absolutely chelsea 07 2012

7/18/2019 Absolutely Chelsea 07 2012

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THE FINALCOUNTDOWN

SHAPING UP FORTHE BEACH

COOKING UP

A STORMTHE RETURN OFTOM AIKENS

Chelsea

BROWNIANMOTIONBROWNS' CAROLINEBURSTEIN TAKESON CHELSEA

THE ROYALSREVEALED

UNDERCOVERWITH ARTIST

ALISON JACKSON

BEYONDBIBABARBARAHULANICKI'SWORLD OFINTERIORS

JULY 2012

3.95

Sail awayAHOY TO SIZZLINGSUMMER FASHION

ABSOLUTELY


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LEADING LADY NYC COLLECTION

THE BEST IS YET TO COME


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ABSOLUTELYJULY 2012

7 EDITORS LET TER

STYLE

10 ABSOLUTELY LOVESAbsolutelys top ten this month

13 CLOSET

CONFIDENTIALe most stylish buys for the beach

15 FASHION NOTESSeductive swimwear, plus Paul Costelloe

23 BEAUTY FLASHAbsolutelys best beauty buys of the month

24 BEAUTY

CONFIDENTIALBeauty news and tips

27 SHAMANIC VERSESShamanism is the new yoga, says Anna Hunt

36 SAIL ON

Kaftan chic on board yacht

56 FINAL COUNTDOWN10 ways to get in shape for the beach

61 BODY BEAUTIFULCarole Caplin on getting fit in the sun

CONTENTS66 INTERIOR LIFE

Tim Goslings room-by-room style guide

68 DIARY OF A DESIGNERA brief encounter with Joanna Wood

FOOD & TRAVEL71 THE COMEBACK KID

e return of the ir repressible Tom Aikens

76 RESTAURANT REVIEWSPainted Heron and Cheyne Walk Brasserie

81 ESCAPEWe check in at Goodwood

82 WATERWORLDe best water sports holidays

84 CITY OF GODSSorrentos classical heritage

PROPERTY

118

CHARMING CHELSEA

120 IN THEIR OWN WORDS

Patrick Bullick, STANLEY Chelsea

126 FABULOUS FULHAM

ARTS AND CULTURE

31 WH ATS ONOur local culture diary

34

CULTURE FLASHis months highl ights

49 LONDON CALLINGe capital under the lens, f rom 1930 to1980, at Tate Britain

PEOPLE17 BROWN SUGAR

Browns creative director Caroline Bursteintakes on Chelsea

44 LIGHT MY FIREBiba founder Barbara Hulanicki turns hereye to interiors

52 CANDID CAMERAAlison Jackson tal ks celebrit y cultu re

INTERIORS63 BOUDOIR BELLES

Eight of the best bedroom accessories

65

INTERIOR INSPIRATIONGemma Billingtons picks of the month


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ABSOLUTELYJULY 2012

EDITORSLETTER

Throughout the long winter nights and indeedthe wintry summer nights most of us longfor heady holidays on the scorching sands ofMediterranean, or further flung, beaches. Welust for the rare sensation of the sun beating

down on our backs and the chance to snooze sporadicallywhile dipping in to both our summer reading and our

summer cocktails. But as soon as we get to within a coupleof weeks of scurrying off to sunnier climes, the panicinevitably sets in, namely that unique dread of the annualreveal of ones pallid and paunchy skin.

is year, weve resolved not to bow to the horror, and assuch have devised a ten-step guide to how to look and feelgood in your bathers. From waxing to dance classes, checkout our recommendations on p.56. For the more last-minuteamongst us, Carole Caplin lifestyle and fitness guru advises honing your body on the beach. She gives us her mostfun tips for using sun, sea and sand as a personal gym (p.61).

I caught up with one woman who recently swapped her

adopted beachside home in Miami for London albeit onlyfor a fleeting visit. Barbara Hulanicki is the brains behindBiba, an abiding icon of the sixties, but her design geniusdoes not stop at the sartorial. We met to talk about her newfireplaces for Chesneys, as well as her legacy as a grande dameof that most swinging of decades. Turn to p.47 to read moreabout this most charming designer, whose flair has garneredher a legion of fans, from Mick Jagger to Bridget Bardot.

No stranger, meanwhile, to celebrity is Alison Jackson.e artist behind the BAFTA-winningDoubletakeanda myriad of witty paparazzi shots of lookalike A-listersgranted us an interview as she prepares to judge the

FOTO8 photography competition. Henry Barlow met herto talk about our fascination with images of celebs goingabout their daily tasks read more on p.52.

And finally, we take beachside inspiration from ourgorgeous fashion shoot as styled by Charlie Moore onMartin Summers Bluebird of Chelsea yacht (p.36). If wecant get to the beach just yet, we can but dream

Nancy Alsop

Editor

CONTRIBUTORS

FIND US ON FACEBOOKABSOLUTELY MAGAZINES

AND TWITTERABSOLUTELY_MAGS

CHARLIE MOORECharlie is a stylist with over adecades experience honing thelooks of a wealth of A-list clients,most recently for e GoldenGlobes. She has styled shoots forthe likes of Marie Claire, Glamour,

You magazine and e Times.

TIM GOSLINGTim Gosling is a furniture designerwhose distinguished work adornse Savoy and e Goring. isyear, his endless portfolio is set toexpand with the publication of hissecond book, Londons Secrets: ADraughtsmans Guide.


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EDITORINCHIEFHarriet Compston

EDITOR Nancy Alsop

TR AVEL EDITOR Priscilla Pollara

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Katie Randall

EDITORIAL INTERN Esther Smith

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Paul Costelloe, Katy Jarratt

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Charlie Tiptaft

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERAmelia Purnell

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Greg Cole

GROUP PROPERTY DIRECTORAlexandra Hunter

CENTRAL PROPERTY MANAGERAnna Hutton-Potts

HEA D OF DESIGNRay Searle

SENIOR DESIGNERStewart Hyde

DESIGNERAndrew Mavin

PRODUCTION ASSISTANTLauren Giles

FINANCE DIRECTORAlexandra Hvid

MARKETING MA NAGERJessica Batten

MANAGING DIRECTORSherif Shaltout

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Zest Media London Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs.While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Zest Media London Ltd. take no responsibility

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FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @ABSOLUTELY_MAGSFACEBOOK ABSOLUTELY NOTTING HILL

Chelsea


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KENZO MAISON AT HARRODSKenzo clothes have occupied a prominent position on

our lust list for some years, and now the Parisian fashionhouse has applied its unerring aesthetic to the home. ecollection which has launched exclusively in Harrods

features a beautifully vibrant palette of colours used on thelikes of rugs and cushions. kenzo.com; harrods.com

DE FERRANTIS HAND-PAINTED TILESNothing transports us to heady days ofholidays in gothic Lisbon like the city scharacteristic hand-painted tiles. NowDe Ferranti has launched its own range,

inspired by a collage of tiles at LisbonsPalacio dos Marqueses de Fronteira wecan see them in our kitchen already.De Ferranti, 583 Kings Road, SW6;deferranti.com

PAUL AND JOEBLOTTING PAPERSNothing quite takes the sheen off oursummer look quite like... well, a sheen ofperspiration. Enter then Paul and Joesblotting papers, a quick dab of which willbanish excess oil plus they look so prettyin your handbag. Blotting paper refills

3.50, available at Harrods and asos.com

10things we

LOVEAbsolutely

THE ORANGE PUBLICHOUSE AND HOTEL

A recent visit to e Orange made us fallin love all over again. And whats not to

like? e elegance of the stucco-frontedbuilding? e relaxed yet chic interior?

e sublime food? Or the four boutiqueand beautiful rooms upstairs to flop downin after a hearty meal? theorange.co.uk


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HOLLYS HOUSEHollys House is our latest interiors crush,selling as it does, a brilliant and eclectic

edit of homewares (ranging from theshabbily chic to the surreal) both from itsNew Kings Road store and online. We

want practically everything.hollys-house.com

THE CHAPOLYMPIADOlympic fever has well and trulytaken hold in the capital, but forthose who find the Lycra, thecompetitive spirit and the exertion alltoo, too much, the Chap Olympiadrepresents an altogether more refined

and gentle take on the games. Expecta celebration of athletic ineptitudeand immaculate trouser creases, withpanache rewarded over ability.7&8 July; thechapolympiad.com

GYMKHANA WALLPAPERIts pink, its covered in ponies whatelse would any self-respecting horse-loverdecorate their bedroom with?

70 per roll; hibouhome.com

STYLE

STRIPStrip is theplace to go for a pre-holiday wax. Soimagine our delight at the fact that it now notonly does HD Brows, but is also offering a freelaser underarm course when a laser Brazilian/Hollywood or large area course is purchased forthe first twenty Absolutely Chelsea readers toquote this offer. t&cs apply... stripwaxbar.com

FIELD CANDY TENTSOur relationship with camping is ambivalent to say the least (its the 3am loo dash in thedark and the mud that usually and abruptly quells our initial enthusiasm). But if all

tents were this witty and pretty, we could be persuaded to re-consider our misgivings. Weespecially love Field Candys sheep-printed designs, but outdoorsy types can also choosetents printed with watermelon, and even a cheeky canoodling couple. Happy campers allround. From 395; fieldcandy.com

KATE SPADETIDBIT PLATES

We are loving Kate Spades Headlinetableware, with its lashings of New York

fashion pack glam. We are especiallyenamoured of the tidbit plates (50 for a set

of four), which are charm itself.Available at johnlewis.com

STYLE

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www.projectx-london.co.uk

Whats going

on inCovent Garden?

