am thuc va le hoi truyen thong
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Banh khuc, so delicious!Banh khuc is a traditional cake of Vietnam and so delicious!
The cake is a rice ball made of glutinous rice mixed with cudweed (khuc)-most important ingredient and filled with
green bean paste, pork, and spices.
Cudweed grows during lunar January and February, when the drizzling rain lasts all day, andit can be found along the edges of rice fields. There are two kinds: nep and te. The latteris ore fle!ible and fragrant and is preferred for aking the cake.
First, the cudweed is washed, ground and then i!ed with husked glutinous rice. "reenbeans, that are flayed and turned into paste after being cooked, are then added to the i!ture.Finally, the cakes are sprinkled with grains of glutinous steaed rice.
#s tie goes by it is increasingly difficult to find cudweed as fields are eaten up byde$elopent. For now, you still can find banh khuc in %anoi. %owe$er, soe bakers ay
not be using cudweed and ay substitute it with cabbage or water orning glory.&ishing to ha$e the chance to satisfy your hunger for banh khuc, you can $isit cake stall at'( )guyen Cong Tru *treet, that has been churning out banh khuc for years. +s. )guyenThi an, the seller, has to hire locals in rural areas in %anoi or in neighbouring pro$inces toseek out the elusi$e cudweed. -n winter, it grows in abundance so enough has to be collectedto last the suer. The surplus will be dried and stored.
-f you are in the old uarter of %anoi, you ight hear soeone cry #i banh khuc nong day/0who wants hot banh khuc/1. 2ou can stop the and ask if the banh khuc is fro )goai%oang $illage in %a )oi, a place that is faous for ha$ing the ost delicious and tasty banhkhuc. Then, you can buy one for tasting. The cake should be ser$ed hot and dipped into a
i!ture of roasted and crushed sesae seeds and salt...
Cm - Autumns special gift"Cm" (green sticky rice)is a delicacy that is made only in autumn and cherished by all Vietnamese. For
Hanoians nothing eokes autumn like the taste of young rice from Vong illage the grain so seetly
scented that they left a lasting im#ression...
Served with red persimmons or ripe bananas, "!m" is trul delicious. #ong village, on the outskirts of$anoi, is
said to produce the best "!m" in northern #ietnam. %hen autumn comes, $anoians everwhere alwas
remember the special taste of "!m" which is a special gift from the soil made b hard-working peasants, holdinga simple and fresh fragrance.
3$ery autun, when the cool north4westerly wind brings a cold dew, the sticky rice ears bendthesel$es into arches waiting for ripe grains because these rice grains are at their fullest andthe rice4ilk is already concentrated in the grains, and the local farers will know it is tie toake C5 6 a specialty ade fro young green sticky rice.
7C57 is often eaten by hand, directly fro the lotus lea$es, a pinch at a tie. &hen eatingC5, you ust en8oy slowly and chew $ery deliberately in order to appreciate all thescents, tastes, and plasticity of the young rice which is sweet, nutty and buttery.
From the complicated process...
9isitors to %anoi during the 7C57 aking season are in$ited to go to 9ong 9illage wherethey will ha$e a chance to listen to the special rhythic pounding of wooden pestles against
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ortars filled with young rice and see woen shifting and winnowing the pounded youngrice.
-n 9ong $illage, aking C5 used to be a coon trade. eople fro 9ong $illage aresaid to ha$e the ost coplicated process for aking 7C57. Firstly, glutinous paddy is
planted. To produce their faous 7C57, residents of 9ong $illage grow a special $ariety ofsticky rice. The sticky rice ust be har$ested at 8ust the right oent. &hen the paddy beginsto ripen and still contains ilk it is reaped but only at early dawn. The rice is plucked offanually so that the grains are not broken. )e!t, the choice grains are carefully selected,sifted and washed. #t night, the grains are dried in a large pan
over a soft fire and then pounded in stone mortars.
&ollowing this, the oung rice is removed from the
mortar and winnowed before being poured again into
the mortar and the process repeated. This is then
repeated exactl seven times so that all the husk is
removed from the oung stick grains. There is an art
to this part of the process. 'f the pounding is done
irregularl and in haste, or it is not repeated seventimes, the green colour of the grains will disappear and
be replaced b an unexpected brown colour. Then the
whole process will have been to no avail because
customers will refuse to bu such produce. This should
go some wa to explaining exactl how difficult the
whole process of "!m" making is.
)ot e$ery one can dry and pound 7C57. -t is a closely guarded secret in soe failies thatis ne$er re$ealed to the others or daughters; says etter than any other person, peasants are the only ones who truly understand when the riceears are ripe enough to be reaped to begin aking C5. Fro then on, C5 is stilla$ailable, howe$er, as it is used in different local specialties.
!m is an ingredient used in man specialities of #ietnam, including !m x*o (browned green stick rice),
+nh c!m (green stick rice cake) and h c!m (sweetened green stick rice paste) and so on.
>?nh c5 is the well4known as it is found at e$ery engageent cereony. The cakes are
wrapped with bananas lea$es into suares, tied with a red string and staped on the outsidewith a Chinese character eaning 7double happiness7. &ith these characteristics, >?nh c5is belie$ed to be a sybol of steadfast and eternal lo$e.
"reen sticky rice cakes are sold on %ang Than *treet. *ticky cakes stuffed with green rice aresold on %ang @ieu *treet and Auoc %uong green rice paste is sold on %ang >ong *treet.Bestaurants also offer dishes in$ol$ing C5, such as chicken stewed with herbs and greenrice, or green rice ser$ed with fried shrip.
Nowadays, thanks to convenient means of transport, many Hanoians send VongVillages "Cm" to their relatives in other parts of the country, and even abroad, as a special
gift !y this way, the delicious taste of "Cm" always stays in the hearts of Hanoianswherever they live o those who have ever been involved in farming, eating "Cm" oftenreminds them of a fresh and fragrant paddy
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mai a dilicious nosh!O MAI WAS SALTEDdry apricot or sugared dry apricot that is a favourite nosh for many people in
Hanoi and other provinces
ai is produced for traditional ethod, since chosing aterial, the copany also sendstaff to gardens in %ung 2en, %ai %ung, %oa >inh, ai Chau in order to gather all crop ofkinds of sour fresh fruit like plu, apricot, dracontoelu, star, taarind, kuuat, pineaple,canari, leon. That is the secret of %ang @uong e!perts, they plus sugar, ginger, add chilli,stir liuorice to ha$e sooth yellow food with sweet4selling.
This product is for instant all year and you can en8oy with a pot of tea and a few friends tochat. This is also $aluable present fro %a )oipeople gi$ing to their friends.
How to make dried apricot#
-f you would like to ake dried apricot, you can use the following recipe and you can ake
the perfect nosh. First, you soak the apricots in water to co$er o$ernight. Then, place the tocook in the sae water. Cook until tender. +ash the or chop in blender. #fter that, peel,core, and cut the pineapple into sall pieces. Co$er with water and cook until tender.+easure the fruits and 8uices. ast, place eual aounts of sugar with the easured fruits intoa hea$y kettle and cook slowly until thick and clear.
Banh gio Pamidal ice dumpling$ot eeryone can eat "banh gio". %et it is ery easy to get addicted to it. &hat is true!
