൧ industry. - SPESA · Athleisure is another… but as we look at the transformation of denim over the past few years, you see new fabrics bein對g produced that require robust
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Thread Industry Innovations Improvements through Technology
“We are the music makers and we are the dreamers of dreams.”
- Arthur O’Shaughnessy1873
WHY INNOVATE?
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So why do we innovate? As consumer needs of garments and products change, so must we as members of the textile industry. We must innovate. We can’t just react. We need to evolve. We need to push our industry forward… new products, new technology… new innovation.
Why Innovate?
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STATUS QUO INNOVATION
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New technology and improvements on existing technology are the vehicles being used to usher in a new age in thread technology innovation. To be a leader within the thread industry, you can not operate status quo. You must innovate to meet the current and future demands on a constantly changing textile industry.
The first thing we’ll talk about are the advances in high tech manufacturing processes.
Quality Assurance Technology
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• Purchase of premium raw materials through reliable suppliers.
• Detectors recognize and eliminate any thread anomalies
• Technology provides the sewing facility with a knot-free thread that will create less re-stitched seams, improving overall efficiency
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The thread industry as others in the textile industry are under stringent quality standards. Quality control is of upmost importance to most in our industry. It all starts with quality raw materials. Technology continues to be very important in thread quality with detection of knots… thick or thin spots… and other inconsistencies that can lower overall performance and product satisfaction. By monitoring the thread from the bale to the final product, any defects can be removed and an airsplice is put in their place. Detectors recognize and eliminate any thread defects with corrective airsplicing. The airsplice is only slightly wider than the thread and will sew through any needle. Quality assurance technology vastly reduces anomalies, allowing for better quality products.
Science of Color
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Sewing performance is one aspect of thread quality. Another is color. Color can be extremely subjective. Color can appear differently from individual to individual based upon genetics, viewing color in one light source or another, how tired someone’s eyes are, or even an individual’s mood.
Digital Color Identification
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• Color captured using a Spectrophotometer and that digital measurement can be sent to the thread producer via QTX files.
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Color technology breaks down the tangibles… what we can control… making color, science, with digital color matching. It’s not just the technology that pinpoints specific colors that make the industry move, but the speed to which accurate colors can be provided from a manufacturing side.
Digital Color Identification
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• Analysis of these QTX files tell you everything you need to know about what makes up a particular color, allowing thread makers to replicate it.
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Color technology breaks down the tangibles… what we can control… making color, science, with digital color matching. It’s not just the technology that pinpoints specific colors that make the industry move, but the speed to which accurate colors can be provided from a manufacturing side.
Global Dye-ability
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• Global dyestuffs and consistent dye formulas usage ensures color creation and consistency when duplicating in global dyehouses throughout the production chain.
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Identification is just one area in which technology is pushing the industry forward. Being able to make products in specific colors quickly, consistently, and duplicated all over the world is another. By using global dyestuffs and using consistent dye formulas a color can be created in the United States and duplicated in other dyehouses throughout the world. This ensures that a brand or retailer can get their tops made in the Americas and the matching bottoms produced in Asia and the thread will match for both products.
Digital Color Identification
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• Thread color apps and Colorimeters assist in the preliminary thread color selection process leading to increased speed-to-market.
• Some industry apps connect to inventory systems to monitor current stock levels in efforts to further reduce overall garment cost.
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Thread color apps and colorimeters assist in the preliminary thread color selection process by providing the supply chain ways to select and quickly narrow down digital thread color choices before receiving physical samples for confirmation. These efforts and others provide tools to increase speed-to-market and reduce overall cost.
Digital Color Identification
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• Designers and color professionals have the ability to instantaneously use chosen “digital” thread colors in virtual sew-ins, before doing physical ones.
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In addition, this new wave of digital technology allows designers and color professionals for flexibility to experiment and play with their chosen thread colors, digitally, changing thread color and fabric backgrounds. These “digital” sew-ins save time by providing instantaneous results, assisting in the narrowing down color choice, before time is taken to order a physical thread sample is ordered for a manual, physical sew-in is made.
Digital Color Identification
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• Seasonal Brand/Retail color palettes often developed before fabric arrives in the factory for production, reducing lead time.
• Supply chain communication/production has vastly improved with the use of PLM systems – allowing for increased flexibility and control throughout the garment/product creation process.
