finishing buffing
TRANSCRIPT
Coloring Finishing
& Buffing
But Wait!!!
• The Seven Rules of Sanding
Rule 1 - We can't see in the dark
• Use a bright incandescent light,
positioned slightly behind the work, to illuminate the piece better
• Look for scratches and flaws
Rule 2 - We need air not dust
• Protect your lungs.
• Use vacuum, fans, and a dust mask
Rule 3 - Sandpaper is a cutting tool, keep it sharp and keep it
clean.
• Throw it away when it gets dull • Don't use worn-out coarse grit as a
substitute for finer grit. • Clean paper with a block of crepe
rubber.
Sandpaper Cleaner
Rule 4 - Repair the surface with as coarse an abrasive as
necessary to do the job
• The purpose for sanding with a finer
abrasives is to remove the scratch pattern made by the more coarse paper
• It makes no sense to brag about never using anything coarser than 180-grit, and then spend two hours doing the same job that could have been done in ten minutes with 60-grit.
Rule 5 - Sand through all of the progressively finer grits
without skipping • Start with as large as 60 or 80 then
proceed through 100, 120, 150, 180, 220, 280, and stop at 320
• It is much faster to use all of the abrasive grits in the smallest increments possible, than to make large jumps in grit size.
• Avoid “Case Hardening”
Rule 6 - Remove all of the scratches before proceeding to
the next level
• Use the light to find and then eliminate scratches
• Mark scratches with chalk • Blow off the turning with compressed
air before proceeding to the next grit.
Rule 7 - Slow is good, and slower is even better.
• There is a universal tendency to sand too fast. Heat is the enemy.
• Don't spin the piece in the lathe so fast that the paper gets hot. If it burns your fingers, it is also burning the wood surface, and casehardening rather than cutting it.
7 Rules Of Sanding
• Ya gotta see stuff • Breathe!!! • Keep the sandpaper sharp & clean • Start with proper grade… • Don’t skip grits • Remove scratches before continuing • Slow is good, slower…even better
Coloring A Woodturning
Finishing a Woodturning
Buffing The Finish
Coloring Woodturnings • Wood Stains (water & oil based)
• Fire (burning the wood)
Coloring Woodturnings
• Wood Stains (water & oil based)
• Fire (burning the wood)
• Metal Mixtures (vinegar & steel wool)
• Dyes
DYES
• Natural Dyes (blackberries, wine, walnut husks) – Setting??
• Food – Setting??
• Fabric (RIT) – Setting??
• Anilines
What is Setting?
• The ability to soak in, dry, remain
the original color and neither fade nor run
• Anilines Dyes pass this test
Aniline Dyes History
• Discovered in the early 1800’s
• Scientist searching for Blue Dye, to dye cotton cloth
• The dyes faded & ran
• Benzene and other chemicals to make the dye “set”.
More About Anilines
• Because of the Benzene content it is poisonous
• Sold in pouches containing a powder or small bottles of liquid
• They can be alcohol or water based • It’s also available in a pre-mixed state • It can be sprayed or wiped on • A 1 oz. packet usually makes a quart
of dye
Mixing & Storing Dyes
• I use water based Anilines • Mix the dye with warm water. A pouch
makes a quart, I make a pint at a time • Store dye with tight lids in a cool dark
place. It will last about a year • Apply with cloth, brush, spray or dipping • It will dye everything, the floor, concrete,
the steel on the lathe and of course wood
Dye Demonstration
• Dyes can be layered • Start with a darker color and go to
light • Apply darker color, then sand, then
apply the next color • The dye can be adjusted with water • Leave color as you go • Finally, finish normally after its dry
Coloring A Woodturning
Finishing a Woodturning
Buffing The Finish
Types Of Finishes
• Water Based (varnishes & polys) • Waxes (beeswax, carnauba) • Oils (mineral, linseed, tung oil) • Paints (latex, oil based, milk paints,
tempuras • Oil Based Varnishes (poly’s, Spar,
Waterlox-type, Home recipe’s) • Lacquers (which I don’t use)
Good Choices For Woodturners
• Mineral Oil (thinned) • Mineral Oil & Beeswax • Spar Varnish (thinned) • Polyurethane (thinned) • Waterlox • Submarine Recipe • …..but first, what is thinner???...
