garment production learning to sew
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This short course was developed as a resource material for the trainer. Thismodule is one in a series of nine, which covers all competences standard in usingthe tools and supplies in level one Garment Production. Due to the demand STRUhas developed this short course for the community and other stake holder to havebetter knowledge and skills in handling the sewing equipment. Furthermore thecourse aim is to create a link for training those unskilled people in the communityto have the opportunity to learn the basic skills in use of the tools and supplies.
GARMENT PRODUCTIONLearning to Sew
RATIONALE
The development of this short course was sponsored by the ADB-PNGEMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT (EOSDP) andproduced by curriculum officers at the SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCES UNIT(STRU)
TH007ii
OCCUPATIONAL SKILLS DEVELOPMENT
SHORT COURSEFor
Papua New Guinea Non-Formal Sector
p o box 1097, waiganinational capital districtpapua new guinea.
tel: (675) 323 2633fax: (675) 323 0944
NOT FOR SALE
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 1
Learning to Sew
TABLE OF CONTENT
Course Outline 2
Competency Profile 3 – 4
• Learning to sew
Curriculum Guide 5
Overview of Learning Outcomes 6 – 7
• Define sewing
• Tools and supplies
• Sewing machine
• Sewing area
Appendix 5 7 – 14
• Instructional notes
Attachments 14 – 15
• Process of sewing
Acknowledgement 16
CONTENTS PAGES
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITYCourse: GARMENT PRODUCTIONModule code: TH007ii
Module name: Learning to sew
Learning to Sew
2
COURSE OUTLINE: Learning to sew
Module1:Workplace Health andSafety
Module 2:Learning to Sew
Module 3:Basic Hand Stitches
Module 4:Decorative Stitches
Module 5:Seams
Module 6:Types of Fullness
Module 7:Types of Attachments
Module 8:Types of Hems
Module 9:Types of Fasteners
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Duty Task
3
Learning to Sew
COMPETENCY PROFILE: Learning to sew
A. WorkplaceHealth andSafety
A1. Safety regulations A2. Hazard/risk A3. Contingencymeasures
B. Introductionto Sewing
[NECESSITIES OF
SEWING]
B1. Define sewing
B4. Sewing area
B2. Identify tools andsupplies
B3. Sewing machineoperation
C. Basic HandStitches
[BASIC CONSTRUCTION
TECHNIQUES]
C1. Tacking stitch
C4. Slip stitch
C2. Running stitch
C5. Overcasting stitch
C3. Back stitch
C6. Blanket stitch
D. Types ofDecorativeStitches
D1. Chain stitch
D4. Scross stitch
D7. French knot stitch
D2. Stem stitch
D5. Herringbone stitch
D8. Cretan stitch
D3. Satin stitch
D6. Lazy daisy stitch
E. Types ofSeams
E1. Open seam E2. French seam E3. Flat seam
F. Types ofFullness
F1. Construct darts
F4. Sew tucks
F2. Sew gathering F3. Sew pleats
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G. Types ofAttachments
G1. Attach facing
G4. Attach sleeve
G2. Attach pocket
G5. Attach cuffs
G3. Attach collar
G6. Attach placket
H. Types ofHems
H1. Sew a turned up-edge
H2. Sew a faced edge H3. Sew an enclosededge
I. Types ofFasteners
I1. Attach hooks andeyes for overlap,just meet andexposed edges
I4. Sew self grippingfasteners
I7. Make buttons andbuttonholes
I2. Sew snaps foroverlap, just meetedges and mayshow
I5. Make decorativefasteners
I3. Sew snaps
I6. Attach zipper
Duties Task
COMPETENCY PROFILE: Learning to sew
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 5
Learning to Sew
Program: TOURISM AND HOSPITALITY
Course: GARMENT PRODUCTION
Module code: TH007ii
Module name: Learning to sew
Module purpose: The purpose of the module is to orient and equip participants withessential skills and knowledge in sewing.
Nominal duration: The module will take approximately seven hours.
Prerequisites: There are no pre-requisites for this module.
