MILAN FACTORY VISIT REPORT

11TH TO 15TH SEPTEMBER 2017

DAY 1 AGENDA | 01

11TH SEP

MONDAY

10.30 AM - 11 AM

Introduction about Moellhausen S.P.A and Compa-ny Video by Andrea Ghezzi Perego and Stephanie Moellhausen

11 AM - 12 PM

Visit to Factory Facilities with Luigi Ducci

12 PM - 1 PM

Quality Assurance with Claudia d’Angelo

1 PM - 2.30 PM

Lunch Break

2.30 PM - 4 PM

Regulatory affairs with Francesca Perego

DAY 1 | 02

1.1INTRODUCTION TO MOELLHAUSEN

Founded in 1967 by Eithel Moellhaussen, Moellhausen is one of the world’s leading family run companies in the in-dustry of flavours, fragrances and raw materials. The key departments in the company include:

I. REGULATORY AFFAIRS:

• Compliance with Industry Regulations• Compliance with Health and Safety Regulations• Customer Support catering to requests with high level

of autonomy

II. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATERIALS:

• Monitoring the financial market and exchange rates• Analyzing macro-economic and political situations• Understanding seasonality and abundance of crops

worldwide• Developing algorithms for the dynamic definition of

minimum stock on an analytical basis• Provide the most stable and competitive price in the

market

III. PRODUCTION, LOGISTICS AND QUALITY:

• The manufacturing plant in Cambiago is the heart of the production system

• Stock of over 1600 raw materials• Over 14,000 samples of coded references are available• Quick and Precise automatic compounders to prepare

complex specialities

IV. SALES AND MARKETING

• Market Intelligence provided to customers through in-depth market surveys

• Trend forecast reports sent proactively to customers• Access to detailed Mintel GNPD and market trend re-

ports.

V. FINANCE ADMINISTRATION AND CONTROL

• Strategy Planning and creation of business plans• Cash management with predictive capabilities• Risk management with legal and tax compliance

1.1INTRODUCTION TO MOELLHAUSEN

VI. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:

• Use of latest analytical instruments for chemico-phys-ical characterization and application testing of new fragrances

• Access to advanced research technologies through agreements with select institutes

• Organoleptic tests with team of experts

DAY 1 | 03

1.2FACTORY FACILITIES TOUR

DAY 1 | 04

CUSTOM DESIGNED SOFTWAREINTEGRATED WITH GENERAL ERP

Supervises all mixing and packing opera-tions. Any error in mixing is immediately displayed on the screen and halts further operations until rectified.

COMPOUNDING SYSTEM

Lines have different dosing intervals, be-ing fed a total of about 30 powders and 700 liquids which are kept under nitrogen blanketing.

INGREDIENTS

>1,600 in permanent stock Automated Shelf-Life Alerts

INSTALLED QC/QA EQUIPMENTS

GC/FID GC/MISHPLC/UV-DADFlash GCRefractometer

GC-MS/MSLC-MS/MS

AUTOMATED WAREHOUSE FOR SAMPLE STORAGE

Can store upto 100,000 representative samples of 30 ml each.

MATERIALS

Aroma ChemicalsComplementary FFMEssential Oils and Plant ExtractsInnovative FFM

1.2FACTORY FACILITIES TOUR

DAY 1 | 05

DAY 1 | 06

1.3QUALITY ASSURANCE/QUALITY CONTROL

VENDOR

MSDS/TDS

RECEIVING/SHIPPING

QC CHECKPOINTS

PRODUCTION

MONTHLY INTERNAL AUDITS

VENDOR AUDITS

4 CALIBRATION TESTS PER YEAR

PEST CONTROL SYSTEMS(TOXIC/NON-TOXIC)

