amihope ll natural hair care formulas

ASP0371E-1 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

A Novel Approach to Improving Sensory Aspects of Natural Formulations

FeaturingAmino Acid Based Functional Powder

AMIHOPE® LL

Ajinomoto Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience LaboratoriesASP0371-2

Glowing Natural /Organic Cosmetics Market

0

500

1,000

1,500

2,000

2,500

2004 2005 2006 2007

Num

ber o

f Pro

duct

s

Asia Pacific

Europe

North America

Latin AmericaMiddle East& Africa

Source: Mintel GNPD


“Free from” Cosmetics• Synthetic fragrances• Artificial colorants• Mineral oil• Petrochemicals• Alcohol• Parabens• PEG• SLES• Silicones• ….?


LOHAS

Quality

GreenEnvironmentally

-friendly

Natural / Organic / “Free from” Cosmetics

Shifting Demands

Vegetableorigin

Natural origin

ReliabilityComfort

Sustainability

Life style

Sensoryaspects

PerformanceEfficacy


Contents• Technical challenges in development of natural

formulations• Amino acid based functional powder AMIHOPE® LL

• Characteristics• Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in natural cosmetic

formulations• Skincare emulsions• Foaming cleansing formulations

• How to incorporate AMIHOPE® LL into Liquid cleansing formulations• Recrystallized AMIHOPE® LL

• Summary


Technical Challenges in Development of Natural Formulations

• Viscosity building of liquid foaming formulations• More difficult to increase viscosity of natural surfactants• Synthetic polymers are not in the list => difficult to obtain

“natural”(=not jelly) viscosity

• Emulsifier• EO-type nonionics are not in the list

• Preservation• Sensorial aspects

• Silicone materials, synthetic polymers, quat-compounds are not in the list

=>Emulsions: difficult to obtain smooth spreadability, good absorbency or to reduce stickiness / greasiness

=>Hair care products: difficult to obtain good conditioning properties e.g. wet/ dry smoothness, wet / dry combability

New Technology


Amino Acid Based Functional Powder

AMIHOPE® LL

Chemical Name: N -Lauroyl-L-LysineCTFA INCI Name: Lauroyl Lysine

NH

O NH3+

O

O

L-Lysine

Amino acid based organic powderderived from coconut fatty acid and

naturally occurring amino acid

ECOCERT certified natural ingredient


AMIHOPE® LL Imparts Smooth and Even Spreadability

Lubricity

AMIHOPE® LLPolytetrafluoroethylene

Boron nitride

Talc

Mica

Nylon powder

0 0.1 0.2 0.3Kinematic frictional coefficient

• AMIHOPE® LL imparts smooth and even spreadability.


Amino Acid Based Functional Powder

AMIHOPE® LL• Characteristics

• Excellent lubricity…velvety smooth skin feel• Water-repelling property• High adhesion property…• Silky skin feel

• Applications• Foundations• Other color cosmetics

• Various skincare products e.g. lotions, creams,…• Finishing haircare products• Foaming cleansing products e.g. facial washes,

shampoos

Main application


Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in Skincare Emulsions

• Improvement of rub-out sensory aspects• Reduces stickiness• Natural absorbency

• Improvement of dry skin-feel• Reduces excess oiliness of greasiness• Feel moisturized without stickiness


Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in Skincare Emulsions

• Natural absorbency• Ideal moisturized skin feel without excess

oiliness or greasiness

Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0171E

-0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0

Preference

Silky

Not slippery

Absorbency

Spreadability

Afterfeel

Control

AMIHOPE® LL 0.3%N=9

Rub out


Guide Formulation -1Natural Night Cream ECJ-33PR

(wt％)A Emollients* 24.00 total

ELDEW® PS-203 1.00 EmollientStearyl alcohol 3.80 Emulsion stabilizerCopernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax 0.10 Viscosity modifierGlyceryl stearate 2.90 EmulsifierAMIHOPE® LL 0.30 Sensory improvement

