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DESTINATION

Adventuresin ArgentinaAdventures

in ArgentinaThe capital city of Argentina on the shores of the country’s

principle Rio de Plata the river of silver offers sparkle to visiting superyachts

by Frances and Michael Howorth

The capital city of Argentina on the shores of the country’s

principle Rio de Plata the river of silver offers sparkle to visiting superyachts

by Frances and Michael Howorth

Discover Buenos AiresDiscover Buenos Aires

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DESTINATION

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Quite why Buenos Aires, the capital city ofArgentina, remains a backwater in supery-acht destination terms is somewhat of a mys-tery. Those that do are attracted by thechallenge of rounding Cape Horn and enjoy-ing wilderness of the Magellan Straits andTierra del Fuego. Yet Buenos Aires–oftencalled the Paris of Latin America– has every-thing it takes to become a serious contenderin the superyacht destination stakes, yet fewyachts have made the journey. The resorts inthe Rio de la Plata estuary, where most yacht-ing facilities are concentrated, are far moreaccessible than rumors might suggest andthough the river estuary has a silting prob-lem, never the less it continues to provide ac-cess to large commercial ships. The use ofpilotage is certainly recommended for deepdrafted superyachts that draw more than 13’7”, and in certain areas it is mandatory.

QColorful, vibrant and possessingof a distinct culture- with a littlecareful planning Buenos Airesshould be on the passage plan forevery yacht cruising SouthAmerica's eastern seaboard.

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During our recent fact finding mission wefound the Porteños, the name natives ofBuenos Aires have given themselves, arehappy go lucky and very welcoming. Thecity has acres of renovated docklands rich inrestaurants and nightlife, along with some ofthe most magnificent hotels, and there reallyis no reason why large yachts should notvisit. The myth that the river is too shallowto accommodate them is shot away whenyou recall that these docks were once linedwith passenger and cargo carryingfreighters that hauled refrigerated beef toEurope and the USA. It was also the port theill-fated pocket battleship the Graf Spee tooksanctuary in and it was the ensuing sea bat-tle off the coast that made the river famousaround the world. The rewards for visiting yachts are immenseand varied. The city is one of vibrant culture.Tango, the dance of love is all pervadingwith the city’s dance halls–called Milongas–filled to capacity with aficionados and fanat-ical wannabees tapping their feet to theSouth American beat. Soccer stadiums of

gargantuan size are filled each week withfrenzied souls who watch some of the world’smasters play on local turf. Shops are filledwith exquisite leather and stunning silver ar-tifacts, while museums and art gallerieshouse spectacular collections. The city’s fa-mous Theatro Colon opera house is just oneof the many stunningly beautiful buildingsthat line streets where taxis fearlessly criss-cross each other on the 9-lane highways thattraverse the Capital. Buenos Aires claims tohave one of the widest city center streets inthe world. Called 9 de Julio (9th July) afterArgentina’s Independence Day, it is so widethat it is seldom possible to get across it inone attempt without stopping.

CAPTAINS TAKE NOTEWhen planning one’s passage and ahead ofarriving it is well worth being aware of someof the more draconian and officious implica-tions of cruising Argentinian waters, but ifprocedures are followed then the rewards areinnumerable. Though Argentina’s longcoastline between the Rio de la Plata and the

Straits of Magellan offers little shelter andfew ports or facilities, a notable exception isMar del Plata, which has a thriving sailingcommunity and facilities to match. Investi-gations by customs keen to look over a su-peryacht in the hope of finding possibleinfractions can be an issue. Ships agents whoknow how to deal with such matters shouldtherefore be employed and retaining theirservices seems to avoid many of the potentialproblems. Masters of superyachts cruising inthe waters of Argentina must also check-inon a daily basis with the Coastguard, using apre-agreed method such as e-mail, sat-phone,SSB or VHF frequency.Masters we spoke to highlighted that it is ad-visable to maintain a written log in which torecord all attempts to call the authorities.This may avoid a vessel being detained andpossible fines by the coastguard on arrival ata destination. Also, all vessels intending tosail between Argentina and the British terri-tories of the Falkland Islands, South Georgiaand South Orkneys, must apply for and ob-tain written permission from the Argentine

Argentina's love of music often spills out of the Milonga music halls and onto the street.Impromptu performances and street entertainers create a joyfully ubiquitous soundtrack to everyday life.