This simple dish sold in countr markets has become a favorite breakfast of man $anoians. eople can find this
dish in small stands on an street in$anoi. The stands are alwas crowed with diners. $anoians can en/o this
dish at an time, at breakfast, lunch or post-lunch.
0lthough pramidal rice dumpling is simple, it is ver good and health, especiall its appealing fragrance. This
white and smooth dumpling is wrapped in green banana leaf, which is regarded as the 1uintessence of heaven
and earth.
The pramidal rice dumpling is made from a few ingredients including plain rice flour, minced lean meat, cat2s ear,
onion and mushroom. The process of stirring and kneading flour is the most important, which decides the
deliciousness of the dumpling. rocessing the dumpling flour is a secret handed from generation to generation.
Some famous makers of pramidal rice dumpling said that the bought flour in $a 3ong 3istrict but still kept
secret what kind of flour was. Therefore, it is not eas to make delicious rice dumplings.
0fter soaking in water, flour is dried, which is similar to the kind of banh te (rice cake). This flour is continousldissolved in water when being cooked. 0fter 45 minutes, the flour turns pure white and viscid, which means it is
well-cooked. Then the flour is placed on phrnium leaf and wrapped with meat. These rice dumplings are then put
into the boiling water for 67 minutes. 0fter that, pramidal rice dumplings are picked up. eople can feel the
fragrance of the filling, rice flour and the special smell of phrnium or banana leaf. 't is so great to serve this dish
with sour vegetable pickles, which makes good taste8 therefore, some people can eat two or three dumplings at a
time.
Sitting in crowded stands, feeling hungry and enjoying this dish, you will find it a pleasure in life...
Pho "ice nooddle soup#ho, a tpical dish of $anoi people, has been existing for a long time. ho is prepered not onl in a sophisticated
manner but also in the techni1ue which is re1uired to have sweet but pure bouillon, soft but not crasded noodle,
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soft and sweet smelling meat. 9nl in cold das, having a hot and sweet smelling bowl of ho to en/o would
make ou experience the complete flavor of the special dish of $anoi.
The bouillon.
>oil DE cups water. >urn the whole fresh onions o$er high heat until golden brown. #dd beefspareribs or o! tail into the boiling water. *ki while cooking to ake a clear broth. #dd
browned onion and carrots after D hour of boiling. Cook another hour. Then reo$e eat and$egetable. *train the bouillon, season it with spices, salt, fish sause as indicated and keepboiling to ser$er $ery hot soup. #dd boiled water, if necessary, to ha$e '4 cups of bouillon.This broth is $ery spicy and a little salty.
*lice tender beef finely and cooked beef coarsely. *oak dry rice noodles in hot water DEinutes before cooking. Coolk rice noodles sparately until done 0about DE4DG inutes1, drainin hot water to reo$e the starch.
Server at once into bowl.
>eef soup, rare: cooked rice noodles DHI bowl, raw beef inced on top. our o$er the one
cup boiling bouillon. #dd bib lettuce, green onion and onion rings.>eef soup, done: cooked rice noodles, cooked beef, bib lettuce, onion rings, green onion intop. our o$er all ingredients D cup boiling bouillon.
ro$ide the guests with spoons and chopstichs to take the soup.
Banh cuon "olled ice pancake#'mong Vietnams delicate s#ecialties "bnh cun* ranks to# thanks to its softness seet fragance of
cinnamon dried onion and strong taste of minced meat and sources!
0mong other members of the extended noodle famil, bnh cunalmost ranks first. 't is a paper-thin steamed
rice flour pancake, much like delicate sheets of fresh rice noodles. The pancakes are plucked off of the linen
steamer base, and immediatel rolled with minced pork and mushrooms, then piled on a plate, sprinkled with
deep fried shallots, snipped with scissors into bite si:ed sections, and topped with fresh herbs such as cilantro or
#ietnamese basil. 0 plate of bnh cu!n is a light dish traditionall eaten as breakfast in $anoi but now can also be
found as a late night snack.
To eat, dip a section of rolled noodle goodness into the accompaning warm fish sauce broth, brightened with a
s1uee:e of fresh lime. ;ou can also pick the leaves off the herbs and add them to the dipping sauce, grabbing a
leaf or two as ou dip, or ou can follow each bite with a chaser of herbs. +nh cu!n are often eaten with different
sides of pork sausages, including sheets of an orange hued, roasted cinnamon sausage called ch qu.
+here to find it,
0 short walk north of $*ng 3a u street will bring ou to Bnh Cun Thanh Vn, /ust look forthe bnh cu!n station?two large covered steaming pots?out front along the sidewalk. @ust take a lookA The
practiced hands keep the bnh cu!n rolling out with experiences, alternating seamlessl between spreading the
thin batter on the linen base of one steamer, then at right time, turning to the other to peel the delicatel steamed
pancake off the linen base with a bamboo stick. + the time the batter is spread on its newl emptied linen base,
the pancake in the first steamer is read and waiting. %ith onl B tables nestled inside the small open storefront,
the pace never slows. Serving C0
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$Banh Chung$ - the soul of %ietnamese&e' (ea!"Banh Chung" (Chung cake) is a traditional and irre#laceable cake of Vietnamese #eo#le in the &et
Holidays and -ing Hungs anniersary (/th 0arch 1unar). For the Vietnamese making "Banh Chung" is
the ideal ay to e2#ress gratitude to their ancestors and homeland.Th" #"$"nd o% & Banh Chun$&
Chung cake was in$ented by the Dth rince of %ung 3peror in the contest of looking fornew 3peror. #ccording to the legend, I,EEE4,EEE years ago, rince ang ieu, ade roundand suare cakes, the round @ay cake sybolizing the sky and the suare Chung cakesybolizing the 3arth 0under the ancient 9ietnaese perception1, to be offered on theoccasion of *pring.
-n the ancient conception, the 3arth is suare, hence Chung cakeKs shape is suare, too, toreflect the 3arth shape. *ince the cakes he offered were of special eaning and delicioustaste, ang ieu was selected to be the ne!t 3peror. *ince then, in honor of this Dth rince,
9ietnaese people always ake and ha$e Chung cake in the unar )ew 2ear. Lp to now,Chung cake has becoe the ost faous and irreplaceable traditional 9ietnaese food in Tet%oliday. This legend ais to reind the ne!t generations of the ancient tradition as well asthe priary of Chung cake. >esides, it ephasizes the iportant role of rice and nature inwater rice culture.
How to make a "Banh Chung"?
-n contrast to the fast food in odern life, the process of aking Chung cake is tie4consuing and reuires the contribution of se$eral people. +ain ingredients are glutinousrice, pork eat, and green beans wrapped in a suare of baboo lea$es that will gi$e the ricea green color after boiling. The stick rice must be ver good and was soaked in water in the previous da.Oice cake is wrapped in s1uare shape, and the wrapping power must be neither tight nor loose. Then the cake
will be boiled in about D6 hours b wood. TheFreen hung cakehas nutrition with an original tast flavor and ma
be kept for a long time. Pating hung cake with vegetable pickles will bring ou unforgettable tasteA
In the traditional conceptionof 9ietnaese people, the process of aking Chung cake isthe opportunity for faily to coe together. *itting around the war fire, all ebers in thefaily tell one another the past stories and are ready for a )ew 2ear with wishes of bestthings. )owadays, in soe big cities, the business lifestyle of odern society pre$ent peoplefro preparing the cake, howe$er, the habit of worship ancestors with Chung cake ne$erchanges. -t is the e$idence of the 9ietnaese loyalty and deep gratitude to ancestors.