TRAINING PLAN

HYGIENE

PRODUCT DEFENSE

ANNUAL TRACEABILITY AND RECALL TESTS

CUSTOMER

BATCHWISEQC CHECKPOINTS

CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS

CUSTOMER CLAIMS

DAY 1 | 07

1.4REGULATORY AFFAIRS

CHEMICALS + PRODUCTS

COSMOS

NATURAL COSMETICS

CITES

EXTINCT PLANTS

ECOLABEL

ORGANIC LABEL

SVHC

ENVIRONMENTALLY DANGEROUS GOODS

PIC

IMPORT CONTROL

REACH

EUROPE, TURKEY, CHINA, TAIWAN AND S.KOREA

GHS

DANGEROUS SUBSTANCES

NPS

POISONOUS SUBSTANCES

IFRA

CARCINOGENICSUBSTANCES

DAY 2 AGENDA | 08

12TH SEP

TUESDAY

MILAN TOUR // NICHE PERFUME SHOPS

DAY 3 AGENDA | 09

13TH SEP

WEDNESDAY

10.30 AM - 1 PM

Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen

1 PM - 2. 30 PM

Lunch

2.30 PM - 4 PM

Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen

DAY 3 | 10

3.1OLFACTIVE COURSE

HISTORY

EGYPTIANS

OILS/OINTMENTS/INCENSE FOR RELI-GIOUS AND MEDICAL PURPOSES

JEWS

PERFUMES IN TEM-PLES FOR SPIRITUAL PURPOSES

ROMANS

SCENTED DOVES TO PERFUME AIR / SCENTED WALLS FOR AESTHETIC PURPOSES

EUROPEANS

PERFUMERY COMES TO EUROPE IN THE MIDDLE AGES BE-CAUSE OF CRUSADERS

EAST

ALCOHOL DISTILLA-TION IS FOUNDED

WEST

PERFUME IS BANNED BY THE CHURCH AS IT IS A SIGN OF SENSU-ALITY

DAY 3 | 11

3.1OLFACTIVE COURSE

HISTORY

ITALY

HOME OF FRA-GRANCES

FRANCE

PERFUMERY BROUGHT TO FRANCE BY QUEEN CATHERINA DE MEDICI USES SCENTED LEATH-ER GLOVES .

GRASSE

STARTED CULTIVATING FLOWERS TO MAKE SCENTS TO DEODOR-ISE LEATHER

FRENCH REVOLUTION

DISCOVERY OF COU-MARIN THE FIRST AROMA CHEMICAL, RISE OF MODERN PER-FUMERY

PAUL POIRET

FIRST TO DEVELOP A BRANDED FRA-GRANCE AND GAVE IT AS A RETURN GIFT AT A PARTY.

COCO CHANEL(1921)

DEVELOPS THE FIRST ALDEHYDIC PERFUME INSPIRED BY POIRET CALLED CHANEL NO. 5

DAY 3 | 12

3.2OLFACTIVE COURSE

OLFACTION

• We smell with our brain.

• Smell and Taste are highly connected.

• Humidity is required to properly smell fragarances (Luca Tu-

rin’s theory).

• Best to smell fragrances with one nostril at a time.

• Avoid saturation of fragrances by smelling coffee beans or a

familiar smell to you such as your outfit.

• All our senses receive signals from the outside world and

keeps you alert.

• The sense of smell is connected to the limbic system which

processes memories and emotions.

• There are no copyrights on fragrances.

DAY 3 | 13

3.2OLFACTIVE COURSE

OLFACTION

NORMAL PERCEPTION OLFACTORY PERCEPTION

NAME

CATEGORY

ASSOCIATIVE MEMORY

FAMILIARITY

EMOTIONS

EMOTIONS

FAMILIARITY

ASSOCIATIVE MEMORY

CATEGORY

NAME

“CHILDHOOD MEMORIES FROM THE AGES OF

1-4 YEARS GENERATE

THESTRONGEST

ASSOCIA-TIONS.

DAY 3 | 14

3.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PRODUCTION PROCESS

NATURAL ESSENTIALS

FLOWER, LEAF, STEM, BARK, WOOD, ROOT, BUD, FRUIT, GUMS, RESINS

HYDRADISTILLATION

VOLATILE SOLVENT EXTRACTION

EXPRESSION(CITRUS)

MOST USED PROCESSES

CO2 EXTRACTION EXPENSIVE(PINK PEPPER)

MOLECULAR DISTILLATION COLOURLESS PRODUCTS

ESSENTIAL OILS

FATTY SATURATED CONCRETE

THICK LIQUID ABSOLUTE

RESINOID

EXTRACTED OIL

DAY 3 | 15

3.4OLFACTIVE COURSE

FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS

NATURALS AROMA CHEMICALS

ABSOLUTE

BALSAM

CONCRETE

OLEORESIN

ESSENTIAL OILS

RESINS

RESINOIDS

NATURE LIKE IDENTICALS

SYNTHETIC

ODOUR CLASSIFICATION

FAMILY ADJECTIVES

ADJECTIVES

DAY 3 | 16

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

ALDEHYDIC

FOUND IN NATURE

METALLIC

WAXY

PUNGENT

REMINDS OF IRONBOX SMELL

CLEAN

SOAPY

ANIMALIC

CASTORUM

CIVETTE(UNPLEASANT CAT LIKE SMELL)

