~HIVERSITY OF MISSOURI COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE

AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

A. J. V.yer, Dlntlor

IRCULAR 57 COLUMBIA, MISSOURI JANUARY, I919

SEWING COURSE III

Making a Simple Wash Dress and Middy Blouse

Addie D. Root

A profitable employment for spare hours

Every girl should endeavor to be wen dressed. This does not demand the purchase of an abundance of clothes of the latest fashion. Large sums of money may be spent on the wardrobe and the re~ult be an absolute failure . In order to be wdl dressed onc must be well groomed, which means first of all, perfect personal cleanliness. The hair should be clean, well brushed, and combed in a style suited to the age o f the girl. If hair ribbons are used they should be clean and pressed, and of a color which will harmonize with the dress. Bilek hair ribbons for general wear are always in good

Archive docum

ent

2 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SER.VIC.

taste. Teeth should be brushed, and nails trimmed and clean. Shot ' and stockings should be of one color. Black and tan shoes, a\lI"IY' in good taste, are the most practical for all around wear, and should always be polished and neatly laced or buttoned to give a good ai' pearance. If white shoes are worn it should be with light c1otlie_ and great care taken to keep them clean. Shoes o f an extreme 51)' and with high heels will detract from the appearance of an otherwi .. well dressed girl, and are very detrimental to good health . All garments should be clean, pressed and mended, and suited to Ihf occasion on 'which they are worn. I t is better to plan a completf simple wardrobe where all garments harmonize than to combine Vl't~

plain with elaborate things. Simplicity is the first essential 10 tiC' gance. Endeavor to have a simple, harmonious wardrobe thai \VII meet all needs. A carefully planned wardrobe and a well grooill person will produce the effeci that is really Ihe desire of every g-i rl'­heart, whi ch is, to be well dressed.

SIMPLE WASH DRESS Design.-Two-piece dress, Russian blouse. Waist and I' I ~I

three- or four-piece skirt. Material.- Kind: Gingham, percale, chambray, kinderga l'!

cloth, or any wash material appropriate for a school dress. AI11II1 IUI Buy the amount of material required for size of pattern in scale I buying material. Thread: No. 70 for stitching ; No. 50 for bllil holes.

Pattern.- Buy a commercial pattern, plain Russian blouse dr sign, of a standard make. These have clearly marked directiollJ f use. To insure buying a pattern of the correct size, the followll measures should be taken:

'WAIST. Bust meas"re.-- Stand behind the figure, keeping' tape line straight across the back. half wav between bone in hack neck and. the waist. Measure around the fullest part of the hus!. I not draw tight but take an easy measure.

Length of back.-Place a tape around waisl to mark the I~.

line. Measure from bone at base of neck to bottom of tape ;111

waist. Length of front.- Measure from holIow of neck to boll qlll

tape at waist. Sleeve lengtf •. -Measure outside length taken from bona

shoulder to wrist bone over bent elbow and inside of armhole hollow to wrist.

SKIRT. Waist.-Take a snug measure with tape line lyil1g f Hip.-From six to nine inches below the waist line in fl'l

MAK ING A SIM PI..£ WASH DRESS AND ) IIDDV BLOUSE 3

:I$ure around the fullest pa rt of hip over hip bone, parallel to 1I,)or.

I. t llflth.- Measure from bottom of t:lpe around waist to the flv,)r in the center fron t, on hip aud in center back.

TESTrNG l'ATTERN .- B u }' waist or dress p.1tlern according to bust IIC:I!;llre, and skirt pattern according to hip me.1.sure.

Be fon! opening, see that the pattern is the correct size. Open patlem. Select the pieces needed, fold others and replace

I the envelope. Note the seam a llowance and how indicated. If p:lttern needs a1ler:llion, note Figures 1 to 14. CUt on dotll':<l

line and ~pread pattern to lengthen, or fold on dotted [inl': to shorten.