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Many labor under the misconception the River Plate is too shallowfor navigation: the extent of commercial container ship activity and a good pilot prove otherwise.

government, or risk a fine $7,000 (USD) uponarrival back in Argentina. Force Majeure can-not be used as an excuse for failing to followthis procedure. Yachts leaving the British de-pendencies bound for Argentina are also ad-vised to ensure their paperwork is perfectlyin order before arriving: detention or forfei-ture of the yacht is a very real possibility forthose who do not comply. As a last word onthe ‘do’s and don’ts’ before we get down tothe bountiful enjoyable aspects of the city, se-curity in the port of Buenos Aires can be anissue on occasion, so a 24-hour gangwaywatches is a sensible precaution.

HUB PORTEÑOIn search of the local character that makes BAsuch a cosmopolitan city, and at the sametime, what distinguishes her as one of theworld’s most beautiful cities, we sought outone of the most exclusive of boutique hotelsin which to spend our first night : HubPorteño. Located in Recoleta, an upmarketaristocratic neighborhood the hotel is the

most wonderful, welcoming, eclectic and com-fortable of accommodations. Its architectureand interior design creates a space with astrong local identity, drawing on tradition andcontemporary elegance. The generous roomsinclude decoration and furniture crafted fromthe country’s most sophisticated raw materi-als; leather and rare hardwoods to Andean tex-tiles, animal skins and hand-carved metal.

THE FOUR SEASONS BUENOS AIRESIf you seek to discover the city and enjoy theamenities of a larger hotel then trust us andstay at the Four Seasons, also in the Recoletadistrict. Offering a warm welcome and anoasis of cultured luxury in the heart of thebustling metropolis, the hotel is comprised ofof two rather distinct parts. The first–La Mai-son– is a Beaux Arts landmark and one of Ar-gentina’s finest buildings. Standing behindthe hotel it the building affords a rare oppor-tunity to inhabit a historic Buenos Aires lovestory. This masterpiece was a wedding giftfrom Felix de Alzaga Unzue for his young

From exclusiveboutique hotels

bursting withlocal character to

international 5-starchains like theFour Seasons,

BA's visitors arewell-catered for.

bride, Elena Pena Unzue. Importing materialsby sea at the height of the First World Warwas a significant challenge and expense.Nevertheless, the completed residence wasrevealed in 1920 in all its glory–includingpriceless stuccos and Italian marbles. Nowfurther enhanced after a change of ownershipand an ambitious multimillion-dollar restora-tion, today La Mansion features seven suites,spacious reception lounges, a spa and aheated outdoor pool. The Hotel also includesthe modern Tower with its 158 rooms andsuites, innovative new restaurants, bars,beautiful new lobby, event spaces, and anaward-winning Spa.

One doesn't have to wander farfrom the recently redevelopeddocklands of Puerto Madero todiscover the delightful sights,sounds and smells of Buenos Aires.

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A GRAVE SITUATIONLike any capital city Buenos Aires offersmuch to do from shopping to sightseeing.One highlight, within a short and easy walkfrom the hotel, might be considered a bitmorbid: the Recoleta Cemetery. But it is in-finitely worth a visit and is justifiably in theworld’s Top Ten most beautiful of cemeter-ies. Inaugurated on 17 November 1822, thefirst two burials were of a black freed slave,Juan Benito, and a young lady called MariaDolores Maciel. Today it is one the most rel-evant historical and artistic monuments inthe country. Guides can be hired but we pur-chased a map and catalogue for just 15 pesosand found that and the engaging and multilingual Florencia Nuñez gave us plenty of in-formation. The site, comprised of 54,843 square meters,has 4,800 truly amazing, varied and spectac-ular vaults. Its front portico in Greek Doricstyle was finished during one of the majorsreforms requested in 1881 by the then presi-dent of the City Council, Torcuato de Alvear.From that moment, there followed all the log-

ical alterations for an active necropolis and,as time passed by, it has been architecturallyenhanced until it became a major expressionof funeral architecture worldwide. Many rel-evant players of Argentinian history resthere, among them politicians, military men,statesmen, explorers, priest, leaders, writersand poets. One major draw is the tomb ofMaría Eva Duarte de Perón the second wifeof Argentine President Juan Perón (1895–1974). Evita, as she is known worldwide, whodied from cancer at the age of 33 on 26th July1952 and is buried in the relatively modestDuarte family plot.