COSTUS

INDOLE(NAPTHALENE)

PHENYL ACETIC ACID

OUD

ANISIC

KITCHEN SPICES

ANGELICA ROOTS

ANISEED, BASIL, CORIANDER, CELERY, CUMIN, FENNEL MAR-

JORAM OIL

ANETHOL

1. 2. 3.

BASE NOTES TOP NOTES

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

DAY 3 | 17

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

AROMATIC

MOSTLY MEDITTERANEAN

AROMOISE OIL

EUCALYPTUS(VICKS)

LAUREL LEAF

LAVANDIN OIL(LAVENDER + EUCALYPTUS)

LAVENDER(FLORAL, DIRTY SOIL)

MYRTLE

ROSEMARY OIL

BALSAMIC/AMBERY

RESINS AND GUMS

SWEET AND FRESH

PERU BALSAM (VANILLA BUD LIKE)

CISTUS(CHYAVANPRASH)

ELEMI(PEPPERY)

FRANKINCENSE

LABDANUM(LEATHERY)

MYRHH(BURNT TYRES, PLAS-TIC GLOVES)

OPONAX (PINE NUTS SWEET)

TONKA BEAN

COUMARIN

CITRUS

BERGAMOT OIL

CITRONELLA OIL

GRAPEFRUIT PINK(BITTER/SULFURIC/SOUR)

LEMON OIL

LIME OIL(COCA COLA)

MANDARIN OIL

ORANGE OIL(SWEETER THAN GRAPEFRUIT)

PETIT GRAIN

4.

5.

6.

TOP NOTES

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

BASE NOTES TOP NOTES

DAY 3 | 18

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

EDIBLE (FOOD GRADE)

VANILLIN

VANILLA

MALTOL (COTTON CANDY)

CACAO

TAKAM BEANS (DAIRY MILK)

FLORAL: NATURAL + AROMA CHEMICAL (BIGGEST FAMILY)

ROSE ESSENTIAL OIL(GREEN, NATURAL, ARTI-

CHOKE LIKE, VERY DIFFERENT FROM FLOWER)

ROSE ABSOLUTE(SMELLS MORE LIKE FLOWER)

GERANIUM(CITRONELLA, MASCULINE)

YLANG(BANANA, TIGER BALM,

VINTAGE PERFUMES, SPICY CLOVE)

ORANGE BLOSSOM(NEROLI, FRESH, FRUITY)

7.

8.

TOP NOTESBASE NOTES

TUBEROSE ABSOLUTE(LACTOSE, SPICY, GREEN,

COCONUT)

MIMOSA(SWEET, GREEN, CHERRY LIKE,COUMARIN, FRESH, POWDERY)

CARNATIONS(ROSE+CLOVE, USED IN KENZ0)

ROMAN CHAMOMILE(FRUITY, HAYLIKE, LEATHERY)

DAVANA ESSENTIAL OIL(MARIGOLD, SANGRIA, FRUITY,

WOODY, RED FRUITS)

OSMANTHUS (APRICOTS)

DAY 3 | 19

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

FRUITY (ALMOST NO ESSENTIAL OIL, ONLY JUICE)

GAMMA NONALATTONE(COCONUT, CREAMY, WHITE

TUBEROSE)

GAMMA DECALATTONE(PEACH + APRICOT)

ALDEHYDE C16(STRAWBERRY)

ETHYL BUTYRRATE(BUBBLEGUM + SUGAR)

RASPBERRY KETONE

MELANOX

ACETATE ISOAMYL

GREEN

BLACK CURRANT

GALBANUM (PUNGENT, GREEN, MASCULINE)

MATE(TEA, COUMARIN, WOODY,

GRASSY)

TAGETE ABSOLUTE

VIOLET LEAVES(FOREST, SOIL, MUSHROOMS)

CIS 3 ESENOLO(FRESH CUT GRASS)

9. 10.

