197006 desert magazine 1970 june

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D e s e r t M a g a z in e B oSOUTHWESTERN INDIAN ARTS& CRAFTS by TomBahti. Beautifully illustrated with 4-color photo-graphs, this book describes the arts and craftsof the Indians of the Southwest and offers sug-gestions on w h a t to buy and how to judgeauthentic jewelry, rugs, baskets and pottery.Large format, heavy paperback, 32 pages,$1 .00 .

NEW MEXICO PLACE NAMES editedby T. M.Pearce. Lists and gives a concise history of theplaces, towns, former sites, mountains, mesas,rivers, etc., in New Mexico, including thoseset-tled by the early Spaniards. Good for treasurehunters, bottle collectors and history buffs.Paperback, 187 pages with more than 5000names, $2.45.

GHOST TOWNS OF NEW MEXICO by MichaelJenkinson and Karl Kernberger. This exception-ally well written volume is more than a ghosttown gu ide . It spans the history of New Mexicofrom the past to the present and brings back tolife the conquistadors, gunmen, miners, mer-chants and politicians who won the West. Kern-berger's photographs are gallery quality. Hard-cover, quality paper, large format, 153 pages.$7 .50 . Makes an excellent gift.

SOUTHWEST INDIAN CRAFT ARTSby Clara LeeTanner. One of the best books on the subject,covering all phases of the culture of the In-dians of the Southwest. Authentic in every way.Color and black and white illustrations, linedrawings. Hardcover, 205 pages. $15.00.

LOST MINES OF ARIZONA by Harold Weight.Covers the Lost Jabonero, lost mines of theTrigos, Buried Gold of Bicuner and others ofsouthwestern Arizona. Paperback, $2.00.

OLD MINESAND GHOST CAMPS OF NEW MEXI-CO by Fayette Jones. Reprinted from New Mexi-co Mines and Minerals, 1905. Covers mines andcamps up to that date only. Descriptive land-marks make it easy for a reader to identify lo-cations. Illustrated with photos and digrams.Paperback, 214 pages, $4.00.

A FIELD GUIDE TO WESTERN BIRDS by RogerTory Peterson. The standard book for field iden-tification sponsored by the National AudubonSociety. 2nd edition, enlarged with new sectionon Hawaiian birds. 658 in full color. Hardcover.$4 .95 .

THE DESERT LAKEby Sessions S. Wheeler. Thestory of Nevada's intriguing Pyramid Lake,itsancient history, archeological finds, geology,fish and bird life. Paperback. $2.50.

ROCKS AND MINERALS OF CALIFORNIA byBrown and Allan. Descriptions, maps, illustra-tions in color. Paper. $3.25.

100 ROADSIDE FLOWERSby Natt N. Dodge. Acompanion book to his 100 DESERT WILDFLOW-E RS, this book lists 100 flowers growing in the4 , 5 0 0 to 7,000 foot levels. Like the companionbook, every flower is illustrated in 4-colorphotographs. Excellent to carry in car duringweekend trips for family fun. Paperback, 64pages, $1.50.

WESTERN CAMPSITE DIRECTORYby the Editorsof Sunset Books. Just published, this book listsmore than 5000 private and public camp-grounds in the 1 1 weste rn states and BritishColumbia and Western Alberta, including hun-dreds of new campsites to care for the everincreasing amount of people taking to the openroad. Just right for planning a vacation. Largeformat, slick paperback, illustrated, 128 pages,$ 1 . 9 5 .

Southwest

IN D IA N C O U N T R Y

SOUTHWESTINDIAN COUNTRY

Cognizant of the renewed interest in theculture and crafts of the Southwest In-dians, the editors of Sunset Books havecompiled a concise and comprehensivebook covering the 48 reservations andPueblo villages in Arizona, Utah, NewMexico and Colorado. The travel guidecontains information on what to see, howto buy, white man's correct conduct andhistory of the Indians, plus illustrationsof the varied arts and crafts. Large for-mat, colored illustrations, heavy paper-back, 80 pages.

$1.95

GHOSTS OF THE ADOBE WALLSby Nell Murbar-ger, the we ll know n "roving reporterof thedesert." An intimate chronicle of Arizona's once-booming mining towns, stage stations, armyposts, marauding Indians and fantastic humancharacters. 380 pages, illustrated. Hardcover,$7 .50 .

ESTEVANICO THE BLACK by John Upton Terrell.The discoverer of Arizona, New Mexico andCibola was actually an African slave who wasfinally slain by Indians because he lived toowel l , according to this well documented andcontroversial book. Excellent reading by theauthor of Journey Into Darkness, Black Robes,and other histories of the West. Hardcover, 155pages, $6.95.

TERRIBLE TRAIL:the Meek Cutoff, 1845 by Clarkand Tiller. Narrates the tragic tale of the Meekemigrant train and lays the groundwork for asolution to the Blue Bucket lost go ld . $4 .00 .

STANDING UP COUNTRY by C. Gregory Cramp-t o n . Best book ever written about Utah-Arizonacanyon country. Superb color. $15.

WHEN ORDERING BOOKSPLEASE

Add 50 cents PER ORDER(Not Each Book)

for handling and mailing

CALIFORNIA RESIDENTS ALSOADD 5 PERCENT SALESTAX

Send check or money order to Desert Maga-zine Book Shop, Palm Desert, California92260. Sorry, but we cannot accept charges

or C.O.D. orders.

SOUTHWESTERN INDIAN TRIBESby Tom BahtiAn excellent description, history and currenstatus of the Indians of the Southwest, includindates of their ceremonies and celebrations. Pro-fusely illustrated with 4-color photographsofthe Indian Country and the arts and crafts ofthe many tribes. Large format, heavy paperback, 72 pages, $2.00.

EXPLORING CALIFORNIA BYWAYS DESERTCOUNTRY by Russ Leadabrand. The author takesyo u on 1 1 trips throug h the desert country ofCalifornia, including both passenger car andfour-wheel-drive excursions. An excellent andauthoratative writer, he also brings in historicabackground. This is Volume Three. Volume Onecovers the Kings Canyon to the Mexican Bordeand Volume Two, trips around Los Angeles. Alare paperback, well illustrated with photosanddetailed maps. Each book is $1.95. WHENOR-DERING BE CERTAIN TO STATE VOLUMENUM-BER: ONE, TWO or THREE.

JEEP TRAILS TO COLORADO GHOST TOWNSbyRobert L. Brown. An i l lustrated, detailed, infomal history of life in the mining camps deep inColorado Rockies. Fifty-eight townsare includethe almost inaccessible mountain fastness of theas examples of the vigorous struggle for existence in the mining camps of the West. 239pages, illustrated, end sheet map. Hardcove$5 .50 .

CALIFORNIA, A Guide to the Golden StateEdited by Harry Hansen and newly revised,contains an encyclopedia of facts from earldays up to the Space Age. Mile by mile de-scriptions to camping spots and commercial ac-commodations. Maps. Hardcover, $8.95.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIAby the Editors of Sun-set Books. An illustrated guide to Southern Calfornia, this is another in Sunset Books series.presents in capsule form most of the interestinplaces to visit in the Southland. Heavy pape

back, 8 x 1 1 format, 128 pages, $1.95.GHOSTS OF THE GLORY TRAILby Nell Murbager is a fast moving chronicle of Western boomcamp and bonanza. Rich in human interest awel l as authentic history, this book covers ghotowns of Nevada, western Utah and easterCalifornia. Hardcover, 291 pages. Price $6.7

A FIELD GUIDETO ROCKS AND MINERALS bFrederick H. Pough. Authoritative guide to idetification of rocks and minerals. Experts recommend this for all amateurs as one of the be3rd edition with many new color illustratioHardcover. $4.95.

GHOST TOWNS OF THE COLORADO ROCKby Robert L. Brown. Written by the author oJeep Trails to Colorado Ghost Towns this bo

deals with ghost towns accessible by passenge r car. Gives directions and maps for finditowns along with historical backgrounds. Hacover, 401 pages, $6.25.

THE GILA riverof the southwest by Edwin CorlIllustrated by Ross Santee. Marvelous combintion of history, geography, anecdote and atmophere written with sophistication, wit and au-thority. Now in paperback, 400 pages. $1.60

NAVAJO RUGS, PAST, PRESENT AND FUTUREbGilbert S. Maxwell. Concerns the history, legenand descriptions of Navajo rugs. Full cophotos. Paper, $2.50.

1200 BOTTLES PRICEDby John C. Tibbitts. Updated edition of one of the best of the bottbooks. $4.50.

FOR COMPLETE BOOK CATALOG WRITETO DESERT MAGAZINE, PALM DESERT, CALIFORNIA 92260


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( A I N B O W ' SE N D . . .

begins with a

T R E A S U R E L O C AT O R '

" C O M M A N D E R "7 20This GoId a k Tr e a s u r eLocator is unsurpassed forlocating buried treasure,coins. Civil War relics andfor beachcombing. Features"Tell-Tone" Signal. Locatesany metal object under dir t,sand, mud, rock, etc. Nocumbersome cord s-com -pletely transistorized, bat-tery powered.