Content: B1. Define sewing
B2. Tools and supplies
B3. Sewing machine operation
B4. Sewing area
Suggested delivery method: This module should be delivered using these methods:1. Explanation (what we will do) 5%
2. Demonstration (how we will do it) 15%
3. Implementation (now you do it) 70%
4. Evaluation (how good did we do it) 10%
Instructor: The trainer preferred will be a recognized trainer from the communityor a trained vocational teacher who has sewing skill.
Resource requirement: Teaching notes, charts.
Assessment method: The assessment will be given in a holistic manner through:• Short aswer• Oral questions and observation• Practical application
Assessment condition: In a classroom or a training hall with proper:
• Lighting, ventilation
• Tables and chairs
• Sewing tool and equipment
Reference: 1. Complete Guide to Sewing – The Readers Digest Association - 1976
2. Complete Book of Handcrafts – Susie Ting -1991
CURRICULUM GUIDE
Overview of Learning Outcome and AssessmentCriteria:
On successfully completion of the course theparticipants will be able to:B1. Define sewing.B2. Identify tools and supplies used in sewing.B3. Use the sewing machine using correct
procedures.B4. Set up the sewing area to suit your need.
APPENDIX 1: Training and Assessment Guide(Learning Outcome).
Learning outcome B1.1:• Define sewing.
Teaching strategy:Learning activities for the participants mustinclude the instructor to;1.1 Explain what is sewing.1.2 Identify the importance of sewing.1.3 Identify sewing terms.
Assessment condition:In a classroom situation or a training hall wherethe participants are provided with;• Teaching notes• Sample of fashions and designs
Assessment criteria:The participants have;1.1.1 Defined what is sewing.1.1.2 Outlined the importance of sewing.1.1.3 Used sewing terms correctly in given
situations.
Assessment method:The assessment will be given in a holistic mannerthrough;• Observation• Oral questioning• Short answer questions
APPENDIX 2: Training and Assessment Guide(Learning Outcome).
Learning outcome B2.1:• Identify tools and supplies used in sewing.
Teaching strategy:Learning activities for the participants mustinclude the instructor to;2.1 Identify sewing tools and supplies.2.2 Identify and explain functions of different
tools and supplies.2.3 Demonstrate use of different tools and
supplies.
Assessment condition:In a classroom situation or a training hall wherethe participants are provided with;• Teaching notes• Sewing tools and supplies
Assessment criteria:The participant has;2.2.1 Named sewing tools and supplies.2.2.2 Listed the functions of different tools and
supplies.2.2.3 Practiced use of different tools and supplies.
Assessment method:The assessment will be given in a holistic mannerthrough;• Observation• Oral questioning• Short answer questions
APPENDIX 3: Training and Assessment Guide(Learning Outcome).
Learning outcome B3.1:• Operate the sewing machine using correct
procedures.
Teaching strategy:Learning activities for the participants mustinclude the instructor to;3.1 Identify types of sewing machine.3.2 Identify parts and functions.3.3 Explain the operation process of using the
sewing machine.
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Task B3: Sewing machine operation.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 3 hours
Task B1: Introduction to sewing.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour
Task B2: Tools and supplies.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 2 hours
3.4 Identify machine needle and inserting.3.5 Demonstrate threading and winding the
bobbin.3.6 Demonstrate threading the machine.3.7 Identify basic trouble shooting problems.
Assessment condition:In a classroom situation or a training hall wherethe participants are provided with;• Teaching notes• Sewing tools and supplies• Charts• Sewing machine
Assessment criteria:The participant has;3.1.1 Listed types of sewing machines.3.2.2 Labelled parts and functions of the sewing
machine.3.3.3 Used the sewing machine following the
correct operation process.3.4.4 Inserted the needle following the correct
procedure.3.5.5 Threaded and wound the bobbin.3.6.6 Threaded the machine.3.7.7 Outlined basic trouble shooting problems.
Assessment method:The assessment will be given in a holistic mannerthrough;• Observation• Demonstration• Practical activity
APPENDIX 4: Training and Assessment Guide(Learning Outcome).
Learning outcome B4.1:• Set up the sewing area to suit your need.
Teaching strategy:Learning activities for the participants mustinclude the instructor to;4.1 Identify the set-up area.4.2 Plan the style to use to set up.