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

TOP NOTES

ALLYL CAPORATE(PINEAPPLE)

CASSIS(PASSION FRUIT, MANGO, GUA-

VA, PAPAYA)

WATERY (WATERMELON + MELON)

GREEN(APPLE + PEAR)

YELLOW(PINEAPPLE + BANANA)

RED FRUITS

DAY 3 | 20

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

LEATHER

SYNTHETIC EXCEPT BIRCH

CASTOREUM

ISO BUTYL QUINOLENE

BIRCH(SMOKY, BARBEQUE LIKE, CHARCOAL, FIREPLACE)

SUDERAL(LEATHER BAG, WARM)

LEATHER BOLD BASE

MINT

MENTHA ARVENSIS OIL(COLD)

MENTHA PULEGIUM

PEPPERMINT(SWEETER COLD MINT)

L MENTHOL

PENYREOL MINT(BURNT PLAS-TIC + MINT)

MUSK

WOMEN FIND IT DIFFICULT TO SMELL

LONG LASTING

MUSK KETONE(SOAPY, GEN-TLE, CLEAN)

KOVANOL

CIVETTON

MUSK C

11. 12. 13.

TOP NOTESBASE NOTES BASE NOTES

DAY 3 | 21

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

OZONIC

CALONE(SEA BREEZE)

HELIONAL(LIKE THE WHITE OART OF A WATERMELON)

AMBER GREY

OZONIL(FRESH AIR, DUSTY, AIRCRAFT SMELL)

FLORALXON(WATERY, FLORAL, LILY OF

THE VALLEY, HYACINTH)

EVERNILOX

POWDERY

COSMETIC

CARROT SEED OIL

IRIS ABSOLUTE (SMELLS LIKE BLUSH, JOHNSONS BABY

POWDER)

ORRIS OIL

AMBRETTOLIDE

ALPHA IONONE

GAMMA METHYL IONONE(FLORAL POWDERY)

SPICY

BAY LEAVES

NUTMEG(SWEET)

PINK PEPPER

GINGER

CARDAMOM

CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE

EUGENELO

SAFFRON

14. 15. 16.

TOP NOTES HEART NOTES

DAY 3 | 22

3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE

FAMILIES

FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED

WOODY

CEDAR(CLEAN, DRY, PENCIL LIKE)

CHINESE CEDAR(POWDERY, SMOKY)

GUAIACAWOOD(PARAGUAY, SWEET, SMOKY, HONEY, ROSE,

BIRCH)

SANDALWOOD

ROOTY

PATCHOULI

VETIVER(KHUS)

17. 18.

HEART / BASENOTES

DAY 4 AGENDA | 23

14TH SEP

THURSDAY

10.30 AM - 1 PM

Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen

1 PM - 2. 30 PM

Lunch

2.30 PM - 4 PM

Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen

4.1OLFACTIVE COURSE

FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE

DAY 4 | 24

DIFFERENT MOLECULES HAVE DIFFERENT VAPOUR PRESSURE

(HIGHER FRAGRANCE CONCENTRATION IS NEEDED FOR HOTTER COUNTRIES BECAUSE WHEN TEMPERATURE INCREASES EVAPORATION RATE INCREASES)

TOP

HEART

BASE

GREEN, CITRUS, MINT, AROMATIC, ANISIC

FLORAL, SPICY, FRUITY, WOODY

CUMIN

WOODY, MUSKY, POWDERY, BASLAMIC, ANIMALIC, EDIBLE, LEATHERY

UPTO 2 HOURS

2 - 4 HOURS

6 - 4 HOURS

4.1OLFACTIVE COURSE

FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE

DAY 4 | 25

NOTE A SINGLE DISTINCTIVE ODOUR IMPRESSION

ACCORD MULTIPLE NOTES THAT CREATE A PLEASANT ODOUR

DISCORD MULTIPLE NOTES THAT CREATE AN UNPLEASANT ODOUR

4.1OLFACTIVE COURSE

FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE

DAY 4 | 26

DON’T NEED TOO MANY BASE NOTES LIKE MUSK

SOLVENTS: DOWANOL + ALCOHOL DIFFUSES VERY WELL AT THE CORRECT PACE. (30% MINIMUM)

REED DIFFUSERS

VERTICAL SINGULAR NOTES

SOLVENTS: DEP BURNS VERY WELL.

