48835 snh outer hebrides 9/5/06 13:48 page 1 andscape … · is all that protects a huge area of...
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The patchwork of crops and fallow support a spectacular
array of wild flowers in summer. The historic churchyard,
together with the gardens of the thatched cottages
(which include a Gatliffe Trust Hostel) are a haven for
corncrakes. The impressive shingle beach at Stoneybridge
is all that protects a huge area of croftland from storm
damage and flooding.
LOCH EYNORT
The trees and shrubs that thrive at the end
of the North Loch Eynort road have been
planted over recent decades by the local
crofter. They are ideal for songbirds and
migrants (even the odd long-eared owl).
Towards the mouth of the loch are two
other small, but important, woods. Meall
Mor is dominated by birch but has recently
been fenced off from deer and planted
with a wider range of native broadleaved
trees. Allt Volagir on the other hand, long
protected from grazing within a small
ravine (and nowfenced), is one of the best
surviving patches of native scrub in the
Outer Hebrides. Woodland flowers include
angelica, wild hyacinth, wood sorrel, wood sage and garlic.
Trees and shrubs are typical of the Outer Hebrides - birch,
rowan, aspen, willows, hazel, honeysuckle and ivy,
together with one of only two ash trees in the Uists.
The sea loch itself is a good place to spot otters and
common seals, divers, eider and black guillemot, with
occasional eagles and other birds of prey flying overhead.
RUBHA ARDVULE
This is one of the few rocky headlands of any size
on the entire west coast of South Uist and is a
good sea-watching point. Shearwaters, petrels and
skuas are seen in May and in autumn. Eiders and Arctic
terns nest while the surrounding machair is good for
waders and corn buntings. Loch Ardvule has mute swans
and a variety of ducks. This area is also part of the MoD
Range so be vigilant of any warning flags.
SOUTH COAST OF SOUTH UIST
From here there are excellent views of Barra and Eriskay. A
small pod of bottlenosed dolphins appear to be resident
offshore and might be seen from the Barra car ferry. The
ill-fated cargo vessel ‘SS Politician’ foundered in the Sound
of Eriskay in 1941, inspiring the book ‘Whisky Galore’ (by
Compton Mackenzie who lived in Barra at the time). Near
the Pollachar Inn and its ancient standing stone outside, is
a large shingle beach, always vulnerable to erosion.
ERISKAY
This attractive little island, with its new causeway, has
a unique free-range herd of small Highland ponies,
now considered a rare breed. It was on Eriskay too
that Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish
soil. Local tradition maintains that
seeds fell from his pocket and the
attractive, pink-flowered sea
bindweed has grown here ever
since. Local schoolchildren have
marked the spot with a cairn. This
small machair is good for orchids,
bumblebees, and butterflies such
as the grayling and dark-green
fritillary. There is a self-guided walk
around the islands, with
accompanying leaflet.
BarraTRAIGH MHOR AND EOLIGARRY, BARRA
The large cockle strand of Traigh Mhor
serves as Barra’s airport, with daily flights
to Benbecula and Glasgow. The cockles
here are particularly large, and harvested
by hand by local people. The dunes and
machair are mobile, with spectacular erosion
features, and stabilised by sandblow fencing
and marram planting. It is said that the
narrow isthmus behind the airport
has been breached by several storms
in the past. Eoligarry machair is
excellent for flowers and insects
such as rare bumblebees. It also
has a famous, and perhaps
unrivalled, display of primroses
in early spring and an impressive
density of breeding corncrakes (30-40
calling males, nearly a third of all those found
in Barra and Vatersay combined).
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terns, also breed on the islands which also supports one of
our largest aggregations of black guillemots. Over 8000 grey
seal pups are born here every autumn. The islands are
managed as a National Nature Reserve through SNH, and
are owned by North Uist Estates. Boat trips may be available
from North Uist and there is a free colour leaflet available
from SNH.
BENBECULA
The name Beinn na Faoghla (Hill of the Fords)
refers to the time when it was necessary to cross
between the Uists on foot or pony at low tide, or
by boat at high tide. With the coming of the
Rocket Range, after the Second World War, South
Uist was linked to Benbecula by a bridge, but this
was replaced in the early 1980s by a causeway.
