44092593 revolver instruction

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    5

    Remember also that you cannot learn to shoot with "dry practice" which means using a snapping pad on

    the hammer or empty cartridge cases in the chamber, and carrying out all the motions of shooting.

    This practice is very good to train the muscles of the arm and wrist, strengthen the trigger finger, and practise

    the hold; but that is all. I strongly advise ten minutes of this practice every day, aiming at a mirror.

    I am definitely against aiming at the eye of another person, even after both have inspected the weapon. It is a

    practice that should be avoided like poison with any weapon.

    In aiming, the concentration should be on the point of aim; the revolver or pistol is brought up until the sights

    are in line with that mark. The eye then takes in the backsight, then the foresight, and sees to it that the hand adjusts

    the weapon until the foresight is central in the opening of the backsight, the top of the foresight is brought level with

    the shoulders of the square or U-shaped opening, the top of the foresight being in line with the centre lower part of

    the aiming mark when shooting at a target. On active service the aiming mark is the centre of the body.

    Here are sketches with' the explanation of aiming with every type the reader is likely to come across :

    Sights

    Generally speaking, there are, as far as aiming is concerned, four types of backsight and three types of

    foresight. These resolve themselves into four types of sights, as shown in the accompanying sketches.

    (a) Square or Rectangular Backsight and Blade Foresight.

    This type is now the most widely used' by the foremost revolver and pistol shots; it is the type used on the new

    Enfield .380 cal. revolver.

    The advantage of this type is that it is easy to see when the top of the foresight is level with the shoulders of

    backsight. Centring of foresight is simplified, and it is equally good in slow or rapid firing.

    NOTE It is a mistake to use a thin blade and narrow rectangle; use one that can be easily and quickly seen,

    1/10 in. wide foresight with square in backsight which gives a clear line of light either side of foresight at 20 yards,

    is recommended.

    (b) U Backsight and Blade Foresight.

    This sighting system will be found on a considerable number of revolvers and automatic pistols. The square or

    rectangular backsight is an evolution of it.

    The system is good, but its disadvantage is that the lower or rounded corners of the U naturally cause a slight

    blur; if the U is opened to correct this, some difficulty is found in centring the foresight, causing shots to go Right or

    Left.

    Makers often leave a U in backsight because they realise that a U can be converted into a square, but a square

    cannot be altered into a U without altering the elevation of backsight.

    (c) V Backsight and Bead Foresight.

    This system is now very little in use at the present time, and while it may have been good when used in very

    deliberate shooting, it is certainly not good for rapid shooting, and is not recommended. Aim is taken by getting the

    Bead in the bottom of the V, the top of Bead being in line with point aimed at.

    (d) Mk. VI Service with Wide V and Small U, with Blade Foresight.

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    8

    Remember that if the stance is correct, and the revolver is properly "held," no weight of the weapon should be

    taken by the trigger finger. The hammer should be at full cock, with the revolver resting against the front of the table

    or bench, or at 45 degrees muzzle down.

    The forefinger should be lying along the outside of the trigger guard.

    Bring the revolver up to the aim position without moving the hold. As the revolver leaves the bench or table,

    the finger is slipped around the lower part of the trigger so that the inner lower part Of the finger is taking squarelyon the trigger.

    Do not tighten the hold, but start a very gentle pressure on the trigger and keep an even pressure of the thumb

    on the body.

    By this time the sights should be aligned on the point of aim, and this pressure that you have taken should

    assist in steadying them, so that very little extra pressure on the trigger is required to get the shot away.

    What OT To Do

    Two very important items come in here, where I am certainly not in agreement with much that has been

    taught and written.

    First, do not take any notice of that old, old story about "you should not know when it goes off." The revolver

    or pistol (or rifle, for that matter) should be fired by YOU, when you know your sights are on the point of aim.

    Shooting calls for concentration and determination, not indecision. Just imagine trying to fire six shots in ten

    seconds, and not knowing when they go off!

    Second, just give that other favourite instruction about "pressing the finger towards the thumb" a good look

    over; try it with an empty revolver, and see if it really is sound practice. You will find that in this way you use from

    the centre to the top half of the trigger.

    Now try the method of pressing the trigger straight back towards the centre of the wrist. You will find that bythis means you are pressing the bottom of the trigger and maximum leverage is obtained. I can definitely state that I

    have improved the shooting of a great number of men by persuading them to adopt this method.

    After the hammer has fallen and the shot is fired, do not snatch the weapon down quickly, but let it "follow

    through," as it were, and then bring it down to the table .and re-cock the hammer ready for the next shot.

    Remember that the trigger must be allowed to come right forward after it has been pressed, in order to allow

    the pawl to be lowered and do its work later in revolving the cylinder.

    Unless a fair amount of practice with an empty revolver has been undertaken, the reader may find it advisable

    to re-cock with the disengaged hand at first until he is more confident of his "hold." When first starting to learn or

    practise it is sheer folly to start shooting at once and to re-cock with the revolver hand. The only thing you may be

    certain of is a different hold for each shot, and the finger getting farther and farther around the trigger.

    When more certain of the hold, try re-cocking with the thumb of the revolver hand, but perform this

    movement without altering your hold, and always re-cock the hammer at full speed.

    Do not get into the habit of casually re-cocking while you are looking at the target; watch everything you do

    at first, do it quickly and properly; later, when you have mastered the job, you can concentrate your attention

    entirely on the point of aim while your hand automatically and with precision carries out each movement. This,

    however, means practice, practice, and again practice.

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