finishing buffing

Coloring Finishing

& Buffing

But Wait!!!

• The Seven Rules of Sanding

Rule 1 - We can't see in the dark

• Use a bright incandescent light,

positioned slightly behind the work, to illuminate the piece better

• Look for scratches and flaws

Rule 2 - We need air not dust

• Protect your lungs.

• Use vacuum, fans, and a dust mask

Rule 3 - Sandpaper is a cutting tool, keep it sharp and keep it

clean.

• Throw it away when it gets dull • Don't use worn-out coarse grit as a

substitute for finer grit. • Clean paper with a block of crepe

rubber.

Sandpaper Cleaner

Rule 4 - Repair the surface with as coarse an abrasive as

necessary to do the job

• The purpose for sanding with a finer

abrasives is to remove the scratch pattern made by the more coarse paper

• It makes no sense to brag about never using anything coarser than 180-grit, and then spend two hours doing the same job that could have been done in ten minutes with 60-grit.

Rule 5 - Sand through all of the progressively finer grits

without skipping • Start with as large as 60 or 80 then

proceed through 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 280, and stop at 320

• It is much faster to use all of the abrasive grits in the smallest increments possible, than to make large jumps in grit size.

• Avoid “Case Hardening”

Rule 6 - Remove all of the scratches before proceeding to

the next level

• Use the light to find and then eliminate scratches

• Mark scratches with chalk • Blow off the turning with compressed

air before proceeding to the next grit.

Rule 7 - Slow is good, and slower is even better.

• There is a universal tendency to sand too fast. Heat is the enemy.

• Don't spin the piece in the lathe so fast that the paper gets hot. If it burns your fingers, it is also burning the wood surface, and casehardening rather than cutting it.

7 Rules Of Sanding

• Ya gotta see stuff • Breathe!!! • Keep the sandpaper sharp & clean • Start with proper grade… • Don’t skip grits • Remove scratches before continuing • Slow is good, slower…even better

Coloring A Woodturning

Finishing a Woodturning

Buffing The Finish

Coloring Woodturnings • Wood Stains (water & oil based)

• Fire (burning the wood)

Coloring Woodturnings

• Wood Stains (water & oil based)

• Fire (burning the wood)

• Metal Mixtures (vinegar & steel wool)

• Dyes

DYES

• Natural Dyes (blackberries, wine, walnut husks) – Setting??

• Food – Setting??

• Fabric (RIT) – Setting??

• Anilines

What is Setting?

• The ability to soak in, dry, remain

the original color and neither fade nor run

• Anilines Dyes pass this test

Aniline Dyes History

• Discovered in the early 1800’s

• Scientist searching for Blue Dye, to dye cotton cloth

• The dyes faded & ran

• Benzene and other chemicals to make the dye “set”.

More About Anilines

• Because of the Benzene content it is poisonous

• Sold in pouches containing a powder or small bottles of liquid

• They can be alcohol or water based • It’s also available in a pre-mixed state • It can be sprayed or wiped on • A 1 oz. packet usually makes a quart

of dye

Mixing & Storing Dyes

• I use water based Anilines • Mix the dye with warm water. A pouch

makes a quart, I make a pint at a time • Store dye with tight lids in a cool dark

place. It will last about a year • Apply with cloth, brush, spray or dipping • It will dye everything, the floor, concrete,

the steel on the lathe and of course wood

Dye Demonstration

• Dyes can be layered • Start with a darker color and go to

light • Apply darker color, then sand, then

apply the next color • The dye can be adjusted with water • Leave color as you go • Finally, finish normally after its dry

Coloring A Woodturning

Finishing a Woodturning

Buffing The Finish

Types Of Finishes

• Water Based (varnishes & polys) • Waxes (beeswax, carnauba) • Oils (mineral, linseed, tung oil) • Paints (latex, oil based, milk paints,

tempuras • Oil Based Varnishes (poly’s, Spar,

Waterlox-type, Home recipe’s) • Lacquers (which I don’t use)

Good Choices For Woodturners

• Mineral Oil (thinned) • Mineral Oil & Beeswax • Spar Varnish (thinned) • Polyurethane (thinned) • Waterlox • Submarine Recipe • …..but first, what is thinner???...

