AN INTRODUCTIONBasics Fashion Design: Menswear offers a visually engaging and fresh

perspective on this fascinating and subtly complex area

of fashion. It examines the historical and

social evolution of menswear through the ages

and the influence of court and mercantile dress

styles, uniforms and military dress. It considers

the rich history and traditions of men’s

tailoring, comparing and contrasting the sartorial

traditions of London’s Seville Row and the ‘British

look’ with the equally distinctive soft tailoring

traditions from Italy and the all-American preppy

look. Men’s sportswear, and the unparalleled

impact of denim, are also considered as part of

the story. The final part of the book

examines design processes for menswear; how themes,

concepts and influences can be translated into

credible sources of research for menswear

design.

UNDER STANDING MENS WEAR INDUSTRIES

OUTERWEAR

FURNISHING

BUFORCATES

WORKWEAR

NECKWEAR

ACCESSORIES

SHOES

Under following catégories

OUTER WEAR

JACKETSCOATS

DIFFERENT TYPES OF COATS

DIFFERENT TYPES OF JACKETS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF COAT

DIFFERENT STYLES OF JACKETS

A coat is a long garment worn by both men and women, for warmth or fashion. Coats typically have long sleeves and are open down the front, closing by means of buttons zippers, hook-and-loop fasteners, toggles, a belt, or a combination of some of these. Other possible features include collars and shoulder straps.

COATS, JACKETS AND OVERCOATS In the early nineteenth century, coats were divided into under-coats and overcoats.

The term under-coat is now archaic but denoted the fact that the word coat could be both the outermost layer for outdoor wear (overcoat) or the coat worn under that (under-coat). However, the term coat has begun to denote just the overcoat rather than the under-coat. The older usage of the word coat can still be found in the expression "to wear a coat and tie", which does not mean that wearer has on an overcoat. Nor do the terms tailcoat, morning coat or house coat denote types of overcoat. Indeed, an overcoat may be worn over the top of a tailcoat. In tailoring circles, the tailor who makes all types of coats is called a coat maker. Similarly, in American English, the term sports coat is used to denote a type of jacket not worn as outerwear (overcoat) (sports jacket in British English).

• The term jacket is a traditional term usually used to refer to a specific type of short under-coat.[ Typical modern jackets extend only to the upper thigh in length, whereas older coats such as tailcoats are usually of knee length. The modern jacket worn with a suit is traditionally called a lounge coat (or a lounge jacket) in British English and a sack coat in American English. The American English term is rarely used . Traditionally, the majority of men dressed in a coat and tie, although this has become gradually less widespread since the 1960s. Because the basic pattern for the stroller (black jacket worn with striped trousers in British English) and dinner jacket (tuxedo in American English are the same as lounge coats, tailors traditionally call both of these special types of jackets a coat.

COATS

TYPES OF COATS Coats of the 18th and 19th centuries

Men's coats

Frock coat, a knee length men's coat of the nineteenth century

Morning coat or cutaway, a dress coat still worn as formal wear

Tailcoat (dress coat in tailor's parlance), a late eighteenth century men's coat preserved in today's white tie and tails

Lounge coat or sack coat, a coat which is also a jacket

Dinner jacket, a men's semi-formal evening lounge coat.

Smoking jacket, a men's jacket worn informally with black tie

Just corps, a knee-length coat fitted to the waist with flared skirts

DIFFERENT STYLES OF JACKETS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF JACKETS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF JACKETS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF JACKETS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF JACKETS

FURNISHINGS

TSHIRTSSHIRTS

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHIRTS

DIFFERENT TYPES OF TSHIRTS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF SHIRTS DIFFERENT STYLES OF TSHIRTS

SHIRTS

A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body. Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for almost any garment other than outerwear such as sweaters, coats, jackets, or undergarments such as bras, vests or base layers. In British English, a shirt is more specifically a garment with a collar, sleeves with cuffs and a full vertical opening with buttons or snaps. (North Americans would call that a "dress shirt", a specific type of "collared shirt"). A shirt can also be worn with a necktie under the shirt collar.

Charvet shirt from the 1930s, Norsk Folkemeuseum, Oslo.

Three types of shirts Camp shirt – a loose, straight-cut, short sleeved shirt or blouse with a

simple placket front-opening and a "camp collar." Dress shirt – shirt with a formal (somewhat stiff) collar, a full-length

opening at the front from the collar to the hem (usually buttoned), and sleeves with cuffs Dinner shirt – a shirt specifically made to be worn with male evening

wear, e.g. a black tie or white tie. guayabera – an embroidered dress shirt with four pockets.

Poet shirt – a loose-fitting shirt or blouse with full bishop sleeves, usually with large frills on the front and on the cuffs.

T-shirt – also "tee shirt", a casual shirt without a collar or buttons, made of a stretchy, finely knit fabric, usually cotton, and usually short-sleeved. Originally worn under other shirts, it is now a common shirt for everyday wear in some countries. Long-sleeved T-shirt – a t-shirt with long sleeves that extend to cover

the arms. Ringer T-shirt – tee with a separate piece of fabric sewn on as the collar

and sleeve hems– Halfshirt– a high-hemmed t-shirt

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHIRT

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHIRT

A-shirt or singlet (in British English) – essentially a sleeveless shirt with large armholes and a large neck hole, often worn by labourers or athletes for increased movability. Sometimes called a "wife beater" when worn without a covering layer.

