taking on Suite K’s 78,000 square foot production facility in Dayton, New Jersey—and not just the building, the equipment as well.” Border crossing In September, Faber Castell Beauty announced plans for a first US-based manufacturing

facility. The German company has been in the makeup business for 40 years and for quite some time was producing product solely in that country. In 2013 Faber Castell opened a

plant in Brazil. And now the company is moving ahead on plans for a new facility in Elgin, Illinois.

“This is a big step for us,” Countess Mary Von Faber-Castell acknowledged in remarks to the press, “but an even bigger step for our customers,” she said, “since we will be starting several

different product lines tailored to their needs.” A comment that suggests the new vertically integrated Faber Castell facility will create makeup pen and pencil solutions expressly for the

North American market. US-based Bell Flavors & Fragrances opened offices this summer in Indonesia and Thailand.

The fragrance supply company already has manufacturing around the world (including Asian sites like Shanghai, China and Singapore). But as with Faber Castell, the new Bell locations allow the company to “capture [regional] consumer preferences more accurately,” according to a

media release about the sales and warehousing facilities in Indonesia and Thailand.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2018/10/01/International-Expansion-cosmetics-personal-care-fragrance-and-packaging-manufacturing

Latest developments on ongoing discussions on

single use plastics

The European Parliament and the Council of the European Union continue their respective

internal negotiations internally to define their positions for the trilogues on the proposal for a directive on the reduction of the impact of certain plastic products on the environment, the

so-called Single use plastic Directive. The political agenda in the EU institutional landscape (which also involves the European

Commission) is to achieved negotiating positions by the end of the year (in October or mid-November as far as the Parliament is concerned) and to reach a full adoption of a common text by March 2019 and a subsequent addition of this new European directive in the Official

Journal of the EU.

On marking requirements for wet wipes, there is an alignment between the Council and the Parliament that information provided to consumers on how to dispose of their single use plastic products should be as broad as possible and cover different criteria such as the

adverse impact on the environment of the product, that those should not be flushed down the toilets and that they may contain plastic. An Implementing Act regulation is expected to be

put forward by the Commission so to harmonise new legally required labelling in all EU

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Member States. Both co-legislators appear in favour of taking into consideration existing industry labelling in this context.

On extended producer responsibility and wet wipes, both co-legislators do not intend to remove this category of products from the scope of the directive. However, it seems that there

is recognition that the additional cost resulting an EPR scheme should not only be put on the producers but should be proportional across the supply chain.

As discussions are ongoing, the aforementioned positions remain to be confirmed and could still substantially change in the coming weeks.

At some point in the discussions in the European Parliament, consideration was given to open the possibility to Member States to ban products depending on the availability of plastic-

free alternatives, and beyond the scope of products initially proposed by the Commission for restrictions. This was considered a tangible threat to the Single Market but this was already thankfully removed from the negotiations table already.

Cosmetics Europe is in daily contact with EDANA and other industry partners on ongoing

outreach. SOURCE: Cosmetics Europe

Sticking it to Hair Damage: Delivery Duo

Protects and Repairs Inside and Out

Hair is an appendage of the epidermis formed by three main structures: the medulla, the cortex and the cuticle. It is composed mainly of keratin and a mixture of lipids located

between both the cortex and cuticle, and the cuticles themselves. Hair lipids have a similar function to the lipid barrier of skin; i.e., to maintain the integrity of the hair fiber.1

The hair exposome is the sum of multiple exposure factors affecting an individual’s hair throughout his or her life. These factors may include exposure to high temperatures due to hair dryers, flat irons, etc.; or to aggressive chemistries with high pH levels, such as hair

bleaches or dyes. Together with environmental assaults from sunlight and pollution, these factors damage the hair’s fibers.2 Such damage appears in the form of keratin degradation,3 loss of lipids, the oxidation of

pigments, etc., and translates as a loss in the mechanical properties, hydration, color and brightness of hair, along with split ends and brittleness.4 While some commercial hair

formulas help to mitigate these effects, their benefits are generally limited due to a low capacity to cover and penetrate the hair fiber. In the present study, a novel delivery system based on bicelles was explored for hair after

initially being developed for skin. As previously reported,5 bicelles are lipid discoidal nanostructures ~15-25 nm in size. They comprise long and short alkyl chain phospholipids

dispersed in an aqueous solution. The bicelles are further encapsulated in liposomesa in order to stabilize them. The result is a dual system of spherical vesicles, ~200-500 nm in diameter, containing the bicelles—which, in turn, can contain

various actives. According to previous work,5 this combination of lipid composition, small size and morphological versatility demonstrate high applicability to skin care. Bicelles are capable of

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passing through the intracellular spaces of the stratum corneum and, thanks to their nanostructure and composition, serve as good topical carriers.5 To transfer this skin-relevant system to hair, the external vesicles were redesigned to

electrostatically adhere to the hair cuticle and surround the hair fiber. This would then allow the internal bicelle disks to penetrate hair and deliver their payload—in the present

study, ingredients for heatb and pollution protectionc (see Figure 1). Further, the lipid contents of the system reinforce hair’s lipid structure, helping to prevent the weakening of cuticles and protect the cortex.

