2010 istituto valorizzazione salumi italiani deli meats story campaign financed through...

2010ISTITUTO VALORIZZAZIONE SALUMI ITALIANI

DELI MEATS STORY

Campaign financed through contributions from the European Union and the Italian State

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1. Before Deli Meats: pigs

2. PDO and DGI Deli meats: specification

3. How to identify them?

4. Types of products

5. Sensory analysis of deli meats

DELI MEATS STORYDELI MEATS STORY


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The IVSI has been working since The IVSI has been working since 1985 to widen the public’s 1985 to widen the public’s

konwledge of typical deli meats konwledge of typical deli meats and disseminate accurate and disseminate accurate

information on their nutritional information on their nutritional values as well as the cultural, values as well as the cultural, production and gastronomic production and gastronomic

aspects of these productsaspects of these products

The Istituto Valorizzazione Salumi Italiani


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Before deli meats: pigs

The history of pigs (the Italian word for “pig” is “maiale”, from the goddess Maia), keeps pace with the history of mankind and later becomes a symbol on in some mythologies. Pigs were already known in the Neolithic Age, as they were superior to other animals and were the first to be tamed and whose meat was very much appreciated.

Almost all the ancient peoples used pork very much, from the Assyrians to the Babylonians, to the Sumerians, Chinese, Phoenicians, Egyptians.

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In Greece, pigs were associated to the earth and were so familiar to the Kings that the latter used to breed them in their courtyards. In the Odyssey, although the swineherd Eumaeus, faithful servant of Ulysses, didn’t recognize his lord, he killed the fattest pig and sacrificed its hairs to the gods, in order to celebrate his guest.

Still in Greece for a series of symbols, the blood of pigs was used to purify murderers, as happened with the matricide Orestes, who had killed his mother Clytemnestra that had been Agamemnon’s unfaithful wife.


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The Romans will give pigs the gastronomic dignity they deserve, followed by the Celts and Gauls later on.

In the Celtic symbols, pigs were associated with the concept of fortune and abundance.

Meeting a sow signified the founding of an important city. Back from the Trojan War, Aeneas was previously told that he would find a white sow which was having thirty white piglets, and, after having met that sow and sacrificed it to the goddess Juno, he founded the city of Alba Longa, which precisely means white.


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The term “deli meats” evokes salt, which is the natural preservative par excellence. It has always been used to dehydrate meat (not only pork), inhibit the development of microorganisms, enhance flavour, favour the seasoning process and preservation. Therefore, deli meats are based on raw or cooked meat, almost always with the addition of salt, sometimes with animal fat, spices and herbs and, if needed, other ingredients and preservatives.

Deli meats: definition

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Two main groups can be identified:

1) This group is made up of anatomical full pieces (such as ham) and, in turn, includes raw and cooked deli meats.

ANATOMICAL FULL PIECES

RAW COOKED

Deli meats: classification

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Two main groups can be identified:

2) This group is made up of minced meat stuffed into a tube of animal gut (such as salami) and, in turn, is divided into raw and cooked deli meats.

MINCED MEAT

RAW COOKED

Deli meats: classification

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For deli meats made from anatomical full pieces:

ANATOMICAL FULL PIECE

MATURING/SMOKING

SEASONING

SALTING

From meat to deli meats

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For deli meats made from stuffed minced meat:

MINCING AND CURING

STUFFING

TYING

MIXING

DRYING

SEASONING

From meat to deli meats

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In order to benefit from a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) or a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), agricultural food products must strictly comply with a specification. The Specification must include at least the following elements:the name of deli meats;the description of deli meats;setting the limits of the geographical area;the historical elements which prove the origin from the geographical area;the description of the method used to obtain the deli meats, including the methods of conditioning and packaging.

PDO & PGI deli meats: specification

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The trademark PDO refers to a product being produced in a region or country, whose qualities and features are essentially or exclusively attributable to the geographical environment (terms which includes natural and human factors). The whole production, transformation and processing must take place in the defined area, in compliance with a well-defined traditional recipe. The trademark PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) introduces a new level of protection that takes account of the social, economic development of this sector, giving more emphasis on production techniques instead of focusing on the wines of a geographical area. Therefore, the acronym identifies a product being produced in a region or a country, whose qualities, reputation, recipe and features can be attributable to the geographical origin, and at least one stage of its production and/or transformation and/or processing takes place in the defined area.

