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AirJet SpinningPerspectives for the future

TENCEL® at 20New Orleans, December 5th, 2012

Hans LeitnerProject Manager Special ProjectsBusiness Unit Fibers

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Content of the presentation

Ideas supporting developments

Benefits / Limitations of established spinning systems

Requirements for new spinning technologies

Air Jet Spinning – the latest development in spinning technology

Current and new applications of AirJet spun yarns

The market prospects of AirJet spinning

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Economy & DevelopmentsDevelopments are driven by the idea to offer products which

are better in quality than established productsoffer characteristics not known to date could be produced more economically

There is no difference between the textile industry and any otherindustry

To become a commercial success developments have to matchquality and / or production standards of established products

Developments must have advantages compared to establishedproducts (better quality, better wear properties, lower price …) to become attractive for the final customer

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Economy & DevelopmentsAny development regardless if it is related to fiber, to yarn or fabricproduction will be crosschecked against parameters and characteristics known from established fibers, yarns, fabrics orprocessing technologies

Characteristics of ringspun yarns / fabrics are the quality targets, whichhave to be matched by any new spinning system

Production costs of ringspinning are the benchmark a new spinningsystem has to match

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RingspinningBenefits & Limitations

Ringspinning without any doubt sets the targets for any new spinningsystem in terms of flexibility, yarn quality, the count range which couldbe spun and last but not least for the productivity

Ringspinning has its limitations in terms ofProductivity Spindle speed, traveller speed, total draft,

yarn package weight…..Processing costs Add. costs for the roving and winding process

Spinning triangle The reason for yarn hairiness and one of thesources for weakplaces in the yarns

Spinning tension Could create add. limitations when fiberssensitive to thermal stress are processed…

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RotorspinningBenefits & Limitations

Rotorspinning has reduced processing costs by eliminating the rovingprocess, the integration of winding & quality control into the spinningprocess and a significantly increased productivity. Automatic piecingand doffing have established automation in yarn production….

Rotorspinning has its limitations inYarn structure Which is the reason for the significant lower

strength, the characteristic fabric touch and thelimited count range compared to ringspun yarns

Processing speed Limited for synthetics or blends with syntheticfibers compared to cotton or man made fibersDepending on the rotor diameter / length of fiber

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New Spinning Systems Basic Requirements

Market research predicts that global fiber consumption will reach~ 100 Mio tons per year by 2020 and further growth is expected*

We expect that the annual fiber production / consumption will grow by 30 Mio to within 10 years

The market for spun yarns will predominantly grow in the segment of fibers with characteristics similar to cotton (fineness and staple length)

Developments of new spinning systems will concentrate on this segmentor will try to find alternatives to the established methods of yarn production

Concepts like the Uniplex System from DuPont and SSM are working on a single step technology to transfer filaments into yarn with spun yarnappearance

* Source: Allen Terhaar / Kevin Latner – Leadership in Cotton is about more then Size

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Global Yarn Production - Estimate

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

Yarn

Mar

ket

Mio

t/ye

ar

3 6 12 18 24 30 40 50 60 80 100 120 140

Yarn count NeSource – Textilmaschinenfabrik Rieter

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New Spinning SystemsBasic Requirements

Yarn structure has to be similar to those of ringspun yarns

Yarn strength and elongation should be as close as possible to thefigures known from ringspun yarns

High flexibility related to the fibers processedProcessing of 100 % cotton, man made fibers, blends of cotton with man made or synthetic fibers (should be) has to be possible

Productivity per spinning position has to be higher than the one knownfrom established spinning systems

The count range of a new spinning system should be similar to thoseof ringspinning

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Spinning Limits Cotton Type Spinning

0102030405060708090

100110120130140150

1,7 dtex 1,3 dtex 1,0 dtex 0,8 dtex

Yar

n co

unt -

Ne

100 fibers - OE

75 fibers - Air Jet

65 fibers - Air Jet

55 fibers - Ring

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New Spinning Systems Basic Requirements