:

---_L • • , , I , • , , : b • •

Fig. I.- To :llter froll\ of " a;~t r ;llIcrn : n, l\\'~k; b, 10 enluJ;t or l! ccrc;l ~ e I WI ; " 10 Il1:1ke longrr or shorter

Test fro nt by hold ing it to the neck. h neck too [ow or tOO lugh ? Alter acco rding to Fib'Ure I, o.

Is Jl1ttcrn too narrow or too \\ide across bust ? Alter according to Figure 1, b, on dotted line running from arm holc.

• , , , , , , • , • • , • . ", • •

~-.. ~.- . --

c:

':ig. 2.- To :liter '-'ack of \\:list r :l1tern : a,to m:lke wid er o r n;lrrowtr ; b, to m:lke shortcr orlouger ; c, for round shoulden

Test back in the same manner by holding alter according to Figure 2, o. b, c.

• 1" -­, , , , I

I I ~ _. ,~ .. .... , , , , , , , ' , I , .

. _ . ~l _

1 , Fil:. l-To ;aller I,ngth

or to lake [ullness om or sletH

to neck in b.1ck and

4- UNIVEI$ITY OF l.uSSOUlU AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

T~st sl~ve by holding it up to arm to det~rmin~ if it is th (l right length or l a rg~ ~nough. Alt~r according to Figur~ 3.

r--,--\\ , • ,

, , , ----r-----, , , , ,

I , , , , , , , ,

, , , , , , , , , ,

\ \

----f-----

T~st the l~ngth of skirt by holding tht front to waist. If I~.

than two inch~s II)() long tak~ off the hoi tom; if mor~ than twO inch~s alter accord;". to Figur~s 4 and 7, •

Preparation of Oll'

terial.-Shrink the Ill' terial before using. '1'1 :1 may be done by placin in cold water wilh

Fig. 4.- To alter length and waist measure of unfolding and allowi skirt pattern it to soak for lwd

hours. Use enough water to cover mat~rial completely. Remo from water ;'Ind place on line to dry without unfolding or rillgin out the wat~r . Press wh~n nearly dry.

If a colored material is being used which is likely to fade the color while shrinking by adding one tablespoonful of turpell t) for each gallon of cold water in which the material is soaked.

SKIRT

Placing pattem.- Lay pattern on goods. Care should be \. k not to waste material. Always lay largest part o f pattern tow:lrl\ cut end of material in order to cut to advantage. (See Figu re

. , , • • • 1,-"'------, '.

• , ,

Fig. 5.- The skirt pattern in place on the dress material

Wh~n th~r~ is a right and wrong side the material is folded It' wise so that the two right sid~s come together, or if mOl! I

llAXlNG A SIMPLE WASH DRESS AND MIDDY BLOUSE 5

,rfl l\' open out material and place two cut ends together. provided ,rc is no " up and down" in goods. All goods must be laid with

I"ps of the figures in goods running in the same directi on. P in II piece in place carefully. Instead of cutting a notch in the IR. take a stitch in it. Cuttin g.-Cut with sharp shears close to pattern if seams are

wcd. If seams are not allowed mark allowance with chalk or II. hefore cutting.

Making.- Sew front gores together, first making plait down the rel ltt not more than one and one-half inches wide. The middle of

plait should run exactly down the center front. If both fronts ~ cut on the selvage the front seam will not require fini shi ng on

wrong side. In order to do this the fronts must be cut separately lice the allowance for a plait must be left on the right front only.

Baste side seams nt least one-half inch deep with seams on Ihe right side. Fit ski r t , and make any alterations necessary

~-----::::::- ::::--:::

Fig. 6.-A stitched felled seam

before stitching, unless it is gathered in the back.

F in ish seams, making a stitched fell -seam. (See Figure 6.) All seams should turn to back of skirt.