When it comes to find-ing your pot of gold, gowith the leadergo withGoldak!

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LOVERS OF the great outdoors ai more particularly, lovers of desert, are indebted to three gentlemwho were implemental in stoppingalleged land give-away inCaliforniaAlfred Kramm of the Western Rochound Association, Alfred Nelson the California Outdoor RecreatioLeague and Al Pearce of the Onta

Upland Daily Report and a DesMagazine contributor, unearthed facts that both a United States Senand a Congressman had introduceidentical bills requesting the Fed

government to quit claim a 1200-square-mile section in the northeastern part Bernardino County. This land is prime recreation land mentioned just recenthe much-awaited BLM report. Our hats are off to the alertness of these thrthe untold numbers whose actions resulted in the withdrawal of both bills aning a much-needed recreation area, the size of the State of Rhode Island,becoming private property and being lost to untold millions in years to come

Texas has long been known as a state that does things in a "big way"do believe California has come up with a tough one to beat. In the first arRiverside County for violation of the U.S. Antiquities Act, which prohibremoval of Indian artifacts by anyone other than an authorized archeoloother professional, an Indio,Calif, man has pleaded guilty to charges of remoa /200-pound bedrock mortar from Federal land in Martinez Canyon. To cocate things the mortar was located 3000 feet up a steep and narrow gorge one has come up with a method of returning the stolen mortar. Your turn

My how the time flies! Here it is May again and as has been our polipast two years, our little book and crafts store will be closed on weekends duration of the summer. The summer hours during the week will be 7:30 to

Desert Magazine this month salutes the Indiansof the Southwest. Thetribes are known across America and some of their individual members, like and Geronimo, are household words. Our desert Indians are a gifted and cpeople and have developed the art of silversmithing and jewelry making to sent height of interest. Basket weaving and pottery making are two more fathese tribes that have helped the Indian in his search for independence. Wcoming of the summer those visiting in Arizona and New Mexico will get a to see the gathering of the tribes at two of the finest displays of Indian dathe world, the All-Indian Pow Wow atFlagstaff, Ariz, and the Inter-Tribal Cemonial at Gallup, New Mexico. For details, see page 20. We hope you enjissue and that you find the contents informative and exciting but one lookcover should have told you we'd come up with a cliff-hanger!


5/44

T HOSE INVOLVED in amateur gem cut-ting soon come to realize that ifthere were no agates, the popular pas-time of cutting cabochon(dome-shaped)gems would be practiced by very few.There are branches of gem cutting thatdo not depend upon agate, or make useof it in only small amounts, but thesearts are parcticed by few, and most start-ed by cutting agate.

The person who carves gemstones willfind there are many minerals, usuallysofter than agate, that will suit his needsvery nicely, and he can go on in the ab-sence of agate. The cutter of facetedgems can spend his entire lifetime hobbycutting nearly 100 different minerals,and never produce an agate faceted stone.In fact, he would be wasting his time ifhe did, as agate does not respond tofaceting.

The thing of interest here is that nearlyall amateur cutters of faceted stones cutmore quartz gems (amethyst, citrine, etc.)than any other material. Hereby hangs avery interesting tale. Agate is a form ofquartz, and thus if there were no agate,in all probability there would be noquartz.

First, let's talk about quartz, and per-

haps some readers may wonder why wedid not entitle this column "Quartz:The Cornerstone of Gem Cutting." Ofthe thousands of minerals to be foundin the crust of the earth, quartz is prob-ably the most unique. First, it is themost common of all minerals, beingfound in most geological formations,sometimes in huge amounts.

Second, as a result of its atomic make-up, it is practically indestructable. Chem-ically, quartz is one part silicon, a metal,

and two parts oxygen. Each of these ele-ments has an incomplete atomic makeup

with both having shortages of electronsthat the other can fill. This "sharing" ofelectrons gives the quartz compound(SiO 2) a stability that is so great thatfew forces found normally on earth cantear it apart. Most minerals are not sostable, and may easily deteriorate orchange into other minerals.

Third, quartz forms in many varieties.The best known are amethyst, rock cry-stal, aga te, flint, and others. In its


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O V E R FA B U L O U S L A K E P O W E L L

T H E

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IN THE WORLD

ALSO

RAINBOW BRIDGE

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Numerous other FabulousAttractions

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PA G EAV I AT I O N ,INC.Write P.O. Box 1385

Phone (602) 645-2494PAGE, ARIZONA, 86040

R e v i e w sby Jack Pepper

SUCCULENTS AND CACTUS

By the E ditors of Sunset Books

Planting and care of succulents andcactus in gardens and indoor patios isdescribed and illustrated in Sunset's newbook. Most of the plants described haveexotic flowers which enhance the gardenor make exciting decorative pieces in-doors.

In addition to the planting and careof the plants there are special sectionssuch as how to pot cactus and how tograft cactus. Selection of plants and land-scaping ideas are featured. Large for-mat, heavy paperback, 80 pages,Si.95.

WAT E R H O L Eo rWAT E R L O O ,a K IN G W IN C H c a n m a k e th e d i f feWhen the water's up . . . or when your vehicleis down in the mud or snow . . . a King Winchcan pull you through. Go to most remote off-roadareas, knowing you have 8,000 lbs. of full-timepulling power to get over obstacles, throughmarshy areas, up steepest grades . . . and homeagain. King Winches, famous for nearly 40 years,depend on power take-off, not battery power.The only power take-off driven winch approved byFord Motor Co. for Bronco. Also specific models aremade for Jeep, Scout, Land-Rover and other 4 WDvehicles and trucks. Add confidence to your tripsby adding a King Winch. For facts, write Koenigtoday. Specify vehicle make and model.

King Winch for Bronco and other4 WD vehicles have 8,000 lbs.pulling power.

BARBED WIRE HANDBOOKAND PRICING GUIDEBy T homas Edward Turner

The latest book for barbed wire clectors contains 418 different kinds barbed wire and associated items whare described and illustrated with drawings. Most also list the current va

of the strands. Paperback, 102 pag13.95.

CAMPING HANDBOOKCom piled by Sun set Editors

While emphasizing the fun of caming, this comprehensive guide provibasic information on the practical aspeof living out-of-doors. Formerly titFamily Camping,it has been completerevised to include the latest informaton equipment and camping vehicles.

There are chapters on locating the bcampgrounds, getting ready for the tselecting and transporting equipment, aa chapter on camp cookery. Others clude renting and buying recreation hicles, first aid, hiking tips and maothers. With this book you can start plning your summer vacation now.

Large format, well illustrated, heapaperback, 96 pages, $1.95.

COLORFUL DESERT WILDFLOWEBy Grace and Onas W ard

Covering the flowers of the MojaColorado and Western Arizona deseColorful Desert Wildflowersis designeto "stimulate interest in the flowers the desert, and to aid flower loversidentifying the main varieties."

NOTICE all the books re-viewed in DESERT Maga-

zine are available throughthe Desert Magazine Book

Shop. Please add 50 centsper order (not per book)

for handling and postage.California residents must

also add 5 percent salestax for the total amount of

books.


7/44

The authors have livedon the desertfor 33 years and during that time havemade hundreds of slides of flowers ofwhich 190 are used in their book. Tomake them more easily identifiable, theyhave segregated them into categoriesofred, blue, whiteand yellow.

Printed on heavy, slick paper, the il-lustrations are identified by their com-

mon, scientific and family names alongwith a description and where they arefound. Color photos are five inchessquare, making identification easy.

Heavy, slick paperback, the volumecontains pages for making individualnotes. $4.50.

RELICTRAILSTO TREASUREBy Wes & Ruby Bressie

The piece of "junk" you picked up

during your last tripto the desert mightbe worth more thanyou thought. Or may-be you found an old relic whichyou can'tidentify so you stored it in the garage.

With this new book collectorscan ex-pand their activitiesand knowledge ofthe valueof relics and where and how to

find themnot onlyon the desert, butalso in junk shops, Flea Marketsand oldestate auctions.

Items covered in this fascinating bookrange from Indian arrowheadsto child-ren's toys. Other items which once wereof little value but today are consideredcollectors items include powder flasks,dolls, axes, irons, kettles, postersandminers picks.

Illustrated with hundredsof photo-graphs and with a separate price listforthe items listed,the new book shouldbecollected by all collectors. Heavy paper-back, 191 pages, $4.50.

MAP OF THE CALIFORNIACITY AREA #5Compiledby Dale Hileman

Dale Hileman has compiled another

gem, mineral and 4-wheel-drive mapthis time on the California City areain-cluding Castle Butte, Peerless ValleyandNorth Edwards in California's KernCounty. This is an excellent gem collect-ing and exploring areaand the map isvery detailed, #5, $1.00.