Two trademarks for two different types of protection

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A control body is:an independent third-party entity which is authorized by the MIPAAF

Checking the compliance with the

specification

Making sure that PDOs and PGIs are

only used on the products compliant

with the specification.

Guaranteeing the controls along the

entire chain of production (20,000

controls/year)

ITS TASKS

Controls System

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Council Regulation (EC) No. 510/06 (former Council Regulation (ECC) No. 2081/92) They are involved in the valorisation, promotion and protection of PGI and PDO deli meats.As far as protection is concerned, the role of recognized consortia is defined by Law No. 526/99 and its implementing decrees of the year 2000, which establish some basic criteria for the PDO and PGI system:1.The control on production is different from the role of production consortia. 2.Consortia are involved in:

a) Promotion;b) Valorisation;c) Protection of the designations

Protection is subject to Council Regulation (EC) No. 510/06 (former Council Regulation (ECC) No. 2081/92), and, in Italy, to Legislative Decree No. 297/04 and containing the “Penalty provisions under Council Regulation (ECC) No. 2081/92, concerning the protection of the geographical indications and designations of origin of agricultural and food products” published in the Official Journal no.293 dated 15 December 2004). This decree indicates, among other things, the conditions that are necessary for consortia in order to carry out supervisory controls in cooperation with the Inspectorate for Fraud Repression and, if needed, with surveillance agents qualified as public security agents.

Protection Consortia

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LabellingThe indications which are necessary for all the PDO or PGI deli meats are as follows:

•The designation;

•The Community stamp;

•The expression “Guaranteed by the Ministry for Agricultural, Food

and Forestry Policies”;

•The logo of consortia, where it appears.

How to identify them?

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On the marketPDO and PGI deli meats can be marketed as follows:

•Full price;

•Pieces;

•Pre-packaged;

•Unpacked, if sliced in front of consumers.

How to identify them?

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Preservation Deli meats give their best if they are eaten shortly after they are purchased.

Pre-packaged products can be preserved for a longer period of time, and their aroma and flavour stay the same, tank to their packaging.

They can be marketed in entire pieces, as unpacked or vacuum-packed deli meats, divided into pieces, sliced and vacuum-packed or pace in modified atmosphere.

What is important to know about deli

meats

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Here are some examples of the most significant PDO and PGI products:1.Bresaola della Valtellina PGI2.Coppa Piacentina PDO3.Cotechino Modena PGI4.Culatello di Zibello PDO5.Mortadella Bologna PGI6.Pancetta Piacentina PDO7.Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO8.Prosciutto Toscano PDO9.Salame Brianza PDO10.Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora PDO11.Speck Alto Adige PGI12.Zampone Modena PGI

Type of products

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► HistoryThe origin of the Bresaola della Valtellina PGI dates back to the Late Middle Ages. The technique of preservation of meat through salting and drying was widespread throughout the Alps.

This name has an uncertain origin: still today, in the dialect of Chiavenna the expression “sala come brisa” indicates a very salty kind of meat; close to this area, there is Switzerland, where the term “brisa” means ricotta cheese with salt and pepper. According to another hypothesis, this name is linked to the late Latin term “brasaula”, from “brasatula” (meat minced on the bragia) from germanic “brasa” that is grilled, as in the past this product was salted and then immediately dried in rooms which were warmed through braziers.

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The area of the Bresaola della Valtellina PGI is the whole province of Sondrio, in the Lombardy region of Italy.

The Bresaola della Valtellina PGI is a cylindrical cold cut, based on salted, naturally seasoned beef, which is eaten in its raw form.

The drying and seasoning periods last from 4 to 8 months, depending on the size of deli meats.

The slices are brilliant red, just a little bit darker on the edge, with small veins of fat. The smell is slightly aromatic; the flavour is strong, never acid.

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► On the tableIt is sliced in thin slices (1 to 1,5 mm thick). Traditionally, it is accompanied with juniper butter curls and rye bread. But also with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is very much appreciated ► Organoleptic characteristics Consistency: solid and elastic.Aspetto al taglio: contact and without splits. Colore: the lean part: unvarying red with a dark edge, which is just indicated.The fat part: white.Smell: delicate and slightly aromatic. Flavour: pleasant, moderately strong, never acid.

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► HistoryThe origin of the Mortadella Bologna would date back to the Roman Age in the territories where the Etruscans lived, between the Emilia-Romagna and Latium.This name would come from “mortarium”, the mortar where pork was minced and which appears on a funeral stele of the Imperial Age, kept in the archaeological museum of Bologna, or from “myrtatum”, product stuffed with meat, flavoured with myrtle berries. A mortar with pestle is the official symbol of the Corporation of the Salaroli that posed the seals of guarantee to the mortadella of Bologna, whose first coding of production (1661) was carried out thanks to Cardinal Farnese.