LA BOCAFor sheer exuberance and an affirmation oflife a visit to the vibrant and colorful La Bocaarea is a must. It is but a short taxi ride awayfrom our beautiful suite in Recoleta. Thisneighborhood, or barrio, in the south east ofthe capital has retained a strong sense of itsEuropean heritage, courtesy of the early set-tlers from Genoa, Italy who made it theirhome. The conventional explanation that it

"La Boca maintainsa strong senseof its European

heritage, instilledby the early

settlers fromGenoa, Italy..."

One doesn't have to posses a morbid fascination to appreciate a tour ofthe Recoleta Cemetery, listed amongst the world's ten most beautiful.

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was named after the mouth (‘boca’ in Span-ish) of the Riachuelo is contested by thosefrom Genoa, who claim it was named by themafter the Genoese neighborhood of Boc-cadasse (or Bocadaze in Genoese dialect).In 1882 La Boca actually seceded from Ar-gentina, with rebels raising the Genoese flag,but the rebellion was quickly put down withthe flag torn from its pole personally by thethen President Julio Argentino Roca. TodayBoca is best known for being the home of thefamous football club Boca Juniors and as apopular destination for tourists visiting thecity. Its colorful houses and pedestrianstreets form what is called the Caminito,where tango artists perform and tango-re-

lated memorabilia is sold. Other attractionsinclude the La Ribera theatre, many tangoclubs and Italian taverns.

DOCKLAND GENTRIFICATIONIn the 1960’s the port of Buenos Aires, like thatof counterpart cities all over the world, was abustling terminus for cargo carrying merchantships. In the southern part of town, known asDock Sud, Dock Sud had, from its inception, aproblem accommodating large cargo ships be-cause the shallow river did not allow for theirdraught. With the advent of containerizationand the construction of a new port the area fellinto disrepair, but like many such suburbsaround the world they have been rejuvenated

"The barrio of La Boca is a must, in the Caminito pedestrian areatango dancers perform their art with considerable enthusiasm..."

Hard to Keep Secret Restaurants in hotels can offer a gourmandthe magical experience of the best or worsekind and The Four Seasons Hotel BuenosAires definitely falls into the formercategory. Hot on the heels of the sensationalopenings of their Elena Restaurant and PonyLine Bar, which have revolutionised thegastronomic world in the area of Recoletaand the traditional Argentine hotel industry,the hotel has opened Nuestro Secreto.Nestled above the urban bustle in a rooftopgarden between the Hotel’s modern towerand its historic La Mansión, Nuestro Secretois a new indoor-outdoor venue which servestraditional Argentine flame-grilled asadoprepared with the best Argentine wood,along with a selection of national wines, amenu of fresh drinks, flavoured lemonades,cocktails and wine punch coming from theirrich immigrant culture. Inspired by the wayArgentinians like to entertain at home,Nuestro Secreto tries hard to recreate andoffer that experience to visitors who want toexperience real Argentine culture, as well aslocals looking for a fun night out in the heartof the city. The menu of starters, salads, redand white meats, grilled fish and seafood isprinted on newsprint, to emulate thetradition of reading the Sunday newspaperbefore using it to light the fire. “Every day isSunday here in Nuestro Secreto Restaurantthe style and the environment characterisesit so well,” says Lorena Buffa the hotels F&BAssistant Manager who is on hand toarrange a very special tasting menu for us.Nuestro Secreto can also be booked forprivate events, with room for up to 40 peopleinside a greenhouse-like extension, plus aspace for 44 people split in three semiprivate rooms located at the terrace, sharingthe scenery with the outdoor pool of thehotel. Those who wish to enjoy goodArgentine cocktails should venture to thebar and challenge David the barman to dohis best. When we told him of our researchwork into our up coming book Mojito’sAround the World he rose to the challengeand produced a stunner!