Meet the man whoalmost drowned San Diego.

T w i c e . When Char les Hatfie ld madeit rain, it rained.The secretsof California's greatest rainmaker died withhim. But the storyof

Hatfield's damp career lives againin Lost Legendsof the West.This "vastly entertaining collectionof unhackneyed tales"* also tellsyou how

the notorious P ancho V illa losthis head two and a half years afterhe was killed.How "Madam" Julia Bullette helpedto win the Civil War. Why girl-desperadoPearl Hartwas hustled out of the Arizona Territorial Prison.Andwhere to fish for giant, 60-lb. prehistoric minnows. ^j~4gsss~~

It's a rollicking round-upof Westernerswho never madethe yfi S-history books,but did make the history of the West the colorful flS^ZOfilT Apageant it is. L Q S T L E G E N D S OF THE WEST$5.95 at book stores. by Brad Williams and Choral Pepper

Send checkor money order to Desert Magazine Book Shop, Palm Desert,California 93360.Add 50$ for postage and handling. California residentsadd 5% sales tax.HOLT, RINEHART AND WINSTON, INC. 'Publishers' Weekly

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8/44

by Maurice Kildare

NOTHING FUELSthe excitement of a

gem hunter more than an unex-pected "find." So it was recently whenseveral rockhounds on Garnet Ridge innorth-central Arizona let out reverberat-ing whoops and hollers. The rest of theparty, scattered all over the dull coloredridge, hurried to the site. The group of14 people, led by E. G. (Doc) Williamsof the Flagstaff Gem and Mineral Soci-ety, had found a new bed of blood-redgarnets.

These stones have gained fame as"Arizona rubies." They are harder thanothers found elsewhere. However, west-ern New Mexico, next to the Arizonaborder, has a few small producing areas.These stones are of the same unusualquality.

I can remember as a kid cowboy anold frontiersman called them petrifiedblood. In Querino Valley in eastern Na-vajo country I stopped tracking severalmules and began filling my hat withthem. They were that numerous on theground. The old frontiersman with me,8

more than 7 5-years-old, knocked themout of my hands, shouting: "Them'sfrozen blood! You're crazy and bad luckwill haunt us from now on!"

Despite his predictions, we trackeddown his four Spanish mules without anydifficulty. So far as I know no rock-hounds have ever hunted for garnets inQuerino Valley, just north of the high-way near Houck. Garnets have beenpicked up there along with other tinygravels and used by ants building theirdens. But no red or black ant that I eversaw could drag a ten-carat stone to themound.

Even American garnets are classified

according to European standards. There-fore we find that the Arizona stones arein the same category as the Hungarian py-rope garnet, which is softer and an in-ferior stone.

Williams is an old-timer hunting semi-precious gemstones in the colorful Paint-ed Desert and the greater southwest. Hehas found them all over Arizona, NewMexico (where he was born and raised),southern Utah and even as far north asIdaho.

His favorite hunting grounds are lo-

cated in the Arizona's Navajo Resertion. This was why he conducted fellmembers of the local society to GarRidge. It is located exactly 6.7 mi

northeast of Denehotso trading post.A woman in the party found a co

glomerate containing thousands of tgarnets in small fragments that had bren out of a ledge. It was from this fmation from which the stones on the lridge eroded.

The Arizona blood-red garnets wfirst found by frontiersmen in the Dinbito Valley of the western Navajo coutry long before 1900. From this valWilliams has picked up several thousa

Editor's Note: Dinnebito is Navadine meaning people, andbito meaningwater or spring. It is spelled various win different maps and books: DenebeDenebito, Denabito and Tinebito.

The Dinnebito lies north of GraFalls on the Little Colorado River aruns north to Coal Canyon, a tributaryBlue Canyon. The valley is divided bwash that empties into the river. By tbeginning stream in flood during spring runoff of melting snow and imillions of the stones have gone dow


9/44

Millions of garnets from DinnebitoValley in Arizona's western* NavajoCountry have washed downand overthe Grand Fallson the Little Colorado.

stream into the big Colorado and on tothe Gulf of Lower California.

Back in the 1880s and 1890s, garnetsof the Dinnebito, ten to fifty carats, werebought from Navajo Indiansby localtraders (my father was one of them).Atone time they were minedby dry panningand shipped to dealers in Los Angelesand New York City.

The supply at that time seemed endlessbut the demand for them by jewelerssloughed off. They could be bought inforeign countriesat half the price. Verysoon the Arizona garnetwas worth about100 each.In recent yearsso many huntershave been in the Dinnebito that theyarevery scarce on top of the ground. Theone recoursenow is to mine them fromlower stratas above bedrock.

The same situationis true at Garnet

Ridge. But, as Williams pointsout, afterspring runoff or following heavy rains,

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Veteran garnet collectorE. G. "Doc"Williams examines rock filled withblood red stones. On table are part ofmore than 25,000 garnetshe has col-lected in Arizona, New Mexico, Utah.

the hunter can go back over the sameground and find more that have beenex-posed on the surface.

For both Garnet Ridgeand the Dinne-bito the desirable garnets averageis tencarats.However, some have been foundinDinnebito Valley runningto 80 carats.Williams, in his collection of at least25,000 blood-red stones, has severalof ten carats.

When visiting the Navajo countryhefinds garnets but also buys many fromIndians who have gathered them whileherding sheepor cattle, or just walking

around.As soon as his gem hunters pitch camp

and Navajos hear he is present, theyshow up at the blazing night fire. Theyhave accumulateda tobacco sackof stonesto sell. Since he knows most of themas long time friendswho used to trade

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with him in Flagstaff, he always buysregardless of how worthless the stonesmay be. Navajos first interestedhim ingarnets. For more than 20 years he andMrs. Williams operateda saddle makingand leather goods shop where Navajstarted bringinghim garnets.

After retiring from business10 yearsago, Williams turned to rockhoundingas a hobby. He now has some of theworld's most beautifully polished rocin his collection (from all over theworld). But he is proudest of his jarsof garnets.

There are other rich areasof garnetbeds on the Navajo Reservationnot yetexplored or known to semi-preciousgem

collectors. Sincethe 1880s Indians havbeen selling stones from themto tradersThey vary in color and are not all deered.

Williams relates an interesting storyabout a trader once in business not farfrom Garnet Ridge.For years he boughtgarnets from children herding sheeThey swapped the stones for candy,cookies, applesor oranges. He took themin trade only as an accommodation,notsuspecting they wouldbe valuable.

Near the end of his trading dayshehad 400 pounds of garnets. A New York


11/44

jewelry firm offered him $4a pound buthe declined to sell.

"After I retire from business," he toldWilliams, "I will sell a few pounds at atime and that will be my spendingmoney!"

The areas remainingin Dinnebito Val-1LX where garnets still canbe foundonthe surface are difficult to reach.ButWilliams and his fellow rockhounderssolve this by towing small vehiclesbe-hind their campers.

After traveling as near as possibletothe search area, campis established. Theback country vehicles are then unhookedand used to negotiate sand bedsandridges, and to get over washes and aroundmassive rocks. On returning to camp,they havea community feast.

Under moon and starlight nearthesagebrush fires the rockhounds holda"happy hour." Williamsis an old-timefiddler who saws out the stringed musicwhile the rest join in group singing.

This impromptu entertainmentis cer-tain to draw Navajos from nearbyho-gans, if they are not already on hand.They also readily reveal where they haverecently picked up a few garnets. Yet,

only in rare instances, will the site proveworthwhile.

On one occasion, Navajo friendsde-scribed a field of gemstones not far fromhis camp. Assuring him they werenotred, they insisted that the "white-greenish" stones were garnetsall thesame.

Unable to determine from theirde-scriptions what the gemstones might be,he went there. They provedto be peri-

dots, located north of Fort Defiancewhere he prospected for a new gem-stone field at the time.

Garnet Ridge and the Dinnebito Val-ley are the largest known garnet fieldson the reservation. Butit could wellbethat Querino Valley, when fully exploredand tested, willbe as great or more so.

To those rockhounds unfamiliar withthe reservation it is advisable to inquireof the Navajo Tribe's Parks and Recrea-tion Department, Window Rock,Ari-

zona, for the latest available information.There are several small areas, not pub-licized, that are difficultto enter. Hikingor by horseback is, in some cases, the onlyway to reach them. No matter how youexplore Arizona's gem fields, you'll haveexcitement of an unexpected "find."

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Prehistoric Hohokam shell and turquoise beads and jewelry fromCasa Grande National M onument. Below, Hohokam jewelry in-cluded cone shell tinklers (A & C), clam shell bracelets (B), andolivella shell necklaces. Photos courtesy NationalPark Service.

W HAT ARE sea shells doing on des-ert trails, in caves and in Indianruins many hundreds of miles fromocean waters ? Desert explorers have beenasking this question ever since they firstexplored the West and delved into In-dian ruins.

