193810 desert magazine 1938 october

The DESERT INN. . O P E N S . .

OCTOBER 15thfor its 30th season

under the original owner-ship and management of

Mrs. Nellie N. Coffman,Earl Coffman andGeorge Roberson.

35 acres with every facility forplay and rest. Finest AmericanPlan accommodations.

Write for "Sands of Time"Address Suite F Desert Inn1 HOUHS I U M IOS ANCIUS

THEDESERT

INN CALIFORNIA

IS IS

no.

TH E

This is the twelfth editionof the monthly DesertMagazine, completing ourfirst year of publication.To the good friends who sub-scribed to the new desert journalbeginning with the first number,this is a friendly reminder thatit is now time to renew sub-scriptions.

To other thousands who havefound the Desert Magazine fillsa long-empty place in their lives,we have back copies to completeyour first year's file.

To all who seek informationabout the Southwest Desert:see the complete Vol 1 in-dex in the last pages of thisedition.

D&tnLm z i n E

P U B L I S H E D A T E L C E N T R O , C A L I F .

We Refund $14.24On Your Meter

Last year we refunded to the pub-lic, in the form of taxes, the equiva-lent of $14.24 for each of our 37,000meters.

In fact, if you had the money wepay in taxes, you could easily paythe electric bills of all our residentialcustomers five months a year.

Many people overlook the hugetax payments of power companies.Municipal power systems pay notaxes, but are usually tax eaters.

Your (axes would be higher if it were netfor the large refunds from

your power company.

NEVADA-CALIFORNIAElectric Corporation

Boulder Dam . . . . All American Canal Power

CREED OF THE DESERTBY JUNE LE MERT PAXTON

Beyond the range called CalicoLie secrets the world will never

know;Secrets the hills withhold from

view,Secrets the rocks don't tell to you.

D E S E R T

Civic groups in the desert area areinvited to use this column for announc-ing fairs, rodeos, conventions and otherevents which have more than local in-terest. Copy must reach the Desert Mag-azine by the 5th of the month preced-ing publication. There is no charge forthese announcements.

SEPT. 29-30 — Bi-State fair atClovis, New Mexico.

SEPT. 30—St. Jerome's Day. SanGeronimo festival at Taos, NewMexico.

SEPT. 30 to OCT. 2 — Annualrodeo at Tularosa, New Mexico.

OCT. 1-30—Open deer season inNevada in all counties exceptWashoe.

OCT. 1—Heard museum at Phoenix to reopen for the season.

OCT. 6-9 — Santa Cruz, Arizona,county fair and rodeo.

OCT. 7-8—Alfalfa Festival at Lan-caster, California. Tom Foley,chairman.

OCT. 9-16—New Mexico state fairat Albuquerque.

OCT. 14-16—Fifth annual Non-professional rodeo at Victorville,California.

OCT. 15—Forty-five-day dove hunt-ing season in California ends.

OCT. 15 to NOV. 28—Duck hunt-ing season in California and Ne-vada.

OCT. 24-27 — American Miningcongress at Ambassador hotel,Los Angeles.

OCT. 25 — Dedication of monu-ment at spot where first airplanelanded at Yuma, Arizona.

OCT. 26 to NOV. 13—Tentativedates for non-commercial pho-tographers' contest at Museum ofNorthern Arizona, Flagstaff.

OCT. 29-30—Second annual Mo-jave Gold Rush at Mojave, Cali-fornia.

Vol.1 OCTOBER, 1938 No. 12

COVERCALENDARLETTERSPHOTOGRAPHYPERSONALITY

TRAVELOG

GEMS

GARDENS

RECREATION

CAMERA ART

PERSONALITY

WEATHERSPORTSHISTORY

CONTESTMININGTALL TALES

LANDMARKSBOOKSPOETRY

NEWSPLACE NAMESINDEXCOMMENT

Monument Peak, California, Photo by Will N. Fox

October events on the desert 1

From readers of the Desert Magazine . . . . 2

Contest prize winning pictures 3

White Mountain Smith of the Petrified ForestBy ADRIAN HOWARD 4

Odessa Canyon in the CalicosBy CORA L. KEAGLE 8

"Rock That Looks Like Ice"By JOHN W. HILTON 10

Tropics in Your YardBy JAMES GERRALD 12

On the Trail to HavasupaiBy JULIET OSBORN 14

"Feel" of the DesertPhoto by WM. M. PENNINGTON 18

Sykes, of the American DesertBy J. WILSON McKENNEY 19

Temperature reports 20

Ridin' for Fun—at Victorville 21

Mystery Sea of the DesertBy TOM HUGHES 22

Prize photo announcement 23

Brief notes on desert mine operations . . . . 24

Prize winning hot weather storyBy WILL STRONG 25

Who can identify this picture? 27

Reviews of past and present books of the desert . 28

The Desert Waits, and other poems 29

Here and There on the Desert 30

Compiled by TRACY M. SCOTT 32

Reference index for Vol. 1, Nos. 1 to 12 . . . . 3 3

Just Between You and Me, by the Editor . Third Cover

The Desert Magazine is published monthly by the Desert Publishing Company, 597State Street, El Centro, California. Entered as second class matter October 11, 1937 at thepost office at El Centro, California, under the Act of March 3, 1879.

Title registered No. 358865 in U. S. Patent Office, and contents copyrighted 1938 bythe Desert Publishing Company. Permission to reproduce contents must be secured fromthe editor in writing. Subscription rate $2.50 per year in U. S. A. or possessions. Singlecopy 25 cents.

RANDALL HENDERSON, EditorTAZEWELL H. LAMB, Associate Editor

J. WILSON McKENNEY, Business ManagerManuscripts and photographs submitted must be accompanied by full return postage.

The Desert Magazine assumes no responsibility for damage or loss of manuscripts or photo-graphs although due care will be exercised for their safety. Subscribers should send noticeof change of address to the circulation department by the fifth of the month preceding issue.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8

San Bernardino, California.Dear Desert Magazine:

I am so delighted to have you send methe lovely file for my first volume of myDesert Magazine and wish to thank youvery much.

During the week-end there were 30visitors to the Baldy Mesa game farm;each one in turn looking over my maga-zines. I no longer have to hold my breathwhile they look at them. They are so safein their nice cover.

I shall always try to get my friends tosubscribe for the magazine, for the pleas-ure it will give them, as well as for thebenefit of the magazine. I was pleasedwith a remark I overheard yesterday:"This magazine is going to be in a classwith the Geographic; and is the only oneof its kind I have ever seen."

ETHEL CAUGHLIN.• • •

Mojave, CaliforniaDear Mr. Editor:

I been readin' your magazine eversince you started it. I think it's a goodpaper and I've been proud of you up tonow, but when I read about your "HOTAIR CONTEST" I was plumb disgusted.It's goin' to make a lot of people lie aboutthe weather and give the desert country abad name. You can mark my word, they'sgoin' to be somebody from Death Valleywrite in and say they seen it a hundredand thirty-four in the shade and no shade.Then you'll get another letter fromPhoenix or Needles or someplace aboutfryin' eggs on the sidewalk.

There ain't nothin' lower than aweather liar in my estimation so I'm goin'to tell you about August 2, 1884, thehottest day Mojave ever seen just so you'llhave a record of the truth.

When the sun come up that day, thethermometer rose right with it. Of course,we ain't got no official record of how hotit got because the quicksilver blowed thetop of the thermometer off and run outon the floor. But I'll say this, by eleveno'clock in the mornin' all the electric-light globes in town was melted andhangin' down like icicles. That was in-doors. Outside it was hotter. I seen withmy own eyes a collie dog run across thestreet and get the hair singed right offhim. At one o'clock a man walked out inthe sun with his shirt tore. Before hecould get back in the shade again his hidewas smokin' like he'd been branded.That was Danny O'Brian. He's still gotthe scar on him yet. At two o'clock thewater in the horsetrough was boilin'. Iwouldn't believe it when I seen it so Ithrowed in two eggs and you can believeme when I say we et hard boiled eggs forsupper. At three o'clock it was hotterstill. This is what I done and it's thegospel truth. I held a piece of newspaperin the sun and in ten seconds, by mywatch, it caught fire and I lit my pipe

n

0with it. From then on it began to cooloff but the water in the horsetroughdidn't stop boilin' 'till four o'clock thenext mornin'.

ED. ROCKWELL.• • •

San Jose, CaliforniaDear Sir :-

During the Spring vacation trip of theSouthern California Chapter of the SierraClub under the leadership of Mr. W. A.VanDegrift, we visited southern Arizona,and on our return through El Centro, wewere advised by our leader to stop at theoffice of the Desert Magazine.

I took that opportunity of subscribingto your magazine beginning with thefirst issue, and to date I have been morethan pleased with the contents.

Four years ago I made my first trip intoDeath Valley, repeating the trip two yearslater. The trip into Arizona opened anew area and it is my hope to visit othersections of the southwest in the future.

I find the Desert Magazine a delightfulmeans of getting acquainted with varioussections of the desert country and theirtraditions.

Please continue my subscription.FRANK H. LEWIS.

• • •Yuma, Arizona

Dear Editor:Merely for information, and not to

start an argument, will you please giveme the authority for your spelling of theword malapai in your September num-ber. I know the old desert rats pronounceit that way, but I cannot find such a wordin the dictionary. E D . HAINES.

You are right. It isn't in the dic-tionary that way. Webster gives theword malpais, a compound of thetwo Spanish words mal meaningbad or rough, and pais meaningcountry. In actual usage among des-ert people, however, the name is ap-plied to the mesas and benches cov-ered with small volcanic rock. Thesemesa areas often are as smooth as ifa steam roller had passed over them,crushing the rock into the sand andgravel. Since Americans havechanged the original application ofthe Spanish words, the actual pro-nunciation would seem to be a betterguide for spelling than the originalSpanish, which means somethingdifferent. We are simply guided bythe usage of the old-timers.—Editor.

Brentwood Heights, Calif.Editor, Desert Magazine:

For some time I have wanted to writeto you and congratulate as well as thankyou for the fine magazine you publish. Myreason for thanking you is because theDesert Magazine has opened up a newand pleasant pastime for me. I have fol-lowed Mr. Hilton's articles with such in-terest that I have set up a polishing out-fit to work on some of the minerals Ifound by following his directions. Notonly has your magazine introduced me tothis fascinating hobby, but has introducedto me many wonderful places on the des-ert to visit as various vacations come up.

GRAHAM NELSON.

Bakersfield, CaliforniaDear Mr. Henderson:

I wish to congratulate you for youibeautiful tribute to Padre Garces in youreditorial of the DESERT MAGAZINEand to pat Arthur Woodward on the backfor his splendid human characterizationof the great Padre of the desert.

As you probably know, Garces crossedthe Kern river, on May 1, 1776 andnamed it the Rio de San Felipe. He is thefirst recorded white man on the Kern,and on his journey into the Valle de lasTulares (San Joaquin) he was endeavor-ing to find a shorter route from SonoraMexico to Monterey. His guides refusedto go on as the Indian tribes (Yokuts)in the valley were fighting and his sup-ply of beads and tobacco used to gain thefriendship of the Indians had given out,so he was forced to turn back after goingas far north as White River in Tularecounty. The journey was made especiallydangerous because Spanish deserters hadbeen "bad with the women," and thename Espanol was not held in favor.

On May 7th, on his way south Garcesagain crossed the Kern River, near thepresent site of Bakersfield and named therancheria San Miguel de los Noches elSanto Principe, after one of the patronsof the expedition.

For that reason we are planning to erecta twenty-foot, twenty thousand dollarstatue, on the north side of Bakersfield inGarces Circle. Mr. Woodward has fur-nished us with historical data on the fieldgarb of the Franciscan and the model isconsidered by sculptors to be the finestin the State of California from the angleof artistic values. We hope to have thestatue ready for dedication by May 7th,which will be the anniversary of the 163rdyear since Padre Garces crossed the KernRiver at Bakersfield. Mr. Palo-Kangas,well known Finnish sculpor is doing thework.

We extend a very cordial invitation tobe present if possible.

Best wishes,R. W. LOUDON.

T h e D E S E R T M A G A Z I N E

• • • • " > • • •

White SandsofNew Mexico

A/eat Me^UcaBy N. J. STRUMQUISTDeming, New Mexico

Awarded first prize in theAugust photograph contest ofthe Desert Magazine. Takenwith a 4x5 Speed Graphic,Goerz Dogmar f4.5 lens, stopf22, 1/10 second at 6:30 p.m.Wratten 23A filter used. Pan-chro Press film.

MammillariaBlossoms

By MARY BEALDaggett, California

This photo of the blossom ofMammillaria tetrancista wonsecond prize in the Augustphotograph contest. It wastaken with a Korona camera,panchromatic film, £22, 1/5 sec,Kl filter about noon.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8

WhiteMountainSmithof thePetrified Forest

By ADRIAN HOWARD

" — f" HE stage in front of mine stop-/ ped. A masked man with a

rifle stepped out from behinda tree and ordered, 'This is a holdup.Everybody unload and line up.' Passengersfrom all seven stages lined up and he or-dered one of them to pass the sack andtake up the collection. One fellow gotcracked over the head for holding outand after that you should have seen themoney and watches and rings fly into thatsack!"

"Did he get your money, UncleCharles?" Nine-year-old Bill was breath-less with suspense.

"No, I pulled out my pocketbook andhanded it to him, but he waved it asideand said, 'You keep your money, Driver,you have to work for it just like I do.' "

Bill's Uncle Charles was telling anearly Yellowstone experience, and thesmall boy was lucky, for it is seldom oneof the Old-Timers will reminisce. WhiteMountain Smith (Bill's Uncle Charles)can rarely be induced to travel the backtrail from New Hampshire's Whitemountains, where he earned his nickname,down over Florida beach sands, throughYellowstone of the old days, across toGrand Canyon national park and into theland of stone trees, where he has beensuperintendent of the Petrified Forest forthe past nine years.

He was christened Charles Jerod Smithwhen he opened his eyes in a conservativeold Connecticut village a good manyyears ago. There it was the custom for

Contrary to popular supposition. White Mountain Smith did notderive his nickname from the White mountains of Arizona, but froma range in New Hampshire. He was born in New England, but camewest as soon as he had saved enough money for the trip. He was oneof the first rangers to wear the uniform of the national park service andhas served at Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, and the Petrified Forest,where he is now superintendent. There are both comedy and pathos inthe life of a park ranger—as you will glean from this story of one ofthe veterans in the service.

people to be born, grow up, join thechurch, marry a neighbor girl, raise afamily, follow the same pursuits thefather or grandfather did, die quietly inbeds, and be buried in the family ceme-tery.

Young Charles looked over the cardsand found something lacking in the deal.His elder brother had questioned thatmode of life and slipped away to join thenavy. From China he sent bright coloredshawls and chests of fragrant tea to themother. From England and Spain camebooks and gifts for the younger brother.There was even a small chattering monkeyfrom Brazil that became the householdpet, rather to the disquietude of that staidcommunity!

When the time came for Charles to gohe did not seek the sea. "I wanted to see

the far places in our own country," he ex-plained later.

Visitors at Crawford Notch in theWhite mountains of New Hampshirefound a reliable guide in the tall quietyoung fellow who took them for tripsto the lakes and through the pine forests.Winters found this same lad driving stageon the hard packed sands of Florida'sOrmond Beach, and in his leisure timelearning about the bitterness of wildoranges and the gentle friendliness ofold-time Southern darkies.

Some of the visitors talked aboutYellowstone. It sounded like the sort ofplace he wanted to see. And so, this Con-necticut Yankee counted his money—andheaded west.

There were no rangers in those days,but a troop of cavalry policed Yellow-


stone park, and government scouts policedthe soldiers, who were inclined to getlost in the vast wilderness, and too, theysometimes forgot that soldiers were sup-posed to uphold the law, not break it.After White Mountain drove stagecoachfor some time he found himself a com-missioned government scout. But beforehe earned that distinction he had beenover practically every road and trail inthe park, and had been present at a fewholdups, which were not infrequent be-fore automobiles were permitted on parkroads.

Government scouts had many of theduties of present day rangers. Theypatrolled the park boundaries on thelookout for poachers; helped any travel-ers who needed aid; looked after theherds of wild animals driven by snowfrom their mountain range down into thevalleys; fought forest fires and did generalpolice duty.

So the time passed until the national

park rangers were organized. WhiteMountain was one of the very first towear the uniform of the national parkservice. There was little change in hisduties. In the summer he gave informa-tion and directions to the ever increasinghorde of tourists. In winter he patrolledon snow shoes and skis and looked forpoachers. Once he found an elk quarteredand hanging in a tree. For three below-zero days he laid in wait for the killerand when he appeared to get his meat, hefound himself confronted by one of thoseinfernal rangers! A hundred and fiftymiles of snow lay between him and theseat of justice so he probably felt prettysafe. But at the ranger's cabin he foundhimself on one end of a telephone lineand Judge Meldrum on the other."Seventy-five dollars fine, and you'll beescorted out of the park by the ranger!"

Ranger Life ExcitingOne was never bored by ranger life.

Among the visitors were plenty of pretty

girls ready to dance in the evenings, andthe hotels hired several young lady en-tertainers, if the rangers had time to beentertained. Mostly, however, in the sum-mer time they were busy hunting lostdudes, or putting out forest fires kindledby careless campers, or escorting import-ant personages into hard-to-reach fishingstreams. More than once gruff old Emer-son Hough dropped in and demanded thecompany of White Mountain on his fish-ing expeditions. Now and then it wasnecessary to rescue a tourist treed by abear, or discourage a semi-tame elk benton getting too personal with guests.

Sometimes there were disagreeableduties to perform, like shooting the poorgrizzly that got a gallon can fastened ona paw, and it was so swollen and painfulhe became a menace. There was anotherincident connected with a bear. WhiteMountain would rather forget about it,but anyway a funny-faced little brownbear kept visiting the garbage barrel each

From lush tropical swamp to a desert forest of petrifiedu'ood. Here is a scientist's concept of four stages in the evo-lutionary process covering perhaps 150 to 180 million years.

(1) The original Forest (2) was gradually buried (3) thenuplifted (4) and finally exposed by erosion as it is foundtoday on the northern Arizona plateau.

night and making a general nuisance ofhimself. The garbage container belongedto White Mountain's cabin and he tookthe matter as a personal insult. Armedwith a husky barrel stave he hid behinda tree. The moon went behind a cloudjust as the bear shuffled along and buriedhis head in the barrel. The exposed rearend presented a perfect target and theavenger landed the stave on it with sev-eral soul-satisfying resounding whacks.Out of the barrel came an angry grizzlywhose sense of humor was taking a va-cation. White Mountain never has madepublic the official record he established inhis sprint for safety!

Ranger cabins were 20 miles or soapart, and six months of each year inYellowstone all patrols were made onskis or snowshoes. In the early fall, foodsupplies for the winter months werestored away in each cabin. Phonographrecords guaranteed to teach shorthand insix lessons, love songs warbled by JohnMcCormack or Ada Jones, depending onthe individual taste of the ranger, werepacked in. Plenty of reading matter, pop-corn and hard candy to help pass longevenings were close at hand. WhiteMountain was all set for the winter of1919 when he received an appointmentas chief ranger at Grand Canyon national

park. He looked at his well worn snowshoes in the corner. Four days later hediscarded them at the railroad station,without courtesy of farewell.

In 1920 Grand Canyon was not morethan half civilized. Bright Angel Trailwas more or less of an adventure. Whenone reached the river and desired to crossto the other side, he permitted himself tobe lashed into a crude sort of chair andswung out over the sullen brown floodby means of cables. The first suspensionbridge was built the spring White Moun-tain went there, and while most of thematerial could be taken down on packmules it was necessary to carry the longcables with man force. White Mountainwas in charge of that job and duly carriedhis share of the load.

Those years were busy ones, passingswiftly. When a director of national parkswas asked about the spare time of rangers,there was little sarcasm in his answer:"After the tourists have been directed tohotels or camps and out of the way forthe night, then the rangers look after thewater supply, see that the electric lightsare working, that wild animals are notbeing molested or molesting anybody.They check up on the telephone and tele-graph lines. They round up any vandalsfound carving their initials alongside

Numerous fossils found in thePetrified Forest area have aidedscientists in determining the evo-lutionary processes which have takenplace here during a period cover-ing millions of years.

thousand-year-old pictographs. If a sur-prise shipment of fish has arrived it isplanted in the nearest lake or river, ifany. And then if no venturesome dudesare lost on mountain or trail they sweepand dust the museum ready to open atdaybreak the next morning, and thentheir time is all their own!"