)aking home a$ non la$ - that is, to takea piece of %ietnam3$on la* (translated as 3conical hat*) is not only a normal hat but also one of Vietnams symbols of
charm.
Pver countr has its own national headgear. The Qnited States has the baseball cap, +ritain is famous for the
Rondon bobbs helmet. Freece is associated with the fishermans hat, while the beret is the smbol of &rance.
The 'sraelis use the armulke and we usuall see the Saudi 0rabians in their white headdresses. 'ndian Sikhs
wrap their heads in elaborate turbans while Oussians warm their craniums with fur hats, which are of good use
even at fift 3egree elsius below :ero. 'n #ietnam, the national chapeau is the non, or conical peasant hat.
0long with the graceful silk ao dai, the non has become a sort of informal #ietnamese national smbol that is
recogni:ed worldwide.
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Ao *ai, the %ietnamese long dess&he beauty of omen dressed in 3'o 4ai*alays leaes a dee# im#ression on foreign isitors to Vietnam
The beaut of women dressed in 0o 3aialwas leaves a deep impression on foreign visitors to #ietnam. Firl
students dressed in white long robes take to streets on the wa to schools or back home, or gracefull sail on
their bikes along streets. &emale secretaries in delicate pastels greet ou at an office door and older ladies indeep shades of purple, green or blue cut a striking pose at a restaurant dinner. The 0o 3ai appears to flatter
ever figure.
Parl versions of the 0o 3aidate back to DC44 when Rord #u #uong of the Eguen 3nast decreed both men
and women should wear an ensemble of trousers and a gown that buttoned down the front. $owever, not until
DU7 did 0o 3aiappear partl similar to its look toda. Eow,
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Is making a conical hat diicult/ -f you look at a hat, it sees easily to ake. 2et, it is not;7Conical hat aking reuires painstaking precision7, said I year4old e Thi 9iet, the oldestaster of Chuong $illage where thousands of conical hats are produced e$ery day. -t istherefore considered the hoe of the conical hat in todayMs 9ietna.
To make a proper hat, not onl the maker is talent but also their experiences are plentiful. 0fter being separated
into ver thin strings during the dr season, bamboo cataphll then must be 1uickl submerged in water to
preclude tearing and breaking. The palm, after being cleaned b sand, will be torn and turned from dark green to
white after being sun-seasoned. The stronger the sun, the whiter the palms will become. &inall, to make them
whiter and to preserve the color, the will be exposed sulfur, separated and ironed. Sewing and decorating must
be sophisticated, too. ;ou have to sew small and even stitches, which means ou need time and patience.
Nnly watching craftsen sewing conical hats inside brown tile4roofed houses in Chuong$illage can gi$e you the real understanding. ooking at an old woan with crooked back,wrinkled face and shri$eled hands, itMs hard to iagine that she can hold her hands steadyenough to do the needlework, but she anages it skillfully. +y other taught e to sew nonla when - was si! years old. )ow -M inh @inh.
Chuong $illage produces
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presents. 't composes of areca nuts and betel leaves, tea, cake, fruits, wines and other delicacies which covered
with red cloth and carried b unmarried girls or bos.
1e cuoi(wedding ceremon)V
9n the wedding da, the grooms famil and relatives go to the brides house bringing a lot of gifts wrapped in red
papers. These gifts are similar to those of the engagementV betel leaves and areca nuts, wines, fruits, cakes,
tea ... The persons hold these tras are also carefull chosen, usuall the are happil married couples. Radies
and women are all dressed in 0go 3ai.
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&or the #ietnamese people, #ietnamese Eew ;ear is like a combination of %estern Saint Slvester, Eew ;ears
3a, hristmas, Paster and Thanksgiving. 't is the festival of urit and Oenewal.
#ietnamese $ew %ear Customs
1. Clean and decorate the home
$omes are often cleaned and decorated before Eew ;ears Pve. hildren are in charge of sweeping and
scrubbing the floor. The kitchen needs to be cleaned before the 6Urd night of the last month. Qsuall, the head of
the household cleans the dust and ashes (from incense) from the ancestral altars. 't is a common belief that
cleaning the house will get rid of the bad fortunes associated with the old ear. Some people would paint their
house and decorate with festive items.
2. Literally means "getting new clothes"
This is often the most exciting part of the #ietnamese Eew ;ear among children. arents usuall purchase new
clothes and shoes for their children a month prior to the Eew ;ear. $owever, children cannot wear their new
clothes until the first da of the Eew ;ear and onward. The best outfit is alwas worn on the first da of the ear.
. !arewell ceremony for the itchen #ods $%ng &ao'
Seven das (the 6Urd night of the last lunar month) prior to Tet, each #ietnamese famil offers a farewell
ceremon for 9ng Tao to go up to $eaven alace. $is task is to make an annual report to the @ade Pmperor of
the famils affairs throughout the ear.
(. Lunar )ew *ear+s -e
$owever, in a literal translation, it means "assage from the 9ld to the Eew ;ear". 't is a common belief among
#ietnamese people that there are D6 Sacred 0nimals from the Wodiac taking turn monitoring and controlling the
affairs of the earth. Thus, Fiao Thua (Eew ;ears Pve)is the moment of seeing the old chief (3ragon for 6777)
end his ruling term and pass his power to the new chief (Snake for 677D). Fiao Thua is also the time for 9ng Tao
(Xitchen Fod) to return to earth after making the report to the @ade Pmperor. Pver single famil should offer an
open-air ceremon to welcome him back to their kitchen.
. &he Aura of the arth
Fiao Thua is the most sacred time of the ear. Therefore, the first houseguest to offer the first greeting is ver
important. 'f that particular guest has a good aura (well respected, well educated, successful, famous, etc.), then
the famil believes that the will receive luck and good fortune throughout the ear. The belief of xong dat still
remains nowadas, especiall among families with businesses.
/. Apricot flowers and peach flowers
&lower buds and blossomsare the smbols for new beginning. These two distinctive flowers are widel sold and
purchased during Tet. $oa
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This ceremon is held on the first da of the Eew ;ear before noontime. The head of the household should
perform the proper ritual (offering food, wine, cakes, fruits, and burn incense) to invite the souls of the ancestors
to /oin the celebration with the famil. This is the time families honor the souls of their ancestors and present the
welfare of the famil.
#ietnamese Eew ;ear &oods
9ne of the most traditional special foods for Eew ;ears (Tet) of #ietnamese is +anh hung or stick rice cake.+anh hung is made of stick rice, pork meat and green bean, ever ingredient is wrapper inside a special leaf
which calls 3ong. tTt, or #ietnamese Eew ;ear, is the most important celebration of #ietnamese culture. The word is a
shortened form of Tt '$u()n *n. 't features aspects of the western Thanksgiving, Eew ;ear2s 3a,
$alloween and +irthda. 't is the #ietnamese Eew ;ear marking the arrival of spring based on the hinese
calendar, a lunisolar calendar. $owever, like #ietnam, each of these countries have incorporated
characteristic rituals and celebrations that are indigenous to their regions, and are harmonious with their
cultural histor and geographical climate.The name T>t EguZn =n is Sino-#ietnamese for &east of the
&irst t is celebrated on the same da ashinese Eew ;ear, though exceptions arise due to the one-hour time
difference between $anoiand+ei/ingresulting in the alternate calculation of thenew moon.'t takes place
from the first da of the first month of the Runar calendar (around late @anuar or earl &ebruar) until at
least the third da. t b cooking special holida foods and cleaning the
house. There are a lot of customs practiced during T>t, such as visiting a persons house on the first da of
the new ear (45ng nh6), ancestral worshipping, wishing Eew ;ears greetings, giving luck mone tochildren and elderl people, and opening a shop.
