Download - AMIHOPE LL Natural Hair Care Formulas
ASP0371E-1 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
A Novel Approach to Improving Sensory Aspects of Natural Formulations
FeaturingAmino Acid Based Functional Powder
AMIHOPE® LL
Ajinomoto Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience LaboratoriesASP0371-2
Glowing Natural /Organic Cosmetics Market
0
500
1,000
1,500
2,000
2,500
2004 2005 2006 2007
Num
ber o
f Pro
duct
s
Asia Pacific
Europe
North America
Latin AmericaMiddle East& Africa
Source: Mintel GNPD
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience LaboratoriesASP0371-3
“Free from” Cosmetics• Synthetic fragrances• Artificial colorants• Mineral oil• Petrochemicals• Alcohol• Parabens• PEG• SLES• Silicones• ….?
AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience LaboratoriesASP0371-4
LOHAS
Quality
GreenEnvironmentally
-friendly
Natural / Organic / “Free from” Cosmetics
Shifting Demands
Vegetableorigin
Natural origin
ReliabilityComfort
Sustainability
Life style
Sensoryaspects
PerformanceEfficacy
ASP0371E-5 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Contents• Technical challenges in development of natural
formulations• Amino acid based functional powder AMIHOPE® LL
• Characteristics• Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in natural cosmetic
formulations• Skincare emulsions• Foaming cleansing formulations
• How to incorporate AMIHOPE® LL into Liquid cleansing formulations• Recrystallized AMIHOPE® LL
• Summary
ASP0371E-6 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Technical Challenges in Development of Natural Formulations
• Viscosity building of liquid foaming formulations• More difficult to increase viscosity of natural surfactants• Synthetic polymers are not in the list => difficult to obtain
“natural”(=not jelly) viscosity
• Emulsifier• EO-type nonionics are not in the list
• Preservation• Sensorial aspects
• Silicone materials, synthetic polymers, quat-compounds are not in the list
=>Emulsions: difficult to obtain smooth spreadability, good absorbency or to reduce stickiness / greasiness
=>Hair care products: difficult to obtain good conditioning properties e.g. wet/ dry smoothness, wet / dry combability
New Technology
ASP0371E-7 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Amino Acid Based Functional Powder
AMIHOPE® LL
Chemical Name: N -Lauroyl-L-LysineCTFA INCI Name: Lauroyl Lysine
NH
O NH3+
O
O
L-Lysine
Amino acid based organic powderderived from coconut fatty acid and
naturally occurring amino acid
ECOCERT certified natural ingredient
ASP0371E-8 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AMIHOPE® LL Imparts Smooth and Even Spreadability
Lubricity
AMIHOPE® LLPolytetrafluoroethylene
Boron nitride
Talc
Mica
Nylon powder
0 0.1 0.2 0.3Kinematic frictional coefficient
• AMIHOPE® LL imparts smooth and even spreadability.
ASP0371E-9 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Amino Acid Based Functional Powder
AMIHOPE® LL• Characteristics
• Excellent lubricity…velvety smooth skin feel• Water-repelling property• High adhesion property…• Silky skin feel
• Applications• Foundations• Other color cosmetics
• Various skincare products e.g. lotions, creams,…• Finishing haircare products• Foaming cleansing products e.g. facial washes,
shampoos
Main application
ASP0371E-10 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in Skincare Emulsions
• Improvement of rub-out sensory aspects• Reduces stickiness• Natural absorbency
• Improvement of dry skin-feel• Reduces excess oiliness of greasiness• Feel moisturized without stickiness
ASP0371E-11 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in Skincare Emulsions
• Natural absorbency• Ideal moisturized skin feel without excess
oiliness or greasiness
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0171E
-0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0
Preference
Silky
Not slippery
Absorbency
Spreadability
Afterfeel
Control
AMIHOPE® LL 0.3%N=9
Rub out
ASP0371E-12 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Guide Formulation -1Natural Night Cream ECJ-33PR
(wt%)A Emollients* 24.00 total
ELDEW® PS-203 1.00 EmollientStearyl alcohol 3.80 Emulsion stabilizerCopernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax 0.10 Viscosity modifierGlyceryl stearate 2.90 EmulsifierAMIHOPE® LL 0.30 Sensory improvement
B Xanthan gum 0.20 Emulsion stabilizerWater balance
C Fragrance 0.30D Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) 1.00E Sucrose palmitate 0.40 Co-emulsifierF Citric acid + Sodium Citrate + Water 4.50 total pH adjusterG AMISOFT® HS-11P (3% aq.) 5.00 Co-emulsifierH CAE® (1% aq.) 5.00 Preservative
100.00