POLO SHIRT (also tennis shirt or golf shirt) – a pullover soft collar short-sleeved shirt with an abbreviated button placket at the neck and a longer back than front (the "tennis tail"). RUGBY SHIRT – a long-sleeved polo shirt, traditionally of rugged construction in thick

cotton or wool, but often softer today HENLEY SHIRT – a collarless polo shirt

BASEBALL SHIRT (jersey) — usually distinguished by a three quarters sleeve, team insignia, and flat waistseam

SWEATSHIRT – long-sleeved athletic shirt of heavier material, with or without hood TUNIC– primitive shirt, distinguished by two-piece construction. Initially a men's garment,

is normally seen in modern times being worn by women SHIRTWAIST – historically (circa. 1890-1920) a woman's tailored shirt (also called a

"tailored waist") cut like a man's dress shirt; in contemporary usage, a woman's dress cut like a men's dress shirt to the waist, then extended into dress length at the bottom

NIGHTSHIRT – often oversized, ruined or inexpensive light cloth undergarment shirt for sleeping.

SLEEVELESS SHIRT – A shirt with no sleeves. Contains only neck, bottom hem, body, and sometimes shoulders depending on type. Also referred to as a tank top.

DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHIRT

DIFFERENT STYLES OF SHIRTS

DIFFERENT STYLES OF SHIRTS

•MENS STRIPED T-SHIRT

DIFFERENT TYPES OF T-SHIRT

•Round Neck T Shirts •T-Shirt Style Uniforms•Promotional Polo-T-Shirts

•Casual T-shirt•Worker T Shirts

•Men's Striped T-Shirt •Cotton T- Shirts

DIFFERENT STYLE OF T-SHIRT

Irregular Stripe Chambray Pocket T-Shirt

Wide Notch Neck DJ Girl T-Shirt

Reverse Stripe T-Shirt Pique Denim Collar Polo

Skull Print T-Shirt Striped T-Shirt Sailor Hound T-Shirt Bird Print Wide Notch Neck T-Shirt

DIFFERENT STYLES OF T-SHIRT

Las Vegas Print T-ShirtWhat the Fork T-Shirt Le Breve Large Logo Polo Top

I'm Trending T-Shirt

Zebra Girl Print Deep V T-Shirt Printed Snood T-Shirt

Paris Animal Print T-Shirt Block Panel T-Shirt

BUFORCATES

SHORTS DIFFERENT TYPES OF TSHIRTS

DIFFERENT TYPES OF TROUSERS DIFFERENT STYLES OF TROUSERS

TROUSERS

PANTS

BERMUDAS

TROUSERS

Trousers are an item of clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across both as in skirts and dresses). The word trousers is used in the UK and Ireland, but some other English-speaking countries such as Canada, South Africa, and the United States can also refer to such items of clothing as pants. Additional synonyms include slacks, strides, kegs or kex, breeches (sometimes britches   or breeks. Shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to around the area of the knee, higher or lower than the knee depending on the style of the garment.

In most of the Western world, trousers have been worn since ancient times and throughout the Medieval period, becoming the most common form of lower body clothing for males in the modern period, although shorts are also widely worn, and kilts and other garments may be worn in various regions and cultures. Shorts are often preferred in hot weather or for some sports, and also often by children. Since the late 20th century, trousers have become prevalent for females as well. Trousers are worn at the hips or waist, and may be held up by their own fastenings, a belt, or suspenders (braces). Leggings are form-fitting trousers of a clingy material, often knitted cotton and lycra.

Pleats Pleats just below the waistband on the front typify

many styles of formal and casual trousers, including suit trousers and khakis. There may be one, two, three, or no pleats, which may face either direction. When the pleats open towards the pockets they are called reverse pleats (typical of most trousers today) and when they open toward the fly they are known as forward pleats.

Cuffs Trouser-makers can finish the legs by hemming

the bottom to prevent fraying. Trousers with turn-ups (cuffs in American English), after hemming, are rolled outward and sometimes pressed or stitched into place. The main reason for the turn-ups is to add weight to the bottom of the leg, to help the drape of the trousers.

Fly A fly is a covering over an opening join

concealing the mechanism, such as a zipper, Velcro or buttons, used to join the opening. In trousers, this is most commonly an opening covering the groin, which makes the pants easier to put on or take off. The opening also allows men to urinate without lowering their pants.

PARTS OF TROUSERS

TYPES OF TROUSERS

•Mens Trousers •Cotton Trousers•Thai Fisherman Trouser •Mens Straight Denim

•Polo Club Trousers•Men's Fashion Trouser •Suzuki Casual Trousers •Leather Pants

STYLES OF TROUSERS

Shorts are a bifurcated garment worn by both men and women over their pelvic area, circling the waist, and covering the upper part of the legs, sometimes extending down to or even below the knee, but not covering the entire length of the leg. They are called "shorts" because they are a shortened version of trousers, which cover the entire leg. Shorts are typically worn in warm weather or in an environment where comfort and airflow are more important than the protection of the legs.

