aapn miami 2010
DESCRIPTION
Peter Waeber, bluesign technologiesTRANSCRIPT
AAPN Meeting 20102 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Pure materials. Pure benefit.
American Apparel Producers' Network
Tuesday May 4, 2010
“Sustainability in the Textile Value Chain”
AAPN Meeting 20103 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Agenda
• Introduction
• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard
» Creating transparency with input stream management
» Industry challenges – resource management
• The bluesign® tools
• End of life considerations
AAPN Meeting 20104 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign technologies ag
• Founded in 2000, based in St.Gallen, Switzerland (EMPA building)
• Emerged from a project with Schoeller Textil, Nike and Huntsman
• Development of “Supply Chain Tools” for the textile and related industry
• Recognized by leading chemical companies
• Supported by well-known brands/retailer
• SGS as shareholder since July 2008
The company
AAPN Meeting 20105 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign technologies ag
Vision
Textile manu-
facturers
Fibre manu-
facturers
ChemicalSuppliers
Brands & Retailers
• “One world – one standard”
• Bringing together the entire textile manufacturing chain to jointly reduce the environmental footprint of the textile and related industry
bluesign® standard
AAPN Meeting 20106 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® member
» Patagonia, USA
» Mountain Equipment CO-OP, Canada
» The North Face, USA
» VAUDE Sports, Germany
» Helly Hansen, Norway
» Eileen Fisher, USA
» Haglöfs, Sweden
» Jako-O, Germany
» R.E.I., USA
» Deuter, Germany
» and others
Brands and retailers
AAPN Meeting 20107 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Agenda
• Introduction
• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard
» Creating transparency with input stream management
» Industry challenges – resource management
• The bluesign® tools
• End of life considerations
AAPN Meeting 20108 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 20109 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201010 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201011 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201012 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201013 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
World resources
Mass flow
Glo
bal M
ass
Flo
ws
Past Present Future
unchangenddevelopment
freezing current state
corporate improvements and private economisation
factor 10
Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules
AAPN Meeting 201014 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201015 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201016 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201017 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201018 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201019 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201020 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Waste water treatment
AAPN Meeting 201021 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Exhaust-air
AAPN Meeting 201022 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Work place conditions
AAPN Meeting 201023 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Waste management
AAPN Meeting 201024 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Efficiency in processing
AAPN Meeting 201025 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Cotton Mill
» 345 – 1050 g/kg textile
Synthetic Mill
» 110 – 820 g/kg textile
Use of chemicals
AAPN Meeting 201026 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What you cannot see at the end-product
Chemicals found in the waste water after the textile finishing process
» Cotton Mill: approx. 65%
» Synthetic Mill: approx. 55%
Chemicals found in the exhaust air after the textile finishing process
» General: approx. 1 to 60%
End-of-pipe situation
AAPN Meeting 201027 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Textile production chain
• Chemicals give textiles the colour and the performance that the consumer demands
• Chemicals are not “bad”, it is what you do with them that can be bad
• A “safe” chemical used badly can be many times more polluting than a classified chemical used correctly
Need for chemicals
AAPN Meeting 201028 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201029 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Strict control mechanism in
the supply chain
Consumers assume that retailers are
managing allrisks (EHS, ethical)
on their behalf
Just one case of allergy or health issue in the public is enough to put the brand at risk
» Restoring a damaged reputation is extremely costly
Retailer/Brand situation
Brand
Customer loyalty• People wear it (often next to skin)• People identify with it•Emotional binding
Customer requirements•A safe product•An environmentally friendly product•A sustainable product
"Brand Protection"
Consequence
AAPN Meeting 201030 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
What happened in the last 20 years?
AAPN Meeting 201031 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Current “ECO” approaches …
Eco labels
… the Solution?
Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)
AAPN Meeting 201032 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Analyses show
» MAK-Amines
» PVC & Phthalates
» APEO
» Heavy Metals
» PFOA and PFOS
» Sensitizing dyes
» Toxic solvents
» Other toxic substances
Harmful substances in textile products!