That list of duties only halfway coversthe accomplishments of the "Old-Timers"of which White Mountain is a chartermember. Before the day of the specialist,such as historian, geologist or naturalist,every ranger was a sort of folding com-bination of all those things. He also hadto have a working knowledge of wood-craft, camping, cooking, and horseman-ship. He must be able to set a broken leg,or build a coffin, should death overtakesome unfortunate far from headquarters.All of these things White MountainSmith can do and has done. And hisknowledge came in handy when he wassent as superintendent to the PetrifiedForest national monument 200 milessoutheast of the Grand Canyon.

Tourists who acclaim the beautiful mu-seum they see today should have seenthousands of dollars worth of valuablespecimens housed in a shack that musthave cost close to $200.00. Theydrink deeply at the fountains provided ateach checking station, and have no knowl-edge of the days when one small springhidden away under a cliff furnished allthe available water for the Forest. And itwas eight miles from the houses! Theyroll swiftly over miles of smooth pave-ment and know nothing of the hundredsof cars that have been stuck in blow sand,or marooned by seasonal floods, beforebridges were built and roads paved.

One does not say that White Mountainsinglehanded has wrought all the changesthat are seen today, but under his guid-ance hundreds of thousands of interestedpeople have traveled through the Forestand have turned the spotlight of publicinterest on this Arizona beauty spot.Senators, who have the power to bestowor withhold funds, have visited the placeand returned with their friends. The greatEinstein stopped for a hour and remainedfor a day, leaving the famous Theory toshift for itself while its father askedchildlike questions about everything hesaw. When he returned to Germany he

"Newspaper Rock" bearing thesymbols of a prehistoric Indian raceis one of the interesting features ofthe Petrified Forest monument.

•wrote a letter saying the petrified woodwas the most interesting thing he saw inAmerica, and he inclosed an autographedphotograph of himself for White Moun-tain.

Years of protecting wild creatures inYellowstone gave White Mountain a lovefor all helpless animals. Forty squaremiles of the Forest were fenced off forexclusive use of the native antelope.Water was provided by specially con-structed tanks, and close to the road whichruns through their refuge placid mothersand their dainty kids feed and play, hav-ing no fear of the swarms of touristspassing by. Rabbits and birds are fed inthe superintendent's patio when snow isdeep, and every live thing is protected.Old Pancho, a battlescarred bull snake,slides serenely over petrified logs at head-quarters knowing that since he harmsnothing, he will not be harmed.

A park superintendent must be pre-pared for all emergencies and WhiteMountain is no exception. "You areelected president of our Rotary Club,"and White Mountain serves his term.

From a great mission school a hundredmiles distant comes this plea: "Ourstudents would like to have you talk tothem!" For two hours he keeps the in-terest of Indians packed like sardines inthe big hall.

Takes to Pulpit"Will you take charge of the services

for me this Sunday? I have to leavetown." White Mountain stands in thepulpit and talks to his fellow townsmenabout "Famous Prayers." And, it is said,he plays a wicked hand at poker.

"Come to Hollywood and appear onCecil de Mille's national radio hour. Weare broadcasting 'Petrified Forest' andwant you present." With the famousdirector asking dozens of questions aboutthe real Forest, White Mountain forgetshis studio audience of a thousand, andthe millions of unseen listeners, and has areal nice visit with Mr. de Mille. Tourists,checking into the Petrified Forest, tellrangers they heard the radio talk and itbrought them to Arizona.

Once when a trail foreman was killedin the depths of Grand Canyon, and itwas not possible to bring his body out,White Mountain stood beside the opengrave and recited the Service for theDead. Those things are all in the day'swork of a park superintendent. Alongwith those more serious tasks, day afterday, come the little irritating things. Notlong ago a cartoonist gave his version of"An Hour With Superintendent Smith."

An irate cowman appears in the office."Your engineer made me remove myfence off the Forest. Your antelope andmy cows is all mixed up. What you gonnado?" And then the CWA clerk edges in

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8

with a worried look. " Here's 14 names Iforgot to put on the payroll and I forgethow I come to forget!" From the welldriller's camp a battered driller, "Yes, thewell's full of water, but it's salt, and wehave to pull the casing and we can't be-cause the cable is busted and we are outof gasoline and our chief driller hasmumps!" What else can happen? The lastvisitor wears an ingratiating smile.

"What do you want, Perfecto?""I like you hire my truck and my

nephew and me so we work for you. Andyou lend me seven dollar to buy tire forthe truck, all right, no?"

With a letter in hand, a ranger leansover the desk in a confidential manner."Senator So-and-which's chauffeur is here.The Senator wants you to escort his manover the Monument and let him pick outwhatever wood he wants. Why, Mr.Smith, where are you going?"

"Away from here, to the fartherestplace I can find!"

That's the cartoonist's version, but I'venever yet known one of the Old-Timersto be stampeded, and to my way of think-ing, the Dean of all Old-Timers isWHITE MOUNTAIN SMITH.

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John Daggett and his associ-ates long ago took most of thesilver out of the Calico hills. Butthe bright-hued rocks whichgave this rugged area its nameare still there, and the precipi-tous walls of Odessa canyonform a secluded desert sanctu-ary for those who would escapefor a few hours from the hurly-burly which man chooses to callcivilization. The accompanyingpicture was taken by GlenEdgerton in the Odessa canyon"Narrows."

OdessaCanyonin theCalicos

By CORA L. KEAGLE

f/tl/E Paid ten thousand for theIA/ mine but Nature threw in aW million dollars worth of sil-

ver," enthused John Daggett to his min-ing partner, W. W. Stow, one afternoonback in the 80s, as they stood at the en-trance stope to the Odessa mine high upon the west wall of volcanic Odessa can-yon on the Mojave desert.

Stow had most of the money in thepartnership. Daggett was younger, asilver tongued lawyer of flashing person-ality. Their Odessa venture cleaned upmillions and sent Daggett into politics.He became lieutenant-governor of Cali-fornia.

The two men sat until twilight, watch-ing the shadows creep over the riotouscolors in the mineral stained east wall ofthe canyon as the flaming desert sunsetfaded behind the hills. They saw deSalier, the mine superintendent, on hiswhite horse, picking his way down therock tumbled path until he disappearedat an abrupt turn in the canyon's course.

"The next move is to get an ore road

built out there to the new railroad," andDaggett pointed to the south where theterminus of the road he planned was laternamed "Daggett" and became the ship-ping point for the millions in silver oretaken from Odessa in the next ten years.It was this road planned by Daggett morethan 50 years ago, and built with the helpof "Uncle Billy" Raymond and other mineowners, that opened to the public theunique beauty of Odessa canyon. But to-day motorists speeding along the levelstretches of highway east of Barstow,California, often pass, unaware, this near-by wonderland hidden in the heart of theCalico hills.

Early miners to whom the word Calicosymbolized beauty and the missing ele-

ment of feminine companionship, first

gave this name to the color splotchedhills.

A modest road sign on Highway 91indicates a dirt road leading across thedry bed of Calico lake. It looks flat anduninteresting but if you follow your nosefor three miles or so you will find your-self rather suddenly at the awe inspiringentrance to Odessa canyon.

The towering walls of tumbled, multi-colored rock enclose a canyon so narrowin places that every turn seems the endof the road that threads its way along thebottom. While the road is fairly level theshort, sharp turns make the speed cautionsigns amusing.

Originally a mere crack in the lavahills, the canyon has gradually been wid-ened by the erosion of water and by the


blasting of miners during the ore produc-ing era at the turn of the century.

Chaotic upheaval created Odessa can-yon. In places it seems the work of anangry god who wreaked his vengeance onthe hills and then hurled pots of pigmentagainst them.

Whether the traveler be nature lover,miner, geologist or historian, the canyonspeaks his language.

To the geologist a story is clearly re-vealed that includes a period under thesea, a rainy, semi-tropical age when thethree-toed horse pranced in the clay alongthe shores of fresh water lakes, then aseries of convulsions, upheavals and vol-canoes which formed these strangely con-torted mountain ranges. Clay strata havebeen burned to clinker hardness andstained with iron. In places the stratifiedlayers of brown and cream are turned onedge like a tipsy layer cake. There areformations of tuff, breccia, intrusive an-desite and rhyolite.

The collector will be lured by this"Jewel Box of the World" where he maystill pick up specimens of opal, malachite,jasper and turquoise. Borax-bearing bedsof the ancient seas have been tipped onedge. ITalf way through the canyon areto be seen the crumbling remains of the

great scaffolding which once supportedthe chute from Daggett's mine, downwhich tumbled the rich ore. The minestope may be reached by a narrow trailwhere the splendid view is ample rewardfor the half-mile climb.

The historian will find in the vicinitya wealth of material, beginning with thedays when, for 50 years, miners passedfrom Santa Fe to Los Angeles along thefoot of the canyon, uninterested, deemingit folly to look for precious metal in vol-canic rock. He will want to visit the"ghost" mining settlements near by,sites once humming with activity.

This region furnished much of thebackground for the volume, "The Des-ert," by J. C. Van Dyke, author and artcritic. His nephew, Judge Dix Van Dyke,who has spent years in the district says itshistory may be likened to a tattered oldbook from which many pages are missingand parts of others more or less torn,blurred and indecipherable.

Today the mineral fortune of Odessacanyon and the Calicos is gone, or nearlyso. But for those who seek the less tangi-ble values of precipitous canyon wallsand the coloring of a rugged desert land-scape there will always be wealth in theCalico hills.

ENGINEERS STUDY PLANSFOR FIVE-ACRE-TRACT LAW

Accompanied by representatives of theGeneral Land office at Washington, D.C.,A. C. Horton, district engineer, spentthe last week in August making a surveyof the desert Southwest preparatory tothe issuance of regulations governing thesale and lease of public land under thenew five-acre-tract law passed by the lastcongress.

The Land office group spent two daysalong the desert sector of the Metropoli-tan aqueduct considering the feasibilityof making lands adjacent to the big con-duit available for five-acre homesteaders.

Members of the committee declined tomake any public statement, asserting theywere in the Southwest merely for thepurpose of gathering information. Theirreport will be made direct to Commis-sioner Johnson of the General Landoffice. It was intimated that some timemay elapse before full details of the newland program are made public.

The act authorizes the Secretary of In-terior to sell or lease to any citizen 21years of age five acres of vacant unre-served public land as a home, cabin, camp,health, convalescent, recreational or busi-ness site.

FZI CflLICO MTS. " — _ - -

: > ^ " % ; - — - BISMARK*

FROMBARSTOW

•=•=?- _4f\__ i

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3

"Rock That Looks Like Ice"By JOHN W. HILTON

r HE room was gloomyand mysterious, furnishedwith weird oriental dec-

orations and filled with the odorof incense. The single small light hungdirectly over a tiny table and reflectedfrom the radiant surface of a crystal ball."I see here in the crystal - - - " dronedthe voice of the fortune teller, and thelight flashed fitfully from the beadsaround the neck of her customer as shestirred nervously.

"Foolishness" you may say, and per-haps with good reason; yet every yearthousands upon thousands of dollars arespent by people for the privilege of hear-ing what some other person professes tosee in a ball of crystal. This is by no meansa fad of the moment but dates almostas far as does the fortune telling itself.Thousands of these crystal balls are beingmanufactured yearly as are great quanti-ties of crystal beads such as the fortuneteller's customer was wearing.

You might ask what have such thingsto do with the desert?

A great deal, in fact. For, althoughboth the wearer and the gazer may be-lieve that the crystals came from theorient they are more likely to have origi-nated in the desert sections of Nevada,California or Arizona. Japan still pro-duces a few crystals of quartz but by farthe largest part used in the manufacture

Quartz crystals are found in many placeson the desert. Prospectors do not attach muchvalue to them, and yet they have a widespreaduse in commerce and science. In the accom-panying text John Hilton suggests some of themarkets for these crystals, and gives tips foridentifying them.

of beads and balls comes from Brazil,Madagascar, or the United States.

If you buy a genuine crystal necklaceat your local jewelry or department storeit may bear the label made in Japan,Czechoslovakia, Germany or China, butyour own desert community may have pro-duced the material. There are few coun-ties in the desert that do not have somepoint known as Crystal butte, Crystalhill or Crystal peak. The majority of thesederive their names from the presence ofquartz crystal in one form or other.

In buying articles made of crystal yourattention is usually called to how coldthe crystal feels to the skin.

"Just hold it against your cheek," thesaleslady will say. "Feel how cold it is.That proves it is real crystal." It is a factthat quartz crystal has the ability to re-main cool longer than most substances.To an expert there is a "feel" about crys-tal that identifies it, but it is unlikelythat either the average sales girl or cus-tomer could tell crystal from glass by thismethod. A better way is to ask permissionto test the beads for hardness, with an or-dinary finger nail file. If the crystals aregenuine a light scratch across the edgewill leave no mark but if they are glass

they will mark easily. The hard-ness of crystal is seven in thescale, considerably above that ofa finger nail file.

This quality of seeming cold in crystal,especially in large pieces of it, led to thebelief by the early Romans that quartzwas ice that had frozen so hard it couldnever melt. Because of this belief crystalwas used to relieve fever and its anti-py-retic value was attested by writers onmedical subjects up to a surprisingly re-cent date.

Crystal is prized as a fetish by some ofour desert Indians today and medicinemen use small bits of it in mysteriousrites. It is odd that several tribal wordsfor crystal when translated literally mean"rock that looks like ice."

Although the old type of crystal gaz-ing still flourishes, a new sort is fast tak-ing hold. Astronomers have discoveredthat melted crystals form one of the bestknown reflectors for huge telescopes,through which they look out into spaceand tell us things that even the mostcredulous would refuse to believe fromthe old type of crystal gazer.

Doctors are using quartz crystal morethan ever before. However, they have dis-carded the idea of curing fevers by itsapplication. Science with the aid of fusedcrystal has given them such tools as theultra-violet and infra-red rays which have

10 T h e D E S E R T M A G A Z I N E

worked wonders beyond the dreams ofthe most imaginative.

In radio and television and in manyother industries quartz crystals are used.

Desert dwellers and prospectors shouldkeep on the lookout for possible depositsthat might produce crystal.

Aside from its value in jewelry and thearts, scientific and commercial use mayextend the market to where the miningof crystal will become a major desert in-dustry.

For some reason there has been a gen-eral belief that crystal is practically value-less. Miners often refer to it as watercrystal, or rock crystal, and tell you thatalthough it is pretty it has no value. Sincecrystal is a pure form of quartz which inturn is the basic ledge matter in mostmetal mines, it is not uncommon for it tobe encountered in the normal operationof gold mines or other such projects ohthe desert.

The United States navy has done agreat deal to inform people of the valueof large crystals. The navy uses a con-siderable amount of this mineral in itsoptical form for precision sighting in-struments. Even with this informationavailable, I have little doubt there aremany hundreds of pounds of fine crystalsthrown over dumps or ground up in min-ing machinery.

Another type of deposit likely to pro-duce quantities of crystals on the desert isthe pegmatite vein. This formation isusually found in countries where granitespredominate. The pegmatite veins ap-pear as light streaks cutting through thedarker granite hills and can be distin-guished by the coarseness of their struc-ture. They are composed mainly of theassociated minerals found in the granite,such as quartz, feldspar, and mica. Theseminerals have been dissolved by extreme-ly hot water working toward the sur-face through cracks in the granite bed-rock and have been redeposited in largerand purer masses. Along the centers ofsome of these veins occur pockets whichalmost invariably carry quartz crystalsand in many cases other gems such astourmalines, topaz, essonite garnets andberyl.

Since pegmatites rarely if ever containprecious metals there has been little pros-pecting done for them. From the point ofpure enjoyment, I can recommend noother form of prospecting as highly as thesearch for crystal and its associated min-erals.

This summer I have been working anold gem mine for crystals and although upto date the financial returns have beensmall the benefits of an interesting occu-

Interior of a crystal mine. As theminer must follow the pocket areathe tunnels usually are quite crooked.

Some quartz crystals, such as these,are dark when found and are cut andsold under the trade name of "smokytopaz." Or they may be bleached byslow heating to a colorless crystal.

pation out in the open have more thanrepaid me. There are few thrills that equalthe breath-taking suspense of opening upa crystal pocket and viewing for the firsttime the beauties that Mother Nature hashidden there.

One of the places where col-lectors may find samples ofquartz crystals is an old pros-pect hole in the Chocolatemountains of Southern Cali-fornia near Beal's well, wherequartz was mined years ago.To reach this point take theNiland road to Beal's well andpark there. The old mine is apit at the side of the arroyo lessthan a mile southeast from thewell. Broken crystals may befound by scratching in thedump.

SAMPLES OF JADE DEPOSITSENT EAST FOR TESTING

According to Conrad Kather, miningengineer who recently reported the find-ing of white jade in San Diego county,the le'dge on his claims is more than 20feet wide. If the stone proves to be truejade its discovery will be of widespreadinterest to gem hunters.

Most Americans think of jade as beinggreen. Actually it takes many colors. Ina partial color spectrum in John Goette's"Jade Lore" 35 different shades are found,ranging from white to almost black.

Samples of Kather's deposit have beensent to the geophysical department of theCarnegie institute for definite classifica-tion.

NEVADA MINE PRODUCESTURQUOISE WORTH $4500

According to the 1937 Minerals year-book prepared by Sydney H. Ball, 545pounds of turquoise valued at $4500were taken from the Snow Storm claimin the Royston district of Nevada byLeland F. Hand. The yearbook reportwhich covers 1936 stated that turquoisealso was mined from the Mildred andMarguerite properties in the Crowsprings district and the Reik mine nearColumbus, Nevada.

Moss and other agate was producedin Montana, jasper in California, agatizedwood in Arizona and iridescent obsidianin Modoc county, California, the reportcontinues. Considerable quartz "was minedin the Black Hills of South Dakota, whilea three-fourth of a carat diamond wasfound in Butte county, California.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 11

Exponents of two types of des-ert gardens—tropical vegetationand cactus — differ on the land-scaping values of their respec-tive hobbies. For those who pre-fer luxuriant growth and freshfruit any month in the year therecan be no doubt of their choice.Here is the story of a man whohas grown a distinctive tropicalgarden in his back yard—andhis reasons for preferring it toconventional desert vegetation.

Tropics in Your YardBy JAMES GERRALD

U J J OW take my place—I can pick/ I / fresh fruit any month in the

year. You can see why I prefertropical vegetation to cacti for a desertgarden. Look at that fruit. In the eveningI can entertain guests on the lawn by thefountain. Would a cactus plot make asinviting a rest spot?"

J. C. Archias, seed man and nursery-man of Brawley, California, thus ex-pressed his views bearing on the contro-

12

versy between proponents of the varioustypes of "ideal" desert gardens.

He was showing me his famous backyard at 311 J street. Standing in that lux-uriant little garden paradise I could notdeny that the water-loving plants of thetropics have very convincing points intheir favor when it comes to landscapinga desert home.

A busy man is Archias, but he takestime out from the seed business for onehobby—growing plants in his own yard.He started 15 years ago and some of hisfirst seedlings are now great trees. Hehas added and changed each year until henow has a showplace of variety andcharm.

The garden is a place of informalbeauty, rustic as in nature yet moldedskillfully to fit the planner's purpose.There is a restful glade filled with deepshade, the sound of running water, theglint of patterned sunlight on the lilypond, the smell of sweet growing plants.A winding path leads from the drive-way under trees and arbors to a patch ofopen lawn where comfortable chairs arean invitation to visitors. A small stonebridge crosses the pond and a path be-yond extends to the door of a screenedsummer house. Here is a natural outdoorhome—living-room, bedroom, and pantry.

As dusk turns to darkness, Archiasswitches on hidden lights which throw redand blue colors on trailing vines andtransform the fountain to a shower ofjewels which splash with a merry soundon the glistening lily pads and rockery.

More than 700 plants are growing inless than 3000 square feet of groundspace — the 50 by 150-foot lot holds afront lawn, a seven room house, screenhouse, and garage, in addition to thegarden. Some of the plants are tall vet-eran trees; some are this season's an-nuals. Probably 50 or 60 species are re-presented. Some have long and formid-able names; most of them may be recog-nized by the amateur gardener.

Most useful are the grapefruit trees,which produce sweet fruit nearly everyweek in the year. Of almost equal valueare the grand old grapevines—Thompsonseedless, Red Malaga, Zanti currants, ladyfinger, and Mission—which hand down

/. C. Archias stands beside a bananatree in his back-yard, one of 60species of tropical plants he hasgrown on a city lot.


their luscious fruit from June until De-cember.

Valencia oranges come in the springmonths, navels come in December, lemonsin November. Quince is ripe in early fall.Delicious dates are ready for picking inSeptember and October. Winter Bartlettpears are ready in November, Decemberand January.

Plums and bananas have a short seasonin July, the great Smyrna fig trees beartheir fruit in July and August. In Aprilthe mulberry tree offers tasty pie filling.