Mortadella Bologna PGI

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The production zone of the Mortadella Bologna PGI includes Emilia Romagna, Piedmont, Lombardy, Veneto, Tuscany, Marche, Latium and the province of Trento.

The Mortadella Bologna PGI is an oval or cylindrical cold cut, made from pork, minced and reduced to an emulsion, which is first stuffed and than cooked.

Morphological and organoleptic characteristics: slices have a velvety surface, the color is unvarying bright pink, and at least 15% of it is occupied by white pearly squares of fat.

Its taste is aromatic and slightly spicy; its distinctive flavour is delicate with peppery touches and without traces of smoking.


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► On the tableIt can be sliced using the knife with quite thick slices or using a bacon-slicer with thin slices, it is suitable for a sandwich as well as for fried dumplings. If it is divided into small cubes, it can be a nice finger food as an appetizer or an ingredient that flavours cold pastas, salted cakes, flat bread or salads.


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► Organoleptic characteristics Form: oval or cylindrical shape.Consistency: this product must be solid and its consistency must not be elastic.Appearance when sliced: the cut surface must be velvety and its colour must be unvarying bright pink. A slice must include small white pearly squares of fat, which must represent not less than 15% of the total mass, and these squared can be combined with muscle fractions. The squares must be uniformly distributed and stick to the dough. Sacs of fat and jelly must not be present and the veil of fat must be contained.Colour: unvarying bright pink.Smell: typical aromatic smell.Flavour: typical, delicate flavour without traces of smoking.


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► History The origin of the Pancetta Piacentina, basing on the finding of written documents, dates back to the 16th Century. Like all the other deli meats from Piacenza, also the pancetta was considered a precious gift. In the 18th Century, the wise Cardinal Giulio Alberoni managed to solve important issues, by sending the famous products of Piacenza to politicians and kings.The production area includes the whole territory of the province of Piacenza. The pigs used, must be born, bred and slaughtered in Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna.

Pancetta Piacentina PDO

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The Pancetta Piacentina PDO is a cylindrical cold cut and weighs from 4 to 8 kilos, obtained from the adipose parts of pigs.After salting, it passes through a seasoning period of three months.

Morphological and organoleptic characteristics: inside a slice, the colour red of the lean part spaces out with the colour white-pinkish of fat, according to a figure which is similar to concentric circles or a spiral. The smell is delicate and pleasant with slightly spicy touches; inside our mouth slices melt and the fattiest the cold cut is, the sweetest its flavour is the is.


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► On the tableIf it is cut in thin slices placed on a chopping board, it is suitable for pieces of fried polenta and for “burtleina”. It is suitable for the sweetness of figs and don’t miss it wrapped around prunes, and slightly browned in a pan.


► Organoleptic characteristics Form: cylindrical shape.Colour: bright red with white parts off at in the middle.Aroma and flavour: meat with a pleasant smell, sweet with a strong taste.

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► On the marketThe “Culatello di Zibello” is marked in its full size, divided into pieces, vacuum-packed or packed in a protective atmosphere. The Culatello di Zibello is not PDO-certified when sliced, therefore, it cannot be sold pre-packed.

Culatello di Zibello PDO

► History It seems that 1332, during the wedding feast of Andrea dei Conti Rossi and Giovanna dei Conti Sanvitale, a few Culatelli were among the presents, received by the spouses. But the first official testimony of the Culatello goes back to 1735, when this word was found in a document of the Municipality of Parma.Like a jewel of the earth kissed by River Po, cuddled by the mist of winter which lightens the torrid heat of summer, the Culatello assumes legendary qualities.

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► History The origin of Prosciutto di San Daniele is connected with the settlements of the Celts, the first to use salt to preserve pork. The Romans already knew ham, as in Rome a part (today’s via Panisperna) was dedicated to bread “panis” and ham, “perna (sicca)”. Since then, ham has had a great success and in the late Middle Ages it was destined to the patriarch. In more modern times, in the Thirties, Gabriele D’Annunzio from the Vittoriale used to send a friend in search for the San Daniele.

Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO

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The production area includes the entire territory of the municipality of San Daniele del Friuli, in the province of Udine. The breeding and slaughtering of pigs used, must come from the central, northern regions: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marche, Latium and Abruzzo.