The ancient Anasazi, Sinagua and Ho-hokam left thousands of worked and un-worked shells behind in their ruins. Themodern Pima, Papago, Hopi and Zuniare still busily engaged in turning shellsinto objects of beauty.

How have the Indians of California,Arizona and New Mexico become sofamiliar with shells from the distant seas?This question helped early-day explorersto find ancient trade routes through thedeserts and mountains of the West.

Father Eusebio Francisco Kino wasprobably the first white man to be in-trigued with sea shells and their value.During his expeditions to southern Ari-zona Indian villages in the late 1690s,this pioneer Jesuit missionary was pre-

sented with blue abalone shells. (See"The Romance of the Blue Shell," Des-ert, Oct., 1964).

The blue abalone could only have comefrom the Pacific coast of California.Thus began his search for the elusiveland passage to California, which wasthen believed to be an island. His ex-plorations finally proved the Gulf ofCalifornia did not surround the "island"but ended at the mouth of the ColoradoRiver. But it was left to Juan Bautista deAnza to blaze the land trail to Californiain 1774and all because of a blue seashell.

Later explorers came to the same con-clusion: that sea shells had been carriedoverland from the Pacific Ocean, as wellas from the Gulf of California and theGulf of Mexico. They were brought toinland tribes who valued them becauseof their beauty and rarity. Sea shells-were, in fact, one of the main trade itemsamong the various tribes. Even whitetraders took advantage of this fact, bring-

oa


13/44

by Janice Beaty Pecten circularisshells tied to yucca cord found at MontezuCastle National Monum ent. Sea shells were one of the m ain titems between inland and coastal Indians. The trade routes hel

Spanish missionaries to discover overland routes.

ing in numbers of highly valued shells.As late as 1880 a horse could be tradedfrom a desert Indian in exchange for asingle shell of the red abalone from thePacific Coast.

It soon became evident that ancienttrading routes across the desert could bedetermined by identifying the shellsfound at the various ruins and tracingthem back to their coastal origins. Event-ually Dr. Donald Brand was able to out-

line a number of these trade routesacross Arizona.

One of the main routes ran east fromthe Pacific Coast across northern Ari-zona just north of the present U. S.66 .At Peach Springs a northeast branchwent along the rim of the Grand Can-yon to the Moenkopi Valley. A secondbranch followed the Little Colorado andits tributaries into the Zuni country ofNew Mexico.

A southern route began at the Gulfof California and ran up through the

Hohokam settlements around presePhoenix to the Verde River. At preseCamp Verde, it divided, one branch ging up Oak Creek toFlagstaff, the othereast to Chavez Pass and on to the Hocountry of northern Arizona. Hopi potery and turquoise went south along throute, while salt, cotton textiles and fethers, as well as shells, were carrinorth.

Another Arizona route began at tHohokam settlements around Phoenand went up the Salt River and its tbutaries over to Fort Apache and eveually into Hopi country.

The sea shells which identified thancient trade routes are of special terest to modern desert visitors becathey can be seen today in museuthroughout the Southwest. One glimpat any of these shell collections leads visitor to realize why desert Indiaprized sea shells so highly.

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14/44

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the Visitor Center of Montezuma CastleNational Monument, for instance. Shellnecklaces made of tiny olivellas from theGulf of California predominate here asin most of the collections. They were themost commonly used shell of all, per-haps because they were small (less than

l/ 2 inch), plentiful, easily transported

and easily worked into beads. Merely

grinding off either end produced a prettylittle bead ready for stringing. Singlenecklaces of olivella shells sometimesreached 40 feet in length!

Like most sea shells, olivellas were ad-mirably suited for the making of jewelry.Desert Indians recognized their intrinsicbeauty from the start, and convertednearly all the shells they obtained intojewelry.

The most magnificent piece of olivellajewelry ever found on the desert came

from an ancient burial at Canyon delMuerto in Arizona's Canyon de ChellyNational Monument. It was a five-inch-wide cuff bracelet made from 200 per-fectly matched olivella shells set with afine turquoise in the center.

Perhaps the most outstanding desertshell users were the ancient Hohokam ofsouthern and central Arizona. A numberof museums display their shell creations:

the Heard Museum and Pueblo GrandeMuseum in Phoenix, the little BuckeyeHistorical Museum in Buckeye, the Ari-zona State Museum at the University of

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Arizona at Tucson, and the Visitor Cen-ter at Casa Grande National Monument.

At Casa Grande the visitor will findnecklaces made of the second most com-mon shell found in desert ruins: theglycimeris or bittersweet clam.

Both ancient and modern tribes madeit into necklaces by scoring the innervalve, breaking it into rough squares,

drilling a hole in the center of each, andthen stringing the rough beads. Theycould be smoothed down either round orsquare in shape by drawing the necklaceback and forth through a rounded grooveor over a flat surface.

Modern strands of these beads, knownas "heeshee," are still eagerly sought byIndians and white visitors from the fewtribes who produce them. Indian crafts-men at the Santo Domingo Pueblo inNew Mexico, for instance, sell such neck-

laces from $4 to $18 a strand, dependingon the quality.

The Hohokams and others also madearm bracelets from single valves of thelarge Spotted Bittersweet Clam. The in-ner part was filed away leaving only anouter rim. These were worn by the doz-en, ancient burials testify. The Hohokamsof A.D. 900-1200 carved fine figures ontheir clam bracelet rims. Often a snake'sbody would form the band, with a snake'shead in a bird's mouth at the hinge of

the valve. Rings were fashioned in similarmanner from smaller clam shells.

The part of the clam which had beencut out was often carved into pendants,effigies, geometric figures, or pieces usedfor inlay work. The Casa Grande Museumcollection displays a number of favoritebird motifs, especially the pelican whoseeye was drilled out for a cord to passthrough.

How did desert tribes know the peli-can ? It is possible that they merely copied

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16/44

CAMPING...The Easy Wayby Jack Delaney

I T USED to be that after a summer vaca-tion camping trip during which shewashed dishes and clothes, kept the tentclean and watched out for the kiddieswhile father was fishing and junior was

playing with friends, mother needed avacation to recuperate from the vacation.

The new mode today in tent camp-ing is the resort-type municipal familycamp which, although situated in primi-tive areas, offers a minimum of primitiveliving thus allowing all members of thefamily to relax and enjoy their summervacation.

Although many of these municipallyowned camps have been operating foryears, as more and more families turn tothe outdoors for relaxation, they arebeing "discovered" and new ones arebeing developed.

Many cities have acquired, developed,and are operating family camps inmountain regions (sometimes severalhundred miles from their communities)for use by their residents, and, in mostcases, by non-residents as well. Rates fora complete vacation package, or for aday or two, are surprisingly low sincethese camps are operated on a self-sup-

porting, non-profit basis.16

- , . -


17/44

The setting and scenic attractions areunique to each camp, but the type ofaccommodations are usually the same.They consist of either wooden-floortents, all-wood cabins, or some of each.Many have electric lights, while othersrequire lantern lighting in the livingquarters; and all provide a modest assort-ment of furnishings. In all camps guestsare required to bring their own linens,pillows and blanketsor sleeping bags, ifpreferred. Laundry facilities, in mostcases consisting of coin-operated automat-ic machines, are supplied.

Standard vacation activities includehiking, riding, swimming, fishing, ping-pong, volleyball, badminton, shuffleboard,horseshoes, sunbathing, and just plainrelaxing. Special craft and organized playprograms are usually scheduled for thekiddies and teens. In the evenings adultscavort on the dance floor, play cards, orstroll.

All of the resorts have the same goalof recreation in an atmosphere of funand friendship. The camping season runsfrom approximately mid-June to earlySeptember, during school vacation time.Reservations should be made well in ad-

The FeatherRiver and theother municipalcamps are locatedin scenic moun-tains and afforda variety ofactivities for theentire family.Among theactivities are(above) horsebackriding for bothadults andchildren underthe supervisionof experthorsemen.

vance, though you might be lucky on a"drop-in" visit, without reservations.

Check with the recreation departmentof your city to find out if it has a familycamp for the benefit of its residents. Ifnot, contact the parks and recreation de-partment of your state for informationon the nearest resort-type municipalcamp. For California write to: CaliforniaParks and Recreation Department, P. O.Box 2390, Sacramento, California95811.

Because of the similarities in operatingpractice and programs mentioned above,a comprehensive review of only one ofthe resorts will be presented here, to-gether with location and rate data onseveral of the other family camps inCalifornia.

If your favorite vacation daydream in-cludes tall trees, blue skies, a mountainstream, a trout on your line, a brightflower beside the trail, a refreshing swimin tingling water, a stretch in the sun,and pleasant companionsyou'll be hap-py at Oakland's Feather River FamilyCamp. It is located on Spanish Creek, inthe Plumas National Forest, five milesnortheast of Quincy off State Route 70.Here you'll find warm summer days,cool evenings, and extra-blanket nightsat an elevation of 3400 feet.