AAPN Meeting 201033 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Approach by brands and retailers
• Fact: Still a growing number of “problems”
• Sourcing in locations with unknown EHS standards
• Chemical industry can‘t handle more then 160 RSLs
• EHS data of chemical components are often not available
• In many cases, the decision maker at the manufacturing level does not possess the necessary chemical and toxicological know-how
• Uncertainty through “new” problem substances e.g. PFOA / PFOS
Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs
AAPN Meeting 201034 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Material Safety Data Sheet l
Practical experience
Recent European ECLIPS study shows:
» Many MSDS are of generally poor quality
» Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly
» Much of important information not available
» Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69%
AAPN Meeting 201035 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Material Safety Data Sheet ll
Practical experience
MSDS from company with high EHS-Standards:
» Written for environmental chemistry specialists and toxicologists
» Interpretation complicated
» Impossible to predict outcome for final fabric
» For decision maker in production difficult to implement
AAPN Meeting 201036 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Material Safety Data Sheet lll
Practical experience
MSDS of insufficient quality:
» Data content does not allow prediction of impact on environment, workplace or consumer
» Often simply no data or inaccurate data available
» Critical substances listed in RSLs are often not mentioned
» Impossible to know if RSL requirements are met
AAPN Meeting 201037 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Consequence
Practical experience
If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care!
AAPN Meeting 201038 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Agenda
• Introduction
• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard
» Creating transparency with input stream management
» Industry challenges – resource management
• The bluesign® tools
• End of life considerations
AAPN Meeting 201039 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
The bluesign® standard
Environment, health & safety
• No dangerous emissions
• Consumer protection
• Workplace situation
Sustainability
• Resource productivity
• Ecological footprint
• Economic success
Worldwide industry standard
AAPN Meeting 201040 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
The bluesign® standard
• No compromise in functionality, quality or design!
• Solution provider
• Bottom-up concept: Developed in close cooperation with the industry
• Best Available Technology (BAT)
Set-up
AAPN Meeting 201041 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
work place
EHS Aspects …
… in textile production
ground-water contamination
Soilcontamination
NO x
CO2
UFP‘s
CH4
SO2
water
raw material
energy waste water
waste
products
emission
noise
AAPN Meeting 201042 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Blackbox
Conventional approach
Focus on end-product
End-product
Brands need more information
Textile production chain
STOP
AAPN Meeting 201043 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Blackbox
bluesign® approach
bluesign® standard
Monitoring & Optimisation
Input Process / Technology
Focus on input streams
STOP
STOP
End-productTextile production chain
AAPN Meeting 201044 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Input stream management
Over 850 restricted and banned substances are monitored within the bluesign® standard
The five pillars of the bluesign® standard
AAPN Meeting 201045 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Various “Restricted Substance Lists”» The North Face, Nike, Levi’s, New Balance, R.E.I., Columbia, adidas,
PUMA, H&M, C&A, M&S, IKEA, Coats and others
REACH
» Concentration of „Substances of Very High Concern“ (SVHC) in bluesign® approved fabrics is smaller than 0.1%
No reporting requirement according to article 33 REACH
Notification according to article 2 REACH does not apply
» Current list of SVHC on ECHA websitehttp://echa.europa.eu/chem_data/candidate_list_table_en.asp
The bluesign® standard in summary
Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines
AAPN Meeting 201046 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Agenda
• Introduction
• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard
» Creating transparency with input stream management
» Industry challenges – resource management
• The bluesign® tools
• End of life considerations
AAPN Meeting 201048 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Environmental Impacts …
… of the textile industryChemicals
•25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used directly or indirectly for textiles (Source: Greenpeace Germany)
» Environmental impact
Energy
•High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use
» Contribution to global warming (CO2)
•Growing of cotton: 4,000 – 30,000 l / kg cotton•Finishing of textiles: up to 700 l freshwater / kg textile•Waste water in production: up to 600 l / kg textile•Use of water for a large brand – 1,200 small lakes or43,000 Olympic-size swimming pools per annum» Mostly drinking water quality
Water
AAPN Meeting 201049 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Resource management
Resource inflation components (rici):• Electrical Energy ric1
• Water ric2
• Base Chemicals ric3
• Additives ric4
• Calorific Energy ric5
Resource inflation components:
Resource inflation factor: rif = 2.01
rici =
1.0 1.551.0 1.771.0 2.241.0 1.671.0 2.61
BAT current
Resource inflation
AAPN Meeting 201050 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
Energy el. Water Chemicals Auxiliaries Energy cal.