*Squalane, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Caprylic / Capric triglyceride 5.00 eachIsostearyl hudroxystearate, Butyrospermum parkii (shear butter) 2.00 each
Sample
ASP0371E-13 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Guide Formulation -2Natural Day Cream NC-0010• A light touch day care cream
(wt%)A Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) 3.0 Emollient
Squalane 7.0 EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 5.0 EmollientStearyl Alcohol 2.0 EmulsfierPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate 2.0 EmulsfierELDEW® PS-203 3.0 EmollientSorbitan Stearate 1.5 Emulsfier
B Water 70.0C Xanthan gum 0.2 Emulsion stabilizerD CAE® 0.1 Preservative
AMISOFT® HS-11P 0.1 Co-emulsifierE AMIHOPE® LL 1.0 Sensory improvementF Preservatives q.s.G Water balance
100.0
ASP0371E-14 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Benefits of AMIHOPE® LL in Foaming Cleansing Formulations
• Foamability improvement• Improves speed, volume or quality of the foam
• Rinsability improvement• Improves the speed, reduces friction
• Dry-skinfeel improvement• Imparts smooth, silky feel to the skin
• Opacifying / pearlizing• Imparts • Enables addition of conditioning agents with low
solubility in water
ASP0371E-15 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Natural Shower GelBenefits of AMIHOPE® LL
-0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0
Foaming speed
Foam volume
Shiney foam
Rinsability
Silky
• Improves foamability and rinsability• Smooth dry-skinfeel
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0181E
Foam
Dry-skinfeelAMIHOPE® LL
0.5%N=6
Control
ASP0371E-16 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Shower GelAMIHOPE® LL Improves Foamability• AMIHOPE® LL improves foam speed and
volume.
0.5% AMIHOPE® LLWithout AMIHOPE® LL
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0201E
10 sec.
ASP0371E-17 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Natural Hair ShampooBenefits of AMIHOPE® LL
• AMIHOPE® LL substitutes cationic polymers or silicones in a conditioning hair shampoo.
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0191E
Finger through
Hair smoothness during rinse
Detangling
Rinsability
Wet hair smoothness
Preferance
With 0.6% AMIHOPE® LL is better
Equal
WithoutAMIHOPE® LL
Is better
ASP0371E-18 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
5.5
6.0
6.5
7.0
7.5
8.0
8.5
0.1 1 10Surfactant (wt%, active)
Fric
tion
(MIU
)
Natural Hair ShampooAMIHOPE® LL Reduces Wet Friction
Rinse
0.8% AMIHOPE®LL
• AMIHOPE® LL reduces friction during rinse.
Without AMIHOPE® LL
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0221E
Rough, squeaky feel
ASP0371E-19 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Natural Hair ShampooAMIHOPE® LL Imparts Pearlescent
• AMIHOPE® LL Imparts PearlescentEnables addition of high content of conditioning agents which potentially cause clouding of the formulation
0.8% AMIHOPE®LL
Without AMIHOPE® LL
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0231E
ASP0371E-20 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Guide Formulation -3Natural Facial Wash Cream NFW-259
• A facial wash cream with low active surfactant and high emollient concentrations.
Sample(wt%)A AMISOFT® CS-22 25.0 Foaming surfactant
Coco-betaine (30%) 2.0 Co-surfactantSodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 1.6 Co-surfactantGlyceryl caprylate 2.5 Foam booster、thickenerPropanediol 7.0 MoisturizerAMIHOPE® LL 0.5 Foam & sensory improvementSodium chloride 0.3 Flash foamCitric acid (20% aq.) 3.0 pH adjusterPreservatives q.s.Water balance
B Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 4.0 EmollientMacadamia ternifolia seed oil 4.0 EmollientCyamopsis Tetragonoloba (guar) gum 1.5 Thickener
100.0pH 5.8Viscocity 5,000~7,000 mPa·s
ASP0371E-21 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Guide Formulation -4Natural Hair Shampoo <Pearl> NSPX-0019
Sample(wt%)A Xanthan gum 1.00 Viscosity modifierB Water 49.00C AMISOFT® CS-22 10.00 Foaming surfactant
Coco-glucoside 6.00 Co-surfactantGlyceryl caprylate 2.00 Foam boosterArginine C 0.30 Foam boosterWater balance
D AMIHOPE® LL 0.60 Conditioning & pearlescentLauryl glucoside 0.75Decyl glucoside 0.75Sodium hydroxide 0.18 Solubilize LLWater 2.22
E Citric acid 30% aq. 1.00F Citric acid q.s. pH adjuster
pH 5.4Viscocity 2,000~3,000 mPa·s
ASP0371E-22 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Guide Formulation -5Facial Wash Powder PWT-310
(wt%)AMISOFT® LS-11 15.0 Foaming surfactantAMISOFT® MS-11 15.0 Foaming surfactantTalc 10.0 Dispersing agentMannitol 20.0 HumectantZea mays (corn) starch 23.5 VehicleGlucose 15.0 VehicleAMIHOPE® LL 1.0 Sensory improvementAgar 0.5 Foam stabilizer
100.0
pH 5.5 (1% aq.)