The Oakland camp has a capacity 200 and is considered to be one of best. Accommodations include flootent lodgings, and at least 20 new rusall-wood cabins with spacious porches more outdoor living. All living quartare furnished with cots, mattresses, amiscellaneous small items.

In the central area there is the caoffice; a large veranda; a social nowith piano; a lawn section, for gamessunbathing; lavatories and shower roowith hot water; laundry rooms equippwith automatic washers, tubs, irons aironing boards; a rustic dining halldiet kitchen for the preparation of infformulas: a camp store for snacks, sdrinks, postcards, stamps, etc.; and thhealth center cabinsthe treatment tion, isolation, and the nurses' lodgin

The "Tot Lot" is a large fenced awhere young children (two to eiyears of age) may be "checked-in" supervised activities several hours day, leaving the parents free to enadult pursuits. This is not a baby-sitserviceit is a real fun time for kidin a western-style play area, with grgames, story hours, simple crafts, an"juice break' 'each morning.

Continued on Page 3n


18/44

S I-ARCHING FORsilver and other valu-able possessions, the white man isonce again invading southwestern Indianterritory. Only this time, instead of carry-ing a Winchester rifle and meeting heavyresistance from native Americans, he isarmed with United States currency andis welcomed by Indian artisans and merchants.

America is having its own renaissanceas an ever-increasing number of peoplediscover the arts and crafts of the Indiansare as individually beautiful as those ofthe artisans of Europe and the Orient.

The current invasion and the resultantrealization by the white visitors that In-dians are individuals with their own prideand dignity intent on developing theireconomy to free themselves from welfare"handouts" is a major step forward inthe sometimes sordid path of the last200 years.

Today there are 170,000 native Ameri-cans in the Southwest Indian Countrymajority of whom live on reservationsThe most populous tribe with the largesreservation in the United States is that ofthe 120,000 Navajos whose land coversome 160,000,000 acres in northeasternArizona and extends into Utah and New

Mexico.

Hopi Indians are famous for theircolorful kachina dolls. Am ong themany Indian tribes (opposite page)participating in the annual Inter-Tri-bal Ceremon ial at Gallup, New Mexicoare those from the Laguna Pueblo.Photo by Harold Ambrosch of PalmSprings, Calif.


19/44

by Jack Pepper

Within the Navajo Reservation andyet a complete separate entity is the HopiReservation of 631,194 acres. The major-ity of the 5200 inhabitants live on threemesas overlooking the land of the Nava-jos once their bitter enemies. TheNavajos are comparatively new residents,having invaded the country only about1000 years ago.

The beautiful Indian jewelry, baskets,rugs, beads and other authentic crafts

created today,-which reflect the individualculture and ability of the more than 40tribes of the Southwest, are the result ofa series of invasions each of whichbrought new ideas, tools and basic mater-

ials for the modern-day creations.Although prehistoric man is assumed

to have been in the Southwest as early as25,000 years ago (some archeologists saymore than 50,000 years) the first com-munity civilization was that of the Basket-

makers (circa 500 A.D.) and later Cliff Dwellers whose culture flourisfrom about the mid-11th Century to end of the 1 3th Century. They develoweaving, basketry and pottery making

For some reason (most popular beis drought or marauding tribes) the pblo people abandoned their ancient ciaround 1300. Called theAnusazi, meaning "the ancient ones," their ruins be seen throughout the Southwest. Bexamples are the Mesa Verde, Betata


20/44

- - I n d i a nC e r s m o n i a l

D a n c e s/r.

Majority of the colorful Indian cere-monials, festivals and dances are heldduring the summer months and visi torsare extended the privilege of attendingmany of them as long as they abide bythe established rules.

Most Indian dances, especially in thesmaller villages, are religious observ-

ances where the white man is allowedas long as he shows the proper respect.NEVER take photographs or noteswithout asking permission at thesedances.

Probably the most exciting of thePueblo Indian dances is the Hopi SnakeDance which usually takes place inAugust. The Hopi dance with livesnakes, including rattlesnakes, betweentheir teeth. The legend is the snakeswill carry messages to the rain godsfor showers for the crops. Hopi kachinadances are held from January to late-July. Exact date of the Snake dance canbe obtained by calling the Hopi Agencyat Keams CanyonAC 602 738-2225-through Holbrook, Arizona. The SnakeDance is held on one of the three Hopimesas. (See map.)

In addition to the private dances andceremonials there are many public cele-brations where there arcno restrictionson photography or tape recordings. Thethree major events are:

INTER-TRIBAL CEREM ONIAL pre-sented in Gallup, New Mexico for fourdays. This year the event will be held

August 13, 14, 15 and 16. About 30different Indian tribes participate inrodeos, parades, dances and other per-formances. Arts and crafts of the manytribes present are for sale. For infor-mation and tickets write to the Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial Association.Box 1029, Gallup, New Mexico87301 .

ALL-INDIAN P O W W O W present-ed in Flagstaff, Arizona over the Fourthof July weekend. Indians from through-out the Southwest, principally Navajos,make this event their annual get-togetherwhere they not only sell their wares totourists, but trade among themselves.Don't be impatient if the rodeos, par-ades and ceremonials do not alwaysstart on time. Everything is informal andeveryone is just having a good time.For information write to the Chamberof Commerce, Flagstaff, Arizona 86001.

INDIAN DAY presented in Bluff,Utah June 20th. Located on Utah State

Route 47 just north of the Arizona bor-der, Bluff is a trading center for Na-vajo and Ute Indians. Visitors will alsofind this is spectacular country. For in-formation write to Gene Foushee, Re-capture Lodge, Bluff, Utah 84512.

While some events are scheduledahead of time, many are last minuteaffairs. Check with tribal offices orchambers of commerce when in the area.For other dances and dates send aself-addressed stamped envelope to DesertMagazine, Indian Affairs, Palm Desert.Calif. 92260.

20

Keet Seel, Chaco Canyon and an areanear Kayenta, Arizona.

(Some archeologists say an even earliercivilization in the Southwest than thepueblo-building Anasazi was the Hoho-katn communities of southern Arizonawhere an extensive system of irrigatedcanals was believed to have been develop-ed as early as 700 A.D.Hohokam is aPima Indian word for "those who havevanished." The Pimas and Papagosthought to be direct descendants of theHohokam.', live on reservations nearPhoenix and Tucson.)

Descendants of theAnasaziCliff Dwel-lers are today's Pueblo Indians, the majority of whom live in 18 villages on oraround their mesas in New Mexico andArizona. The best known are the Zunvillages south of Gallup, New Mexico(see other article in this issue); Acomaknown as the "Sky City," between Albuquerque and Grants, New Mexico onU . S . 40, which vies with the Hopi pue-blo of Oraibi as being the oldest continuously inhabited community in theUnited States and is known for its finpottery, and the Hopi mesas surroundedby the Navajo Reservation. Acoma andOraibi are said to have been active communities for more than 1000 years.

The Hopi IndiansHopi is a contraction of Hopi-tuh, their tribal namewhich means "the peaceful ones"hadbeen living on their sacred land for centuries when they were invaded by nomadic hunters from the north who originally came over the Bering Strait and thenmigrated south.

(Altho ugh white - man archeologistand anthropologists believe the first immigrants came across the Bering Strait osailed across the southern Pacific Oceanto South America, Indian legends say thecame from beneath the earth's surfacthrough reeds or holes. A fascinatinbook on these legends is Frank Water'Book of the Hopi.)

These nomadic hunterswho callethemselves Dine, meaning "the people"spoke Athabascan which was a foreigtongue to the Shoshonean speaking HopIndians. The invaders at first raided thPueblo villages and took women andchildren captivesand from these captives they learned the art of weaving, basket making and other crafts which theadapted to their own individual skills.

As their numbers increased, they grad


21/44

"tl I? VEflDE

R UTAH y- .... r u i COR

GALLUPINDIAN COUNTRY

CIRCUIT


22/44

ually turned from hunting and raidingto agriculture and settled in small com-munities near their fields. Today they arecalled Navajos from the Tewa wordNavahu meaning "cultivated fields." Astheir life became more sedentary they de-veloped their newly acquired skills ofweaving cotton and fibers, sand painting,bead making and farming.

Although the Indians of the South-west during the early 1500s grew basiccrops and traded with the Indians of thePacific Coast for shells which they usedwith turquoise for their beads, it tookstill another invasion to introduce horses,sheep and silver.

Searching for gold, loot and "lostsouls" a paradoxical combination of Span-ish military and Catholic missionariesfirst marched into Indian Country fromMexico City in 1539. Returning to Mexi-co City and the first abortive invasion,Fray Marcos de Niza reported he hadseen the legendary gold-covered SevenCities of Cibola.

As a result of his erroneous report theSpaniards launched a full-scale invasion.Although not ousting them from theirlands, the conquering Spaniards enslavedthe Indians, demanding tribute in theform of labor, food, crops anda newwordtaxation.

