07.tunez.recorrido vii ing · scholars and ascetics felt for such insti-tutions facilitated the...

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The Ribat, Monastir.

ITINERARY VII

The Ribat TownsMourad Rammah

VII.1 MONASTIRVII.1.a The RibatVII.1.b Sidi al-Ghedamsi Ribat (option)

VII.2 LEMTAVII.2.a The Ribat (option)

VII.3 SOUSSEVII.3.a The Ribat VII.3.b The Great MosqueVII.3.c Al-Zaqqaq MadrasaVII.3.d Qubba bin al-Qhawi VII.3.e Sidi ‘Ali ‘Ammar MosqueVII.3.f Buftata MosqueVII.3.g The Kasbah and the Ramparts

itary and religious purpose were reflectedin their robust and austere architecture,characterised by the use of stone and vaultsmade of rubble and the banishment ofwood coverings and light structures. Thistype of architecture spread across thewhole of the Tunisian Sahel, and Sousse andMonastir became the two ribat-towns parexcellence.Whilst all making reference to the sameschool of architecture, they neverthelesseach underwent a slightly different evolu-tion. Sousse became in the 3rd/9th centurythe headquarters of the Aghlabid fleet andthe most important naval military base,which was involved in the Conquest of Sici-ly in 211/827, as well as being the crucibleof Mediterranean commerce, all withoutlosing its appeal to Islamic scholars, someof whom preferred it to all other bastionsof Islam.Monastir’s evolution took a more spiritu-al turn, and became, during the MiddleAges, a place of pilgrimage during reli-gious festivals, and there are still manySahelians, especially the Mahdians, whowish to bury their dead in its blessed earth.In fact, the evolution of Sousse and Mona-stir complemented each other perfectly,incarnating the whole dialectic of the spir-it of the ribat.Situated at the far end of the headland,the antique Ruspina derives its namefrom the Punic “Rus Penna”, which intoLatin translates as Caput Anguli, a namejustified by the very marked cornerthat forms the coastline on this site.This headland was an ideal place fromwhich to defend the coastline, thusexplaining the Abbasid GovernorHarthama Ibn A‘yun’s choice, in178/795, of it as a site on which tobuild his model ribat, a type importedfrom the East. The passion Ifr iqiyan

The Ribat, interiorcourtyard, Lemta.

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ITINERARY VII The Ribat Towns

Monastir

The assaults of the Byzantine fleet along thecoast following the Muslim Conquestforced the Ifriqiyans to build a continuousline of defence consisting of fortressescalled ribats. They rose along the coastlinefrom Tangier to Alexandria and communi-cated via the use of fires lit up at the top ofthe towers. The ribats served as a refuge forthe inhabitants of the surrounding coun-tryside and were lived in by warriormonks. The prolonged stays and visits ofthe most illustrious Ifriqiyan scholars,jurisconsults and ascetics reinforced thespiritual prestige of these buildings, trans-forming them into veritable monastery-fortresses and centres of learning thattransmitted Arab-Muslim culture along thenorth coast of North Africa. The proximi-ty of Sousse and Monastir to Kairouan, aswell as their strategic positions as frontlinewatch towers defending the capital, meantthat they possessed a military role of thefirst order. Their ribats gained an utterlyunique renown and became the core forfuture urban developments. Their dual mil-

scholars and ascetics felt for such insti-tutions facilitated the population of thisnew qsar and, during the 2nd–3rd/firsthalf of the 9th century, several r ibatswere built in Monastir, such as the Ibnal-Ja‘ad Ribat, and the Dhuayib Ribatin 239/854. Overtaken first by Sousse,which became the Aghlabid naval base,and then by Mahdia which became theFatimid Capital, Monastir had to con-tent itself, throughout the MiddleAges, with its essentially spiritual role,becoming a place of pilgrimage, a ribat,and one of the bastions of orthodoxy toface the Shi‘ite challenge. Neverthe-less, the town continued to grow, andwas described by al-Bakri, writing inthe middle of the 5th/11th century, asfollows: “ … it is a vast fortress, extreme-ly high, enclosing a considerably large sub-urb. At the heart of this suburb, one sees asecond, very large fortress, full of lodgings,mosques and castles with several floor lev-els. In this secure and powerful place onediscovers a great number of baths. Not longago, the inhabitants of Kairouan donatedlarge amounts of money and charity to it.Close to al-Monastir is a huge salt marshthat provides ships with cargoes of saltintended for expor t to other countr ies.Al-Monastir has, within its area, fivemahris, built very solidly, which are inhab-ited by pious people”. Monastir does notseem to have suffered from the Hilalianinvasions in the same way that Kairouandid, and al-Idrissi reports that, duringthe middle of the 6th/12th century,“Mahdia had neither gardens nor orchards.Neither did it have palm trees. Fruits arebrought in from Monastir … Monastir”, hecontinues, “consists of three for tressesgrouped together, full of devout inhabi-tants. The Arabs (Hilalians) do not causedamage to their orchards, nor to their plan-