Most unusual plant is the banana,which ordinarily does not grow maturefruit in this country. Year-round humidheat is necessary to produce commercialbananas. But this summer Archias' treesput out several bunches of average sizefruit. Given a long summer, the tree willprovide 50 to 100 bananas and becomeone of the best ornamentals for the des-ert garden.

The banana tree has a life cycle of threeyears. The first year it is a sucker sprout,the second year it has grown about 15feet tall, and the third year it producesits fruit, and dies. Meanwhile the parentplant has produced two to six suckersprouts at its base, which continue thecycle. The tree makes a showy display if itis trimmed back each year and protectedfrom frost. In the spring its elephant-ear

In the evening hidden lights floodthe glade and comfortable chairsbeckon visitors to rest beside the lilypond and fountain.

leaves shoot up 12 to 18 inches in 24hours.

Although Archias is an experiencednurseryman, he asserts that any amateurgardener with resourcefulness and pa-tience can build a tropical garden in thedesert. But it takes time. He says it is notan expensive hobby, that all the plantsin his garden could be bought for $50originally.

Some areas in the desert, even thoughwell irrigated, are not suited to growinga thick tropical vegetation. Archias rec-ommends a loamy soil of deep drainage.Sometimes trenching and drilling willhelp drain the hardpan spots, and barn-yard manure or sand will change thecharacter of the soil where desired. Anyfarm advisor or nurseryman can recom-mend a course of soil treatment for bestresults.

"J- C." is surprised that his hobbyshould attract attention. "Anybody cando it," he says. Then he adds, "Andmore people in the desert should growtrees and shrubs. We need more attractiveparks and street trees, as well as homelandscaping. Sticks and stones do notmake a home, but growing things do—trees for background and shade and

shrubs to tie the house down and give itcolor and grace."

In recent years hundreds of visitorshave stopped at the Archias garden, evendistinguished floriculturists from Hol-land, San Salvador, and other foreigncountries. Archias invites visitors, is gladto have them inspect the plants and askquestions.

"What plants should an amateur chooseto start a tropical garden and what con-ditions should govern the planting?" Iasked him.

He pointed out a number of hardyplants, enumerated others which servewell in the basic plan. There are widevariations in southwestern soil, altitude,and climate which have a bearing on theadaptability of a tropical garden. Hissuggestions are primarily for Imperialvalley conditions but may be altered forother parts of the desert.

For trees try Arizona ash, Cocos plum-osa (palm), mulberry, fig, Washing-tonia filifera (palm), Sapota (seedlings),winter Bartlett pear, orange, lemon,•pince, Musa (banana), and Melia (um-brella) .

Shrubs offer a much larger class, in-cluding many sizes and shapes, for trail-ing effects, hedges, blossoms, and filler.Here are some favored species: Abeliagrandiflora, Antigonon leptopus (Rosa de

Continued on page 27

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 13

Al Smith, president of the Hiking Club and leader ofthe Havasupai canyon trek, is caught here under full loadjust before the start of the trip.

MEMBERS OF HIKING PARTY

Members of the party which took the Hava-supai trip described in the accompanying storyby Miss Osborn were: Bettie Dugan, MildredBailey, Olive Lloyd, Anne May, Pete. Thompson,Abel Garcia, Fidel Baca, Woodrow Lewis, FrankMinnick, Michael D'Mura, Bill Miles, P. R. Powers(faculty advisor), Lillian Winn, Delight Power, AlSmith (president and leader), Everett Stiles, Rob-ert Cushman, Joe Russac, Carol Collins, EdnaCordes, Elma Courier, Geraldine Stiles, CamilleHughes, Geraldine Isaacson and Juliet Osborn.

Organized in 1926, the Hiking Club of the Ari-zona State Teachers' College at Flagstaff eachyear goes on a five-day backpack trip, alternat-ing these hikes between Grand Canyon, Rainbownatural bridge and Havasupai canyon. By way oftraining for the annual "long trip" members of theclub spend their weekends during the school yearon shorter jaunts in the vicinity of Flagstaff. MissJuliet Osborn wrote the accompanying story of the1938 hike to Havasupai canyon from her personalexperience as a member of the party.

On the Trailto Havasupa i

By JULIET OSBORN

\ 7 ROM somewhere up along the trail ahead came the/ shrill note of the leader's whistle. That was the signal

to put on our packs. A few minutes later the whistlesounded again and we fell into line—and were off for Hava-supai.

All the food and shelter we were to have during the nextfive days was contained in the packs on our backs. But wewere here of our own choice—and so the prospect of a longdusty trail held no terrors. We had been looking forward andplanning this trip all through the school year, and now wewere eager to be on our way.

There were 25 students in the line that formed on the rimof Havasupai canyon that May morning—members of theHiking Club of the Arizona State Teachers' College at Flag-staff.

We were all supposed to be in fine hiking condition. Dur-ing the school year each of us had covered at least a hundredmiles of cross-country tramping in the vicinity of Flagstaff.We had devoted all our Saturdays and many of our Sundaysto five, ten, 20 and even 30-mile trips. From a motley groupof 35 or 40 at the beginning of the year we had dwindled toa sturdy 25. Now our reward and the test of our fitness wasto be a five-day trip to a remote little Indian village far downin the bottom of one of those scenic gorges which are tribu-tary to the Grand Canyon of Arizona.

Our preparation had begun with the making of packs. Weuse a special back-rack with a piece of canvas stretched tautacross a wooden frame. The boys, by some mysterious processof soaking and tying the wood, made the frames, while thegirls did all the sewing. The total cost was not more than$1.50 for each pack.

But packs were the least of our worries. Planning mealsfor 25 campers for five days, choosing food that is inexpensiveyet tasty and sustaining and not too heavy or bulky, is nosmall problem. Cooking utensils are awkward things tocarry in a backpack—but we must have them.

Each member is responsible for his or her own bedding andclothes. For bedding, the idea is to guess by some divinepower the least number of blankets that will keep one fromfreezing. Of course, the fewer the blankets the lighter theload—but these Arizona nights do get cold.


My pack contained the following:three blankets, pair of tennis shoes, twopairs socks, shirt, two pairs shorts anda bandanna, change of underwear, lightsweater, heavy jacket, towel, bathing suit,small cosmetic bag—and about six tonsof Grape Nuts.

Pajamas? Anyone who wears them ishooted out of countenance.

My wardrobe was more than adequate•—in fact I frequently was in danger ofbeing over dressed. Some of the boys, Ibelieve, did not take a change of clothes.Things can be washed in the creek.

We rode to the rim—150 miles fromFlagstaff—in a truck, over paved road towithin 10 miles of Grand Canyon, thenover 50 miles of the worst road that everwent by that name. There is no use try-ing to describe the discomfort of 25 peo-ple with 25 packs in the back of onetruck.

The truck deposited us in the sagebrush on the rim of Havasupai canyon—girls on one side of the road, men a hun-dred yards away on the other.

At an elevation of 6300 feet the nightsare cool and little campfires were kindledfor both heat and light. Most of us puton all the clothing we had before rollingup in our blankets on the rocky ground.Some went to sleep at once and othersstayed awake to chat, despite the pro-tests of their neighbors. A few were dis-turbed by the fact that they had madetheir beds on anthills, cacti or rocks, orwith their heads downhill. Aside fromthese annoyances and the frigid younghurricanes which kept working into thebedding, it was a perfect night's rest foreveryone.

Before breakfast we were given num-bers which fixed our places in the lineon the trail and at mess time. Each hikerwashed his own dishes and there was aclean-up committee for the pots and pans.Clean-up and cooking committees wereselected by the president and announcedwith the menus previous to each meal.

When Al Smith, president of the cluband leader on the hike, blew his whistlefor the start that first morning the boyswere carrying packs of from 50 to 60pounds each and the girls from 25 to 35pounds. We carried 275 meals on ourbacks.

The distance by trail from the rim toHavasu creek in the bottom of the canyonis seven miles. The first part of the de-scent is steep. By the time we reached themore gradual slope near the bottom of thecanyon the sun was pouring heat downon us and the air between the canyonwalls was oppressive. At noon we werestill plodding along ankle deep in graveland sand—and each of us knew the en-tire 275 meals was in his own pack. Itseemed that the whistle for the noon stopwould never blow.

It was one o'clock when we reached

Navajo jails in Havasupai canyon. The hikers established their camp nearthe creek just above these jails.

the source of Havasu creek. Farther downthe canyon this stream pours a great vol-ume of water over a series of magnificentwaterfalls but the sourcespring of thecreek is not impressive. It consists of aseepage area where the water comes tothe surface and remains in stagnant poolsamong the rocks and pebbles.

At three o'clock we shouldered our

packs again for the three-mile hike toHavasupai village near where our basecamp was to be established. There wewere greeted by Charles Schaeffer, theIndian agent, and after draining his sup-ply of cool drinking water we continuedto our campsite on a bluff overlookingthe beautiful Navajo falls. It is a gorgeousspot but we were too tired and hungry

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 15

NAVAdO %;=: FAILS \yPtrmo'nent

WILLIAMS

that evening to appreciate the beauties ofnature.

After an early breakfast the next morn-ing we started down the canyon to visitthe falls below. First we came to BridalVeil. It is a lovely picture but the memoryof this place has been dimmed somewhatby a grander view which awaited us far-ther down the canyon.

We pushed on through the heavygrowth of shrubbery which sometimesapproached the density of a tropicaljungle. And then we came to Mooneyfalls.

As I stood on the top of that great200-foot cataract I felt that sensationwhich always comes in the presence ofsome titanic work of nature. S u c hmoments as that first vision of Mooneyfalls bring a deep sense of religious awe.It seems almost sacrilegious to attemptto describe such a view—but there is alsothe desire to share such beauty withothers.

The canyon walls rose hundreds of feeton both sides. The regular markings ofthe strata in the cliffs gave the effect ofhuge red bricks, laid in place by someprehistoric race of giants. The afternoonsun brought out their most striking colors.

Mooney falls drops down into a foam-ing pool of blue-green water, and thenthe stream placidly flows on and encirclesa little island covered with a luxuriousgrowth of trees in many different shadesof green. The most impressive thingabout Mooney falls is the coloring, re-

flected to some extent perhaps from theturquoise shading of the water. Havasuin the Indian language means "land ofthe blue-green water."

We scrambled over rocks and throughtunnels and down slides to the foot of thefalls. We could not approach too close,the spray was too heavy, but behindthe falling water there were little fern-hung grottoes. I momentarily expectedPuck or Peter Pan to come tripping outof one of those dark damp mysteriouscaverns.

We left Mooney falls reluctantly toreturn to Bridal Veil where we spent therest of the afternoon swimming andthrowing mudpies.

That evening we sat by the campfireand chatted. I pondered a thought thathad come to me many times along thetrail—what a fine companionship this ex-

MENU ON THE TRAIL

Following is a typical day'smenu during the 5-day outing:

BREAKFAST — Prunes, coldcereal, bacon, syrup, bread,butter, coffee.

LUNCH — Spaghetti, cannedtomatoes, canned corn, jam,bread, butter, coffee.

DINNER — Stew, pork andbeans, rice, peaches, bread,butter, tea.

perience had created among young peo-ple who in the normal life of the schoolhad widely diverse interests. Associationin the great out-of-doors does that forpeople.

Our cooks for the evening were anOklahoma teacher, an ex-cowpuncher,and our college librarian. In the groupwere two Californians—"prune pickers"we called them—two boys from Indiana,numerous Arizonians, and others fromTexas, Florida, New York, Michigan andOld Mexico. They represented everyphase of school life from campus leadersto the most inconspicuous bookworm—some brilliant, some dumb (accordingto the verdict of the profs), big and little,rich and poor. But on the trail and in ourcamp life there was no distinction. Wewere just a band of friendly trail-houndswith one thing in common—the abilityto "take it" and laugh.

I must mention Pete Thompson es-pecially. He is president of the AssociatedMen Students at A. S. T. C. A formercowboy and an experienced outdoor man,Pete was a pillar of strength and goodhumor on this hiking trip. With a half-inch beard, uncombed hair, patchedLevis, an unironed gray shirt and a dis-reputable felt hat, Pete hardly would havequalified for a style parade. But his lineof stories told in most picturesque lan-guage, and a heart as big as all outdoorsmade him a fine companion for such anouting as this.

That evening some of us accepted the


Indian agent's invitation to see the Hav-asupai movies. The picture was "CoveredWagon," presented by the Indian servicefor the entertainment of the Indians. Itwas an outdoor theater and everybody sator lounged on the grass. This was thethird showing of the picture—and thesame audience had been there every night.

A toothless Indian woman beckonedme to come and share her blanket. Shewould look at the screen, clap her handsand then turn and face me, giggling con-fidentially as if we shared an excitingsecret. Before the show was over she laydown on her blanket and went to sleep.Only a few of the Indians understoodEnglish, but they were enthusiastic pa-trons of the show nevertheless.

From Mr. Schaeffer we learned aboutthe Havasupai, Havasuwaipaa, Havasu,Supai or Coconino Indians, as they arevariously called. The reservation wasestablished in 1882 and the tribe numbersabout 200.

Their origin is indefinite, one storybeing that they are the descendants of asmall group of Indians who separatedfrom the Hualpai Indians who now oc-cupy the plateau above.

They are an industrious and hospitablepeople, engaged chiefly in agriculture.Peaches, cherries, squash, corn, and otherfruits and vegetables are grown in littlepatches on the floor of the canyon sur-rounding the village.

Some of them live in houses erected bythe government but many prefer hogansbuilt of logs and mud. Their only com-munication with the outside world isalong the pack-trail over which we hadentered the canyon.

We noted that the agent's house wasfurnished with an electric refrigerator, alarge stove, and a piano, and learned thatthese had been brought down the trailon a sled.

Our last day in the canyon was spenteating, loafing, and swimming. Whennight came and we were packing for anearly morning start there was a forcedgayety that failed to conceal the regretall of us felt that our outing was aboutto end.

Our packs were lighter, but we faced along uphill climb to the rim of the can-yon. The Indians bid us a friendly"Goodbye! Come back next year!" andwe took the homebound trail.

It was a long tiresome journey to thetop. But when we reached the rim andsat down for a last look at our "paradiselost" we knew that the memory of an ex-

With food and shelter for fivedays on their backs the hikers tookthe winding trail from the rim aboveHavasupai canyon. Each member ofthe party wore a number and occu-pied a regular place in the line.

perience so rich in comradeship andbeauty would remain long after theaches were forgotten.

• • •PIMA BASKET TAKES HIGHAWARD AT CEREMONIAL

A Pima Indian basket was awarded thegrand sweepstakes prize among all en-tries at the exhibition held in connectionwith the Gallup, New Mexico, Inter-Tribal Ceremonial. Baskets and potterymade by the Pima, Papago, Apache andMaricopa Indians took seven first and sixsecond places in the Gallup awards.

• • •SEEKS PERMIT TO OPERATE ,BOATS ON LOWER COLORADO

Regular boat trips on the lower Colo-rado river, discontinued nearly 50 yearsago, may be resumed if Charles Sturgesof Yuma gets the franchise he is seeking.

Sturges recently applied to the Yumacounty board of supervisors for a permitto operate between Imperial and Parkerdams, a distance of over 100 miles. Hebelieves that operation of passenger andsightseeing craft is feasible since the flowof the river has been regulated by Boulderdam.

The Yuma supervisors referred him tothe War department, since the Coloradois officially a navigable stream and underthe jurisdiction of the federal govern-ment.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 17

COMMUNICATION Photograph by Wm. M. Pennington

Feel of the DesertBy JOHN STEWART MacCLARY

• 9 N barren Navajoland the native dwellings are far apart. Seldom are\J more than two or three hogans to be found in a single settlement, and

there are neither backyard fences nor party-line telephones across whichgossip may be traded.

But every human being feels the need for communication with his fellowsand the Navajo Indians are no exception to the rule.

Time was when communication in the Navajo country was limited.Hurried news of importance might be flashed by smoke signals or carried bymounted messengers like the one in this Pennington photograph. And gossipwas exchanged when groups collected for ceremonial dances.

Today the reservation is criss-crossed with passable roads and netted withtelephone lines installed by Uncle Sam—but the tribal news that is intendedonly for Navajo ears still spreads from hogan to hogan by way of the Indianand his pony.


Not all the frontiersmen whoplayed leading roles in the de-velopment of the Southwest weretwo-gun sheriffs and bold ban-dits. In a brown stone house onthe outskirts of Tucson lives aquiet little man whose scientificstudies in the lower Coloradoriver basin and on the Arizonaand Sonora deserts during thelast half century have led toenough adventures to fill athrilling volume. Godfrey Sykesis one of the outstanding person-alities on the American deserttoday—but because he is a verymodest man, the world at largeknows little about his exploits.Readers of the Desert Magazinewill enjoy meeting this man.

By J. WILSON McKENNEY

ODFREY SYKES was 64 yearsold in the summer of 1925 when

he drove an old car on the Caminodel Diablo west from Ajo, Ari-

zona. Stuck in the sand, he labored bare-headed to free the car while his ther-mometer recorded 115 degrees. He notedthe temperature of the water with whichhe rinsed his mouth, counted his pulsebefore and after each attack with theshovel, jotted down the time and condi-tions when he came near collapse, andkept a record of exactly the amount ofwater he required.

This man, described by his friends as"a paragon of virtues and a model scien-tist of the desert," summarized his find-ings on human resistance to extreme heatin a paper for the American Geographi-cal Society in 1927. Where hundreds ofother men in the same circumstanceswould have wandered panic-stricken totheir deaths, Sykes was "cool" in a desert

Godfrey Sykes, veteran geographer of the desert, beside the ancient wagon inwhich he camped on the site of El Centro in 1905.

inferno. Self-sufficiency is in evidencethroughout the record of Sykes' active andthrilling life in the desert southwest.

Godfrey Sykes is living now in a brownstone house on the outskirts of Tucson,within a half-mile of the Carnegie Institu-tion's Desert Laboratory. He retired fromthe Institution in 1929 but at 77 years ofage he is still active in research and writ-ing.

Among scientists he is best known asa geographer and authority on the Colo-rado river. But his list of vocations alsoincludes cowboy, freighter, railroad man,civil, mechanical, and metallurgical engi-

neer, cartographer, hydrographer, and all-around handy man.

Late in 1937 the Carnegie Institutionand the American Geographical Societypublished a 193-page book by Sykes en-titled The Colorado Delta. Represent-ing the summary of his 45 years' study ofthe turgid stream and its bed, most of itwill be passed over lightly by the averagelayman. But it embodies much authentichuman and natural history, valuable dataon stream dynamics, and keen observa-tion of a river's temper. It is an impor-tant contribution to our knowledge of aheretofore little known region.

I sat in Sykes' comfortable old-fash-

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 19

Sykes,of theAmericanDesert

ioned sitting room. Looking down onus from the wall was the 30-year-oldmounted head of the bighorn sheep hehad carried down cactus-forested Pinacatemountain. William Hornaday, I recalled,had praised Sykes' superhuman feat inhis Camp fires on Desert and Lava, giv-ing a lucid insight into Sykes' character.

We talked of many things, mostly ofhis work on the Colorado river and histrips to the Pinacate region. He hasfloated down the river 30—perhaps 40times. One of his first trips — in thespring of 1891—ended near Salton Sea,almost completing the first boat ridedown an unknown stream to a mysteri-ously growing lake in the desert. Stoppedin a mud flat near the present site ofHoltville in Imperial valley, he waded tosafety but later returned to the sea tomake its first circumnavigation. The craftin which Sykes and the late Dr. W. J.McGee—a ponderous man who nearlyfoundered the boat — made the triparound the shore of the Salton Sea nowlies in decay behind the Sykes home.

Probably Godfrey Sykes knows moreabout the Colorado river than any otherman. He is not interested in the politicalaspects of the stream or its industrial pos-sibilities; his interest is more elemental.He has ridden its breast night and day,measured it and dammed it, fought its ed-dies and trod its banks, cursed it andblessed it. For more than four decadeshe has been near it, watching it as criti-cally as he watched his own temperatureand pulse when he was stuck on the Ca-mino del Diablo.

Recalls Old River CaptainHe laughs as he recalls interesting and

amusing incidents on the river: Capt.Jack Mellon and the cuspidor he used asa weapon to control the unruly crew ofhis river steamer; Indians floating theirmelon harvest to market on the brownflood; narrow escapes in the rapids ofGrand Canyon; boom towns and despera-dos.

It hardly seems possible that one man,even one nearing the four score mile-stone, could encompass in his life somany thrilling experiences. Born in Lon-don, England, in 1861, Sykes grew toyoung manhood in the fog-draped city.Educated in private schools, he began hisbroader education in Japan and Australiaas an engineer. After a few years ofwanderlust, he found the Texas cattlecountry where he worked a while, thenmoved westward with his horses to thebright sunlight of the Arizona desert.