B Xanthan gum 0.20 Emulsion stabilizerWater balance

C Fragrance 0.30D Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) 1.00E Sucrose palmitate 0.40 Co-emulsifierF Citric acid + Sodium Citrate + Water 4.50 total pH adjusterG AMISOFT® HS-11P (3% aq.) 5.00 Co-emulsifierH CAE® (1% aq.) 5.00 Preservative

100.00

*Squalane, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.00 eachIsostearyl hudroxystearate, Butyrospermum parkii (shear butter) 2.00 each

Sample


Guide Formulation -2Natural Day Cream NC-0010• A light touch day care cream

(wt%)A Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) 3.0 Emollient

Squalane 7.0 EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5.0 EmollientStearyl Alcohol 2.0 EmulsfierPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate 2.0 EmulsfierELDEW® PS-203 3.0 EmollientSorbitan Stearate 1.5 Emulsfier

B Water 70.0C Xanthan gum 0.2 Emulsion stabilizerD CAE® 0.1 Preservative

AMISOFT® HS-11P 0.1 Co-emulsifierE AMIHOPE® LL 1.0 Sensory improvementF Preservatives q.s.G Water balance

100.0


Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in Foaming Cleansing Formulations

• Foamability improvement• Improves speed, volume or quality of the foam

• Rinsability improvement• Improves the speed, reduces friction

• Dry-skinfeel improvement• Imparts smooth, silky feel to the skin

• Opacifying / pearlizing• Imparts • Enables addition of conditioning agents with low

solubility in water


Natural Shower GelBenefits of AMIHOPE® LL

-0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0

Foaming speed

Foam volume

Shiney foam

Rinsability

Silky

• Improves foamability and rinsability• Smooth dry-skinfeel


Foam

Dry-skinfeelAMIHOPE® LL

0.5%N=6

Control


Shower GelAMIHOPE® LL Improves Foamability• AMIHOPE® LL improves foam speed and

volume.

0.5% AMIHOPE® LLWithout AMIHOPE® LL


10 sec.


Natural Hair ShampooBenefits of AMIHOPE® LL

• AMIHOPE® LL substitutes cationic polymers or silicones in a conditioning hair shampoo.


Finger through

Hair smoothness during rinse

Detangling

Rinsability

Wet hair smoothness

Preferance

With 0.6% AMIHOPE® LL is better

Equal

WithoutAMIHOPE® LL

Is better


5.5

6.0

6.5

7.0

7.5

8.0

8.5

0.1 1 10Surfactant (wt%, active)

Fric

tion

(MIU

)

Natural Hair ShampooAMIHOPE® LL Reduces Wet Friction

Rinse

0.8% AMIHOPE®LL

• AMIHOPE® LL reduces friction during rinse.

Without AMIHOPE® LL


Rough, squeaky feel


Natural Hair ShampooAMIHOPE® LL Imparts Pearlescent

• AMIHOPE® LL Imparts PearlescentEnables addition of high content of conditioning agents which potentially cause clouding of the formulation

0.8% AMIHOPE®LL

Without AMIHOPE® LL



Guide Formulation -3Natural Facial Wash Cream NFW-259

• A facial wash cream with low active surfactant and high emollient concentrations.

Sample(wt％)A AMISOFT® CS-22 25.0 Foaming surfactant

Coco-betaine (30%) 2.0 Co-surfactantSodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 1.6 Co-surfactantGlyceryl caprylate 2.5 Foam booster、thickenerPropanediol 7.0 MoisturizerAMIHOPE® LL 0.5 Foam & sensory improvementSodium chloride 0.3 Flash foamCitric acid (20% aq.) 3.0 pH adjusterPreservatives q.s.Water balance

B Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 4.0 EmollientMacadamia ternifolia seed oil 4.0 EmollientCyamopsis Tetragonoloba (guar) gum 1.5 Thickener

100.0pH 5.8Viscocity 5,000~7,000 mPa·s


Guide Formulation -4Natural Hair Shampoo <Pearl> NSPX-0019

Sample(wt％)A Xanthan gum 1.00 Viscosity modifierB Water 49.00C AMISOFT® CS-22 10.00 Foaming surfactant