tations. The inhabitants of Mahdia usesmall boats to transpor t their dead toMonastir where they are buried”. The exo-dus of Muslims from Sicily followingthe Norman Conquest, followed by theexodus of the Kairouanese, contributedto the growing urbanisation of thetown. It seems that even when Mahdiawas seized by the Normans in542/1148, Monastir managed toescape this fate and served as a refugefor the Mahdians. Without doubt, it isfrom this time onwards that one candate Monastir’s extension and the birthof one of its suburbs. The decline ofKairouan followed by that of Mahdia,during the Hafsid era, led to the deca-dence of Monastir, which folded backonto itself and continued to grow stag-nant. Leo the Afr ican, who visitedMonastir at the star t of the 10th/16th

century, describes it thus: “It is sur-rounded by forts and high walls. The hous-es within it have also been built with anequal amount of care. One thing is for cer-tain and that is that the inhabitants are

Ruins of the Ribat ofSidi al-Ghedamsi,Monastir.

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Monastir

poor … Within Monastir, a great numberof proper ties are planted with fruit treessuch as apricot trees, fig trees, apple trees,pomegranate trees and an infinite numberof olive trees. But the sovereign cripples thetown with taxes”. In fact, Monastir wouldend up by revolting against the HafsidSultan Mulay Hassan, who became anally of the Spanish. Between 945/1539and 955/1549, the town was sackedseveral times by the naval fleets ofCharles Quint, lead by André Doria. Inthe 10th–11th/end of 16th century, itwas conquered by the Turks. In theMuradite era, during struggles betweenthe two Murad brothers, Monastirsided with Mohamed, who took refugethere in 1091/1680. Throughout themodern era, Monastir regained itsstrength, becoming a centre for thetransmission of Sufism and asceticism.

The Ribat, facadelooking over thecourtyard, Monastir.

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Monastir

VII.1 MONASTIR

Take the coastal route towards Sousse.

VII.1.a The Ribat

This monument is situated on the coast road.Entrance fee. Opening times: 08.3–17.30 from16th September–31thMarch, and from 08.00–19.00 the rest of the year. Closed Mondays. On-site parking. Toilets available.

The ribat was built in 178/795–179/796 bythe Abbasid General Harthama Ibn A‘yun,and underwent various enlargementsthroughout the ages. Originally, in its firststage of construction, the ribat was com-posed of a rectangular enclosure with tow-ers in each corner. In the south-east corner

rose a high cylindrical minaret that madereference to Mesopotamian influences.Inside, the courtyard was surrounded byporticoes onto the which the rooms lookedout. The prayer hall, on the first floor, wascomposed of two bays and seven naves, theaxial nave being larger than the others. Thisarchitectural layout, applied for the firsttime to a prayer room, would become thenorm for all Ifriqiyan mosques. The architectural plan of Harthama’s ribatwould serve as the model for the mainIfriqiyan ribats built along the coast in the3rd/9th century. The north wing of thisribat, which must have had an area of 1,300sq. m., was completely modified, and themonument underwent several enlarge-ments of which four major stages can bemarked out.In the first stage, a pavilion, composed ofa porch flanked by two columns support-ing a semi-circular horseshoe arch, wasadded to the primitive entrance, separat-ed by a small courtyard. This porch,recalling the one belonging to the GreatMosque of Mahdia (with hindsight), leadsonto rooms covered in barrel vaults. Onthe first floor one found the prayer roomcomposed of seven naves rhythmicallydivided by two bays and covered, with theexception of the central nave, by barrelvaults; the southern half of the mediannave was covered by a surbased segment-ed sphere without squinches. Everythingpoints to there once being a prayer roomhere whose mihrab was sealed up. Its archi-tectural design evokes that of the earlyribat which is situated along from it. Thispavilion dates, according to a inscriptionin the Louvre, from the middle of the4th/10th century; this succinct inscriptionrefers to works carried out by Abu al-Qas-sim al-Tammar in 355/966, which seemsto apply to this wing of the ribat. This