T>t is also an occasion for pilgrims and famil reunions. 3uring T>t, #ietnamese visit their relatives and
temples, forgetting about the troubles of the past ear and hoping for a better upcoming ear. The consider
T>t to be the first da of spring and the festival is often called 78i 4u9n(spring festival).
Cuto+
#ietnamese people usuall return to their families during T>t. Some return to worship at the famil altar or
visit the graves of their ancestors in their homeland. The also clean the grave of their famil as a sign ofrespect. 0lthough T>t is a national holida among all #ietnamese, each region and religion has its own
customs.
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T>t in the three #ietnamese regions can be divided into three periods, known as &:t )i;n(penultimate Eew
;ears Pve), #iao &ht, the eve of T>t, and the das of and following T>t, respectivel. 0ll of these customs are to
celebrate T>t in #ietnam.
B"%or" '", -"ar. E/"This period begins one or two weeks before the actual celebration. The general atmosphere leading up to
T>t is in the bustle of shopping, decorating the home, cooking traditional T>t food and waiting for relatives to
return home. eople tr to pa off their debts in advance so that the can be debt-free on T>t. arents bu
new clothes for their children so that the children can wear them when T>t arrives. 'n the das leading up to
T>t, the streets and markets are full of people. 0s the shops will be closed during T>t, people tr to stock up
on supplies as much as possible.
Vi"tna+"" %a+i#i" uua##( ha/" a %a+i#( a#tar0 to ho, r"1"ct to th"ir anc"tor2 Durin$ Tt th"a#tar i thorou$h#( c#"an"d and n", o%%"rin$ ar" 1#ac"d th"r"2 Thi inc#ud" a tra( o% %i/"
di%%"r"nt %ruit on th" a#tar ca##"d &M+ '$3 4u& 5#it"ra##(0 %i/" %ruit t(1"6
$am &gu ua$ sends )et taditionalfla.ous
, ore coonly known by its shortened nae Tet, is the ost iportant and popularholiday in 9ietna. -t is a rela!ing and special occasion for e$eryone to think about theachie$eents of the past year and plan for the )ew 2ear. # +a )gu Aua 0fi$e4fruit tray1on the ancestral altar during Tet holiday sybolizes the adiration and gratitude of the9ietnaese to %ea$en and 3arth and their ancestors, and deonstrates their aspiration for
prosperity.For a long tie, together with horizontal lacuered boards engra$ed with Chinese characters,
parallel sentences written on crison paper, ornaental kuuat and peach trees, and popular%ang Trong and @ong %o pictures, the fi$e4fruit tray prepared for Tet has transcended itsaterial $alue to becoe a spiritual sybol, an original national product in the spiritual life ofthe 9ietnaese. #t present, while any of the ancient spiritual $alues ha$e sunk into obli$ion,the custo of arranging the fi$e4fruit tray on the altar during the lunar )ew 2ear days is being
8ealously preser$ed as a fine legacy of 9ietnaKs traditional culture. The buying of $oti$eofferings and the decoration of ancestral altars during the traditional )ew 2ear days are closelyconnected with the rituals of worship practiced by the 9ietnaese towards their ancestors.@uring these )ew 2ear days, in addition to such national dishes and products as "$at pork,
salted onions,parallel sentences written on red paper%ong bamboo polesplanted upright,strings offireworks, ands&uare glutinous rice cakes", it is indispensable for each 9ietnaesefaily to display a fi$e4fruit tray on the ancestral altar for Tet.
)o atter whether rich or poor, on )ew 2earMs 3$e, it is also $ery iportant for the9ietnaese to select the best fi$e4fruit tray. The fruits are placed on a red4lacuered woodentray and arranged in a balanced cone and in haronious colours. Fruits that ay be laid outon the tray include bananas, finger citrons, waterelons, oranges, kuuats, coconuts, apples,
persions or toatoes, and chilis. 3ach kind of fruit has its own indication. # hand of greenbananas or a finger citron, for e!aple, sybolises oneKs wish for the protection ofsupernatural powers and ancestors, poelos and waterelons indicate fertility, and kuuats
or persions connote wealth and prosperity.
Custom o the ive&ruit tra...
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Nne theory says that the fi$e fruits are sybolic of the fi$e basic eleents of orientalphilosophy 4 etal, wood, water, fire and soil. Nther theories regard the tray as sybolic ofthe fruits of a failyKs hard work throughout the past year, which are consecrated to hea$enand earth and their ancestors as sign of respect and gratitude.
# fi$e4fruit tray, though $arying fro one region to another due to differences in cliate andfruit crops, light up altars with their aple colours. -n northern areas, fi$e4fruit traysornaented with poelos, peaches, kuuats, bananas and persions are relati$ely sallerthan those in southern areas with pairs of waterelons, coconuts, papayas, custard apples,angos, and figs. -pro$eents in peopleKs li$ing conditions in recent years ha$e led to agreater sophistication in choosing fruits for the altar for the Tet holiday. # tray ay containore e!pensi$e, rarer fruits like grapes and pears, but all in all it is still a fi$e4fruit tray, a niceoffering of the 9ietnaese people to their ancestors. -t not only displays a life4long tradition
but also sends a essage of hope for happiness, good luck and prosperity for the new year.
The custo of displaying the fi$e4fruit tray as $oti$e offerings at the holy place of the house hasbeen reflected in any popular legends and tales. -t has originated fro ancient popular beliefsobser$ed fro one generation to another in their worship towards their forefathers. To this day,
the 9ietnaese still obser$e a long4standing custo of placing the first ripe fruits har$estedfro the hoe garden on the altar and burning incense sticks in eory of their ancestors.
'reparation or a ive&ruit tra
ike other popular rituals, the preparation of a fi$e4fruit tray for Tet has becoe an establishedcon$ention. #lthough it is called a fi$e4fruit tray, it does not necessarily contain e!actly fi$ekinds of fruit. #rranging fruits on the crison, hourglass4shaped wooden tray is really an art.Nne has to cobine the colours and shapes of the different fruits in arranging the on the trayto ake it look like a still life picture.
To ensure balance on the tray, one usually places the hand of bananas in the iddle with the
bananas pointing upright and the poelo on the conca$e surface of the hand of bananas. Thenone puts the oranges, sapodilla plus, apples, etc. in the gaps between the bananas and the
poelo. The last little gaps are filled in with little kuuats to create a full, copact tray offruits. -n colours, the fruit4tray presents a haronious cobination of the different colours offruits: dark green of banana, light yellow of poelo, deep red of persion, reddish4yellow oforange and kuuat, light green of apple, and dark brown of sapodilla plu. To coplete the
picture, the fruit4tray will be co$ered here and there with soe sall, fresh lea$es of kuuat.