The studies described herein were conducted to evaluate the capacity of this dual system to protect hair and repair damage from daily assaults caused by heat styling, bleaching, pollution and solar radiation. To evaluate effects, samples of virgin, bleached and dyed hair,

20-25 cm in length, were treated (or not) with a base serum (0.1 g of serum/g of hair) comprising: water, glycerine, hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and citric acid,

with or without the dual system, then exposed these scenarios. Changes in hair characteristics were determined by various analytical techniques, described below.

Hair Adherence and Wash-off Resistance The capacity of the delivery system to adhere to hair fibers and resist wash-off was evaluated

first. A comparative study was carried out based on three-dimensional (3D) reconstructions of hair images taken at different depths using confocal microscopy. Virgin hair samples were incubated for 5 hr with three different variations of the described

serum containing fluorescent traces: a) a control leave-on serum; b) a leave-on serum containing 1% liposomes; and c) a leave-on serum containing 1% of the dual delivery system. After incubation, the hair samples were washed with neutral shampoo for 2 min, rinsed with

water for 1 min, dried, then analyzed. The fluorescent tracers utilized were lipophilic rhodamine and hydrophilic sodium fluorescein, which provided visual evidence of the serum’s

degree of hair adherence, coverage and wash-off resistance. Figure 2 shows images of the three hair samples studied; green represents sodium fluorescein and red, rhodamine. As shown in Figure 2a, a patchy distribution of fluorescent molecules was observed on the

surface of the hair fiber after treatment with the leave-on control serum. This indicates low adherence and high wash-off. In Figure 2b, higher fluorescence was observed, although large

empty spaces are still visible, indicating imperfect coverage by the liposomes and their partial removal by washing. In contrast, the hair sample treated with the dual delivery system (Figure 2c) showed total coverage of the fiber, also indicating resistance to wash-off.

Thermal Damage Heat protection: Heat exposure can severely damage hair, causing cuticles to open and,

subsequently, lose hydration. This loss in water content indicates hair damage and has many implications, such as the degradation of mechanical properties; previous research confirms

the critical role moisture plays in hair’s physical and cosmetic properties.6 As an example, tensile properties are related to the moisture level within the hair fiber, so diminution of the water content in hair fibers can result in the deterioration of hair elasticity and strength.7

Thus, to evaluate the protective and repair effects of the dual systemb, hair samples were analyzed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and thermal gravimetric analysis (TGA)

before and after treatment (or not) with the test serums and ironing. Prior to treatment, all samples were washed with a neutral shampoo for 2 min, rinsed with water for 1 min and blown dry. Exposure to heat consisted of ironing the hair tresses at 200°C for 5 sec, 3×.

The dual system of spherical vesicles containing bicelles loaded with actives showed previous efficacy in skin care. Here, it was redesigned electrostatically for hair. Untreated hair: Figure 3a and Figure 3b show images of the virgin hair samples before and

after heat treatment with the iron. As expected, Figure 3a shows no damage. However, after

ironing, damage to the cuticles is clearly visible. The TGA results also showed that after

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ironing, the water content of hair decreased from 10.52% to 6.04% (see Figure 4a, orange bar). Treated hair: Hair pretreated with the control leave-on serum (0.1 g of serum/g of hair) was

not protected against the effects of ironing. As shown in Figure 3c, hair fiber cuticles were

damaged similarly to the untreated, ironed hair shown in Figure 3b. The TGA result also was similar to that of untreated hair after ironing (see Figure 4a, green bar). However, the hair sample pretreated with the same leave-on serum containing 1% of the dual

systemb maintained the integrity of the cuticles (see Figure 3d); TGA results corroborated that hair did not lose hydration (see Figure 4a, purple bar). The results indicated that, compared with untreated hair, the dual system protected against

thermal aggression, minimizing cuticle damage and the loss of hydration. Damage repair: The ability of the dual systemb to repair hair after thermal damage incurred

also was examined. To this end, virgin hair samples were ironed and posttreated (or not, as the control) with the test serum containing 1% of the dual system (0.1 g of serum/g of hair)

for five days, once per day. Figure 3e and Figure 3fshow the hair samples after one and five applications of the leave-on serum. Results showed hair cuticle integrity was recovered during

the five-day treatment. TGA results concurred with the SEM results (see Figure 4b), indicating an increase in water content: from 6.04% after ironing, to 9.52% after one application and reaching a complete