Thinners

• Why a thinner? – Speeds up penetration & drying times

• VM&P Naphtha (Varnish Making & Painters)

• Turpentine

Where Does Naphtha Come From?

VM&P Naphtha

Turpentine

Thinners

• VM&P Naphtha –Speeds up drying times –Helps penetration of finish –Evaporates from the finish

• Turpentine (pure gum) –Very useful for waxes –Natural oils become part of the finish –Mineral turpentine is mineral spirits

Good Finish Choices For Woodturners

• Mineral Oil (thinned) • Mineral Oil & Beeswax • Spar Varnish (thinned) • Polyurethane (thinned) • Waterlox • The Submarine Method

Mineral Oil

• Food safe • Inexpensive • Great for rolling pins, honey dippers,

cutting boards • Many woodturners add beeswax for

salad bowls and plates • Apply with a cloth pad or foam brush

Spar Varnish

• Spar varnish is made to be water resistant (oil, resin, UV)

• It offers flexibility to move with the wood

• Resistant to frequent handling • Can be thinned with Naphtha or

Turpentine to make a “Wipe On” varnish

Polyurethane (thinned)

• Poly gives higher gloss with fewer coats.

• Fast drying (tacky in 30 minutes) • 2 year shelf life • Apply with lathe running and spin • Use polyurethane and convert to a

“wipe on” using naphtha or turpentine

Waterlox

• Waterlox costs $35 a quart • Comes in Satin or Gloss • Dries to “tack”, very, very fast • Can be thinned with Naphtha and

should be thin, especially in the heat • Apply with lathe running and spin

• Why do we spin the woodturning after application of finish?

• It evens the finish • It helps it get tacky faster • It’s the method that Ed Moulthrup

used

The Submarine Method

• Perfect for smaller objects and to paint on shop furniture.

• Submerge the piece in a container of finish for 1 hour

• Allow to drip and wipe off excess • Let it dry for several days • Wipe off any that refuses to dry • Buff it

Recipe For Submarine Mix

• 1 Gallon Boiled Linseed Oil • 2 Gallons Turpentine • 1 quart Spar Varnish • ½ cup of Japan Drier especially if

below 65 degrees • Store in a large airtight container

Finishing Demo • Thin the finish ahead of time • Cover the ways with newspaper • Dispense from a squirt bottle • …while the turning is turning away

from you…. • Spread with a pad • Let it spin for 15 to 30 minutes which

helps keep the finish even (Ed Moulthrup Method)

Coloring A Woodturning

Finishing a Woodturning

Buffing The Finish

Beall Buffing System

• 1 version consists of 3 cotton wheels mounted on a bar with a #2 morse taper that can be powered by the lathe

• 2 version is 3 cotton wheels that spin independently of the lathe if needed

• 1 each of Tripoli compound, White Diamond compound, and carnauba wax

Three Cotton Wheels (No Shaft)

Three Cotton Wheels (Shaft)

Using The Beall System

• Sand to 320 • Apply Finish and let it dry • Charge each wheel – buff turning • Use 1st wheel with tripoli • Use 2nd wheel with White Diamond • Use 3rd wheel with Carnauba Wax

Using The Beall System

• Buff at 1500 RPM • Blow off the turning with compressed

air after the Tripoli and the white diamond wheel

• If the Tripoli gets caked on its wheel, clean it off with a piece of coarse sandpaper mounted on a flat piece of wood

• Use small amounts of White & Wax

Quickie Demo Of The Beal Buffing System

Dyes – Waterlox – Buffing

Additional resource information or

questions:

les@woodthatrocks.com

Or

My contact page on my website which is linked on our club website