The +a )gu Aua in Tet festi$al represent the uintessence that %ea$en and 3arth blesshuans. This is one of the general perceptions of life of the 9ietnaese, which is '(n &u)nh* k+ trng c-y. /"0hen taking fruit, you should think of the grower"1
.Traditionall, the three kitchen guardians for each house (=ng &>o) (Xitchen Fod), who report to the @ade
Pmperorabout the events in that house over the past ear, return to heaven on the 6Urd da of the twelfth
month b lunar calendar. Their departure is marked b a modest ceremon where the famil offers
sacrifices for them to use on their /ourne.
'n the das leading up to T>t, each famil cooks special holida foods such as ?>nh ch@ngand ?>nh dy.
reparations for these foods are 1uite extensive. &amil members often take turns to keep watch on the fire
overnight, telling each other stories about T>t of past ears.
The Eew ;earThe first da of T>t is reserved for the nuclear famil. hildren receive a redenvelopecontaining mone from their elders. This tradition is called mt
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitchen_Godhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Emperorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Emperorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Emperorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banh_chunghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banh_chunghttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Banh_day&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Banh_day&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_envelopehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_envelopehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitchen_Godhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Emperorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jade_Emperorhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banh_chunghttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Banh_day&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_envelopehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_envelope -
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greetings before receiving the mone. Since the #ietnamese believe that the first visitor a famil receives in
the ear determines their fortune for the entire ear, people never enter an house on the first da without
being invited first. The act of being the first person to enter a house on T>t is called45ng :t,45ng
nh6orEp :t, which is one of the most important rituals during T>t. 0ccording to #ietnamese tradition, if
good things come to the famil on the first da of the lunar Eew ;ear, the entire following ear will also be
full of blessings. Qsuall, a person of good temper, moralit and success will be the luck sign for the host
famil and be invited first into the house. $owever, /ust to be safe, the owner of the house will leave the
house a few minutes before midnight and come back /ust as the clock strikes midnight to prevent anone
else entering the house first who might potentiall bring an unfortunate events in the new ear to the
household.
Sweeping during T>t is taboo or4ui(unluck), since it smboli:es sweeping the luck awa8 that is wh the
clean before the new ear. 't is also taboo for anone who experienced a recent loss of a famil member to
visit anone else during T>t.
3uring subse1uent das, people visit relatives and friends. Traditionall but not strictl, the second da of
T>t is usuall reserved for friends, while the third da is for teachers, who command respect in #ietnam.
Rocal+uddhisttemples are popular spots as people like to give donations and to get their fortunes told
during T>t. hildren are free to spend their new mone on tos or ongamblinggames such as?u cua c>
cFp,which can be found in the streets. rosperous families can pa for dragon dancers to perform at their
house. There are also public performances for everone to watch.
Traditiona# C"#"bration7"dit8
These celebrations can last from a da up to the entire week, and the Eew ;ear is filled with people in the
streets tring to make as much noise as possible using firecrackers, drums, bells, gongs, and anthing the
can think of to ward off evil spirits. This parade will also include different masks, and dancers hidden under
the guise of what is known as the t greetings (below).
Traditionall, each famil displas c9y n;u, an artificial Eew ;ear Treeconsisting of a bamboopole 5 to B m
long. The top end is usuall decorated with man ob/ects, depending on the localit, including good luck
charms,origamifish, cactus branches, etc.
0t T>t ever house is usuall decorated b hoa mai^ %chna integerrima(in the central and southern parts
of #ietnam) or hoa 6o^peach flower(in the northern part of #ietnam) or hoa ?an(in mountain areas). 'n
the north, some people (especiall the elite in the past) also decorate their house with a runus mumetree
(also called maiin #ietnamese, but referring to a totall different species from %chna integerrima). 'n the
north or central, the kum1uattree is a popular decoration for the living room during T>t. 'ts man fruits
smboli:e the fertilit and fruitfulness that the famil hopes for in the coming ear.
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#ietnamese people also decorate their homes withbonsaiand flower plants such as chrsanthemum(hoa
c_c),marigold(v`n th) smboli:ing longevit,celosia(m*o g*) in Southern #ietnam and paperwhiteflower
(thGy ti;n),hoa bmin Eorthern #ietnam. 'n the past, there was a tradition that old people tried to make
their paperwhite flowers blossom right the watch-night time. The also hung up3ong $o aintingsand thu
php(calligraphpictures).
9r""tin$7"dit8
The traditional greetings are "chHc mt", showing the importance of
food in its celebration. Some of the food is also eaten ear-round, while other dishes are onl eaten during
T>t. 0lso, some of the food is vegetarian since it is believed to be good luck to eat vegetarian on T>t. Some
traditional food on T>t areV
W>nh ch@ng and ?>nh dyV essentiall tightl packed stick ricewith meat or bean fillings wrapped
in 3ong (hrnium placentarium) leaves. %hen these leaves are unavailable banana leaves can be
used as a substitute. +nh chng (rectangular to represent Parth) and bnh d (circular to represent
Sk) are smbolicall connected with T>t and are essential in an T>t celebration. reparation is time-
consuming, and can take das to cook. The stor of their origins and their connection with T>t is often
recounted to children while cooking them overnight.
7Et D@aV roastedwatermelonseeds, also eaten during T>t.
D@a 76nh"X picled onion and picled ca??age.
CG iYuV pickledsmall leeks.
3QtV These dried candied fruits are rarel eaten at an time besides T>t.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonsaihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonsaihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysanthemumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_c%C3%BAc&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_c%C3%BAc&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tageteshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tageteshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=V%E1%BA%A1n_th%E1%BB%8D&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=V%E1%BA%A1n_th%E1%BB%8D&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celosiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celosiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=M%C3%A0o_g%C3%A0&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narcissus_tazettahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narcissus_tazettahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_b%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bm&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_b%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bm&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dong_Ho_Paintinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dong_Ho_Paintinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dong_Ho_Paintinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thu_ph%C3%A1p&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thu_ph%C3%A1p&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thu_ph%C3%A1p&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calligraphyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calligraphyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=T%E1%BA%BFt&action=edit§ion=6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yue_Chinesehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yue_Chinesehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yue_Chinesehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_New_Year#Greetingshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A1nh_ch%C6%B0nghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sticky_ricehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sticky_ricehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watermelonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watermelonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watermelonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_chinensehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_chinensehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_chinensehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonsaihttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysanthemumhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_c%C3%BAc&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_c%C3%BAc&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tageteshttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=V%E1%BA%A1n_th%E1%BB%8D&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celosiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=M%C3%A0o_g%C3%A0&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Narcissus_tazettahttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Hoa_b%C6%B0%E1%BB%9Bm&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dong_Ho_Paintinghttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thu_ph%C3%A1p&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Thu_ph%C3%A1p&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calligraphyhttp://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=T%E1%BA%BFt&action=edit§ion=6http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yue_Chinesehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_New_Year#Greetingshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A1nh_ch%C6%B0nghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sticky_ricehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watermelonhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allium_chinense -
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Cu D
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/udge where it is and how the can catch it. Spectators roar with laughter as both the duck and plaers run
noisil and disorderl around the circle.