pavilion, which would later serve as a ribatfor women, is mentioned by al-Bakri inthe middle of the 5th/11th century. Thisfunction explains why it was necessary toprovide the ribat with a new gate, to sep-arate the passage used by women fromthat of men. The present angled entranceof the ribat seems to date from this time.The decoration featured above its arch-way consists of five flat niches, sur-mounted by horseshoe arches topped bya floral frieze, an ornamental design char-acteristic of the Fatimid-Zirid style; onealso finds it on the facade of the porch ofthe Great Mosque of Mahdia, on the east-facing facade of the Mosque of Sfax, andon the facade of the Sidi ‘Ali ‘AmmarMosque.The second phase of construction consistedof extending the north and east sides thatdated from the Aghlabid era, an era that sawthe consolidation of the monument via thebuilding of square towers. Works under-taken in 827/1424, as indicated by a Hafsidcommemorative plaque in naskhi scriptabove the door of the angled entrance,

The Ribat, an upstairsroom, Monastir.

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Monastir

Standing next to these latter exhibits arebronze objects, originating mostly from theZirid and Fatimid eras, amongst which onecan pick out a rare bronze chandelier fromthe Hafsid era, and Aghlabid and Fatimidceramic plates.

VII.1.b Sidi al-Ghedamsi Ribat(option)

One reaches the monument via the route ofthe marina. During 2001 the site was in theprocess of excavation. Situated on an island which is now re-attached to terra ferma, the ribat underwentvarious excavations that revealed theessence of the site, bringing to light its ini-tial plan as well as the different phases ofits extension. This island is named after asaint, originally from Ghdamas, who livedduring the 4th/10th century, and who wasburied on this site. The ribat, in fact, waserected in 257/871, by a wealthyKairouanese, Ibn al-Ja‘ad. Its constructionreflects strategic considerations anddemonstrates the necessity of securingmore effective communications betweenthe ribats of the Monastir headland,through building a watchtower on theisland situated at the tip of the headland.The monument was built on the remainsof Roman villas and mosaics. It is a square-plan construction, each side measuring22.5 m. in length. Flanked by four circu-lar towers at each corner, the centres ofthe two north and south walls are consol-idated by two square towers used as cis-terns, recuperating water from the ter-races. One can clearly see the hallway andground-floor rooms through the entranceon the eastern side. It seems that this ribatconsisted of only one floor level, like theribat of Lamta.

increased the area of the fortress to 4,200sq. m. The third stage of the construction datesunquestionably from the era of IbrahimSharif Pasha in 1115/1704. It encom-passes modifications undertaken on spe-cific areas, such as the rebuilding of theeast wing; turning the ground floor ofthe women’s ribat into a prayer hall;adding polygonal towers to the north-west and south-east corners, as well asthe circular tower of the north-east cor-ner, all of which related to an armamentsinitiative.The fourth stage, initiated by HammudaPasha (1195/1781–1228/1813) incor-porated the building of a fortress and thedecision of transferring students to theZawiya of Sidi Dhuib. Similarly, HusaynBey II restored and consolidated the ribatin 1250/1835. The bastions built at thenorth-east and south-east corners mustdate from this time. The lack of homo-geneity in the appearance of the exter-nal walls of the fortress is due to themultiple consolidations staggered acrossthe 11th/17th century and 13th/19th cen-tury.Elsewhere, the prayer hall of the early ribathas housed a small museum of Islamic artssince 1959, whose exhibits include:— a collection of funerary steles fromMonastir that date from the 5th/11th centu-ry to the 9th/15th century, and whoseinscriptions range from flowery kufic tonaskhi.— A collection of pieces of Egyptian tex-tile, mainly Abbassid and Fatimid.— Several Kairouanese works of book-binding dating from the 4th/10th and 5th/11th

centuries.— Pages from Kairouanese and Egyptiancopies of the Qur‘an and manuscripts datingfrom the 4th/10th to the 12th/18th centuries.

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Monastir

The Bourguiba Mausoleum is an example ofcontemporary, elaborately decorated, Islamicart.

VII.2 LEMTA

The town is situated half-way between KsarHellal and Monastir.

Originally a Libyc-Punic agglomeration,Leptimus is mentioned for the first time inthe 4th century BC Allied to Rome. Duringthe third Punic War, in 146 BC, it benefit-ed from the status of a “liberated town” fol-lowing the defeat of Carthage. Elevated tocolonial status by Trajan, it became theprincipal town of the regional area of Lepti-minensis. After the Byzantine Conquest, itbecame the home base of the Byzantiummilitary command. Its renaissance datesfrom the Aghlabid period: from a simpleribat that served as a refuge to fishermen,Lemta became one of the most importantports of Ifriqiya. Nevertheless, it was sup-planted by Mahdia in the 3rd–4th/beginningof 10th century. Around Lemta there is a saltmarsh that, according to al-Bakri, producedfine-quality salt.