A killer concoction of timetravel, murder and cryptic cluesin a world where things arent

what they appear to be


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Making

Wavese hottest swimwear andaccessories for beach belles

1. HEIDI KLEINWide-brim buckle hat, 135; heidiklein.com 2. DIANE VON FURSTENBERGKanda short kaftan, 276;my-wardrobe.com 3. PRET-A-SURF Polka dot rouched swimsuit, 310; pretasurf.com 4. ZIMMERMANN Navy Memoir under-wireflounce swimsuit, 133; my-wardrobe.com 5. CARTIER Collection Premire Cartier composite sunglasses, 470; cartier.co.uk

6. SENSI STUDIO Straw bag, 165; matchesfashion.com 7. PAUL SMITH Geometric print cut-out swimsuit, 105; paulsmith.co.uk8. HAVAIANAS Gold-leaf flip flops, 80; heidiklein.com 9. PRADA Butterfly-frame acetate sunglasses, 215; net-a-porter.com

10. DVF Mini spot leopard red Lorena bikini, 113; my-wardrobe.com

ISSASPRINGSUMMER2

012

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T 01372 274249 E [email protected] W www.santlondon.com

FINE FURNITURE

Sant London is

headed up by

David Sant,ex Senior Designer

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Bringing new and refreshing designs to the marketplace we allow our clients the full freedom to

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AHOYTHERE!

Accessory queensTatty Devine havecome up trumps withthis adorable sailboat pin.

e inevitable nautical trend

surfaces every summer, and this broochis sweet enough to make a playful yetsubtle style statement.Sailing Boat Brooch in blue, 35;tattydevine.com

Costelloeconfidential

Paul Costelloe shares hisbeauty secrets...

Ive been in Hong Kong this week,

where its was 40C. No such luck back

in London, where weve been wearing

a weird mixture of summer weights

teamed with uncomfortable winter jackets.

is month were focusing on health

and beauty. As a regular cyclist I anticipate

that there is going to be a big increase in

unqualified cyclists taking to the road, once

the Olympic travel lanes are enforced. Just

remember a slow cyclist is as dangerous onthe road as a slow motorist! Keeping up at a

steady speed requires a certain level of fitness.

So ditch those doughnuts, because we only

have three weeks left, and soon it will be the

only stress-free mode of travel!

Most important after fitness is lookingfit.

eres still a small percentage of men who

refuse to groom; theres no excuse anymore.

Im a fan of the Liz Earle male grooming

products (uk.lizearle.com), particularly the

sensitive shave cream and the after-shave

moisturiser. ey are simple and full ofbotanical goodness. is, combined with

a nice, fresh Paul Costelloe shirt will do

the business. I went along to one of my

younger sons cricket matches recently, and

was struck by how they all appeared like

something from a fashion shoot. is is

the look you should aim for.

Not forgetting the girls. My wife is

obsessed with Acqua di Parma body

cream (acquadiparma.it). It just smells

of Italy. is combined with a pair of

perfectly manicured feet is all you need.

For my S/S12 collection we used Nice isNice by Essie. It was the perfect shade of lilac

and very directional for this season.

paulcostelloe.com

BOUTIQUE-IN-BRIEFBUTLER AND WILSON189 FULHAM ROAD, SW3;BUTLERANDWILSON.CO.UK

THE IDEA:

It all began in 1969 when Nicky Butler and

Simon Wilson had the idea of bringingflamboyance and fun to fashion via an

Aladdins cave of colourful costumejewellery and playful, vintage-inspiredpieces at affordable prices.

THE USP:

eres nowhere quite like it. From theflapper dresses in the window to the surfeitof bling, it makes even the most seriousfashionista feel like a child in a sweet shop.

THE BUY:Outsized flowery crystal and semi-precious necklaces, quirky one-off earring(in the shape of crystal shoes, anyone) andknuckleduster skull rings.

FASHIONNOTES

COSY CASHMERESeasons move quickly in the worldof fashion and A/W12collections are stealthily findingtheir way into retailers. ebeautiful new collection fromOyuna makes the transition

without fri lls or slavish catwalkworship; just classic, wel l-structuredpieces in luxurious cashmere. Werealmost wishing the nights were

drawing in already. oyuna.com

STYLE

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STYLE

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Browns CarolineBurstein is on the brinkof opening a new store inChelsea. She talks Sloanestyle withNancy Alsop

Brownsugar

You are about to open a new store on Sloane

Street. Why now? It just feels right, and wehave always allowed our gut instincts to guide

our decisions. We love the more laid-back

and residential feel of the Sloane Square

end of Sloane Street, and it allows us to do

something new and fresh, which is always

very exciting.

How will it be different to the flagship store

and Browns Focus? It is much smaller than

South Molton Street and more intimate.

Weve aimed for a warm, personal feel, and

we plan to cover a mix of designers that will

represent the best from both Browns andBrowns Focus.

Youve collaborated with Joel Bernstein,

co-owner of CocoMaya how did that come

about?We have known each other for more

years than we like to say. I always felt we had a

similar view on life and I adore Joels taste, so

it felt natural.

What are you most excited about in the

new store? I think its the fitting rooms,

although every bit of the store has detailsthat we both relate to.

You have worked to reflect the Chelsea

area how so?We love the fact that so much

of Chelsea is established and residential,

with many young people as well as residents

who have lived and shopped in the area for

generations. It feels exciting right now with

e Royal Court eatre, the Saatchi Gallery,

the Saturday food market, and my lunchtime

favourites CocoMaya and Poilane all on the

doorstep. Im excited about Jeremy King and

Chris Corbins new restaurant soon-to-opennext to e Royal Court. We want our shop

to be a must-see on everyones list it will

reflect the intimacy and the sophistication

that is part of being a Sloane!

What designers should we be looking

out for?Watch out for the re-introduction

of Calvin Klein, and long-time favourite

Dosa. Both are American and though

opposite in style, both are timeless. e

luxurious and modern Revillon is new and

exclusive to Browns, and another favouriteis Olympia Le Tans book clutches

and Gianvitto Rossis shoes and boots.

British favourites are Christopher Kane,

Roksanda, Erdem, Meadham Kirchhoff,CALVIN KLEIN

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Great savings on sofas, tables, wall systems and lots more!

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ALSO SAVE UP TO 50% ON ALL CLEARANCE ITEMS.

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STYLE

19

Whats your best al l-time fashionmoment?

I think it was the strong emotion that

pulsed all around at any Alexander

McQueen show when he was alive.

Ashish, Stella McCartney, David

Koma, Mark Fast and Simone

Rocha to name but a talented few!

Define your style in three words

Instinctive, timeless and

unpretentious.

Browns has always championed

new designers. Who is on your

fashion radar r ight now? I would

say it has to be Simone Rocha as the

one to watch and Mary Katrantzou

is going from strength-to-strength.

What looks of the season are you

especially loving?As I write thisall the shops are about to go on sale,

and summer has not even begun!

is is a great chance to buy a floral

piece, still a very strong trend and

beautifully produced by so many of

our designers. However we will no

doubt also be seeing the first winter

clothes (no doubt under sweltering

sun), amongst which you will find

yet more florals, and youl l

notice the clothes have strong

lines and are in rich colours.It will also be a season

that offers an amazing

opportunity to invest in

some unique and timeless

embellished pieces that show

that the art of needlepoint and

passementerie are still very much

alive and well .

And what is your fashion

pet hate?

London is so great for its individual

style, however bold or subtle, and Ilove to see it all.

Whose st yle do you really rate?

Well I do really love the way

Amanda Harlech dresses. She has such a

free spirit; being a beauty does help, but I

really admire the intuitive way she dresses.

She has great taste and great style, and

most importantly she is a lovely and

genuine woman.

Fashion icons?I dont have an icon as such but Ive always

loved the work of Dries Van Noten, Comme

des Garcons and Junya Watanabe, plus I have

tremendous respect for Hussein Chalayan.

If you didnt work in fashion, what would

you be doing? Id be back in the world

of beauty where I started with Molton

Brown which I founded along with my

then-husband Michael Collis. I still have a

passion for that world of little pots of cream

that make you look and feel better, it takes

me closer to my soul!

Your mother is the much-revered Mrs B

who founded Browns with your father, and

your brother Simon took over as managing

director in 2007 whats it like working

with family? Everything has its plus and

minus, but we are all close to not only each

other but also to our wonderful team and we

do care for each other on a human level andnot only as employee versus employer.

What makes

the Browns

shopping

experience so

very special?

As a family business

we encourage warmth

and welcome. Our sales

team is knowledgeable

and passionate about theproducts we sell and as trained

personal stylists, they will

go to all lengths to help a

customer. Our buying team is

still briefed by Mrs B which

ensures the stock we buy is

always beautiful and wearable.