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Coc; %i$htin$ 5Vi"tna+""! * $6
Traditionall, cock fighting encourages farmers to raise their cocks as well as possible. The sport re1uires
cocks to be strong and health so farmers would carefull choose suitable oung cocks and train them for a
long time. The fighting often take place over man hours and attracts man people, especiall during Tet. \U]
Ca#"ndar and odiac di%%"r"nc"7"dit8
The hinese calendaris based on astronomical observations and is therefore dependent on what is
considered the local standard time. Eorth #ietnam switched from QTL to QTC on 0ugust L, DBC, with
South #ietnam doing likewise in DC5 at the end of the #ietnam %ar. 0s a result of the shift, Eorth and
South #ietnam celebrated T>t DBLon different das.\4]The moving backwards of one hour had a similar
effect to theD6 +ei/ing time changeand the effect of this change was also seen with the %inter
Solsticeof DL4. 9n $anoi time the solsticefell on 3ecember 6D, though on +ei/ing time the solstice fell on
3ecember 66.
0s the DDth month of thehinese calendarmust contain the %inter Solstice, it is not the month from
Eovember 6U, DL4 to 3ecember 6D, DL4 as per the #ietnamese calendar, but rather the one from
3ecember 66, DL4 to @anuar 67, DL5. The effect of this is that the #ietnamese Eew ;ear would fall on
@anuar 6D, DL5, whereas the hinese Eew ;earwould fall on &ebruar 67, DL5, a one-month
difference. The two calendars agreed again after a leap month lasting from
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applies se$en colours: white. black, green, yellow, $iolet, pink, and red. +iraculously, thedifferent colours ne$er stain one another when he assebles the parts of a to lie figurine.
+any generations of 9ietnaese children ha$e been o$er8oyed when their others returnfro arket with a tQ he. Children can e$en eat tQ he after playing with the. 3ach Puana craftsan ebarking on the tQ he trade learns to huour custoers, especially children.The lesson of huanity is the first one e$ery Puan a $illager bears in ind. 7-f we lo$e
people, they will surely coe to us,7 tQ he akers say.
+aking tQ he does not bring uch profit. The aterials of rice paste, baboo4stick holders,colourings are ine!pensi$e and locally a$ailable. # craftsan only charges custoers for his
patience and care. Custoers can place their orders, watch the craftsan ould the toy, andbe pleased with the results in inutes. # tQ he can depict a person, a faous general, a folk4tale character, an anial, or a flower. The akers reeber the characteristics of e$erysub8ect. They are e!perts in using e!actly the right aount of paste to for each separate partof each kind of toy as if these skills were an inborn talent.
+r. @ang 9an To who is eighty4two, is the oldest tQ he aker in Puan a. %e talks proudly
about his life and career. +r. ToKs faily has been aking tQ he for ten generations. %elearned the trade when he was si! and is nationally known. The +inistry of Culture and-nforation often asks hi to deonstrate tQ he aking at festi$als. +r. ToKs passion andskill ha$e not lessened despite his age. %e can ake e$ery kind of tQ he, fro kings andandarins with elaborate iperial costues to coplicated dragons. %e can finish an iageof Ring Auang Trung 4 a national hero, in less than ten inutes.
...and the meaningul lessons
-t was also the oent when the tradition, lessons of $irtues and orals were passed on to theyoung generation. Puan a $illage is the place where passionate craftsen follow generationsof faily to carry on with their tQ he toys and the ad$enture of iaginati$e figurines despitethe o$erwheing influ! of odern toys and illustrated books.
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If you are ever in Hanoi it will be regretful to miss the ater !uppet Theater even if you
think you are not a puppet kind of person. ater !uppets literally means #puppets that
dance on the water$. This show is not %ust geared for kids, but meant to delight adults as
well.
inh pro$ince. &ater puppetry is deeply ibued with the cultural characteristics of the peopleof this area. This uniue art first appeared around the DG th century, when post4har$est, artistswho were also farers would gather to perfor and rela!. The custo reains today in anylocalities in the Bed Bi$er @elta such as @ao Thuc, hu @a, @ong Ca, )guyen Pa, @ong
)gu, )han %oa and )a Chan.
'n ancient #ietnam, the rural #ietnamese believed that spirits controlled all aspects of their life, from the kitchen to
the rice paddies. That is the reason wh the farmers in this region devised a form of entertainment and worship to
satisf these spirits. %ater puppetr is the livel creation of farmers who spent their das in flooded rice fields. 0t
some point, the discovered that the water was an excellent medium for puppetrV it not onl concealed thepuppeteers rod and string mechanisms, but it also provided exciting effects like waves and splashes.
%hen water puppetr became more popular, villages competed against each other with their puppet shows. This
led puppet societies to be secretive and exclusive, including an initiation ceremon that involved drinking rooster
blood.
*o far this art for has been uniue to )orth 9ietna. Tourists can en8oy this kind of art alldays in a week at Thang ong uppet Theatre, which is the ost well known one in %a )oi.
="r%or+anc"
&or over a thousand ears, performers in #ietnamese %ater uppet Theater2s feet have alwas suffered in cold
and wet condition. %ater puppetr is performed in a chest-deep pool of water, with the waters surface as a stage.The puppeteers stand behind a screen and control the puppets using long bamboo rods and string mechanism
hidden beneath the water surface.
The puppet is carved out of wood and often weighs up to D5 kg. 0 large rod supports the puppet under the water
and is used b the puppeteers to control them. The appearance is of the puppets moving over the water. The
puppets enter from either side of the stage, or emerge from the murk depths of the water. 'n the past when the
rice fields were flooded the villagers would entertain each other using this puppet form.
# traditional 9ietnaese orchestra pro$ides background usic accopanient. *ingers ofCheo 0a for of opera1 with origin in )orth 9ietna sing the songs which tell the story beingacted out by the puppets. erforances of up to D short scenes are usually introduced by a
pig4tailed bupkin known as Teu, and accopanied by a sall folk orchestra. The usiciansand the puppets interact during perforanceO the usicians ay yell a word of warning to a
puppet in danger or a word of encourageent to a puppet in need.
0long with singing the atmosphere, while the decorations set the stage for each particula, traditional musical
instruments like drums, wooden bells, cmbals, horns, two-string hinese violins and flutes create r stle of water
puppetr. Oesearcher Eguen $u $ong believes that water puppetr combines sculpture, architecture, painting,
music, stage and literature.
Cont"nt
The theme of the skits is rural and has a strong reference to #ietnamese folklore. 't tells of da-to-da living in
rural #ietnam and #ietnamese folk tales that are told older generation to ounger generation. 9f which stories ofthe harvest, of fishing and of festivals are highlighted.
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The water also provides the best setting for the puppeteers themeV da-to-da village life. %ater puppets bring
wr humor to scenes of farming, fishing, festival events such as buffalo fights, and childrens games of marbles
and coin-toss. &ishing turns into a game of wits between the fisherman and his pre, with the fisherman getting
the short end (often capturing his surprised neighbor b mistake). +esides village life, scenes include legends and
national histor. Rion dogs romp like puppies while dragons exhale smoke and shoot spras of water at the
audience. Teu, a pig-tailed bumpkin, is the character who usuall plas the role of introducing the performances.
The introduction is alwas accompanied b a small folk orchestra. Spotlights and colorful flags adorn the stageand create a festive atmosphere.