Thinners
• Why a thinner? – Speeds up penetration & drying times
• VM&P Naphtha (Varnish Making & Painters)
• Turpentine
Where Does Naphtha Come From?
VM&P Naphtha
Turpentine
Thinners
• VM&P Naphtha –Speeds up drying times –Helps penetration of finish –Evaporates from the finish
• Turpentine (pure gum) –Very useful for waxes –Natural oils become part of the finish –Mineral turpentine is mineral spirits
Good Finish Choices For Woodturners
• Mineral Oil (thinned) • Mineral Oil & Beeswax • Spar Varnish (thinned) • Polyurethane (thinned) • Waterlox • The Submarine Method
Mineral Oil
• Food safe • Inexpensive • Great for rolling pins, honey dippers,
cutting boards • Many woodturners add beeswax for
salad bowls and plates • Apply with a cloth pad or foam brush
Spar Varnish
• Spar varnish is made to be water resistant (oil, resin, UV)
• It offers flexibility to move with the wood
• Resistant to frequent handling • Can be thinned with Naphtha or
Turpentine to make a “Wipe On” varnish
Polyurethane (thinned)
• Poly gives higher gloss with fewer coats.
• Fast drying (tacky in 30 minutes) • 2 year shelf life • Apply with lathe running and spin • Use polyurethane and convert to a
“wipe on” using naphtha or turpentine
Waterlox
• Waterlox costs $35 a quart • Comes in Satin or Gloss • Dries to “tack”, very, very fast • Can be thinned with Naphtha and
should be thin, especially in the heat • Apply with lathe running and spin
• Why do we spin the woodturning after application of finish?
• It evens the finish • It helps it get tacky faster • It’s the method that Ed Moulthrup
used
The Submarine Method
• Perfect for smaller objects and to paint on shop furniture.
• Submerge the piece in a container of finish for 1 hour
• Allow to drip and wipe off excess • Let it dry for several days • Wipe off any that refuses to dry • Buff it
Recipe For Submarine Mix
• 1 Gallon Boiled Linseed Oil • 2 Gallons Turpentine • 1 quart Spar Varnish • ½ cup of Japan Drier especially if
below 65 degrees • Store in a large airtight container
Finishing Demo • Thin the finish ahead of time • Cover the ways with newspaper • Dispense from a squirt bottle • …while the turning is turning away
from you…. • Spread with a pad • Let it spin for 15 to 30 minutes which
helps keep the finish even (Ed Moulthrup Method)
Coloring A Woodturning
Finishing a Woodturning
Buffing The Finish
Beall Buffing System
• 1 version consists of 3 cotton wheels mounted on a bar with a #2 morse taper that can be powered by the lathe
• 2 version is 3 cotton wheels that spin independently of the lathe if needed
• 1 each of Tripoli compound, White Diamond compound, and carnauba wax
Three Cotton Wheels (No Shaft)
Three Cotton Wheels (Shaft)
Using The Beall System
• Sand to 320 • Apply Finish and let it dry • Charge each wheel – buff turning • Use 1st wheel with tripoli • Use 2nd wheel with White Diamond • Use 3rd wheel with Carnauba Wax
Using The Beall System
• Buff at 1500 RPM • Blow off the turning with compressed
air after the Tripoli and the white diamond wheel
• If the Tripoli gets caked on its wheel, clean it off with a piece of coarse sandpaper mounted on a flat piece of wood
• Use small amounts of White & Wax
Quickie Demo Of The Beal Buffing System
Dyes – Waterlox – Buffing
Additional resource information or
questions:
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My contact page on my website which is linked on our club website