SHORTS

David and Julie Eisenhower wearing shorts as they fish in Florida, 1971.

STYLES

BAGGIESLoose-fitting shorts which reach the knees. These were the standard shorts worn by English football teams before World War II. West Bromwich Albion FC are nicknamed the Baggies because their team used to wear particularly baggy shorts. Recently, baggy shorts have become once again the norm in football teams worldwide, after a period from about 1970 to 1990 when football shorts were extremely short.

BERMUDA SHORTSApproximately knee-length short trousers commonly worn in Bermuda (with long socks and a blazer and tie) for business attire and even at cocktail parties. The style has also been adopted as a casual style in other locales. Usually has pockets and waist loops for an optional belt

STYLES OF SHORTS• Board shorts• A combination of shorts and a bathing suit that reach the knee or below, typically worn by men,

which have recently gained in popularity. Board shorts are manufactured by such companies as Billabong, Quiksilver, and Old Navy, originally intended as beachwear. The "board" refers to surfers' surfboards although many others also wear them. In the 1980s, board shorts were called "jams".

• Boxer shorts• Mainly used as male underwear. Some years ago, this term also related to a basic style male

short.• Boyshorts• In the US, Similar to boxer briefs, but for females.• Bun huggers• Short, tight, athletic shorts also known as "racing briefs", commonly made from spandex and/or

nylon. It is claimed that their tight fit and the fact that they barely go down past the buttocks give wearers an unhindered range of motion that is necessary in sports such as volleyball. However, the figure-hugging nature of these shorts makes some wearers feel uncomfortable, and making them compulsory for women athletes has been described as "venturing into the arena of athlete exploitation". Bun huggers for men also exist. These resemble boxer briefs.

• Cargo shorts• Typically khaki shorts with cargo pockets. Similar to cargo pants, but a little below knee-length.

Cargo shorts consist of a garment with more than four pockets; and or pockets that are stitched to the outside of the fabric. Placement of pockets can vary but are most often seen on the lower part or side part of the short. Cargo shorts are distinctive because the pockets are accompanied by an overlying flap. Because of their casual appearance, they are prohibited at some golf courses and restaurants.

Culottes A divided skirt resembling a pair of loose-cut shorts, originally popularized as a practical horse and

bicycle-riding garment by dress reform feminists at the turn of the 20th century. School uniforms have adopted culottes in more recent years as a more practical option than skirts.

Cut-offs or Daisy Dukes Home-made by cutting the legs off trousers, typically jeans (known as "denim cut-offs"), above the

knee. These were particularly popular in the early 1970s. The cut is not finished or hemmed and the fabric is left to fray. They became so popular that they were sold in stores as such. Originally a practical use for trousers with worn-through knees, they are now a type of shorts in their own right. The ultra-short version of jean cut-offs are also known as Daisy Dukes, in reference to Catherine Bach's character of that name from the American television show The Dukes of Hazzard. They are a form of hot-pants or short shorts. The character Tobias Fünke from the television series Arrested Development is also known for wearing cut-off jeans as an undergarment.

Spandex cycling shorts Cycling shorts Skin-tight long shorts originally worn by cyclists to reduce chafing while cycling, but which have also

been adapted and adopted as street wear, active wear and is often worn under skirts and dresses (mostly under school uniforms) for modesty reasons. Also commonly known as "bike shorts".

Denim shorts Denim shorts are worn by both genders. For males, they are generally looser and longer. Dolphin shorts An athletic style of shorts, notable for visible binding of an often contrasting color. The name may refer

to a side-view of the binding of each leg's lower hem, resembling the shape of a dolphin tail. Like gym shorts, they often feature a cord to be tied around the waist at the front. These were a popular trend in the 1980s gym scene.

STYLES OF SHORTS

Gym shorts Gym shorts are often worn in gym class or for participation in sports, hence the name,

but they are worn as casual wear almost as much, especially by adolescents. They are usually not form-fitting when worn by men or female athletes, but are often form-fitting when worn by women as casual dress. Length is usually from just above the knee to just below the knee. In the 1970s and 1980s in the U.S. gym shorts were often form-fitting and only slightly longer than boxer shorts. Gym shorts are generally made of cotton, spandex, polyester, or another synthetic fiber with a cord sewn in that can be tied at the front to tighten the waist.

Jorts A portmanteau word for denim shorts erroneously referred to as jean shorts. Lederhosen Traditional German leather shorts. Leather shorts Shorts made from leather. Plaid shorts Usually made of Madras, fabricated woven of differently colored yarns in a crossbarred

pattern. Popularized by "skater" stores, but now becoming more "preppy". Running shorts Reach only the upper thigh; intended to provide maximum freedom of movement in

sports activities. These are often made from Nylon, which has the advantage of being very hardwearing. After Adidas sponsored the 1980 Olympic Games,Adidas nylon track shorts were a fashion item for some years.