Dr. D. T. MacDougal, first director ofthe Desert Laboratory, met the young en-gineer about 1900, beginning a long as-sociation which has ripened into mutualaffection and admiration. The two menwere together in a camel trek on the Lib-yan desert and later they explored to-gether vast reaches of the Sonoran deserts.

Sykes is a slender man, narrow-shoul-dered and short of stature, seeming to be-lie stories of his great strength and endur-ance. But these stories are not mere leg-ends, they are matters of printed record.He walked for 13 hours across the So-noran desert without a hat to cover hisbald head, carrying only a little water andno food, returning to camp fresh andjaunty after his 43-mile pasear. To himit had not been a foolhardy sportingevent—he had gone to sea level on theGulf of California to reset his aneroid inorder to get correct elevations for hismaps.

Stranded on Gulf CoastOne of the stories rivals any adventure

classic of the delta. About 1900 Sykesteamed with Charlie MacLean for a boatexpedition which was to have its destina-tion in Central America. They started atYuma in the Hilda, a small boat but well-provisioned and seaworthy. They pro-gressed southward without incident toFermin Point on the peninsula side ofthe Gulf of California, where they pulledthe boat on shore for the usual eveningcamp. Later their attention was attractedby a glare of light. The Hilda was inflames, caused by the accidental droppingof a match. The two men saved only acanteen, a pot of beans, 13 pieces of oil-soaked hardtack, and a cask of fresh wa-ter.

"We were in a pretty fix," Sykes smileswhen he recalls the experience now."Southward the nearest settlement was atleast 200 miles away and there was nowater in between. Northward the near-est settlement was 150 miles away on theColorado river, but in between lay a greatalluvial plain, cut by numerous creeksand arms of the river, some of whichwould be very difficult to cross.

"We lost a day in a futile attempt toclimb the steep eastern slope of themountains, planning to reach the settle-ments on the west side of the peninsula.We gave that up, returned to refill ourcanteen and started north. Lack of waterwas our chief concern, but we found atiny water hole just as our canteen randry."

Coyote Meat Too ToughSupplementing their meager hardtack

with the flesh of an old coyote whichSykes described as "the rankest meat Iever ate," a few oysters from the rockyshore, and one fish, the men knew thepangs of real hunger.

Blinding days merged into bitternights as MacLean and Sykes trudgedhour after hour northward, stopping onlya few minutes at a time for rest.

Finally they reached the Hardy riverand "took two of the longest drinks onrecord." Two days later they pushed theirway through the brush to the west bankof the Colorado, swam the stream, andfound their way to the Colonia Lerdo.

There they found food after seven daysof terrible privation and hardship. Theyconsidered the 75-mile walk on to Yumaa comparatively easy hike.

The harrowing experience Sykes sharedwith his friend was only one of a seriesof exploits which demonstrated his amaz-ing endurance and adaptability. His asso-ciates describe him as an ideal campingcompanion because of his ingenuity inmaking the best of any seemingly hope-less situation.

Not content to compile his scientificconclusions in a four-walled studio, heprefers to get his facts from Nature's far-flung laboratory. Until recent years hewas an incurable "tripper," dashing awayfor a journey of several hundred miles ona moment's notice.

A few years ago when he showedyoung Dr. T. D. Mallery the route to hisstring of rain gauges on the desert, Sykesstarted out in his old car and Malleryfollowed. Although the 35-year-old scien-tist can claim to be a fast and skillfuldriver, he testifies that all he saw ofSykes on that 300-mile trip was a cloudof dust far ahead.

His eagerness to learn what lay be-yond the gray desert horizon broughtGodfrey Sykes a vast fund of informationabout the arid wastes, the turgid rivers,the flora and fauna of the AmericanSouthwest—a treasure which he has gen-erously bequeathed to all lovers of thedesert.

AUGUST REPORT FROMU. S. BUREAU AT PHOENIX

Temperatures DegreesMean for month 89-9Normal for August 88.5High on August 1st 111.Low on August 18th 67.

Rain— InchesTotal for month 1.11Normal for August 0.95

Weather-Days clear 16Days partly cloudy 15Days cloudy 0

G. K. GREENING, Meteorologist.FROM YUMA BUREAU

Temperatures— DegreesMean for month 90.4Normal for August 90.4High on August 21st 112.Low on August 15th 61.

Rain— InchesTotal for month 0.2569-year average for August 0.50

Weather-Days clear 19Days partly cloudy 11Days cloudy 1

Sunshine 90 per cent (362 hours out of possi-ble 414 hours).

Colorado river—August discharge at Grand Canyon 550,000acre-feet. Discharge at Parker 607,500 acre-feet. Estimated storage behind Boulder damwas 22,940,000 acre feet on September 1st.


Ridin' for Fun—At Victorville/ / OWBOYS who ride range out in the Mojave river

( country on the Southern California desert are polish-ing up their leather in preparation for their annual

jamboree—the Victorville Nonprofessional Rodeo.This show is for amateurs—the working cowhands who

come in off the Joshua tree range and spend three days ropingand tying just for the fun of it.

But despite the fact that no cash prizes are offered, theVictorville rodeo has become one of the most widely knownroping and riding events in the West. Its success is due to twofactors—the first is that those Mojave desert cowboys canride—and the other is Cal Godshall, the directing genius whomanages the show.

The Victorville rodeo was started on the Godshall cattleranch. Years ago the cowboys would gather there on week-ends for friendly competition. The events attracted increasingnumbers of visitors including such writers and picture starsas Gene Autry, Harry Carey, Clark Gable, William S. Hart,

Jeanne Godshall, in the picture above, is adaughter oi the Mojave desert. Her home is acattle ranch near Victorville and she has beena prominent figure at 75 western rodeos in the pastfour years.

Frank Scully, Will James, Jim Tully, Fred Jones and the lateWill Rogers.

Four years ago the contests had become so popular it wasdecided to hold them in Victorville as an organized rodeo.This year's program is to be held October 14, 15 and 16, andjudging from past records the 5000-seat grandstand will befilled to capacity. The arena is only 60 by 110 yards indimension, and this gives the crowd a close-up view of theshow and adds to the interest of the spectators.

Eighteen-year-old Jeanne Godshall helps her father stagethe show and has been instrumental in securing widespreadpublicity for the event. Jeanne is truly a desert girl, being anative of the little settlement of Tecopa in Death Valley,where her parents were interested in mining property yearsago.

She is an excellent rider and has been prominent in manywestern rodeos during the past four years. Recently she wasselected by Los Angeles Shriners as their "flying cowgirl" andcovered 11,000 miles and nearly 30 cities between by plane,dressed in her white buckskin outfit. The purpose was toinvite Shriners from all the major cities to come to the LosAngeles convention.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 21

Mystery Seaof the Desert

By TOM HUGHES

HEN the rumor reached SanFrancisco in June, 1891, that alake suddenly had appeared in

the middle of the Colorado desert ofSouthern California, the editor of theExaminer wired to a former Examinerreporter, Harry Patton of the BanningHerald, to drop everything and run downthe story.

Patton found the lake and sent in sev-eral hundred vivid words telling what hehad seen, and several thousand more a-bout his experiences in finding it.

His first report was that the SaltonSink, whose deepest hollow had alwaysheld a trickle of concentrated brine, wasfilling with salt water. This was startlingnews to readers in the southwestern partof the United States.

A couple of weeks later Patton began

filing stories of how he had driven acrossthe desert to the Colorado river wherehe had engaged a boatman named Con-verse, and together they had sailed downthe swollen Colorado.

Below Yuma, on the Mexican side ofthe boundary, they found water pouringthrough a wide break in the west bankof the river. Boldly steering their craftthrough the break they were borne west-ward for many miles and then in a north-westerly direction into American terri-tory again.

They shot rapids, so Patton reported,navigated between threatening palisadesof newly-cut desert silt, portaged a water-fall or two, and after several days floatedout upon the bosom of a brand-new lakethat already covered many square milesof the old Salton Sink.

Patton's story would have been under-stood and believed if his readers had been

Only a few persons will recall thesensation created in 1891 when news-paper headlines throughout the nationannounced that a mysterious lake wasbeing formed on the Southern Californiadesert where the rainfall was only threeinches a year. That was before it wasgenerally known that for countless agesthe fickle Colorado river had been al-ternating its discharge between the in-land basin of the desert and the Gulfof California. Many strange theorieswere offered regarding the source ofthis newly-formed lake. Here is thestory of the newspaper man who solvedthe mystery- The 1891 sea evaporatedlong before the first white settlers cameto Imperial Valley. The accompanyingsketch and photograph are of the saltworks in the bottom of the basin in 1900.

familiar with the dramatic history of theColorado river—how it had changed itsfickle course time and again, flowing oneseason into the Salton Sink and perhapsthe next year pouring its flood watersinto the Gulf of California.

Today, any school boy in the Imperialvalley understands how this took place,and why. The Colorado river over a longperiod of time had erected a great siltdike across the delta from Algodones toBlack Butte and the stream literally flowedon the top of the crest of this hill—sometimes to the south, emptying intothe gulf and at other times turning northinto the below-sea-level basin now knownas Imperial valley.

For many years prior to 1891, how-ever, the river had been pouring its waterinto the gulf and the Salton basin hadbeen dry so long a plant had been setup in the bottom of the sink for the re-covery of salt which was deposited there.White men regarded stories of a Saltonsink full of water merely as Indian leg-ends.

And so, when Patton's reports of hisboat ride from Yuma to Salton sea ap-peared in the California papers there weremany readers who doubted their truth.

One of these readers was CaptainThomas Fraser. Fraser was a practicalman. He had designed and built the Lickobservatory. Later a San Francisco syndi-


cate sent him into the desolate Cocopahmountain region near the mouth of theColorado river in Lower California to in-vestigate reported sulphur deposits there.He sailed around the Cape San Lucas andup the gulf to its head.

During his investigations in the deltaarea, Captain Fraser saw the great tidalbore come in from the gulf and roll overthe salt flats, submerging thousands ofacres of lowlands and extending manymiles inland toward the Salton Sink whichlay to the north of the Cocopahs. It is re-ported these tidal waves have reached aheight of 16 feet above mean sea level.

The silt dike which separates the Gulfof California from the Salton basin is but37 feet above sea level at its lowest point.

It is not likely Captain Fraser had anydata regarding the elevation of the dike,but he was a surveyor and had a practicalknowledge of land levels. When he sawthose monstrous tides race across the saltflats of the delta and roll on northwardtoward the sunken basin beyond, therecame to his mind an apprehension ofpossible catastrophe.

It was natural then, that years laterwhen the newspapers carried Patton'sstory of the new lake that was beingformed in Salton Sink the captain recalledhis own observations of a previous period.He was too practical a man to accept thetheory published by a Redlands news-paperman, that the water probably "wasseepage from the Great Salt Lake."

To Walter Hathaway of Banning, thecaptain confided his tide flow suspicionand his determination to verify it if true.

On a hot July afternoon the two ofthem took the train at Banning for Indio.Before his death a few months ago, Hath-away told about the details of the trip.He recalled that the thermometer in frontof the depot at Indio stood at 101 de-grees at midnight.

At Salton station, on the northwestrim of the Sink, they found the waterlapping the second story windows of theNew Liverpool Salt company's ware-house. They also met Converse, with thesame flat-bottomed boat that had madethe trip down the flood channel fromYuma.

Engaging the boat, with food anddrink and the skipper's services, they em-barked on the mysterious waters in thedead of night. They rowed until dawnand through blistering heat until 11 a.m.when they approached the southeastshoreline.

Here they saw a muddy stream pour-ing into the Sink from the south. Thisevidently was the mouth of the flood

Old photograph of Capt. ThomasFraser who had his own theory re-garding the forming of Salton Sea—and learned he was wrong.

channel which is known today as Newriver.

Stripping off shoes and pants, Hatha-way tried to wade ashore, but soon re-treated from the scalding mud. Withshoes on his feet and a board to keephim from sinking into the slime he triedit again and made better progress butwas not able to go far enough to deter-mine for sure whether the water flowinginto the sea at this point was fresh orsalty.

The sea at this time was approximately12 miles across and 30 miles long, and

the mariners reported they could touchbottom at any spot with an oar.

After a siesta in the scant shade offeredby the sail, the explorers late in the after-noon rowed toward the east. Eventuallythey came to another swifter channel—the Alamo—where it was ascertained be-yond any doubt the stream was freshwater from the Colorado river—as Pat-ton had reported.

Captain Fraser stood by and watchedhis cherished theory float away on theturgid flood.

The Colorado with characteristic fickle-ness turned back into its old channel withthe passing of the 1891 summer floodand by 1900 when the advance guardbegan arriving for the settlement of Im-perial valley lands there remained noth-ing but a briny sump at the low point inthe basin.

Salt recovery operations were resumedand the sink virtually was a dry basinuntil the memorable flood of 1905 whenthe diverted flow of water into the Im-perial valley for irrigation purposes gotout of control and the stream againpoured its waters into the sunken basin.But that is another story.

For countless ages the Salton Sink wasfilled and refilled at irregular intervalsaccording to the whims of an ungovernedstream. But that day is past. Boulder damhas been erected as an all-time barrieragainst the erratic discharge of flood waterinto the Salton basin.

The level of the sea will be maintained,however—not at the caprice of a madriver, but by the regulated drainage run-off from the canals of the Imperial Irri-gation district.

to- AmatetiA,Each month the Desert Magazine offers cash prizes to amateur

photographers of desert subjects. These contests are open to all readersof the magazine regardless of residence.

The first award is $5.00 and the second $3.00. The pictures may-include any desert subject, photographed on the desert. Close-ups ofplant and animal life, unusual personal pictures, well-composed land-scapes and scenic effects, rock formations, water holes, oases and re-creational pictures are among the subjects suggested.

Following are the rules governing the contest:

1—Pictures submitted in the Octobercontest must be received at the DesertMagazine office by October 20.

2—Not more than four prints may besubmitted by one person in one month.

3—Winners will be required to furnisheither good glossy enlargements or theoriginal negatives if requested.

4—Prints must be in black and white,214x314 or larger.

5—Pictures will be returned only whenpostage is enclosed.

For non-prize-winning pictures acceptedfor publication $1.00 will be paid for eachprint.

Winners of the October contest willbe announced and the pictures publishedin the December number of the magazine.Address all entries to:

CONTEST EDITOR,DESERT MAGAZINE,El Centro, California.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 23

1 DesertTrading Post

Classified advertising in this sectioncosts eight cents a word, $1.60 minimumper issue—actually about 10 cents perthousand readers.

BOOKS—We have a stock of the best refer-ence books available on desert life. Writeyour requirements or for quotations on ourcombination offer. Desert Crafts Shop, 597State St., El Centro, California.

• • •BACK NUMBERS of the Desert Magazine.

Beginning Nov. 1 there will be an advancein price on some of the back numbers. If youmiss any copies from your Vol. 1 file, orderthem now at 25 cents a copy, except;Vol. 1 No. 1 (November 1937) 50cThe supply of this first edition is very lim-ited but remaining copies go at the aboveprice beginning September 15.Complete file, first volume, November 1937to October 1938 in handsome loose-leafbinder, complete postpaid in United States,for only $3.50Complete file, first volume, in loose-leafbinder with one year subscription paid inadvance $5.00All prices above include sales tax andpostage.

• • •ARIZONA PETRIFIED WOOD—gem quali-

ty, $1 per pound. Peridotes $1 ounce. Birds-eye jasper $3 pound. Arizona stones cut andpolished, prices right. Prehistoric pottery,nice pots for $5. Address E. P. Matteson,Rt. 9, Box 626B, Phoenix, Arizona.

• • •WILD TURKEY, DEER, and BEAR HUNT-

ING—Make your headquarters at DIA-MOND ROCK LODGE, Springerville, Ari-zona. Good roads from Springerville, newcabins, good beds and meals. American plan—$4 single, $3.75 double per day.— Mrs.Grace Johnson, Mgr.

• • •DESERT FORD—equipped with iy2-'mch

tires and trunk rack. 1929 model coupe ingood running condition. Just the car forexploring the out-of-the-way places whereno roads exist. Car in garage at El Centro.Get in touch with owner by addressing theDesert Magazine, El Centro, California.

• • •DRIVE TO MEXICO CITY—Complete in-

formation and suggestions. Send ten centsin stamps to Wilson, Box 87, Barstow,California.

• • •RANCHO LOMA VISTA — Desert Guest

Ranch. U. S. 80 highway at Aztec, Arizona.Rates $2.50 per day.

• • •HAVE YOU MADE YOUR WILL?—Book-

let of instructions and Will form blank forOne Dollar. Satisfaction or money back.Send dollar to Desert Crafts Shop, 597State Street, El Centro, California.

• • •DESERT VALLEY RANCH SALE—Ideal for

rest haven, scenic resort site, agriculturalpursuits. In Kern county, 160 level acres.Two houses, double garage, well, trees, de-velopment. Any reasonable offer accepted.HIGBEE RANCH, Cantil, California.

Mined andPrescott, Arizona . . .

Arizona small mine operators in two dozenresolutions adopted at their first summerjamboree here handed out demands, pleasand pledges, praise and condemnation. Thestate land office is charged with discrimi-nation against mine owners and the smalloperators demand "exhaustive study of thepolicies" of that branch of Arizona's gov-ernment. The jamboree voted opposition toUS reciprocal tariffs; attacked workmen'scompensation insurance rates as too high;favored government buying and storage ofmetals from domestic sources; urged con-tinuation of silver buying; condemned"demagogery and class appeal methods" ofpolitical candidates and declared war oncandidates opposed to mining interests.Amendment of the Wagner act to recognizeemployers' rights was urged and US bureauof mines was commended for attitude towardsmall operators.

• • •Carson City, Nevada . . .

Historic mint, built by the federal govern-ment here in the days of the Comstock boom,is for sale. The two-story stone buildingused as a coin factory until 1893, later sawservice as an assay office before it wasabandoned. William Arthur Newman of thepublic building branch of the treasury pointsout that the mint handled tons of coins,gold pieces frequently dropped through thecracks in the floor. A grizzled miner someyears oga panned pay dirt near the build-ing. The structure was built at a cost ofmore than $400,000, will probably go "fora song."

• • •Ray, Arizona . . .

Ray mines division of Nevada Consoli-dated Copper company reopened August 16after being shut down two months, re-em-ploying first of more than 600 workers ex-pected to return to their jobs. Reopening ofthe Hayden, Ariz., concentrator and proper-ties in New Mexico is announced. Improveddemand for copper is the reason.

• • •Independence, California . . .

Stewart Bedell of Big Pine picked up anine-ounce gold nugget—"the size of alemon" on his Marble canyon placer goldproperty. The nugget is on display in a BigPine store.

• • •Phoenix, Arizona . . .

Arizona state mine inspectors visited 97mines during the first six months of 1938,reporting employment of 6,526 workmen inthese properties. Copper Queen branch ofPhelps-Dodge at Bisbee lists most workers,1180. Here are a few of the mine names:Big Johnnie, Blue Bird, Cat's Paw, GoldenStar, Golden Turkey, Little Daisy, NewYear's Gift, Mocking Bird, Pack Rat, Sup-erstition Saga, Yellow Jacket.

• • •Eureka, Nevada . . .

Forty miles of underground workings inthe old Diamond mine, south of here, at-tract many tourists. Drafts from the 2,000-foot main tunnel open into large naturalcaves where stalactites and stalagmites arefound. The mine is at an altitude of 8,300feet, was first opened in 1888, according tolocal records.

, .

Yuma, Arizona . . .Emery Blevens and wife have leased gold

properties in the Cave creek field of thePlomosa mining district to Drury Butlerand associates of Sacramento, Calif., withoption to purchase, involving $50,000.Papers have been filed with Vernon C.Wright, Yuma county recorder. Butler ex-pects to use drag-line and wet placer opera-tions on 880 acres. Water has been devel-oped on the claims, it is reported.

• • •Las Vegas, Nevada . . .

Three claims and a millsite in the Cimar-ron district have been acquired by the SilverDivide Mines company on a lease and op-tion from Charles W. Taylor, according toTonopah reports. Claims are Cimarron 5,6 and 7 and No. 6 millsite, adjoining hold-ings of Pacific Butte Mining company.Southern Californians are said to be prin-cipal stockholders in Silver Divide.

• • •Goldfield. Nevada . . .

Nevada's largest placer dredge is beingbuilt in Manhattan, says the Reno EveningGazette, to work several thousand acres ofground controlled by Donald and Cole-Kirchen interests. The dredge is 180 feetlong at the waterline and 60 feet wide. Asteel superstructure rises 50 feet. With 120buckets on the line, the machine is designedto treat 5,000 yards of material in 24 hours.Estimated cost is $900,000 and operationsare scheduled to begin in October.