We are proud that we have staff

members who have been with us

for over 30 years as well as young

fashionistas who live and breath

and party fashion! We are a real

United Nations and whatever agewe may be we are kept young by our

love of fashion and I hope this shows

in our shops.

Who is the Browns woman?

Any woman who seeks to understand

the meaning of true style. ere is no age

barrier for a Browns shopper, she is united

by her appreciation of the workmanship that

goes into the making of beautiful garments.

Whats next on the Browns horizon?We are always juggling many balls at once, so

simply watch this space!

brownsfashion.com

CALVIN KLEIN AW/12

PREVIOUS PAGE: RUPERTSANDERSON SHOES; THIS PAGE:RUPERT SANDERSON LOAFERS,ROLAND MOURET STRETCH WOOLDRESS AND OLYMPIA LE TAN CLUTCH


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THE HAND AND FOOT SPA

Winner of Nail Salon of the Year 2012

e Hand and Foot Spa offers a wealth oftreatments exclusively for your digits. Celebratingits first anniversary this month, the specialist spahas already been voted Nail Salon of the Year2012. Treatments to try include the MedicalPedicure, Luxury Spa Manicure and the range ofSomething Extra treatmentse Hand and Foot Spa, 153 Fulham Road, SW3;

020 7589 1070; handandfootspa.co.uk

From rare tomes to treatments forfingers and toes, Absolutelypicks thecream of the Fulham Roads crop

A Full

House FARROW & BALLe Farrow & Ball Fulham Roadshowroom showcases the exquisite

collection of 132 richly pigmentedpaint colours and artisanal

wal lpapers. Customers canexperiment with colour, textureand finish all available in a rangeof interior and exterior eco-friendlyfinishes. Our experienced team arealways available for colour advice.

249 Fulham Road , SW3;020 7351 0273; farrow-ball.com

THE WEDDING SHOPEstablished for over 20 years, e

Wedding Shop is the go-to place

for wedding lists. Choose fromover 250 international brands for atruly tailor-made wedding list. Alsofind out about e Collection, anexciting new venture which housesonce-worn and sample dresses fromthe most prestigious designers inbridal fashion.171 Fulham Road, SW3;020 7384 8400; weddingshop.com


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ABSOLUTELY

PROMOTION

PETER HARRINGTONPeter Harrington is Londons leading

rare book shop, selling first editions in all fieldsas well as contemporary prints and antique maps. It has itsown Chelsea Bindery, producing beautiful hand-bound leatherbindings, such as this 1906 copy of J. M. Barries Peter PaninKensington Gardens the first edition tofeature the now quintessential artworkof Arthur Rackham.98-100 Fulham Road, SW3;

020 7591 0220; peterharrington.co.uk

KINGSCOURTGALLERIESKingsCourtGallerieshasextensiveantiqueandcontemporarydecorativemapsandprints.ItspecialisesinLondon,butalsoholdsthousandsofotheritems.eonsitew

orkshopproduces

highquality,handmadeconservationframes.Ithas30years

experienceinhowtopresentyourartwork,bothclassicandcontemporary.Bepreparedtobeamazed.949-953FulhamRoadSW6;02076106939;kingscourtgalleries.co.uk

GONGGONG invites you to view its 1950scollection, designed by Guil laumeEvrard. Discover the fine lightingcollection, which comes in antique brass,

with enamel matt shades complete witha beautiful golden hue inside.172 Fulham Road, SW10;

020 7370 7176; gong.co.uk

ELECTROCLINICe experts at Electroclinicrepair ailing but salvageabletablets, smart phones, gamesconsoles, PCs, laptops andrestore them back to full health

and fighting form. Can they fixit? Yes they can!369-D, Fulham Road, SW10;020 7351 2801;electroclinic.co.uk

HANSENSVisit Hansens Chefs Shop for gadgets, light equipment and utensilssuch as pots, pans, bakeware, chopping boards and Lacanche ovenranges. Hansens also designs and installs commercial-quality

stainless steel kitchens. Its knowledgeable staff will help select thebest product for your needs.306 Fulham Rd, SW10; 020 7351 6933; hansens.co.uk

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STYLE

1. KRASTASE BAIN APRS-SOLEIL SHAMPOO, 14.90; kerastase.co.uk2. ERNO LASZLO FIRMARINE EYE THERAPY SERUM,125; harrods.com3. CRME DE LA MER THE MIST, 45 FOR 125ML; cremedelamer.co.uk 4. LANCME STAR BRONZER MINERAL

MAT, 32.50; lancome.co.uk 5. PHENOMEN EYES WATERPROOF MASCARA, 22; houseoffraser.co.uk 6. CLINIQUE CHUBBY STICKSMOISTURIZING LIP COLOUR BALM, 16; clinique.co.uk 7. LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS SPF 30 SPRAY, 17,35; laroche-posay.co.uk

8. CHANTECAILLE JUST SKIN TINTED MOISTURISER, 55;uk.spacenk.com 9. BUMBLE AND BUMBLE SURF SPRAY, 19.50 FOR125ML; bumbleandbumble.co.uk 10. NARS MONO BODY GLOW II, 44; narscosmetics.co.uk

Absolutelys best beachbag must-haves

BeautyFlash

TOP TEN


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Bath butlers at e Goring, plus three of the bestways to protect your skin from the suns rays

Beauty

Confidential

NOBLE CAUSEWere fully signed up members of the Noble

Isle fan club any beautybrand that has botheredto travel the British Islesto source ingredients for

Heather Honey handwash and lotion madefrom Perthshire bees,scores points with us.Simple and modern, thebrand is now available

at Fortnum and Mason,Liberty and Fenwick.nobleisle.com

ITS A LOCK INe Chelsea Day Spa is offering its pampered clientele thechance to real ly shut out the rest of the world. Just rally nineof your friends, and the boutique spa will close its doors toanyone else for up to eight hours. Choose from a menu of

your choice of Darphin or Hydropeptide prescriptive andanti-ageing facials, deep tissue and aromatherapy massages,manicures and pedicures including gel overlays using nail

care brand Jessica, waxing, threading and lash tinting allthe while scoffi ng fresh fruit and cupcakes, herbal tea andchampagne.1,000 for private hire of e Chelsea Day SpaBoutique from 10am-6pm during Sundays and Mondays, onlyupon advance request. Hours can be extended upon request.thechelseadayspa.co.uk

BATHINGBEAUTIES

e Goring pre-nuptialcrash pad of the Duchess

of Cambridge is anundisputedly lovely place tostay. But between 15 Julyand September, the hotelsguests will be encouraged totransport themselves acrossthe globe by way of the bath.

With Molten Brown, the hotelis offering a London via the

World bathing menu inspiredby the brands fragrance

collections. Channel China, e Gulf ofGuinea, Australia and Madagascar with theaid of a Goring bath butler. thegoring.com

THE PERFECT BLENDWe are loving Blend Collectives simpleand stylish packaging as well as thedelicious scents that are the threadsrunning throughout the range, whichincludes hand cream (12.50), candles(25) and a balancing soap bar (9.50), all

of which have been devised especially byleading UK perfumers.Available at GeneralTrading Company, SW7; blendcollective.co.uk

AFTER-SUNS

OF THEBEST

ELEMENTALHERBOLOGY

Skin Drink,24;elementalherbology.com

KIEHLSAcai DamageRepairing Serum,

37; kiehls.co.uk

SISLEYAfter-Sun Care TanExtender,83.50;uk.spacenk.com

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ABSOLUTELY

PROMOTION

SCULPT

YOUR BODYSLIM IN SIXWEEKSLouise Parker and her dedicated team areready to bust your body into shape for spring

THE INTENSIVEPERSONAL TRAININGPROGRAMME was devisedby celebrity trainer Louise

Parker over 12 years ago and has sincechanged the body shape of hundredsof individuals. Her experience rangesfrom helping clients recover from long-term obesity, to taking care of some ofthe most beautiful bodies in the world.

e unique programme combinessix hours a week of her exercise

method, alongside a rigorous dietaryoverhaul, for a six-week period. Eachweek we train you in four 90-minutesessions in the comfort of your ownhome bringing thegym to you and savingprecious time, saysLouise. Some clientschoose to do three90-minute sessions overan eight-week periodand the results are still

exceptional.e Intensive employs exercise anddiet methods that radically shift bodyfat and totally re-sculpt the body,without compromising metabolism.Its so important to teach our clientshow to boost their metabolism sothat once they have lost the weightthey can easily keep it off, she notes.So many diets wil l get the weightoff but your metabolism will cometo a grinding halt or they are justnot sustainable. e programmes

emphasis on resistance work andan intelligent eating plan ensurethe results that clients achieve arelong lasting and, most of all, easy tomaintain. No aspect of what we do is

extreme, she explains. Every elementof the plan is sensible, researched andproven to work. But what we do isput it all together to create massivetransformations in our clients bodiesand lifestyles.

My team are world class andwithout doubt some of the best in thecountry. Most come from a SportsScience background and we have twoOlympic athletes amongst us. We allshare a friendly, no-nonsense approach

and between us we offer an unrivalledservice to our clients. Im hugely proudto have such a talented and committedteam behind me.