10.54% recovery, compared with the previous virgin hair reading of 10.52%, after five applications. The authors concluded the heat protection and repair benefits of the system are likely related to its ability to adhere to and completely envelop the hair fiber, preventing

direct contact with damaging heat. Further, since the ingredient has the capacity to penetrate the hair fiber, it reinforces hair’s lipid content, which helps it to recover and maintain

integrity after thermal assault. Chemical Damage Hydration recovery: Next, the ability of the dual system to recover hair hydration lost to

bleaching was assessed. Water content was quantified in five different scenarios: virgin hair,

bleached hair, bleached hair treated with the placebo serum, and bleached hair treated either one or 10 times with the serum containing the dual system at 1%. Quantification was made by means of TGA.

The bleaching procedure consisted of incubating hair samples in a bleach solution (9% H2O2, pH 9) for 2 hr and 30 min in a shaking water bath at 40°C, followed by rinsing with water for 1 min. This procedure was repeated twice, then samples were washed with neutral shampoo

for 2 min and rinsed with water for 1 min. Bleached hair samples were separated into two groups: one for the placebo serum and

another for the test serum. Measurements were carried out the next day. As shown in Figure 5, the water content in virgin hair was ~11% (dark blue bar), whereas the bleaching procedure reduced it to 10.6% (pink bar; p = 0.0833).

Treatment with the placebo serum provided a slight increase in hydration in bleached hair, to 10.75% (green bar; p = 0.0833). On the other hand, a single treatment with the serum

containing the dual system fully recovered hair’s initial hydration levels to 11.25% (purple bar; p = 0.0495). After 10 daily applications of the active serum, hydration increased even

more, to ~11.5% (light blue bar; p = 0.0495), slightly surpassing the value in virgin hair. The authors propose that this recovery in hair hydration after bleaching is likely associated with the system’s ability to restore hair’s lipid structure, to keep the cuticles closed and thus

favor water retention. Recovering elasticity and strength: The mechanical properties of hair also are negatively

affected by bleaching. To explore the capacity of the dual system to recover hair’s physical properties, measurements of 10 fibers from two hair sample scenarios were taken. A dynamometer was used to determine the elasticity and 50% break stress level of each group.

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Hair fibers were then bleached and treated (or not) for five days with the leave-on serum incorporating the active at 1% were compared. As shown in Figure 6, after a five-day treatment with the 1% dual-system serum, hair’s

elasticity increased by 19% and break stress increased by 21%, compared with untreated hair. The cortex is the structure responsible for the mechanical properties of hair and its

integrity is reflected in elasticity and resistance to breakage. Treatment with the dual system appeared to reinforce damaged hair fibers and improve the recovery of its mechanical properties.

Pollution and UV Exposure Exposure to fumes, heavy metal particulates and UV rays also negatively affect hair structure, leading to loss of shine, movement/balance and hydration, along with changes in

color.1, 8 An additional assay was thus designed to test the ability of the dual system to protect against the effects of pollution and UV exposure. For these tests, carotenes were

incorporatedc into the bicelles for delivery into hair as they are rich in antioxidants and can counteract oxidizing processes caused by air pollution and UV exposure. Further, the electrostatic charges of the external vesicles in the system repel particulate matter and

prevent it from adhering to hair. To study the shielding effect of this system against pollution, two models were used: urban pollution and exhaust fumes.

The carotene system reduced color loss caused by UV exposure and washing, thanks to its antioxidative properties. Urban pollution: Hair tresses treated once with the leave-on serum containing 1% of the

carotene systemc or a placebo and were exposed to urban pollution in Barcelona. In preparation, tresses were washed with neutral shampoo for 2 min, rinsed with water for 1 min and divided into two groups for the placebo and carotene system treatments. After

treatment with 0.1 g of product/g of hair, the samples were placed on a terrace in a flat located in the Eixample neighborhood in Barcelona, where they remained for one week. Heavy

metal content in the samples was subsequently measured by mass spectroscopy. As shown in Figure 7, hair treated with the leave-on serum incorporating the carotene system showed less heavy metal content than in the placebo hair sample—from 27.4% to

96.9% less. These results indicated the carotene system repelled heavy metal particulates from adhering to hair. Exhaust fumes: Next, hair tresses were prepared and treated with placebo or carotene serum

as described above, but this time, samples were exposed directly to the exhaust fumes emitted by a motorcycle for 10 min each day, for a total of 10 days. Following exposure, the

heavy metal content was again measured by mass spectroscopy. Figure 8 revealed similar results. Hair treated with the carotene system showed less heavy metal content than hair treated with the placebo—from 33.4-85.5% less. This indicated the carotene system was

effective even under the extreme condition of direct exposure to fumes. UV exposure: The degradation of hair protein is one of the primary types of damage caused

by UV radiation. Tryptophan plays an important role in the internal structure of hair, and quantifying its levels can thus indicate the general state of hair proteins. This test evaluated the ability of the carotene systemc to protect tryptophan in hair from photo-degradation.