Dove Hunters

. . here isyour paradise . .

Season opens Sept. 1.and closes Oct. 15 inCalifornia. On the edgeof the desert near Braw-ley is your best hunt-ing ground . . .

This is good country fordesert quail, too—seasonNov. 1-Dec. 31.

Plan to Make Brawleyyour Headquarters for

This Year's TripFor latest information abouthunting conditions and scenic at-tractions, address Secretary,

BRAUULEY CHAMBEROF COmfTlERCEBrawley, Calif.


-So They Took Pa to JailThis was the best Hot Air story submitted to the Desert

Magazine in the August contest, according to the opinionof the judges, and the $5.00 prize was awarded to WillStrong of Alhambra, California, who sent in the yarn. Withthe passing of summer the Hot Air contest will be discon-tinued for this season.

ft T was Pa's idea. Everybody said it^ r was crazy but that didn't stop Pa.

It was this way. Uncle Jud of LasVegas, Nevada, won a big sweepstakesprize and decided on a trip around theworld. He asked Pa to take care of theBritannia building until he got back, soPa leased the mine and we moved intotown.

The Britannia was the tallest buildingin Nevada at that time. It had a flat toproof with a three-foot wall around it. Pahad a lot of rich soil hauled in and carriedup to the roof and there he planted agarden. It was the first roof garden inthe state.

On the street side he planted climbingbeans. They grew to beat the band, rightfrom the start. In less than two weeksthey reached the top of the wall and be-

fore Pa had time to put up poles thebeans started climbing down the side.Maybe the force of gravity helped somebut in six weeks they had spread all overthat side.

When they began to bear all you hadto do was lean out the window and picka mess of beans.

"Who's crazy now?" asked Pa.There was a lot of the beans that

couldn't be reached from the windows,and they just kept on growin'.

Then came one of the hottest days everrecorded in Nevada or any other state.The beans ripened up too fast and 'roundnoon they began to pop. Before night theyhad broken every window in the bankand postoffice across the street.

The police had to rope off the streetfor three days and they arrested Pa forinterfering with the mails.

RATTLERS DISAPPEAR WHENHUNGRY CRICKETS MOVE IN

Hungry Mormon crickets are ganging upon rattlesnakes, according to Morley Murphy,Nevada rancher. Morley says he sawmassed battalions of crickets drive threerattlers into pits dug by WPA workers, de-clares the ravenous insects then swarmedover the snakes and devoured the reptileswithout leaving a trace of their victims.

LARGEST KIVA IS FOUNDBY FIELD MUSEUM MEN

Largest known kiva or temple built byprehistoric Americans has been located insouthwestern Colorado by members of aField Museum expedition, says Dr. Paul S.Martin, leader of the party. Uncovered amidthe ruins of an Indian village excavated onthe south rim of Cahone canyon, the greatcircular slab structure is 81 feet in diameter.Nearby were found living quarters, rows ofmasonry-walled rooms commanding a widesweep of the canyon. Subterranean houseshad been hewn out of rock. In the largerrooms there were hearths and nooks fordomestic necessities.

DESERT MAGAZINE BINDERSHold twelve copies—Attractive and Durable.Delivered, each $ I

Imperial Valley Bindery129 No. 6th St. El Centro, Calif.

THE BUTTERFIELD"The West'sMost UniqueLittle Magazine !

CHRONICLEPublishedMonthly

50c a yearL. T. SCHWACOFER, EL CENTRO, CALIF.

BUZZ HOLMSTROM STARTSSECOND TRIP DOWN RIVER

Buzz Holmstrom is at it again. Thisyoung Oregon filling station operator, onlyman to make a boat trip alone down theColorado to Boulder dam, is on the rivernow with one companion, Amos Berg, theirdestination the Gulf of California, 1200long, hard miles from their starting pointon the headwaters of the Green river inthe Wind mountains 150 miles north ofthe town of Green River.

STING OF SCORP#ION NOTSERIOUS, SAYS AUTHORITY

Sting of a scorpion is immediately pain-ful, no worse than that of a wasp, and theeffect passes in about half an hour. Tarantu-las are not so aggressive as scorpions, thebite of a large lady tarantula is about equalto the jab of a dull pin and is not danger-ously poisonous. These findings are pointedout by A. D. Shannel, Riverside, California,investigator as pertinent and comforting todesert habitants and sojourners.

• • •

WORK STARTED ON UTAHDINOSAUR EXHIBIT

Dr. Barnum Brown, tops in the worldof dinosaur hunters, has taken a staff oftechnicians to Dinosaur national monumentto chisel out a bas-relief of gigantic boneson the face of a cliff 40 feet high and 400feet long. Release of $37,698 federal fundspermits continued work at the site. Twoprehistoric skeletons have been removed, butProf. A. C. Boyle, superintendent of themonument, says there are probably hundredsof thousands of fossils in the area. Presi-dential proclamation adds 203,965 acres tothe monument, in Uintah county, Utah andMoffat county, Colorado. Grazing, irriga-tion and power rights are not affected bythe increase in size.

Victorville Nonprofessional

R O D E OThe West's Wildest cowboy contest

October 14-15-16, 1938VICTORVILLE, CALIF."We suggest you attend Saturday for afull day and night of frontier fun."

£i>ent unity,tuhy not now VfSIT

DEATH VALLEY"Ohe Valley of life"

STOVE PIPE WELLSHOTELS LODGESPO Dcatk VatleuJuncUen.C°l<<'Lot Amiltl Oflict til I tprmq U Mf

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Please send me free, "Lure of Death Valley"

Name

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P R I N T I N GFOR THE DESERTFor business and professionalpeople wanting

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Dummies and quotations gladlyfurnished.

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O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 25

Sez HardRock Shorty

of

Death

Valley

Sy LON GARRISON"I've heard it said," began Hard

Rock Shorty, "that a man can onlyjump as far as he is long. Now, Iain't wantin' to call nobody a liar,but when my own experience tellsme that I can hop about four timesas far as I am tall, an' this from astandin' start, why then I just gotto disagree with the aforementionedstatement."

Hard Rock spat reflectively overthe rail of the store porch, estimatedthe lasting qualities of the shadeand then leaned back comfortablyin the creaky old chair.

"I was out prospectin' one day inDry Gulch, here a year or two ago.I was workin' along the edge o' thegulch, tryin' to foller up a littlecolor that seemed to peter out inthe crick just at that spot, an' I wasup on the rim o' this barrancawhich same was all o' 14 foot wide.I was leanin' over, backed upagainst a big high rock, when all ofa sudden a whoppin' big rattler letgo right about opposite my hippocket. I straightened up with ajerk. There just wasn't no place togo. The walls o' the gully droppedoff ahead o' me about 20 footstraight down an' the crick bottomwas rough enough to bust all mylegs. I couldn't get out to the sides,an' I couldn't back up.

"I didn't have long to figger onit, neither. That snake let outanother rattle right under me, an'there was only one thing to do—•try to jump the gulch. The snakelet go again, givin' me a good start,an' the way I hopped would o'made a kangaroo jealous. I riz upan' sailed like an eagle right outacross the gulch—over—over—al-most over—was I goin' to make it?With about two foot to go, I seenI just didn't have the push to do it.

"So, I turned around an' wentback. Lit ker-smack right on thatsnake, an' squashed 'im flatter'n oneo' the preacher's jokes."

BandelierMonument

Fletcher A. Carr of Lemon Grove, Cali-fornia, is the winner of the $5.00 cashprize offered by the Desert Magazinef o r ^ e best l e t t e r identifying and de-scribing the landmark below, photo-

graphed in Rito de los Frijoles, 50 miles west of Santa Fe.

By FLETCHER A. CARR

Lemon Grove, California

The landmark pictured in the Augustissue of the Desert Magazine is located onthe Rito de los Frijoles in the Bandeliernational monument about 50 miles west,by road, of Santa Fe. The photographshows three cavate or cliff-room dwellingswhich were constructed in the erodedhollows of the volcanic tuff cliffs so com-mon to this region.

Bandelier national monument, in theheart of the Pajarito plateau, lies at anelevation of approximately 7,000 feetabove sea level and is covered withconiferous trees. It was named for thatintrepid explorer, Adolph F. Bandelier,who made extensive archaeological sur-veys in the southwest during the early1880's. This extremely interesting monu-ment is easily reached by automobile fromSanta Fe, by turning west fromU. S. Highway 285 at Pojuaque andfollowing a well surfaced road the re-maining 30 miles over the beautifulPajarito plateau. A section of both the

road and plateau can be seen in the background of the photograph.

The cavate dwellings were occupied byprehistoric Indians of the upper RioGrande drainage during the 14th and15th centuries A. D. Holes that hadweathered out of the cliff walls wereclosed up, except for small entryways, byusing poles and clay mortar or stoneblocks and mud plaster. Several postholes can be seen along the lower marginof the hollow to the left of the group ofpeople.

In addition to the cavate dwellings,there is a large pueblo ruin, Tyuonyi, lo-cated on the talus slope beneath the cliffsand a spacious ceremonial cave a shortdistance from the point in the photo-graph.

The national government welcomes alltourists to this scenic spot with the whole-hearted hospitality that is so characteristicat all of its monuments. Adequate camp-ing facilities are available for anyone de-siring to spend a few leisure days in theregion.


THIS PICTURE TAKEN IN NEVADAWho can name and describe this place?

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' \ J L - • •-••- ' S B

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FOR THE BEST ANSWER—A PRIZE OF $5.00

Every month the Desert Magazine pays$5.00 to one of its readers for the bestletter identifying and describing a wellknown landmark in one of the stateswithin the desert area.

This month the "mystery picture" wastaken in Nevada. The landscape shownin the photograph above is seen by hun-dreds of motor travelers every year. Thebuildings should be easily identified bythose who have visited this scenic spot.

Since this picture was taken a year agosubstantial changes have been made in

the trail shown in the foreground, butthe general landscape remains the same.

For the best manuscript of not over400 words identifying the place shown inthe picture, giving its location and ac-cessibility, and describing the scenic at-tractions at this point, the Desert Mag-azine will pay a cash award of $5.00.

This contest is open to all readers ofthe magazine and entries should be ad-dressed to Landmark department, DesertMagazine, El Centro, California.

The contest closes on the evening ofOctober 20, and the winning answer willbe published in the December number ofthis magazine.

Tropics in Your YardContinued jrom page 13

Montana), arbor vitae, Callistemon rigid-us (bottle brush), Buddleia alternifolia(summer lilac), Catalina cherry, Coton-easter parneyi, Crape myrtle, Gardeniaveitchi, Grevillea robusta, Guava, Hibis-cus brilliante, juniper, Leptospermum(Australian tea tree), Myrtle, Nandinadomestica (bamboo), Privet japonica,Pyracantha lalandi, Pittosporum tobira,Plumbago capensis, and Viburnum.

The leader in vines is grape. But fruit-less vines serve better in their specialplaces. Try Bignonia tweedianna, Bostonivy, Ficus repens, jasmine, Tecoma capen-sis, and Virginia creeper.

There are several dozen annual flower-ing plants which help to complete a gar-den but are not necessarily part of a tropi-

cal theme. Some of the favorites include:African daisy, Begonia, Delphinium,pansy, Petunia, snapdragon, Santolina,and verbena.

The visit to Archias' back yard mademe want to rush out and get a truck loadof plants, borrow the neighbor's shovel,and dig holes in my own measuredground. But on second thought I am con-vinced I do not have the patience to prop-erly finish the job. Assuming this weak-ness is an American characteristic, it iseasy to understand why there are few gar-dens like that at 311 J street, Brawley.

The desert has many cactus fans and toespouse openly the case of the tropicalgardener would be to invite thorns ofabuse upon my head. But fresh from thespell of an evening in the Archias glade,I am eager to present "J. C.'s" side ofthe story, for his yard is attractive, use-ful, and livable.

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Indian Tribes jOF THE SOUTHWEST ^

BY MRS. "WHITE MOUNTAIN" SMITH *

An informal story of the lives, cus- jtoms, arts, and handicrafts of the In- mdians of Arizona and New Mexico, Aby the author of / Married a Ranger

($1.00) and Ho/-/ Girl ($2.50)Illustrated $1.50

Stanford University PressSTANFORD UNIVERSITY, CALIF.

OF YESTERDAY AND TODAY—a monthly review of the best literatureof the desert Southwest, past and present.

Selected Desert

BOOKS'jerence shelf . .or your reference s

DEATH VALLEY: THE FACTSW. A. CHALFANT

An absorbing account of the phys-ical and historical facts about thisfamous sink, told by the only manwho is qualified to write this book.

Illustrated, third edition,160 pages $2.75

INDIAN TRIBESOF THE SOUTHWESTDAMA MARGARET SMITH

If you have read Mrs. WhiteMountain Smith's human and. bril-liant articles in The Desert Maga-zine, you will want this book, avivid, picturesque, and useful hand-book on our desert Indians.

Maps and sketches,160 pages $1.50

THE CACTUS AND ITS HOMEFORREST SHREVE

Dr. Shreve, as Director of the Car-negie Institution's Desert Labora-tory, has produced a readable bookfor anyone with interest in desertplants.

Originally $3.00, now $1.50

CALIFORNIA DESERTSEDMUND C. JAEGER

A happy combination, this — abook about the Colorado and Mo-jave deserts of California whichthe casual visitor can read withpleasure and yet one that the scien-tific student can most profitablyuse.

Illustrated, 209 pages $2.00

ON SALE AT

Desert Crafts Shops597 STATE STREET

EL CENTRO, CALIF.

All prices postpaid but sales tax addedfor California buyers.

OBSCURE TRAILS REVEALFASCINATION OF THE DESERT

f% N CALIFORNIA DESERT\J TRAILS, J. Smeaton Chase created

— ^ a classic of desert literature. Pub-lished in 1919 by Houghton Mifflin com-pany, two decades of readers have foundthe volume an authoritative and adven-turous introduction to the Colorado des-ert.

Chase writes without pretense or form-ality. While he recreates the scenes,sounds, colors, and even the moods of thedesert in terms that are entertaining andcolorful, he is always faithful to the landand the people he seeks to portray.

Starting south from San Jacinto moun-tain at the end of May, Chase followedprospectors' trails, Indian trails, and rab-bit trails, through numerous palm can-yons skirting the west rim of the Colo-rado desert, to oases and water holes, upto Warner's and Vallecito, down throughthe badlands and across Imperial valleyto Yuma. He followed the Colorado riverup to the Palo Verde valley, then traveledthrough the heart of the Chuckawallasback,to his starting point. Mesquite hadoriginally been one of the party, but theluxury-loving burro rebelled before hehad gone far from Palm Springs. The In-dian saddle horse Kaweah became hiscompanion during the remainder of thejourney.

Each canyon, each water hole — everypoint in his journey is made memorableby the association of legends and tales,the contrast of the seasons, the local color.Chase disclaims being a scientist but inhis fine exposition of plant relation to itsenvironment, his accurate observance ofdesert animals, his references to geologyand history, he shows himself a close ob-server and an eager student of nature.

He confesses at the beginning that hehas fallen completely under the desert'sspell. "It is the desert as desert—God'sdesert, not man's—that engaged my in-terest, and that . . . seems to me the mostmemorable, in its totality of impressive-ness, of all natural objects that I havemet." The paradox is that the desert isthe opposite to all we ordinarily findpleasant, yet its spell is deeper and moreenduring than that of any other geograph-ical region. Chase believes this is partlydue to the fact that man, rarely steadfastin his attitude toward nature, changesinto reverse to the spirit of the times.Thus, ease and luxurious living havebrought about a zest for things stark, re-pellant. Another key to the attractionhas been recognized by many desert so-

journers—"It disembodies us, takes awaywhat hides us from ourselves." A broaderexplanation which he gives is the meta-physical one: "Space, solitude, quiet—our minds at their best are tuned to these,and when they find them they expand,like the anemone welcoming its nativetide."

The hardships of storms, wind, pests,heat are not minimized, but even themost immune reader will have to confessthat he has fallen under the inexplicablecharm of the "dreamy, dreary desert."

LUCILE HARRIS.

CLOSE TO THE HEARTS OFSOUTHWESTERN INDIANS

Just about this time every year I takedown from the book shelf and read againCharles F. Lummis' MESA, CANONAND PUEBLO, published by The Cen-tury company, 1925. It always inspiresme with a wild desire to drop everythingand rush off to Arizona.

There is something so frank and easyabout Mr. Lummis' work that it not onlyis highly informative but extremely in-teresting. While we may at times be in-clined to disagree with him, as when heinfers that the mirage is limited to thedesert places, one must admire his cour-age and power of observation.

Mr. Lummis was considered a "bitqueer" by some of his neighbors, but thatgenerally is the way the world looks uponone who has the will to do and live ashe sees fit regardless of conventions. Thefact that he was invited and urged to be-come a member of one of the most reti-cent Indian tribes, whose distrust of the"civilized races" had become almost areligion among them, speaks worlds forthe real character of the man.

The hundred or more photographstaken by Mr. Vroman and others lendadded charm to the book. Some of thesephotos are extremely rare. Of course,many changes have taken place on thedesert and among its people since Mr.Lummis' book was written, but the essen-tials are still the same, for on the desertTime knows no limitation.

There are descriptive chapters on theGrand Canyon, the Petrified Forest, theSnake dance, the Lava rivers—written sowell that it becomes difficult for one toremain at home.

TRACY M. SCOTT.


DESERT SOLACEBY LUELLA CLEWELL

Wichita, KansasWhen the world pressesWith burdens dreary,The desert caressesThe mind made weary.

THE LIZARD'S PLANBY MARY E. PERDEWSanta Ana, California

A traveler through a desert town,Stopped off to talk to Old Bill Brown,A desert rat of some renown."Oh Mister: Could you tell me, please,How can such little beasts as these,Upon the burning desert sandsRun to and fro, with seeming ease.I can't see how they do it so.It burns them, surely where they go."Old Bill made answer, "Oh yes, Ma-am,It would, but they have got a plan.They're mighty smart; there ain't a doubt,The lizards and the horny toads,They sure have got it figgered out.In these here days when it's so hot,And there just ain't no nice cool spot;When he goes travelin' there and back,The little varmint has a stick,He tikes it with him on his back,And when he gets too dad-burned hotHe climbs up on the stick to set.He takes a durned good rest, you bet.And that explains in all this heatWhy there's no blisters on his feet."

Photo, courtesy U. S. Bureau of Reclamation

The Desert WaitsBY A. V. STORERPomona, California

Dedicated to Ragsdale of Desert Center

Far flung, as nature's waste, despised,Cast free from care and man,

The desert waits and silent keepsIts purpose in that plan

Which checks conceit and waiting yet,Spread far and near

In solemn abject humbleness,Calls reverent thought to prayer.

Here too, to show the love of thatGreat compensating Mind,

The desert waits, as eventideLeaves blistering glare behind,

And bathes hues beyond compare,As token to the sons of men,

That love still nestles there.Just so, as ages come and ages go,

Grasping or reconciled,The desert waits, as stern as any foe,

Yet lovely as a child;In moods flung wide from heaven's dawn

To depths of hades' gates;Outcast, companion of our hopes,

Until He calls, the desert waits.

A RATTLESNAKEBY THELMA IRELAND

McGill, NevadaA slinky, ugly rattlesnakeSlithering through the brush.Its rattle sounds a warningFollowed by a general hush.But, what can be the use of him—Just causing folk to faint?Perhaps it's just another thingTo make us glad we ain't.

SANDIA MOUNTAINSBY MILDRED E. CHRISTIE

Albuquerque, New MexicoGlorious Sandias! grey at morning's flush,

Or shrouded in a filmy shawlOf snowy clouds. At evening's blush

An old rose gown she wears.When storm clouds lower in the east

They rise a grim and fearful massAmid the lightning's flash; a feast

Of splendor to the eye.Her winter gown of white is best,

Illumined by the sunshine bright,In majesty her form caressed,

And queenly graciousness.So whether robed in white or blue,

Or purple, grey or rose,I'll watch to see the shifting hue

With solemn awe and praise.

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 29

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ARIZONA

Tucson . . .

MENTION DESERT MAGAZINEWHEN ANSWERING ADVERTISERS

Strict control of mesquite on southernArizona grassland ranges is recommendedby Dr. R. B. Streets, plant pathologist andE. B. Stanley, chief of animal husbandry atthe university of Arizona. Spread of themesquite is a detriment to grazing on south-western ranges, these scientists declare, andthe problem is of prime importance. Re-moval of mesquite increases cattle carryingcapacity of the range from two and a halfto three times, tests in Texas revealed. Ob-jections are two-fold: the tree competeswith forage grasses and it is difficult towork cattle in mesquite thickets. Eradicationis opposed because mesquite leaves in springmake succulent forage, its beans are palat-able, it is used for fuel and fence posts andit provides protection to cattle from sunand storm. Control recommended is appli-cation of sodium arsenate to sapwood. Cut-ting is not effective. Stumps sprout immed-iately, make dense clumps.