– 260 – – 261 –

and by a yuppie style of gentrification. In the1990s, local and foreign investment led to amassive regeneration effort, recycling and re-furbishing the west side warehouses into el-egant homes and offices. To compliment thenew image came a new name: Dock Sud wasdropped in favor of Puerto Madero.The area has been redeveloped with flair tobecome one of the trendiest boroughs inBuenos Aires. The road network has been en-tirely rebuilt with every street named after awoman. The Puente de la Mujer (Women’sBridge), by Spanish architect Santiago Cala-trava, is the newest link between the east andthe west docks. The Hilton Buenos Airesopened in 1999 and other luxurious hotels,state-of-the-art multiplex cinemas, theatres,cultural centers, restaurants, cafes and officeand corporate buildings followed. There iseven a marina and a yacht club: the PuertoMadero Yacht Club. Having tried to visitthem, in a bid to research this superyacht

destination feature, we found them to be oneof the most unfriendly yacht clubs we haveever encountered anywhere in the world.

ANTIQUESIn 1970, architect José Maria Peña envisioneda market to liven up the barrio (suburb) ofBuenos Aires called San Telmo. It is a shorttaxi ride away from the Four Seasons BuenosAires and well worth a visit if you love tobrowse. Peña convinced 30 neighbors to joinhim one day in selling off old stuff. Today thatoriginal idea has expanded to take in 200+ an-tique stands that line Avenida Defesa andhave taken over Plaza Dorrego. With some ofthe country’s top antique dealers setting upstall here, walking around is a treat even if youare not planning on purchasing anything.Old soda syphon bottles, copper, cookwaremate pots, vintage telephones and collectormatchboxes and tins are just some of thetreasures on offer. The old food market is a

Named after the first bull ever imported toArgentina from the UK to improve thequality of the local beef, Tarquino is a fine-dining restaurant located within HUBPorteño. The head chef is Dante Liporace, arising star in Argentina’s gourmet scenewho has worked in both El Bulli, Spain andThe Fat Duck in England. After workingwith Ferran Adriá at El Bulli for two seasons,Liporace now employs highly-skilledtechniques picked up in Spain to elevate thetraditional Parilla (Argentine barbecue) tothe level of fine-dining. Quintessentially hehas created Porteno Cooking a melting potof different cultures that first originatedfrom the cross between European settlersand the native Indians, and was laterenhanced by the boat-loads of Europeanimmigrants who arrived in Argentina at theturn of the Twentieth Century. Therestaurant has the air of a private club, withdining tables crafted from the softest leatherand spread out under the leafy branches ofthe 70-year-old fig tree that grows throughthe glass-roof.Buenos Aires allows plenty of provision to avoid acquiring tacky tourist souvenirs.

In the San Telmo barrio a thriving antique market has been created, offeringopportunity to pick up authentic mementoes and conversation pieces.

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masterpiece of architecture and even todaythe building–erected by Buschiazzo–housesa fine selection of antique stalls while findingspace for greengrocers, butchers and cafeowners to make a living. Elsewhere along De-fensa others have taken up stalls, keen to cap-ture the interest of passing tourists. Alongthis road you can find amongst the usualtourist tat a few cheap and cheerful gems, in-cluding hand made shoes, leather belts andyour very own Yerba Maté pot.Getting around the city is easy and inexpen-sive with an abundance of choice that in-clude: collectivos (buses) trains, subways,taxis and chauffeured cars called a remise. Ifyou enjoy an adventure, don’t mind a potholeor three and fancy your chances of being thesecond incarnation of Fangio (the famousand legendry Argentinian Race Car driver)then you have to hire a car in Buenos Airesand explore beyond the city. We hired oursfrom Avis to get us and our luggage from thecity center to San Antonio de Areco, some 75miles north of the city, where we were to stayon the most wonderful of polo pony es-tancias: La Bamba de Areco. One of the old-

est estancias in Argentina and, rather like asuperyacht, it can be chartered in its entirety.