Assessment condition:In a classroom situation or a training hall wherethe participants are provided with;• Teaching notes• Sewing tools• Charts
Assessment criteria:The participants have;4.3.1 Outlined the area for set-up.4.3.2 Set-up the layout.
Assessment method:The assessment will be given in a holistic mannerthrough;• Observation• Practical demonstration• Practical application
APPENDIX 5: Instructional Notes
INTRODUCTION
Sewing is a craft involving the stitching of clothor other materials, using needle and thread.Sewing is used primarily to produce clothing andhousehold furnishing as curtains, bedclothes,upholstery, and table linens. It is also used forsails, below, skin boats and other items shapedout of flexible materials such as canvas andleather. Most sewing in the industrial world is done bymachines. Pieces of a garment are often firstlytacked together.Some people sew clothes for themselves andtheir families. More often home sewers sew torepair clothes, such as mending a torn seam orreplacing a loose button. A person who sews fora living is known as a seamstress, dressmakertailor, or garment worker.“Plain” sewing is done for functional reasons:making or mending clothing or household linens.“Fancy” sewing is primarily decorative, includingtechniques such as shirring, smocking,embroidery, or quiltingSewing is the foundation for many needle artsand crafts, such as appliqué, canvas work, andpatchwork.
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B1: Definition of sewing
Task B4: Set up sewing area.
Suggested minimum instructional time: 1 hour
SEWING TERMS
Special terms are often used in directions formaking up a garment. Some apply to fabrics andthe way to cut them; others apply to methods ofsewing. It is a help to know what they mean.
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Words DefinitionAbsorbant Fabric that has the capability to
absorb moisture.
Alteration Making changes to a pattern toprovide a better fit or a garmentafter it is made.
Batting Fiberfill, cotton, wool, or othermaterial that is flatten and usuallyon a roll and purchased in precutlengths or by yard.
Bias Runs diagonally to the straightgrain of the fabric. This is thestretchiest part on the fabric.
Bias tape Strips of fabric cut on bias, oftenturned under and pressed, andused for binding, facings, or otherapplication where there is a needfor stretch or accommodation tocurve. Often found finishingedges of a blanket or quilt. (seebinding below).
Binding Encasing the raw edges of ablanket or quilt with anotherpiece of fabric. Binding also refersto the fabric that is folded andused for encasing of the rawedges. (blanket, quilt, seam etc).
Blade The round, razor sharp portion ofa rotary cutter. Also the cutterused on a serger.
Bleeding Colour seeping out of fabric in thewash, when wearing (sometimescolour will transfer to the body orto a lighter fabric worn underneaththe bleeding fabric). Be sure andwash fabric that bleeds with likecolours or by itself.
Bolt A large roll of fabric which can beon a tubular roll or a rectangularform. Fabric usually folded rightsides together lengthwise on abolt.
Butting Bring to edges together so theytouch but do not overlap.
Casing Fabric envelope of sorts forencasing elastic, a drawstring, orsimilar material, usually along awaistline, cuff and hem.
Colour fast Holds colour even when in a wash.
Words DefinitionCording A twisted or woven “rope” or
string that is used primarily inpiping and to act as a drawstringin a waistband, or sterilizer forfrog closures.
Cutting line On a pattern, the outmost dartline is the line upon which youcut.
Dart A v shape, tapered adjustment to apattern to allow for more fullnessin the bust area or less fullness inother areas.
Facing Fabric sewn on the raw edge of agarment pieces that is turnedunder and serves as a finish forthe edge as well.
Foldline This is the actual fold of the fabricoff the bolt or a fold of your owncreation.
Gathering Making a long piece of fabric tofit with a shorter piece of fabric.
Overlock An overcast stitch to preventraveling of fabric.
Pleat A fold in fabric that is eitherinverted of folded outward.
Press Using an iron in a press/pickup/move/press pattern.
Prewash Washing fabric before using it fora garment or project to allow forany color bleeding.
Raw edge The edge of a fabric is not stitchedof finished.
Right side The right side of the fabric is thedesign side.
Seam The result of when two pieces offabrics are sewn together along aline.
Selvedge The edge of the fabric whichgenerally does not fray due tomanufactures’ finish.
Underlining Lining used to add body to agarment.
Warp Threads running the length of awoven fabric, sometimes knownas the lengthwise grain.