Regends and national histor are also told through short skits. o@uong $illagers hold $illage festi$al to coeorate their tutelary god. #side fro worship,the festi$al is also an opportunity for $illagers to rela! by watching water puppetry, taking infireworks displays, flying kites and entering cock4fighting contests. The festi$al alwaysattracts thousands of attendants. 9illage festi$als are great wind down for farers and artistsalike.
%oa o risonThe
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3uring the #ietnam %ar, the first Q.S. prisoner to be sent to $oa Ro was Rieutenant, @unior
FradePverett 0lvare: @r.,who was shot down on 0ugust 5, DB4.\L]&rom the beginning, Q.S. 9%s
endured miserable conditions, including poor food and unsanitar conditions. \]The prison complex
was sarcasticallnicknamed the "$anoi $ilton" b the 0merican 9%s, in reference to the well-
known $ilton $otelchain. There is some disagreement among the first group of 9%s who coined the
name but&L3pilot +ob Shumaker\D7]was the first to write it down, carving "%elcome to the $anoi
$ilton" on the handle of a pail to greet the arrival of 0ir &orce Rieutenant Oobert eel. \DD]
+eginning in earl DBC, a new area of the prison was opened for incoming 0merican 9%s8 \D6]it was
dubbed "Rittle #egas", and its individual buildings and areas were named after Ras #egas
Striplandmarks, such as "Folden Eugget," "Thunderbird," "Stardust," "Oiviera," and the "3esert
'nn."\DU]These names were chosen because man pilots had trained atEellis 0ir &orce +ase, located
in proximit to Ras #egas.\D6]0merican pilots were fre1uentl alread in bad shape b the time the
were captured, in/ured either during their e/ection or in landing on the ground. \D4]
The $anoi $ilton was one site used b the Eorth #ietnamese 0rmto
house, tortureand interrogatecaptured servicemen, mostl 0merican pilots shot down during bombing
raids.\D5]
0lthough Eorth #ietnam was a signator of the Third Feneva onvention of D4,\D5]
whichdemanded "decent and humane treatment" of prisoners of war, severe torture methods were
emploed, such as rope bindings, irons, beatings, and prolonged solitar confinement. \L]\D5]\DB]The aim
of the torture was usuall not ac1uiring militar information8 \L]rather, it was to break the will of the
prisoners, both individuall and as a group.\L]\DC]The goal of the Eorth #ietnamese was to get written or
recorded statements from the prisoners that critici:ed Q.S. conduct of the war and praised how the
Eorth #ietnamese treated them.\L]Such 9% statements would be viewed as a propaganda victor in
the battle to swa world and Q.S. domestic opinion against the Q.S. war effort.\L]\DU]'n the end, Eorth
#ietnamese torture was sufficientl brutal and prolonged that virtuall ever 0merican 9% so
sub/ected made a statement of some kind at some time. \DL](0s one later wrote of finall being forced to
make an anti-0merican statementV "' had learned what we all learned over thereV Pver man has his
breaking point. ' had reached mine.")\DU]Oeali:ing this, the 0mericans aim became to absorb as much
torture as the could before giving in8\DB]one later described the internal code the 9%s developed
and instructed new arrivals on asV "Take phsical torture until ou are right at the edge of losing our
abilit to be rational. 0t that point, lie, do, or sa whatever ou must do to survive. +ut ou first must
take phsical torture."\D]
0fter making statements, the 9%s would admit to each other what had happened, lest shame or guilt
consume them or make them more vulnerable to additional Eorth #ietnamese pressure.\DB]Eevertheless, the 9%s obsessed over what the had done, and would ears after their release
still be haunted b the "confessions" or other statements the had made. \67]0s another 9% later
said, "To this da ' get angr with mself. +ut we did the best we could. \%e reali:e], over time, that
we all fall short of what we aspire to be. 0nd that is where forgiveness comes in." \67]
Oegarding treatment at $oa Ro and other prisons, ommunists countered b stating that prisoners
were treated well and in accordance with the Feneva onventions.\6D]3uring DB, the broadcast a
series of coerced statements from 0merican prisoners that purported to support this notion. \6D]The
Eorth #ietnamese would also maintain that their prisons were no worse than prisons for 9%s and
political prisoners in South #ietnam, such as the one on on Son 'sland.\citation needed]
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worsen for those remaining in Eorth #ietnamese custod.\DU]olic changed under the Eixon
administration,when mistreatment of the prisoners was publici:ed b Q.S. Secretar of
3efense
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#ietnamese political prisoners.\6]Pxhibits related to the 0merican prisoners include the interrogationroom where man newl captured 0mericans were 1uestioned (notorious among former prisoners asthe "blue room") is now made up to look like a ver comfortable, if spartan, barracks-stle room.3isplas in the room claim that 0mericans were treated well and not harmed (and even cite thenickname "$anoi $ilton" as proof that inmates found the accommodations comparable to a hotels).The museums claims are contradicted b former prisoners published memoirs and oral historiesbroadcast on -S0E identif the room (and other nearb locales) as the site of numerous acts oftorture.
7o 7oan iem(or Rake of the Oestored Sword) was once part of the Oed river (song $ong). Throughout thousands of ears of
geographical changes, the lake moved eastward to its present position kilometers from the river. +efore the
famous historical legend of Xing Re Roi here, $oan Xiem Rake used to be called Ruc Thu Rake (or Freen %ater
Rake) since the water was green all the ear round. 'n D5 thcentur, it was named $oan Xiem Rake after the
legend of Pmperor Re Thai To, which is somehow similar to the stor of Xing 0rthur and the Rad of the Rakes.
Eow please close our ees and turn back time to the Re 3nast B centuries ago to witness the legendary story.
3uring the war against the
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stories and legends about the lake and other attractions surrounding it. &or da tour information, take a look at
this$oan Xiem laketour.
Parl morning sees
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St @oseph2s athedral
0s ou round the southern tip of the lake and head up its western shore ou2ll spot $anoi2s neo-Fothic cathedral
over the rooftops to our left. #eer left along $ang Trong, then left into Eha Tho, to reach it. 't was constructed in
the earl DLL7s, partl financed b two lotteries, and though the exterior is badl weathered its high-vaulted
interior is still imposing. 0mong the first things ou notice inside are the ornate altar screen and the stained-glass
windows, most of which are &rench originals. 9ver the black marble tomb of a former cardinal of #ietnam standsone of several statues commemorating martred #ietnamese saints, in this case 0ndrj 3ung Rac who was
executed in DLU on the orders of the ferventl anti-hristian emperor
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0lthough $oa R was a strategic citadel surrounded b mountains and marshland that was difficult for
invading armies to attack or con1uer, $oa R was geographicall too small and difficult for commerce
and urban development to flourish. R [ng Qn, who had wished to implement civic development
and economic growth within the realm, soon reali:ed that $oa R was not a suitable place for such
aspirations. This prompted R Thi T to move the capital to a more spacious landscaped settlement
called=`i Ra, now $* EMi. =`i Ra was an ideal location for the new capital since it was on flatland and
surrounded b rivers and lakes, which was advantageous for transportation, commerce, and militarmobili:ation. 'n D7D7, he issued a roal decree called Pdict on the Transfer of the apitalfor moving
the imperial capital from $oa R to =`i Ra. %hile travelling from $oa R to the imperial settlement, he
claimed to have had a vision of "a ellow dragon ascending" which inspired him to change the new
settlements name from =`i Ra to Th{ng Rongwhich means "0scending 3ragon". R [ng Qn also
built Trng 0n itadel in the former capital $oa R to further fortif the garrison for militar defense
and ThiZn =~c itadel in hp village as a tributar honor to his childhood home town.
