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How to Build an Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse

May 13th, 2008 in Hints, Tips, and How Tos | 202 Comments »

One of the most valuable assets in my garden is my greenhouse. It has allowed me to grow plants that I normally would not be able to grow, produce crops that the season is not usually long enough to produce, and protect my plants from frosts, hail, or other severe weather that normally would have destroyed my garden.

But I don’t have thousands of dollars to spend on a greenhouse. I just priced out an 8’x12’ greenhouse for $3,500. I would love to have a large, professional greenhouse, but that simply isn’t financially feasible for me. So, instead I’ve found a way to make a large greenhouse that is functional, easy to build, and inexpensive. This article will explain to you exactly how to build a 12’x32’ hoop-style greenhouse for under $400.

Required Materials List

Note: All wood should be green, treated wood to resist rot. (Or you can spend more money and buy a rot resistant type of lumber such as cedar.)

(4) 2×6 – 16’•(2) 2×6 – 12’•(14) 2×4 – 12’•(19) ¾” x 20’white pvc pipe•(9) 10mm x 10’ rebar•(1) 20’x50’ roll of 6mm plastic•(1) Bundle of 50 4’ wood lathe (or optional staples)•Zip ties•Nails or screws•Metal banding•Door hinges and handles•

Step 1 – Laying Out the Frame

Using the 2x6s, lay out and put together your 12’x32’ frame. (You can join the two 16’ pieces with a 2’ piece of 2×4.)

Ensure that the frame is square by measuring diagonally across it. You can temporarily keep the frame in place by pounding a 30” piece of rebar in each corner. (You can pull these out to use them in the next step.)

of 42How to Build an Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse | Alberta Home Gardening

11/20/2011http://www.albertahomegardening.com/how-to-build-an-inexpensive-hoop-style-greenhouse/

Step 2 – Adding the Hoops

Cut each 10’ piece of rebar into four 30” pieces of rebar. This will give you thirty-four pieces. Pound the rebar into the ground about 15” deep on the outside of your frame at two foot intervals. This will leave 15” sticking up out of the ground.

Now slide both ends of your pvc pipe over the rebar to make a hoop across the width of your greenhouse.



Attach the pvc pipe to the 2x6s by screwing short pieces of metal banding around the pipe.

Step 3 – Building the Ends

Cut the following pieces out of your 12’ 2x4s:

(2) 11’8¾”•(4) 1’6″•(4) 4’7″•(4) 5’7″•(8) 1’11¼”•(2) 4′¼”•



For each end, assemble the wall according to the following diagram.

Place this wall within the 2×6 frame and nail/screw in place.

Cut (4) 28” 2×4 pieces. Cut one end at a 45º angle. Use these pieces to brace the wall.

Once all of the hoops and the two ends are in place, connect two pvc pipes together and cut them to measure 32′ long. This will be the rib that will go along the top of your hoops. You can attach this rib with plastic zip ties.



Step 4 – Covering the Greenhouse with Plastic

If you are going to use wood lathe, cut 32 pieces of 20” lathe. These will secure the plastic to the sides of the 2×6 frame in between each hoop. Or optionally, you can use staples, though they may have a tendency to pull through the plastic.

Drape the plastic over the length of the greenhouse. Be sure to have enough overlap at the ends to cover the end walls. Pull the plastic snug and attach to the 2x6s at one end using the wood lathe or staples. Go to the other end, pull snug, and attach in a similar manner. Do this at the center, and then along the rest of the length of the greenhouse.



Note: If you can do this in warm weather, there will be less sagging later. Make it as snug as you can without causing damage to the plastic.

To attach the plastic to the ends, pull the plastic straight down, and attach with lathe. Then pull the plastic out to the sides. This will give you extra plastic along the outside edge. Fold the plastic back towards the center and attach. For the end with the door, cut out the plastic leaving a few inches of over hang to wrap inside and attach.



Step 5 – Adding the Door

Before you cut your pieces, check the actual measurements for the space you have. Your wall may sit a little different than mine. It’s always better to go a little small or your door may not fit. But if the measurements are the same, cut the following pieces out of your 12’ 2x4s:

(2) 4’11″•(2) 3’9″•

Nail these together to make your door frame. Lay a 2×4 diagonally across the frame and nail in place. Trim off anything that hangs over the frame of the door. This will be on the inside of your door. Too much wood hanging over will jam your door. Attach the hinges to the door frame.



Cover the outside of the door with remaining plastic or you can use plywood if you would rather. You can attach the plastic with the wood lathe or staples. There should be about 4” of overhang of plastic on all sides.

Attach the door handles to the door. Mount the door to the frame.

And there you go! You can have a beautiful 12’x32’ hoop-style greenhouse that can be built in a weekend and all for less than $400.

——

Update: July 11th, 2008

To see just how well this greenhouse works, see my July Greenhouse Update.

Update August 5, 2009

For an new and improved version, see An Inexpensive, Hail Proof, PVC Pipe Greenhouse.

Update 4ovember 29, 2010

Improved design. Changed material list from half inch PVC to three-quarter inch PVC.

Other Articles You May Be Interested In

An Inexpensive, Hail Proof, PVC Pipe Greenhouse•A Texas-Style Hoop Frame PVC Pipe GreenHouse•My Hoop-Frame Greenhouse In the Snow•My Giant $160 A-Frame Greenhouse•My Greenhouse Plastic Gets Destroyed•

$335.99* 1 seller

Greenhouse 10x10x8 Kit

$469.00* 4 sellers

6' X 8' Hobby Greenhouse Kit

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Green House Canopy 12'x24'8' -



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202 Responses to “ How to Build an Inexpensive Hoop-Style Greenhouse ”

# 1 Jennifer Says: May 14th, 2008 at 6:35 am

1.

Your blog is becoming one of my favorites…fast! Thank you so very much! Keep blogging!

# 2 Dave Says: May 14th, 2008 at 3:45 pm

2.

I’m glad you like! Blog I shall!

# 3 Amy Says: May 15th, 2008 at 8:53 pm

3.

You’ve put up a fantastic tutorial here – very, very tempting!

# 4 Patrick Says: May 18th, 2008 at 12:35 pm

4.

wind ever take it for a ride?? and have you found an easy way to attach a ventilation system


5.

The rebar does a great job of keeping it put. I’ve never had a problem with wind. The only ventilation I’ve used is to either replace the plastic on the door with screen or leave the door open. For the majority of the summer, you can just leave both ends open – closing them for the night when there is a risk of frost.

# 6 lisa pavlovic Says: May 30th, 2008 at 1:34 am

6.

This is the best set of directions and the most clever design. I thank you very much, my hollyhocks and cantelope may have a chance in Fairbanks, AK this year!

# 7 Scott Roush Says: June 4th, 2008 at 1:20 pm

7.

Great design! How about snow? I want to build a greenhouse over my garden and I live in northern Wisconsin where we get lots of snow…

# 8 Dave Says: June 4th, 2008 at 3:08 pm

8.

Well, I haven’t tried it with 6 mil plastic over the winter, but the 10 mil plastic I had on another greenhouse of similar design did just fine. The snow just slides off. The only concern might be if it piled up too high on the sides and started to push in your walls. But I never had a problem.

# 9 Howard R Says: June 22nd, 2008 at 8:21 pm

9.

Super design! I also live in Alberta and we are planning on building a greenhouse in the next few weeks, or at least we are now. If I may ask, where did you buy your plastic?

# 10 Dave Says: June 22nd, 2008 at 8:37 pm

10.



This plastic was bought at Rona for just under $100. If you do build a greenhouse, I’d love to see some pictures!

# 11 Angela Says: July 9th, 2008 at 5:39 pm

11.

Unbelievable! I’ve been to hundreds of webpages trying to find some way to build my own greenhouse that seemed like it would be simple, inexpensive and really work. I can’t tell you how grateful I am for your great description, instructions and pictures here that make it easy to follow. I live in a windy area, so I’m a little concerned about it holding up, but it looks like this design is the best for the wind to just ‘blow right over’! Does this really work throughout the whole winter? Even if it got through most of the year, it’s still going to be a huge blessing. Thanks for sharing this with the world wide web!

Blessings, Angela

# 12 Dave Says: July 9th, 2008 at 8:11 pm

12.

Structurally, this greenhouse should have no problem making it through the winter – the only issue could be your plastic. Six mil plastic might be a little thin to leave on all winter, but 10 – 12 mil should be just fine.

# 13 Mick Says: August 18th, 2008 at 4:07 pm

13.

Great job Dave. I was just wondering could you not space the pipes 3′ or 4′ apart instead of 2′ apart? Also would it be easier to put the plastic on by digging a trench at each side and when you backfill the trench it will stretch the plastic?

# 14 Dave Says: August 23rd, 2008 at 9:08 am

14.

You might try 3′ or 4′ spacing, especially if you plan on taking the plastic off for the winter. Otherwise, depending on your snow fall, you might end up with a saggy roof in winter.

The trench idea might work too. You’ll have to give it a try and let me know how it works!

# 15 charlette Says: August 25th, 2008 at 6:29 am

15.