Spinning tension has to be as low as possible to avoid thermal stress to minimize the chance that synthetic fibers / yarns get damaged byexcessive heat during processing

Yarn hairiness should be improved compared to ringspun yarnsextremely important for yarns dedicated to knit applications

Winding process and quality control must be integrated in thespinning process

Automatic piecing and doffing is a must

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New Spinning Systems - Conclusions

A spinning system which overcomes the limitations of establishedsystems will become extremely important for the yarn production in thefuture

Of all the new spinning systems launched in the last 25 years AirJetSpinning technologies like the Murata MVS system or the RieterCom4®Jet system J 10 / J 20 meet most of the requirements listed

The first AirJet Spinning system sold in significant numbers was the MJS system of Murata launched in 1981, followed by the MVS system in 1997

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New Spinning Systems AirJet Spinning

Murata offers the MVS type 870, Rieter the Com4®jet J 20

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AirJet SpinningMarket Introduction

Like for any new spinning technology it took several years to establishthe AirJet Spinning technology due to

differences in the yarn structure and yarn characteristicsdifferences in the touch of fabrics based on AirJet spun yarnsreservations of the customers towards fabrics based on a newtechnology a lower variety of fibers, which could be processed, made itdifficult at first for the AirJet technology to become accepted

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Characteristic of Yarns Spun withDifferent Spinning Systems

Open End - Rotor Air - Jet

2-Nozzles (MJS)

Air- Jet

Vortex (MVS)

Ring

conventional

Ring

Compact

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Todays Situation – AirJet SpinningThe AirJet spinning technology is well established for the production of cellulosic fibers like Lenzing Viscose, Lenzing Modal®, TENCEL® and blends

Sales figures of Murata and Rieter confirm that AirJet spinning can beconsidered as an established spinning technology

At present more than 1000 AirJet spinning machines (generation MVS 861 / 870 and J10 / J20) are installed globally. Information from the market indicatethat at least 300 Air Jet machines are sold annually

Based on production figures for Lenzing Viscose we can calculate that 100 AirJet spinning machines (100 spinning positions) produce about 41.000 to of yarns / year of Ne 30/1

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AirJet SpinningCurrent Applications

VI. 참여업체완제품샘플 : S&D FABRIC

ECOSIL MODAL 40’s

S&D 848MO

ECOSIL MODAL 40’s + 20D

S&D 949MO

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AirJet SpinningCurrent Applications - Knits

Due to parameters like a low hairinessmuch less fiber lint during further processingan improved pilling performancea reduced spiralityan extremely even fabric appearance

Air Jet spun yarns are meanwhile well established for theproduction of knitted fabrics

MicroModal® or Tencel®Micro fibers will expand the spinning limits of the AirJet technology and are improving the softness of AirJet spunyarns / fabrics significantly

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AirJet SpinningExtended Applications – Wovens

Until today AirJet spun yarns are only used to a small extent for theproduction of woven fabrics

Results of woven developments, comments made by customers, fabric developments / fabrics available on the market

are a clear indication that AirJet spun yarns have as well a potential to become important for the production of woven fabrics

To get a better understanding of the possibilities to use AirJet spunyarns for woven applications we have run and we are still running a number of developments

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AirJet Spinning - WovensSupported by yarns from different customers and spun inhouseLenzing has made woven developments based on AirJet spun yarnsin counts between Ne 14/1 and Ne 80/1

One of these tests was made to see if a fabric dedicated to a technicalenduse made out of AirJet spun TENCEL® yarns can match thestrength of a fabric based on ringspun combed cotton – Mako* type

Fabric construction – twill 2/1, Ne 20 x 20, density 98 x 67,3

The strength of the AirJet spun fabric is significantly higher than thestrength of the fabric based on combed cotton