Sample
• An ultra mild facial wash which imparts excellent silkiness to the skin.
ASP0371E-23 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
How to Incorporate AMIHOPE® LL into Liquid Cleansing Formulations
• Water repelling property =>difficult to disperse stably in an aqueous solution such as a liquid cleansing formulation, especially when the viscosity is low.
• How aggregation and separation ( surfacing / settling ) can be avoided ?
ASP0371E-24 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
How to Incorporate AMIHOPE® LL into Liquid Cleansing Formulations
•AMIHOPE® LL is soluble in a strong alkaline solution.Dispersibility often improves by using “AMIHOPE®LL solubilizing process”.
•Two PossibilityI. Add the AMIHOPE® LL alkaline solution to the
formulation to neutralize in it.II. Prepare a concentrate of recrystallized AMIHOPE®
LL and add it to the formulation.
AMIHOPE® LLalkaline solution
Base formulation
Formulation containingAMIHOPE® LL
RecrystallizedAMIHOPE® LL
concentratePrecipitation
Process I. Process II.
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0241E
ASP0371E-25 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessDispersibility is Improved
• Dispersibility in a liquid cleansing is often improved by addition of solubilized AMIHOPE®.
Natural hair shampoos, 45oC, 1 month
AMIHOPE® LLdirect addition
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0241E
Process II.Process I.
AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing Proces
ASP0371E-26 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessMore Effective Opacifier / Pearlizer
Process I.
AMIHOPE® LLdirect addition
WithoutAMIHOPE® LL
X 400
X 400
50 m
• By the solubilizing process AMIHOPE® LL tends to become more effective as an opacifier/ pearlizer.
Technical Data Sheet No.0150-0281E
50 m
ASP0371E-27 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessProcess I.
AMIHOPE® LL 25.0Sodium hydroxide 5.0Water 70.0 part
Heat with stirring to dissolve=>cool to r.t.
Stir at r.t.
Part B: alkaline LL solution
Stir to dissolve at r.t.
Product
Opaque / Pearl deepens
AMISOFT® CS-22Sodium lauroamphoacetate
Glyceryl caprylateAJIDEW®NL-50
Water, preservative
Opaque / Pearl
Stir at r.t.
Citric acid aq.
Part B: 2%
Part A
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0251E
Clear
ASP0371E-28 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
• How to prepare AMIHOPE® LL concentrate
AMIHOPE® LL Solubilizing ProcessProcess II.
AMIHOPE® LL 12.5Sodium hydroxide 2.7Water 34.8
Stir to dissolve at r.t.
RecrystallizedAMIHOPE® LL concentrate
Neutralization
30% citric acid aq. 20.0
Technical Data Sheet No.0501-0261E
Add to a base formula
Lauryl glucoside(50%) 15.0Decyl glucoside(50%) 15.0
Clear
ASP0371E-29 AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AMIHOPE® LL in Natural Cosmetic Formulations
• AMIHOPE® LL is an amino acid based organic powder derived from coconut fatty acid and naturally occurring amino acid
• ECOCERT certified natural ingredient.• Imparts soft, characteristic lubricity and silky skinfeel.• Suitable as sensory improver for emulsions and
pearlescent surfactant formulations, particularly for silicone-free / quat-free / synthetic polymer-free, “natural”skincare or haircare products.• Dosage: 0.1 ~2.0%
• The solubilizing process is sometimes effective to disperse AMIHOPE® LL stably in aqueous cleansing formulations.