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This technology enables thread producers to match and develop seasonal brand and retailer color palettes far in advance of the fabric hitting the factory floor, saving valuable lead time. Supply chain communication/production/speed has been greatly aided by taking this files and incorporating a PLM system, allowing everyone to see an approximation of thread color, even if a physical color standard is not immediately or readily available.
Integrating thread data into PLM systems
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Thread data can beintegrated into today’s
PLM Systems. This allows for the ProductDevelopment teams toselect the right threadtype, size and color
From drop down boxes.This ensures that thereAre no mistakes typing in the data and that theBOMs will be accurate.
• Thread Type
• Thread Size
• Thread Color
PRODUCT INNOVATION
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As many of you are aware, sewing thread no longer just hold garments and fabrics together. Each year, new innovations in areas like fabric technology… push new sewing thread characteristics and performance into new areas… from smart and stretch garments to safe and sustainable ones. The thread industry is expanding research and development… New technologies as never before, creating unique products for specific brand/retailer challenges.
Product Innovation
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Thread Advancement Areas include:• Reflective
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Just a few of these thread advancements include: Reflective Threads for use in Apparel, Footwear, Accessories, Outdoor, Automotive applications. Threads in which maximum luminescence and durability are required, while maintaining aesthetic appearance. The estimated market size for an emerging Athleisure market (which wasn’t even a word a couple of years ago) has an estimated market size of $44 Billion in the U.S. alone and is still growing. Morgan Stanley has predicted it to grow to $83 Billion by 2020. That’s double in less than 4 years.
Product Innovation
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Thread Advancement Areas include:• Reflective• Fusible
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Fusible Threads for use in Apparel and Non-Apparel applications --- Buttons and hems as examples… applications where the functionality or look of thread is important, but without the possibility of a seam unraveling.
Product Innovation
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Thread Advancement Areas include:• Reflective• Fusible• Soft
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Soft Threads in next-to-skin uses in both apparel and non-apparel applications are being redefined using new technology to allow the delivery of thread with never-before-seen softness. Many of today’s finer fabrics are densely woven and prone to puckering. New threads have been developed that are more resistant to shrinkage and stretching and that allow for the use of a smaller needle to prevent puckering. These threads also have a cleaner appearance.
Thread Advancement Areas include:• Reflective• Fusible• Soft• Stretchable
Product Innovation
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Stretchable Threads for use in seams that need a great amount of stretch, minimizing seam failures. Activewear is an easy area to name… Athleisure is another… but as we look at the transformation of denim over the past few years, you see new fabrics being produced that require robust sewing threads that can handle the rigors of traditional denim, but with the added stretch and elongation needed in traditional athletic apparel threads. Technology is pushing or should I say “stretching” innovative threads further than ever before – even in lockstitch operations.
Product Innovation
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Thread Advancement Areas include:• Reflective• Fusible• Soft• Stretchable• Conductive
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With the interest of smart fabrics, Conductive Threads are beginning to emerge. These threads, primarily made of silver, are able to carry signals picked up by receivers in a host of personal electronic devices. This is one of the things as an industry we will see more and more of a demand for as research and development in smart garments and products evolve. Tech companies and retailers that have never before produced apparel and accessory products are adding themselves to an already crowded apparel marketplace.
Product Innovation
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Thread Advancement Areas include:• Reflective• Fusible• Soft• Stretchable• Conductive• Anti-Pucker
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Many of today’s finer fabrics are densely woven and prone to puckering. New threads have been developed that are more resistant to shrinkage and stretching and that allow for the use of a smaller needle to prevent puckering. These threads also have a cleaner appearance.
There is nothing new about the idea of recycled products in the textile industry. However, there is a tremendously new amount of technology driven by a surge in demand from consumers and the brands/retailers that support them --- Technology advancements from the sustainable way of making of the recycled material that goes into these threads, to vast improvements in the efficiency, versatility, and ease of sustainable product sewability. Today, some of the most innovated recycled core and textured threads in the market are being made and produced with recycled, plastic drinking bottles, creating value out of discarded items.
SUSTAINABILITY ANDSUPPLY CHAIN
ACCOUNTABILITY
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The thread industry (and really the textile industry as a whole) continues to move toward improved sustainability and supply chain accountability. Technological advancements developed by or available to thread manufacturers have allowed for increased significance in this area.