SHOES

CASUALFORMAL

DIFFERENT TYPES OF FORMAL DIFFERENT TYPES OF CASUAL

DIFFERENT STYLES OF FORMAL DIFFERENT STYLES OF CASUAL

A shoe is an item of footwear intended to protect and comfort the human foot while doing various activities. Shoes are also used as an item of decoration. The design of shoes has varied enormously through time and from culture to culture, with appearance originally being tied to function. Additionally fashion has often dictated many design elements, such as whether shoes have very high heels or flat ones. Contemporary footwear varies widely in style, complexity and cost. Basic sandals may consist of only a thin sole and simple strap. High fashion shoes may be made of very expensive materials in complex construction and sell for thousands of dollars a pair. Other shoes are for very specific purposes, such as boots specially designed for mountaineering or skiing.

• Shoes have traditionally been made from leather, wood or canvas, but are increasingly made from rubber, plastics, and other petrochemical-derived materials.

• Until recent years, shoes were not worn by most of the world's population—largely because they could not afford them. Only with the advent of mass production, making shoes available very cheaply, has shoe-wearing become predominant.

• The foot contains more bones than any other single part of the body. Though it has evolved over hundreds of thousands of years in relation to vastly varied terrain and climate conditions, the foot is still vulnerable to environmental hazards such as sharp rocks and hot ground, which shoes can protect against.

SHOES

TYPES OF SHOES

• Dress and casual• Dress shoes are characterized by smooth and

supple leather uppers, leather soles, and narrow sleek figure. Casual shoes are characterized by sturdy leather uppers, non-leather outsoles, and wide profile.

• Some designs of dress shoes can be worn by either gender. The majority of dress shoes have an upper covering, commonly made of leather, enclosing most of the lower foot, but not covering the ankles. This upper part of the shoe is often made without apertures or openings, but may also be made with openings or even itself consist of a series of straps, e.g. an open toe featured in women's shoes. Shoes with uppers made high to cover the ankles are also available; a shoe with the upper rising above the ankle is usually considered a boot but certain styles may be referred to as high-topped shoes or high-tops. Usually, a high-topped shoe is secured by laces or zippers, although some styles have elastic inserts to ease slipping the shoe on.

• Men's• This male dress shoe, known as a blucher, is distinguished by its open lacing.• Men's shoes can be categorized by how they are closed:• Oxfords (also referred as "Balmorals"): the vamp has a V-shaped slit to which the laces

are attached; also known as "closed lacing". The word "Oxford" is sometimes used by American clothing companies to market shoes that are not Balmorals, such as Blüchers.

• Blüchers (American), Derbys (British): the laces are tied to two pieces of leather independently attached to the vamp; also known as "open lacing" and is a step down in dressiness.

• Monk-straps: a buckle and strap instead of lacing• Slip-ons: There are no lacings or fastenings. The popular loafers are part of this category,

as well as less popular styles, such as elastic-sided shoes.• Men's shoes can also be decorated in various ways:• Plain-toes: have a sleek appearance and no extra decorations on the vamp.• Cap-toes: has an extra layer of leather that "caps" the toe. This is possibly the most

popular decoration.• Brogues (American: wing-tips): The toe of the shoe is covered with a perforated panel,

the wing-tip, which extends down either side of the shoe. Brogues can be found in both balmoral and blucher styles, but are considered slightly less formal.

• Men's shoes on display in a shopping outlet.

TYPES OF SHOES

OXFORDS LOAFERS CAP TOES

DRESS BOOTS MONK STRAP

TYPES OF SHOES

A necktie (or tie) is a long piece of cloth worn for decorative purposes around the neck or shoulders, resting under the shirt collar and knotted at the throat. Variants include the ascot tie, bow tie, bolo tie, and the clip-on tie. The modern necktie, ascot, and bow tie are descended from the cravat. Neck ties are generally unsized, but may be available in a longer size. Men and boys wear neckties as part of regular office attire or formal wear. Neckties can also be worn as part of a uniform (e.g. military, school and waitstaff), whereas some choose to wear them as everyday clothing attire. Neckties are traditionally worn with the top shirt button fastened, and the tie knot resting comfortably between the collar points. However, it has become common in recent times for neckties to be worn as a casual item, tied loosely around the neck, nearly always with one or several buttons unfastened.

NECKWEAR -NECKTIES

TYPES OF NECK TIES Cravat In 1660, in celebration of its hard-fought victory over the Ottoman Empire, a crack regiment

from Croatia visited Paris. There, the soldiers were presented as glorious heroes to Louis XIV a monarch well known for his eye toward personal adornment. It so happened that the officers of this regiment were wearing brightly colored handkerchiefs fashioned of silk around their necks. These neck cloths struck the fancy of the king, and he soon made them an insignia of royalty as he created a regiment of Royal Cravat's. The word "cravat" is derived from the à la croate—in the style of the Croats.

Four-in-hand The four-in-hand necktie (as distinct from the four-in-hand knot) was fashionable in Great Britain

in the 1850s. Early neckties were simple, rectangular cloth strips cut on the square, with square ends. The term "four-in-hand" originally described a carriage with four horses and a driver; later, it also was the name of a London gentlemen's club.

Six- and seven-fold ties A seven-fold tie is an unlined construction variant of the four-in-hand necktie which pre-existed

the use of interlining. Its creation at the end of the 19th century is attributed to the Parisian shirtmaker Washington Tremlett for an American customer. A seven-fold tie is constructed completely out of silk.

A six-fold tie is a modern alteration of the seven-fold tie. This construction method is more symmetrical than the true seven-fold. It has a interlining which gives it a little more weight and is self tipped.