Window Rock . . .Political machinery of the paleface has

been adopted by the Navajos. Indians whoheld nominating primaries in 18 reserva-tion districts on August 16 will vote bysecret ballot on September 24 for membersof the tribal council. Having no generallyunderstood written language, the Indianvoters will use colored ballots, a differentcolor for each candidate. Color blind voterswill be out of luck. White man's politicspops up in a letter from Chee Dodge, patri-arch of the Navajo chieftains, to IndianCommissioner John Collier. The venerablechief declares the federal government's re-habilitation program "means financial ruinfor the Indian" and asks bluntly, "Whatare you going to do about it?"

Phoenix . . .Procurement office of the national park

service at Phoenix has been transferred toSanta Fe, N. M., despite protests of Arizonabusiness men. Purchases for Arizona parkdivisions at Phoenix, Tucson and Kingmanare affected.

Flagstaff . . .Coconino county's J. D. Walkup, chair-

man of the board of supervisors, is fed upon national monuments. Fighting a proposalto designate the Sycamore canyon region,near Williams, as a federal reserve, Walkupwent to Phoenix to kick to the governor.Said Walkup: "Coconino already is owned90 per cent by the federal government. Ifthis keeps up we might as well give all tothe government and let it pay the cost ofour local government." Meantime FrankPinkley, southwestern monuments superin-tendent, is investigating, after receiving a re-quest from Senator Carl Hayden to lookinto the canyon.

Window Rock . . .If you hear strange noises coming from

your radio, maybe you're tuned in on thenew station at the Navajo Indian centralagency here. Broadcasting is in the Navajolanguage, for the benefit of 50,000 hogandwellers on the 16,000,000-acre reservation.

Tucson . . .Lightning bugs with their tail lights on

behind carry dimmers, compared to theCuban click beetle's illumination. Found inthe Santa Rosa mountains by Jack Wilsonof the Tucson chamber of commerce, thisrare insect, dark brown and about an inchlong, is said to cast an eight-inch circle sobright you can read a newspaper by it.Dr. Lawrence P. Wehrle, assistant professorof entomology of the university of Arizona,says Jack's find is the first of its kind nearTucson.

CALIFORNIA

Blythe . . .Water storage in the lake behind Parker

daw will be increased after October 1 andwill reach its maximum 30 days later, ac-cording to reports received at Palo Verdeirrigation district headquarters here. Thelake will extend from the dam to within afew miles of Needles. Silt content in Colo-rado river water at Blythe intake late inAugust amounted to only 1/40 of one percent by wet volume. Cut in dredging costsof the Palo Verde district is forecast byManager C. P. Mahoney.

Mojave . . .Westways highway association has been

organized to promote a new transcontinentalroute touching points of interest in nationalparks. From Las Vegas tourists will be urgedto go across the desert through Barstow, Mo-jave, Tehachapi, Bakersfield and Famoso,turning west to Morro bay. Stanley Abel,Kern county supervisor, is president of theassociation. An advertising program willemphasize scenic wonders of Westwayshighway.

Barstow . . .John William Brown, 69, construction en-

gineer who built first railroad lines intoDeath valley, was buried in Compton inAugust. Over this road first loads of boraxwere hauled after famous 20-mule teamswere discarded. His name is linked withbuilding of other western rail lines, his re-cord included service with SP in Mexicoduring revolutionary days. Surviving mem-bers of his family are his widow and twodaughters.

Brawley . . .First of three big diesel engines and gen-

erators, to treble capacity of the ImperialIrrigation district power plant here, is be-ing assembled and delivery of electricity toa valleywide system under public owner-ship is scheduled for October 15. Servicewill be given to patrons on 600 miles ofrural lines and to seven incorporated cities.

Independence . . .From pens of the Rainbow club of Bishop

17 ring-neck pheasants 14 weeks old werereleased to fare for themselves in Owensvalley first week in August. Two pens weretaken to Round valley, four to Bishop, twoto Independence and two to Lone Pine. Ship-ment of 200 pheasants from Napa gamefarm will be liberated in this area in Sep-tember.


Barstow . . .Fourth archer in the world to shoot an

arrow with a foot bow a distance of morethan 500 yards is Kenneth Wilhelm of thiscity. At the National archery associationmeet in San Francisco Kenneth sped his ar-row 533 yards. Then with an arrow he hit acork perched on Reuben Neilson's thumb,shot a dime from between Reuben's fingers.He wanted to shoot an apple on Reuben'shead, but regulations prohibited this dupli-cation of William Tell's stunt. To shoot afoot bow the archer sits down, pushesagainst the bow with his feet as he drawsthe bowstring, exerting more than 200pounds pressure. The foot bowman wearsleather breeches. He needs them when heslides along the ground after the arrow isreleased.

• • •

NEVADA.

Boulder City . . .Mr. and Mrs. America continue to flock

in growing numbers to Boulder dam recre-ational area. Tourist travel to Yellowstoneand Tahoe showed a slump in July, butnational park service reports an increase invisitors to the Boulder area for the month,as compared with July 1937. In 21,583 cars70,419 persons journeyed to see the sightsat the world's biggest dam during the 31days of July 1938. This upped the total 5.9per cent from the 1937 record for the sameperiod.

Lovelock . . .James Scossa, "well known and success-

ful prospector," is credited with discoveryof hosts of horned toads in places on theNevada desert. One newspaper says, "Indriving up toward his mine at Happy Creek,James reports thousands of the small redand grey animals could be seen hoppingalong ahead." Maybe Scossa saw anothercreature. Horned toads don't hop. They'relizards and they walk or run.

Lehman caves monument . . .True source of old song, "I'm Forever

Blowing Bubbles," has been located. A bub-ble-blowing stalactite, tinkling when thebubbles burst, is the novel find made hereby T. O. Thatcher of the national park ser-vice. Discovery is reported officially atWashington. In a section of the caves knownas Cypress swamp, Thatcher heard a musi-cal sequence of tinkles. He traced origin ofthe sound to a small stalactite, decidedwater and air, forced through the hollowcore of the formation, are responsible forthe phenomenon.

Las Vegas . . .Guaymas bound, Paul Thompson, Tucson

rancher and Hubert Merriweather, ArizonaU. student, shoved off from Boulder damand rowed away in a canvas boat down theColorado river. Their craft weighs 55pounds and they will detour with portageswhen they arrive at Parker and Imperialdams on the lower river. The trip to theSonoran port on the Gulf of California isdescribed as a vacation cruise.

Winnemucca . . .Rainfall records for 25 years toppled when

Meteorologist L. A. Staples reported totalprecipitation of 1.15 inches here during themonth of July 1938. Only once before in thehistory of the weather bureau, dating to1871, was this figure topped. In July 1913Winnemucca had 1,55 inches of rain. Win-nemuccans complained when the mercuryhit 101 on July 23 and 24, this year.Month's low temperature was 43 degreeson July 3.

NEW MEXICO

Deming . . .Southwest New Mexico Power association

has been organized here by representativesof four communities in the territory to beserved by the hydro-electric power plant atElephant Butte dam on the Rio Grande.Hatch, Silver City, Lordsburg and Demingare charter members, Hillsboro, Hot Springs,Kingston and Las Cruces are expected tojoin. Allocation of power will be requestedin applications to US reclamation service.Cheaper rates and increased use of electricityare expectations.

Santa Fe . . .New Mexico tourist bureau is placing

elaborate signs directing tourists to FortWingate, El Morro, Kit Carson's cave, Blue-water lake, San Felipe church in Old Albu-querque and the Ice caves. Signs will be putup for Alamogordo lake near Fort Sumner,scene of Villa's raid on Columbus, Zunipueblo, Brazito battlefield. El Camino RealSanta Fe Trail and Eagle Nest lake. Others,too numerous to mention, are on a long list.

Santa Fe . . .Anxious appeal for cash saved the day

for the Coronado Cuarto Centennial exposi-tion, when the state finance board put up$1250 to carry on the preliminary work forthe celebration scheduled for 1940. Dr.James Zimmerman, president of New Mexi-co university, said the legislature will beasked to provide funds, but money ran outbefore the legislature convened.

Albuquerque . . .Instruments are being installed in New

Mexico and other western states for gather-ing snowfall data at altitudes of 7000 feet orhigher, weather bureau officials here an-nounce. Information thus gained is valuableto municipalities, irrigation districts and allothers dependent on water supply. Thirteensnow gauging stations were operated in NewMexico in the winter of 1937-38, in cooper-ation with the forest service. Thirty-five morestations will be set up this year, six of themin Arizona, four in New Mexico.

Silver City . . .Indian bureau officials say there is "every

reason to believe" a rich oil strike isimminent on the 750,000 acres belongingto the Jicarilla Apaches. Seven hundred andfifty tribesmen voted to assign all rights tothe tribe, opposed individual apportionment.These New Mexican red men may be inline for oil fortunes rivaling wealth ofOklahoma tribes.

UTAHMexican Hat . . .

Annual romance roundup of Navajo In-dians was held in mid-August at Goulding'strading post in Monument valley, scenic highspot described in the Desert Magazine July1938. From isolated villages came partici-pants in the annual squaw dance at whichyoung women of the tribe have a chanceto select their mates.

Moab . . .Four "new" arches have been discovered

recently in Arches national monument, re-ports Ranger Reed. Two of them are in theYellow Cat district, two in the presentboundaries of the reserve. Listed officiallynow are 48 arches, 35 feet or more in lengthand 21 smaller. Following a series of floodsin Courthouse wash which stopped traffic,the road has been repaired by CCC workersand state road crews. In July there were 186visitors.

Dependable low-Cost— u ii ii K i.l.l i.l l.i.ii.i.tl JLUJ)

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STATEMENT OF THE OWNERSHIP, MAN-AGEMENT, CIRCULATION, ETC., REQUIRED

BY THE ACT OF CONGRESS OF AUGUST24, 1912, AND MARCH 3, 1933.

Of the Desert Magazine, published monthlyat El Centro, California for October 1, 1938.STATE OF CALIFORNIA )

) S3.

COUNTY OF IMPERIAL )Before me, a notary public in and for the

State and county aforesaid, personally appearedJ. Wilson McKenney, who, having been dulysworn according to law, deposes and says thathe is the business manager of the Desert Mag-azine and that the following is, to the best ofhis knowledge and belief, a true statement ofthe ownership, management (and if a dailypaper, the circulation), etc., of the aforesaidpublication for the date shown in the abovecaption, required by the Act of August 24, 19X2,as amended by the Act of March 3, 1933, em-bodied in section 537, Postal Laws and Regula-tions, printed on the reverse of this form, to-wit:

1. That the names and addresses of the pub-lisher, editor, managing editor, and businessmanager are:

Publisher, The Desert Publishing Co., ElCentro, California.

Editor, Randall Henderson, El Centro, Cali-fornia.

Managing Editor, (none)Business Manager, J. Wilson McKenney, El

Centro, California.2. That the owner is: (If owned by a cor-

poration, its name and address must be statedand also immediately thereunder the names andaddresses of stockholders owning or holding oneper cent or more of total amount of stock. Ifnot owned by a corporation, the names and ad-dresses of the individual owners must be given.If owned by a firm, company, or other unin-corporated concern, its name and address, aswell as those of each individual member, mustbe given.)

Randall Henderson, El Centro, California.Tazewell H. Lamb, El Centro, California.J. Wilson McKenney, El Centro, California.3. That the known bondholders, mortgagees,

and other security holders owning or holding 1per cent or more of total amount of bonds,mortgages, or other securities are: (If thereare none, so state.)

There are no stockholders, bondholders, mort-gagees, or other security holders.

4. That the two paragraphs next above, giv-ing the names of the owners, stockholders, andsecurity holders, if any, contain not only thelist of stockholders and security holders asthey appear upon the books of the company butalso, in cases where the stockholder or securityholder appears upon the books of the companyas trustee or in any other fiduciary relation,the name of the person or corporation for whomsuch trustee is acting, is given; also that thesaid two paragraphs contain statements em-bracing affiant's full knowledge and belief asto the circumstances and conditions under whichstockholders and security holders who do notappear upon the books of the company as trus-tees, hold stock and securities in a capacityother than that of a bona fide owner; and thisaffiant has no reason to believe that any otherperson, association, or corporation has any in-terest direct or indirect in the said stock, bonds,or other securities than as so stated by him.

5. That the average number of copies of eachissue of this publication sold or distributed,through the mails or otherwise, to paid sub-scribers during the twelve months precedingthe date shpwn above is (blank) (This informa-tion is required fronv daily publications only.)

J. WILSON McKENNEY,Business Manager.

Sworn to and subscribed before me this 18thday of August, 1938.(SEAL) HERBERT LOWDERMILK.

My commission expires August 4, 1943.

DESERT PLACE NAMESCompiled by TRACY M. SCOTT

For the historical data contained in this department, the Desert Magazine is indebted tothe research work done by Miss Scott; to the late Will C. Barnes, author of "ArizonaPlace Names"; to Frances Rosser Brown of New Mexico and to Hugh O'Neil of OgdenUtah.

ARIZONABLOODY TANKS Gila county

At head of wash bearing same name. Socalled from fight there in winter of 1863-64between whites and Maricopa Indians onone side and Apaches on the other. KingWoolsey was captain. Encounter also knownas the "Pinole Treaty" because Woolsey be-fore the fight offered the Apaches a feast ofpinole as a token of friendship. Emory sayspinole is heart of Apache corn, baked,ground and mixed with brown sugar. It hasbeen stated often that Woolsey put strych-nine in the food. Bancroft called the fight"an outrageous massacre, the Indians beingcoaxed to the feast and nearly all slaugh-tered by Woolsey's party." Peeples, who waspresent, denies this.

FORT BOWIE Cochise countyIn Apache pass, north end Chiricahua

mountains. One of earliest military posts inArizona. Named for Col. George W. Bowie,Fifth California Infantry volunteers. ManyIndian fights took place here and it was oneof the most dangerous and dreaded partsof the stage road. Bourke says: "Fort Bowiewith its grewsome graveyard filled withsuch inscriptions as 'Killed by Apaches;''Met his death at the hands of Apaches,' and'Tortured to death by Apaches.' One visit tothat graveyard was guaranteed to furnish themost callous with nightmares for a month."

ELOY Pinal countyStation on SPRR about 6 miles west of

Picacho. Mrs. M. M. Fordham, president ofthe Woman's club at Eloy, wrote: "In theyear 1902 the Southern Pacific built a switchhere, naming it Eloi, a word taken from theSyrian language, meaning "My God." Itwas soon called Eloy after the Spanish pro-nunciation. In 1916 a couple of men camefrom California, laid out a town site, pro-moted the planting of cotton and renamedthe town Cotton City. The SP would notaccept the new name and carried all mailfor Cotton City on through. After many dis-putes and some litigation the town becameEloy for good."

CALIFORNIAHARPER'S WELL Riverside county

Originally called San Sebastian del Pere-grino by De Anza in honor of his Indianguide Sebastian Tarabel. Later water holeand surrounding land were claimed by asettler named Harper.

OWENS river, valley, lake Inyo countyNamed by John C. Fremont in honor of

Richard Owens, who first met Fremont onthe Oregon trail in 1845. Later Owens wasan officer in the California army. Fremontand Owens led parties to Walker lake No-vember 23, 1845. Indians called the riverWa-ko-pee or Wau-co-ba.

PALOMAR Mountain (pah loh mar')San Diego county

Ele. 6128. In San Jacinto range. Sp. "dove-cote"; may also mean "mountain overlook-ing the sea." Site of new 200-inch telescope.Formerly called Smith mountain, one authorsays this name came from a man namedSmith, who was an early settler on themountain.

ANDRADE Imperial countyFrom General Guillermo Andrade who

owned most of the land in Mexico throughwhich the canal to irrigate Imperial valleywas, at its inception, proposed to run. Healso owned much of the district aroundBlythe. He died in Mexico City in 1905.His son, A. F. Andrade, later was agent forthe California Development company. AtAndrade are present headworks for the Im-perial Irrigation district, but the intake fromthe Colorado river will be transferred soonto Imperial dam, upstream above Yuma onthe Ail-American canal.

• • •UTAH

WINSHIP Summit countyFounded 1880 and named for a highly

respected Indian chief.PIUTE (pi'yute) county

From the Indian tribe. Pah is "water."Pah-Ute "The Ute Indians that live nearwater." Various spellings of the word, thispublication preferring Pahute.

JUAB (You'ab) countyIndian-Spanish word meaning "flat lands."

YAMPA PLATEAU (yahm'pah)Uinta county

Ute Indian word. In one dialect means"bear," in another dialect "plant", Austinsays.

ABAJO peak (ah bah ho) San Juan countyEle. 11,445. Sp. means literally "under";

hence the lower peak.• • •

NEW MEXICOALGODONES (ahl go do' nays)

Sandoval countySp. for "cotton fields."

BERNALILLO (ber nah lee' oh) countyLiterally "little Bernard," Sp. proper

name. Several Spanish officials by this nameare mentioned in early accounts.

CHUSCA mountains (choos'kah^McKinley county

Sp. meaning literally "pleasant, happy,merry."

CASA SALAZAR (cah'sa sahl ah zahr)Sandoval county

Literally "the house of Salazar." Therewere several Salazars during the Spanishregime; all army men.

CUBERO (koo bay' roe)Valencia county

Named for Pedro Rodriguez Cubero,Spanish governor of New Mexico, 1697-1703.

• • •NEVADA

DESATOYA Range (des a toy'ah)Churchill county

Pahute word meaning "big black moun-tain."

HUMBOLDT lake, mountains, river, marshNamed for Alexander von Humboldt,

scientist and explorer, founder of Universityof Berlin. River named first by Fremont in1844.

WASHOE mountains (wash oh)Storey county

Washoe Indian word, originally "wassou,"meaning "tall native bunch grass"; may alsobe from Indian word "yassow," meaning"field mouse." Town founded in 1860-61.


DESERT MAGAZINEEL CENTRO, CALIF.