VII.2.a The Ribat (option)

Entrance fee. In order to visit the ribat, you mustfirst go to the municipal offices. Opening times: weekdays from 08.30–13.00 and14.00–17.45, Fridays and Saturdays from08.30–13.00. Parking available in the smallsquare.

It was built by the Aghlabid Prince AbuIbrahim Ahmad, in 245/860, and is the

prototype ribat for ribats with only onefloor level. As opposed to Sousse andMonastir, which were important townswhose populations needed spaciousfortresses in which to take refuge in caseof an enemy attack, Lemta it seems was,during the 2nd–3rd/beginning of 9th centu-ry, a sparsely populated hamlet, whichexplains the difference between it and theribats of Sousse and Monastir, the lattertwo being more sophisticated and endowedwith more crucial defence systems.Indeed, the ribat of Lemta did not possessa watchtower but was flanked at each of itsfour corners by a tower. Its prayer hall ison the ground floor, on the south side. Itsvery simple entrance is made up of a squatsemi-circular arch which constitutes directaccess.

VII.3 SOUSSE

Take the coastal route again. until you reachSousse.

Founded in the 2nd century BC by thePhoenicians to serve as a base for theirtrading ships in the western Mediter-ranean, Sousse experienced a remarkableboom during the Roman era, distinguish-ing itself as one of Africa’s main cities.Nothing significant occurred during theVandal period or the Byzantine period, andthis also applied to the first Muslim peri-od. Facing the supremacy of the Byzantinenavy in the western Mediterranean as wellas the anarchy that dominated Ifriqiyathroughout the 2nd/8th century, the Mus-lims decided to retreat inland into thecountry, while Sousse, which was com-posed of numerous hamlets, lived underthe protection of its ribat, a sort of fortress

191

RECORRIDO VII The Ribat Towns

Lemta

Nevertheless, it was able to pick itself upagain due to its ideal location in terms ofthe economic geography of Ifriqiya.Throughout its history, and depending onpolitical fluctuations, Sousse sometimesdeveloped in direct relation to inlandareas, whilst at other times it developedcompletely separately from it, but it alwayscounterbalanced itself with maritime activ-ities.The end of the 4th/10th century and thebeginning of the 5th/11th were notably peri-ods of great urban growth. However, thisprosperity was abruptly halted by the arrivalof the Hilalians who ransacked the country.Sousse’s fate slipped through the hands ofJebara Ibn Kamel, an Arab Chief allied tothe Zirids. Cut-off from the rest of thecountry, it retreated back into itself, sur-viving only thanks to its maritime commer-cial trading links with the other ports of theMediterranean. Like many coastal towns, itwas annexed by the Normans of Sicily anddwelled under their domination for 15years, until the arrival of the Almohads in555/1160.During 7th/13th century, the town benefit-ed from the great attention paid to it by theHafsids, who endowed the town with sev-eral monuments. But when, in the 10th/16th

century, the Sultan Mulay Hassan called onthe Spanish to help him reclaim his throne,Sousse rose up against the invaders andendured severe damage following two puni-tive expeditions.The Turks, in restoring peace to the coun-try, reclaimed the town. The 11th/17th cen-tury was marked by two events. From with-in, Sousse was deeply shaken by internalstruggles that afflicted first the brothersMohamed and ‘Ali Bey from 1085/1675 to1097/1686, then Murad III and his cousinRamdan who had taken refuge in Sousseonly to be persecuted and decapitated there

that served as a watchtower and refuge forits inhabitants. During the middle of the2nd–3rd/beginning of 9th century, the Agh-labids succeeded in pacifying the countryand becoming the new masters of the sea.They chose Sousse as their naval base andZiyadat Allah I endowed it with a kasbah in205/821 that encompassed the ribat andthe naval dockyard where a military garri-son were stationed; the whole compoundwas enclosed by a rampart. It was thus thatSousse was used as the departure point forthe Conquest of Sicily in 211/827, reviv-ing the conflict between the Aghlabids andthe Byzantines, resulting in a series ofclashes that have been well documented inhistorical sources. The threat of dangerincited the Aghlabid princes to reinforcethe defensive infrastructure of their base atwhich the most vicious assaults wereaimed.A new kasbah was built by Abu ‘Abbas in229/844; then, 15 years later, Abu IbrahimAhmed encircled the town with a freestoneenclosure. Sousse then benefited from atime of relative peace, which favoured itsgrowth and development. From being pure-ly a military base, it rose to being one of thelargest towns in Ifriqiya, serving Kairouanas the main maritime outlet.Crafts were developed, particularly theweaving of fine materials, which was great-ly admired abroad. The problem of sup-plying the town with drinking water wasresolved through the rebuilding of thesofra, an ancient Roman cistern that hadbeen turned into a prison during the Agh-labid period. A canal brings the waterfrom the surrounding area to inside thetown walls. The foundation of Mahdia in304/917 by the Fatimid Caliph al-Mahdi,relegated Sousse to second place; Soussesuffered greatly under the siege imposedby the Kharijite Abu Yazid in 333/945.