Clip-on tie The clip-on necktie is permanently knotted bow tie or four-in-hand style affixed with a metal clip to

the front of the shirt collar. This 20th-century innovation is considered by some to be stylistically inferior, but may be considered appropriate by some for wear in occupations (e.g., law enforcement, service clerks, airline pilots, etc.) where a traditional necktie could pose a safety hazard. Clip-on ties are also the most common form of child-sized ties.

• Ascot Tie• The ascot is a type of formal

neckwear for men that originated in Britain during the late 19th century. The look of the ascot tie resembles part modern necktie and part scarf or pashmina.

Bolo Tie• The bolo tie, or sometimes

also called "bola tie" is commonly found in the southern state of the US such as Arizona, Texas, ans New Mexico. The bolo is a tie consisting of a string of braided leather or cord that is fastened with an ornamental clasp. It is commonly associated with western wear.

TYPES OF NECK TIES

ASCOT TIE

BOLO TIE

CRAVAT

WORKWEAR

Workwear is clothing worn for work, especially work that involves manual labor. Often those employed within various trade industries elect to be outfitted in various forms of workwear because it is built to provide greater durability and safety.

• The workwear clothing industry is growing and consumers have numerous retailers to choose from. Buyers see workwear as the workhorse of the men's apparel business, one currently registering better increases than apparel overall. Chains that have made a commitment to the $1 billion and rising workwear business report steady 6 percent to 8 percent annual gains in men's workwear.

Mass market retailers are wringing incremental sales out of workwear, making their stores destination outlets for the category.

Workwear Clothing can be seen as a crucial element in providing brand awareness for a company. Adding a brand logo to staff workwear is an effective method of increasing brand visibility and exposure at minimal cost to the organisation. The logo is often applied using embroidery, Screen-printing or heat sealing. In the UK, if workwear is provided to an employee without a logo, it may be subject to income tax being levied on the employee for a "payment in kind" However if company clothing is provided with logos on then the employee may be entitled to a tax rebate to help pay for the up keep.

Distinguish the suit by the number of buttons in the jacket - two, three or four.

WORKWEAR CLOTHING

The four-button suit makes a fashion statement, worn largely in Italy and other fashion centers of Europe.   The classic three-button jacket in which the first lapel rolls high on the chest.   The three-button suit. The norm before the sixties, now considered 'fashionable'. Typically worn with the top two buttoned.  

 

 

Single breasted blue blazer with beige trousers.

  Grey check suit.   Classic dark pin-stripe suit.

 

Classic black tuxedo worn with black trousers.

  Unusual white tuxedo worn with white trousers.

Camel colour suit feels cool in summer.

 The traditional double-breasted blazer best with grey trousers.

Navy blue self stripe suit

WORKWEAR CLOTHING

Bespoke English pronunciation: is a term employed in a variety of applications to mean an item custom-made to the buyer's specification (personalized or tailored). While applied to many items now, from computer software to luxury car appointments, the term historically was applied only to tailored clothing, shirts, and other parts of men's apparel involving measurement and fitting.

The distinguishing points of bespoke tailoring are the buyer's total control over the fabric used, the features and fit, and the way the garment should be made. More generally, bespoke describes a high degree of "customization", and involvement of the end-user, in the production of the goods.

TAILOR CLOTHING

The word bespoke itself is derived from the verb to bespeak, to "speak for something", in the specialized meaning "to give order for it to be made". The term bespoke in fashion is reserved for individually patterned and crafted men's clothing, analogous to women's haute couture in contrast with mass manufactured ready-to-wear (also called off-the-peg or off-the-rack). While widespread in the United Kingdom, the term is rarely employed in the United States, although it may be used by some in the high-end tailoring business.Bespoke clothing is traditionally cut from a pattern drafted from scratch for the customer, and so differs from ready-to-wear, which is factory made in finished condition and standardized sizes, and from made-to-measure, produced to order from an adjusted block pattern. This opposition of terms did not initially imply that a bespoke garment was necessarily well built, but since the development of ready-to-wear in the beginning of the twentieth century, bespoke clothing is now more expensive and is generally accompanied by a high quality of construction.

While the distinction conferred by haute couture is protected by law in France, the British Advertising Standards Authority has ruled it is a fair practice to use the term bespoke for products which do not fully incorporate traditional construction methods. This position is opposed by the Savile Row Bespoke Association, a trade group of traditional tailors.

DIFFERENT STYLES OF TAILOR CLOTHING

CASUAL OFFICE WEAROFFICE CASUAL MEANING Many businesses adopt casual Fridays, a day when employees are free from the suit and

tie codes. Some companies have an everyday casual dress code, but finding out exactly what it entails isn't always easy. Even if your job has a written dress code, there are sometimes unwritten rules that you're expected to follow

For casual Fridays in the office or jobs that allow "business casual" clothing, finding the right office casual Address code balance can be tricky. American fashion has taken a drubbing when compared to European style. Stateside, the trend tends toward more casual rather than less. Of course, a lot of this depends on where you live and what environment you work in. Jeans have become a regular part of everyday wear for so many people that the only time they are taken off is for the office

Business casual is a popular dress code in professional and white-collar workplaces in Western countries. In the United States, 43% of non-self-employed workers commonly wear casual business attire. Casual street wear is the next most common work attire (28%), closely followed by uniforms (19%). Only a minority (9%) of workers wear formal business attire.Business casual has partially supplanted business formal attire wear (suits and neckties, sometimes called international standard business attire), which was previously the standard apparel for managers and professionals.