Louise Parker believes anyone canhave a fantastic body regardless ofage, body type and starting point: Byfollowing my method, you really wi llbe blown away by how you can changeyour body shape, overall fitness andexceed your own expectations.

Her programme is suitable foranyone wanting exceptional results, inrecord time. e Intensive is hugelypopular with clients needing to bewhat she calls red-carpet ready whether that s for a wedding, new

job-role or even the school run. Ilove helping post-natal mums, sheexplains. Since I had my daughtersin quick succession, I fully understandthe challenges new mothers are faced

with, and what has to be done toreturn you to your former glory.

Louise Parker designs eachprogramme with one of her teambefore the programme commences,based on the individuals requirementsand deadlines. A rigid, yet balancedfood plan is devised, ensuring optimalresults. Louise personally monitorsyour diet diary on a daily basis toensure you are on the right trackand that you get all the support and

motivation you need to succeed. Insix weeks, you will emerge lookingbetter than you thought you evercould. What Louise Parker does

isnt gimmicky, it isinstead an intelligentcombination of threefactors nutrition,training and lifestyle delivered in just the rightcombination. Providingyou have made the

decision to change and are willing tolet us guide you, she asserts, Yousimply cannot fail clients routinelydrop two dress sizes on the Intensive.

ere are many bespokeprogrammes available, and followinga telephone consultation, Louise willadvise a suitable programme andschedule to suit any objective, lifestyleand budget. Louise asks that newclients commit to a minimum of threehours per week to ensure that theyachieve amazing results.

Louise Parker Personal Training,2 Eaton Gate, SW1W 9BJ0800 084 [email protected]

You simply cannot fail -clients routinely drop two

dress sizes on the Intensive


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Celebrity journalist turned shamenAnna Huntexplainswhy the ancient art of healing is todays answer to yoga

The

versesShamanic

environmental crises) leaves everyone onedge, trying to make sense of where we

fit. Cue a shift in our definition of success

from the aggressive pursuit of wealth and

status, to living well, in harmony with the

environment and with ourselves. Which is

where shamanism comes in.

Einsteins formula E=mc2 confirms

what shamans have always known that

everything with mass/form, from a person

to a plant to a thought, consists of energy.

It follows that if you can move energy, you

can alter life. Using a range of techniquesincluding acupressure, visualisation, herbs,

plant medicines (including the mythical

During recent filming of a remakeof e Lone Rangerin New

Mexico, Johnny Depp accepted

an invitation to become an

honorary member of a Navajo Indian tribe.

Its incredibly rare for tribal elders to extend

such an offer and yet the Hollywood star

is not alone in his interest in indigenous

tribes and their spiritual traditions. Robbie

Williams, Owen Wilson, Sheryl Crow, Tori

Amos, Sting and Yoko Ono are among a

host of celebrities who have referred to the

importance of shamanic healers in their livesas a route to emotional stability, inner peace

and enhanced physical health. And the red

carpet treatment before this years Oscars was

reconnective healing, a shamanic technique.

Where celebrities lead, we follow,

and shamanism is on the cusp of going

mainstream, set to become to the tweenies

what yoga was to the nineties. Todays

global mood (defined by the economic and

hallucinogens, ayahuasca), crystals andsound, a shamen assists by moving energy,

thereby alleviating emotional distress and

physical challenges. Europes indigenous

shamanic traditions were stamped out during

the Inquisition, but among the Navajo and in

South America these arts have been passed

down the generations from shaman to chosen

apprentice in strict secrecy for 40,000 years.

e Shaman In Stilettos,the English version

ofEat Pray Love, describes my experiences

having been chosen as such an apprentice.

I was a 29-year-old Cambridge graduate,leading a glam but stressful life as a celebrity

interviewer for a national newspaper,

who fled to the untouched wilderness

of the Amazon rainforest where I spent

months drinking one of the most potenthallucinogenic drugs in a bid to find inner

peace and being apprenticed with Maximo

Morales, a sexy and sophisticated shaman.

Today, though I continue to write for e

Daily Mail, I spend the majority of my time

working as a shaman leading international

retreats, workshops and one-on-one

consultations, distilling

the best of shamanic

techniques and making

them relevant for 21st-

century professionals.

e Shaman In Stilettos

is published by Penguin

8.99; annahunt.comJOHNNY DEPP, YOKO ONO,OWEN WILSON, SHERYL CROWAND TORI AMOS

Among the Navajo, these arts havebeen passed down from shamen tochosen apprentice for 40,000 years

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PORTIA FREEMAN, SUKIWATERHOUSE AND

CHLOE HAYWARD

ELLEN VON UNWERTHAND TALI LENNOX

JOHN MADEJSKI

DANIEL TOPOLSKI ANDBASIA BRIGGS

ALIONA ADRIANOVAAND ROBBIE HONEY

LEIGH LEZARK

CARA DELVIGNE(WEARING HALSTONHERITAGE) ANDPIXIE GELDOF

BIP LING

Absolutely

SOCIALDO NOT DISTURB

Last month Ellen von Unwerthcelebrated her new show DO NOTDISTURB at the Michael Hoppengallery with a private view for 200

of fashions most influential. Guestssipped a bespoke Grey Goose cocktaildesigned to von Unwerths taste, whichfeatured fresh ginger and lime muddledtogether and topped with Grey Goose

vodka and a splash of ginger beer.

GOOD EGGSOwners of Hyde Park Stables Richard and BasiaBriggs, last month hosted a party at their Chelseahome to celebrate the purchase for 7,000 oftheir Mark Shand-designed, Union Flag-paintedFaberg egg, the proceeds from which go to thetravel writer and Indophiles elephant appeal.

KELLYBROOK

MATTHEWSTEEPLES

PEREGRINEHEATHCOTE

KELLY HOPPEN

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A legal forceof natureThe Daily Telegraph

One of the first solicitors to qualify as a family law arbitrator throughthe newly-formed Institute of Family Law Arbitrators (IFLA).

The first Chief Assessor and Chief Examiner of the Law SocietysFamily Law Panel.A Fellow of the International Academy of Matrimonial Lawyers:

a global association of lawyers recognised for expertise in theirrespective countries.

Located in WC1, Stowe Family Law specialises in

family law issues; from divorce to cohabitees rights,with dedicated international and childrens teams.

The firms specialist in-house forensic accountancy

department tracks down hidden assets and canprovide immediate financial advice.

Marilyn Stowe is the senior partner at Stowe Family Law and one of thefirst solicitors to qualify as a family law arbitrator in England and Wales.Leading the UKs largest dedicated family law firm, she has more than 25 years experience handling divorce

cases and family law proceedings.

If you need family law advice, early support can be essential.Stowe Family Law can help.

[email protected] www.stowefamilylaw.co.uk www.marilynstowe.co.uk

Contact 020 7421 33008 Fulwood Place, Grays Inn,

London WC1V 6HG

Contact 0161 926 1410The Camellia Building, 38 Oxford Road,

Hale, Altrincham WA14 2EB

Contact 01423 532 600The Old Court House, Raglan Street,

Harrogate, North Yorkshire HG1 1LT


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She l l Jewe l l e r y f rom 100

SHELLBOUND(By Appo in tmen t )

www.she l lbound.co .uk

in fo@she l lbound. co .uk

0207 351 7778


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JUBILEE: 60 YEARS OF THESOVEREIGN AND HERSOLDIERSSPECIAL ONLINE DISPLAY

NATIONAL ARMY MUSEUMLast month, Queen Elizabeth II joins QueenVictoria as only the second British monarchever to celebrate a Diamond Jubilee. Visitthe National Army Museums website for aninteractive online exhibition celebrating 60

years of her reign and, in particular, exploredifferent aspects of the relationship between

the sovereign and her army.Royal Hospital Road, SW3; nam.ac.uk

ARTS&CULTURE

WhatsOn


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FOOD&TRAVEL

32

ELLEN VON UNWERTH:DO NOT DISTURB!21 JUNE 31 AUGUST

MICHAEL HOPPEN GALLERYPulses will race as iconic photographer Ellen von Unwerth

brings her racy photographs of femme fatales and coquettesto the Michael Hoppen Gallery. Set in the Madonna Inn, LA,

viewer becomes voyeur as models enact scenes from a seductivefantasy wild weekend. Von Unwerth has photographed major fashioncampaigns as well as album covers for Rihanna, Christina Aguileraand Janet Jackson. 3 Jubilee Place, SW3; michaelhoppengallery.com

JulyWhat to do, when to see, where togo Katie Randall picks thehottest tickets in town

INTR ANSIT FESTIVAL13 JULY 27 JULY

KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA

With over 25 arts events set to liven up thestreets of the royal borough includingillusionistic live street artwork, free running,street theatre and a wealth of free performances

it is theplace to be this month. Well see youat Worlds End Place on 13 July when the BigDance Bus is set to get the party started with aspecial double-decker routemaster, which willpull up and roll out a dance floor.rbkc.gov.uk/subsites/intransit