LA BAMBA DE ARECORecently renovated with great care, the es-tancia is now a haven of tranquility outsidethe hustle and bustle of the country’s capital,but still close enough to offer a rare insightinto how the estancia owner might live. Thefeeling of being welcomed into a privatehome, into a property steeped in history andtradition, makes this boutique hotel a specialand timeless place for relaxation. Traditionalcuisine, old-fashioned service, gaucho tradi-tions and equestrian sports all add to themagic of the place. Located at the end of anavenue lined with century-old plane trees, themaster house at La Bamba was built in 1830on the site of an old coaching stop on theroad that ran from Rio de Plata to Lima inPeru. It quickly grew into an estancia of some650-acres owned and managed by the Aldaofamily. In 1983 looking to expand their busi-ness, the family opened it as an hotel. Seek-ing a farm on which to rear polo ponies,French businessman Jean Françoise Decaux

Buenos AiresFact File

Buenos AiresComodoro RivadaviaMar del PlataPuerto DeseadoPuerto MadrynPuerto Santa CruzRio GallegosUshuaia

The main route into Argentina by air is throughAerolineas Argentina, the country’s flag carrier. Itoffers a good network serving North and SouthAmerican airports. From Europe, British Airwaysand its sister airline the Spanish flag carrier Iberiaoffer service. Private aircraft can land at JorgeNewbery Airfield, located in Palermoneighborhood just a mile or so northeast ofdowntown Buenos Aires. It is the closer of twoairports serving the city of Buenos Aires

Yachts with their own helicopters need to consultwith ships agents known to have a good grasp onlocal regulation and how they can be operatedbefore they deploy them. Inside the city publictransport is inexpensive, easy to use and relativelysafe. Taxis, trams and subway trains offercomprehensive coverage of this sprawlingconurbation whose roads are often gridlocked bymotorcars.

Argentina uses the Peso, which is particularlyunstable. Captains cruising locally advise thatwhile small amounts of local currency should becarried, it is far better to carry Euros or US Dollarsand change them when required. Rates ofexchange vary daily, even hourly, and there aretwo markets on which money can be exchanged.The legal route is not quite as attractive as thepopular black market rate whose existence isinevitable given the poor economy of the area

Locally the language spoken is South AmericanSpanish and outside the city there are few placeswhere locals speak English

From BA we retreated to an ‘estancia’called La Bamba. The polo ranch wasacquired by billboard magnate Jean

Francois Decaux in 2007 and is a highlyexclusive boutique property…”

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visited La Bamba in 2007, it was the first onan extensive list of potential properties. Hearrived in time to see the sun set over theplain and was enthralled to the point that hechose to stay overnight, rather than move onto the next prospect. Over dinner he and hispolo manager, having first paced out theproperty to discover it could accommodatethe necessary polo practice pitches, begannegotiations to buy. Four days later Decauxwas the new owner of the main house and 50percent of the total acreage, and so La Bambabecame the new home for the embryonicpolo team. Over the years that followed the property wasextensively remodeled and improved withthe addition of pony stables and farm build-ings. The hotel itself was closed for two-years,undergoing extensive rebuilding and deco-ration under the direct supervision of JeanFrançoise Decaux, Pascale’s wife, herself anaccomplished and sought after interior de-signer. She extended the typical colonial-style main house and around its central

courtyard created a well-endowed library inwhat was once the guard tower. She also de-vised a pleasing drawing room and lobby,opening onto the parkland in front of thehouse. A two bedroomed cottage, where westayed, and an ensemble of other suites arespread over three buildings, accommodatinga maximum of 22-guests. Amenities includeseveral reception rooms, a TV room, a bar, amassage room, an outdoor swimming pooland a boutique.Staying at La Bamba is all about relaxing,chilling out and forgetting about stress. Rid-ing horseback on one of the 16 criollo ponieskept for guest use is a must and you do notneed to be an expert, there are ponies arecomplete novices. Excursions by carriage, ormountain bike, hot stone massages and thelarge swimming pool are just some of theother relaxations on offer. Because La Bambade Areco also serves as the base for the inter-national polo team that bears its name, theproperty also includes two polo fields. Dur-ing the season guests can watch practice ses-

After riding someof the 16 criollo

ponies andexploring the

countryside bymountain bike,take a hot stone

massage and relaxby the pool..."