BUSINESS CASUAL

Compared to the dress code of many blue-collar and service workers, business casual dress is not a uniform. In contrast to business informal, there is no generally accepted definition of business casual wear. The interpretation of business casual differs widely among organizations and is often a cause of confusion.The New York Times cites job search engine Monster.com's definition:"In general, business casual means dressing professionally, looking relaxed, yet neat and pulled together."

DIFFERENT STYLES OF CASUAL OFFICEWEAR

DIFFERENT STYLES OF CASUAL OFFICEWEAR

The case examines the changing dynamics of the women's wear market in India during the1990s and early-2000s. Changes in India's cultural values and social system, and the impact of these changes on the dressing styles of Indian women are explored in detail. Madura Garment's decision to enter the readymade women's Western wear segment is examined in detail in light of the above changes

CASE STUDY OF ALLENSOLLY

  BACKGROUND NOTEThe Indian apparel industry was dominated by the unorganized sector, with market share of over 97%. The industry was divided into two segments, ready-to-wear and tailormade. The industrywas also divided on demographic (men, women and kids) and geographic (each state having itsown dressing style) parameters. Over the decades, the developments in men’s and women’s wear segments showed markedly different trends. While traditionally Indian men preferred to get their clothes stitched by their trusted tailors, by the early-1990s, ready-to-wear clothes had becomeextremely popular. However, most Indian women traditionally wore sarees and other ethnic wear (Refer Exhibit II).Though Western wear entered the country through Hindi movies in the 1950s itself, it remainedlimited only to teenage girls even by the early 1980s. This was so because after marriage Indianwomen were generally expected to wear sarees. Though the saree segment was also almostentirely in the hands of small, localized players, there were a few national brands as well. Garden(from the house of Bombay Dyeing) was one of the first popular brands. Over the years, manyother brands such as Vimal, Kunwar Ajay, Roop Milan and Parag emerged. Saree prices rangedfrom as low as Rs 50 to as high as a few million rupees.

  Since competition in the men’s segment was intense and demand was reportedly inching towardssaturation levels, the future growth was projected to come from the women’s and kid’s wear segments. Of the Rs 31 billion branded readymade women’s wear market, about Rs 6 billion wasfrom women’s Western wear, and this market was projected to grow at 25% in the future.

THE MARKET GETS BRANDED

Indus League was the first company to enter the branded women’s wear segment in the country.In 2000, the company launched a women’s range named ‘Scullers Woman’ as an extension of its popular men’s wear brand ‘Scullers.’ Promoted as ‘smart casuals for work and after,’ the Scullerswomen’s range was launched in three basic lines, Essentials, Manhattan and Chromium.Essentials offered basic knitted cotton blouses, flat front trousers, skirts and capris; Manhattanoffered party and evening wear; and Chromium offered formal wear and evening wear (Refer Exhibit III).The company also launched a silk apparel collection named Geometric, which offered short tops,shirts and sarong sets. Scullers was marketed through exclusive ‘Scullers Club Stores’ located inmajor cities across the country. The range was also made available at major retail stores such asShoppers Stop, Globus, Pantaloons and Lifestyle. Since it was the pioneer in the market, ScullersWoman received an enthusiastic response.The next major brand to enter the market was ‘Be,’ launched by Raymond’s in July 2001. WhileScullers products were marketed through existing stores (both company-owned and multi-brandstores), Raymond’s Be brand was sold through exclusive stores. Commenting on Raymond’sentry into women’s wear, Gautam Singhania (Singhania), the company’s Chairman & ManagingDirector, said, “After much thought, we have decided to take the plunge. The launch of the Berange is an initiative aimed at corporatizing the designer range of clothing. Be will provide a platform for designers to showcase their talents for larger number of consumers.

SPORTSWEAR ACTIVEWEAR

Sportswear or active wear is clothing, including footwear, worn for sport or physical exercise. Sport-specific clothing is worn for most sports and physical exercise, for practical, comfort or safety reasons.

Typical sport-specific garments include shoes, tracksuits, T-shirts, tennis shirts and polo shirts. Specialized garments include wet suits (for swimming, diving or surfing) and salopettes (for skiing) and leotards (for gymnastics. Sports footwear include trainers. It also includes some underwear, such as the jockstrap and sports bra. Sportswear is also at times worn as casual fashion clothing.

For most sports the athletes wear a combination of different items of clothing, e.g. sport shoes, pants and shirts. In some sports, protective gear may be require to be worn, such as helmets or American football body armor

FUNCTIONAL CONSIDERATIONS Moisture transferring fabricSportswear is typically designed to be light weight so as not to encumber the wearer. The best athletic wear for some forms of exercise, for example cycling, should not create drag or be too bulky.On the other hand, sportswear should be loose enough so as not to restrict movement. Some sports have specific style requirements, for example the keikogi used in karate. Various physically dangerous sports require protective gear, e.g. for fencing, American football, or ice hockey.Standardized sportswear may also function as a uniform. In team sports the opposing sides are usually made identifiable by the colours of their clothing, while individual team members can be made recognizable by a back number on a shirt.Spandex is the preferred material for form-fitting sportswear, such as use in wrestling, trac & Field, dance, gymnastics and swimming.