MY LONDON: ART & ICONS,

THEN & NOWEXHIBITED FROM 27 JULY,

SALE ON 3 SEPTEMBER

CHRISTIES SOUTH KENSINGTONChristies South Kensington puts its Olympics2012 hat on to bring us the celebratory My London:

Art & Icons, en & Now. e exhibition featuresfine paintings, watercolours and prints from the17th-century alongside 20th-century popularculture, fashion, iconic design, and much more.Regency to punk, Rowlandson to the RollingStones, London-centric art and design will go underthe hammer as the world focuses on the Big Smoke.85 Old Brompton Road, SW7; christies.com

LONDONS CALLING4 JULY UNTIL 28 JULY

PLUS ONE GALLERYAs all eyes turn to British turf thissummer, the Plus One Gallery hascurated a hyperrealist exhibitionthat celebrates British heritage and

London life. More than 20 new pieces

will be shown, depicting everythingfrom atmospheric urban landscapes of

London neighbourhoods in the RoyalBorough and iconic landmarks in the City of

Westminster to clever depictions of e Queen.89-91 Pimlico Road, SW1W; plusonegallery.com


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ARTS&CULTURE

33

TRUFFLE MAKINGMASTERCLASS7, 14 & 28 JULY

Never mind about 1066 and William theConqueror, 1087 and William the Second. Suchthings are not going to affect ones life ... but1932 and the creation of the Mars Bar and 1936for Maltesers, or 1937 and the Kit Kat - thesedates are milestones in history and should be

seared into the memory of every child in thecountry. e world according to RoaldDahl and we heartily agree. Which is

while well be joining William CurleysEbury St Truffle Making masterclassesthroughout July; williamcurley.co.uk

VINTAGE DANCE SOCIETY12 JULY

THE ROYAL ALBERT HALLDashing raconteur Fred Snow hostsan evening of music and dance straightfrom the roaring twenties, with an

eclectic mix of acts guaranteed toget you in the dancing mood andrevelling in nostalgia. Fine purveyorsof filthy swing Top Shelf Jazz deliverscrooning melodies and rakish banter;

e Filthy Rascals from Swing Patrolwill leave you breathless with theirhigh energy jazz routines, and DJ

Tim Hellzapoppin will complete theevening with his unique selection of

vintage music. Kensington Gore, SW7;royalalberthall.com

BIRTHDAY BY JOE

PENHALLUNTIL 4 AUGUSTTHE ROYAL COURT THEATRE

Lisa and Ed are having another baby.Determined to do things differently thistime, its proving a bumpy ride. e RoyalCourt eatre is renowned for bringingexciting writing talent to the fore and JoePenhall is no exception. His credits of noteinclude Blue/Orangeat the National, whichtransferred to the West End and for whichhe received the triumvirate of Olivier,Evening Standard and Critics Circle

Awards. He most recently adapted for film

e Roadby Cormac McCarthy and he alsowrote the screenplay forEnduring Love.Image Jay Brooks.Sloane Square, SW1W;royalcourttheatre.com

THINGS UNSPOKENUNTIL 13 JULY

ROYAL BRITISH SOCIETYOF SCULPTURE

A special exhibition featuring the workof two talented Edinburgh-based artists

is high up on Absolutelys to-do listthis month. Anne Bevan and AndreaRoe work across areas of human andanimal behaviour, natural history andthe environment to create beautiful

sculptures that invite you to question themeanings behind them.

108 Old Brompton Road, SW7;rbs.org.uk

Ricard Petanque Garden Party14 JULY

CHELSEA PHYSIC GARDENRicard hosts the Petanque Garden Party at theChelsea Physic Garden to celebrate BastilleDay. Guests will be invited to play Francesmost traditional sport, Petanque, a form ofboules, as well as enjoying Ricard cocktailsand a gourmet French BBQ. Well see youthere for a game of giant Jenga.66 Royal Hospital Road, SW3;chelseaphysicgarden.co.uk

BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN - THETURNING POINT12 JULY 14 JULY

PROUD CHELSEAe Boss is coming town, be still my

beating heart. As such, Proud Chelseais dedicating a whole exhibition to thedenim-clad idol shot by celebratedphotographer Lynn Goldsmith.

ese rare, personal photographs taken between 1977 and 1979

provide an intimateglance at e Bossbreakthrough years.

e show coincideswith Springsteens hotlyanticipated performanceat Hard Rock Callingon 14 July. 161 Kings

Road, Chelsea, SW3;proudonline.co.uk


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BLUE PLAQUE OF THE MONTHROBERT FALCON SCOTT, 56 OAKLEY STREET, SW3When not roaming the streets of Chelsea, Robert Falcon Scott posthumously known asScott of the Antarctic was exploring nature at its most hostile in the polar regions. e former naval officer made hisname with the 1901-04 Discovery expedition, but met his demise during the ill-fated Terra Nova South Pole mission in1912; in subsequent years, he has become a figure of controversy, held culpable by some for the fate of his party of five men

who died of extreme cold, exhaustion and starvation on the return journey, after they were pipped to the South Pole post byRoald Amundens Norwegian team.

VINTAGE GEMSShopping vintage as opposed to second hand hasgraduated over the past decade from the being thelast word in cool, practiced mainly by the achinglyhip brigade, to a mainstream mode of buying clothes.

e question always hovers over ones purchase,however, as to whether one ispaying a premium for what,15 years ago, would havebeen classified as junk. Enterthen Andrew Whittaker,the author of Secondhandand Vintage London(partof a series covering various

European cities). He hassifted Londons shops andmarkets and gives us thelowdown on where to buythe best of everything, frombooks to clothes, music tomemorabilia.8.95, Vivays

CultureFlashTHIS MONTHS HIGHLIGHTS

SISTER SISTERMark Duplass, Rosemarie DeWitt and Emily Blunt star in Your Sisters Sister, Lynn Sheltonsromantically comic tale of the complex relationship between siblings and those who enter theirworld. Duplass plays Jack, who accepts an invitation from Iris (Blunt) to stay at her familysisland cottage following the death of his brother. His stay accidentally coincides with that ofIris older sister Hannah (DeWitt), who is similarly recovering, only in her case, from breaking

up with a girlfriend of seven years. An unlikely night of passion ensues along with therepercussions of the clandestine night. Funny, engaging and endearing.In cinemas from 29 June.

WEIRD SCIENCEe scientist Stephen Emmottteams up with theatre directorKatie Mitchell to lead a ground-breaking kind of environmentallecture. Ten Billion whose title

refers to the worldspopulation, which hasdoubled in 25 years paints a tableau of a species

with its head plantedfirmly in the sand when itcomes to its impact on thenatural world.

12 18 July & 31 11 Aug;royalcourttheatre.com

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Swimsuit, 295, by Eres; necklace, 660, byAurelie Bidermann at net-a-porter.com; brass

cuffs, 205 each, and leather cuff, 220, all fromDannijo; skirt, 1,200 (as part of set) by Valentino

Haute Couture at atelier-mayer.com

Photography by Elizabeth GibsonStyling by Charlie MooreSAILON


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Turban, stylists own;swimsuit by La Perla,402; tux jacket, 1,350,by Billionaire ItalianCouture; earrings, 45,by Pebble; cuff, 345, byPhillipe Audibert atnet-a-porter.com; ring,279, by Yves SaintLaurent at Harrods


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Swimsuit, 162, byMelissa Odabash; silk

shirt, 395, by Vanessa G;earrings, 68, by Butler& Wilson; bangles, 60,

each, by Pebble


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Silk dress, 3,978, by GeorgiaHarding at Wolf and Badger; cuffs

on left arm, 60 each, by Pebble;brass circular ring, 55, and twisted

ring, 75, both Pebble; top cuff,55, by Pebble; brass cuff by

Dannijo; brass ring, 12.50, byFreedom at Topshop; cream stone,

359, by Yves Saint Laurent atHarrods; earrings, 45, by Pebble


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Kaftan, 460, and bikiniworn underneath, 206,both by La Perla; earringsas before; top cuff, 650,by Joubi.co.uk; cuff, 165,by Alice Menter


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CREDITSModel: Boglarka at Storm

Hair stylist: James Langanusing LOreal Techni Art

Make-up: Amanda Wrightusing Lancme and Alpha H

Turban, stylists own;earrings as before;

swimsuit, 215, by Gucci;cuffs on right arm, from

165, by Alice Menter,cuff on left arm, 345, by

Phillipe Audibert atnet-a-porter.com


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Barbara Hulanickicarved out iconicstatus in the 1960s asthe woman behindBiba. Now she turnsher hand to fireplacesin a collaboration

with Chesneys.Nancy Alsop meetsone very charmingtrailblazer


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B

arbara Hulanicki is nothing if not

instantly identifiable in a crowd.

e deep tan, the blonde bobbed

barnet, the rarely removed dark

glasses she cuts a conspicuously chic

figure. All of which makes a certain sense,

given that as the woman who conceived of

Biba along with Mary Quants mini-

skirts and the master cutter Ossie Clarks

ethereally romantic frocks, the defining

icon of sixties fashion one expects her

to radiate transcending cool. What is less

predictable, though, is the total absence of

the oft-attendant brittle hauteur associated

with the fashion elite. Hulanicki is nothingif not warm, natural and, above all, giggly.