To make 0 stitched fell-unm.-Have the wrong sides o f the cloth together with edges together. Stitch thret:-eighths of inch from I!tlge so that upper side o f stitching will come on top of the unfinish­ed seam, or toward the front of the skirt. Trim the under side of the scam to one-eighth inch. Make one-eighth inch turning on wide edge. Baste the wide edge flat over the narrow one on the cloth, keeping the underside of the seam smooth . Stitch close to the edge.

Putt jug on bdl.- P lace right side of belt to wrong side of skirt, aCter turning ends o f belt in onc inch, and stitch one-four th inch fro m edge. Tum band to right side of skirt and make one-fourth inch turning. P lace edge over the line of stitching, being sure that ends meet. Baste in place ca refully and stitch around edge of b.'\nd on the right side.

SttlJilig 0" fasteners.- Sew snaps on opening down front and on belt, using the button hole stitch.

Mailing H t m.- To mark line for hem, use a yardstick fo r straightening the skirt around the bottom. P lace the yardstick on

6 UNl\·EMSITY OF .. II55OUkl ACRI CULTUlAL EXTENSION SERVICE

end on Ihe floor, keeping it perpendicula r. Measure up from I floor the distance skilt is desired from floor and mark line (, bollOIll o f hem by plad ni: pins. P lace pins not more: thall 0111: inc " part in order to gel the correct curve o f the skir t around the boUOl1t

Turn ing fhe hcm.·- Take off the skirt carefully so as not I luse pins and tu rn goods to wrong si de on li ne of pins, baslu\ c;lrefully one- fourth inch {rOIll fold. (Sa F igure 7, (I.) Side sc:nu should be ca refully folded bOlck on thcmsel ves so tha t the SC:l1I match.

- -- -

a. b

FiJo:. '.-Sklrt : fI, BlI ~tin f[ rhe Itlrllcd h.,m : b, p u"., for making helll

CUI gauge fo r l11:iking- hem in skirt out of card board actonl Ing to Figure 7, b.

Usinb" the !folllge, mark the hem evenly , holding the gauge r ight nngles to cdb"e o f henl. Cut on pencil marks. Place skil"l 1a[) with hcm 011 table. Make a one-fou.·th inch turning on ell", B:. stc hem dowl1 carefully, takinb" out the fullness by sma ll dart turning to tllc right to make stitchi ng of hem easy. ( F ig. 7, a.)

RUSSIAN BLOUSE WAIST

Placing pattern.- Placc the waist pattern on the goods SII to cut as economica lly ;IS possible. (Su F igurl! 8. )

P lace fronts allowing fo r hem on each side with edge of flO lil

on sclvage. If sclvuge is heavy; trim. Pla~ bilCk wilh center b.1ck on a lengthwise fold. Place slecves lengthwise of the goods, according to perforatir

in [><' tte rn. Place coll :'! r on a double thi ckness lengthwise wi th goods.

~ ,

MAKING A SIMPLE WASH DRESS AND ),uDDY BLOUSE 7

Place cuffs on double thickness, lengthwise of goods. P lace belt on lengthwise fold.

tA • Fda Lentil wne 0

j \oD I r(

\ ~[J Fo ld

~ l /1 . Fig. 8.-Su','''gestcd plan for 'n}' in~ the wnist pattern in place on the dress

material

Cu t carefu lly with sharp shears close to pattern, if seams have been allowed.

Making. BasliJw - Baslc hem s down the front. BasiC shoulder seams the depth indicated on pattern with sea ms

, ,

Fig. 9.- Taking np shonlder scam. front and back, to make waist lit snugly

on right side. Pi n under ann seams. Tryon the wai st.

The line of shoulder seam should be taken up or let out if necessary until the waist fits comfortably and smoothly around neck, chest and back. (See Figure 9.)

Remove pins from under arms seams and prepare to stitch.

S titching shoulder seams.- Stitch shoulder seams, mnking a stitched fell ~seam, turned toward front. Right side of stitching should show on the seam.

