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200W Boombox (How to build)

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This step by step guide will show you how to make your own boombox. So go forth and

gather your tools to create your own awesome sounding boombox.....

Tools you may need: Drill

Variety of drill bits

Table saw (or a normal wood saw)

Hack saw

Selection of screwdrivers

Wood and metal files

Chisels

Step 1Parts List

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Basic Info:

There are four main components to a boombox that determine how it performs:

The amplifier

The speakers

The power source

The housing

The amplifierI used was an unbranded 200W rms amplifier which was perfect for the deep bass

notes at high volume. It was also conservative of battery life. I used two speakers from maplin

(UK), which were 6 1/2 inchs, 75W peak, mid to bass drivers. The boombox is powered by a 9AH

sealed lead acid battery that is charged internally with a trickle charger. I used 18mm medium

density fibre or MDF to construct the housing but would recommend a thicker material for

yours, however the diamension will need changing.

Parts that you may require:

An amplifierin the range of 150W~300W RMS

2x 6 1/2" 75W hi-quality speakers 6 ohms

a sealed lead acid battery of about 9AH but the higher the capacity the better

several large off-cuts of3/4" MDF

sheet aluminum to make the interface panel various screws

heavy duty flight case handle

3.5mm headphone to RCA cable

textured stone effect paint

mains junction blocks

switches

wire

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Step 2The Housing

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The Box in boombox is made out of 6 pieces of MDF each (see first diagram):

2X panels of 18" X 12"

2X panels of 18" X 7"

2X panels of 10.5" X 7"

1. I used a circular saw to cut each piece accurately. If you ask the timber yard nicely, they may

cut the wood to your dimensions for you. If not, just mark up the lines using a rule and a set

square. Then cut them manually keeping the blade about 30 up at the back and along the

line. Now sand down the edges however don't take them off completely.

2. Now get the worst looking big panel, this will be the back of the boombox. Use the

second image to help when drilling screw holes for adjacent corner panel. Where B is the

back and A is a side panel. Remember that the pilot hole for the screw must be smallerthan the screw itself.

3. Attach the other side panels leaving the front panel for cutting the speaker holes in later.

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Front Panel:

For my speakers I needed two 6" holes in the front panel. To do this, do this:

1. Get a compass and mark up the two holes.

2. Drill a hole large enough to put a jig saw blade in.

3. Follow inside the line with the jigsaw.

4. Sand back the excess.

Step 3Time to Paint!

It is best to paint the housing now, before adding any major components as not damage

them.

What Paint ?

I used rust-oleum Black Granite textured spray paint as it gives a nice textured feel. I then added a

coat of glossy black on top to give it some shine.

How to paint:

1. Make sure all dust, grease and wax is removed.

2. Assemble the boombox (ie all 6 panels)

3. Lay an old newspaper down and place the boombox on it

4. Using MDF primer coat the entire surface and allow to dry.

5. Apply the textured paint and allow the dry.

6. Touch up any areas missed now.

7. Spray a fine layer of high gloss black on top and allow to dry.

8. With some p180 grit paper very lightly scuff the tops of the bumps making them grey. This

adds subtle but nice detail.

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Step 4Mount the Components

Image Notes

1. 12V battery with DIY aluminum retaining bracket.

2. Future spot for charger and xbox 12V psu

3. The many front panel screws.

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Image Notes

1. Unbranded car amplifier

It is now time to make space for each of the components in the box. BUT FIRST ....

Mount the huge speakers:

1. Place the speakers in holes we cut out earlier

2. Find screws that fit in the holes

3. Drill pilot holes that are smaller than the screws for each speaker.

4. Screw the speakers in place.

Mount the other internal components:

As your components may be different there is no set layout to use.Try to arrange every component

inside the box. This may take time but it should work out. For the battery I had to bend a piece of

aluminum to make a bracket in order to keep it in the center of the box. This is importantas

an unbalanced boombox may seem heavier then it is. The other components where easier as the

could be screwed down to the back panel. See the image to get an idea of component placement.

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Step 5Interface Panel

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Image Notes

1. Run from: battery (down), off (mid), mains (up)

2. Turns on 240V power supply

3. Rubber grommet for headphone cable

4. IEC socket

Fixtures and Fittings:The handle you use will be different so you will have to follow the manufactures instructions. Thecontrol panel on the other hand will be very similar. The control panel will allow you to swithcbetween operational and charging mode, as well as controlling the internal aux power supply.

I took a IEC power connector from a computer PSU to use as my power inlet. I also used a grommetto protect the headphone cable and two switches, one a spst rocker and a DPDT rocker. See thethird picture for the wiring diagram.

The PSU remain in standby untill the single switch is pressed. The charger stays on constantly as itdraws very little power when disconnected. However it cannot be left connected to the battery whenoff, as this drains the battery hence the circuit above.

To make the panel:

1. Score a 5" by 5" square onto some plate aluminum.

2. Mark up the switch bore holes

3. Clamp the aluminum to some scrap wood and then clamp that to the bench.

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4. Chain drill (multiple conjoining holes) around the inside of the markings.

5. File out the hole and repeat for the other switch.

6. Cut out the panel, file any bur of and rub it down with p180 grit paper.

To mount the panel:

1. Hole the panel to the housing and drill 4 corner holes

2. Screw down the panel

3. Drill and chisel the MDF out of the switch hole.

4. File back unit the switches can be pushed in.

All that is left is to wire up the panel and connect up the speakers.

Note about REM - with many thanks to karlpinturr for pointing this out:

Standard car amplifiers have a connection next to ground called REM, this is called remote and is

used the switch the amplifier from standby to on. REM is normally triggered with 12V by the head

unit (cd player) in a car. It is used to have a quick power up time however leaving the 12V of the amp

permanently connected will drain your battery therefor I just power it up directly with the 12V input..

Just short the REM to the 12V input and turn the amplifier on by connecting and disconnecting the

12V input to the battery.

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Step 6DONE!

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It is just down to the finishing touches now, but you should be fine with that. I forgot to mention I hadalso added some plastic feet to the bottom to protect the floor.

My Final Specs are: 160W RMS

14 hour battery life (when used lightly) 50lbs

2,000,000 dB (lie)

Check Out the Video:

Sorry for low volume it was early in the morning.