How would you heat this greenhouse if you lived in northern mississippi. The winters here have been very mild the past couple of years. We do get down into the teens occasionally, snow maybe once a year that barely covers the ground. I’ve read where you could fill milk jugs or barrels with water and paint the container black so it would absorb heat, just looking for inexpensive way to heat. Any ideas. Thanks.

# 16 Dave Says: September 7th, 2008 at 2:20 pm

16.

Hmmm… that’s hard for me to imagine. Most of my winters hit at least -35 or -40! Barrels of water might work – it depends how warm you need to keep it. In the greenhouse above you would probably want several barrels of water to keep it a few degrees warmer than outside. Anything more and you’d probably need to look at some artificial heat – electric, gas, coal, wood, whatever is available in your area.

# 17 Liu Says: September 22nd, 2008 at 9:51 am

17.



Fantastic! Bravo! I read about how some people dig down a foot and lay down styrofoam board then sand with a heat mat in the sand…soil is last.

Regardless, your project as presented is GREAT!

# 18 Tony Says: October 12th, 2008 at 5:32 am

18.

Just a few tips for anyone who’s interested. 6 mil poly is stong enough for any winter if it’s greenhouse poly not vapour barrier. For anyone who wants to heat it they should go with a double layer of poly and inflate them with a little bathroom fan or furnace fan. You want a 6-10″ air space between the 2 layers this air space acts as isulation and greatly reduces condensation. I would also suggest putting the 2×6 on the outside of the pvc pipe this way you can get a tight seal down the full length of the building. You would also need a tight seal on the ends, this might require the use of a wirelock system or plywood ends. The 2 layers both go on the outside 1 on top of the other and the fan separates them and gives you your insulation. Also if you have a choice you should face the building east west so you get maximum sunlight in the spring when you need it most, this will also make it easier to vent in the warmer months. Sorry for being so long winded! Good luck.

# 19 in god we trust Says: October 19th, 2008 at 4:05 pm

19.

Where did ya’ll get your plastic? I can’t fing a 20′ by 50′ roll anywhere. If you could email me to the address above, i would greatly appreciate it. I love your blog! Keep Blogging!!!!!

# 20 Rhett Says: October 27th, 2008 at 12:20 pm

20.

Thanks AG! I had something like this in mind using black steel pipe at first, but also had thought about using pvc pipe. I just want to get a head start in my garden raising tomatoes. I can do this in the middle of March I’ll have a months head start on my competitors. And I don’t have to worry about snow much, but maybe wind. I’m in Illinois with a veggie garden. I appreciate all the time it took you to make this site and photograph and write the procedures!

# 21 Mort Yanow Says: October 30th, 2008 at 3:40 pm

21.

We’re at 4500′ in north central Washington state, long, sold, snowy winters. What adaptations would you make for, say, 20 below to 20 above weather, and what about snow load? Appreciate your thoughts.

# 22 Dave Says: October 30th, 2008 at 7:35 pm

22.

To structurally strengthen this greenhouse, you can run rebar through the length of your pvc pipes. Most of the snow slides off anyway (though you may need to shovel the sides a bit if the snow gets really deep – I’ve never had this problem.) I would also recommend going with a thicker woven poly like what you would find at http://www.northerngreenhouse.com/ If you plan on heating it through the winter, check out comment #18 of this post by Tony – He’s got some good thoughts.

# 23 ali Says: November 22nd, 2008 at 8:07 am

23.

that s very good idea im going to try it

# 24 Didi Douma Says: November 25th, 2008 at 12:28 pm

24.



Very interesting but what sort of plastic would you use if you live in Africa, won’t i get a problem with the sun?

# 25 Dave Says: November 26th, 2008 at 9:15 am

25.

The plastic that I mentioned from Northern Greenhouse in a few comments above has UV inhibitors so that even in constant direct sunlight, it should still last 3 – 4 years. The key is to have anything that touches the plastic colored white and to have good ventilation.

# 26 Ken Says: January 9th, 2009 at 10:20 pm

26.

The greenhouse poly seems to come only in narrow widths, 10′ or 12′. Does that work for this greenhouse that requires a 20′ wide piece? Is it better to use heavy mill vapor barrier?

# 27 Dave Says: January 10th, 2009 at 3:57 pm

27.

If you’re looking at the poly from Northern Greenhouse, they can join the 10′ strips to make whatever size you want. Heavy mil vapor barrier should work as well – though I can’t imagine it would have the life span of greenhouse poly.

# 28 tony Says: January 13th, 2009 at 5:57 am

28.

The company I spoke to here in Ontario was L&R Shelters, they sell greenhouse kits as small as 12′ wide. They will also just sell you the poly for .11c sq/ft it is a 6mil uv treated greenhouse poly which has a 4 yr warranty. This is the industry standard that most nuseries use, as it was explained to me the poly will last 6-7yrs, the warranty only goes 4yrs because as the poly ages you start to lose light transmissions required for certain plants/ vegtables. The problem some might have with ordering this poly is getting a piece small enough, as a 12×32′ house would require a piece that is considered an off cut.

I spoke to 1 of their customers who built his own frame and used the 6mil poly, it was a double layer inflated with a small fan. He said the poly was 9 yrs old! Which I found hard to believe but he showed me the date stamp on the poly 1999. His fig trees didn’t seem to care about getting less light and he said the reason it has lasted so long was because it was inflated so when the weather gets really hot and the poly stretches it just has more air between the layers and never gets loose. Here is a link to their site.

http://www.lrshelters.ca/index.html

# 29 Liz Says: January 13th, 2009 at 3:36 pm

29.

Awesome idea! I live in alberta and am going to give this a try!

# 30 tony Says: January 13th, 2009 at 3:57 pm

30.

I should have mentioned that if hail is your concern you should go with the 10mil.

# 31 Dave Says: January 13th, 2009 at 4:19 pm

31.

Tony, thanks for the link – looks great!

# 32 Peggy Says: January 27th, 2009 at 5:34 pm

32.



The best set of instructions I have seen. Best wishes from Ireland

# 33 Mahdi Ramazi Says: February 2nd, 2009 at 4:00 am

33.

my dear friend , i`m so thanksfull to you , i tried to find a new way for makeing a greenhouse., so now you makeing a new knowleg about my question . ( mahdi ramazy from Islamic Republic Of Iran – Tehran-Shahriyar) ..

# 34 inadvertentfarmer Says: February 5th, 2009 at 1:43 pm

34.

what a great step by step tutorial. I have plans for one this year and will certainly be referring back here for hints…thanks so much! First time visiting and am enjoying very much, Kim

# 35 johnsonb Says: February 12th, 2009 at 11:39 am

35.

I really like the plan for make the greenhouse, but the greenhouse poly that I am considering to buy cannot be touching PVC plastic or vinyl. I was thinking, could I use a galvanized steel tubing? Thanks

# 36 Dave Says: February 12th, 2009 at 10:28 pm

36.

Sure. I would choose steel tubing over pvc if cost wasn’t an issue. Most commercial greenhouse use steel tubing.

# 37 Amber Says: February 13th, 2009 at 2:59 pm

37.

Hi, thank you for your tutorial and great pics. I am planning one following your guide but half the length. This looks perfect for our needs. I linked to your page on my blog to give you credit. Thanks bunches!

# 38 tony Says: February 13th, 2009 at 5:20 pm

38.

http://www.growerssupply.com/farm/supplies/prod1;gs1_cold_frames_high_tunnels;pg103083_103083.html

This company sells a light weight 8×24 steel hoop house for $399us. I don’t know if it includes poly or not?

# 39 Rick Says: February 14th, 2009 at 8:30 pm

39.

I used one of the carports that you see everywhere for a frame to build a greenhouse for a friend.

# 40 Mr Flapper Duck Says: February 17th, 2009 at 8:17 pm

40.

This is awesome! I’m so glad you posted it. I am trying to build a predator-proof aviary for my rescued pet ducks, and this will work perfectly. I was pricing out dog runs and specialized buildings, but this is WAY more within my price range. I am covering it with heavy 1″ predator-proof avian netting all around, except for the door.

Just perfect. Thanks for the detailed supply list as well.

# 41 4ancy-Jo Williams Says: February 24th, 2009 at 12:25 pm

41.



Hi… this the most wonderful site I seen. I have dreamed for the passed 5 years to build myself a green house but never could see the way to afford to get enough money for one. I was checking out differant sites and run acrossed yours, it is wonderful I wa so blessed to find it. The next day I showed my husband and he said “wow” that seems easy enough, so within two days I had all the supplies I needed,and got home and within and hour and 15 min. we had the frame build and the rebar set in and the pvc pipe placed, oh what joy it brought to my heart. Our green house is an 12′ by16′…..thank you so much. you are a blessing to many. bye for now Nancy-Jo

# 42 jason Says: February 26th, 2009 at 5:07 pm

42.

great idea . I am a market gardener from pei with a need to extend my growing season I think this may be what i need or at least can afford. I am just a little nervous of the half inch pvc frame.would it not shift in heavy winds.


43.

I’m not sure how your wind would compare to ours, but I haven’t had a problem. The rebar anchors it to the ground, but still allows the frame to have some flexibility.

