82988249 the colette sewing handbook inspired style and classic techniques for the new seamstress

7/29/2019 82988249 the Colette Sewing Handbook Inspired Style and Classic Techniques for the New Seamstress

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inspired styles andclassic techniques

for thenew seamstress

Sri Mitnick

sewing handbooksewing handbook


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Table of Contents

the new seamstress6

the sewing experience8

the five fundamentals9

Chapter 1: Getting Started -page10-Tools and Supplies12 | More Tools and Supplies14

Basic Stitches15 | Sewing Lessons18

Chapter 2: a thoughtful plan -page 28-

Inspiration30 | Editing for Your Style32Strategy36 | A Personalized Croquis37

Chapter 3: a precise pattern -page 38-Pattern Language40 | Prepare Your Fabric42

Lay Out Your Pattern44 | Transfer the Markings48Cut Your Fabric50

project: meringue skirt52

Chapter 4: a fantastic fit -page 60 -What is a Good Fit?62 | Ease64 | Darts and Fullness65

How to Fit68 | Step 1: Measure70 | Step 2: Trace72Step 3: Make a Muslin73 | Step 4: Adjust the Muslin74

Step 5: Alter the Pattern77 | Types of Alterations78project: pastille dress90


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Chapter 5: a beautiful fabric -page 102-Choosing Fabric104 | Fabric Basics108

Warp, Weft and Grain110 | Common Fabrics112 | Interfacing115Tread 116 | Needles117

Prints and Pattern118 | ricky Fabrics120project: truffle dress122

Chapter 6: a fine finish -page 134-Seam Finishes136 | Lining143

project: taffy blouse146

Chapter 7: Keep Learning -page 154-Recommended Reading156project: licorice dress158

glossary170

index172

size chart173


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10


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Classic, simple, understatedSparkling, glamorous, feminine

Bright, bold, graphicOrganic, natural, earthy


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2.Draw a match line on the first piece.

Leave the frst piece in place along the old. Using

a rotary ruler and marker, trace rom the match point alo

the line in the abric to the bottom o the pattern piece.

Here, Im tracing along the black line.

3.Repeat for the second piece.Draw a straight line rom the match point to the

bottom o the second pattern piece. The line should be

parallel to the grainline marked on the pattern piece. For

vertical seam (like a side seam), the line would be 90 to t

grainline.

You can see here that i the second pattern piece were cu

on the old, the plaid pattern would not match.

4.Re-position the second pattern piece.

Leaving the frst pattern piece on the old,

reposition the second piece so that its match line alls

along a matching stripe.

At this point, you would cut out the frst piece. You would

then reold the abric so that your second pattern pieceis positioned on the old, with the match line on your

selected stripe, and cut.

Because the pattern is even, it will match at both shoulde

seams when the pieces are unolded and sewn together.


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52


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meringue skirtmeringue skirteringue skirtmeringue skirteringue skirtmeringue skirtProjec

Even with its pretty scalloped hem, this skirt has a simple and straightforward construction,

making it a great choice for practicing working with a pattern. It has a simple darted fit

and sits just slightly below the natural waist. You can use it to experiment with new markingtechniques you may not have tried before, such as tailors tacks, or try out the freezer paper tip

for cutting your pattern pieces. Practice taking your time and cutting carefully around the curves.

Well also create a small paper template to help you mark the scalloped stitching line at the hem.

Once youve finished that lovely hem, youll most certainly see how careful and accurate marking

can make sewing less frustrating.

Well also cover my preferred technique for attaching a facing to a zipper. For this skirt, well

be using an invisible zipper, which is perhaps the easiest zipper to install. For help with putting

the zipper in, review the page 23.

Start by using the steps we covered in this chapter to cut out your pattern and transfer themarkings, then move into the instructions to put your skirt together.

(Te blouse in this photo is the Sencha pattern, published by Colette Patterns.)