For this purpose, tryptophan levels were quantified in three hair sample groups: a) Hair treated with the leave-on serum (placebo) for five days;

b) Hair treated with the leave-on serum incorporating 1% of the carotene system for five days; and c) Hair treated with the leave-on serum incorporating 5% of the carotene system for five days.

All samples were prepared as described previously, then analyzed by spectrofluorometry for tryptophan baseline levels. Hair samples were then exposed for 67 hr to UV radiation (500 W/ m2) using a lampd, after which tryptophan levels were again measured by

spectrofluorometry. Figure 9 shows the results of tryptophan degradation after UV exposure. The placebo-treated

hair showed 35% degradation, whereas the hair treated with the carotene system at 1% and 5% showed 30% (p = 0.0189) and 5% (p = 0.0038) degradation, respectively. These results

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indicate the carotene system protected the tryptophan in hair samples. Further, this protection was progressive, depending on the concentration used. The authors attribute this protection to the ability of the system to effectively cover hair and supply lipids and

antioxidant molecules to its internal structures. Color loss: To evaluate the capacity of the carotene systemc to prevent color loss in dyed hair

exposed to UV and washing, two scenarios were tested: a) Hair samples (bleached + dyed) treated with the placebo serum (control); and b) Hair samples (bleached + dyed) treated with the same serum incorporating the carotene

system at 1%. The samples were exposed to artificial light (450 J/cm2)d, equivalent to 4 hr of sun exposure in June in Barcelona. After exposure, samples were washed with neutral shampoo for 2 min

and rinsed with water for 1 min. The hair was then divided into two groups: one treated with the placebo serum and the other, the same serum incorporating the carotene system at 1%.

The same cycle of light exposure and washing was then repeated daily for a total of 10 days; the quantification of color in the samples was evaluated by spectrofluorometry after one, five and 10 cycles. Results are shown in Figure 10.

Exposure to fumes, heavy metal particulates and UV rays degrades hair shine, movement, hydration and color.

The carotene system reduced color loss caused by UV exposure and washing. After one cycle of UV exposure/washing/rinsing/treatment/washing/rinsing/treatment, color loss was reduced by 21.7% in the samples treated with 1% carotene system. After five cycles, color loss

was reduced by 14.8%, and, at the end of 10 cycles, color loss was reduced by 16.6%. This demonstrated the ability the carotene system’s antioxidant properties to protect the dye pigments from oxidation and reduce overall color loss in hair.

Discussion and Conclusions Exposure to substances in the environment and beauty routines that include hair drying,

bleaching and straightening causes damage to hair fibers. These aggressions have become important concerns of hair exposome, and directly influence beauty and wellness. To prevent hair damage, one strategy is to use a protective product on daily basis. However,

most commercial products focus on providing substances such as oils or polymers to make hair shine; or peptides and other molecules to recover the keratin structure.

Although these strategies are valid and may be effective, they often produce short-term results for different reasons. One relates to the vehicle in which they are provided; if it cannot completely cover hair, the unprotected portions will continue to be damaged. Another reason

is the lack of effective hair penetration. If nourishing substances only reach the hair surface, its internal pigments and structures impacting mechanical properties will hardly be affected. Finally, most treatments focus on reinforcing hair protein content. However, the hair’s lipid

structure, responsible for smooth, closed cuticles and the integrity of hair fibers, is often ignored.

The unique structure of the described dual systema offers a new approach for hair protection and treatment. It is highly efficient in covering the external parts of hair due to its outer charged vesicle. In addition, it can effectively penetrate hair thanks to the internal bicelles,

which can deliver different molecules inside the hair shaft to treat different conditions. Finally, the lipid composition of the system reinforces hair’s lipid structure.

In the described studies, the authors have demonstrated the capacity of two forms of the system. The firstbprotects fibers against thermal damage and recovers hydration and mechanical properties after bleaching procedures. The secondc protects against the adherence

to hair of heavy metals and pollution, prevents the degradation of tryptophan by UV radiation and reduced color loss in dyed hair caused by UV exposure and daily washing. Taken together, this solution offers a promising tool for the integral treatment of hair. Further

research will analyze and reveal its full potential as a new platform for advanced hair care. References

1. JH Ji, TS Park et al, The ethnic differences of the damage of hair and integral hair lipid after UV radiation, Ann Dermatol (25) 54–60 (2013)