Coco-glucoside 6.00 Co-surfactantGlyceryl caprylate 2.00 Foam boosterArginine C 0.30 Foam boosterWater balance

D AMIHOPE® LL 0.60 Conditioning & pearlescentLauryl glucoside 0.75Decyl glucoside 0.75Sodium hydroxide 0.18 Solubilize LLWater 2.22

E Citric acid 30% aq. 1.00F Citric acid q.s. pH adjuster

pH 5.4Viscocity 2,000~3,000 mPa·s


Guide Formulation -5Facial Wash Powder PWT-310

(wt%)AMISOFT® LS-11 15.0 Foaming surfactantAMISOFT® MS-11 15.0 Foaming surfactantTalc 10.0 Dispersing agentMannitol 20.0 HumectantZea mays (corn) starch 23.5 VehicleGlucose 15.0 VehicleAMIHOPE® LL 1.0 Sensory improvementAgar 0.5 Foam stabilizer

100.0

pH 5.5 (1% aq.)

Sample

• An ultra mild facial wash which imparts excellent silkiness to the skin.


How to Incorporate AMIHOPE® LL into Liquid Cleansing Formulations

• Water repelling property =>difficult to disperse stably in an aqueous solution such as a liquid cleansing formulation, especially when the viscosity is low.

• How aggregation and separation ( surfacing / settling ) can be avoided ?


How to Incorporate AMIHOPE® LL into Liquid Cleansing Formulations

•AMIHOPE® LL is soluble in a strong alkaline solution.Dispersibility often improves by using “AMIHOPE®LL solubilizing process”.

•Two PossibilityI. Add the AMIHOPE® LL alkaline solution to the

formulation to neutralize in it.II. Prepare a concentrate of recrystallized AMIHOPE®

LL and add it to the formulation.

AMIHOPE® LLalkaline solution

Base formulation

Formulation containingAMIHOPE® LL

RecrystallizedAMIHOPE® LL

concentratePrecipitation

Process I. Process II.



AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessDispersibility is Improved

• Dispersibility in a liquid cleansing is often improved by addition of solubilized AMIHOPE®.

Natural hair shampoos, 45oC, 1 month

AMIHOPE® LLdirect addition


Process II.Process I.

AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing Proces


AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessMore Effective Opacifier / Pearlizer

Process I.

AMIHOPE® LLdirect addition

WithoutAMIHOPE® LL

X 400

X 400

50 m

• By the solubilizing process AMIHOPE® LL tends to become more effective as an opacifier/ pearlizer.


50 m


AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessProcess I.

AMIHOPE® LL 25.0Sodium hydroxide 5.0Water 70.0 part

Heat with stirring to dissolve=>cool to r.t.

Stir at r.t.

Part B: alkaline LL solution

Stir to dissolve at r.t.

Product

Opaque / Pearl deepens

AMISOFT® CS-22Sodium lauroamphoacetate

Glyceryl caprylateAJIDEW®NL-50

Water, preservative

Opaque / Pearl

Stir at r.t.

Citric acid aq.

Part B: 2%

Part A


Clear


• How to prepare AMIHOPE® LL concentrate

AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessProcess II.

AMIHOPE® LL 12.5Sodium hydroxide 2.7Water 34.8

Stir to dissolve at r.t.

RecrystallizedAMIHOPE® LL concentrate

Neutralization

30% citric acid aq. 20.0


Add to a base formula

Lauryl glucoside(50%) 15.0Decyl glucoside(50%) 15.0

Clear


AMIHOPE® LL in Natural Cosmetic Formulations

• AMIHOPE® LL is an amino acid based organic powder derived from coconut fatty acid and naturally occurring amino acid

• ECOCERT certified natural ingredient.• Imparts soft, characteristic lubricity and silky skinfeel.• Suitable as sensory improver for emulsions and

pearlescent surfactant formulations, particularly for silicone-free / quat-free / synthetic polymer-free, “natural”skincare or haircare products.• Dosage: 0.1 ~2.0%

• The solubilizing process is sometimes effective to disperse AMIHOPE® LL stably in aqueous cleansing formulations.

amihope ll natural hair care formulas

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