Natural Resource Reductions
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• Environmental sustainability and accountability are expected!
• Improvements in technology have allowed thread suppliers to produce more thread with less resources
• Advancements in technology allow dyehouses to recycle and reuse water efficiently and effectively
• Thread manufacturing operations have the technology to now reduce solid and hazardous waste to zero
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Sustainability and Accountability are no longer a nice to have for thread manufacturers, and really the textile industry as a whole. Reducing water usage, electrical usage and landfill waste is now expected from global thread suppliers. Improvements in technology has allowed thread suppliers to reduce their electrical, water and landfill footprint per kilogram of thread produced, producing more thread with less resources. Renewable energy obtained through wind, solar, and the use of carbon neutral fuels made from renewable biomass is available for use. Advancements in wastewater treatment and recycling technology allow dyehouses to recycle and reuse water efficiently and effectively. Zero-Waste-to-Landfill are important milestones for manufacturers in any industry. Thread manufacturing operations have the technology to now reduce its solid or hazardous waste to zero, providing for a substantially reduced company carbon footprint.
Supply Chain Accountability
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• Committed thread manufacturers incorporate a culture of Transparency, Traceability and Trust
• Traceability – Publishing of sustainability performance through various industry organizations ensure accountability
• Trust – Strict observance of current RSL requirements
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Thread manufacturers are demanding the same ethical sustainability transparency from its product suppliers. With retailers/brands wanting to view the entire supply chain, driven by end-product consumers, Transparency, traceability and trust is of paramount importance... It’s a “must have” for thread manufacturers. Advancements in testing and detection as well as observance of current RSL requirements continues to ensure total accountability throughout the supply chain. Published sustainability performance through various industry organizations like the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index holds thread companies accountable and transparent.
USEFUL TECHNOLOGYINFORMATION TOOLS
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With the advent of widespread smart devices, phones and tablets are used and relied upon, useful technology information from anywhere in the world is now at your fingertips.
• Thread and Needle Size Information Readily Available
• Technical Bulletins• Thread Consumption Tools
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Online thread selection guides are available to give product manufacturers the “Good”, “Better”, and “Best” choices for any particular garment or accessory, providing the best options for your topstitch, overedge and coverstitch operations while still taking into the account the best quality for the lowest cost. Additional charts are accessible to help manufacturers with the verification of thread sizes, relative strength, and suggested needle size for each thread needed for a particular use. Whether you are having issues with needle cutting, puckering, sewing stretch knits, or sewing stretch wovens information is available to help solve those common seam quality problems, often available in multiple languages. One specific tool to highlight is around the area of thread consumption.
In previous years one had to guestimate how much thread would be needed for a particular garment type and size. Thread consumption tools like the innovative one shown above can tell customers not only how much thread a particular product will need, but many calculate approximate unit and overall costs. Often these tools are free to users and accessible online to anyone with an internet connection. Tools like these assist designers and manufacturers providing faster service and quicker speed-to-market.
Summary
• Technology is pushing the industry forward in a variety of impactful ways• Advancements in Manufacturing Processes are leading to improvements
resulting in overhead reduction, quality improvement, quicker speed to market and increased profitability
• Customers receive higher quality products with increased value, leading to “Happy Consumers” increasing the likelihood of multiple purchases
• Innovative Products continue to push the thread industry forward, while meeting current market demands
• Sustainability and Supply Chain Accountability are no longer “nice to haves” – these are expected
• Technology Information Tools are available often free of charge• Your contacts within SPESA can provide you with the information and
contacts you need to maximize the quality, cost and efficiency of your sewn garment operation.
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In summary, this is an exciting time for the thread industry. Technology is assisting in the development and improvement in a number of areas from Manufacturing Process and Thread Color Advancements, to new and interesting Product Innovations, to New Sustainable Ways of Operating, to the abundance of knowledge through available digital Industry Tools. A great place to find thread industry tools are right here within SPESA. SPESA allows you to be more knowledgeable, leveraging the strength and expertise of this association. We appreciate being allowed to present some of the key things we have observed and direction of innovation in the thread industry.
Any Questions?Thank You!
Thread Industry InnovationsImprovements through Technology
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Thank you for allowing me to present to you today. Any questions?