Single-track causeways were completed in 1960
linking Benbecula to Grimsay and North Uist. The
fords around Grimsay are good places to spot
otters and shorebirds and, in winter it is always
worth scanning the gulls at Gramsdale for
glaucous or Iceland gulls. Balivanich has good
numbers of calling corncrakes while central
Benbecula supports nesting hen harriers, short-
eared owls and other birds of prey. It was from Nunton
House in 1746 that Bonnie Prince Charlie was taken ‘over
the sea to Skye’ by Flora Macdonald.
ST KILDA
Lying 64 km (45 miles) west of the Hebrides, the St Kilda
archipelago is a National Nature Reserve and World
Heritage Site, with inscriptions for both natural and cultural
heritage. The islands are owned by the National Trust for
Scotland (who maintain a useful website) and there is a
ranger present in the summer months. SNH have produced
a colour leaflet and a booklet about the NNR. Day trips may
be available from Harris in summer, weather permitting.
ARDIVACHAR AND LOCH BEE
Twenty miles of Atlantic beach stretch from the Ardivachar
headland to the southern tip of South Uist, broken only by
one or two small rocky headlands. These are good places to
look for American waders in autumn, blown off course by
westerly gales, while exceptional densities of other waders
breed on the machair in summer. The first few miles (as far
south as Gerinish) are owned by the MoD as part of their
rocket range. Visitors should look out for the red flags,
warning that the range is active. Mostly however walkers
can continue unimpeded and croftwork proceeds as
normal. Loch Bee is a huge brackish loch of mixed salt and
fresh waters, connected by floodgates to both the Atlantic
and to the Minch, in the east. It is fairly shallow and
contains a range of species typical of brackish waters, with
many breeding wildfowl. Its 500 resident mute swans, form
one of the largest aggregations in Scotland, and are
augmented in spring and autumn by flocks of whoopers,
some of which overwinter.
LOCH DRUIDIBEG
The area around Loch Druidibeg has been a National Nature
Reserve since 1958, maintained by Scottish Natural
Heritage, in conjunction with local crofters and the estate.
The loch itself is large but shallow, with many islands, some
of which still have a cover of native scrub, one of the
reasons for the reserve coming into being. There is a small
heronry. Druidibeg was once one of the few places in the
Uists where the Scottish greylag geese still bred. Birds of
prey hunting over the reserve include golden eagle, hen
harrier, kestrel, peregrine, merlin and short-eared owl, even
the occasional white-tailed eagle. A small plantation along
the Skipport road attracts woodland birds and migrants and
is one of the features described in the leaflet that
accompanies the self-guided walk through the reserve. SNH
also produce a free colour leaflet describing the whole
reserve.
HOWMORE ESTUARY
The Howmore river, with its short estuary, links lochs that
form the premier salmon/sea trout system in the Uists. All
machair lochs also have good brown trout fishing. The
machairs are rich in breeding waders, while long-tailed
duck gather offshore in winter. The area around Verran
Island seems to have a particular attraction for rare gulls.
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The Outer Hebrides
PLACESTOVISITFOR
WILDLIFEANDLANDSCAPE
The Outer Hebrides
The Uists & BarraP L A C E S T O V I S I T F O R W I L D L I F E
A N D L A N D S C A P E
P L A C E S T O V I S I T F O R W I L D L I F E A N D L A N D S C A P E
The Outer Hebrides offer a unique blend of
landscapes, habitats and wildlife and this
leaflet highlights nearly 50 of the bestplaces to
visit. However, anywhere on these islands
offers something of interest, uncomfortable
perhaps in bad weather - but nonetheless
dramatic - and always exceedingly beautiful in
fine weather; few other places in Britain can
match the sunsets.