Puttilt9 in slecves.- The position of the sleeve in the armhole is indicated by small notches in the top edge of the sleeve and in a rmhole. Match these notches.

8 UNIVEJ.SlTY OF MISSOtntl ACRlCULTUkAL EXTENSION SERVICE:

I£ the under ann seam in the: sleeve is not continuou5 wilh under ann seam in the: waist, finish the under arm seam in the waist first, making a stitched fell seam turning to the front.

If the under ann seam is continuous place sleeve in armhnle before sewing under arm seams, as follows : Pin sleeve into waiSI working back the fullness with the left thumb. There is usually about two inches of fullness. Pin with sleeve side up and seam 011

right side. Baste carefully and stitch on waist side. Make stitched fell·seam with fold turned over sleeve. (Su Figure 10.)

Fig. IO.--S,",".

Finish under ann sleeve-and· waist seam by making a cont;11110118 french seam or stitched fell .

Putting on col/ar.- Sew double thickness of collar with l·iahl sides together around the edge, making one-fourth inch starn AlwI

leaving the neck side open. Trim seam, turn rigbt side oul II

baste around the edge to within an inch of the opening on ea ch .hl, Stitch underneath~ide of collar to neck of dress with one-(nlHlh

inch seam. Turn top side of collar under and stitch over the fir line of sewing. Stitch :uound collar one·eighth inch from edge!.

Putting fo.stttlitlgs Oft front of waist.-Place a button nc.1r 1 top of the le!t front hem and divide the rest of the space evenly II the buttons.

Work buttonholes crosswise of hem to fit the buttons. MailinO b~lt.-Fold the right sides together and stitch all af, ltll

the edge except at one: end, making a one-fourth inch seam. 0 the com~rs and tum right side out. Tum in one-fourth inch I

open end and stitch aTflund entire edge. one-eighth inch from cd

MAKING A S I MPLE WASH DRESS AND MIDDY BLOUSE 9

Placing belt slrops.- Make straps one-half inch wide when fin~

, hCll and as long as belt is wide plus one-fourth inch at each end to 111m in. Turn in ends and stitch around edge. Baste to dress at "'lI ist line on under arm seams. Stitch across ends twice. Place _II in straps and measure for fastening. Place buttons and button­Iwllcs on belt in front.

FiJlishillg sleeves.- Make cuff by folding the goods together crosswise and sewing one-fourth inch seam, leaving it loose enough to slip over the hand easily. Fold back, making the cuff double with seam on inside.

Prepare bottom of the sleeve for the cuff by gathering or laying plaits. Do not allow them to come within one and a haH inches on either side of the under arm seam. (Su Figure 11.) Fif.:. I I.-Finishing

Ihe sleeve Place seam in cuff to seam in sleeve and haste underneath raw edge of cuff to sleeve. Care should be taken h. keep any plaits in sleeVe at right angles to edge of cuff. Fold 1t;lck the outside raw edge of cuff and baste over first line of bast­ing. Sti tch around both edges of cuff on right side.

Plocill.q fu m i,t bollom of waisl.- Make a one and one-fourth inch hem around bottom of wai st, measuring with a yardstick from {loor in the same m.anner as described in making hem in skirt. The hem is turned, basted and sewed in same way as described in skirt.

MIDDY BLOUSE

Materiat.-Galatea, duck, khaki, serge or flannel. TAread.-No. 70 for stitching, No. 50 for buttonholes; twist, if

serge or flannel. Trinlmitlg.- Braid, cotton or linen not wider than one-fourth

inch. Pattern.- Size of bust measure. Style as near that of the regu­

lation middy blouse as possible. P~ttem.-Test pattern as given in directions for wash dress. Place pattem on goods as economically as possible as given in

directions under Russian blouse waist. The separate pieces for the double collar are cut with center b .. ck lengthwise with goods. The collar facing, which is the upper side of the collar when fini shed, and front facings are in one piece and are cut one·eighth inch wider than collar on sides and lower edge, as illustrated in Figure 12, b.