Weft Threads running at right angles to thelength of a woven fabric, sometimesknown as the cross grain.
Weft A method of covering the rawedges of a pocket or otheropening, can be single or doubles.
Wrongside Wrongside The wrong side of thefabric is the side upon whichthere is no design.
SEWING TOOLS
MEASURING DEVICES
• Tape measure is essential for taking bodymeasurements. Best tape choice is flexiblesynthetic or fibre glass, which will not tear orstretch: 60” length with both measurementson both sides.
• Yardstick is best device for taking long,straight measurements. Good also forchecking grainlines, making hems. Be suresurface of wood is smooth.
• T-square is useful for locating edges crossedges. Altering patterns; squaring offstraightedges. Best type is transparent witheasy-to-read markings.
• Dress makers gauge measures different sizescallops; straight side will measurebuttonholes, pleats and tucks.
• French curve it is useful when re-drawingconstruction lines on patterns, especially incurve areas, such as armholes, necklines andprincess seams.
• Sewing gauge is a 6” ruler with a slidingmarker that adjusts to desired measurement,keeps it constant when marking. Ideal forhems, tucks, pleats or button holes.
MARKING DEVICES
• Chalk in pencil form is used like any pencil;makes a thin, accurate line, fine for makingpleats, buttonholes, and similar details. Chalkcolours include white and pastel shades.
• Tracing wheels are used with dressmaker’stracing paper to transfer pattern markings tofabric. Usual choice is serrated edge wheel,suitable for most fabrics. Smooth-edged wheelmakes firmer markings on hard-to-markfabrics, protects delicate, smooth ones.
SHEARS AND SCISSORS
• Pinking shears cut zigzag, raven resistant edge.Excellent for finishing seams and raw edges onmany types of fabric, also for decorative use.Should not be used to cut out patterns.
• Scalloping shears work like pinking shears butcut more ravel-resistant edge-each round edgebecomes bias.
• Embroidery scissors, useful as well for generalneedlework, ripping, clipping and buttonholes.
• Sewing scissors come in 5” and 6” lengths.One blunt point prevents the snagging offabric when trimming.
SEWING SUPPLIES
• Threads a long, thin strand of cotton, nylon, orother fibres used in sewing. Select threadaccording to purpose. Use thread one shadedarker than the fabric, for a print or plain use adominant colour.
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B2: Sewing tools and equipment
6” Long with slide, helps youmark a hem or smaller amounts.
60” Long, takes pattern orbody measurements.
Chalk-filled pencil, makestemporary marks on fabric.
Handle & metal wheel wtihteeth, used with tracing.
1. Heavy Duty cutting of fabric.One handle larger than theother.
3. Cuts a zig-zag edgeto prevent raveling.Makes a seam finish.
2. Used to trim threads. Twohandles same size.
• Straight pins to hold pieces of two fabricstogether, comes in several lengths andthicknesses. Generally, the longer the pin, thethicker it is. Standard lengths for dress makingis 1/6th , this type known as seamstress or silkpins, is suitable for light-weight fabrics.
Used to hold pattern to fabric or 2 layers of fabric.Must lay flat on fabric.
Flat pin Coloured ball pin T-pin
Metals of which straight pins are made;
Ø Brass: Soft metal, does not rust, usually nickel-plated, retains sharp point for a long time.
Ø Steel: Sturdy metal, can rust, usually nickel-plated, least expensive, can be picked upmagnetically.
Ø Stainless steel: Strong metal, does not rust,can also be picked up magnetically.
* nickel plating sometimes leaves a black markon fabric (discard all rusty pins).
• Hand needle is a long, slender, object with apointed tip. Many types of needles are madefor hand sewing, each for specific purpose.Type and size required varies according to thework to be done and the fabric use.
General hand sewingØ Sharps: (sizes 1-12) a needle of average length
with a round eye, used for general sewing.
Ø Betweens: (sizes 1-12) short needles withround eyes; generally used for tailoring.
Ø Ball-points; (sizes 5-10) resembles sharpsexcept for the point, which is rounded topenetrate between knit yarns.
Other types of needles
Different sizes and lengths. Used to sew by hand.
• Machine needles are selected according toweight and other fabric characteristics, as wellas the thread type being used.