As one of this years recipients of an OBE,

she talks not only of being thrilled and proud

(especially for my father and the Polish

contingent) but also of how comic the whole

experience was. Prince Charles, bestower of

her Order of the British Empire? Terribly

funny. e staff at Buckingham Palace?

All hilarious.

But then what is instantly clear is that

about Hulanicki, there is little of the

precious. We are here to talk about the twofireplaces she has designed for Chesneys

(more of which later) but firstly I venture,

apologetically and pre-empting her fatigue

at talking about it, the obligatory question

about the legacy of Biba. Cue more giggles.

is is why I live in America! No one knows

what Biba is. ey all pronounce it Byba, she

hoots. But it is nice to come back to England

and to have people remember it fondly. She

is, she tells me, still amazed at the force of

nostalgia that continues to surround the

shop, whose label still exists, but no longer

with any input from Hulanicki. I have totell you, when we were running the shop,

we had no idea how popular it was because

we had nothing but complaints! I remember

a woman approaching me in Knightsbridge

when the shop had just closed, saying: But

what are we going to do now? It was the first

time we really knew anyone actually liked

what we did. Now, its really nice being in

England because people are so nostalgic, its

lovely. I think it has to do with the last war

and how people came together she muses,

recalling: I remember when I first moved tohere, we couldnt believe it. You were allowed

one egg and two ounces of cheese a week.

Can you imagine? You could devour that

before breakfast!

STYLE

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Nouveau watercolours. Does that period then,

I wonder, hold a dual resonance for her? Oh

yes. But the funny thing was that my mother who was quite a bit younger than my father

said that while growing up, his family used to

laugh at him, because they seemed so modern.

Its strange to think. Does she still have any of

his work? No, I have lost them all, which is so

sad, because they really were so beautiful. But

when youve been around as long as me, you

have to be careful not to become like Steptoe

things can get rather cluttered! Of course

now, you can at least photograph things and

store them that is, if you dont mess up your

computer. I am hopeless!

It is easy to imagine that given her life

lived so fully much clutter could have

accumulated. Far from having faded in to

obscurity after the closure of Biba, she moved

at the tailend of the 1980s to Miami,

commissioned by Ronnie Wood to restore a

dilapidated building in a wonderful, derelictArt Deco area. He told me it would take six

months which turned into two years

which turned into twenty! After that she

acquired another high profile client, in the

ese days Hulanicki lives in Miami

Beach, but continues to make her monthly

trip to London to keep her eye on the myriadof projects which bear her name, amongst

them collaborations with TopShop, George

at Asda and TK Maxx, bearing out her long-

time championing of the democratisation of

luxury. Does she enjoy, I wonder aloud, her

latter day role as design fairy godmother, as

opposed to running the whole show? Oh

god yes! In fact the problem was never the

running of the shop, it was the manufacturing

side. But my husband [with whom Hulanicki

ran Biba] loved it, so he did

all that. Ive always let other

people take care of that side ofthings.

Today she is cast in the

role of fireplace designer

for the luxury brand Chesneys. Her

contributions? e unambiguously titled and

the unambiguously beautiful Art Deco and

the Art Nouveau. What is it, I ask, that she

find so compelling in both movements? Both

periods are so strong however you translate

them. Everything is so hard now, so its

appealing to look back at these more romantic

aesthetics. Originally a fashion illustrator forthe likes of Vogue and Womens Wear Daily,

Hulanicki inherited at least in part some of

her prodigious talent from her father, who,

as a child, she would watch producing Art

form of Chris Blackwell of Island Records,

who bought 10 buildings on the sea front

for Hulanicki to work her magic on andfor which she even scooped an American

Institute of Architects award. Yes, she laughs,

but the Preservation Society banned me!

Chris said to me: I know its Art Deco but I

want Jamaican colours! So thats what I did!

About America, she is effusive in almost

every regard but when it comes to fashion

her heart remains staunchly on this side

of the pond. Here people are individual

and eccentric and they are not frightened

what people think. One

example is Ascot. I couldnt

stop laughing at the papersyesterday, and all the wacky

hats and I thought they were

now supposed to go through

a vetting system if the hats were stupid! Its so

brilliant! In America, people wouldnt dare. I

have 30-year-olds in my office who say: Are

you really going to do that? But everything is

going in this direction. I say: We makethe

direction! I love people like Helena Bonham

Carter. She is wonderful. America is in the

box when it comes to fashion, and England is

definitely out of the box. e latter of whichcould neatly apply to Barbara Hulanicki, truly

one of the nicest women in fashion.

barbarahulanickidesign.com; chesneys.co.uk

In America no one knows whatBiba is. They all call it Byba

PREVIOUS PAGE: BARBARA HULANICKISITTING BY HER ART DECO FIREPLACE; THISPAGE: HULANICKI WITH PAUL CHESNEYRECLINING BY HER ART DECO DESIGN

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LondonCalling

From Lyons Corner Housesto punk culture, Tate Britainslatest photographic exhibitionlooks at life in the capitalfrom 1930 to 1980

HAMPSTEAD HEATH FAIR

WOLFGANG SUSCHITZKY

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QUEENS GUARDMARCHING, 1960, BRUCE DAVIDSON

PORTOBELLO ROAD, 1974, AL VANDENBERG

UNTITLED, 1961, LUTZ DILLE


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B

owler hats to Mohawk barnets,

beggars and buskers to red

buses; as the capital dons its

Olympian hat, Tate Britain putsthe spotlight firmly on city life from 1930

to 1980. Another London captures the

streetscape in that formative half century,

bringing together photographic social

documentation from the iconic likes of

Robert Frank, Henri Cartier-Bresson and

Eve Arnold to lesser-known but no less

fascinating talents. Shot all around the city,

the thematic link between all the images?

e personalities that radiate through the

pictures from the gathered crowds at

George Vs coronation to the Portobellostall vendors, the urban poor to the punks

who owned the streets in the 1970s.

Another London runs from 27 July 16 Sept;

tickets cost 10, book via tate.org.uk

LYONS CORNER HOUSE,TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD, WOLFGANG SUSCHITSKY

QUEENS SILVER JUBILEE,1977, ROBERT FRANCK

PICCADILLY, LONDON 1955, HANNES KILLIAN

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CandidcameraAlison Jacksons paparazziimages revealing lookalikeA-listers at intimate momentsask questions about our strangefascination with celebrity.Henry Barlow meets the womanbehind the pictures


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As I approach artist and

filmmaker Alison Jacksons

Soho gallery, I feel faintly

terrified. Her enviable

reputation as the brains behind the

brilliant BAFTA-winning TV series

Double Takeand countless carefully posed

photographs that appear to show the real

story of celebrity lives behind closed doorspreceded her, but I had heard whispers

that along with her ta lent and success

came a reputation for not suffering fools

gladly. Although I try not to think of

myself as foolish, Jacksons satirical thrust

is often aimed at journalisms lazier areas

(her website is a dead-on parody of the

increasingly tacky Daily Mail sidebar) and

a 20-minute wait, even while her assistants

assured me Alison will be here any second,

did little to assuage my fears.

Eventually Jackson appears, acommanding figure in dominatrix-style

black with imposing sunglasses. Within

seconds, shed checked the rushes for her

new TV pilot, barked out orders to some

factotum (Hes supposed to be an editor,

so he should edit!) and sent me downstairs

to look at some more of her witty images,

which appeared to show Mick Jagger

getting a collagen injection in his lips and

an already notorious picture of Tony Blair

giving George Bush a lift onto his horse,

by offering him his back.

After a few moments, Jackson reappears,and suggests that we go next door to

a caf. As we leave, her demeanour

changes. Shes still fiercely engaged and

intellectually vital company, but I start

to feel less like an errant schoolboy in

the presence of the headmistress. Weve

met, at least in part, to discuss Jacksons

new role as one of the judges on a major

photography competition, the FOTO8

Summershow. e idea behind this is to

encourage anyone, whether an amateur

with an iPhone or a professional withtop-of-the-range equipment, to enter; the

only criteria is that the image has to be

something truly special and appealing.

Asked what shes looking for, Jackson

OBAMA CAUGHT SMOKING

WILLS AND A BE-CROWNED

KATE CANOODLING

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image is constructed, and whether someone

without formal training is capable of it.

Ive seen great images taken on the fly, and

some of the glossy, expensive stuff in the

magazines looks very cheap and garish in

comparison to it.

Jacksons recent exhibition, Jubilee,

offered a timely series of images of the

Royal Family in apparently compromising

positions, whether its Prince Phil iplooking attentively at naked photographs

of Marilyn Monroe or Prince William

and Kate Middleton doing the conga

at their wedding. e pictures show her

responds: Im fascinated by the way

images are constructed within the frame,

whether youre professional or untrained,

and how pictures engage the viewer. I

love the idea that anyone can take part,

and Im fascinated by how good they can

be. Someone can take a

great photo with a phone

now, and in fact Ive just

filmed my new TV serieson an iPad. Ive spent

my own career trying

to make my photos look

like snatched paparazzi

pictures caught on an

iPhone, and the easiest

way to do so is to use

an iPhone, rather than

spending a fortune on digital editing.