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2. S-Y Jeon and WS Lee, Comparison of hair shaft damage after UVA and UVB irradiation, J Cosmet Sci (59) 151-156 (2008)

3. K Sebetic, I Sjerobabski Masnec et al, UV damage of the hair, Coll Antropol (32) 163-165 (2008)

4. T Gao and A Bedell, Ultraviolet damage on natural gray hair and its photoprotection, J Cosmet Sci (52) 103-118 (2001)

5. researchgate.net/publication/265858339_Bicelles_New_Lipid_Nanosystems_for_Dermatological_Applications (Accessed Aug 28, 2018)

6. CR Robbins, Chemical and physical behavior of human hair, doi:10.1007/978-3-642-25611-0 (2012)

7. C Barba et al, Water content of hair and nails, Thermochim Acta 494, 136-140 (2009)

8. JM Marsh, R Iveson et al, Role of copper in photochemical damage to hair, Int J Cosmet Sci (36) 32-38 (2014)

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/methodsprocesses/Sticking-it-to-Hair-Damage-Delivery-Duo-Protects-and-Repairs-Inside-and-Out-494523421.html

Sustainability, science and selling By Natasha Spencer

As sustainable and environmentally-friendly product launches, marketing messages and board-level initiatives gather in pace, cosmetics and personal care brands are

innovating technology and packaging to stand out.

Reduce, reuse and recycle is a key strategy adopted by beauty names around the world. Energy, materials usage, packaging wastage and

formulation processes are all under review to see if more effcient and sustainable methods are possible.

Industry-wide cooperation

In May 2018, beauty giant, L’Oréal, and environmental consulting firm, Quantis, launched the Sustainable Packaging Initiative for Cosmetics (SPICE) for cosmetics producers and packagers.

Japanese cosmetics company, Kao, is promoting RecyCreation to replace throwing refill packs

away after use and instead, reusing these. After collecting these used refill packs from within the local communities and its residents, Kao is then planning to recycle these into polymers.

L’Oréal Australia, Avery Dennison and Wasteflex have collaborated to remove label waste from cosmetics packaging. The trio will take part in a recycling programme that pledges to provide zero waste to landfills.

In September 2018, German chemical and consumer goods brand, Henkel, revealed it was

ramping up its sustainability targets as it supports and strives towards a circular economy. Focusing on packaging in the personal, home and adhesive technologies markets, Henkel commits to making 100% of its packaging recyclable, reusable or compostable by 2025.

Within this period, the company also aims to use 35% recycled plastic in its Europe-based manufacturing efforts.

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Product innovations

Household consumer goods brand, Unilever, recently launched its Day2 aerosol laundry spray. The Rotterdam-headquartered company emphasises the sustainability story behind

the dry wash spray and labels it as “smarter laundry solution that gives clothes a second life and looks out for the planet whilst doing it”. It also promotes the less is more for the environment concept by emphasising how each bottle can save a full wash load and 60 litres

of water. Green aerosol technology developer, Salvalco, has received financial backing to further build

upon its research and development (R&D) efforts in aerosol valve technology and promote its range of eco-valves for the home care, personal care and food-based industries.

Wholesale beauty supply provider, Qosmedix, has confirmed growing demands from eco-conscious consumers, and as such, is developing their recycled and recyclable solutions.

In support of its environmentally-friendly initiatives, Henkel has also teamed up with

packaging provider, Colep, to create lightweight aerosol cans for its hairstyling brand, Syoss. Preparing for the future

As the global tube market is expected to hit $11.43 bn (€9.7 bn) by 2022, Adelphi Group is re-exploring and redesigning tubes to improve sustainable packaging as it aims to lower to

the footprint.

At Dow Chemical Company’s 30th Packaging Innovation awards, Procter & Gamble won the Diamond Award for its cutting-edge Air Assist product, which utilises breakthrough technology to produce sustainable and performance-led online and offine packaging.

The product’s packaging is made of 50% less plastic than a traditional molded bottle and the

item also has the ability to lower the number of truckload deliveries through sending it as roll stock.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-asia.com/Article/2018/09/20/Sustainability-science-and-selling

The big business of natural beauty ingredients By Deanna Utroske

Acquisitions and launches in the natural cosmetics and

personal care ingredients space have been coming along pretty steadily for the past year or so now—evidence that the natural beauty is no longer restricted to the fringes of

the industry. Here, Cosmetics Design looks at some of the deals and launches shaping the natural ingredient business.

True: for some consumers, influencers, and marketers, 'natural' has been conflated with safety and sustainability.

True: wildcrafted ingredients will never be available at an industrial scale.

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Nonetheless, naturals are in demand; and beauty makers, suppliers, and distributors are getting involved in the increasingly lucrative business of natural ingredients.