Ø Needle sizes range from fine (size 9) forlighter weight fabrics to heavy (size 18) forvery heavy ones.
Ø Sizes 11 and 14 are used most often forgeneral sewing. Most of the needles soldare made in a standard length that fits mostmodern machines.
Ø Always replace dulled, bent, burred, ornicked needles; they can damage fabric.
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Needle craft Darning Heavy Duty
Crewels Cotton darners Clovers
Chenille Double longs Sailmakers
Tapestry Yarn darners Curved needles
Beading
Eye
Front
Front view
Top
Side view
Side
Scarf
Roundside
Shank
Shaft
Point
Groove
Flatside
TopFlat side
Shaft Groove Eye
Point
Eye
Round side
• Sewing aids: Samples of such sewing aids arelisted here. In buying sewing tools and supplies,it is wise to begin with a few basic ones,purchasing more as the need arises. In additionto aids some common household items can beused for sewing jobs.
Ø Bobbins are spool-like thread holders thatsupply bottom thread for machine sewing.
Ø Bobbin case holds the bobbinØ Thimble protects middle finger while hand
sewing, Comes in sizes 6 (small) to 12(large) for snug fit.
Ø Seam ripper has sharp, curved edge forcutting seams open and a point for pickingout thread. Use ripper carefully to avoidaccidental cutting of fabric.
Ø Bodkin is tool shaped like along, bluntneedle and used for threading elastic orcord through a casting.
Ø Pin cushion is a safe, handy place to storepins or needles with their heads protrudingso as to take hold of them easily, keep themaccessible.
Stores pins, filled with sawdust which sharpenspins.
Takes out sewing mistakes.
Protects your finger when hand sewing.
Bobbins are spool-like thread holders that supplybottom thread for machinesewing. Made of plasticor metal, they come in different types to fitspecific machines.
A loop turner is a specially designed tool with alatch-hook device at one end. It is used to turntubing or bias cording to the right side. (2) A bias tape maker with the aid of an iron makessingle-fold bias tape. Bias tape makers areavailable in _” to 2” (6 mm to 50 mm) sizes. (5)A pointer and creaser is a flat wooden toolapproximately 4” (10 cm) long. One end ispointed, the other is rounded. The pointed end isused for pushing out small corners; the roundedend is used in conjunction with an iron to flattenseamlines or to assist finger pressing. (4) • Sewing equipment
Ø Sleeve board flat ironing surfaces on whichseams and details of narrow garmentssection (sleeve and pants legs) can beeasily pressed.
Ø Iron is a tool that is used to straighten orpress fabric. The iron can be used with orwithout steam. It is a important tool for thesewing.
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TYPES OF SEWING MACHINES
There are different types of Sewing machinesused in the country. The sewing machines listedbelow are in use.• Manual hand sewing, manually operated
commonly used in parts of the country.• Treadle sewing machine, manually operated
by paddling with foot, controlled by a machinebelt.
• Electrical sewing machine electricity operatedmachine used for lightweight sewing.
• Heavy duty sewing machine used for sewingheavy duty garments.
• Overlocker sewing machine neatening sides ofsewn seam (edging machine).
Parts and Functions of Sewing Machine Models of sewing machine may differ, but theirfundamental features are remarkably similar.
B3: Sewing machine operation
NO PART FUNCTION
1 Power stitch Connects to power.
2 Presser foot When lowered (using a lever on the back of the machine), thisholds the fabric in place.
3 Presser foot lifter Lift to release fabric after sewn.
4 Throat plate The all-purpose one is the zigzag plate, with an opening wideenough for the needle to move back and forth.
5 Feed dogs Grips the fabric as you sew.
6 Needle clamp This holds the needle in place.
7 Take-up lever The top thread passes through the take-up lever, which moves upand down in coordination with the needle.
8 Upper tension This controls the tension on the top thread. With proper tension,the regulator top. thread and bobbin thread join together inuniform stitches. If the tension is set too tight, the stitch will puckerand break. Increase the tension if the stitches are weak and loose.