For all the democratic basis of the

competition, Jackson is brisk about what

she perceives to be the English attitude thatanyone can take a photograph and that its

not really a skill. Its not true. Of course

basic technical competence is now more

of a given, but Im interested in how an

usual keen eye for a witty juxtaposition,

as well as some strangely poignant images

of e Queen passing the betting shop,

corgis in hand. When asked whether

shes a royalist, Jackson pauses and smiles,

saying: I think that the royals have been

tremendously good for

business. e Jubilee

show was a comment

on the royal family overthe past decade, and

what Ive tried to do was

offer a Hogarthian eye

on the strangeness and

lavishness of it all. Were

passionate about them as

a family, whether we love

or hate them, and they

are great figureheads, with e Queen as a

superb role model for women.

Of course, Jacksons interest is in the

strange, twisted world of celebrity and thosewho inhabit it, and she has some superb

anecdotes, especially about when shes

approached random strangers and offered

sometimes unflattering comparisons.

I once went up to a familiar-looking man and said: Excuse me,

you look just like Nicolas Cage.Unfortunately, it was Nicolas Cage,

and he wasnt very pleased with me

TIGER WOODS ENTERTAINSHIS SEMI-CLAD COMPANIONS

GORDON RAMSAY GETS MARKEDUP PRE THE SURGEONS KNIFE

BRANGELINA BROWSE POTENTIAL NEWADDITIONS TO THEIR EVER-GROWING BROOD


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(I once went up to a familiar-looking man

and said: Excuse me, you look just like

Nicolas Cage. Unfortunately, it was Nicolas

Cage, and he wasnt very pleased with

me.) While her own high public profile

means that she is no stranger to first nights

and red carpets, she is able to maintain a

sense of distance from its excesses. What

I dont understand is why people want to

look at photographs of the famous notdoing anything. She suggests that it was

Diana who began the vogue for individuals

selling huge quantities of newspapers and

magazines, and indeed her degree show

at RCA, which made her name, featured

notorious mocked-up pictures of Diana,

Dodi and their fictitious child together.

Jacksons about to make her directorial

film debut imminently, which she is tight-

lipped about, except to confirm that it will be

shot in a mock-documentary style. However,

shes pessimistic about the world of cinema,saying: People are less interested in craft,

meaning that anyone can be an actress now.

She soon warms to her theme. Fame isnt

earned through talent any more, its awarded

arbitrarily, so we end up with people like

Katie Price. But we want them to suffer, and

to diet, and to leap through hoops. We get

bad actors as politicians too, like Tony Blair.

He had to try hard to seem sincere, and it

never quite convinced. Cameron hasnt yet

had the treatment but Ive just found a

great lookalike, so watch this space.

Over the course of an hour or so, Jackson

proves to be witty and both interested andinteresting, belying her self-deprecating

comment that I dont consider myself a

humorous person. Asked what shes up

to next, she sighs and comes out with

a staggering list of commissions and

collaborations for major companies, the likes

of which would make most ordinary mortals

quake in fear. How long will this take, I

wonder aloud. Five years? Ten?

All will be done by this time next year.

And then Ill do it all over again. As she says

this, Im sure that theres just the tiniest glintof a mischief-makers glee visible underneath

her calm, professional and polished exterior.

alisonjackson.com

FOTO8

Photographic exhibitionsummershow

Alison Jackson is one of five judges

at this years FOTO8 competition,which lauds the photographic andcompositional skills of amateurs and

professionals alike, using anything fromstate-of-the-art equipment to camera

phones. The exhibition opens on 6 Julyand continues until 18 August.

For more details visit foto8.com

SIMON COWELL GETS THE WAX FACTOR

A-LISTERS JOIN THE CONGA

AT THE ROYAL WEDDING

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CULTURE

56


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1KAFFIR LIME

REINVIGORATINGRITUAL AT USHVANIFor an invigorating yet indulgent

way to prep the skin for beach, look nofurther than this new scrub ritual , whichharnesses the power of th is most bitterAsian fruit to slough away dead sk in cel ls.Kaffir lime is traditionally used in herbalremedies to aid digestion but Ushvaniuses its body benefits topically. After a ful lconsultation, my therapist scrubs my tiredskin, bringing it slowly back to life. I thenuse a traditional Coconut Milk Mandi (akinto a large lad le) in a rainforest shower to

lather on warm moisturising coconut milk.What fol lowed? Just the best deep t issuemassage Ive ever had, focusing on my back,stomach and feet. I emereged so relaxed Ibarely need the beach Ushvani, 1 CadoganGardens, Knightsbridge, SW3; ushvani.com

2FLAMENCO AT DANCE ATTICWe cant get enough of DanceAttics Monday evening Flamencoclasses if only as a legitimate

excuse to stamp our feet after a stressfulday. ey also happen to be an excellent

way of gett ing the blood pumping and thustoning up for the beach. It helps that theyhelp us to channel our inner senorita via thethrowing of seriously sultry shapes. Ol!368 North End Road, SW6; danceattic.com

3MANI-PEDI AT CHELSEA DAY SPASashaying down the Kings Roadwith freshly painted nails equatesto one of those rare moments of

polish when we can actually relate to CarrieBradshaw (minus the vertiginous heelsand laundry l ist of dashing men were aptto bump in to). Refine your look with an

appositely named New York mani-pedi atChelsea Day Spa. After having had mycuticles prepped, and dry skin banished, thecolour was applied with expert precision.Ten days on, there was not a chip in sight,making it an excellent pre-holiday option.69a Kings Road, SW3; thechelseadayspa.co.uk

4WAX AT STRIP

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley,Sienna Miller and La Beckhamare all fans of Strip and so are

we. Its cool, its painless and, best of all,

its quick. With themed treatment roomscomplete with plasma TVs, Lycon wax is theweapon of choice and an excellent choice too,with hair breakages, ingrown hairs, rednessand sting all thrown out the window.102 Fulham Road, SW3; stripwaxbar.com

10HOLIDAYREADY

Waysto get

BEACHBODYCOUNTDOWN

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Contact No:

020 7581 9754

020 8127 6281

Opening Hours: Monday - Saturday

7am-9pm / Sunday 12am - 5pm

(Sundays -By Appointment Only)

16 Beauchamp Place,

Knightsbridge

London SW3 1NQ

HAIR&BEAUTY HAVEN

GEORGE VALLOSSIAN


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5RAW FAIRIES DETOX DIETis meal delivery service is onlyfor the committed. Gourmet rawfood chef Anya Ladra creates a daily

menu using special processes such as soaking,sprouting and dehydrating. e taste is,admittedly, an acquired one but the meals are

surprisingly filling and the results incredible.From 22.50 a day; rawfairies.com

6THREADING

AT BLINK

BROW BARAs a plucking

pro, threading was a naturalnext step. And so to theBlink spa, at the back of theBluebird shop. reading,it transpires, is not painless.However, using this Indiantechnique, the beautician

shaped the cleanest linesmy brows have ever seen.Enough to make us gamefor a little pain? Definitely.Bluebird, Kings Road, SW3;blinkbrowbar.com

7FAT GIRL SLIM AT BLISSWhen it comes to pre-holidaygrooming, this super slick boltholeis nailing it. A one-stop shop for all

things body beautifying, its cellulites mostfeared enemy. Plump for the FatGirlSlimtreatment a detoxifying circulation-stimulating godsend which pummels awayany wobbly bits. Beginning with dry brushing,a firming grapefruit essential oil is thenapplied before the body is whipped into shape

by a seaweed task mask, a heated wrap, andfinally a rubdown with the waist-whittlingLove Handler. And the best bit? e mouth-watering chocolate brownies in the lounge totally bad for you, but a total must.60 Sloane Avenue, SW3; blissworld.co.uk

8HIGHLIGHTS

AT NEVILLEWhat good isa tan without

golden highlights with

which to set it off? To thisend, I took my chlorine-infused, shamefullytwo-tone hair to thedelicious surrounds ofNeville, and submittedto the expert attentionsof top hair colourist

Shelley, charged with the onerous task ofimparting to my head the timely Olympicfive rings of colour. Cue slight panic (therehad been mention of the word silver) butShelley reassures that with my naturally

darker complexion, wed be swerving moretowards warmer tones. is is the beautyof Neville; everything is tailored exactlyto the needs of each clients hair whichis why they do so roaringly successfullywith repeat (and often celebrity) business. Iemerge with a halo of highlights which areperfectly placed and brilliantly natural-looking. Now for the tan... 5 Pont Street,SW1X; nevillehairandbeauty.net

9SPRAY TAN AT GEORGE

VALLOSSIANe debate ever rages on to tanor not to tan? Rather than achieve

a golden glow via exposure to harsh UVA

and UVB rays, instead pop down to GeorgeVallossian, a charming salon on BeauchampPlace for the perfect spray tan. e team oftherapists are so welcoming that any qualmsmelt at the door. 16 Beauchamp Place, SW3;

georgevallossian.com

10BIOEFFECT FACIAL AT

HUSHH SPAWhen it comes topampering, Hushh Spa

has it down to a fine art, with lashingsof awards to prove it. Its a hidden gem,

which quietly sings success from therooftops, and rightly so.Try the BioEffect Facia l exclusively

designed for the spa which uses the mostadvanced products in skincare science.An aqua erasure machine exfoliates theskin leaving it super smooth before a verythorough extraction, shoulder massage andgel mask follows. Excellent.44 Pimlico Road, SW1; hushhspas.com

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ABSOLUTELY

PROMOTION

SteppingoutFirst Steps is the go-to place for childrens

dance and drama

17 20 July: Junior drama course.25 July: The Nutcrackerfor ages 4 10yrs. Learn scenes from theballet, dress up with a little make-up, and dance on the stage.25 July: Diva Dance for ages 5 11yrs. Dance routines by favouritepop acts.26 July: Strictly Ballroom for ages 6 12yrs. No experiencenecessary. Learn to Waltz and Tango the fun way.26 July: Backing dancer choreography for ages 6 12yrs. Dance withyour friends in groups and perform on stage.27 July: Pointe work for older girls who have started with thetechnique but need help and encouragement to get stronger.27 July: Audition technique for 12yrs-plus. Help with choosingclothes, make-up and hair, as well as picking music and learning howto perform your dances or songs.30 July 3 August: Matilda. Children will learn to perform the latestpopular musical and will then showcase it on the Friday afternoon.From 9.30am 3.30pm.