Visitors are always made welcome and the
unique outdoor experience can be enjoyed at
any time of the year. Since the land is
managed in many ways that sustain jobs, and
wildlife, walkers should ensure that access is
taken in responsible manner. Park sensibly,
keep dogs under control (especially during
lambing in April and May) and be aware of
deer stalking activities on some hills from July
to mid-February. Nesting seabirds such as
terns, and breeding seals (October for grey
seals) are of course sensitive to human
disturbance while a special licence is
necessary to approach some bird breeding
sites, such as those of divers and birds of prey.
Many of the paths are rights of way, but not all
are suitable for all abilities. The machair tracks
are particularly good places to walk, but avoid
growing crops. The clifftops and blanket bog
need special care, but access on the hills, the
open machair and the beaches is otherwise
unrestricted. Local people, visitor centres and
tourist offices are invariably helpful and
informative. Leaflets are available for some
marked paths.
The Scottish Outdoor Access Code is available
from SNH and other outlets, or can be seen on
the Scottish Natural Heritage website:
www.shn.org.uk or on the local site
www.cne-siar.gov.uk/access while more
information on local wildlife can be found at
www.cne-siar.gov.uk/biodiversity
The UistsBERNERAY
Berneray is now linked to North Uist by a causeway. A small
heritage centre on the island explains its history,
summarised in a handy little booklet available locally. A
leaflet is also available for a self-guided walk around the
island. The machair, with no rabbits, must be one of the
finest in the Hebrides - if not the world! Rotational, low
intensity cultivation maintains a breathtaking spectacle of
wild flowers in the summer. In winter the area holds a flock
of barnacle geese from Greenland, while the resident
greylags are becoming more numerous in the Uists and are
impacting upon crofting. Boreray, nearby, is common
grazing for the Berneray crofters, and has a single occupied
house.
LOCHMADDY AND LOCH AN DUIN
Seen from the air these sea lochs are an intricate pattern
of inlets, lochs and channels linked by tidal rapids, with
countless islands and skerries. A video showing some of the
underwater attraction is available from SNH. The shores are
good for otters, common seals, eiders, divers and other
wildlife. The North Uist Historical Society maintain an
excellent museum in the award-winning arts centre Taigh
Chearsabhagh in Lochmaddy village. A leaflet describes a
self-guided walk around the area. The mouth of Loch nam
Madadh itself is guarded by two brooding sea stacks which
give the loch its name, and in
the vicinity of which
porpoises, minke whales and
even killer whales have been
seen. The Outdoor Centre
may be chartered for boat
trips. The open moorland
west of Loch nam Madadh has
some of the best blanket bog
in the Uists with a range of
bird species (such as divers
and birds of prey), while red
deer are often seen
near the road. A small
woodland plantation
is also of interest.
BALRANALD
This corner of North
Uist is managed as a
nature reserve by the
RSPB, in conjunction
with local crofters.
Guided walks by the
warden are available
from the visitor
centre in summer. There is a gradual change from saltmarsh
in the south (adjacent to Loch Paible) through a variety of
marshland habitats. Wetlands around Loch nam Feithean
provide excellent habitat for breeding birds. This supports
a rich assemblage of machair waders - lapwing, redshank,
snipe, ringed plover, oystercatcher and dunlin while birds
of prey are commonly seen. The crofters are participating
in schemes to encourage the corn buntings and corncrakes
and this must be one of the best places to see them. Ard an
Runair is a fine sea-watching point, with a regular passage
of pomarine and long-tailed skuas in mid-May. St Kilda (see
no. 35) is visible in fine weather, beyond Haskeir rocks.
BALESHARE
Baleshare and Kirkibost are machair islands, the former
connected to the rest of North Uist by a causeway, the latter
uninhabited and only accessible by boat. Arctic terns breed
but the shore can change considerably after every winter
storm. The usual waders are abundant on the saltmarshes,
hummocky dunes, on the wet machair or by loch margins,
while the machair lochs support breeding mute swans,
mallard and moorhen. The mosaic of habitats are also
important for plants and insects.