Tools

sewing shears (or rotary utter and mat)

pattern weights

pins

hand sewing needle

marking pen or halkFrenh urve ruler

paper (for template)

paper sissors (for template)

invisible zipper presser foot

bamboo point turner/presser (optional)

pinking shears (optional)

Supplies

fabri (see Fabri uggestions andFabri Required table)

lightweight fusible interfaing (seeFabri Required table)

thread

9" (22.9m) invisible zipper

one small hook and eye losure

piee of paper for making a template

skills Checklist

* Preparing your fabri (pp. -)

* Laying out your pattern (pp. -)

* Transferring the markings (pp. -)

* Cutting out your pattern (pp. -)

* Sewing darts (pp. -)* Pressing a seam (p. )

* Sewing an invisible zipper (p)

* Attahing a faing to a zipper (p. )

* Sewing a athstith by hand (p. )


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60


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Trace Onto Sturdier Paper

Make your own personal pattern by tracing the pieces onto

sturdier paper. Label the pieces with the pattern name,

pattern piece indicator (such as letter) and size. Dating the

pieces can be helpful, too.

Step 2: Trace

Most sewing patterns come printed on very thin tissue

paper, which does not always hold up well over time.

Because you are planning to make changes to the pattern

in order to fit it to your body, you risk damaging thepattern even more as you cut and tape pieces together.

I recommend tracing your pattern pieces onto heavier

paper, both to preserve the pattern and to make changes

much easier as you go through your fitting. You can even

make your own notes on the pattern for future sewing.

You can buy rolls of bond paper to keep on hand, which

are available at many art supply or drafting supply stores.

Or you can look for inexpensive rolls of wrapping paper,

which are wide enough to handle the great majorityof sewing patterns. Freezer paper is a great choice as well.

As mentioned in chapter three, it has a light coating

on one side that causes it to adhere to fabric when

ironed, making accurate cutting very easy later on.

Cut out your tissue paper pattern pieces, and make sure

they are wrinkle-free. If they seem a bit crumpled, give

them a light press with a dry iron. Lay the pieces on your

sturdier paper, and trace around all of the cutting lines.

Transfer all of the markings for your chosen size onto

your new pattern.

72


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90


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102


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Texture

Texture on fabric can be bold

or subtle, from a crinkle to a thick

nubby weave to a subtle brushed

softness. Smooth, less textured

fabrics are easy to incorporate

in your sewing, putting the focus

more on the color or print.

Textured:

Crinkled Silk Chifon

Smooth:

Silk Crepe de Chine

Stretch

Stretch can come from knit fabrics,

or fabrics that incorporate elastic.

Knits require special techniques for

sewing. Nonstretch fabrics are the

most common and are suitable for

the majority of projects.

Nonstretchy:

Light Rayon Twill

Stretchy:

Silk Jersey


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Rayon

Rayon is produced rom cellulose,

and while it is neither entirely natur

nor entirely synthetic, it does behav

very much like a natural fber. It ote

appears as a lustrous abric similar

to silk. It is wonderul or keeping co

in hot weather.

Cotton

Cotton is a versatile fber made rom

the cotton plant, and has become t

dominant fber used in clothing todCotton abrics are comortable and

sot, and come in a variety o qualiti

and prices.

Linen

Linen fbers come rom the ax plan

and are extremely strong, durable a

sot. Lining is cool and breathable, b

linen abrics do tend to wrinkle easi


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Flannel

A brushed abric with a sot texture.

Cotton fannel is used in lighter

garments like shirts, and wool fannelin heavier garments like suits and

jackets, though wool fannel can also

be used or heavy shirts.

Fibers used: cotton or wool.

Gabardine

A wonderul abric, usually wool, with

a tight twill weave. Wool gabardine

is a great choice or tailored garments,as its quite resistant to wrinkling.

Fibers used: wool, silk, rayon.

Tweed

A sturdy wool abric, with a great deal

o texture and multiple colors woven

through or a fecked or mottledappearance.

Fibers used: wool.

Dupioni

Dupioni is a sti abric woven rom

irregular threads, creating slubs in the

abric. It is crisp and luminous, but

rays easily.

Fibers used: silk.

Tafeta

A very crisp abric, most oten seen

in party or wedding dresses.

Fibers used: silk, rayon, polyester or

nylon.

Worsted Wool

A sturdy wool suiting abric, which also

makes great skirts.