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Sousse

Plan of theRibat of Sousse.

in 1110/1699. In the outside world, Soussetook part, as did most coastal towns, in pri-vateering activities, rampant throughout theMediterranean, and because of this wasoften the object of reprisals by EuropeanStates, most notably France and Venice. Inthe 12th/18th century, during the rebellionof ‘Ali Pasha in 1140/1728, Sousse sidedwith Husayn Ibn ‘Ali’s camp and was stageto various battles, until the final victory waswon by the Husaynites in 1170/1757. Inrecognition of this, the Bey Mohamedaccorded Sousse various rights and privi-leges. On the other hand, in the Revolt leadby ‘Ali Ibn Ghdhahum during 13th/19th cen-tury, Sousse sided with the rebels. After thisinsurrection failed, General Ahmed Zarruk,sent by the bey, exercised a pitiful regime ofrepression over Sousse, whose importancesuffered a continuous decline until thedebarkation of the French troops in Sep-tember 1881. By that time, it had beenreduced to a town of merely 8,000 inhabi-tants.

VII.3.a The Ribat

Leave your vehicle at the foot of the ramparts, onavenue Mhamed Ali, and walk about 100 m., viathe “place des Martyrs”.Entrance fee. Opening times: 08.30–17.30 from16th September until 31th March, and 08.00–19.00 the rest of the year. Parking available inthe square.

The ribat faces the Great Mosque. Thismonastery-fortress was no doubt foundedtowards the end of the 1st/beginning ofthe 8th century, but was completely rebuiltby Ziyadat Allah I at the heart of the GreatFortress, al-Qasr al-Kabir, which he haderected in 205/821. A garrison composedof about 50 warrior monks, who had

avowed themselves to the jihad, livedthere permanently. This in particular, gavethe army base a dual character, one thatwas both military and religious, that wasmanifested through the austerity of thebuilding, the crampedness of the roomsand the choice of layout. The ribat, squarein shape measuring 36 m. on each side,

The Ribat, cornertower, Sousse.

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Sousse

entrances of the Abbasid palaces of Ukhay-dir and Atshan, palaces that also heavilyinfluenced the exterior architecture ofSousse’s ribat. In all other respects, theribat is a reproduction of the original planof the Monastir Ribat founded byHarthama, the author of several similarmilitary construction works found on theeastern front.The ribat’s porch is surmounted by adefence feature consisting of a group ofmachicolations made of parallel stoneopenings or slits. Its pole-axes are sur-mounted by a domed kiosk on squinches,made of freestone, constituting the oldestspecimen of its kind known to us. Thisallows for the study of the evolution ofthis prototype dome, which originated inthe East, was adopted in Ifriqiya in the2nd/8th century, and reached its maturityas the dome of the mihrab of the GreatMosque of Kairouan (3rd/9th century).The dome of the Ribat of Sousse consti-tutes an intermediary stage in its evolu-tion, as it demonstrates by the directtransformation from octagon to circularskullcap. From the porch, one enters asquare hallway covered by a well-bondedgroin vault, appearing to confirm the sur-vival of certain Byzantine and Roman tra-ditions. The central courtyard is sur-rounded by four galleries, covered by aseries of barrel vaults, whose arcades reston freestone pillars. The north and eastwings, rebuilt in 1134/1722, are coveredby groin vaults. The ground floor is com-posed of 33 cramped rooms, covered bybarrel vaults made of rubble. One reach-es the first floor via a staircase that leadsonto a passage used by rooms on three ofthe sides; the fourth side houses theprayer hall. The latter consists of 11 navesand two bays. The wall of the qibla, thesame wall as that of the rampart enclo-

built in stone, has been fitted out with around tower in each corner except for thesouth-eastern one, where, instead, thereis a square-base circular minaret of out-standing beauty. It was inspired by theprototype of Abbassid minarets thatbecame popular across the Maghreb fromthe end of the 2nd/8th century. Semi-cir-cular towers stand half-way across thewalls except on the south side where thereis a rectangular porch that precedes thesole entrance to the fort. This direct-access entrance, a form that preceded theelbow-shaped entrance which becamecommon in defence buildings, appeared inIfriqiya from the 3rd/9th century. Thebuilding’s entrance seems to take after the

The Great Mosque,kufic inscriptionmentioning the nameof Mudam, Sousse.