SPORTSWEAR FASHION Sportswear has been called America's main contribution to the history of fashion design The term

became popular in the 1920s to describe relaxed, casual wear typically worn for spectator sports Since the 1930s the term is used to describe both day and evening fashions of varying degrees of formality that demonstrate this relaxed approach while remaining appropriate wear for many business or social occasions.

SPORTSWEAR OUTSIDE THE UNITED STATES

In the late 1940s and 1950s non-American designers began to pay attention to sportswear, and attempted to produce collections following its principle. French couturiers such as Dior and Jacques Fath simplified their designs for ready-to-wear production, but at first only the Italian designers understood the sportswear principle. Designers such as Emilio Pucci and Simonetta Visconti grasped that there was a market for clothing that combined sophistication and comfort.Italy had a reputation for fine fabrics and excellent workmanship, and the emergence of high quality Italian ready-to-wear that combined this luxury with the casual quality of American sportswear ensured the worldwide success of Italian fashion by the mid-1970s. This was a challenge to the American industry. John Fairchild, the outspoken publisher of Women's Wear Daily opined:

"The Italians were the first to make refined sportswear. [...] Americans don't mind spending if the sweater is by Krizia or Missoni

In the 21st century Italian fashion remains a leading source for sportswear design outside the United States. Narciso Rodriguez, who is known for streamlined and pared down clothing, launched in Milan in 1997, but moved to New York in 2001.Miuccia Prada revived the fortunes of her family company Prada with her top-quality sportswear designs in the 1990s, and continues designing for the firm.

DIFFERENT STYLES OF SPORTS ACTIVEWEAR

DIFFERENT SYLES OF SPORTSWEAR FASHION

INTRODUCTION Adidas wanted to position itself as the most inspirational sports apparel and athletic footwear brand. To translate this desire into a distinct and meaningful proposition, 180 and TBWA (global advert agencies) worked with 22 sports icons and engaged them into sharing their journey to success. The idea behind was to let audience know what all barriers and impediments- social, physical and mental, these people encountered and vanquished to become what they are today.

Rationale: No store/shelfspace issues: With a richrepertoire of athletic footwearand apparel up its sleeves,showcasing the same via onlineeliminates issues related tonegotiating shelf space orsetting up a new store. Furtherwith help of cutting edgetechnology, footwear modelscan be examined with 360degree rotational view along

CASE STUDY OF ADIDAS

Using groundbreakingtactics such as billboard soccer,building climbing, expansive wallscrapers and topiary styledbillboards are part of the adidasarsenal. These avant gardetechniques have been successfulin capturing the undividedattention of the audience

OUTDOOR

Sponsorships:Official sponsor of FIFA World Cup 2006- To leverage brand to match the magnitude of the event.Take brand across to all football playing nations. Also wanted to capture the incredible passion forfootball that is shared by billions of fans around the world.Official sponsor of Olympics 2004- adidas came up with 3 superb commercials leading up to theevent featuring Olympic legends such as Jesse Owens and Nadia Comaneci. Olympics winnersepitomize the desire to break grounds and set new limits which is also shared by adidas. Throughthese commercials adidas attempts to inspire the young to test their limits.

MANUFACTURER BRANDMerchandise bearing a manufacturer's brand name, rather than a private label brand. The marketing effort of a manufacturer's brand is to attract customers loyal to the manufacturer's name. For example, many successful clothing designers, operating on this principle, have licensed their manufacturer's brand name outside the clothing category to include cosmetics, perfumes, and even jewelry.

essentially private label and manufacturer label are synonomous. what you want to ask are Name Brand vs. Generic Brand a name brand is any brand that is widely spread and either owns or uses products to promote itself.. like The Coca-Cola company owns coke, sprite, fanta, nestea, fresca and a few others like full throttle and dasani... those are all under the Coke company now, a generic brand is like Publix brand soda or winn-dixie's Check soda... those are generic brands... most often one company, sometimes the large name brand companies, make a product under a generic label... for example there is a company that supplies both Publix and Winn-Dixie with the same type of sugar, obviously with different labels,, but the sugar itself is the same.... the difference all comes down to cost of the product vs. profit (at least for the companies involved)... publix might sell that bag of sugar for a dollar while winn-dixie would sell it for 2 dollars... etc. as far as quality vs. cost, generic brands are always the knock-outs when it comes to quality and quantity for price... one could buy two bags of generic brown sugar but only one or less of the Name brand sugar... which if i must say is of a much lesser quality..

