1588 english galleon 2

7/23/2019 1588 English Galleon 2

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English Galleon 1588 Part Two

MastingThe mainmast consists of three birch tapered according to the plans and stained Golden Oak color.The main masthead is comrised of the top, treastletrees beneath the top, and the cap. The lower mast headis squared and slightly tapered, with a smaller squared portion fitting through the cap. Just beneath this squaredpart of the masthead lies the hounds, which consist of 1/8" pieces of basswood fitted to the mast and

rounded somewhat. Sheave holes are cut through the hounds.The trestletrees are built next, made from 1/8" basswood and fitted around the masthead.

The top itself consists of a circular base made from 1/16" basswood with a rectangular hole cut for thetrestletrees and lubber holes. A dozen knees are cut from 1/8" basswood and tapered to a near point, and thenglued in place on the circular top. Seven strips of card are glued from bottom to top of the knees to form thebasket-like enclosure. Wider strips of card form the outside edges against the knees. Then, one last strip of cardwas glued onto these wider strips. Finally, a larger circle that the base was cut out from 1/16" basswood to form

the rail of the basket=like top.The cap at the top of the masthead was cut from a piece of apple wood, fitted with a square hole for the lowermast and a round hole for the lower edge of the topmast. Note that the cap is cut off at exactly the halfway pointof the diameter of the topmast -- the cap does not enclose the topmast.Finally, the topmast masthead is built similar to the lower mast, except it is smaller. The trestletrees are also like

the lower mast, but smaller.A truck is installed on the topgallant mast.

Black areas in the photos were painted with acrylic black paint.


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Three Masts FinishedThe foremast is a duplicate of the mainmast, except it's slightly smaller. The mizzenmast has no top, wooldings,or mast hoops.The wooldings are #5 perle cotton thread, with ten loops each. The mast hoops are 3/32" strips of card paintedtan and glued around the top and bottom of each woolding.

The masts are not yet installed permanently

Deadeyes and Blocks

All deadeyes and blocks are made of basswood and stained Golden Oak.Deadeyes are triangular


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ChainplatesInstead of making metal chainplates, I tried something different. First, I tied rope around the deadeye, formed

an overhand knot, and then glued the knot into the notch for the chainplate. The chainplate itself is cut fromstripsof card, bent to shape, painted black, and then glued to the deadeye knot and to the hull with CA glue. Finally,I drilled very small holes at the 3 locations of bolts on each chainplate, glued very tiny pins into the holes tosimulate the bolts, and then painted the "bolts" black, too.


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Standing RiggingShrouds:All lower shrouds consist of 3 strands of #20 Cebelia cotton thread twisted on a ropewalk to make 0.048" blackrope. The three lashings above the upper deadeye are 0.008" black rope. The deadeye laniards are 0.015" ecru

rope


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Standing Rigging (continued)Except for the bowsprit gammoning and most of the ratlines, all the standing rigging has been finished.Futtock Shrouds: These consist of 0.04" rope tired to the futtock stave on one end with a triangulat deadeye at

the other end, inside the top.Topmast Shrouds: These shrouds are all made from 0.036" rope. The deadeyes are a little smaller than thoseon the lower shrouds. The deadeye laniards consist of 0.035" ecru-colored rope.Main Stay and Fore Stay: Both are made from 0.065" 3-stranded rope twisted on a ropewalk. A pair oftriangular deadeyes is lashed to the foremast and secured to cleats on the mast. This two-part rope is secured to

the bowsprit hook area. The other end is formed with a collar around the mainmast masthead and secured witha small mouse.

Mizzen Stay: This stay is similar to the mainmast stay, except the lower deadeyes are secured to cleats onthe mainmast. The rope size is 0.045".Fore Topmast Stay: The upper portion is secured to the fore topmast masthead with a collar and mouseusing 0.045" rope. The lower part is attached to the bowsprit with a 3/8" fiddle block and two 1/4" single blocks,then belayed to a cleat on the starboard side of the bowsprit.

[/b]Main Topmast Stay: The lower end is secured to the fore masthead with two triangular deadeyeslashed together with a laniard. The upper end is tied to the main topmast masthead with 0.045"rope with a collar and mouse.

Shifting Backstays: The fore and main masts both have shifting backstays secured to thetopmast mastheads with 0.036" rope, along with a 1/4" double block and a 1/4" single block securedto an eyebolt in the channel between the last two shrouds on both masts.Ratlines: All ratlines, which are still in progress, consist of 0.02" rope.


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Ratlines

All shrouds have been rattled down with #40 Cebelia black cotton thread after passing it a few timesthrough beeswax.


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Bowsprit GammoningThis is comprised of a very long piece of 0.036" black rope wrapped round and round the bowsprit and through ahole in the cutwater. It is supported by 3 cleats on the top of the bowsprit.YardsThe galleon has only 6 yards in total. They are made from birch dowels. tapered properly and painted black.


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Rigging to the Lower ForemastHalyards, Lifts, and Truss

All of these items are rigging as shown on zu Mondfeld's rigging diagram, Where his diagram is not clear, Iused James Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of Waras my main source of information.Making the Fore CourseFor the material for the sails, I purchased a couple of yards of what the clerk said was "ballooner" material. Mywife

is my sailmaker. She did all of the hemming and stitching on a sewing machine. All hems consist of doublefoldedmaterial sewn down with a fine stitch. Ironing the folds down before stitching helps immensely. I sewedthe boltrope all around the sail by hand, which consumed two hours in itself. All cringles consist of small loopsof thread stitched into appropriate places around the edge of the boltrope.First, I tried inserting stiff wire into the bottom and sides of the sail, but I was not satisfied with the result. Itlooked too unrealistic.Second, I saturated the sail in equal parts of white glue and water, and let it dry in front of a blowing fan, getting

the billowing by securing ropes to the clews of the sail. After the glue dried, I was rather pleased with theresult, except that it consists of bumpy look.Rigging the Fore Course:

The following lines were rigged to the sail in the following order:Sheets, tacks, braces, clew garnets, leech lines, and bowlines, with each pair of lines belayed according to

zu Mondfeld's belaying diagram.


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Fore TopsailWith this sail, I learned that it is somewhat easier to lash the sail to the yard first, and then do the rest of therigging. I also installed the blocks before lashing the sail to the yard.The various rope were rigging in the following order: Halyard, lifts, sheets, braces, clews lines, and bowlines. To

geta good billow on the sail, I found myself readjusting the sheets, clew lines and bowlines several times.


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Main CourseOther than its size, the main course is quite similar to the fore course for rigging purposes


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Spritsail and Main TopsailThese sails were made and installed somewhat like the rest, following Lees' rigging illustrations and narrative,

and using zu Monfeld's belaying diagram


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THE SHIP IS FINISHEDThe lateen sail, called a bonaventure, has been installed. Rope coils have been installed on the belaying pins.

And, finally, two anchors were installed.She took 325 hours to build from scratch.


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And you are now finished. Sit back and enjoy.

I would like to Dedicate this Practicum toDon Pogue (Alias Zeldazork or ZZ) whose project thiswould have been.

1588 english galleon 2

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