AAbajo Peak, Utah Oct 38 p32Abbott, New Mexico Apr 38 p30Acoma, pueblo, Indian reservation,

New Mexico Mar 38 p28Adair, Arizona Sep 38 p34Adamsville, Arizona Mar 38 p28Adams Well, Arizona Apr 38 p30Admiral, Don. Author of—

No. 1 Adventurer of the Desert....Nov 37 p6This Little Shrub Needs a

Friend Dec 37 p7Water That's Guarded by

Thorns Jan 38 p3A Gentleman with Daggers Feb 38 p3Lily of the Wastelands Mar 38 p7They Learned about Cactus

from Beavertail Apr 38 p3Bitter Food for the Burro May 38 p3Ghost Tree of the Desert Jun 38 p21Weapons for Indians Jul 38 p7

Adobe, construction Sep 38 pl4Adobe, design Dec 37 p26; May 38 p23Agathla Needle, Arizona Aug 38 p28Agua Caliente Indian Reservation....Jan 38 p4Aguanga, California Mar 38 p28Aguirre Peak, Arizona Jul 38 p28Air-conditioning, types Apr 38 p21Air-conditioning, evaporation Apr 38 p24Ajo, Arizona Feb 38 p23Alamogordo, New Mexico Sep 38 p34Albuquerque, New Mexico Feb 38 p23Algodones, New Mexico Oct 38 p32All-American Canal Nov 37 p20Amargosa, mountains, river, mine,

California Jun 38 p24American Geographical Society Oct 38 pl9American Girl Mine May 38 p20American Museum of Natural. History Feb 38 pl6

Anaho Island, Nevada Aug 38 p28Andrade, California Oct 38 p32Andreas Canyon, California Jan 38 pl4Antelope Valley Indian Museum....Aug 38 p5Arboretum, Southwest : Jan 38 p20Archias, J. C Oct 38 pl2Arizola, Arizona Aug 38 p28Army of the West Nov 37 plOArnold, Oren. Author of—

They Found a Market forRattlesnake Bones Apr 38 p8

Anything Can Happen on theDesert '. May 38 p6

Smoki Clan of Prescott Jun 38 pi 5Poiowow Jul 38 p8

Arnold, Oren. Writers of theDesert Apr 38 p34

Arroyo Perico, New Mexico Sep 38 p34Ashley, lake, river, fort, Utah Jun 38 p25Atriplex hymenelytra Dec 37 p7

BBandelier National Monument .... Oct 38 p26Bart, Jonathan. Author of—

Luck Plus Brains Nov 37 pl8Trucks Roll Again at Clifton

and Morenci Dec 37 pl6Bandit Trail Led First Visitors

to Colossal Care Jan 38 p8Barrel Cactus Jan 38 p3Beal's Well, California Oct 38 plOBear Springs, Arizona Mar 38 p28Beavertail Cactus Jun 38 p36Becker, Gustav Aug 38 p3Bent, New Mexico Mar 38 p29Bernalillo County, New Mexico .... Oct 38 p32Big Dry Wash, Arizona May 38 p26Birds, of Grand Canyon Feb 38 plOBisnaga Jan 38 p3Blanchard Crossing, Arizona Jun 38 p24Bloodstone •. Mar 38 pl4Bloody Tanks, Arizona Oct 38 p32Bloxton, Arizona Jul 38 p28Bolinas Ridge, California Jul 38 p28

I N D E XBolsius, Mr. and Mrs. A. P May 38 p23Bolsius, Charles May 38 p23Bonellis Crossing, Arizona Jul 38 p28Bonnieville Lake, Utah Apr 38 p31Book Reviews—

The Land of Little Rain, Austin; Jan 38p30; The Journey of the Flame, Blanco;Dec 37 p29 \Rim of Christendom, Bolton;Feb 38 p27; California Desert Trials, Chase;Oct 38 p28; Serpent Trails, Dannaldson;Jun 38 p27; Spanish Trails to California,De La Rhue; Jan 38 p30 \Desert Wife,Faunce; Jun 38 p26; Under Desert Skies,Grissom; Jul 38 p35; Origin Legends ofthe Navaho Enemy Way, Haile; Jul 38 p34;Westward, High, Low and Dry, Hogner;Jun 38 p26; Camp-Fires on Desert andLava, Hornaday; Nov 37 p35; Cactus For-est, Humphrey; Sep 38 p32; Mesa Land,Ickes; Sep 38 p52 ;The California Deserts,Jaeger; Apr 38 p35; The Enemy Gods, LaFarge; Dec 37 p29; Edge of Taos Desert,I.uhan; Mar 38 p23; Mesa, Canon and Pueblo, Lummis; Oct 38 p28; Cartoon Guideof Arizona, Manning; May 38 p33; Rhythmfor Rain, Nelson; Nov 37 p35; MountainCattle, Rak; Aug 38 p34; Through theWindow of My Heart, Steiner; Mar 38 p23;Songs from the Land of Yucca, Stevenson;Jun 38 p27; The Colorado Delta; Delta,Estuary and Lower Portion of the Channelof the Colorado River 1933 to 1935, Sykes;May 38 p32; Gems—How to Know andCut Them, Thomson; Aug 38 p35; FirstPenthouse Dwellers of America, Underhill;Jul 38 p34; Revolt on the Border, Vestal;Jul 38 p35; The Trail of the Desert Sun,White; Apr 38 p35.

Billy the Kid Sep 38 p36Borego Badlands, California Mar 38 p32Borego Desert, California Nov 37 pl6Boulder Dam Power Plant Apr 38 pi 8Boulder Dam Recreational Area ...- Aug 38 p32Bountiful, Utah Sep 38 p34Bowen, Ruby. Queen of the

the Desert Night Jun 38 plOBowen, Ruby. Writers of the

Desert Jun 38 p25Bowers Ranch, Arizona Apr 38 p30Boyce Thompson Southwest

Arboretum Jan 38 p20Bradley, Mrs. Willard Feb 38 plOBradshaw Stage Road Dec 37 p8Bradshaw, W. D Dec 37 p8Branding irons Sep 38 p21Breyfogle Mine, California Aug 38 p28Brier, Rev. J. W Sep 38 p34Bryce Canyon National Park Apr 38 p31Burroughs, Hulbert. Navajos Call

it Nat-sis-an Aug 38 plOBurroughs, Hulbert. Writers of

the Desert Aug 38 p35Buiroweed May 38 p5Bursera microphylla Nov 37 pl6Butterfield Stage Road Dec 37 p8

cCache County, Utah Jul 38 p29Cactus—

Barrel (Bisnaga) Jan 38 pp3,32Beavertail Apr 38 p3; Jun 38 p36Night-Blooming Cereus Jun 38 plOSaguaro Nov 37 p7; Mar 38 p32

Cairook of the Mojaves Jan 38 plOCajon, pass, settlement, California....Jul 38 p28Calendar of Desert Events Each month piCalico, California May 38 pl6Calico Mountains Oct 38 p8Camel Rock, California Jun 38 p32Camino del Diablo, Arizona Aug 38 p28Campbell, Linwood. Cathedral

Gorge Apr 38 p28Canyon de Chelly May 38 plOCanyon de Ojo Camarillo,

New Mexico Apr 38 p30

Volume 1 - Nos. 1 to 12Nov., 1937 to Oct., 1938

Canyon Springs Stage Station Dec 37 p8Mar 38 pl4

Capillo Peak, New Mexico Sep 38 p34Cargo Muchacho Mountains May 38 p20Carnegie Institution Nov 37 p7Carr, Fletcher A. Bandelier National

Monument Oct 38 p26Carriso Canyon, California May 38 p26Carson City, Nevada Feb 38 p23Carson, Kit Nov 37 plOCasa Grande National Monument....Mar 38 p4Casa Salazar, New Mexico Oct 38 p32Cathedral Gorge State Park,

Nevada Apr 38 p28Cattlemen Sep 38 p21Cereus giganteus Nov 37 p7Cerillos, New Mexico Aug 38 p28Chalcedony roses Jun 38 pl3Chamberlain, W. A Jul 38 p21Charleston Peak, Nevada Nov 37 pl2Chemehuevi Valley, Arizona Sep 38 p34Chin Lee, Arizona May 38 plOChocolate Mountains, California ....Oct 38 plOChuckawalla Mar 38 p32; Apr 38 p36Chuckawalla Desert Nov 37 p9Chuckawalla Spring Feb 38 p32Chuckawalla Well Dec 37 p8Chusca Mountains, New Mexico.... Oct 38 p32Cicuye (Pecos) Pueblo Mission.... Mar 38 p24Cimarron River, New Mexico .... Apr 38 p30Clifton, Arizona Dec 37 pl6Coachella, California Apr 38 p36Coffman, Mrs. Nellie N Jan 38 p4Colorado River—

Aqueduct Jan 38 pl6Control of Apr 38 pl8Development of Nov 37 p20History of Oct 38 p22Navigation of Oct 38 pl9

Colossal Cave, Arizona Jan 38 p8Comstock Lode, Nevada Apr 38 p31Copper mining Dec 37 pl6Corn Springs Oasis, California .... Feb 38 p28Coso, mountains, hot springs, mine,

village, California Aug 38 p28Coyote Jan 38 pl3; Aug 38 p36Coyote Canyon Dec 37 p6Coyote Mountains, California Jan 38 p32Tragen, Dorothy C. Camel Rock....Jun 38 p32Cragen, Dorothy C. Writers of the

Desert Jun 38 p25Creosote Nov 37 p6Crystals Oct 38 plOCubero, New Mexico Oct 38 p32Cuchillo, New Mexico Jul 38 p29Cullen's (Culling's Well),

Arizona Mar 38 p28Cuyamaca, lake, rancho, peak,

California Jul 38 p28

Daggett, California May 38 pl6Daggett, John Oct 38 p8Dalea spinosa Jun 38 pp21, 36Dannaldson, James M. Hunting

Sidewinders Sep 38 p6Dates Aug 38 pi 3Dawson, Glen. Author of

Unclimbed Pinnacle ofthe Desert Feb 38 pl2

They Climbed the Great WhiteThrone Aug 38 pl6

Dawson, Glen. Writers ofthe Desert Aug 38 p35

Day, June. Smoke Trees inFiesta Apr 38 p7

Dead Indian Creek, California .... Apr 38 pl6De Anza, Juan Bautista

Dec 37 p6; May 38 p3; Jul 38 pl2Death Valley Indians Aug 38 p22Deming, New Mexico Apr 38 p30Denny, Edith Litchfield.

Tonto Ruins, a Fantasy Mar 38 plODcsatoya Range, Nevada Oct 38 p32

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 33

Desert Center, California Dec 37 p9Desert Holly Dec 37 p7Desert Laboratory, Tucson Nov 37 p7

Oct 38 pl9Desert Lily Mar 38 p7Desert Museum, Palm Springs .... Apr 38 p34Desert roses Jun 38 pi3Desert Tortoise Jun 38 p22Dinosaur National Monument .... Feb 38 pi 6Dinosaurs Feb 38 pl6Dodge, Henry Chee Jul 38 pl8Dodge, Natt N. Boarding

House for Birds Feb 38 plODon's Club, The Apr 38 p4Dos Palmas, California Dec 37 p8Duncan, Virginia. Trekking for

Treasure Apr 38 p4

EEarl Desert Estates Jul 38 p36Earp, California Apr 38 p30Echinocactus acanthodes Jan 38 p3Edom, California Jun 38 p24Edwards, Mr. and Mrs. Howard

Arden Aug 38 p5Ehrenberg, Hermann Dec 37 p8Elaphrium microphyllum Nov 37 pl6Elephant Tree Nov 37 pl6El Herfanito Mountain,

New Mexico May 38 p26Elizabethtown, New Mexico Jun 38 p24Eloy, Arizona Oct 38 p32Emory, Lt. William Hemsley .... Nov 37 plOEscalante, town, valley, Utah Jun 38 p25Evans, Will Dec 37 pl8

FFewkes, Prof. Jesse Walter Dec 37 pl4Fishing, White Mountains,

Arizona Sep 38 pl2Five Acre Tract Law—

Drafting of rules Aug 38 p23Purpose Jun 38 p3<5Text Jul 38 p35

Flagstaff, Arizona Jul 38 p8Flagstaff Hiking Club Oct 38 pl4Florence, Arizona Sep 38 p34Ford, Walter. Hidden Valley-

Temple of Mystery Jun 38 p6Ford, Walter. Writers of

the Desert Jun 38 p25Fort Barrett, Arizona Sep 38 p34Fort Benson, California Jul 38 p28Fort Bowie, Arizona Oct 38 p32Fort Lowell Canteen, Arizona .... May 38 p23Fouquieria splendens Feb 38 p3Ftanseria dumosa May 38 p5Fraser, Capt. Thomas Oct 38 p22French, New Mexico Jun 38 p24Furnace Creek, California Feb 38 p23

GGallup, New Mex Mar 38 p29; Aug 38 pl8Ganado Mission Hospital Mar 38 pl6Garces, Father Francisco Sep 38 pp3, 36Garnets May 38 pl4Garrison, Lon. Author of—

House of 'dobe Sep 38 pl4Hard Rock Shorty each issue

Garrison, Lon. Writers ofthe Desert May 38 pi 3

Gems Feb 38 p8Bloodstone Mar 38 pl4Chalcedony rose Jun 38 pi 3Garnets May 38 pl4Lapis lazuli Apr 38 pl3Quartz crystals Oct 38 plOTurquoise Jul 38 pl5; Sep 38 p9

Geodes Feb 38 p8; Jun 38 pl4Gerrald, James. Author of—

Adobe Typifies TrueWestern Design Dec 37 p26

Tropics in Your Yard Oct 38 pl2Ghost Tree Jun 38 p21Godshall, Jeanne Oct 38 p21Gold mining Nov 37 p l8 ; May 38 p20Gopherus agassizi Jun 38 p22Gordon, James H Mar 38 pl9Gosiute, mountains, tribal

name, Nevada Jun 38 p24

Goulding, Harry and Mike Jul 38 p4Government Scouts Oct 38 p4Grand Canyon—

Legend Jun 38 pl2National Park Oct 38 p4Village Feb 38 plO

Grapevine Canyon, California .... Apr 38 pl6Gray's Wells, California Jul 38 p29Great White Throne, Utah Aug 38 pl6Grimm, Paul Feb 38 pl5Gunnison, bluff, town, Utah Sep 38 p34

HHale, John P Sep 38 p21Hall, Dick Wick Mar 38 pl2Hall, E. Boyd. Square

Tower, Utah Jul 38 p30Harper's Well, California Oct 38 p32Harrington, John. Author of—

Lost City of the Ancients toVanish Again in Lake Mead...X>ec 37 p4

Harrington, M. R Dec 37 p4Harris Mountain, Arizona May 38 p26Hassayampa River, Arizona Feb 38 p23Hathaway, Walter Oct 38 p22Hattan Point, Arizona Apr 38 p30Havasupai Canyon, Arizona Oct 38 pl4Havasupai Indian Reservation .... Oct 38 pl4Heffernan, Dr. W. T Feb 38 pl4Henderson, Randall. Author of—

He Helps Keep ChuckawallaDesert Dry Nov 37 p9

Looking Down from Nevada's12,000-foot Oasis Nov 37 pl2

For this Army of the West—8000 Grubbing Hoes Nov 37 p20

Palms that Grow in theMud Hills Dec 37 plO

Where Indians Found aDesert Paradise Jan 38 pl4

He Lost His Life's Savings .... Feb 38 pl4Dick Wick's Frog Still Lives

at Salome Mar 38 pl2Dead Indian Creek—

Hiker's Paradise Apr 38 pl6The O'Briens of Palo Verde

Shack May 38 p20Toro is Taboo Jul 38 pl2So They Built a Museum on

the Mojave Aug 38 p5Hesperocallis undulata Mar 38 p7Hidden Springs, California May 38 p36

Sep 38 p30Hidden Valley, California Jun 38 p6Hiking Club, A. S. T. C Oct 38 pl4Hilton, John W. Author of—

Happy Hunting Ground forGem Collectors Feb 38 p8

Bloodstone in the Orocopias .... Mar 38 pl4Gems that Adorned

Egypt's Mummies Apr 38 pi 3Garnets Are Where You

Find Them May 38 pl4Desert Roses that Never Fade ...Jun 38 pi 3Indian Jewelry—Genuine

and Imitation Jul 38 pi 5Turquoise on the Mojave Sep 38 p9Rock that Looks Like Ice Oct 38 plO

Hilton, John W. Writers ofthe Desert Jan 38 p6

Hohokam Ruin Mar 38 p4Holmes, Kenneth Nov 37 pl8Homesteads, veterans' rights Nov 37 p21Hopi Snake Dance .... Dec 37 pl4; Jun 38 pl5

Oct 38 p37Horsethief Canyon, California .... Sep 38 p34Hotevilla Dec 37 pl4Hovenweep National Monu-

ment Jul 38 p30Howard, Adrian. White Mountain

Smith of the Petrified Forest .... Oct 38 p4Howell, Wilson Jul 38 pl2Hueco Mountains, New Mexico.... Aug 38 p28Hughes, Tom. Mystery Sea of

the Desert Oct 38 p22Huey, Laurence M. Author of—

Coyote Jan 38 pl2Willie of Death Valley Aug 38 p22

Humboldt, lake, mountains,river, marsh, Nevada Oct 38 p32

Hunt, Elisha Sep 38 p8

IImperial Valley—

All-American Canal lands Nov 37 p20Flooding of Oct 38 p22History of ., Feb 38 pl4Irrigation of Apr 38 pl8

Independence, California Mar 38 p28Indian jewelry Jul 38 p l5 ; Sep 38 p9Indian legends—

Cahuilla Jun 38 p l8 ; Jul 38 pl2Death Valley Sep 38 p9Navajo Feb 38 p6Papago Jun 38 plO

Indian Powwow at Flagstaff Jul 38 p8Indian Research Museum,

Mojave Desert Aug 38 p5Indians —

Cahuilla Jan 38 pp4, 14Death Valley Aug 38 p22; Sep 38 p9Havasupai Oct 38 pl4Hopi Dec 37 pl4; Feb 38 p4

Jun 38 p l5 ; Sep 38 p3Oct 38 p37

Mojave Jan 38 plO; Sep 38 pp3, 9Navajo Dec 37 p l8 ; Mar 38 pl6

May 38 plO; Jul 38 plSOct 38 p37

Pahute Sep 38 p9Yuma May 38 p3; Sep 38 p3

Indians, prehistoric ....Dec 37 p4; Feb 38 p20Mar 38 plO; Sep 38 p9

Indio Mud Hills Dec 37 plOIntertribal Indian Ceremonial .... Aug 38 pl8

Oct 38 p37Irateba, Chief of Mojaves Jan 38 plOIronwood Tree Jul 38 p7Ivanpah, California Apr 38 p30Ives, Lt. Joseph C Jan 38 plOIzac Bill Jun 38 p36; Jul 38 p35

Aug 38 p23

IJacumba, village, hot springs,

California Mar 38 p23Jemez, mountains, Indian reserva-

tion, pueblo, town, springs, statepark, New Mexico Jun 38 p24

Johnston, F. R. Art Gallery ofAncient Indians Feb 38 p20

Joshua Tree National Monument....Jun 38 p6Joshua Tree Forest Jul 38 p21Joshua Trees Sep 38 p8Juab County, Utah Oct 38 p32Julian, California Jun 38 p24

KKaibab National Forest Apr 38 p31Kanab, plateau, village,

creek, Utah Jul 38 p29Katcina dolls Dec 37 pl4Keagle, Cora L. Author of—

Mother of a Ghost Town May 38 pl<SOdessa Canyon in the Calicos Oct 38 p8

Keagle, Cora L. Writers of theDesert May 38 pl3

Kearney, Gen. Stephen W Nov 37 plOKeiser, W. G . Stone Cabin, Ariz Aug 38 p30Kelly, Charles. Graveyard of

the Gods Jul 38 p4Kelly, Charles. Writers of the

Desert Jul 38 p33Kennedy, Fleming. Perpetual Ice

Box on the Desert Apr 38 plOKing, Mrs. Laura May 38 pl6Kino, Father Eusebio Sep 38 p3Kofa (S. H.) Mountains ... Jun 38 pl3Kunz, George Frederic Sep 38 p9

Lacy, Hugh. Say That I KeptMy Dream Sep 38 pl8


Lamb, Tazewell H. Author of—Master of the Colorado Apr 38 pl862 Years a Trader in

Apache Land Aug 38 p3Lamy, New Mexico Mar 38 p28La Paz, Arizona Dec 37 p8Lapis lazuli Apr 38 pi3Larrea divaricata Nov 37 p6Las Vegas, peak, mountain range,

city, Nevada :. Aug 38 p28Lava, Arizona Jun 38 p24Law, Raymond F. Story of the

Range Told in Branding Irons....Sep 38 p21Lederer, August Feb 38 p28Lehman Caves National Monument..Dec 37 pl2Leland, Zee. Writers of the Desert. Jun 38 p25Little Bangor, mining, lumber

camp, Nevada Jul 38 p29Los Patos, California Aug 38 p28Lost City, Nevada Dec 37 p4Lost City Museum, Overton Dec 37 p4Lost Dutchman Mine Apr 38 p4

MMacClary, John Stewart. Author of—

He Links Stone Age withSteel Age Dec 38 pl8Graveyard of the Mammoths ....Feb 38 ploTrail-Blazer to Rainbow Bridge....Jun 38 p4The Feel of the Desert each issue

MacClary, John Stewart. Writers ofthe Desert Dec 37 pl9

MacDougal, Dr. D. T Nov 37 p7Oct 38 pl9

Mangel, John J. Summer Comfortfor Desert Dwellers Apr 38 p21

Manning, Reg. Writers of theDesert May 38 pi3

Maughan's Fort, Utah Sep 38 p34McKenney, J. Wilson. Author of—

The Desert Under a Microscope...Nov 37 p7Bold Emory Nov 37 plOGold Builds a Road Dec 37 p8Heat and Hardrock Not Terrifying

to These Desert Invaders Jan 38 pl6Yuma's Sunshine Reporter Mar 38 pl9Just an Old Army Canteen .... May 38 p23They Defied the Devil-God

of San Jacinto Jun 38 pl8Roadside Date Shop on the

Desert Aug 38 pi3Sykes, of the American Desert ....Oct 38 pl9

McSparron, L. H May 38 plOMeadows, Mobley Sep 38 p34Mentone, California Aug 38 p28Mesilla, New Mexico Mar 38 p29Metropolitan Water District Jan 38 pl6

Jun 38 pl8Miller, R. DeWitt. Saga of the

Walking Rock Jun 38 p22Minden, Nevada Jun 38 p24Minor, Mr. and Mrs. Will H Dec 37 p26Moapa, town, Indian reserva-

tion, Nevada Jul 38 p29Mogollon, mountains, town,

New Mexico May 28 p26Mohave County, Arizona May 38 p26Montgomery, Mr. and Mrs. T.M Nov 37 p25Monument Peak, Arizona Feb 38 pl2Monument Valley, Utah Jul 38 p4Mooney Falls, Arizona Oct 38 pl4Morena Lake, California Apr 38 p30Morenci, Arizona Dec 37 pl6Mormon Battalion Nov 37 plOMormons Sep 38 p8Moroni, Utah Mar 38 p29Mt. Charleston Recreational Area.--.Nov 37 pl2Mt. Davidson, Nevada Jul 38 p29Mt. Linnaeus, Utah May 38 p26Mount Rose, Nevada Sep 38 p34Mountain Climbing—

Charleston Peak Nov 37 pl2Great White Throne Aug 38 pl6Monument Peak Feb 38 pl2Navajo Mountain Aug 38 plOSanta Rosa Mountains Jul 38 pi 2

Muscupiabe, California Jun 38 p24Music Mountains, Arizona Apr 38 p30

NNational Park Rangers Oct 38 pp4, 37Nat-sis-an Aug 38 plONavajo Blankets Jan 38 p21Navajo Mountain, Utah Aug 38 plONavajo Indian Reservation May 38 plONeedles, The, Arizona Feb 38 p23Nevada National Forest Nov 37 pl2Nicholson, Ed Nov 37 pl8Nicoll, Russell C Aug 38 pl3Night-Blooming Cereus Jun 38 plONightingale, A. H Jul 38 pl2

oO'Brien, Mr. and Mrs. John J May 38 p20Obregon, California May 38 p20Ocotillo Feb 38 p3Odessa Canyon, California Oct 38 p8Odessa Mine Oct 38 p8Ogden, river, city, Utah Mar 38 p29Olancha, town, peak, mine, Calif Feb 38 p23Olneya tesota Jul 38 p7Oraibi Dec 37 pl4Orejas del Oso Ridge, Utah Jun 38 p25Orocopia Mountains....Mar 38 pl4; Sep 38 p30Osborn, Juliet. On the Trail to

Havasupai Oct 38 pl4Osborne, Merlyne M. Famed Guests

Play in her Sandpile Jan 38 p4Overton Museum Dec 37 p4Owens, river, valley, lake, Calif Oct 38 p32Owyhee River, Nevada Jul 38 p29

PPage, John C Jan 38 p7Pahranagat Lakes, Nevada Aug 38 p28Pahute May 38 p36Palma, Chief Salvador May 38 p3Palms Dec 37 plO; Jul 38 p36Palm Springs, California Dec 37 p32

Jan 38 pp4, 14Palomar Mountain, California Oct 38 p32Palo Verde Valley .... Nov 37 p20; Apr 38 pl8Paragonah, Utah Jun 38 p25Parker Dam Apr 38 pl8Parks, Wilfred. Gift of the Genii-.Jun 38 pi 2Parks, Wilfred. Writers of the

Desert Jun 38 p25Parosela spinosa Jun 38 p21Patton, Harry Oct 38 p22Pavatea, Tom Feb 38 p4Paxton, June Le Mert. Creed of

the Desert each month piPaxton, June Le Mert. Writers

of the Desert Apr 38 p34Pelton, Agnes Apr 38 p7Peniocereus greggii Jun 38 plOPennington, Wm. M.