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DIFFERENT STYLES OF CLOTHING OF MANUFACTURER BRAND

CASE STUDY OF RAYMONDS•   Case Study: Raymond’s Mall Centric Plan• 1)• Critically evaluate the mall based retail expansion model of Raymond’s. Pros:• •• Raymond needs the retail expansion model to meet its target of 15 to20 TRS outlets every year.• •• Investments done by franchiser results in higher expansion rate• •• Higher per capita disposable income results in people looking for an overall experience in malls• •• Higher exposure to Raymond brand with an increase in number of people going to malls• ••  The new model can be dismantled and rebuild in a new place whenever required. This allows

Raymond to recover at least half of its capital.• •• Malls have higher investments compared to other forms of retailing options• •• Raymond will move away from its core business of selling fabrics with retailers trying to sell more

apparels• •• Malls are not yet so popular in India

• Mall based retail expansion will not be preferred by franchisee because it reduces the profit earned by them, with franchisee out of contention the whole investment has to bedone by the company which is not easy.

• • The rental cost of hiring a shop in a mall is very high and does not suit the company’sfranchisee model distribution channel.• • The lower income level is ignored by this type of model.• • There are many customers in mall but potential buyers are very few.• • Mall in a city are omnipresent and it is not possible to set up shops in each mall and somany customers are divided and only

a few people are targeted.Ans. The mall based retail expansion model of Raymond can be evaluated on the following points:• •• The target consumer of Raymond’s apparel is salaried upper middle income class livingin urban areas. Besides formal wear

the purchase is also done for family ceremonies or festive occasions. The mall based expansion will help in reaching its target customer basewhich mainly resides in urban areas.

• •• Some of its main competitors are S kumars, Zodiac, Bombay Dyeing, etc. The companywill also face competition from the

unorganised sector. The malls have not beencapitalised very much till now so Raymond might have an edge as the first mover.

• •• Rapid expansion of malls in cities will help Raymond in achieving its target of 1 millionsquare feet of space which might be

difficult if expansion is not through malls.• Mall based expansion might result into higher sales of apparels than fabrics which isconsistent with the observed trend of

consumers shifting towards apparels from fabrics.

DESIGNER LABEL &LICENSING

The term designer label refers to clothing and other personal accessory items sold under an often prestigious marquee which is commonly named after a designer. The term is most often only applied to luxury items. Examples includes labels such as Bijan, Burberry, Gucci, Armani, Calvin Klein, Versace, Shiatzy Chen, Louis Vuitton, Cartier SA, Dolce & Gabbana, Christian Dior, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada, Valentino, Chanel and others which are derived from the company's founder and most iconic designer. Other clothing (and accessories) marquee names do not directly refer to the company's founder: for example, Dooney & Bourke, United Colors of Benetton, and L.L.Bean may be referred to as designer labels. While members of the upper middle class, or the mass affluent, are perhaps the most commonly targeted customers of these designer labels, some marquees—such as Cartier—tend to a wealthier customer base.

The relationship between consumer products, and social status is highly debated.

DIFFERENT CLOTHING OF DESIGNER LABEL

CASE STUDY OF PIERRE CARDIN Pierre Cardin (French pronunciation: , born

Pietro Cardin, is an Italian-born French fashion designer who was born on 7 July 1922, at San Biagio di Callalta near Treviso.

Cardin was known for his avant-garde style and his Space Age designs. He prefers geometric shapes and motifs, often ignoring the female form. He advanced into unisex fashions, sometimes experimental, and not always practical. He introduced the "bubble dress" in 1954.

Pierre Cardin was also designated UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador in 1991.

On 16 October 2009, Pierre Cardin was nominated Goodwill Ambassador of the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO).

CARREERCardin moved to Paris in 1945. There, he studied architecture and worked with Jeanne Paquin after the war. He worked with Elsa Schiaparelli until he became head of Christian Dior's tailleure atelier in 1947, but was denied work at Balenciaga.Cardin founded his own house in 1950. His career was launched when he designed about 30 of the costumes for "the party of the century", a masquerade ball at Palazzo Labia in Venice on 3 September 1951, hosted by the palazzo's owner, Carlos de Beistegui. He began with haute couture in 1953.Cardin was the first couturier to turn to Japan as a high fashion market when he travelled there in 1959.In 1959, he was expelled from the Chambre Syndical for launching a ready-to-wear collection for the Printemps department store as the first couturier in Paris, but was soon reinstated.

Cardin resigned from the Chambre Syndical in 1966 and began showing his collections in his own venue, the "Espace Cardin" (opened 1971) in Paris, formerly the "Theater des Ambassadors", near the Embassy of the United States in Paris. The Escape Cardin is also used to promote new artistic talents, like theater ensembles, musicians and others. He was also contacted by Pakistan International Airlines to design uniforms for the flag carrier. The uniforms were introduced in 1966 to 1971 and became an instant hit.

In 1971, Cardin redesigned the Barong Tagalong, a national costume of the Philippines by opening the front, removing the cuffs that needed cufflinks, flaring the sleeves, and minimizing the embroidery. It was also tapered to the body, in contrast with the traditional loose-fitting design; it also had a thicker collar with sharp and pointed cuffs. A straight jacket design was favored by President Ferdinand Marcos.

Cardin was a member of the Chambre Syndical de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter from 1953 to 1993. Like many other designers today, Cardin decided in 1994 to show his collection only to a small circle of selected clients and journalists. After a break of 15 years, he showed a new collection to a group of 150 journalists at his bubble home in Cannes.

SUBMITTED BYKhushbu raniroll-no : 03

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