9 Thread guide From the spool, thread first passes through here.
10 Spool pin These hold the thread.
11 Bobbin winder The small spool is placed upon this while the bobbin is being filled.
12 Handwheel/ This raises and lowers the needle manually.balance wheel
13 Stitch-length Use medium-length stitches for general sewing; shorter stitchesfor regulator fine fabrics; longer stitches for heavier fabrics, basting,and gathering.
14 Stitch-width regulator This determines the width of zigzag stitches.
15 Bobbin case/bobbin Holds the bobbin.
16 Foot control Controls the movement of needle.
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12
13
14
15
16
2
3
4 56
9
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TO INSERT A MACHINE NEEDLE
1. Loosen the needle clam screw.2. Push needle up into clamp as far as possible,
with the flat side of the shank facing awayfrom you and the groove of the needle facingtoward the last thread guide.
3. Tighten needle clamp screw. (this procedure iscorrect for most machines but it is wiser tocheck the instruction books that accompaniesyour machine).
4. To remove a needle, reverse the insertionprocess.
PROCESS OF USING THE SEWING MACHINE
1. Prepared plain exercise paper with ruled line.2. Set up the hand sewing machine with the
machine needle attached (without the thread).3. Lift the pressure foot at the back of the needle
bar.4. Place the plain paper under the pressure foot
over the feed dog.5. Bring the pressure foot down; it should hold
the paper firmly against the feed dog.6. Turn the handle slowing, your eye focusing on
the paper and the needle, once yourconcentration is focused, gradually increasethe speed .
7. Sew; follow the ruled line on the paper untilyou familiarized yourself in handling thesewing machine.
Note: See attachment
UPPER THREADING
1. Place thread on the spool pin. Take hold ofthread end.
2. Pass thread and through first thread guide3. Bring thread down toward the tension
assembly4. Pass thread under and around tension discs,
taking care that it falls between two if thediscs.
5. Pull thread upward and then let it go slack.This allows thread to be caught by the hookand thread check spring, which hold thread inposition between tension disc.
6. Bring thread up and behind next thread guide.7. Pass thread into take-up lever.8. Bring thread down and through thread guides9. Pass thread end through eye of the needle,
being sure that it goes in proper direction formachine. Pull at least 3” of thread throughneedle.
THREAD AND WIND THE BOBBIN
1. Place thread on the spool pin.2. Bring thread to the thread guide.3. Down to the thread guide (where the tension is).4. Across to tension spring.5. Roll around bobbin.6. Loosen nut where the wheel is.7. Run the machine to wind the bobbin.
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PROBLEM SOLUTION
Needle is incorrectly inserted Carefully re-insert needles
Needle is wrong size Select needle of the proper conformation and size, andinsert.
Needle is damaged or dirty Replace with a perfect needle
Trouble in stitching or unevenness in Bobbin must be evenly windstitching (uneven winding of bobbin)
Loose stitches on the top Adjust the bobbin case (tighten or loosen nut) or thethread the bobbin case correctly
Loose stitches at the bottom Thread the machine properly
Thread breaks while sewing Adjust the tension, thread machine correctly or use(wrong thread used) correct thread
BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING PROBLEMS IN THE PROCESS OF SEWING
Find a space in the home to spare for yoursewing to take place. The sewing necessities areactually very few, and can be accommodated in arelatively small area.To function efficiently, all items should be at aconvenient place where they can be reachedeasily.To set-up a sewing area specific items needed toplace in the sewing area:• Work table: To set up the sewing machine,
making sure that the table is stable and strong,about 30 inches high, approximately 18 to 20inches from front to back and 35 – 40 incheswide.
• Chair: Comfortable chair cushion seat, so nobody part gets all the pressure.
• Cupboard: To store all sewing tools andsupplies, a cupboard with different drawers forspecific items.
ATTACHMENTS
ANATOMY OF A NEEDLE
The key features of a standard machine needleare called out below. Their configuration variesfrom needle type to type.
ShankTop of needle that inserts into machine; mostoften has round front and flat back, which seatsneedle in right position.
ShaftBody of needle below shank. Shaft thicknessdetermines needle size.
Front grooveSlit above needle eye, should be large enough to"cradle" thread for smooth stitches.
PointNeedle tip that penetrates fabric to pass thread tobobbin-hook and form stitch. Shape of pointvaries among needle types.