Amenities include private cottages and accommodation for up to 22 guests and block booking is possible.

– 265 –

sions and matches, as well as displays of Gua-cho horsemanship that take place almostdaily. Although it is not intended to be a poloschool, arrangements can be made for guestswho are experienced polo players.It was Sir Winston Churchill who, while play-ing polo in India during the time he wasbased there in the 1890s with the 4th Hus-sars, coined the phrase “A polo handicap isyour passport to the world.” That statementhas certainly proved to be a truism and thesport has provided the opportunity for Kings,Emperors, Shahs, Sultans, and Caliphs to

play with and against film stars, aristocratsand wealthy businessmen the world over.The sport is now widely played in England,India, South Africa, Australia, the USA and ofcourse Argentina… the country that boaststhe most 10-goal handicappers in the world.

SAN ANTONIO DE ARECO Nearby, San Antonio de Areco is a center forsome of the most talented craftsman in Ar-gentina, as well as being one of the oldesttowns in the country. Its sleepy, narrow colo-nial streets, church, bars and museums ap-

Buenos Aires can be hot and humid in the summermonths, December to February being the hottest. InRio de la Plata the prevailing winds in summer areeasterly, while SW winds are more common inwinter. They are often accompanied by pamperos,semi colon violent SW squalls that affect most ofArgentina’s coastal waters.There are two dominant seasons, summer andwinter. It is unlikely that superyachts would seek tocruise during the winter months of June untilOctober. That said, there is more wind and rain inthe summer months and in winter there are manyperiods when clear skies are predominant. Thetemperature drops quickly the further south a yachtsails and strong pressure systems seem to passconsecutively.

Yacht Club Argentino www.yca.org.arYacht Cub Puerto Madero www.yachtcpm.com.ar

Argentina: H-116, 118, 155, 156.British: 1749, 1851, 2039, 3561.USA: 24050, 24052, 24053, 23030.

Inchcape Shipping Services Argentina:issargentina@iss-shipping.comShipping Services ssa@ssa-shipping.com.arBlue Star Company: agency@bluestarcompany.net

Immigration, Customs known as Aduana and thePrefectura Naval all have to be contacted byCaptains of superyachts. Through them it ispossible to obtain 3-month visas for crew. Cruisingsuperyachts must obtain a sailing permit, called aZarpe, detailing the area in which they intend to sail.

DocumentationFor port clearance upon arrival:Certificate of registryCrew listList of weapons and ammunition (Make, Model,Serial No., Quantity)Yacht particularsInsurance papers, valid for the duration of theyachts’s stayGuest lists (if guests are on board)Crew effects declarationStores list (Bonded)IMO Maritime declaration of healthVaccination listCopies of De ratting CertificateList of last 5 ports of callLast port Clearance

Martin Tatta

“I am not really what I would call a horse whisperer,” says Martin Tatta as we sit talk-ing to him out side La Puperia at La Bamba de Areco. “But I do have a very closebond with Milonga, my horse, that is so strong that I can talk to her and get her todo things just for me. It is a bond built on mutual trust. I can get her to roll onto herback put her legs in the air so I can sit on her belly, its not dangerous, but it looksthat way to those who have less of an understanding about these animals.” An en-thralling demonstration put on for us climaxed in him performing a handstand onthe horse while she lay with all four legs in the air!“If you are not a horse whisperer what are you,” we ask, “I call myself a Doma Indiabut that has no real translation. It is just what we say here in Argentina to describethis skill that has been handed down to us by generations of Indians before us. It isa skill that many gauchos have and I enjoy the life of a gaucho and I get a kick outof showing others how a guacho lives with his horse. Here on the Pampas we talk ofa gaucho without a horse rather much like you talk about someone without legs.” Tatta’s skills are self-taught, he was born and grew up on this estancia and says ithas a very special place in his heart. “We used to ride horses every day when I waslittle and when I was five I used to ride mine to school, just like American kids drivetheir cars to school when they are teenagers.” He has the skills that are the envy ofmany a polo player and while he enjoys watching the sport, he has no strong desireto follow the peripatetic lifestyle the star performers enjoy.