eff. valueBAT internal
Resource management
Cost inflation
rif 2.01
Cost 0.07 €/kWh 2 €/m3 0.45 €/kg 1.1 €/kg 0.015 €/kWh
cif 2.09
Cost savings 897’000 €
BAT
AAPN Meeting 201051 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Examples from manufacturing sites
Resource management
Manufacturer Cost inflation factor
Savings expected Savings realized ROI of bluesign in
Knitwear EU 1.05 587.460.-€ ca. 250.000.-€ < 2 Weeks
Woven’s EU 1.06 242.587.-€ ca. 170.000.-€ < 2 Months
Woven’s Asia 1.07 354.270.-€ ca. 240.000.-€ < 1 Month
Knitwear Asia 1.07 106.260.-€ ca. 80.000.-€ < 4 Months
Knitwear Asia 1.56 565.000.-€ ca. 340.000.-€ < 2 Weeks
Woven’s Asia 1.22 486.000.-€ ca. 400.000.-€ <3 Weeks
Woven’s EU 1.09 238.000.-€ ca. 190.000.-€ 3 Months
Knitwear Asia 1.32 268.670.-€ ca. 220.000.-€ 2 Months
Woven’s EU 1.10 532.070.-€ ca. 356.000.-€ < 1 Month
Woven’s Asia 1.48 4.245.980.-€ ca.2.450.000.-€ <1 Week
Knitwear EU 1.23 328.900.-€ ca. 100.000.-€ < 2 Month
AAPN Meeting 201052 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Example from manufacturing site
• Last year, bluesign technologies was able to save a total of 3120 tons of solvents thanks to various bluesign® screenings and the subsequent implementation of the bluesign® standard
» This is equivalent to a cargo train with 78 wagons
Resource savings
AAPN Meeting 201053 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201054 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201055 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Everest Textile Co., Ltd.
In 2007, Everest partnered with bluesign technologies ag to meet the highest environmental, health and safety requirements for our customers and the environment. Beside the environmental aspects, also the resource analysis, which led to resource and cost saving potentials, proved to be very useful. As a result, we reduced 40% of wastewater emission and 20% of energy consumption in 2007 compared to the previous year. Our customers are impressed by our efforts and glad to have "bluesign® approved fabrics". The bluesign® standard combines eco-friendliness and economic benefits.
Ching-Lai Yeh, President, Everest Textile Co., Ltd. Taiwan
Progress after screening
AAPN Meeting 201056 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Resource management
Moving toward BAT R
esou
rce I
nfl
ati
on
Facto
r (r
if)
Cost Inflation Factor (cif)
Initial-Screening
Optimum
0
1
2
3
1
1. Re-Screening
2. Re-Screening
2.5 1.75
AAPN Meeting 201057 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Comparison current practice – BAT
Cotton knits (batch)
591
325
30
60.3
27.2
1.64
Worst Average BAT
Water[l/kg]
Total Energy[kWh/kg]
AAPN Meeting 201058 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Agenda
• Introduction
• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard
» Creating transparency with input stream management
» Industry challenges – resource management
• The bluesign® tools
• End of life considerations
AAPN Meeting 201059 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® screening
» Rating of all components in use
» Monitoring of processes
» Data acquisition and balancing of resources
» Screening report with recommendations considering the current local situation
» Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology”
Full factory analysis
AAPN Meeting 201060 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® screening
» Transparency in the production
» Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level
» Solution oriented
» Compliance with all common RSLs and meeting SVHC requirements
» “Insurance” for manufacturers, retailers and brands
Outcome
AAPN Meeting 201061 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® applications
• An extensive knowledge base is the basis of the bluesign® standard and the applications
• Criteria define the framework of the bluesign® standard
• Risk assessments and exposure scenarios yield EHS limits
• Homologation of chemical products
Behind the scenes
AAPN Meeting 201062 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201063 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® bluetool – the science gateway
• Access to an independent, expert third party to evaluate and improve your chemical products
• bluesign® approved chemical products comply with global RSLs, eco labels and legislations
• Get your bluesign® approved chemical products published on the bluesign® bluefinder
Benefits