Photographs by Nov 37 pl3Dec 37 pi3; Jan 38 pl9; Feb 38 p7Mar 38 pl8; Apr 38p 15; May 38 p9Jun 38 p9; Jul 38 pl7; Aug 38 p9

Sep 38 pl7; Oct 38 pl8Pennington, Wm. M Nov 37 pi 5Perpetual Ice Cave, New Mexico....Apr 38 plOPetrified Flowers Jun 38 pl3Petrified Forest National

Monument Oct 38 p4Petroglyphs Feb 38 p20; Sep 38 p9Phelps-Dodge Corporation Dec 37 pl6Photographs, contest winners—

Chuck Abbott, May 38 pl8; Ralph H. An-derson, Mar 38 p3; Jun 38 p3; Mary Beal,Oct 38 p3; Frank Bogert, May 38 pl9; Ar-thur Buckwalter, Aug 38 p2; Edmund P.Burke, Feb 38 p2; George Clayton, May38 p2; Emil Eger, Jul 38 p7; Walter Ford,Jan 38 p2; Cal Godshall, Apr 38 p2; H. P.Gower, Apr 38 p2; Weldon F. Heald, Jul38 p2; Gladys Knight, Feb 38 p ; Ethel M.McClarren, Mar 38 p27; Jerry McLain, Sep38 p2; Claire Meyer Proctor, Jan 38 p2;Aug 38 p2; Wm. Schiller, May 38 pl8; BillSmith, May 38 pl8; N. J. Strumquist, Oct38 p3; Harold R. Taylor, May 38 p2; A.Wiederseder, Jun 38 p3.

Picket Post House Jan 38 p20Pictographs Jan 38 pl4Pinacate Expedition, Sonora Nov 37 p7

Pinkley, Frank S Sep 38 pl4Piute County, Utah Oct 38 p32Poems by—

Doris I. Bateman, Jun 38 p2, Aug 38 p21;K. V. Bennis, Jun 38 p2; Jul 38 p l l ; Wm.Blauvelt, Jul 38 p l l ; Ruby Bowen, Jun38 p l l ; E. A. Brininstool, May 38 p22,Jul 38 p l l ; D. Maitland Busby, May 38p22; Doris Caldwell, Feb 38 p26; RobertaChilders, Jul 38 p35; Mildred E. Christie,Oct 38 p29; Luella Clewell, Oct 38 p29;Nellie N. Coffman, Nov 37 p3; Florence R.Corby, Sep 38 p27; Alwilda Draper, Jun38 p2; Louise Eaton, Nov 37 p37; Irma P.Forsythe, May 38 p22, Aug 38 p21; Wm.M. Gailbraith, Mar 38 p22; Hazel Goff,Mar 38 p22; Marty Hale, Jun 38 p2, Sep38 p27; Franklin E. Ham, Apr 38 pl2;"Hobo Miner," Feb 38 p26; Emily BeachHogan, Aug 38 p21; Tom Hughes, Nov37 p34; Thelma Ireland, Feb 38 p26, Aug38 p21, Oct 38 p29; Marion Ives, Apr 38pl2; Mary Lane, Feb 38 p26; Zee Leland,Jun 38 p2; Harriett Markham, Mar 38 p22;Nell Murbarger, Sep 38 p27; John ArthurNelson, Apr 38 pl2; "O. Cotillo," Apr 38pl2; Sheila O'Neill, Jun 38 p2; Chas. W.Patch, Sep 38 p27; Nina Paul, Dec 37 p2;June Le Mert Paxton, Feb 38 p26; Mary E.Perdew, Mar 38 p22; Oct 38 p29; AdeliaM. Prudden, Mar 38 p22, Jan 38 p29;Lesta Purcell, Apr 38 pl2; Roberta Rober-son, Mar 38 p22; Louise C. Rutz, Jun 38p2; Alice R. Salisbury, Jun 38 p2; "ScottyMac," Mar 38 p22; Elizabeth Snow, Jul 38p l l ; Lois Elder Steiner, Mar 38 p22, Apr38 pl2, May 38 p22, Jun 38 p2; Anna B.Stevenson, Aug 38 p21; A. V. Storer, Oct38 p29; Audrey Stratton, Aug 38 p21;Blanche B. Williamson, Jan 38 p29; RuthE. Willis, May 38 p22; Edward Winterer,Mar 38 p22; Jeff Worth, Jan 38 p29, May38 p 22.

Pojuate River, New Mexico Aug 38 p28Powwow, Flagstaff Jul 38 p8Puerto de Luna, New Mexico .... Jul 38 p29Pushawalla Canyon, California .... Dec 37 plOPyramid Lake, Nevada Apr 38 p30

QQuartz crystals Oct 38 plO

RRagsdale, Carmine. Corn Springs

Oasis Feb 38 p28Ragsdale, Steve Nov 37 p9

Jul 38 pi2Ragtown, Nevada Apr 38 p31Rainbow Bridge, Utah Jun 38 p4Rattlesnakes Dec 37 pl2; Apr 38 p8

Sep 38 p6Reclamation Bureau.... Nov 37 p20; Jan 38 p7Reno, Nevada May 38 p26Rockwood, C. R Feb 38 pl4Rocky Mountain Club Aug 38 p33Ross, Lillian Bos. Lost Tree in a

Lonely Land Nov 37 pl6Ruess, Everett Sep 38 pl8Ruidoso, New Mexico Sep 38 p34Rutz, Louise C. Thousands Play on

Uncle Sam's Big White Sandpile....Mar38 p8

sSage Memorial Hospital Mar 38 pl6Saguaro Cactus Nov 37 p7; Mar 38 p32Salome, Arizona Mar 38 pi2Salsbury, Dr. Clarence G Mar 38 pl6Salt Lake City, Utah Jul 38 p29Salton Sink Oct 38 p22San Bernardino, California Sep 38 p8Sandstone, home construction .... Nov 37 p25Sand Tank Canyon, California .... Feb 38 p20San Jacinto Mountain, Calif Jan 38 pl4Sand Painting Dec 37 pl8; Jul 38 p8Santa Rosa Mountains,

Calif Apr 38 pl6; Jul 38 pl2Stboyeta, New Mexico Aug 38 p28Sedaye Mountains, Nevada Sep 38 p34Seventeen Palms Oasis, Calif May 38 p30Sharrow, Albert Apr 38 pl8

O C T O B E R , 1 9 3 8 35

Shiprock, New Mexico Feb 38 p6Aug 38 p33

Shreve, Dr. Forrest Nov 37 p7Sidewinders Sep 38 p6Sierra Club of California Nov 37 pl2

Feb 38 pl2; Apr 38 pl6; Aug 38 pl6Silver mining May 38 pl6; Oct 38 p8Silver Queen Mine Nov 37 pl8Smith, White Mountain Oct 38 p4Smith, Mrs. White Mountain. Author of—

Tom Pavatea, Hopi Trader Feb 38 p4White Medicine Man of the

Navajos Mar 38 pl6Trader at Thunderbird May 38 plOHenry Chee Dodge, Navajo Jul 38 pl8/ Caught a Trout Sep 38 pl2

Smoke Tree Jun 38 pp21, 36Smoki People Jun 38 pl5Southwest Arboretum, Arizona .... Jan 38 p20Southwest Museum, Los Angeles .... Dec 37 p4Springerville, Arizona Aug 38 p3Square Tower, Utah Jul 38 p30Stewart, William David. Men Who

Carve Dolls and Dance WithSerpents Dec 37 pl4

Stone Cabin, Arizona Aug 38 p30Storey, Nevada Sep 38 p34Stovall, Dennis H. How Joshua

Trees Were Named Sep 38 p8Stow, W. W Oct 38 p8Superstition Mountain,

Arizona Feb 38 p23; Apr 38 p4Sykes, Godfrey Oct 38 pl9

TTall Tales—Contest winners—

Frank Beckwith Aug 38 p26Carlyle Ellis Sep 38 p24Will Strong Oct 38 p25

Tandberg, L G. Cooling the Desertby Evaporation Apr 38 p24

Tanner, Clara Lee. Boyce ThompsonArboretum Jan 38 p20

Tecolote, New Mexico Jul 38 p29Tem Piute, Nevada Jun 38 p24

Tehachapi, mountains, pass, town,California Mar 38 p28

Thatcher, Ted O Dec 37 pl2Thiel, Mrs. E. Hidden Springs Sep 38 p30Thomas Peak, Arizona Feb 38 p23Thunderbird Trading Post May 38 plOTimpahute Range, Nevada Jun 38 p24Tioga, grade, pass, California Apr 38 p30Tonto National Monument Mar 38 plOTooele, Utah Aug 38 p28Toquima Mountains, Nevada Jun 38 p24Toro Peak, California Jul 38 pl2Tortoise Jun 38 p22Tramperos Creek, New Mexico.... May 38 p26Tropical garden Oct 38 pi2Truckee River, Nevada Jun 38 p24Turqoise Jul 38 p i5 ; Sep 38 p9Tuscarora, mountains, town,

Nevada May 38 p26

uUinta, county, river, Utah Feb 38 p23Uncompahgre Indian Reservation....Aug 38 p28Utah Aug 38 p28

VValerie Jean Date Shop Aug 38 pi3Van Name, E. J. Craftsman of the

Joshua Forest Jul 38 p21Van Orsdel, Addie Lee Mar 38 pl2Vasquez Rocks, California Apr 38 p30Vermillion Cliffs, Arizona Mar 38 p28Veterans' Homestead Rights,

summary Nov 37 p21Victorville Nonprofessional

Rodeo Oct 38 p21Virginia City, Nevada Mar 38 p29wWah Wah, mountains, valley,

Utah Jun 38 p25Walpi Dec 37 pl4Warne, William E. He is Bringing

Water to a Thirsty Desert Jan 38 p7Warners, hot springs, rancho,

California Sep 38 p34

Washingtonia filifera Dec 37 plOJul 38 p36

Washoe Mountains, Nevada Oct 38 p32Watson, Ruth. Ruins of Cicuye

(Pecos) Mar 38 p2<iWeather Mar 38 pl9; Apr 38 pp21, 24Weaver, Pauline Mar 38 p4Welch, Bonnie May 38 pi5Wetherill, John Jun 38 p4Whispering Mountain, Arizona .... Jul 38 p28White Mountains, Arizona Sep 38 pl2White Sands National Monument.-.-Mar 38 p8Wild Horse Mesa Aug 38 plOWilliams, Don and Mary Apr 38 p8Willie of Death Valley Aug 38 p22Wilson, H. E. W. Seventeen

Palms Oasis May 38 p30Winnemucca, Nevada Mar 38 p29Winship, Utah Oct 38 p32Wolman, Larry D. Author of—

Milking Time for theRattlers Dec 37 pl2The Desert is Her Workshop....May 38 pi5

Woodward, Arthur. Author of—Irateba, Big Injun of the

Mohaves Jan 38 plOPauline Weaver of the

Restless Feet Mar 38 p4Capitan Palma of the Yumas .... May 38 p3Padre of the Uncharted

Desert Sep 38 p3Woodward, Arthur. Writers of the

Desert Sep 38 p33Worth, Jeff. Author of—

The Prospector Nov 37 p34Nature's Emergency Stations .... Jan 38 p28

YYampa Plateau, Utah Oct 38 p32Yellowstone National Park Oct 38 p4Yuma, Arizona Mar 38 pl9; Apr 38 pl8

May 38 p3; Sep 38 p3

zZion National Park Aug 38 pl6

ffoln

the DesertProspectors'C l u b . .

L^kar's £~jold in them Golkar rospecls

Paraphrasing the oft-repeated line of the burro-man, we invite you to join in the search fortreasure.

You do not have to tramp the desert hills on thisadventure. All you have to do is visit your friendsand neighbors, get them to subscribe to the DesertMagazine. There are liberal commissions for youin this pleasant part-time work.SEND IN THE COUPON BELOW OR WRITE FOR PARTICULARS.

No OBLIGATION.

DESERT MAGAZINEEL CENTRO, CALIF.Please send me complete information about membership in theDesert Prospectors' Club.

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r^l^A S?̂

IZetu/een

BY RANDALL HENDERSON

.O am indebted to Richard Van Valkenburgh, ethnolo-gy ^'St m ^ e "n<^'an Service, for one of the most interest-•*' ing experiences in a two-week vacation in Arizona and

New Mexico.One afternoon late in August Van invited me to go with

him to visit his friend Ayoo'anlh nezi, a Navajo medicineman whose summer hogan is deep in the cool pine forestwhich covers the higher elevations of the Navajo reserva-tion in northeastern Arizona.

My companion received a friendly welcome at the hogan.His friendship for the Indians is genuine—and the Navajossense it. I can understand his liking for these nomadic tribes-men. Their hospitality was reserved, but none the less sincere.

During the 24 hours we were at the camp I got an intimatepicture of the daily life of Ayoo'anlh nezi and his wife andtwo children, from the butchering of a sheep to providebarbecued mutton for the evening meal to the weaving ofthe rug that later would be taken to the trader to exchangefor sugar and flour and cotton goods.

White parents would marvel at the industry and obedienceof these Navajo children. One of the reasons for this disci-pline is the gentle manner in which the Indians address eachother. During the time I was at the hogan I never heard avoice raised in impatience or command—not even when abattle-scarred old rooster annoyed the 11-year-old girl withhis persistent efforts to rush in and grab a bit of dough fromthe pan in which she was making bread. She shooed him awaywith a soft-spoken Navajo word that I would have taken foran expression of endearment under any other circumstances.

The little girl—I would not attempt to spell her Navajoname—had a new experience that evening, and so did I.There was a box of marshmallows in my grub kit and Itaught her to toast them over the campfire on the end of astick. She accepted the first one gingerly—but after tastingthe candy her eyes twinkled with enjoyment.

At the Hopi snake dance at Shongopavi I saw a youngmember of the Snake clan—he could not have been morethan 10 years old—bitten by a rattlesnake as he performedhis part of the ritual with the reptile in his mouth. Thespectators shuddered as they saw the rattler sink its fangsin his hand. The Indian lad never flinched.

The Hopi guard carefully the secret of their immunity tosnake venom. Various theories have been advanced by whiteobservers. One of my friends who has witnessed many of theceremonies and knows the Hopi as well perhaps as any whiteperson, believes they immunize themselves with injections ofthe serum over a period of time preceding the dance. Anothertheory is that the snakes are "milked" of their poison justbefore the dance.

Of the 22 clansmen who handled the thirty-odd snakes inthe dance nearly half of them were boys under 12 years ofage. The Hopi take their religion seriously. If white folks

had as much faith in their God as do these Indians in theirtribal deities the world would be at peace.

The Hopi depend for their food on a rainfall of onlyeight inches a year. As dry land farmers I believe they arethe world's best. They grow corn and beans on a desert whichany other farmer would regard as only fit for sagebrush andlizards.

Without doubt the most gorgeous Indian ceremonial pro-gram held in America each year is the three-day inter-tribalspectacle arranged by M. L. Woodard and his associates ofthe Gallup, New Mexico, chamber of commerce.

Tribesmen from all over the Southwest take part in thefestival. Some of the Indians appeared to enjoy the glamourof the show. Others evidently were bored by it. If I had beenone of the judges I would have awarded first prize in theparade to the 15 Zuni women who marched down the streetsingle file with beautifully decorated water jars balanced ontheir heads.

Perhaps we should borrow this balancing art from theZuni and make it compulsory in all American schools. Itdevelops poise and grace. A young lady with stoopedshoulders and a sloppy carriage would have a dreadful timekeeping a jar on her head.

I believe the most courteous people on Uncle Sam's payrollare the rangers on duty at the national parks and monuments.I met several of them on this trip—Frank Pinkley, superin-tendent of Southwestern Monuments, at Casa Grande; M. R.Tillotson at Grand Canyon, White Mountain Smith at Petri-fied Forest, Johnwill Faris at Canyon de Chelly, David Jones,who lives in one of the restored rooms of the old Indiandwellings at Wupatki monument, and Carol Miller at Aztecruins—these and many of the rangers who serve under them.

It is a refreshing experience to get away from the world ofwar and crime and petty personal strife and spend a few dayswith the men who art custodians of the great outdoor play-grounds. This is a grand old world after all, when you goto places not disturbed by human greed and ignorance.

The day I visited the Petrified Forest, Ranger Reg Browncaught a trio of motor tourists trying to leave the monumentwith some fine large specimens of agatized wood they hadpicked up on the public reserve.

When he told them in his polite southern accent it wasagainst the rules they mistook his courtesy for weakness andtried to bully him. And then they learned their mistake—and in the end they puffed back up the hill and depositedtheir souvenirs in the exact spot from which they had beenstolen.

If the Democrats and Republicans don't figure out howto run this country very soon, I am in favor of rounding upall the politicians and putting them in a corral at the northpole, and turning the government over to the park rangers.

'Caterpillar7 Changes the Desert's FaceWith a wide-throated roar, a D-7 "Caterpillar"

tractor moved across the desert of northern ImperialCounty, Calif., scraping the face of the desert clean ofboulders and brush in order that automobiles mayeventually speed smoothly by. Under direction ofSupervisor B. M. Graham, a construction crew lastmonth used a "Caterpillar" to forge the last link in theInternational Four States Highway between Nilandand Blythe.

Where temperatures daily ran over 120 degreesF., where water was scarce and supplies many milesdistant, where the terrain was rough and the job diffi-

cult, "Caterpillar" demonstrated its reliability andstamina. Under the most trying conditions "Caterpillar"performed faithfully and economically.

In highway construction, in clearing desert landand carving out irrigation projects, or in any of themany farm power jobs it is called to do, "Caterpillar"always demonstrates its superiority.

"Caterpillar" has taken a major part in the physicaldevelopment of the desert southwest. As man pusheshis civilization further and further into the desertareas, "Caterpillar" remains in the vanguard of themarch of progress.

BEN HULSEEL CENTRO YUMA

Tractor andEquipment

BRAWLEY

CO

193810 desert magazine 1938 october

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