For prices and more information email [email protected]

First Steps excellent range ofdance and drama classes to

suit all ages and abilties meanstheres no need for kids to bebored this summer...

DANCE DATES FOR THE DIARY

First Steps Academy Fulham was

established in 1993 by CamillaHitchcock (LRAD ARAD). eschool plays a large role in the

Fulham community, with 500 girls and boysattending each week. e school believes

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that it brings with it, and as such it helpschildren both with deportment and withconfidence simultaneously. e school hasa 100 per cent pass rate in all dance examsand specialises in classical ballet, tap, dance,

street dance, musical theatre and drama.First Steps is, above al l, a happy place where

children make friends and enjoy sucesss.First Steps Academy of Dance,

234 Lillie Rd, Fulham, SW6 7QA;020 7381 5224;

[email protected]


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Last months terrible weather has made

many of us who were planning to

spend the summer in the UK look for

a last-minute holiday fix. ough that

means no time to hone the perfect body for

the beach, it certainly isnt too late to get into

great shape for your return.

e beach is a fantastic place to work out

(ever wondered why lifeguards look so fit?).

Sands natural instability forces the muscles of

the spine, hips, legs and ankles to work a lot

harder than they would doing the equivalentexercise on grass or hard surfaces. e more

muscles work, the more calories are burned

and because sand is soft, theres less impact on

the joints, which reduces the chance of injury.

Taking a brisk walk or run on firm sand

is a great, low impact way to work the whole

body and to get beautifully soft feet too. As

you get fitter, try softer sand. Alternatively,

wade into the water up to just above the knee

height and walk with a wide stride, superb for

toning all the leg muscles and involving your

abs. Swing your arms for extra momentum.Swimming in the sea is even more beneficial

than laps in the pool not only do waves

provide a greater challenge for the muscles but

sea water is a natural exfoliant and detoxifier.

Back on the beach: why not gather up

fellow holiday makers for some ball games?

Beach football, touch rugby or cricket are

fun ways to strengthen the lower body

whilst tennis, badminton or volley ball will

enhance your balance and upper body tone.

ese games improve cardiovascular fitness

and the twisting movements as you play

will do more for your abs than endless sit-

ups and so much less tediously too.

If you really want to make your beach

into a gym, try the following circuit: warmup doing some lying down static stretches

for your hamstrings and quads followed

by jogging for 3-5 minutes; perform 12

squats, followed by a 20m sprint, 10-20

press ups (from the knees for beginners)

and 10-40 reverse abdominal crunches

(keeping your belly button pulled in)

followed by 10 side bridges holding for

between 2-10 seconds; complete the circuit

with a short 10-20m swim in the sea. Rest

for a few minutes and repeat the circuit

two to four times. Finish off with lyingand sitting stretches.

To book a fitness session with Carole Caplin

visit coolhealth.co.uk or bowskillclinic.com

BeautifulDont fret about getting the perfect pre-beach body, get

a body on the beach, advises fitness guru Carole Caplin

Top tips Gradually build your activity level up.Dont go out on day one for a 2km runif you are used to sitting on an exercise

bike for 20 minutes once a week.

Drink plenty of water to maintainhydration throughout and keep yourhead covered, even if your skin has

acclimatised to the sun. Perform anystatic exercises in the shade.

Stretch before and after youractivities in order to avoid the musclesshortening. Muscles can progressively

shorten due to increased levels ofactivity.

Always swim or perform wateractivities in sight of a lifeguard,

regardless of how proficient you are inthe water.

Dry skin brush daily before a shower/bath to stimulate circulation and bowelsfollowed by applying Clarins Anti-Eaubody oil to disperse water retention.

Your appetite naturally lessens inthe sun. Take advantage and eat

light: plenty of fish, chicken, saladsand vegetables, with a piece of fruit

between meals. Try and stay away fromthe confectionary area of the breakfastbuffet. They usually do a mean menuof egg dishes abroad which will work

particularly well with exercise.

And finally, the extra hit of oxygen

from constantly being outdoorsalongside the increased sunlight-

induced vitamin D, exercise and seawater will encourage your whole systemto relax so dont resist the need to fall

in and out of sleep throughout the day.

IMAGE

:JOHNSWANNELL

Beach body

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multi-foldtimber doors

Come and visit us at the showroom:

406 Merton Road, London SW18 5AD

Telephone 0208 877 8920

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65/14865

DESIGNIAN DUN NIan Dunn Woodwork & Design is a London-based bespokecabinet-making company with over 30 years of experienceunder its belt. e team of skilled craftsmen collaborates with

designers and architects to provide a fully tailor-made service.Were particularly taken with this striking red kitchen,comprised of Formica-faced handless oak cabinets, integratedappliances and even a mirrored sliding store cupboard. Itscertainly one way to make a bold design statement. To find outmore visit iandunn.com; 020 8613 1781

INTERIORS

RETAILER OFTHE MONTHLAPICIDA

Natural stone specialist Lapicidahas just opened its sumptuousnew flagship showroom on theprestigious Kings Road. Witha theatrical lighting schemecourtesy of Chelsea-based JohnCullen Lighting, what was oncean industrial space has beentransformed into a luxurious5,000-sqft environment comprisedcompletely of stone; the walls, floor,ceiling, cladding and even one-offartworks. 533 Kings Road, SW10;lapicida.com

CASE STUDYPAPER PROJECTSKYLIGHT

e owners of this beautiful home inBelgravia wanted to replace an existingglass lantern skylight over the basementliving room with one that could be usedas an ad-hoc terrace. e solution, devisedby SW-based Paper Project Architecture& Design studio, was a deceptivelysimple one thats visually appealing and

conspicuous. Comprised of a single pieceof walk-on glass with a stainless steelperimeter gutter, the playful shape invitesguests onto this surprise outdoor space andfloods the basement with natural light.

paperproject.co.uk

InteriorInspirations

DESIGNPULPO LOLLTABLEIgnore the distractinglysilly name and focus onthe extraordinary curvesof this fabulous side table,reminiscent of the armsof Aaltos iconic sofas andchairs. Crafted by Berlin-based design trio e27, the

LOLL table, inspired bythe notion of stretchingmetal from 2D into 3D, hasrecently won the InteriorInnovation Award 2012.

163; pulpoproducts.com

Gemma Billingtonhas her eye onarchitectural lines, plus a ratherimpressive basement skylight


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THE LIBRARYBooks have long since represented one of my greatest passions and

greatest pleasures in life; collecting 17th-, 18th- and 19th-century

tomes really gets me going. So when I was asked, therefore, to

take on an exciting project to design an entire library for a house

in Eaton Square, the books themselves made for the most natural

and fitting starting point. In fact, the extraordinary and extensive

collection I was working with astonishingly only made up part of a

much larger compendium which belonged to my clients father in

the US a nice story, I thought, for something which represented

so much history already. My idea was to place mirrors behind each

column and this really helped bounce the light back around theroom, but ultimately made the space look much bigger. It worked

beautifully. e entire library is made in beautiful English walnut,

which took seven months to make and one week to fit with exact

precision.

InteriorLife

Designer Tim Goslings room-by-roomstyle guide to creating the ideal home

THE ENTRANCE HALLMaking an entrance is crucial. I believe its one of the most

important things you can create and design in a house; after all,

it sets the tone in much the same way an orchestra does as it

strikes up before the curtain rises ahead of a musical or a play. In

this particular example, Ive achieved the entrance effect with a

stunning rosewood console table with bone inlay and silver leaf

glass. It beautifully helps bounce light off its back which also

cleverly helps it continue the motif from the floor beneath.

THE SITTING ROOM

e low table is the drawing rooms biggest issue; its the elephantin the room. ankfully, however, weve moved on from the days

of the prevalent poorly-made ethnic centre piece and were seeing a

move towards a collectors cabinet where one can store bo

absolutely chelsea 07 2012

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