Fibers used: wool.

114


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Geometric Paisley

Abstract Novelty print/Conversation print

Animal print Toile


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146


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about the author

Sarai Mitnick is the founder and designer behind

Colette Patterns, a line of classic sewing patterns

known for sweet details and excellent instruction.

With a background in User Experience, Sarai

wanted to create patterns that were a joy to use

and learn from. Along with a small team of tal-ented stitchers and bloggers, she now runs Colette

Patterns from a lovely sunlit studio in Portland,

Oregon. When shes not sewing (or writing about

sewing), Sarai enjoys petting her cats (Basil and

Colette), growing vegetables, drinking cocktails,

traveling, knitting, making good food, reading

and exploring the beautiful city she calls home.

Visit her at www.colettepatterns.com, or at her

personal blog, www.sweetsassafras.org.

Te Colette Sewing HandbookCopyright 2011

by Sarai Mitnick. Manufactured in China. Allrights reserved. Te patterns and drawings in thisbook are for the personal use of the reader. Bypermission of the author and publisher, they maybe either hand-traced or photocopied to make

single copies, but under no circumstances may theybe resold or republished. No part of this book may

be reproduced in any form or by any electronicor mechanical means including information storageand retrieval systems without permission in writing

from the publisher, except by a reviewer who mayquote brief passages in a review. Published byKrause Publications, a division of F+W Media, Inc.,4700 East Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45236.(800) 289-0963. First Edition.

www.fwmedia.com

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DISRIBUED IN CANADA BY FRASERDIREC100 Armstrong AvenueGeorgetown, ON, Canada L7G 5S4

el: (905) 877-4411

DISRIBUED IN HE U.K. AND EUROPEBY F&W MEDIA INERNAIONALBrunel House, Newton Abbot, Devon, Q12 4PU,

Englandel: (+44) 1626 323200, Fax: (+44) 1626 323319Email: [email protected]

DISRIBUED IN AUSRALIA BY

CAPRICORN LINKP.O. Box 704, S. Windsor NSW, 2756 Australia

el: (02) 4577-3555

SRN: Y1290

ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-1545-2

Edited by Vanessa Lyman

Designed by Michelle Tompson

of Fold & Gather Design

Production coordinated by Greg Nock

Photography by Lisa Warninger

Photostyling by Chelsea Fuss

Step-by-step photography by Christine Polomsky


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Thoughtful Plan

gure out what youike and how youl wear it the mostessential steps

sewing a garmentyou will love.

A Precise Pattern

Learn to masterthe language of

patterns to help youtell your own story.

A Fantastic Fit

A custom fit is withinyour reach as youlearn how to alterpatterns to flatter

your body.

A Beautiful Fabric

Learn how todetermine which

fabrics work best, andhow to work with

those fabrics.

A Fin

Learn all techniqu

for that p

about the authorSarai Mitnick is the talented seam-stress behind the successful ColettePatterns. Visit ColettePatterns.comfor sewing tips, a fun blog, vintagecouture inspiration and a fantasticforum, as well as news about the

latest sewing patterns available fromColette Patterns!

The Five Fundamentalsfor a Great Sewing Experi

Renowned for her easy-to-use and classic-looking patterns, Sarai Mitnick of Colette Patterns provides y

five gorgeous patterns, and all the sewing knowledge you need to become a modern seamstress.

T he enclosed garment patternsall graded in sizes0 through 18bring the five fundamentals intoplay. You can truly master the art of pairing fabrics with

design by sewing the Truffl e Dress, or you can delight in the

effect of a fine finish with the Taffy Blouse. Choose from

any or all of the five projectsthree dresses, one skirt and

one blousein order to develop your skills, sew a lovely

wardrobe, and enjoy the results!

Includes five complete sewing patterns from Colette Patternsa $90 value!

Learn to sew beautifully by practicing the Five Fundamentals:

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04LUEMMDc0OTYyMDEzMDE59A==

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Y1290

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ISBN-10: 1-4402-1545-6

ISBN-13: 978-1-4402-1545-2

US $29.99(CAN $31.50)

82988249 the colette sewing handbook inspired style and classic techniques for the new seamstress

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