# 44 Johnebook Says: March 18th, 2009 at 7:40 am

44.

If you use double poly with wirelocks or batten tape, keep the inflation fan running during the winter and summer. The poly will survive hail much better if inflated. Growers Supply has the fan kit with the blower, flex pipe and pass through for the inside poly layer. They also have rolls of narrow felt, sticky on one side, that you can attach to the pvc to protect the poly. You can get corkscrew ground stakes, like you would use for a dog, there too. Use these to secure your boards to the ground. As stated above, most greenhouses would have the boards on the outside of the pvc. You don’t want to invest all that money and time in making a giant kite. I speak from experience. I use the ground stakes every 5 feet with ratchet tie-downs. Two additional purlins, like the one at the ridge, one on each side, should help with the snow load and sagging.

# 45 Vicki Says: March 24th, 2009 at 5:53 pm

45.

Dave first let me thank you for this wonderful design! I am a collector of Japanese Maples and I live right on the border of zone 5 and 6…of course most them are hardy to zone 6 and so I am so excited about this greenhouse as a way to protect my maples in the winter as well as late frosts when thyey have already started to leaf out. I either dismantle it in the summer or convert part of it into a partial shade house in the summer. But I am wondering what is the lifespan of PVC exposed to the elements? I love the idea of using PVC but if it isn’t going to last more than 4 or 5 years I might consider the metal hoop. How long has yours lasted? Also another great resource for greenhouse suplies including plastic is farmtek.com I have bought from them many times and LOVE them!

Vicki

# 46 Dave Says: March 30th, 2009 at 10:03 am

46.

I’ve found that the PVC does get brittle with time. Because I’ve changed my design several times, I’ve only had the same PVC in use for one year at a time. But with the brittleness that I’ve seen, I would have doubts that it will last 4 – 5 years. If you’re looking for a long term greenhouse, you’ll probably want to go with steel.



# 47 Cat Says: March 31st, 2009 at 7:53 pm

47.

I live in Calgary, in an apartment building and luckily for me I live on the main floor and I have a small patio. 3 yrs ago I had a raised (waist high) 3′x6′ garden box (on legs) built but being a beginner gardener I had little success. I love the idea of building my own green house however, I’ll have to figure out a way to build one to accomodate my existing box, where I can raise the plastic to access the plants (since I can’t walk in it) but still seal tightly when the plastic is down. I’m open to any suggestion Thanx for sharing your ideas and experiences.

# 48 Stacy Says: April 6th, 2009 at 10:12 am

48.

Well we just built this greenhouse, with a few changes, we made ours 10×22. We put a peice of strapping 2 feet off the floor running the liength of the greenhouse to sturdy it up. We also used strapping in the top centre (instead of pipe and zip ties)attached to the hoops with the metel electrical bands , we got a box of 50 for 8$ It was complete in 2 days! Its wonderful! When we bought our farm it came with a huge pile of electrical conduit, enough for 3 or 4 of these greenhouses. We plan to build another very soon. We could’nt of been happier to find this design! Good job! It is now full of many vegetables , flowers and herbs getting ready for the upcoming season. Happy gardening , Stacy

# 49 matteo Says: April 12th, 2009 at 7:08 am

49.

i like the greenhouse. I was so happy when i found the design its going to help me out alot. QUESTION! what kind of plastic did you use on the green house?

# 50 Dave Says: April 13th, 2009 at 9:10 am

50.

This plastic is just 6 mil plastic from Rona. It held up pretty good over the winter, but I would still recommend going a little stronger with a 10-12 mil plastic. You can find some great stuff at http://www.northerngreenhouse.com

# 51 Farshid (4ew Zealand) Says: April 14th, 2009 at 9:33 pm

51.

Hi Dave I followed your instruction and built the green house. It took 3 afternoons (after work). I am amazed how easy and cost effective it was (about NZ$200) it is 6mX3m very big. We are very lucky, not needing any heating systems as winters are not very cold here. Sun is sufficient enough. I have some pics but I don’t know how I can send it to you. Thanks mate!!!

# 52 Simon Says: April 27th, 2009 at 3:50 pm

52.

Superb !! Dave, Do you think it would be possible to make it wider and taller by joining two lengths pf pvc pipe together. I would like to get 20ft wide. Is this possible or would it compromise the strengh too much. How



about using thicker pipe ? Thanks

# 53 Dave Says: April 27th, 2009 at 4:13 pm

53.

20ft wide using the pvc pipe would likely be too flimsy. If you want to go that route, you could try a 1/2 inch rebar. Or another way to go is A-Frame Style. I built one like that last year, but I used too cheap of plastic. My brother made one just like it with 11 mil plastic and it worked great!

# 54 Simon Says: April 27th, 2009 at 7:09 pm

54.

Thanks Dave, Could I go up tp 16ft wide. If I use 3/4 or inch pipe would it bend enough to create the hoop, or would this be too rigid.

thanks


55.

I haven’t tried the 3/4 inch pipe, so I couldn’t say for sure. But I would guess it should work. Are you still planning on using 20 ft long pipes? That would make your roof pretty low, unless you put them on top of a short (maybe two foot tall) wall. Also, if you’re planning on leaving the plastic on over the winter, you might need to be concerned about the snow load on such a low angled roof.

# 56 Simon Says: April 28th, 2009 at 5:59 am

56.

Hi Dave,

Thanks again for your reply. I was going to experiment with joining two lengths together to get a good height maybe try a 20ft and a 10ft. I not too sure weather the join would cause a problem as far as weekness is concerned. I hope that the bend in the pipe would not cause the join to split. Thanks again !! P.S I live in Barbados so snow is not an issue , just the heat and the odd Hurricane !!

# 57 JAVIER RODRIGUEZ Says: May 20th, 2009 at 1:33 pm

57.

hi there! I want to know if this structure is weather resistant. What happen when the rain is severe? When the wind is severe? It can be built larger? say 25′x105′…. do you think it would be a good idea for a commercial initiative? thanks a lot every one, all opinions will be considered?

# 58 Don Says: May 21st, 2009 at 9:36 am

58.

Hi Dave,

Just wanted to let you know that I used your plans to build a greenhouse on Mother’s day this year. I’m located in Alberta, near Edmonton and we’ve had some snow and fairly strong winds since I put it up and it is holding up fine. Building the greenhouse only took me about 6 hours – my cost was a bit higher (around $500) as the store I went to didn’t have everything so I substituted some more expensive material and bought twice the amount of poly as was needed.



Your plans were great, before finding them I was going to build a small wood-frame green-house but this one is much bigger and better.

Thanks,

Don

# 59 Dave Says: May 21st, 2009 at 2:35 pm

59.

If the greenhouse is properly anchored, wind and rain should be no problem in all but the most severe weather. You could build it larger provided that A). You have sufficient ventilation and B). The arches are sufficiently supported. You may need a center support system for spans over 12′. I’m not sure I would go this way for a commercial venture – I would likely choose a steel frame.

# 60 steve Says: June 7th, 2009 at 6:09 pm

60.

Hi Dave,

I live north of Toronto , and the winters can get pretty cold, around -30 C.

We have potted fig trees that we keep outside during the spring/summer months but by October, we bring them inside and store in our basement until the following Spring.

With this type of greenhouse, would it be possible to keep them outside in the greenhouse growing and producing fruit all year long?

Thanks Steve

# 61 Dave Says: June 8th, 2009 at 8:48 am

61.

Hi Steve! This type of greenhouse would be quite expensive to heat all year round. If you did want to heat it, you would want to two layers of poly with a layer of blown air between them. Even this at -30 would lose a lot of heat! If I were in your situation, I think I would either A.) Build a sun room onto my house, or B.) Keep doing what you’re doing!

Dave

# 62 Jenny & Jon Says: June 22nd, 2009 at 10:19 am

62.

wow! this is amazing! also living in northern alberta with lots of snow & cold, so i’ll definatley upgrade to the 10mm poly!! cant wait to fabricate this design!!!Honestly thank you so much! i was literally minutes away from ordering a much smaller greenhouse for $1550. from sears canada. Your blog has also bin incredibly inspirational for us:) take care & keep blogging!! i will post pics as soon as its complete! ~Thanx again~

what type of heating would you recommend for attempting some crop’s throughout the winter months, if that is even possible!??


63.

If money were no object and I wanted to heat this type of a greenhouse, I would use in-floor hot water heating. That would keep the soil and the air temperature warm enough throughout much of the winter, but



in -40 degree weather, I’m not sure this structure could keep the heat coming in as fast as it goes out. But then again, I’ve never tried, so who knows….

# 64 tony Says: June 25th, 2009 at 3:38 am

64.

# 60 steve. Hi Steve, A friend of mine has fig trees in a greenhouse, he started with a 20′x48′ x9′tall house but the trees grew too tall. Now he has a 30x48x18′ tall and the trees still grow almost to the roof!

He was spending around $300 a month on gas to heat the greenhouse to 5 degrees C through the winter. Now he uses a used oil furnace so the oil is free but he paid 10,000 for the furnace. The trees still go dormant in the winter but they grow like weeds in the spring. If you do put up a greenhouse you will eventually need somthing very tall, which will be even less efficient and more unstable in the wind. So you might be better off to build from wood and if possible face the building east west so you can insulate the 3 sides and leave the south side covered with double poly or lexan. Good luck.