(*)Mako cotton, Egyptian extra-long staple cotton, from the name of Mako bey, in whose garden Jumel discovered a cultivar of this cotton

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AirJet Spinning – WovenTechnical Fabric

Fabric strength woven - comparison 100% Cotton vs. 100% Tencel

250

350

450

550

650

750

850

950

1050

1150

1250

1350

1450

1550

Breaking strength warp [N] Breaking strength weft [N]

[N]

100 % Cotton - OE 100 % Combed Cotton - Mako100 % Tencel Standard - AJ

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AirJet Spinning - WovensBy joint developments with customers shirting fabrics have beenrealised in yarn counts up to Ne 60/1 out of TENCEL®Micro and TENCEL®/Cotton

This project was started with plain weave constructions like 150 x 115The strength of the TENCEL®Micro yarns in Ne 60/1 reached ~ 21 cN/tex(tested at 20 seconds/break)

Workwear and Corporatewear fabrics based on AirJet spun TENCEL®/ Polyester blends have been developed and launched

To create fabrics of superior quality we have started these developmentswith two plyed AirJet spun yarns in Ne 41/2 in plain weave, twill and broken twill and constructions like 94 x 71 and 94 x 94

Some quality figures of these fabrics are demonstrated at the next pages

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AirJet Spinning - WovenWorkwear

Workwear - TENCEL® /Polyester

Blend ratio 50/50

Fabric weight 180 g/m²

Weave 3/1 twill

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AirJet Spinning - WovenCorporate Wear

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5

10

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25

30

Ust

er C

V%

Thin

- 50

%

Thic

k +

50%

Nep

s +

200%

Nep

s +

280%

cN/te

x

CV%

cN

/tex

Elon

gatio

n %

CV%

Elon

gatio

n

Ne 41 TENCEL®/Polyester

Ne 41/2 TENCEL®/Polyester

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AirJet Spinning - WovenCorporate Wear

Fabric comparison - Breaking strength

500

550

600

650

700

750

800

850

900

950

1000

Breaking strength warp [N] Breaking strength weft [N]

[N]

Plain weave Broken Twill

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AirJet Spinning - WovenCorporate Wear

Fabric comparison - Abrasion resistance - Martindale

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5000

10000

15000

20000

25000

30000

35000

40000

45000

Martindale - undamaged Martindale - till hole formation

Plain weave Broken Twill

Cyc

les

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AirJet SpinningCurrent Applications

At present AirJet spun yarns are spun in counts between Ne 14/1 and Ne 50/1

In line with the global yarn production, "traditional" counts like Ne 30/1 and Ne 40/1 are the most important counts spun on AirJet systems

Until today the majority of the Airjet spun yarns are used for theproduction of circular knits

Alternative applications for AirJet spun yarns could be flat knits, seamlessfabrics (yarns based on Microfibers)Basic trials with AirJet spun yarns have been made with warp knitting

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Global Spinning Capacity

Source: ITMF, GherziFuture Trend of AJ

12 24 36 48 60

100%

0%

50%

Glo

bal R

epar

titio

nof

sp

indl

es/

roto

rs/ a

irjet

200 [Ne]

YarnCount

Ring spinning (global)240 mn installed spindles (not all operative) – producing ~26 mio t of yarns

~ 85 mn spindles producing~ 5 mn to of fine count yarns

~ 35 mnspindlesproducing7‐8 mn tocoarse yarns

~ 120 mnspindlesproducing~ 13 mn to of medium count yarns

Airjet spinning (MJS / MVS / J10 + J20)4.2 mn spindle equivalentProducing 0.5 mn to of yarns

OE spinning~ 9 mn rotors(40 mn spi. equiv.)producing10 mn to of yarn

Installed spindles and short staple yarn production 2010

Source: Gherzi estimates

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AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Additional Applications

To expand the market of AirJet yarns significantly we consider it ofextreme importance to explore the use of AirJet spun yarns in wovenfabrics.