Inevitability The natural beauty movement has been gaining momentum for years. “With more consumers seeking out natural beauty products, demand for new or novel natural inputs is on the rise,” reported Cosmetics Design, following the 2017 Sustainable Cosmetics Summit in New York

City. It was at that same event when Ecovia Intelligence president Amarjit Sahota declared that

going forward, “green isn’t a trend, it’s mandatory.” And indeed, this environmental industrial mandate informs how natural ingredients are being sourced, produced, and circulated

globally. Originality

New natural companies are showing up in the beauty industry with some frequency.

Ingredient makers and brand owners like Amyris are using biotech to develop ingredients and supply the growing demand for naturals. The company, launched in 2003, makes ingredients using modified yeast for personal care, for vitamins, and for industrial applications.

The company’s consumer-facing skin care brand Biossance landed in Sephora stores early last year; and more recently, the brand launched in Canada.

Another new industrial-scale ingredient maker is Sustainable Botanicals International.

Conrad Plimpton is behind this new company and he explained SBI’s origin this way: “Our vision grew out of the realization that the availability and access to numerous specialty botanicals is signiicantly fragmented and compromised, from how they are both grown and harvested, to how they are processed and delivered to market.” Read more about SBI’s business growth strategy here on Cosmetics Design.

In the natural fragrance supply space, Palette Naturals (led by Miriam Vareldzis) has been making its mark on the industry for nearly a year now. Vareldzis’ business supplies accords and neat oils to cosmetics brands, contract fillers, and indie perfumers.

Financially

Established ingredient makers are buying up naturals. Sensient, for instance, recently acquired Mazza. “This acquisition is extremely signiicant for Sensient and our customers,” Sensient Technologies CEO Paul Manning remarked in July. “…Mazza’s revolutionary technology will allow us to conduct extraction from natural plant sources using environmentally friendly extraction methods – including water only extraction – instead of traditional chemical solvents.” And this summer’s deal between Firmenich and Nelixia is another good example of how legacy suppliers and manufacturers are buying and partnering with smaller natural ingredient

producers. Nelixia’s essential oil business now augments the fragrance maker’s portfolio of Natural Together partners, helping Firmenich source over 150 natural species from over 40 countries.

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Article/2018/09/24/The-big-business-of-natural-beauty-ingredients

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Your Hair on Acid: The Influence of Carboxylic

Acids

My interest in the effects of carboxylic acids on hair began many years ago, after serendipitously generating data that suggested how soaking tresses in a 5% citric acid

solution lowered hair’s water content (see Figure 1). Initially, this may seem a totally undesirable outcome, as consumers worry greatly about hair drying out” and subsequently demand products that “moisturize” and “hydrate.” Yet, earlier articles in this column have

addressed how sensorial and mechanical properties of hair are greatly compromised by increased water content1, 2—and there is now a general consensus among hair scientists that

water is detrimental to hair properties and aesthetics. Therefore, the ability to lower hair’s moisture content is intriguing. Further work suggested nothing unique about citric acid; solutions of all carboxylic acids

tested, e.g., lactic, succinic, adipic, glycolic, etc., showed similar effects, albeit to differing extents. No effects were observed for treatments with mineral acids; for instance, hydrochloric acid.

Further evidence for the interesting effect of these acids comes from differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) experiments, wherein hair soaked in such solutions showed a marked

increase in protein denaturation temperature—in some instances by up to 10°C. In recent years, the effects of carboxylic acids on hair are becoming better recognized and products touting their benefits are finding their way onto shelves. In some instances, these

materials are included at low, presumably ineffectual levels to help tell a marketing story; at the same time, products containing higher levels exist. Glyoxylic acid treatments are now being pushed as an alternative to Brazilian Keratin products,3 while a disruptive product

claiming to induce new cross-links in the hair is based on maleic acid. This article explores the efficacy of these materials and presents possible explanations for

their effectiveness. Let Us Not Forget Historical Literature The ability for to lower the water content of hair and wool is well-documented in scientific

literature.4 This mechanism is believed to involve simple steric effects, wherein molecules penetrate hair and obstruct sites where water would otherwise adsorb. Scrutiny of the

historical scientific literature shows how similar effects relating to carboxylic acid solutions and hair are not new, since papers on the subject date back to the 1950s.5, 6 The pH of these solutions is seemingly prohibitively low for use in any hair care treatment

(~1.7-1.9); however, adjustment to more reasonable levels results in the reduction of both water-retarding and DSC effects. Specifically, efficacy appeared to be lost when the pH was raised through the pKa of the acid (generally around 3.8). This led us to an interest in

phenols, which are acidic in nature but possess a much higher pKa (generally around 9.5). Reassuringly, soaking hair in a selection of phenolic solutions, e.g., phenol, resorcinol and

pyrogallol, resulted in similarly altered adsorption isotherms. Once again, historical papers were later discovered—this time from the 1960s—which had beaten us to this finding.7 Mechanistic Considerations