# 65 Ker Says: June 26th, 2009 at 10:03 am

65.

We are going out today to buy the materials and build this greenhouse over my existing garden..Weve had nothing but rain and more rain to come..if my garden doesnt get covered it I’d might as well forget about everything in it… thanks for this great idea that is cost effective.

# 66 danielle Says: July 2nd, 2009 at 3:17 pm

66.

hi this is great, i too have a poly greenhouse athough i used conduit. i wanted a bigger one and was clueless how to go about it. this is perfect. for my existing greenhouse i have 4ft high framed walls with conduit completing the roof. i ended up with a 8 ft greenhouse that is 6 ft wide, shelves run the length on both sides wide enough to accomodate flats of plants underneath i used closet rod hangers to hold more conduit to accomodate my baskets, while the floor on both sides holds all my planters. i used 1×3 lumber to use at the peak to sandwich the condiut and it also holds my heat lamp and gro lights well. i also used more 1×3 to hold down thw plastic over the wood framing.i used a double layer of 6 mil poly as well. the only venting is the door. i can hardly wait to do a larger green house next year. thanks!!!

# 67 mosen Says: July 3rd, 2009 at 7:36 am

67.

Hi Dave:

Thanks for taking the time to document your nice procedure. I leave in Austin and here we have an issue with deer. I’m thinking about using your design to make a protected vegetable garden. However, due to hot temp, I’m thinking about using chicken wire instead of plastic. Do you think the PVC is strong enough to hold the weight of chicken wire? .. a 48″ X 30′ for each overlapping section of the structure would weigh approximately 10 lbs.

Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts on this,

Mosen

# 68 Dave Says: July 3rd, 2009 at 9:08 am

68.



Hi Mosen! I think you’ve got a great idea using that chicken wire – I’m sure the weight would not be an issue. I’d love to get some pictures from you when it’s done!

# 69 anne Says: July 10th, 2009 at 8:22 pm

69.

Thanks so much for your version of the hoop green house. Just wanted to let Mosen know that I built a similar design but with chicken wire to use for my chickens so they could free range without being bothered by my dogs. The pvc has no problem supporting the weight of the chicken wire. I tie wrapped the wire every few inches along the pvc and it stiffened the structure also. I stapled the bottom of the wire to my wood frame that made my bottom supports.

# 70 Mike Says: July 13th, 2009 at 10:52 am

70.

What kind of plastic should be used? Like stuff I can get at rona, Or the building box?

# 71 Sandra Lee Aldis Says: July 13th, 2009 at 10:29 pm

71.

Thank-you so much for sharing your greenhouse design. Your instructions are so clear and intelligible that I think I can actually build one. I have looked at ready made large greenhouses and they’re all too expensive for my budget so I’m elated to find this information. It is also very refreshing to see an idea like this shared without asking for a fee but if you do have things for sale related to gardening I would be interested in hearing about them and/or seeing them. Thank-you again, Take care, Lee.

# 72 Dave Says: July 14th, 2009 at 7:23 am

72.

Scroll through the other comments on this page – lots of ideas for plastic!

# 73 Gavin Says: August 4th, 2009 at 4:33 pm

73.

would using cross tees not make for a sturdier construction? Also hauling 20 ft. lengths of pipe can be a challenge. My interest is primarily for a poultry run that will be covered with stucco or other strong wire. Maybe the base perimator will be stucco and the top will be a lighter material. I never thought of using rebar to secure the base.

# 74 Dave Says: August 4th, 2009 at 8:33 pm

74.

Actually, the first hoopframe greenhouse I built I used cross tees, and I had two pipes break right where they joined the tees. I haven’t had a 20ft break yet. (But transportation is a challenge…)

# 75 Ev Says: August 5th, 2009 at 6:09 pm

75.

I use this design for my pastured poultry. Of course I don’t need an 8 ft. wall for an 18″ chicken so I cut the poly pipe into 10 ft. lengths. This gives me a 7 ft. wide by 3 1/2 ft. hi structure. The chickens need shade and shelter from rain so I put about a 4 ft. strip of tarping along the top of the hoops full length and tie it down to the rebar and secure it to the end hoops. Then I run around the two sides and one end with poly secruity fencing or plastic chicken wire, tucking and tying at the corners, no need to cut it. A fifty ft. roll of fencing gives you about a 20 ft. run. Since the fencing is only 4 ft. hi it would not go right to the rop of the hoops and would leave a gap along the top but that is covered with the tarp roof. I also throw a tarp over



one end for their” house” for sleeping at night and to get into out of the wind. Works great for growing out chicks to point of lay. Just think – no cleaning out chicken houses, just move it. It leaves a lovely fertilized spot where the grass quickly pops up. For chickens one does not need the wood around the bottom, just let the fencing curl into the pen at the bottom about 4 inches then there is no sneaking out even if your pasture is not level. I built a square panel that fits against the open end of the run which I just swing aside when I want to feed and water. No need for me to go in there. The “gate panel” is a piece of concrete reinforcing wire (6″ x 6″ steel mesh) covered with fencing. The steel wire acts as a frame to hold the fencing up. I just bungie it to the end of the run. I wish I could send pictures of my happy chickens in their chicken patio. A picture is worth a thousand words.

# 76 Dianne Bostock Says: August 11th, 2009 at 8:38 am

76.

Thanks for your great ideas and plans. I plan on creating this greenhouse very soon. However I was wondering how to vent this greenhouse? It says to put vents at the rear & sides but doesn’t explain how? Also, I want to buy the 12 mil woven poly, is there anyone in Alberta that sells it? Did you purchase your pvc from a lumberyard? I’m very excited about this project, & like many other Albertans wish to increase our growing season. I hope to hear from you soon. Dianne.

# 77 Dave Says: August 12th, 2009 at 7:40 am

77.

Right now for my ventilation, I keep both doors open all summer, just closing them over night on frosty nights. This seems to be plenty of ventilation for that size of greenhouse. If you went longer you may need to add side ventilation. As far as the 12 mil woven poly – I don’t know of any in Alberta. Northern Greenhouse in Manitoba is the only place I know about that does the woven poly. My pvc pipes came from Home Depot, but I’m sure any lumber yard should carry it.

# 78 Miwa Says: August 20th, 2009 at 6:21 am

78.

Nice article and explanation. I built a hoop house (cold frame) a few months ago. I purchased mine from FarmTek.com. I got the 10W by 20L. You can see their sizes at: http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/prod1;ft1_coldframes_hightunnels;pg105158f.html

The frame was very sturdy and I picked up greenhouse film from them too. I’ve enjoyed this year’s tomatoes so much, that I’m thinking of getting a bigger structure. They call them high tunnels. Look at: http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplies/cat1a;ft1_coldframes_hightunnels.html. They also have manuals you can download too, so if you are building one, you can get good ideas. Peace.

# 79 Thomas Says: August 30th, 2009 at 1:49 pm

79.

Dave, I have a question, we want to build a greenhouse a little wider that the one in this plan, is it possible to take say 2 16″ pvc pieces connect them with a connector and pvc cement, then bend, or would the joint screw up the bend? I am just thinking smaller sized pvc pieces would be easier to deal with. Possible? thanks

# 80 HP Says: September 15th, 2009 at 9:24 pm

80.

The 6mil plastic which I used for my greenhouse did not last one season because I used steel wires for connecting the PVC pipes which burnt the plastic.

This season I am planning to cover the plastic with white tarp which I got from Home depot for $26 for 19′ X 20′. The tarp looks very tough for tearing. Any comments appreciated.



# 81 Carol Says: October 15th, 2009 at 7:50 am

81.

Hi Dave,

Love your design. I am in Florida and plan on building my greenhouse in a few weeks. Do you think it would take away from the sturdiness, if i placed the rebars inside of the frame verses outside the way you have it. Thanks


82.

Actually, I would recommend putting the rebar and pvc on the inside of the frame. That’s one modification that I’ve made to the design – you can see my latest design here – http://www.albertahomegardening.com/an-inexpensive-hail-proof-pvc-pipe-greenhouse/

# 83 Paul Says: November 10th, 2009 at 6:25 am

83.

like your blog as this is something I have had an interest in for some time. One question to you guys, especially for those who leave their plastic on over winter, the problem I forsee in Ireland is the wind rather than the snow! would the pvc plastic pipe be strong enough even with rebar in it to withstand some of the winds we have on the western seaboard of Ireland? If not how did you get around the problem?

thanks

# 84 Dave Says: November 10th, 2009 at 1:39 pm

84.

Paul, I can’t speak to your specific winds, but we do often get some strong winds here. In my experience, the strength of the PVC in the wind isn’t a problem – it’s more of a concern of the strength of the plastic (or perhaps how well the plastic is attached.) I’ve heard of wind lifting the entire structure if not properly anchored, but the PVC itself has had no issues that I know of.

# 85 10 GREAT BUILD-YOUR-OW4 GREE4HOUSE SITES « Digging in the Driftless Says: December 18th, 2009 at 6:26 am

85.