"#i$ion7"dit8
$aving begun life as a +uddhist monk, R Thi T practiced +uddhismand promoted it as the national
religion. 0s a result, he gave much support to the +uddhist clerg and institutions. $e donated moneto build pagodas throughout =`i #iqt.
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Tax on agricultural production (farming)
Tax on loggingwood and masonr
Tax on salt production
Tax on luxur goods production (ivor, gold, silk, precious materials, etc.)
Tax on fruits and vegetable production
34ploing the 5ld )o'n
Hanoi would not be Hanoi without its Old Quarter,a maze of streets dating back to the13th century, its present-day chaos just a different version of the old chaos, when
specialized trade guilds were responsible for each street. he !uarter is e"hausting
#$%hat&s with all the honking'($ my friend asks) and crowded* you&ll be jostled bypassing motorbikes, cyclos, and hawkers with shoulder-poles hanging pendulous burdensof local produce. he !uarter is one of those places in the world that grows on you themore you e"perience it.
+aid to resemble a tree sprouting from the cool waters of Hoan iem ake, the streetsare like chaotic branches and tendrils as they fan out in jagged patterns across the areanorth of Hanoi&s famed lake. imited on one side by the ed iver and on the other by
the once-great Hanoi /itadel, whose walls are still standing in some areas, the 0lduarter is, as the name denotes, the oldest area of the town and has long been an
important economic center. 2n its earliest inceptions, the 0ld uarter was accessed by aseries of canals on its northeast edge that lead to regional waterways. he western end
of the !uarter was developed in the early 1th century when the completion of the Hanoi/itadel left open areas that were settled by outlying villages and tradespeople. he!uarter hosts the city&s largest market, 4ong 5uan, and welcomes the bulk of foreignvisitors to the city with its maze of streets, multitude of services, and great hotel andrestaurant $finds.$ 6etting lost in the maze is one of the biggest joys of Hanoi.
7ost interesting are the Communal Housesset up by the guilds in each area. ike small
temples to honor a local god, many to the 8ach 7a, or $%hite Horse,$ who representsthe city of Hanoi, these little courtyard areas are usually protected from the street and
have often hidden entrances or just humble low roofs out front that give way to elaborateinterior courtyards and temple buildings. 9side from communal houses, you findstandard Buddhist and Daoist templesamong the city&s crooked streets. 7ost notable
is the Bach Ma Templein the eastern end of the !uarter.
eep an eye out for the classic 0ld uarter tube house,the best and most accessiblee"ample of which is at :; 7a 7ay +t. or at 3: Hang 4ao #directly north of the lake).
ube houses are so named because they are just that< a long, narrow tube of space thatis subdivided into sections that served the family&s every need. %hy so narrow' 9nd, in
fact, why do =ietnamese still build so narrow and high today' >roperties were ta"ed onthe basis of their street frontage, and real estate has always been e"pensive in this
bustling !uarter #real estate prices in Hanoi rival any city in the %est these days). ubehouses are divided into sections. he front is the business office, where any goods aredisplayed and where business is conducted. 2n a succession of courtyards and interiorspaces, some two stories, a tube house has areas set aside for gardening and for
servants, and, at the back, private family !uarters with the kitchen and the loo, whichwas traditionally nothing more than a large latrine pot that fit into a nook and had to beemptied regularly. ?ou can spot traditional homes by their low tile roofs parallel to thestreet.
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European buildingsof the @rench are more elaborate, usually two-story structures,with architectural flourishes like overhanging bay windows and a high sloping roof, someof the mansard variety. he more time you spend in the 0ld uarter, the more adept youget at finding the old among the new. 2n fact, many shops with the most modern, neon-lit storefronts on the first floor are, in fact, old colonials, so be sure to keep an eye on theroofline to spot some anti!ue gems among the clutter.
he 0ld uarter evolved from workshop villages organized by trades, or guilds, and eventoday, streets are dedicated to a product or trade. +ome streets still offer the services of
old -- for e"ample Hang Thiec Street,or insmith +treet, is still the place to buy tinreceptacles and for sheet-metal work -- but others have changed< Hang Vai,or /loth
+treet, is now home to the bamboo trade, and many old streets support new trades. ?ouwon&t find anything named $7otorcycle +eat epair +treet$ or $/heap >lastic oys2mported from /hina +treet,$ but they do e"ist. 2t&s a fascinating slice of centuries-old lifein Hanoi, including markets that are so crowded that the streets themselves narrow to afew feet.
Hanoi&s 0ld uarter is also where the seeds of /ommunist revolution were sown --
starting in 1A; with the onkin @ree +chool 7ovement, a program of study at a school
in the 0ld uarter, just north of Hoan iem ake, which focused on =ietnamese traditionsinstead of the de rigueur@rench curriculum. he 0ld uarter school was closed down by@rench officials, but the patriotic zeal that founded it would never die and insteadproduced small workers& strikes throughout the 1BAs, many of which broughtbloodshed. 0ld uarter trade guilds were fertile ground for the worker&s revolution,spawning independent presses* over time, /ommunist cells emerged that would uniteduring the 9ugust evolution of 1CD. he 0ld uarter was, in fact, =ietnamese turfduring violent skirmishes with the colonial @rench in their bid to control the upstartcolony from 1CD until complete =ietnamese victory at 4ien 8ien >hu and @rench
withdrawal.
2 had the good fortune of meeting an 9merican Viet Kieu,or returning =ietnamese, on a
trip in Halong 8ay and hearing about his life in old Hanoi and his impressions now. 8ornon Hang 8ong #/otton +t.) in the 0ld uarter, he grew up in a house near %est ake buthad spent a lot of his youth careening about the commercial streets at the town centerwhile his mother worked as a seamstress. 9sked what was different between the oldHanoi and the new #this was the his first time back since taking flight after the 6eneva9ccords divided the country), the kind gentleman talked only of the similarities, sayingthat his home out near %est ake is just as it was #and the owner abruptly slammed thedoor on him when he told her why he&d knocked, for fear he&d come back to re-claim his
house). He said that the 0ld uarter, barring the proliferation of motorbikes, neon, andimproved pavement, was e"actly as it was when he left =ietnam in the mid-1DAs. @or
those who decry the cacophony and chaos of motorbikes, cars, and trucks in the district,it&s important to remember that the 0ld uarter is a market area, a place for business,
and business in =ietnam is conducted at high decibels. he streets of the 0ld uarterhave always been busy and noisy, only now it is modern traffic that makes the racket,not shouting hawkers pulling bullock carts.
Note:here is an initiative to make the 0ld uarter a pedestrian-only zone, and on
weekend nights, the length of pavement along central Hang Egang and Hang 4uong isclosed to car and motorbike traffic. 9 night market has opened up with lots of flea
market-style sellers of tourist trinkets.
he following is a translation of just some of the streets and the trades that werepracticed in the 0ld uarter. +ome of the streets below still sell or produce the sameitems* others have evolved to more modern goods, but the clumps-of-industry principle
remains. ook for the following