The Prosciutto di San Daniele PDO has the shape of a “guitar” (because of the pressure on it) obtained by the pigs’ thighs, and also the final part is maintained and it is called piedino. The processing lasts not less than 13 months, of which at least 8 of seasoning.Morphological and organoleptic characteristics: slices are red – pinkish with stripes of pure fat. The presence of white dots is linked to the crystals of tyrosine, a natural substance coming from the aging of proteins.The smell is intense, the taste is sweet with the aroma typical of seasoning.


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► On the tableIt can be eaten alone or with local bread. It is not suitable for intrusive flavours like pickles.


► Organoleptic characteristics Appearance: ham with a foot and a bone or without any foot and no bones.External colour: it presents pigskin with a golden colour, while the mask is ruby red and the fat part is white/golden, not rancid. Consistency: compact.Internal aspect: slices are compact when sliced, without divisions between the lean and the fatty parts.Internal colour: the lean part is red – pinkish. The fatty part is pure, not rancid.Smell: typical, delicate, seasoned.Flavour: delicate, not salty, not bitter.

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► History The history of the salami belongs to the macro-region which is called Padania and is connected to the domination of The Longobards. The name is linked to the food portion that hunters used to bring with them when they were hunting.The production area of the Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora PDO entirely includes the following reigions: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Tuscany, Marche, Latium, Abruzzo and Molise.

Salamini Italiani alla Cacciatora PDO

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The Salamini Italiani Alla Cacciatora PDO have a cylindrical shape and they are pork-based, with a diameter which is almost 6cm long, and weigh 300 g on average.The seasoning period is short, at least 10 days, in order to allow its immediate consumption as happened in the past.

Morphological and organoleptic characteristics: slices are ruby red with some white interference, due to the well-distributed pieces of lards.The small is delicate; the flavour is sweet and never acid.


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► On the tableIf it is sliced, it can be served mainly as a starter.Its matching with cheese is a typical one.We now propose this recipe: Salad of Salame Cacciatore PDO ► Organoleptic characteristics Appearance: cylindrical shape, in a natural and artificial tube, made up on animal gut. Consistency: solid and not elastic. Appearance when sliced: slices are solid and uniform.Colour of slices: ruby red with the grains of fat that are well distributed.Aroma: delicate and typical.Flavour: typical taste, which is sweet, delicate but never acid.


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The sensory analysis is useful to know the overall result of all the feelings provoked by a type of food, and also allows us to understand which sensory characteristics mostly influence the final judgement of consumers.

The senses are the most useful instruments to assess the quality of food and they provide information, which cannot be obtained in other ways, because they link the chemical-physical characteristics to the impact on consumers.

Sensory analysis of deli meats

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The different organoleptic features can be assessed according to the five senses. The senses mostly involved are: sight, smell and taste, while hearing and touch become of secondary importance.With sight you can identify colours, shapes and appearance. With smell, it is possible to assess aromas. With taste it is possible to identify the flavour of food. With hearing and touch it is possible to assess if something is crumbly, its texture...

Assessment of organoleptic characteristics

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It is important to point out the difference between the concepts of smell, aroma and flavour.

Smell includes all the feelings perceived through the olfactory epithelium of our nose and connected to taste.

Aroma is the feeling perceived behind our nose, that is after having chewed or swallowed food.

Flavour is the sum of tactile, olfactory, retro-olfactory and taste feelings that come when a type of food is introduced in the oral cavity.

Assessment of organoleptic characteristics

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Visual analysisThe visual analysis of deli meats can be different according to the type of product that we are considering: stuffed products, raw deli meats, cooked deli meats, smoked deli meats. As for the stuffed products, such as salami, the visual assessment first considers the external moulds that are uniformly distributed on all the surface. In the cooked deli meats, it is important to assess:•The regularity of the shape;•The disposition of the pigskin;•The absence of burns and haematomas;•The colour.The fatty part, which is for “covering” or “interference patterns”, convey softness and tastiness to the deli meats and must be white.


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Olfactory examinationThe olfactory characteristics of deli meats come from seasoning of the lean and fatty part of meat, together with the effect of the various ingredients used for the preparation.

Gustative examination The gustative perception allows us to isolate the salty part, which dominates the other flavours.The acid feeling doesn’t have to cover all the gustative feelings.For the gustative assessment of the deli meats the following elements must be analysed:succulence;butteriness;palatability.


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2010 istituto valorizzazione salumi italiani deli meats story campaign financed through...

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