On the negative side of the ledger they22

gave the Indians their own form ofChristian religion, wide-spread disease, foreign political system, renamed theivillages and pitted one Indian tribagainst another.

On the positive side of the ledger, thinvasion brought iron tools, fruit treesnew domestic plants, silver, cattle, sheepand horses which completely changed

the lives of the Indians.From the Spaniardsand later thMexicansthe Indians learned the art osilversmith which they gradually adapteto their own skills and which has resultein today's beautiful Indian jewelry. Woofrom the sheep replaced cotton in theiweaving, resulting in the colorful Navajo blankets.

The final invasion of their countrywhich had a direct result on the modernday Indian artisans was that of the whitsettlers from the eastern United StatesAlthough the majority of the "palfaces" were only intent on taking lanfrom the Indians, a small minority set

Arizona's H opi Indians, mo st of whom live on a reservation completelytheir Kachina dolls, basketry, pottery and overlay jewelry. Navajo Indian

necklaces (photos a bove). Sma ll figurine at bottom of p


23/44

tied among the native Americans andestablished trading posts.

The original trading posts were similarto the country store in which the propri-etor traded coffee, flour and other stablesfor the products of the Indians. Thetraders, in turn, sold the Indian productsto other Indians and to the easternmarket.

The authentic trading posts through-out the Southwest today operate on thesame basic principal as those establishedmore than 100 years ago. The word"authentic" is used here since in recentyears some of the older trading postsand many new ones are offering imita-tion Indian products which are mass-produced in areas other than IndianCountry.

However, the fact a trading post hasimitation products does not mean theydo not also carry authentic Indian jewel-ry, blankets, beads, baskets, etc. Like anybusiness, they offer what the public de-mands.

eir Navajo neighbors, are famous fors of turquoise in their squash blossom) is a Zuni Indian fetish.

It is well to remember, however, thewords "Indian design" or "Indian style"and "silver metal" and "turquoise bluestone" do not necessarily mean they aresterling silver or genuine turquoise which authentic Indian jewelry alwayscontains. Established traders will readilyrhow you the difference.

In recent years many Indian tribeshave established their own guild craftshops on their reservations where theysell the hand-made products of theirmembers. You can also purchase someproducts from families, such as kachinadolls, pottery and baskets on the Hopimesas. In addition to displays where youcan learn to recognize true Indian crafts,majority of the many museums through-out the Southwest also have Indianstores.

Remember you are not buying just aproduct, but rather you are paying fortime and skill so do not judge the valueof a product by the value of the mater-ials, just as you would not judge theprice of a painting by the cost of thepaint. For example, it takes about 350hours' work for a Navajo weaver tomake a three-foot by five-foot rug ofaverage quality!

As stated previously there are morethan 40 tribes throughout the IndianCountry of the Southwest, all of which

have their own individually styled aand crafts. It is impossible to cover all the areas in one trip so it is best to plcircular tours. One of the most intereing is through the Navajo, Zuni aHopi country.

The trip starts in Flagstaff, Arizonwhere there are several good tradposts and the Museum of Northern Azona which is a "must" for anyone terested in the culture of the SouthwIndians. After visiting the museum, ywill have a comprehensive view of areas you will visit on the "Indian Cotry Circuit."

From Flagstaff take Highway 89 Tuba City and Highway 164 (also ced Navajo 1) which winds through spectacular Monument Valley area. Althis entire route there are numerous strips. An excellent map of the area p

lished by the Navajos can be obtainedany of the trading posts.

The circuit continues to Monticello athen south on Highway 160 to Corand the Mesa Verde National Park whdaily tours through the giant prehistopueblo villages are conducted. From Ctez the road continues south to Galwhere there are excellent trading poand the home of the famous Inter-TriCeremonial. (See other article in 1 S S u e' ) Continued on Page38

23


24/44

A GREAT CHANGE has come to theland of the Zunis in the last fewyears. Only a short time ago, the puebloused to be a sleepy little place in whicha few Indians lived very much the waythey lived centuries ago, but this is nolonger the case. Today, Zuni pueblo hascome to life. The governor of the reser-vation, Robert E. Lewis, a short, wiry

man of middle age, directs the affairs ofhis people like a general.

"We're making gigantic strides for-ward," he said, in his Zuni, New Mexi-co office, "With the help of the 'War onPoverty' programs, we have started ourZuni Craftsmen Co-Operative Associa-tion. W e are building new homes and aretrying to attract industry. We are also re-modeling our old church which was es-tablished when the Spaniards came herein the 16th century. We'll even rebuild

Hawikuh to attract the tourists."

Hawikuh pueblo, located about 14miles from Zuni, was first seen by theSpaniards in 1540 when an expedition,sent by the Spanish Viceroy Antonio deMandoza in Mexico City, was looking forthe fabled Seven Golden Cities of Cibola.

The expedition was led by Estevanicothe Black, who failed to convince the2]unis he was a god as he had othertribes. He was killed and his body thrown

over the cliff. Fray Marcos de Niza was

LANDofin the same expedition, but far behindEstevanico and never saw Hawikuh. Des-

pite this he returned to Mexico City andreported the pueblo village was filledwith gold. Other expeditions proved thegood father was over imaginative, to saythe least.

Only ruins are left of Hawikuh, butLewis intends to rebuild it and producea pageant centering around the Spanishquest for gold.

Zuni pueblo lies about 39 miles southof Gallup, New Mexico and can bereached from three sides on excellentpaved roads. Its population is about4000 and perhaps 1000 more Zunis livein other settlements of the reservationwhich comprises about 440,000 acres onthe banks of the Zuni River.

The Zunis are different from all otherIndians in background and language.According to ancient legends, they cameinto existence when two different groupsmet in the area about 800 or 900 yearsago and decided to merge.

The traveler approaching Zuni fromthe west gets the best view of the ancienpueblo. Corn Mountain, called Taaiyalone by the Zunis, forms a beautiful backdrop to the picturesque houses, a hightable land not unlike the famous mesaof the Hopi country, about 1000 feehigh above the Zuni River. It is to Taaiyalone the Zunis sent their women andchildren whenever enemies invaded thcountry.

The old part of the pueblo rises ona little hill but has now spilled over intthe adjacent countryside. The houses armade of adobe or of irregularly shapestones plastered with adobe. Formerly

An earl-day photo of a Zuni Puebl(above) from the Ben Wittick Colection, Santa Fe. Villages look mucthe same today. C orn Moun tain is ibackground. Even though today ZuIndians have many modern appliancesome baking is still done in adob

ovens.


25/44

t h e HIINIS

the houses were several stories high andthe roofs served as a patio for recreation.Living quarters, in those days, were inthe upper stories which could be reachedonly by ladders. At night, the ladderswere drawn up to provide safety frominvaders. Even today, the ladders are stillvery much in evidence, although mostmulti-story buildings have crumbled intodust and have been replaced with single-

story structures. Houses had to be so largebecause the Zuni home is based on matri-local residence. A young Zuni who getsmarried moves into the home of his wife'smother who is the owner of the house.

Jack and Quanita Kalestewa are excel-lent silversmiths and today make themodern jewelry of the Zuni Indiansunder a federally funded Zuni Crafts-men Cooperative Association program.They work in the modern workshop on

the Zuni Reservation, south of Gallup,New Mexico.

by Peter Odens

The Zunis are very friendly. Standingbefore one of the old pueblo-type houses,

one may suddenly be addressed by a child."Take my picture," a dark-skinned,

bright-eyed youngster chirps."Look," another may say, "my dog."

He may smile and ask to be photograph-ed. Unlike some other Indian youngsters,Zuni children do not expect to be paid forposing for tourists. They just want to befriendly.

The Zunis were never very responsiveto Christian missionaries and to this dayhave preserved their ancient rites. Visitorsare not allowed to take photographs ofthese rites but are allowed to attend mostof them. The Zuni religion is based onthe belief that everything in nature has asoul. Man, Zunis feel, must live in har-mony with nature.

Picturesque little ovens throughout thevillage form a special attraction for thevisitors. They were originally brought tothe Zuni country by the Spaniards andare used constantly today to bake sour-dough bread. But what has made theZunis famous throughout the country is

the fine work they turn out as silvesmiths.

Although the Zunis had worked copper and brass for many years, it wnot until 1872 they learned the art osilversmith from the Navajos and arou1890 they started adding turquoise. Sinthen they have made tremendous stridin the art and developed their own d

tinctive styles.Zuni craftsmen favor turquoise, bla

jet, coral and white and pink shells their modern jewelry. They have develoed the "channel" and are noted for themosaics and overlays.

The Zunis are also noted for thefetishes, a carving which usually resebles an animal or bird. A spirit is blieved to dwell in the object which cgive assistance, in the form of supenatural power, to its owner. The mocommon on the market are the ones usfor hunting, to which an arrowhead usually attached.