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Sousse

sure, is pierced with arches: the worship-pers could thus transform themselves atany moment to soldiers of war in order todefend the ribat.There is not a single element that express-es more eloquently the mixed nature ofthe ribat than this: it is an institution thatis both simultaneously religious and mili-tary. After the confrontation between thetwo Mediterranean shores had come to anend, and the techniques involved in war-fare had evolved, the military role of theribat ceased, and the essential purposeretained therein was that of the spiritual.Several ribats were transformed intoschools in which the religious scienceswere taught; in fact, the architectural planof ribats directly inspired that of Tunisianmadrasas.

VII.3.b The Great Mosque

This is 100 m. south of the preceding monument.Entrance fee. Opening times: 08.00–13.00.

The Great Mosque of Sousse was built bythe Aghlabid Prince Abu al-‘AbbasMohamed in 236/851. It is quadrilateralin form (59 m. x 51 m.) and is composedof a prayer hall which is preceded by acourtyard. The latter, greater in widththan in depth (41 m. x 26 m.) borderedby porticoes along three sides, also datesfrom the Aghlabid period. The fourthportico, situated on the outside of theprayer hall, is a later addition which prob-ably dates back to the 5th/11th century,but which was completely restored in1085/1675. Along the top of the portico’s facade runs akufic inscription mentioning the name ofMudam, the freed slave put in charge by theprince to supervise the work. This inscrip-

tion is the oldest epigraphic frieze decorat-ing the courtyard of a mosque to survive.Unlike the majority of Tunisian mosque-cathedrals, Sousse does not possess aminaret; this absence can be explained bythe proximity of the ribat’s vigil tower. Nev-ertheless, the call to prayer was proclaimedfrom the top of the north-eastern tower,which is surmounted by a domed kiosk dat-ing from the Zirid period (5th/11th centu-ry).The hypostyle room features 13 naves andsix bays. It echoes the T-plan of the ‘UqbaMosque in terms of its median nave,which is larger than its lateral ones, and interms of the dome in front of its mihrab,but differs from the ‘Uqba Mosque interms of its architecture. The naves arecovered by rubble vaults rather than ceil-ings, which are reinforced by semi-circu-lar beam arches, supported on robust pil-lars laid out in the plan of a cross. Thisprayer hall seems to have developedthrough three stages. It is probable thatAbu al-‘Abbas Mohamed proceeded toextend the oratory of Ziyadat Allah’s kas-

The Great Mosque,prayer hall, Sousse.

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Sousse

es, devoid of all decoration, encircled byarchivolts that are linked together by arca-tures. The second dome, which precededthe mihrab of Abu al-‘Abbas, and is situat-ed on the same level as the fourth bay, ascounted from the actual mihrab, echoes theconstruction principles of the Aghlabiddomes of the Kairouanese school of archi-tecture. The circular smooth skullcap sitson top of a an octagonal drum-base onscalloped squinches which fits within twoarches resting on small protruding pillars,themselves supported by small corbels.Horseshoe drafted arches, the backs ofwhich are pierced with openings, link thesquinches together. An epigraphic band ofkufic writing unravels itself above it. Theentire piece is supported on sculpted tym-panum featuring floral decorations inspiredby the Kairouanese decorative repertoire.

bah in order to obtain a room to accom-modate 13 naves and three bays, coveredby barrel vaults. The three bays at theback, covered by groin vaults, were addedby Ibrahim II in 247/862. The mihrab,however, is from the Zirid era, as is attest-ed to by the decoration of the semi-spher-ical dome, which consists of a series ofniches with semi-circular backs and bandscovered in flowery kufic inscription cir-cling the columns that flank the mihrab.These architectural and decorative motifsare taken from the Zirid repertoire. Theprayer hall is surmounted by two domeson the same line as the median nave. TheZirid dome, in front of the actual mihrab,is simple and austere; it is surmounted bya hemispherical skullcap dome placeddirectly on top of a square drum. Thedome’s interior reveals the use of squinch-

Al-Zaqqaq, courtyard,Sousse.

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Sousse

VII.3.c Al-Zaqqaq Madrasa

On exiting the mosque, turn left towards “rueTazerka”.