[...] Big Hoop House under $400 [...]

# 86 Steeve Poynter Says: December 18th, 2009 at 12:35 pm

86.

Just in time for spring in the Ozarks! Freshe food!!!!

# 87 Amanda Says: January 6th, 2010 at 6:34 am

87.

That looks great we are looking for just your kind of set up but at a lower price than the commercial fat cats are offering. We have professional market gardener friends coming to stay this summer so the pressure is really on. Wish us luck and I will let you know how we get on. Many thanks for being so open and generous with your knowledge.

# 88 Eddie Says: January 25th, 2010 at 9:40 pm

88.

Thanks for the wonderful idea. I finally found what I’been looking for. It seems really unexpencive and funcional. Keep doing watever you’re doing, helping another people like myself. Thanks again




89.

a few questions and also a reply to post 42/43? the pvc pipe should flex in winds and absorb any sudden wind loads shifts/shocks. im more concerned about the amount of heavy snow we get here. and the odd mild days then rapid cold snaps where we get temperatures that dip down to -38′c. and high winds.

id like to find a way to heat the green house to make it fully functional through the entire winter months here in ontario,canada.

my idea was to build a small wood frame structure with single pane glass windows (wood frame around the windows already) and build a small structure at one end, and use an old wood stove for heating. a few fans to blow the heat around. condensation might not be a bad thing, a little dampness and humidity might be a good thing.

any ideas on this?

coehill.dave @ gmail.com

# 90 Joe DAgostino Says: February 9th, 2010 at 6:57 pm

90.

you have made it very simple and user friendly. I didn’t notice anywhere what the thickness of the pvc pipe is. I assume it is the thicker walled, schedule 40 material. Please confirm. Thank you.


91.

You can use either, but I find the 20 is more flexible and less likely to break as it gets brittle with time.

# 92 big jim Says: February 10th, 2010 at 9:14 am

92.

When I found your plans for an inexpensive greenhouse I knew it was for me. I read every comment and researched all the sources you recommended for covering etc. I finally decided on the 12X32 version with some revisions.

Since I am 6’4 I needed more height so I added 2 ft to the hoops. I also decided on the plywood ends and I added some extra internal bracing there. One other major change–I bought elec conduit clamps to fasten the hoops to the base. Much, much easier to use than the strapping material. I chose plastic covering over the mesh due to high cost differences and no apparent guarantee that the mesh would last longer–not counting hailstorms. I live in N. central Texas and hail is a possibility. I also spent closer to $650 rather than the $400 you originally estimated but it is still a bargain. Now to the planting and growing.

big jim

# 93 Teresa Rawle Says: February 15th, 2010 at 7:06 pm

93.

I think your design looks great. I’ve been drooling over greenhouse catalogs and thinking it would be years before I could afford to get one. Now I’m thinking that maybe my husband and I can actually build one a lot like yours. My only question is, I live in Payson, Utah where we get microbursts just about every spring and sometimes more often. The winds can get up to 60 to 80 miles an hour, but usually only last a few minutes. Trees are usually uprooted all over the place and we have to replace roof shingles constantly (it



seems like). Anyway, if you have any ideas about handling those nasty little winds I would be very appreciative. I don’t want to see my future greenhouse sailing across the field the next wind storm we get. Thanks so much!

Sincerely, 8daisy8


94.

This greenhouse should be fine even in the wind as long as you anchor it. Pound some long wooden stakes along the inside edges and fasten the stakes to the frame. This will keep the wind from picking up the whole structure. And as long as your poly is tight and attached securely, the wind won’t be able to rip that away either.

# 95 A Texas-Style Hoop Frame PVC Pipe GreenHouse | Alberta Home Gardening Says: February 17th, 2010 at 3:03 pm

95.

[...] I’d share Big Jim’s pictures and tell you about some of the modifications he made to my Inexpensive Hoop-Frame PVC Pipe Greenhouse. So first the [...]

# 96 Lynn Says: February 23rd, 2010 at 12:54 pm

96.

WOW I’m inspired. Just recently divorced and don’t have much money. I’ve got a little bitty purchased greenhouse that I spent far more on and is a pain to put up have to be a rocket scientist have have multiple helpers to assemble.

I also liked the ideas about utilizing this with small modifications for inexpensive poultry housing as well. When you start looking at $12K greenhouses it becomes cost prohibitive and offsets any potential savings from growing your own food. Costs of barns and buildings for small livestock also becomes prohibitive.

Thank you Dave.

# 97 Judith van Praag Says: February 24th, 2010 at 5:22 pm

97.

Thank you for this great comprehensive post, just what we need!

# 98 Theresa Says: March 3rd, 2010 at 6:41 am

98.

Thank you thank you thank you!!! I needed this and to build a greenhouse and I was getting pretty frustrated with the cost of the metal hoops and even finding them without buying a whole kit!!!! My plants thank you and my family thanks you!!!

# 99 dave pearce Says: March 28th, 2010 at 6:21 pm

99.

Dave, Great idea and excellent instructions! I built a shorter, 16 foot version due to space limitations and my gardening wife is really pleased with the results. We live on southern Vancouver Island and woke one morning in late winter to see wet snow falling. The small amount that had accumulated (less than 1/2 inch) was enough to deform the supports, so after snow removal a supporting beam was installed. Cheers, Dave.



# 100 joe anthony Says: April 2nd, 2010 at 4:49 pm

100.

Hi Dave, I have just started my polytunnel and I was wondering if black pipe would be a problem, I am in Ireland and the temperature rarely goes above 72c. Thanks Joe

# 101 Kerry Says: April 8th, 2010 at 12:14 am

101.

We arew about to make a mini green house using this method, Thanks for a great blog its helped heaps

# 102 david Says: April 15th, 2010 at 2:38 am

102.

We offer a greenhouse of 20′ x 20′ made out of galvanized steel and covered with polyethylene at price of 1,000$ at our distributor (CA). Other accessories such as: door, benches, anti-insect curtains are available

E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected]

# 103 katherine Says: April 18th, 2010 at 9:48 pm

103.

One night digging around the net we found your plans for this awesome greenhouse.It was easy enough that most anybody could tackle it so we bought the materials and got busy.14 hours(give or take a few beer breaks) and it was done.I love showing it off to my friends who are amazed at the cost and ease of the assembly.We live in northern B.C. and we are confident it will serve us well. We modified and customized a bit and we love it. Thank you for sharing your idea with us all!! Katherine in Telkwa,B.C.

# 104 Alona Says: April 19th, 2010 at 8:46 pm

104.

Hello, I have a question. Where did you get pvc pipes? We just started building our green house using your model and it is over $400. How did you managed under $400? We still cannot find pipes. What is your advice?

# 105 JP Says: April 23rd, 2010 at 7:49 pm

105.

Has any one heated this type of structure? If so what is the size of your greenhouse and how did you heat it? We would like to use this one for growing on seedlings and it can get down to -10 C some nights.

# 106 JP Says: April 23rd, 2010 at 7:58 pm

106.

And another question…has anyone made this GH mobile? Ie put it on skids or make it able to drag to other spots? any details would be greatly appreciated!


107.

Check Home Depot or UFA for 20′ PVC pipes. Keep in mind that this was two years ago… Prices may have gone up since then, but you should still be able to be around the $400 mark…



# 108 merv-kel Says: April 27th, 2010 at 9:41 pm

108.

I just wanted to tell you how excited we are about getting our greenhouse up! We have been pricing out greenhouses, saving the old windows from the reno’s trying to firgure out how to built our greenhouse!Well then i found your site and was so excited to show it off We are making our list and checking it twice to make sure we got all the materials written down! We love your greenhouse and thank you so much for making it so building friendly !!! The step by step is awesome thank you again and happy gardening!

# 109 Justin Says: April 30th, 2010 at 9:14 am

109.

I also had problems finding 20′ lengths of PVC. I live in the Edmonton Area. What I ended up doing is going to Totem and buying 10′ sections of PVC pipe. They are grey in color, but the pipes could be joined together as one end was slighly wider on each piece.


110.

We built a pvc greenhouse a few years ago and love it…kind of a cape cod style and will add the hoophouse over the veggie garden next weekend as the growing season here in southeast massachusetts starts as rainy/cold season the past few years, can’t wait to use the plans on this blog and get the crops going earlier and keep them going later. We had no issues with snow last year, the pvc is alot stronger than we thought it would be…

# 111 Adrian Wallace Says: May 16th, 2010 at 11:26 am

111.

Also, Snow is probably, the worst enemy of PVC hoophouses! If you live in a heavy snowfall region, perhaps, using cattle panels , instead, would be better material. Something like this, http://www.ehow.com/how_6169734_build-livestock_cattle-panel-hoop-house.html

# 112 Julietta Says: May 23rd, 2010 at 10:49 pm

112.

hi,

I came across your site while surfing and i am glad i did.