Unquestionably, hair treated by these acid (and phenol) solutions feels quite different. To use consumer expressions, hair tresses feel thicker, fuller and more voluminous, and differences

in hair properties can be quantified that possibly shed light on the reason for these perceptions. Figure 2 shows how soaking hair in a 5% citric acid solution raises the cross-sectional area

of fibers by approximately 150 µm2; a 5% resorcinol solution causes an approximate 300 µm2 change. Based on an average-sized 70 µm hair fiber (cross sectional area of

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3,820 µm2), these results represent dimension increases of around 4% and 8%, respectively—which would be greater still for finer hair. In terms of an explanation, it appears reasonable to believe that incursion and retention of materials inside the hair must lead to some degree of

fiber expansion. In recent years, the effects of carboxylic acids on hair are becoming better recognized and

products touting their benefits are finding their way onto shelves. As discussed in previous articles, water is a plasticizer of hair—therefore, the ability to lower the moisture content should result in higher mechanical properties. Figure 3 shows the

Young’s modulus for the same hair treated with 5% citric acid and resorcinol solutions, and illustrates the expected increase in this parameter. Increased fiber stiffness and higher dimensions are both thought to be key components/contributors to hair volume and

body,8 so we can rationalize the aforementioned observations in terms of these hitherto unobtainable property changes.

Accordingly, a coherent theory exists wherein carboxylic acids and phenols penetrate into fibers to occlude water adsorption sites by steric means. Further to this point, larger molecules were generally observed to produce more sizable effects, although solubility clearly

suffers with increasing molecular weight. A higher denaturing temperature would also be in line with depleted water content. Moreover, these effects are totally reversible, —with changes

being lost after dialysis. This again implies no chemical reactivity and effects are believed to be solely adsorption-related. Another more recent article also professes this mechanism.9 Alternate Explanations

While it is clear that the properties of hair are changed, there may be alternative explanations for the cause. The effect of pH on the protein denaturation temperature of hair has been documented relatively recently by Istrate and coworkers.10 Figure 4 shows TRI’s own

comparable results for such a study and demonstrates how pH itself has a considerable effect on the denaturing temperature. Therefore, a moisture mitigation explanation is not required

to explain the soaring denaturing temperature that arises from an acid soak. Instead, this occurrence can be simply explained as an artifact of lower pH conditions. Delving into still-older scientific literature reveals evidence for the remarkably strong affinity

of acids for hair.11, 12Titration curves illustrate a steep increase in acid uptake with decreasing pH; such that, at a pH of around 1.5, approximately 0.8 millimoles of acid can be adsorbed

per gram of hair. Therefore, in theory, soaking in a citric acid solution (RMM = 192.2 g/mol) would result in the uptake of approximately 0.15 g per 1 gram of hair—in short, 15% by weight.

This surprisingly high value has implications for our adsorption experiments. Dynamic Vapor Sorption (DVS) is a gravimetric adsorption approach wherein the water content of hair is monitored in terms of its weight as a function of the relative humidity.1 The degree of

adsorption, sometimes termed the regain, is expressed as a percentage based on the initial weight of the sample. However, the initial weight of our treated hair sample now seemingly

does not consist of 100% hair; rather, in theory, it would consist of only 85% hair and 15% adsorbed acid. Accordingly, adsorption values are calculated based on an overly high weight of hair, which subsequently manifests as an apparent decrease in regain. Thus, seemingly

altered isotherms could be an artifact of this convoluted sample weight. Continuing with this line of thought, we obtain a potential explanation for why larger

molecules apparently produce greater DVS efficacy. That is, conversion from moles to grams involves multiplying by the molecular weight. By means of example, 0.8 millimoles of adsorbed glycolic acid (a rather small acid; RMM = 76 g/mol) corresponds to only 0.06 g of

acid per 1 gram of hair (i.e., 6% by weight). In short, larger molecules with higher molecular mass translate into higher weight percentages for an equivalent molar concentration. This

idea also provides an explanation for lack of activity when soaking in hydrochloric acid (mineral acids): HCl is a gas and would volatilize. The steepness of the titration curves similarly provides an explanation for decreased activity when raising the pH to levels more

acceptable for product formulation.

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Penetration Irrespective of the mechanism, and from a product development standpoint, the properties of treated hair are clearly altered in intriguing, and possibly hitherto unobtainable, ways. Yet

there is seemingly a hindrance in terms of the time needed to induce such effects. Figure 5 shows DVS water reduction results for hair samples treated with a 5% citric acid solution

as a function of soak time at two different temperatures. Results suggest that surprisingly prolonged contact times are necessary for this molecule to diffuse completely into hair and produce its full effect.