This monument consists of a cultural cen-tre made up of a madrasa, a mosque and afunerary chamber. It derives its name froma pious man who lived during the 4th/10th

century and who was buried in his ownhouse which was later rebuilt as a madrasa.An entrance covered by a groin vault leadsto a portico courtyard surrounded by stu-dents’ rooms on three sides; the southernsection was completely destroyed duringthe bombings of 1943. The mausoleum’sdome, erected in the north-east corner,dates no doubt from the Husaynite era(12th/18th century–13th/19th century).Inside, the square drum features scallopedsquinches at each corner, engraved withinpolyfoiled arches. The skullcap, made ofpottery segments, is a form frequentlyseen in, and very common to, the Sahelregion of Tunisia. An octagonal minaret,Ottoman in type (12th/18th century), risesup in the north-west corner; it is com-posed of three registers of flat niches,graced with polyfoil arches which are cladin faience tiles. It dates from the 12th/18th

century.

VII.3.d Qubba bin al-Qhawi

Go down “rue Sidi Bouraoui” until you reach thecovered passageway of “rue Mustapha Rezam”which ends on reaching the monument. The Binal-Qhawi Qubba houses the museum of PopularArts and Traditions of Sousse and its surround-ings.Entrance fee. Opening times: 09.000–13.00 and15.00–17.30. Sundays open from 10.00–14.00.Closed Fridays. Toilet facilities available.

This very unusual and bizarre building datesfrom the 5th/11th century. It was most prob-ably a funerary monument that containedthe tomb of a religious or political person-ality of the town. The entrance porch con-sists of a drafted rectangular gate, sur-mounted by a sculpted, scalloped cut-out ofa polyfoiled arch, opening out into threehorseshoe archivolts framed by a serratedcornice. Flat or semi-cylindrical niches fur-nish the corner stones. On the right, eightniches in the shape of a mihrab embellish thefacade of the external wall, above whichrises the dome. This decor cannot but recallthe lateral facade of the Great Mosque ofSfax of the Zirid period (end of 4th/10th

century).The inside of the building is composed of asquare room covered by a vault with fluting

Qubba bin al-Qhawi,dome with zig-zaggingfurrows, Sousse.

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caravanserai was added to the building rela-tively recently, probably in the 11th/17th or12th/18th century; it was completely reno-vated during the 1980s and actually housesthe municipal Museum of Popular Arts andTraditions.

VII.3.e Sidi ‘Ali ‘Ammar Mosque (thismonument is not open to visitors)

From “rue Mustapha Rezam”, enter the Rba‘aSuq, then walk towards “rue de Paris”, in thedirection of “rue el-Mar”, where the monument islocated.

The masjad of Sidi ‘Ali ‘Ammar is distinctfor its sculpted facade which breaks with thesobriety of the architecture of Sousse fromthe Aghlabid era. It is composed of two reg-isters:— The lower register consists of threehorseshoe arches, the last keystones ofwhich do not fall beyond the abacuses of thepillars, which is the first indication that themonument dates from the end of the4th/10th century. The central arch, which ismore elaborate than the others, with a pro-truding keystone, concurs with the entrancegate.— The upper register consists of seven flator semi-cylindrical niches; they are sur-mounted either by polyfoiled or simplearches or by triangles. Medallions featuringfloral motifs and six-point stars calls tomind certain motifs on the porch of theGreat Mosque of Mahdia. The whole istopped by a jagged moulding, like the onealready seen in the dome of the Aghlabidmihrab of the Great Mosque of Sousse. Thedecor on the facade of the Sidi ‘Ali ‘AmmarMosque is very characteristic of theFatimid-Zirid repertoire, as attested toalready by the eastern facade of the Great

that radiates outwards. Archivolt squinchesin the form of a scallop shell establish thetransition between the dome and its squarebase. Triple archivolt recesses link thesquinches to each other. One will note theevident analogy between this dome and thefunerary monument called Qubba of theBanu Khurassan (5th/end of 11th century).On the outside, the skullcap dome is deco-rated with furrows rising up from its baseto its summit. This decor evokes that of cer-tain Almoravid domes, notably that of theQarawiyin of Fez, that of Marrakesh, as wellas the dome of the Mosque of Sidi Marwanin Annaba built in 424/1033. Everythingpoints to the conclusion that it is a monu-ment of the 5th/11th century, but the originof certain decorative elements, especiallythe Z-shaped furrows, remains obscure. A

Sidi ‘Ali ‘AmmarMosque, facade,Sousse.