Quality arguments accepted in knits (eg. the improved pillingbehaviour) are valid as well for woven fabrics

The high strength of TENCEL® fibers will help to overcome one of thelimitations of AirJet spun yarns, the lower strength compared to ringspun yarns.

TENCEL®Micro yarns in Ne 100/1 have been the finest AirJet spunyarns which we have used to realise woven developments

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AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Spinning Limits

During spinning tests in 2011/ 2012 with 100 % MicroModal® Air (0,8 dtex) on AirJet spinning machines we have reached yarn countssignificantly finer than Ne 100/1

Trials like that confirm that the technical limits of the AirJet Spinningtechnology should be evaluated further in much more details to answerquestions like

Will it be possible to spin AirJet yarns with less than 70 fibers / cross section / yarn at industrial conditions and with excellent quality figures?Which fibers would be the best to spin fine AirJet yarns economically?Fibers like TENCEL® (Micro) will strongly support the further expansion of the AirJet spinning technology especially for woven fabrics

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AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Fibers processed

Development of the AirJet Spinning technology has to fine tune theprocess to be able to spin 100 % Cotton (if possible carded cotton) and 100 % Polyester

Processing of carded cotton on the AirJet system has been declared toppriority by one of the machine manufacturers

Processing of fiber blends can be considered as establishedSpinning limits for blended yarns have to be evaluated individually dependingon the characteristics of the blending partner and the final applicationAirJet spun yarns based on blends like Viscose / Polyester, TENCEL® / Polyester, Lenzing Modal® / Cotton, Lenzing Modal® / Silk and even blendswith linen are offered commercially

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Total Spun Yarns 36’000 t

100% CO carded14’000 t

62’000 SE

Blend CO carded /PES 4’000 t22’000 SE

Blend CO carded /CV 500t – 400 SE

100% CO combed4’000 t

37’000 SE

Blend CO combed/PES 4’000 t27’000 SE

Blend CO combed/CV 700t – 5‘600 SE

100% Synthetic‐PES SF Yarn 7’000  t68’000 SE

100% CV Yarn 1’500 t – 13‘000 SEBlend PES/CV‐Yarn 1’500 t – 13’000 SE 

2010 [´000 t and ´000 SE]

Total SE ~250’000 SE13’000 t~40’000 SE

21’000 t~173’000 SE

1’000 t~27’000 SE

4 18-20 40 60 200

N°

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

89

Global Yarn Production – related to Individual Fibers

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AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Fabric Quality

Quality arguments like

the low yarn hairinesscombined with an improved pilling performance of knitted and woven fabricsthe significantly reduced development of fiber lint during fabricprocessing

have been (and will still be) of help to establish the AirJet Spinningtechnology in a much larger way than it is established today

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AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Fabric Quality

Variations of the machine settings (processing speed and air pressure) will allow the production of fabrics with modified touch (crisper hand, softer hand…)

Processing of Microfibers will offer the possibility to create soft(er) fabrics

A significant better visual regularity and appearance of Airjet spunfabrics – knits or wovens – will become a quality argument

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Fabric EvenessRingspun – AirJet Spun Yarn

TENCEL® Micro LF 0,9 / 34 carded at C60, Siro spun, Ne 40/1

TENCEL® Micro LF 0,9 /34 carded at C60, AirJet yarn, Ne 40/1

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AirJet SpinningPerspectives - Summary

Lenzing is convinced that AirJet spinning systems will win a significantshare for the production of spun yarns in future

Our commitment for the AirJet spinning technlogy is based on thefollowing reasons

The expected increase in the production of synthetic and man made cellulosic fibers to meet the growing demand for fibersAn expansion of the applications eg. into woven fabricsA global trend towards yarns in finer counts (Ne 40 and finer…) The quality advantages for fabrics out of AirJet spun yarnsComments made by customers about the commercial and technical potential of the AirJet technology.…

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Thank you very much

for your attention!

Break till 11:20