The idea of changing hair properties from the inside provokes intriguing possibilities. It is exciting to recognize a whole new category of hair treatment products might be out there, still waiting to be developed.

Water readily diffuses into hair; this possibly has led to a thought process within our industry that anything dissolved or dispersed in an aqueous base will go along for the ride. Figure

5 refutes that belief. A more realistic scenario might be to think of a hair fiber as a micro chromatography column. In liquid chromatography, the solvent readily traverses the column, while dissolved materials

move at differing rates based on their size and interaction with the column material. By analogy, in hair, solutes must permeate through the fiber’s complex structure while all the

time under the influence of chemical interactions associated with protein constituents. By this rationale, incursion of materials into hair no longer appears a trivial occurrence. Summary

There appears to be ample evidence to show that the properties of hair can be altered in interesting ways by treatment with carboxylic acids—yet the mechanism is not yet clear. Acids have an affinity for hair, and a suggestion has been made that adsorbed species can

reduce water uptake by binding/blocking sites in which water would otherwise adsorb. Altered adsorption isotherms, increased mechanical properties and elevated denaturing

temperatures may all be taken as evidence for this positioning. Commercial products purporting to prolong style longevity are similarly in line with this reasoning. Yet, a simpler explanation may exist that does not require the manipulation of water content.

Here, considerable internal deposition “plumps up” hair dimensions and impacts mechanical properties. DVS results become the consequence of an experimental weighing artifact, while

DSC findings relate simply to underlying pH solution effects. Further, relating to DSC denaturation results, it is well-recognized that this transition temperature decreases as a consequence of certain insults that compromise, or “damage,” the

hair structure. Therefore, to some, the ability for an ingredient or product to raise this value (no matter how slight) is considered an indication of “repair.” Yet, as shown herein, and as recently noted by Popescu and Gummer,13 such results could easily be a pH artifact.

Nonetheless, the idea of changing hair properties from the inside provokes intriguing possibilities. Conventional daily-use products, i.e., shampoos, conditioners and styling

products, seemingly act solely on the hair surface—however, certain hair properties are dictated by the internal cortical structure, and their manipulation therefore necessitates the penetration of materials deep into the hair. Results shown herein suggest how even relatively

small acids penetrate rather slowly, which suggests conventional products, whose use involves short residence times on hair, might not be the best delivery vehicles. Still, it is

exciting to recognize that a whole new category of hair treatment products might be out there, still waiting to be developed. Acknowledgements: Figure 4 was generated by Natasha Parikh, a former TRI Staff Scientist. References

1. TA Evans, Measuring the water content of hair, Cosm & Toil 129(2) 64-69 (2014)

2. TA Evans, New ideas and thoughts on hair breakage, Cosm & Toil 132(8) 46-53 (2017) 3. C Boga et al, Formaldehyde replacement with glyoxylic acid in semi-permanent

straightening: A new and multidisciplinary investigation, Intl J Cos Sci 36 459-470

(2014)

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4. IC Watt and JD Leader, Effect of chemical modifications on keratin + water adsorption isotherm, Trans Farad Soc 60 1335-1343 (1964)

5. CH Nicholls and JB Speakman, The adsorption of water by wool. Part IV—The influence of combined acid on the affinity of wool for water, J Tex Inst 45 T267-271 (1954)

6. AF Cacella and HJ White, Interaction of acid-treated wool and silk with water vapor and

water, Textile Res J 25 506-516 (1955) 7. MM Breuer, Binding of phenols to hair, parts I, II and III, J Phys Chem 68 2067-2084

(1964) 8. TA Evans, Body talk: Defining volume, a technical dissertation on hair body and

volume, Cosm & Toil 133(6) 48-55 (2018) 9. T Itou, M Nojiri, Y Ootsuka and K Nakamura, Study of the interaction between hair

protein and organic acids that improves hair-set durability by near-infrared

spectroscopy, J Cos Sci 57 139-151 (2006) 10. D Istrate, C Popescu, M Er-Rafik and M Moller, The Effect of pH on the thermal

stability of fibrous hard alpha-keratins, Polymer Degradation and Stability98 542-549 (2013)

11. ER Theis and MM Lams, The protein-formaldehyde reaction: II. Wool, J Biol Chem 154 99-103 (1944)

12. MM Breuer and DM Pritchard, The behavior of hair at low pH values, J Soc Sci 18

643-650 (1967) 13. C Popescu and C Gummer, DSC of human hair: A tool for claim support or

incorrect data analysis? Intl J Cos Sci 38(5) 433-439 (2016)

ARTICLE: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/efficacyclaims/Your-Hair-on-Acid-The-Influence-of-Carboxylic-Acids-494640401.html