"We have some 400 famiies here whare engaged in silversmithing," Lewsaid. "Our jewelry has been made fcenturies and now we have bridged tgapthe way it is made today and titems we produce are in great demandand Zuni jewelry is as modern as tmorrow."

And so are the people of the land the Zunis.

I


26/44

FOSSIL

FALLSby George Hafer

W HEN TRAVELINGCalifornia High-way 395 through the northernreaches of the Mojave Desert, one isstruck by the vast foreboding topography

of the area. Heading north from Rands-burg the highway penetrates the El PasoMountains and enters Indian Wells Val-ley, the site of Ridgecrest, China Lakeand Inyokern.

The banded, sun-baked Argus Moun-tainR ang e to the, east andT gsoJM oun-

Tain Range to the north and the massiveSierraJ^eyadas to the west are disquiet-ing to the solitary traveler. Vast expansesof creosote bush, salt bush, winter fatand hop sage offer no encouragement. It

is difficut to believe that this seeminglysterile area once abounded with lushvegetation, rushing fresh water streamsand lakes shimmering in the sunlight.

Scientists theorize the end of the mostrecent glacial period occurred about4000 years ago. During this Wisconsinperiod water was much more abundantwith lakes and streams being fed by themelting glaciers high up in the SierraNevada Mountains.

Owens Lake was filled to an estimated

depth of 220 feet. Its overflow traveled26

southward to fill China Lake in IndianWells Valley and from there onwardsthrough Salt Wells Valley to SearlesBasin. Here another lake was formed that

covered nearly all of Searles Basin andbacked up through Salt Wells Valleyinto Indian Wells Valley.

The overflow from Searles Lakecoursed eastward then northward to fillPanamint Lake, a body of water 60miles long and 900,. feet deep!

The glacial waters finally came torest in a massive trough east of Pana-mint Lake to form Lake Manlej, esti-mated to have been 90 miles long and600 feet deep. This lake no longer

exists but the trough is still there. It is^alledJ3eath_Valley.

The salt-encrusted dry lake beds ofthese ancient bodies of water are wellknown to the desert traveler. However,not many are familiar with the evi-dence of the connecting streams. One ofthe most striking areas along the ancientwaterway is Fossil Falls.

Near the historic stagestop of Little.Lake, Highway 395 winds around theextremes of massive lava flows that

originated in the Coso Mountains. The


27/44

sheer basaltic cliffs from the easternand northern border of a small basincontaining a modest body of spring-fed water is also called Little Lake. Itis over these northern basaltic cliffsthat the overflow waters plunged fromOwens Lake.

When one arrives at the top of Fos-sil Falls he has the distinct impression

he has seen the place before in anightmare.Upon cooling, the large mass of

molten lava shrank and cracked to formmany narrow and deep fissures. Thesecracks were eroded by the Owens Lakeoverflow to form a weird, distortedlandscape. The normally jagged andpocked basalt was worn smooth andlusterous by the water-carried abrasives.

There are many deep circular holein the solid basalt formed by twirlinrocks caught in rotating water currentand grinding out deepening impressionOne such circular chimney reached depth of about 15 feet before the stoneground their way through the wall anback to the mainstream channel.

In this first stage the water droppe

approximately 40 feet as it gushed out othe deeply eroded cracks in the basalt tplummet over a sheer cliff nearly 20 feein height and then cataract over hugchunks of basalt to finally flood intLittle Lake Basin. The water lost an elevation of close to 100 feet in a distancof some 200 yards.

This little known fossil feature oContinued on Page H

The top of thefalls (above)is an awesomesetting. Southernportion of theHigh SierraMountains formthe westernborder of thevalley. Cascadingwater dropped

some 40 feet (left)through thesurface lava flow.The upper streambed (right)flowed along a50-foot widedepressioncreating thesewierd formations.


28/44

H i d d e n G o l d

o f t h e P i a uby JohnTow nleyANYONI; WHO reads western history is. familiar with the story of the In-dian who leads a white prospector to afabulous deposit of glittering gold ore.This old chestnut has been repeated somany times it usually is treated at bestas legendary, or ignored by the scholarlyresearcher. However, there is at leastone example of such a story being welldocumented. The locality is Delamar,Nevada, one of the best preserved ghosttowns in the Great Basin, where over

$10,000,000 in gold was produced priorto World War I.

In 1902, the Delamar mine had beenpaying dividends for almost eight years.Many of the larger stockholders were SaltLake City residents and news of the dis-trict was often printed in local news-papers. On April 27, 1902 theSalt LakeTribune carried an illustrated article onan alleged discovery of the deposit severaldecades earlier than the official locationdate of 1890.

The "glory hole" of Delamar w as the hiding place of more than $10,000,000 in

high-grade gold ore. Below, the town and mill operated by the Delamar Company.28

.According to the story, the discoveryof the Delamar lode was almost made bysome white prospectors in 1877, ratherthan 1890. Further, the deposit had beenknown to the Paiutes much earlier andthey vigorously intended to keep it unknown to the whites. The author began"There is scarcely any doubt that thegreat gold mines of De La Mar were firsdiscovered by a roving band of PaiuteIndians many years before the foot of awhite man trod the ground over the yellow treasure. It was a fatal find for thered men, the first victim being the Indian who betrayed the secret to thewhites. He was a son of old Tickabooan aged savage reputed to be 104 yearold who still cumbers the sidewalks oPioche.

"In the year 1877, Chitowich, the soncame in from one of .his periodical hunting trips with something more substantial than a robust appetite and a consuming thirst. He brought with him somfine looking samples of quartz alive witfree gold."

Two Pioche miners saw the samplesand had them assayed. The results werastonishing; over $1300 in gold to thton. They immediately began a campaigto force Chitowich to show them thlocation of his find. A couple of weekeffort, plus the promise of free roomand board for a lifetime, caused Chitowich to reflect on the tribal taboo concerning the location of the outcroppingThe next morning, the miners, togethewith Chitowich and his son George, lePioche and headed south along the weside of the Meadow Valley range. Thsecond night out, they were camped aCliff Springs when the two prospector

noticed bright flashes from signal fire


29/44

Brick in this power stationwas brought overland from Salt Lake Cityby wagon.Delamar was one of the first mining districtsto have electricity.The equipment

was sold as scrap during WorldWar II.

appearing at intervals on the mountainsto their east. Chitowich noticed themaswell and began to get uneasy. Thiswasthe first indication the whites had thatthe deposit was protected by the wholePaiute nation.

"Newton and Lamson (the miners)called to him that they would killhim ifhe did not stay where he was. For a timethis threat heldhim in check, but as theshouts of the tribesmen seemedto comenearer he threw discretion to the windsand made a dash for the chaparral.In-stantly, two guns rang out. Even in thedense darkness, the aim of one was sogood that a charge of shot found itsmark and brought a cry of pain fromthe treacherous guide,but it did notstop his flight.

"Determined at all costs to keeptheIndian from reachinghis own peopleand bringing the whole tribe downup-on them, Newton and Lamson sprangup and dashed away in pursuit.Thewounded man was not able to make verygood time, and was overtaken withinafew hundred feet. This timethe fron-tiersmen did pot miss. Leavingthe bodywhere it had been dispatched,the whitemen returned to their camp and be-thought themselvesof the small Indian

boy who had been in bed with his fath-er. No trace of him was to be found.His escape, made their situationas badas it had been before. Therewas noth-ing to do but pull stakes and get out ofthe dangerous neighborhood."

The eleven-year-oldson of Chitowichreached his family within several daysand related to them the facts of his fa-ther's death at the hands of the miners.An older son, Bill, went into isolationfor a week, then gathered abouthim aparty of other young Paiutemen. Theybegan one of the few Paiute outbreaksand had all of Lincoln County, Nevadaparalyzed for three months. Finally,theresidents of Pioche and Hiko organizedsearch partiesand kept in the saddleforweeks at a time. However, they couldnot locate the small and highly mobilegroup of Paiutes. In desperation, theyde-cided on mass punishmentand toldthelarge Paiute colony in the PahranagatValley that either they produced Bill,orfaced extinction.

In a few hours the bloodthirsty Billwas brought in on a pony, bound handand foot. The Indians said that theyhadnot seen George (the younger son) butreassured the whites that they would

Continued on Page 34

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29


30/44

by K. L. Boynton 1970

G OOD FOR top b illing in scientific circles practically any-where in the world, is that low-slung citizen of theSouthwest, the desert iguana, or crested lizard. This is thefellow you see hotfooting it over the scorching Mojave, Colo-rado, Sonoran and Baja California deserts, long after his peersamong reptiles have been forced to retire to cool burrows forthe day.

Known in scientific terms asDipsosaurus dorsalis(dry-lizard w ith-back-crest) this stout-bodied lizard with the smallblunt head and long tail has the honor of being the hottestreptile in North America. For, while the temperature of mostreptiles when active is between 86 and 104 F, Dipso runsaround normally with a high 111. In fact, he voluntarily toler-ates a rise to 115, and since the lethal limit for his genus be-gins around 116, he operates just short of a very close margin

of death.30

Biologists, naturally enough, have to find out how tscaly character gets away with it. Norris's pioneer study pvided the first details, and the hard work of several othzoologists contributed still more. In fact, a lot of peeking iDips's insides and private life is still going on today, becamore interesting facts keep turning up.