Even though i live in the tropics (we dont get snow) I want to build one mostly for tomatoes; lettuce watermelon; peppers, cabbage and spinach. we have a lot of bugs to fight with and I usually have to spend a lot of time looking for the caterpillars and and other bugs. Quite a few of my plants have been destroy by these bugs. I your idea reinforce my design that i have and will make it more stronger. When I build it (it is not gonna be as massive as yours) i will send you some pics. Thanks for posting!

Julietta from Barbados

# 113 David Says: June 1st, 2010 at 10:09 am

113.

What would be the best way to cut the rebar? I’ve heard circular saw with a diamond blade and I’ve heard bolt cutters…




114.

David – I used a metal chopsaw. (The grinding disc goes through in seconds.)

# 115 Emily Says: June 9th, 2010 at 8:46 pm

115.

My husband built a small one. We started with the hoop, but then gave up and built a simple wood frame on top of our raised bed (so its a “rectangle house” now) and covered it with plastic and tuck tape and a few nails. Cutting the plastic with a razor blade. Leaving one side with a door that you lift (secured with wood latch). This is obviously not a fantastic design as rain water accumulates and adds weight to the top, we’ve propped a garden rake in the middle almost like a tent pole, this works ok! We need to peak the middle in some other appropriate manner, however this still works and is very easy. Crops are growing well so far

# 116 gill Says: August 11th, 2010 at 10:17 am

116.

i have one acre in canada(bc) if i want to build greenhouse in 1 acre how much it will cost me????(i think i have to build 6 or 7 in one acre) i want to grow vegetables in greenhouse and sell them to local markets if u know anything about it plz help me thank you very much

# 117 Sandy Says: September 17th, 2010 at 7:04 pm

117.

We are looking at putting this up in a 20′ x 50′ to over winter our pastured poultry with deep bedding. Any thoughts on building one this big? Our budget is small as we’re just beginning. Our hens have been in Salatin style pasture shelters all year but by November 1 we need to bring them in for winter protection.

# 118 Vicki Says: September 22nd, 2010 at 3:12 pm

118.

I built my frame today but we had to make it 10×32 due to size limitations of this part of our yard. I was wondering if I would still use the 20 foot PVC pipes…I thought that it would just make the GH a little taller..do you see any other problems with this modification?

Thanks!!!

# 119 Dave Says: September 22nd, 2010 at 6:57 pm

119.

Vicki, I see no problem. As long as your pvc pipes can handle the strain of bending that far, it should work great! Be sure to send us a picture!

# 120 Aanee @ Flowers Dublin Says: September 23rd, 2010 at 2:58 am

120.

Mate, Thats a great tutorial. I cant believe you detailed the whole thing. BIG THANKS Aanee xxxx

# 121 Christopher Says: October 12th, 2010 at 8:29 pm

121.



Use black zip ties only as clear, natural will disintegrate within one season due to sunlight. A small investment in better materials will save lots of time.

# 122 Span Tech Says: October 30th, 2010 at 10:58 am

122.

Span-Tech Buildings Please check out our line of fabric buildings.

# 123 Farmer Matt Says: November 10th, 2010 at 6:02 am

123.

Hi everyone, I am going to build my hoophouse with these plans, looks realy good. One question, I live in Californis where in Feb. we still get some cold mornings and some groung fog. I grow heirloom tomato’s and start them from seed, how hard is it to keep the hoophouse warm at night, with a heater will it stay warm.

Thank’s Matt


124.

Farmer Matt, I put a small 1500w space heater in my greenhouse on the cold nights and it keeps it about 7 degrees C. (or about 12 degrees F.) warmer than the outside temperature.

# 125 Farmer Matt Says: November 10th, 2010 at 8:05 pm

125.

Hi Dave, where is the best place to buy the 6mm roll. I can not find one around in our area. Do you know the best place to purchase a roll, I live in Nor Cal.

Thank’s Matt

# 126 Dave Says: November 10th, 2010 at 8:21 pm

126.

Farmer Matt,

I really can’t direct you to a local supplier for 6mm – but I would recommend checking out http://www.northerngreenhouse.com/ for 11mm – they ship out of North Dakota.

# 127 Farmer Matt Says: November 14th, 2010 at 6:33 pm

127.

Hi Dave, I am 6ft-2in., what is the height of the greenhouse.

Thank’s, found some good deals on some 6mm film.

Matt

# 128 david Says: November 28th, 2010 at 1:56 am

128.

fantastic tutorial!!

I noticed in the material list that your design uses 1/2 ” PVC for the hoop. While most the designs from other sites used 3/4″ PVC, could you please clerify.

Thanks in advance.




129.

David – my most recent greenhouse does have 3/4″ PVC. It probably is the better pipe to use. I’ve updated my post to reflect this. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

# 130 Ray Says: January 2nd, 2011 at 9:12 am

130.

Dave, Thanks for the tutorial.

I live in Atlanta, Georgia. My hoop house is 12 by 16 for a total cost of $120 (USD). Everything was purchased from Lowes.

It is now my retreat when I need to get out of the house. The growth pattern of vegetation in the hoop house is substantial compared to outside. And this is after I gave up heating it.

Again thanks for your tutorial. Ray – Atlanta, Georgia

# 131 bluey Says: January 30th, 2011 at 9:35 am

131.

just want to thank so much looked at alot of websites and not alot of if or pics then i found yours thanks for sharing your info. TO ALL WHO READ THIS IF YOU LIKE THIS IDEA ALSO CHECK OUT AQUAPONICS IT’S REALY EASY, AND A GREAT IDEA THIS GREENHOUSE WOULD BE PERFECT FOR IT. THANKS VERY VERY MUCH.

# 132 Dawkta Says: February 7th, 2011 at 8:46 am

132.

Please be mindful of the use of PVC- its manufacture creates dioxin in our environment. In Canada especially, First People have dioxin in water due to PVC manufacturing. Please be mindful in the use of toxic and energy hog (plastic) materials. http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PVC-Primary-Contributor-Dioxin.htm LOVE your design- what is substitute for PVC? Check it out for yourself…dioxin present in many Canadian rivers- related to plants manufacturing PVC- Be mindful of plastics based on lots of oil production. Reuse- recycle- PVC is BAD idea for gardens- please research it yourself. Not environmentally safe.

# 133 christian Says: February 7th, 2011 at 12:40 pm

133.

Dave, Great design. Thank for sharing. I want to make this green house but would like it about 7-8ft tall. At least in the center. Could you recommend a way to do that?

Thanks a million Christian

# 134 garrett Says: February 16th, 2011 at 4:37 pm

134.



Dave if i use ¾” x 20’white pvc pipe but pushed closer together so the hoop house will be 7′ x 32′ but a little taller than yours here. would i still need a 20′ x 50′ poly roll or could i getaway with using a 16′ x 50′ piece of poly?


135.

Garrett, I think you would still need the full 20′ width to cover the 20′ pvc pipe.


136.

Christian, as long as the pvc pipes can handle the extra stress, you can make the width a little narrower, thus making it higher.

# 137 ken Says: February 26th, 2011 at 11:45 am

137.

Dave: I’ve, I’ve been biting my nails all month trying to figure out how to get myself a greenhouse that doesn’t break the bank – and I am very excited to have stumbled upon you design here. Looks good, great price. One question (I hope this hasn’t already been asked): what is the difference in day and nighttime temps in the hoophouse compared to outside? This may be hard to answer since a sunny day would probably result in much higher temps in the structure. On average though? Thanks again Dave


138.

Ken: This is a tough question to answer. Weather, ventilation, etc… all play a part in temperature. I haven’t made an extensive study of this, but I would guess that daytime temperatures rise a good ten degrees above the outside temps. At night, since it’s not very air tight, the temperatures usually end up about the same by morning, but it takes much longer for the inside temperature to fall.

# 139 Obafemi Says: March 3rd, 2011 at 7:52 am

139.

I am trying to build a hoop house with dimensions of 30′x70′…how much extra material will I need to meet those measurements?

# 140 Dale Says: March 4th, 2011 at 12:25 pm

140.

Hey Dave, really like the hoophouse. I am going to build one similar to your design but am going to add 3′ vertical sides so I can utilize the space closer tho the sides of the house. I am going to use 1 1/2 inch PVC and was wondering how far apart, in your opinion can I space the hoops?

Dale

# 141 Dave Says: March 4th, 2011 at 4:15 pm

141.

Obafemi: If you want to go 30′ wide, you’ll probably want to go with a stronger structure than PVC. Perhaps look into steel structures?


142.



Dale: Good idea with the sides. That’ll give you lots more workable space. The spacing is a tough call… I’ve never tried working with 1.5″ PVC, so I’m mostly just guessing. But I might try 4′ spacing. Much more than that and I’d be afraid of snow collecting on the roof in the sags.

# 143 Dale Says: March 4th, 2011 at 5:26 pm

143.

Thats what I was thinking 4′ should be good.

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144.

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# 145 Barb Says: March 16th, 2011 at 8:52 am

145.

Just wondering what schedule PVC you’re using and where you find it. Home Depot in Sask doesn’t have any 20′lengths. I see coiled schedule 40 but I assume that is too flexible and expensive. Thanks.


146.

Barb: Quite honestly, I’m not sure of the schedule. But I’m sure coiled PVC would be too flexible!