HI UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

Making.- Cut out front, back, collar, sleeves, cuffs and pockd $fitcl.illg sho uldu sco",s.- Baste and stitch shoulder seams <I S

given under Russian Blouse waist. Puttillg on collar.- Sewing on underneath collar: The notchc1

in the collnr pattern are marked showing- where it joins the neck of the blouse. Baste the lower piece in place, matching the marks ex aClly. Stitch the seam. (See Figure 12, a.) Press the seam opel! nnd stitch dose to each side.

Fig. 12.-Pull ing on COIl;IT: a, sewing ullderneath ; b, sewin J:: on facing

P reparing the top collar or CQila r bcing: Mark the allowance left for the seam on the edge of the collar with a basting thread. Baste in place three rows of braid. The outer row should be one­half inch from e<.lge of the collar. The rows should he as far apart as the braid is wide.

Mitre the braid at the comers of the collar. To make a mitre, fol<.1 the braid on itself so that the edge of the braid is runninr at right angles and is forming a diagonal line at the comer. In making the mitre turn the fold in opposite di rections in the two comers of the collnr. Bnste both edges. Stitch hath edges of lhe braid. If a newspaper is laid under the collar it will ai d in keeping the braid straight on the collar while stitching, and may be easily removed after stitching.

Embroider star in each comer of the collaI' if desired. Place the righ t side of the collar facing to the right side of

the collar. Baste and stitch arqund the sides and the lower edge, leaving neck open. Cut off seams one-eigh th inch from :'!ti tching and cut corners diagonally aC I"Os:'!. Turn right side out and pull oul

MAKING A SIMPLE WASH DRESS AND M IDDY BLOUSE 11

corners with a pin if necessary. The inner edge of the collar facing !ll LLst be turned in three-eights of nn inch and basted. Stitch around Ihe neck and down the front, thus finishing the front facing. (See Figure 12. b.)

Setting in slccv(S.-B1ou~e should be laid out flat upon the table rur convenience in setting in the sleeves. Follow directions {or pbcing sleeve in amlhol e as given for RU!i.5ian Blouse. (See Fib'ure 10.)

Measure . bottom of sleeve and the cuff. Divide the difference 11110 sixths ,lI1d lay six small plaits in the sleeve the depth of cuff as Il1dicated in slee"e (Fig. 10). to make the cuff fit. Lay the plaits toward the center. three one way and three the other, and stitch .Ilong the edge of the fold.

F inish the under arm seam by making a continuous french .. I' flat fell -seam leaving 111'0 and one-half inches at bottom of ~ Iccve for a placket. F inish the placket by making a small hem on each side.

Cuffs.-Sew braid on cu ff, one row running thru the center of the upper half and one on each side of center row, the width of the hraid npart. The ends of the braid will turn back in seamS. Fold cuff lengthw ise wit h the right side in and stitch the ends of the cuff. Turn right side out. Join the under edge of the cuff to the sleeve with seam toward the outside. The top edge of the cuff is turned under and basted over the seam. The cuff is then stitched on the edge on all fou r sides. (Su Figure 11.)

Placing packct.-A patch pocket may be placed on the upper left-hand side, six inches dowll f rolll shoulder seam and two inches

in from armhole. Turn hem acro:.s top of pocket and stitch. Turn in other sides of pocket and baste ready to stitch. Baste pocket in place and stit ch around the edge twice, one-fourth inch apart. Be­J;'in stitching' one-half inch from the top of the pocket on side and stitch to the lOp; lurn and stitch back down the edge on the same line of stitching. Fini sh stitching in same manner.

Finish boltom.- Turn a three-quarter inch hem in bottom with under arm seams turning to the front. Baste and stitch.

Fastcllcrs.- Two bu ttons and buttonholes should be placed on each cuff. Buttons should be on the underneath side. If desired, eyelets may be worked at neck to run cord thru for laci ng up the neck.