AAPN Meeting 201064 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® bluefinder – the advanced search engine
• Optimise chemical sourcing regarding consumer safety using the bluesign® bluefinder
• The bluesign® bluefinder provides comprehensive information about sustainable production
• Get extensive access to manufacturers of bluesign® approved chemicals, dyestuffs and auxiliaries
Benefits
AAPN Meeting 201065 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
bluesign® blueguide – the comprehensive database
• Access to a comprehensive sourcing instrument for sustainable textiles, accessories and trims
• Get extensive information about environment, health and safety issues
• Access to manufacturers of bluesign® approved fabrics
Benefits
AAPN Meeting 201066 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Agenda
• Introduction
• Current situation: Today’s management of complex “Environment, Health & Safety” (EHS) problems
• The bluesign® standard
» Creating transparency with input stream management
» Industry challenges – resource management
• The bluesign® tools
• End of life considerations
AAPN Meeting 201067 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
End-of-Life
Amount of waste (Switzerland)
Source: NZZ Folio
Garbage 353 kgPaper 170 kgGarden Waste 118 kgGlass 41 kgElectronic Waste 13.1 kgTextiles 6.3 kgPET 4.3 kgMetals 1.6 kgAluminium 0.7 kgBateries 0.3 kg
709 kgper person and
year
Textiles correspond to0.9 % of total waste
AAPN Meeting 201068 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
End-of-Life
Options for textiles today
• Re-use, Re-pair, Re-purpose
» Charity
» Second Hand
» Re-design
• Recycle
» Industrial recycling
» Composting?
• Incineration and/or Landfill
AAPN Meeting 201069 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
End-of-Life
Example re-use
AAPN Meeting 201070 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
End-of-Life
• ECOLOG Recycling-Network (Vaude)
• GORE™ BALANCE PROJECT™ (Gore)
• Common Threads Recycling Program (Patagonia), ECOCIRCLE™ (Teijin)
• Composting?
Examples recycling
AAPN Meeting 201071 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
End-of-Life
• „As a basic principle a recycling system is only sensible if an ecological benefit results and if the collection and processing is economically bearable and assured from a long term perspective.“(Source: Marianne Stünzi, Associat General Manager Pusch [Swiss NGO])
• If we don‘t stop the streams of resources currently flowing into the production of goods, but instead force them into cycles that require additional transport, use up new resources and need even more energy, we will eventually experience a material „blockage“ of the economy – with non-assessable ecological consequences(Source: Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, President Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules)
Basic principles for recycling
AAPN Meeting 201072 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Recycling
Limits for recycling
AAPN Meeting 201073 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Composting
• Generally unfavorable composting conditions
• Dyes designed to be stable
It sounds green to say „this article can be composted“, but the reality is local facilities do not exist, old garments end up in incineration or landfill
Limits for composting
AAPN Meeting 201074 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
„End-of-Life“ thinking
• “End-of-Life” starts with the design
• Products must be „mono-material“
• Products must be designed for disassembly
• Recycling loops must be established (e.g. ECOCIRCLE™)
Consequence for design
AAPN Meeting 201075 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
AAPN Meeting 201076 | 77 , May 4, 2010, Miami Beach, Florida
© by bluesign technologies ag
Conclusion
• Input stream management
» Use resource efficient materials and processes
• Implementation of sustainability tools in the supply chain
» Easy manageable tools to reduce workload and complexity
• Main goal
» Improvement of resource productivity – optimization of MIPS (Material Input Per Service-unit)(Prof. Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, France)
Reducing the ecological footprint
bluesign technologies ag
EMPA Building
Lerchenfeldstrasse 5
CH-9014 St. Gallen
Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90
Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99
www.bluesign.com
Thank you