# 147 Melissa Says: March 25th, 2011 at 12:59 pm

147.

Where did you purchase the plastic covering, I am having a hard time find it?


148.

Melissa: NorthernGreenhouse.com

# 149 4athanial Says: April 6th, 2011 at 4:40 pm

149.

That is cool. one question where is this one in the pictures


150.

Nathanial: This greenhouse is located just southeast of Red Deer, Alberta.

# 151 Alan Says: April 10th, 2011 at 11:17 am

151.

Dave, you inspired me. I’m gonna build a large hoophouse but instead of covering it with plastic, we’re gonna use netting to keep the deer out. Perhaps after the Fall we’ll enclose the structure with greenhouse film. We’ll see. I do have a question for you; I’d like to make my hoophouse wider, so am considering using three 10-foot pieces of grey schedule 40 pvc piping that have a flared end to allow for easy joining of the ends. Will that work? Gonna use 1″ pipe. Will it be stable enough?

Thanks again for posting this great design and the info to go with it. You rock…!!




152.

Alan: That should work – as the netting should have much weight. You might need some sort of angle braces. But give it a try – see how it turns out!

# 153 Holly Says: April 11th, 2011 at 5:42 pm

153.

Dave,

I am looking into the different widths available in plastic. Do you know how wide my greenhouse can be if I go with a plastic that is 10′ in width? Thanks!


154.

Holly: It all depends on how high you want it. 10′ wide plastic isn’t much. Perfectly round, you’d have about six feet wide and three feet tall.

# 155 Brandon Says: April 12th, 2011 at 1:51 pm

155.

Hello everyone. just got about 60 percent done with my green house but yet mine is only 12X24 and im 100 bucks on with the wood frame dirt moved and flat rebar in and pvc and fitting hooked up but i used 10 feet pvc then took a cross and combined them with a tee at the end all i need it 2×4 for the door witch im making alittle smaller and the tarp witch is 6 mil for 80 buck its 14×55 at greenhousemegastore.com i love there stuff there and i have all plant ready to go and btw i live in northern illinois rockford! it just hit 86 on sunday! highest ever in history its gunna be a good growing summer! YEAHHHH!


156.

Dave, Thank you for your response to my previous question. 10′ definitely will not be enough for what we want.

Could you help me out with figuring out how much plastic we need to get. I want to make sure I’m thinking of the calculations correctly.

Desired dimensions: width: 8′ length: 16′ height: 6’5″

So, in my calculating, we would want about 16′ x 30′ of plastic….is that right?


157.

Holly: I went to this site (http://www.csgnetwork.com/circumellipse.html) to figure out exactly how much you need. At 8′ wide and 6’6″ high, your arc would be about 17′. So in order to give yourself a bit of overhang, I would recommend getting 20′ wide. Then for your length, I would also add some for overhang – so if you want 16′ of greenhouse, buy your plastic 18′ to 20′ long.

# 158 Alan Says: April 13th, 2011 at 5:51 pm

158.

Hi Dave –



Thanks for the response and encouragement. What do you mean by angle braces? Where would you put them? Attached to what? How large? I feel like Vinnie Barbarino… so confused! Thanks


159.

Dave,

First of all, thank you for your previous help on questions! I do have another question though!

In your instructions above you use the wood lathe with screws or nails to secure the plastic to the greenhouse. I have seen another instruction that encourages using “wiggle wire” to secure the plastic because the plastic does not get broken in any place with those (compared to putting a nail or screw through it). However, the wiggle wire set is going to be at least $60 and I am making my greenhouse on a budget. From your experience, does the plastic still hold up pretty well even though you put screws through it?

Thank you! -Holly


160.

Holly: When I used 6 mil plastic, I did get some ripping. But since I started using 11 mil, I haven’t had an issue. Alan: You might just have to experiment a little! I’ve braced with airplane cable, more PVC pipe, or wood. You just need to keep the structure from folding over like dominos!

# 161 ruth Says: April 20th, 2011 at 7:29 pm

161.

Amazing and affordable Thankyou!!!!!

# 162 Cally Says: May 16th, 2011 at 6:36 pm

162.

Hi there, I saw the plans on this site and I love it. It is simple and I think I can do it myself ( I think I might just suprise my Hubby). This will be a great project for my children (I homeschool). My question is, Can I use gray electrical pvc instead of white? Or is there a structural reason for using the white


163.

Cally: I use the white so that the sun doesn’t heat up the pipe and weaken the plastic.

# 164 Cally Says: May 17th, 2011 at 4:27 pm

164.

Hi again, what other material can be used to cover a green house besides plastic? Also, Is lathe a special piece of wood? or can any type of thin piece of wood be used?

# 165 Aktom Says: May 23rd, 2011 at 1:59 pm

165.

I live in Alaska, and like reusing material-I am collecting old wood frame sliding door panels as everyone is changing over leaving a lot of dual pane panels 36″ wide, easy number to work with, built one two years ago-very successful and have pulled it apart to use in a larger system this fall-have 8 panels and will fill the gaps with corrugated plex and retasked windows to make moveable openings for access and ventilation. In



the mean time I am trying the pvc/plastic to get past the “chill” in the air here while I renovate. I left my old set up in place over the winter here in heavy snow load and sub freeze temps and the glass survived, it was a test actually-I expected some horizontal panels would crack-they didn’t. I collected all my panels in my neighborhood, you will be surprised at whats available if you look.

# 166 Brett Says: May 26th, 2011 at 1:45 pm

166.

We much need direction in choosing the best plastic covering for the intense Arizona sun. Regular 6 mil non-uv plastic (from Home Depot) deteriorated and fell to pieces in only 2 months of exposure. Also, some contributors point out the hazard of the PVC piping frame vapor deteriorating all varieties of plastic cover. We would like to obtain a plastic that is genuinely UV resistant and can last at least a couple of years. All suggestions are gratefully invited and welcomed.

# 167 Michael Says: May 27th, 2011 at 2:16 pm

167.

i live in Montreal and am really having trouble to find the 20′ PVC .. So far i’ve tried Rona – Homedepot – Renot-depot – home hardware .. with no luck .. they only have 12 foot pieces. Did you use pressure PVC 3/4 inch schedule 40 or 80 ? Here (emco corp ) i can find some 3/4 pvc in 20 foot lengths but it’s all made in schedule 80 thickness .. is it going to be possible to bend this thicker pipe into a 12 foot arc ? The guy at the plumbing store that sells it ( ipex ) thinks not. What is the thickness of the PVC that you used ? Thanks great site !

# 168 Richard Groseclose Says: May 29th, 2011 at 11:41 am

168.

To make the hoop house more wind resistant, use a length of baling twine or equivalent over each hoop (outside the plastic) except the end ones. Use a short piece of something that won’t rot (household copper wire?) around each piece of rebar and secure the the bailing twine to this to keep the twine out out of the mud. I learned this at a low cost hoop house construction project sponsored by the Western Nevada College Specialty Crop Insititure. The instructor is from Univ of Southern Utah. See “Constructing a Low-cost High Tunnel”, “illistrated web version”, extension.usu.edu/publications. This method is similar to yours but incorporates a ventilation door at each end.

# 169 Dave Says: May 31st, 2011 at 2:25 pm

169.

Michael: I’m not really sure whether I used 40 or 80. Sorry. Might have to just try one!

# 170 Brandon Says: June 6th, 2011 at 9:06 am

170.

Hello greenhouse is done and has tons of plants in it check out my videos on youtube username is greenhouse4green. i found a way to heat it all year long from where i am in northern illinois double do the plastic but on the inside insulate dorrs very well ply wood both ends and put a propain heater in the greenhouse and make a fan the goes between the two layers of plastic using the hot heat from the propain burner

# 171 Peter Says: June 13th, 2011 at 4:04 am

171.

Hi Dave, I have enjoyed your article on the PVC greenhouse. I live in a part of Canada that most winters receives a far lot of snow and wind. Would you advise building a greenhouse 20′ wide? I would like one about 20′x60′ with plastic covering one half the length and netting covering the rest.What would be your idea for



hoop spacing and the size of the tubing to support this structure. I appreciate all the comments on your site as well as your advise.

Blessings, Peter


172.

Peter: I would be nervous about building a 20′ wide out of PVC in a place with lots of snow. My 12′ greenhouse has been greatly bent (but not broken) by wet spring snow – I’m not sure a 20′ span could handle that much snow. You might want to look at a different type of tubing – perhaps 1′ electrical conduit or rebar? (Although I imagine that might cost a bit more.) And you would certainly want lots of angle bracing – rebar would work great for that. Another option might be an A-Frame style greenhouse. Take a look at this page for more information on that. http://www.northerngreenhouse.com/ideas/how_to/aframe.htm

# 173 Doug Says: June 13th, 2011 at 10:46 am

173.

I live in Ontario and would not have the room for a greenhouse of this size but would like to see if one could be made 12 feet by 15 feet. I would not heat the greenhouse in winter so I am not sure if the plastic would need to be taken off and wondered what you recommend? How easy is it to build as I am no handyman with tools. Also is attaching the plastic difficult?

# 174 brandon Says: June 15th, 2011 at 8:58 am

174.