CANDLES

NEED MANY BASE NOTES

SOLVENTS: EPM AND DPG

DETERGENTS

1. Candle sweating is caused because of excess natural essential oils2. Alcohol solvents can ruin plastic bags 3. Sunlight and heat are very bad for fragrances. Products need to be protected in Aluminium if conditions are such.

4.2OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME EVALUATION

DAY 4 | 27

PERFUME EVALUATOR //ORCHESTRA

LEADER

MARKETING TEAM

SALES TEAM

PERFUMERSQUALITY

TEAM

CREATIONMATCHINGSELECTIONREWORKREINFORCEMENT

REGULATORY PROBEMSMARKET KNOWLEDGECOMPETITOR ANALYSISCONSUMER SNIFF TEST ANALYSIS

NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

WWW.FRAGRANTICA.COMHAS THE FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS FOR LEADING PERFUMES

WWW.FRAGRANTICA.COM

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 28

CITRUS

CITRUS

SPICY

AROMATIC

GREEN

WOODY

AQUATIC

FLORAL

DIOR HOMME SPORT

FAN DI FENDI POUR HOMME 2012 (WARM)

EMERIGILDO ZEGNA 2012(LAVENDER + ROSEMARY)

THIERRY MUGLER COLOGNE 2001 UNISEX (CUT GRASS)

STARWALKER MONT BLANC(MASCULINE)

L’EAU PAR KENZO POUR HOMME (YOUNG, ZESTY,

AQUATIC)

JOUR DE HERMES ABSOLUTE

GOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / FATHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 29

FLORAL

CITRUS

SOLIFLORE

WOODY

MUSKY

CHYPRE

SPICY

ALDEHYDIC

D&G LIGHT BLUE

J’ADORE DIOR(JASMINE+FRUITY)

TRESOR LANCOME(WOODY + FLORAL)

ESSENCE NARCISO RODRIGUEZ

STARWALKER MONT BLANC(MASCULINE)

FLOWER BY KENZO(CARNATIONS + CINNAMON)

CHANEL NO. 5

GREEN

MARINE

FRUITY

ELLIE SAAB LE PARFUM

ACQUA DI GIOIA ARMANI(WATERY + FLOWERY)

UNTITLED BYMARTIN MARGELA

GOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / MOTHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 30

ORIENTAL

AROMATIC

WOODY

GREEN

SPICY

EDIBLE

FLORAL

FRUITY

A MEN THIERRY MUGLER

FLOWER BOMB GIVENCHY(VETIVER, AMBER)

ANGEL BY THEIRRY MUGLER(BURNT SUGAR, RED FRUITS)

CAROLINA HERRERA(WHITE FLOWERS, FRUITY)

AMIR OUD: PRX016080 (ROSE, SAF-FRON, AMBER, WOODY)

SHERIDIEN EDT: PRX012891 (MASA-

LA CHAI, CARDAMOM, CLOVE)

VICTORIA EDT:ENDING IN 54 (WHITE

FLOWERS)

GOOD FOR DIWALI COLLECTIONS AS IT HAS TYPICAL INDIAN FRAGRANCE MIXES + STRONGGOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / MOTHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 31

FLORIENTAL

FRUITY

WOODY

SPICY

BOUQUET

POISON

ARMANI CODE

LOLA BY MARC JACOBS

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 32

FRUITY

FLORAL

PARADISO(WATERMELON)

CHERRY ESCADA(RASPBERRY+SWEET AL-MOND + SANDALWOOD)

NINA L’EAU

WOODY

CITRUS

USED PRIMARILY FOR TOILETRIES AND DETERGENTS

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 33

CHYPRE

FRUITY

COCO MADEMOISELLE

NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HER

FLORAL

GOOD FOR MOTHER’S DAY COLLECTIONS AS IT REMINDS YOU OF RESPECTABLE WOMEN.

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 34

FOUGERE

AROMATIC

DRAKKA NOIR

DAVIDOFF COOLWATER

AQUATIC

GOOD FOR MASCULINE FATHERS DAY FRAGRANCES / WEDDING / VALENTINES DAY

1 MILLION PACO ROBANNE

WOODY

4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE

PERFUME GENEOLOGY

DAY 4 | 35

WOODY

SPICY

TERRE D’HERMES(CEDARWOOD, PEPPER,

CINNAMON)

EAU DE MERVIER

FLORAL

END OF PART I