ScarfIndentation at back of needle. A long scarf helpseliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbinhook to loop thread more easily. A shorter scarfrequires a more perfectly timed machine.
EyeHole in end of needle through which threadpasses. Needle size and type determine size andshape of eye.
B4: Sewing area
SEWING MACHINE
Operation Safety Precautionsv Make sure all other participants/trainees keep
away from the immediate work area at alltimes.
v Remove the cover from the sewing machineand replace it on the back of the chair beforeuse.
v One person only is to operate a sewingmachine at anytime.
v Do not touch a sewing machine whilst anotherperson is operating it
v Turn the power off when making adjustmentsto the sewing machine.
v Examples include changing the pressure footand the needle.
v Never raise the sewing machine at high speed.v Take care not to machine over pins.v Make sure the take-up lever is in the upper
most position before pulling out the fabric andcutting threads.
MAINTENANCE
Oilingv Keep the sewing machine well oiled. Oil it
every 8 -10 hours of actual sewing or once amonth or when you are sewing after themachine has not been used for a few months.Be sure not to over oil. After oiling, sew a fewstitches on a small swatch of fabric to observeany excess before beginning your project.
Cleaningv Along with oiling; it is important to keep the
machine as free of lint (fine fibres whichseparate from cloth or yarn during processing)as possible. Remove needle plate to clean lintfrom the feed dogs, under the needle plate,and in the shuttle area of the bobbin. Do notuse “canned air’ to clean your machine as thismay push debris further into the machine.
Shiningv Wipe the surface of the machine with a clean
soft, damp cloth. Do not use abrasives on yourmachine and do not place pieces of tape on it.Seam guides can be purchased from the shopsor the dealer. Clean the LMD screen with asoft, damp cloth and never use alcohol orsolvent on the machine.
Storagev Avoid exposing the sewing machine to extreme
temperatures. Do not store it in a room that iscold, hot or humid. Cover the machine whennot in use to keep and lint to a minimum.
SAFETY RULES
Safety is very important in Sewing. To make surethat everyone can learn and have fun in a safeenvironment, keep the following rules in mind:1. ALWAYS: Place your coats, books and bags in
separate places, away from your sewing area.2. ALWAYS: Leave your shoes on during sewing
class. You do not want to accidentally step ona pin or needle.
3. ALWAYS: Look under your fabric beforecutting with scissors and carry scissors withthe sharp edge pointing towards the floor.When the scissors are not being used, placethem on the cutting table, sewing table, or inyour sewing box.
4. ALWAYS: Measure the thread to the length ofyour arm.
5. ALWAYS: Thread the needle with cautionbefore starting to sewing on your fabric.
6. ALWAYS: Remove the pins from your fabricas you sew and place them in the pin cushionafter you use them. NEVER put straight pinsor needles in your mouth.
7. ALWAYS: Place the iron in the uprightposition after use. When using the iron holdit by the handle only.
8. ALWAYS: Let your teacher/trainer help youuse the seam ripper (unpicker).
9. ALWAYS: Place your seam gauge, ruler,scissors and pins in the sewing box afterusing them.
10. ALWAYS: Listen to the teacher’s/trainer’sinstructions.
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT 15
Learning to Sew
EMPLOYMENT ORIENTED SKILLS DEVELOPMENT PROJECT - SKILLS TRAINING RESOURCE UNIT
Learning to Sew
16
This short course module, developed in Papua New Guinea, is based on the competency-based trainingmodel.The Skill Training Resource Unit (STRU) of Employment Oriented Skills Development Project (EOSDP)in conjunction with Department (TVET) division and the implementing agency Department forCommunity Development Services wish to express their thanks to the people who have contributed inproducing the module.We hope it will provide basic knowledge and skills for the informal and the formal sectors especially thewomen, men and the youth to be employed or self-employed through having better skills for tomorrow.
Acknowledgement
p o box 1097, waiganinational capital districtpapua new guinea.
tel: (675) 323 2633fax: (675) 323 0944
The development of this short course wassponsored by the ADB-PNGEMPLOYMENT SKILLS DEVELOPMENTPROJECT (EOSDP) and produced bycurriculum officers at the SKILLSTRAINING RESOURCES UNIT (STRU)
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