# 175 Chris Says: June 16th, 2011 at 5:03 pm

175.

This works so well. i am working gor some family friends and i built this for them they love it.

thanks for who ever desighned this


176.

Doug: I don’t heat my greenhouse through the winter either, and I leave my plastic on year-round. I would only take the plastic off if you get a heavy snow load in the winter. As to construction, it is pretty simple. If



you can measure, cut, and operate a cordless drill, you’ll be fine! The plastic can be tricky, but if you have one or two people to help, it shouldn’t be a problem.

# 177 Doug Says: June 18th, 2011 at 9:26 pm

177.

Thanks Dave. I would like to try and build the 12 x 15 size and see how I make out. It would sure give me a jump start on my veggie plants and bedding plants.

# 178 Truong Says: June 24th, 2011 at 12:29 pm

178.

Hi brett. have you check into a website call (northerngreenhouse.com) they do carried 11 ml clear superstrong woven poly with UV resistant and it can last for years. the price is more expensive than ordinary 6ml greenhouse UV resistant plastic but the quality is well worth it. I did purchase 20′x23′ for my hoop house and it cost me $222 include GST and shipping.

# 179 Steve Says: July 13th, 2011 at 8:18 pm

179.

I have seen a few references to using metal conduit for the hoops, but nothing as to the diameter. Is 1/2″ metal conduit too small for a 10′ wide hoop house? I have used it for smaller row covers and it seems stronger than 3/4″ pvc. Any suggestions?


180.

Steve: I would think that 1/2″ metal conduit would be plenty strong – though I have not tried it myself.

# 181 Dan Says: July 19th, 2011 at 1:00 pm

181.

I like you plans a lot. Well done. I plan on trying it out with a few modifications to fit my garden area. My questions is, how do plants inside a greenhouse get pollenated?


182.

Dan: In my greenhouse I have both the back and front doors open nearly all summer. I only close them on cold spring and fall nights. Thus, there are just as many bugs & bees (maybe more) inside the greenhouse as there are outside.

# 183 Susan V. Says: July 20th, 2011 at 12:45 pm

183.

Hi Dave, We’re just starting to research how to build one here in mid- Missouri and were thinking about using steel cattle panels. Do you have any ideas or feedback on this. We wanted to use stuff we already had on hand. Also not sure about how to attach 2 layers of poly and does everyone need 2 layers?

# 184 Dave Says: July 21st, 2011 at 8:24 am

184.

Susan: I don’t have any experience with using steel panels – but if that’s what you have, I’m sure you can make it work… I’m just not sure how. As to the double layer of poly – it certainly helps hold the heat in. I only use one layer, but I don’t run through the winter. I just avoid those early and late frosts…

When you get it all figured out and put together, I’d love to see some pictures of how you did it!



# 185 Steve Says: August 10th, 2011 at 8:02 am

185.

Awesome design, any ideas on how to keep out gophers with out chemicals?

# 186 Corey Says: August 11th, 2011 at 8:12 pm

186.

Hi Dave

How do you irrigate? I don’t believe I saw any posts on watering. I am assuming drip tape would be recommended?

Thanks Corey

# 187 Cynthia Says: August 14th, 2011 at 9:43 am

187.

Hello! I wanted to thank you for your great step-by-step website. We used yur basic design to build a 12′ x 16′ chicken coop. Using the PVC allowed us to make a bigger coop for the same price. We added a 3′ riser wall out of wood to protect the chicks from racoons and stray dogs and to raise the celing height for more comfort. It has really worked out great and my chickens love it! Thank you!

# 188 Dave Says: August 20th, 2011 at 8:56 am

188.

Corey: I just have a soaker hose on a timer. Drip tape would be excellent as it controls the water flow a bit better than a soaker hose.

# 189 Loralee Says: August 20th, 2011 at 10:03 pm

189.

Hi Dave, Thank you so much for sharing your ideas and expertise here. I have a question that I don’t think anyone else has asked. My teenage son just needs a small warm place to keep his cactus/succulent collection in the winter. (And he needs it to be VERY inexpensive) We live in the north San Francisco Bay Area, so it only gets as low as low 30′s regularly, and sometimes mid-20′s. (He actually had to keep his collection outside last winter and it survived, though not well, and he lost one.) Anyway, how small a space can be made; I mean, I have no idea how tight a PVC curve can be. Hopefully this makes sense… Thanks

# 190 Dave Says: August 24th, 2011 at 9:33 pm

190.

Loralee: The size of your PVC pipe will determine how small an area you can make. With shorter, smaller diameter pipes, you can make a very small space. If you want something very small (like a square foot), PVC might not be the best frame. But something around 4×4 feet, would work fine with lightweight pipe.

# 191 nick c. Says: September 8th, 2011 at 11:33 am

191.

Hello Dave and all the great people who contribute all thse nice info here… you guys sure are great and I admire all of you for doing so much for your self and the planet.

I am planning to build a greenhouse for the first time ever and I am scared that I will not be able to grow much since I do not know how to grow in a green house.



I had veggie garden for a long time when my mother was alive but I was not doing all the work so I am not sure I can grow any plans in a greenhouse by mys elf with out help from someone who know what to do and how.

I live in Wahago, between Orillia and Gravenhurs In Ontario, Canada.

Very cold here in the winter… but would love to have fresh, organic greens in the winter.

Please share with me what can I do and how and perhaps some one close to me can email me at [email protected] and so we share what we know and some how assist to get going with the greenhouse project …

I know this is a lot… but need to ask, hope I will receive answers and assistance… so I can get going and then share with all of you the results hoping will assist other in my similar situation.

Thanks in advance to you all. Regards.. nick

# 192 Rodney Says: September 18th, 2011 at 12:08 am

192.

Looks Great! TWO Comments. #1. The Zip Ties that you use on the top perlin should be black rather thant the white. The black is UV proof where as the white are not and will break in just a few months. #2. My Greenhouse plastic supplier told me to paint my PVC hoops with laytex paint to stop the reaction between the Plastic and the PVC. They have found that by doing this the plastic cover last much longer. Rodney

# 193 Sam Says: September 23rd, 2011 at 1:17 pm

193.

I just had a quick question what is the inside height of this design after completion? I stand about 6’2″ and was just wondering about head room.

Thanks Sam

# 194 Conservatories Prices Says: September 25th, 2011 at 3:35 am

194.

That’s one fine looking greenhouse. it’s not quite that sturdy but I guess that will do in most areas where the weather is not severe. Thanks for the share!

# 195 Dave Says: September 26th, 2011 at 7:00 am

195.

Sam: My greenhouse has about 6’5″ at the peak.

# 196 MISTY BLAKELY Says: September 29th, 2011 at 7:26 am

196.

Love your plans for a greenhouse. I am building a small 6 ft square greenhouse with a 6 inch slope to the roof out of 1 inch pvc pipes. I have rolls of this really heavy gage tinted vinyl that is used to be adhered to windows for insulation from the sun that I plan to sew together into sheets to cover my greenhouse. This vinyl is designed to keep a house cool in summer and warm in the winter. I live in Central Florida where we only have occasional deep overnight freezes for maybe 5 to 6 hours during the winter. I want to start vegetable seedlings early in it. Is there an inexpensive way for me to heat it given the small area and type of



covering that I plan to use? I’m on a fixed income and don’t have a lot of money to play with. If I were to use high wattage lamp, would that be sufficient in that small space?

# 197 Dave Says: October 3rd, 2011 at 7:04 am

197.

Misty: I would think that a heat lamp in those conditions should be plenty to keep it above freezing.

# 198 dani Says: October 17th, 2011 at 11:12 am

198.

my school is proposing to build a green house. would this be a good and inexspensive way to go about things -Dani porter high school, Porter TX


199.

Dani: I think this would be a great, inexpensive greenhouse for your school! Go for it!

# 200 Cindi Says: October 30th, 2011 at 9:19 am

200.

My husband built me a greenhouse (lucky me!!) It is approximately 12×10

He cut piping into one inch to clip the plastic together. At the end there is two 6ml pieces of plastic connected to the 1/2 inch PCV. It is very windy today and the clips are slipping.

Also, he attached two boards to the plastic at the bottom of the sides but the wind is getting in. .

He did not secure the PCV pipes with rebar. They are just put in the ground about 1 foot.

We are in Nova Scotia so it is quite windy.

Suggestions would be appreciated.



# 201 Cindi Says: October 31st, 2011 at 2:14 pm

201.

Update…

We had a major wind and rain storm last night. The ends survived the storm but the top blew off dispite the boards secured to the bottom and the clips blew into the air..

My husband screwed on the clips but he thinks that they might put a hole in the plastic under strain of snow or rain.

Any suggestions…

# 202 Dave Says: October 31st, 2011 at 2:31 pm

202.

Cindi: You really need to something solid to nail/screw/somehow attach the plastic to. I have a wooden base and wooden ends so that I can nail my plastic directly to that. And with that, when you are attaching your plastic, don’t just put the nail directly through the plastic – the nail head will rip right through. You need more surface area – I’ve used thin strips of wood or plastic to nail through (See step #4 of the above article.)

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