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pear to be in a time warp and afford visitorsan insight into another century. Here it is pos-sible to explore the soul and character of thegaucho at the Ricardo Guiraldes Gaucho Mu-seum, whom the famous Argentine writerbrought to life in his cult novel Don SegundoSombra (1926). Master silversmiths can beseen hard at work in their artisan workshops.Leather craftsmen and traditional rope mak-ers practice their craft and are happy to ex-plain what they are doing… and of course theycan all sell you examples of their exquisitework. At the beginning of each November, thetown plays host to thousands of gauchos fromall over Argentina, arriving for La Semana dela Fiesta de la Tradicion: a week of parties andtradition. The event, provides a real journeyinto Argentine history and heritage and pro-vides an unparalleled opportunity to discover

Gaucho culture, equestrian parades, rodeos,horse-breaking demonstrations, folk dancing,concerts and craft markets. Should timingprevent the visitor from catching these artistsas they perpetuate the international fame ofSan Antonio de Areco, then La Bamba deAreco can be relied upon to offer authenticgaucho traditions such as asados and matétasting. They also organize as an option sev-eral gaucho shows, which are private andunique: musical entertainment with folkdances, Indian horse-whispering, games ofequestrian skill: patos, boleadors and sortija.Buenos Aires, it’s a welcoming city that posi-tively explodes with a colorful burst of culture,and one that should appear on any passageplan of South America. A breezily fresh expe-rience and even its name bids the travellersafe passage: Good air and fair winds. I

"La Bambacheerfully organizes

demonstrationsby gauchos, horse

whisperers andgames of equestrian

skill, like patos,boleadors and

sortija."

From wonderful artisan food stores to the succulent cuts of Argentinian beef from an asado grill, this truly is a country for gastronomes!

– 267 –

For those with an appreciation for arts and craftsmanship like that of the finely talentedArgentian silversmiths, a trip to the sleepy town of San Antonio de Areco is a must.

Masters are required to give notice of ETA24hrs, and 12hrs prior to arrival in BuenosAires and will be expected to report theirpositions daily to the authorities whilecruising in the area. Clearance formalitiestake place before crew and passengers landashore or yachts enter docks and marinas.Buenos Aires Port Control stations can becontacted on Channel 12 or 16

Frances and Michael Howorth the writers,are grateful to The Four Seasons Hotel, LaBamba de Areco and Hub Porteño foraccommodating them so well

Four Seasons Buenos Aireswww.fourseasons.com/BuenosAiresHub Porteño www.hubporteno.comLa Bamba de Arecowww.labambadeareco.comYacht Club Argentino yca@yca.org.arYacht Club San Fernandonautica@clubsanfernando.comYacht Cub Puerto Maderocapitania@ycpm.info

Walk through any airport, or stand inside a bus shelter and the chances are you have seen an advertisement hosted by a companycalled JCDecaux. Jean-Claude Decaux gave the company his name when he founded it in 1964. His first contract was to install ad-

vertisements on bus shelters in Lyon in France. Today the firm has grown into the world’s largest outdoor advertising companywhose images reach 1.5-billion air travelers worldwide. In 2000 Jean-Claude stepped down as the company’s CEO, handing the reinsto his sons. Jean-François Decaux joined his fathers company in 1982 as Director Advertising Sales of JCDecaux Germany and heserved as its Co-Chief Executive Officer from 2002 for three years. He has served as the Chairman of the group’s Executive Board

since 2013. It was his love of Polo that drove him to buy the estancia at La Bamba de Areco and it was there, that he began to overseethe breeding of Polo ponies. He created his own Polo team and named it after the estancia. The team he created made history in2009 when it defeated Dubai to win the coveted Veuve Clicquot Gold Cup final, which took place at Cowdray Park Polo Club, in

England. In a closely-fought final, La Bamba de Areco became Europe’s top team by overcoming Dubai 13-10. The brothers Facundoand Gonzalo Pieres from Argentina formed part of the winning team, together with Tomás Garbini Islas and patron Jean FrançoisDecaux. Both teams took turns in leading the final, and La Bamba de Areco entered the final chukker with a one-goal advantage.