To begin with, all reptiles have a tough enough timcoping with the daily extremes found in deserts, particulathose arid lands of North America because they cannot matain a constant body temperature. Instead, their temperatconforms pretty much with that around them, rising in hedropping in cold.

Lacking the built-in heat-making machinery found birds and mammals, reptiles cannot warm themselves proply. Sluggish and helpless in the early morning chill, they msun themselves and absorb heat from warm soil and roc


31/44

before their temperature rises high enough for them to moveabout actively. Conversely, lacking sweat glands and othercooling systems for getting rid of heat effectively, they musthole up when the heat they have taken aboard sends theirtemperature to a dangerous level.

In a desert summer day when the thermometer common-ly hits 110 degrees there is actually little time when con-ditions are just right for optimum lizard living. Then, muchof the active time above ground is spent seeking cooler spots

here and there as the morning's heat picks up, so as to stretchout the period for feeding and indulging in clan life as longas possible. But thanks to certain key adaptations, this desertiguana or crested lizard is able to prolong his stay aboveground, thus exploiting his desert environment to the fullest.In doing so, he becomes a first class example of how one ani-mal species can enter a habitat normally off bounds for itskind, establish itself and flourish therein.

It would be nice to report that Dipso owes his success tobeing on the job earliest in the morning, but the truth of thematter is that he is last of all lizards to start work. Uma, thefringe-toed lizard, and other small ones have long been up,and in fact are becoming so hot in the rising sun they willsoon have to duck into their holes for the day.

Unplugging his burrow, Dipso presents a still sluggishface to the world, and is in need of further warming. Tiltingthis way and that to catch the sun's most direct rays, he's soonready for business. An excellent climber with his sharp clawsand long balancing tail, he hies up into a creosote bush forbreakfast.

Dipso is truly a creosote bush kid at heart. Not only doeshe consider its buds, blossoms and leaves exceedingly tasty, buthis very appearance also shows his clan's long evolutionaryassociation with the plant. His hide, patterned in a series ofblack and brown streaks and spots on a pinkish or white back-ground, looks very much like creosote twigs against sand. Infact, when he's parked on a branch, it is very hard to see whichis bush and which is lizard, a most desirable situation whenhawks, with lizards for breakfast on their minds, are doingthe looking.

Besides second story eating, Dipso climbs up into thesebashes when the ground becomes too hot, and thus escapessurface heat. This is an old desert iguana behavior trick de-veloped down through the ages, and is an important reason

why Dipso can stay out so long in a summer's day.

Sitting in the cooler air and in partial shade he still hasanother card to play in his deadly game with the desert. Thisis the added protection provided by a radiation shield built intohis body in the form of a black lining to his abdominal cavity.Certain other lizards (chuckwallas, side-blotched, collared, forexample) also have this lining. Dipso's shield is especiallyeffective, as Porter and Gates showed in their fine study ofdesert animals and solar radiation, for it keeps out at leasttwice as much ultra violet light which, if it entered the body,would damage internal organs and cause reproductive upset.So -well protected, Dipso can withstand direct sunlight betterand much longer.

Dipso has still another ace: his ability to change colAs the sun becomes hotter and brighter, his markings faHis skin, becoming much lighter in color, acts as a reflecnow, turning the hot rays aside, helping to prolong his stabove ground . But in spite of all these aids, he's still gettwarmer all the time, and the last trump has to be played.

This is his surprising tolerance of a very high body tepera ture. The very tissues of his body can stand excessheat, as Schmidt-Nielsen found in his cellular study of tanimal, and so Dipso, allowing his temperature to climb beyond that which kills other lizards, can stretch his abground activity period out for perhaps three hours.

At last even he has to give up, retreating to his burrdown among the roots of a creosote bush, there to stay ulate afternoon when another feeding session can take plaThis one, too, is short, for the great desert cools rapidly. Thhe spends the night in his dark burrow with the entranplugged against marauding snakes.

What's the alarm clock that gets him up? Not light, the door is firmly closed, and light cannot penetrate more tabout 3-5 cm. through sand. And how is it that this liza

emerging from his night-chilled burrow needs so little tto become warm enough for activity ?Details on the alarm clock are still lacking, but it is suspec

that as in other animals, Dipso must have a kind of intertiming device or biological clock that informs him it's tito get up. Also as zoologists McGinnis and D ickson fouin their interesting behavior-temperature study of these lizaDipso is by no means as lazy as previously thought. He's a good hour before he unplugs his door, moving toward entrance, an area already beginning to heat up with the sWarmed by this, and by his own exercise, he steps up metabolism, raising his waking-up temperature of about 8

to at least 95F.When at last he opens his door and steps out into t

sunshine, a great deal less time is required to bring his teperature up another five or six degrees or so to his minimactivity needs of about 101. This head start is a very useadaptation to desert life, for it is while he is within safety of his burrow he gets his engine revved up for buness topside.

Speed in getting over a hot terrain is also a big advantin desert living, and Dipso is equipped leg and musclewfor it. Tail high, toes flexed, he conducts his affairs on run. Stopping to rest a moment, he shoves and kicks asthe surface sand, pressing his belly down into the coolayers.

Naturally enough, Dipso does not lead a lonesome lthere being considerable society among his kind since thlizards congregate around the food supply. Encounters amothem as they go about their daily business get off to a starta kind of ballet consisting of stance taking, posturing doneby all parties, and in some cases athletic pushups by rapiraising and lowering the front part of their bodies.

Zoologist Carpenter, observing these strange goings osuspected they must mean something, since behavior play

very large part in animal species development and differention. He set about finding out what.31


32/44

Catching a batch of these lizards he marked them withdifferent paint designs for identification, and then put themtogether in a large outdoor sandy enclosure containing logsand cinder blocks for shade. Sitting comfortably close by undera canopy, he watched proceedings.

Practically the very first thing that occurred was the de-ciding of who was going to be boss, for it seems that you can-not put a group of individuals together of any kind withoutthis question coming up right away. While in human society

there may be subtle maneuvering, the lizard tribe's method ismore direct and in almost no time at all everybody knowswhere he is.

One big male, painted with orange speckles, demonstratedhow it is done. Immediately applying for the job of head liz-ard, he eliminated the rank and file by chasing them one byone into retreat. After the weaklings, he turned his attentionto two possible contenders, inviting each to question his quali-fications. Lowering his head and extending his dewlap, hestiffened his legs, arched his body and extended his tail fulllength, turning to give his opponent a full side view. He look-ed very much larger, and very, very tough. Facing the other

candidate, he began a series of pushups, raising and loweringhis head and shoulders in a distinct rhythm of movement.

This was enough for the first one who took off speedily,

Orange Speckles pursuing him to impress the matter upohim more firmly. But the second contender did not run, flinging the challenge back in return. Whereupon the two lizardsidled about, stiff-legged, tails extended, doing their rituaistic timed pushups. A fight then ensued, with tails used aweapons, each lizard trying to deliver the mightiest wallopsometimes hard enough to be heard twenty feet away. OrangSpeckles emerged triumphant, chasing the loser until cornerehe flattened out in submission, eyes closed, legs extended.

Eggs are laid late in June or early July undergroundusually three to eight in a clutch, the youngsters appearing othe scene through August. By fall they are the largest singage group, but a lot of them do not make it through the witer, due to their digging too shallow a hibernation burrowSurprisingly the youngsters grow very slowly. The young onamong Carpenter's batch studied in the spring were left ovefrom the previous summer's hatching, and yet were still onabout half grown. Not that this bothered them, for the smafry are exceedingly cocky, challenging each other by standinhigh on their legs, dewlap extended, and then stalking awain a very tough manner indeed.

This, as can be clearly seen, is very good practice for geing off on the right foot when at last they make their debinto the elite society: the hottest reptiles in No rth A merica.


33/44

Glacial waters from Fossil Falls cataracted overand around high b asaltic bouldersto flood out into Little Lake Basin.

FOSSIL FALLSContinued from Page27

California's desert landscapeis readilyaccessible over well-graded dirt roads.Two and one half miles northof LittleLake on Highway 395 turn to the easton the crossroad that skirtsthe southernreaches of Red Mountain, a sizeablevol-canic cinder cone. This road goes pastthe southern entranceto the Little LakeCinder Mine to a point six-tenths of amile from Highway395 where anotherdirt road comesin at about 150 degreesangle from the right.

Take this road to the right for three-tenths of a mile to a road that mergesata 150 degree angle from the left. Fol-low this road to the left for about three-tenths of a mile to roads end. From thispoint Fossil Fallsis but a seven minutehike on a well marked foot trail thro

197006 desert magazine 1970 june

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