THE MONACH ISLES
The impressive brick lighthouse was built in 1864 ,
decommissioned in 1942, then reinstated by a small
automatic light erected
alongside in 1997. Although
uninhabited since 1949, the
islands are still grazed by
sheep while fishermen still
occupy the old schoolhouse
in the summer months. The
extensive and uncultivated
machair hosts nearly 200
species of plants and is an
important wintering area
for several hundred
barnacle geese. Seabirds
such as shags, cormorants,
fulmars, eider and Arctic
BARRA
A circular tour of Barra
(less than 20 miles)
includes the machairs and lochs of the west coast,
croftland, through the moorlands and uplands of the
interior to the sheltered inlets of the east coast. There are
even a few interesting planted woodlands and scrub, where
ornithologists now turn up some rare and interesting
migrant birds. The flowers of Barra are impressive and
there is a useful little booklet produced locally, on the
island’s orchids. The rare Irish Lady’s Tresses is a speciality.
There are some interesting walks, some led by a part-time
ranger, and a small boat will take visitors out to Kisimul’s
Castle. If one cannot visit any of the other islands to the
south, a hike up to the statue of ‘Our Lady of the Isles’
above Castlebay will be rewarded with one of the most
spectacular views in the whole of the Hebrides.
VATERSAY
This beautiful, H-shaped island, immediately south of Barra,
is now connected by a causeway. The strip of land between
the two main sections of Vatersay is machair, with lovely
white strands on either side. The east one is a popular
bathing beach in summer. The west one however can be
stripped down to shingle after storms and is highly
vulnerable to erosion. There is a monument here to the
‘Annie Jane’, an emigrant ship which foundered offshore in
September 1853 with the loss of some 300 lives.
There is a leaflet available for a self-guided walk
around the island. The Prince’s flower, sea
bindweed, also grows in Vatersay - although
Charles never set foot here! The island is rich in
orchids and other plants, with good numbers of
corncrakes and corn buntings.
SANDRAY, MINGULAY, PABAY AND BERNERAY
The southernmost islands of the Hebridean chain have
sheer gneiss cliffs, with spectacular sea stacks, caves and
arches ideal for breeding seabirds. The people of Mingulay
used to harvest these, much in the manner of the St Kildans.
The island was finally evacuated, mostly to
Vatersay, in 1908 and the empty village,
clustered around the only beach on Mingulay,
is slowly being overwhelmed by sand.
Berneray, or Barra Head is the southernmost
point of the Outer Hebrides. Berneray has
the largest concentration of breeding
razorbills in the UK. Mingulay and Berneray,
like St Kilda, have their own distinctive race
of field mouse while grey seals breed on
Mingulay’s shore. All but Sandray are now
owned by the National Trust for Scotland and boat trips
may be available from Castlebay. Puffins frequent the rock
that serves as a landing place on Mingulay. There is a lovely
machair on Pabbay and an ancient burial mound with
incised stones, while Sandray, just to the north, is the
common grazing for the Vatersay crofters. Flocks of
barnacle geese overwinter on these islands.
Scottish Natural Heritage32 Francis Street, Stornoway, Isle of Lewis, HS1 2ND
T: 01851 705258www.snh.org.uk
Text by John Love, Design by Iain Sarjeant (T:01349 86254), Maps by Wendy Price, Printed by Woods of Perth,
Photography by Lorne Gill/SNH, Laurie Campbell, Keith Ringland, John Love, Andy Robinson, Iain Sarjeant, P&A MacDonald & Sydney Clarke
Front cover: Traigh Geiraha, Isle of Lewis; machair; corncrake & bottle-nosed dolphinsBack cover: Corn marigold
ISBN 1 85397 480 3 W5k0306
Scottish Natural Heritage is a government body responsible to the Scottish Executive and Scottish Parliament.
Our mission statement:Working with Scotland’s people to care for our natural heritage.
Our aim:Scotland’s natural heritage is a local, national and global asset.We promote its care and improvement, its responsible enjoyment,its greater understanding and appreciation and its sustainable use
now and for future generations.
The
Outer Hebrides
Razorbill
Lochmaddy
Dunlin
BlackGuillemot
Loch Bee
Ramsons
Great yellow bumblebee
Vatersay
Sea bindweed
Irish lady’s tresses
Corn bunting
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