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Mosque of Sfax and the Zirid dome of theGreat Mosque of Tunis. Everything seemsto confirm that this mosque was builtbetween the middle of the 4th/10th centuryand the beginning of the 5th/11th century.

VII.3.f Buftata Mosque (this monumentis not open to visitors)

Further south, head towards the end of “rue el-Mar”which ends in a sabat, or covered passageway. TheBuftata Mosque faces this passageway, in “rue al-Ma‘aser” in the Bab Qibli neighbourhood.

A beautiful kufic inscription sculpted inrelief on the facade of the oratory attribut-es the construction to the Aghlabid PrinceAbu Iqal al-Aghlab, who reigned from223/838 to 226/841. The oratory is pre-ceded by a barrel-vaulted gallery whosefacade is recessed with three horseshoearches. This design is almost unique withinthe Golden Age of Ifriqiyan architecture.

Buftata Mosque, kuficinscription on thefacade of the oratory,Sousse.

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Sidi ‘Ali ‘AmmarMosque, detail of oneof the flat niches,Sousse.

seems to reflect an official line taken withrespect to the urbanisation of Sousse, dis-tinct for its defensive appearance. The archi-tect of this mosque seems to have elaborat-ed formulas that would later be applied,more forcefully and passionately, by thearchitect of the Great Mosque, built about10 years later.

VII.3.g The Kasbah and the Ramparts

Return towards “rue suq al-Qa’id” and go back asfar as Bab al-Gharbi. Turn left onto “boulevardMaréchal Tito”, until you reach the monument. Ithouses the Sousse Archaeological Museum.

The prayer hall, which is nearly square(7.85 m. x 7.70 m.), is divided into threenaves and three bays; covered with barrelvaults which support beam-arches thatcross at right-angles, resting on cruciformpillars.The principle of three-nave oratories wasadopted everywhere across the MuslimWorld, from the Atlantic right across toAfghanistan, without enabling its evolu-tionary history to be traced. The BuftataMosque is one of the oldest examples of thiskind of oratory to have survived. Althougha princely foundation, this oratory lacks anyelement of decoration to distract the eye.The choice of such austere architecture thus

Kasbah, generaloverview, Sousse.

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Entrance fee. Opening times: 09.00–12.00 and14.00–18.00 from 16th September until 31th

March. 08.00–12.00 and 15.00–19.00 therest of the year. Closed Mondays. Parking avail-able at the entrance. Toilet facilities.

Sousse’s enclosure, which covers an areaof 32 hectares, with a perimeter measur-ing over 2.3 km., was built in 244/859 bythe Aghlabid Prince Abu Ibrahim Ahmed.Built of rubble-stone and occasionally offreestone, it is crowned with crenelationswhose rounded form perpetuates theByzantine tradition. The tracery of theramparts seems to take after the Byzantinewall, some sections of which still exist.The enclosure was pierced by three gates:Bab al-Bhar (Gate of the Sea), Bab al-Qibli(Gate of the Qibla) and Bab al-Gharbi (WestGate). Three further gates were laterbuilt: Bab Jadid (The New Gate, in1280/1864), Bab al-Finga (Gate of theGuillotine), and Bab al-Jebli (North Gate)between 1892 and 1895. During the mod-ern age, certain sections of the rampartswere mended and rebuilt in order toaccommodate pieces of artillery. The kas-bah stands in the south-west corner, andwas built in 235/850 by the AghlabidPrince Abu al-‘Abbas Mohamed; thisfortress housed the military garrison andseat of the governor. The citadel wasrebuilt many times, from the 3rd/9th cen-tury up until the present day, but its old-est part is without doubt the manar ofKhalaf, named after the freed slave of theAghlabid prince who supervised the foun-dation works: in fact it is as old as thefoundation date of the kasbah itself. Thissignal tower, 30 m. in height, presentscertain analogies shared with the GreatMosque of Kairouan by which it has clear-ly been inspired, and is an example of thediffusion of the Kairouanese School of

architecture in the Sahel region. Com-posed of two levels accessible via a stair-case built into the depth of the wall, thecentral cluster is served by four superim-posed rooms covered in vaults of differentshapes. This layout, previously unseen inIslamic art, would appear in Almohadminarets. Note that the construction ofthe Tower of Khalaf allowed for bettercontrol over the maritime coastline thandid the Tower of Ribat; indeed, whilst thelatter stands 27 m. above sea-level, theTower of Khalaf stands 77 m. above sea-level, improving the view by over 13 km.

Ramparts, Sousse.

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07.tunez.recorrido vii ing · scholars and ascetics felt for such insti-tutions facilitated the...

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