klip rambut

Do you know a little girl who loves putting clips in her hair? 

Want to make some?

 Come on, of course you do……who doesn’t have/know a little girl that could use some

loveliness?? 

They are a fuss free project. And no sewing machine skills required. Only a little hand sewing……and only if you want to. Completely optional. :o)

You’ll need:

Snap Clips (no idea what they are really called)

Variety of Felt

Thread

Hot Glue

Buttons/Beads/Etc

First, cut out your background piece of felt (using the clip as a sizing guide), that will later be attached to the clip.

First, cut out your background piece of felt (using the clip as a sizing guide), that will later be attached to the clip.

Cut out whatever sort of shapes you’d like to place on top of your background piece.

Stitch around your shapes with some thread and add any buttons, beads, etc.

(I used these little beads for the eye.)

Stitch around the main background piece, just to finish off the look. Then attach the whole thing to your metal clip, by stitching on each end. (Mine had little holes to stitch through but you could

also just loop it around a section of the clip.) Be sure to only go halfway through the felt while

attaching the clip to it, so you don’t see any of the thread on the other side.

Then I dabbed a little hot glue over my knots, just to secure them. And really, you could use any type of glue. I just love my ‘ol glue gun. She serves me well!!

Then cut out another piece of felt that is the same color and shape as your main background piece. Make a slit on one end and slide the skinny part of your clip through. (Can you see the slit

in my picture? If not, click on the picture to enlarge it.)

Glue this piece of felt to the main piece, right around the edges. This just keeps everything clean and neat.

Then, clip right in to your little lady’s hair.

So Lovely.

First, decide how big of a cover you’d like.  My pillow size was 16 x 16 inches, so I cut out 2 pieces of orange cotton and 2 pieces of fusible interfacing that were all 17 x 17 inches.  (If you

use a sturdier fabric, you can skip the interfacing.)

Then I ironed each piece of interfacing to the wrong sides of the 2 pieces of fabric.

Then I placed all 49 buttons (7 rows of 7) on top of one of the pieces of fabric.  (You can decide how many buttons you’d like depending on the size and spacing that you prefer.  And try

searching etsy or ebay for a good deal on a bag of buttons.  I found mine on ebay for only a few dollars.)

Space them evenly in the center of your pillow.

Then I used fabric chalk to make a temporary line around the buttons……helping to keep the buttons centered as I stitched them to the pillow.

Then I hand-stitched each of the outer buttons in place first, so that my square of buttons would be straight and even.

Then I filled in the square and attached all of the other buttons.

Here’s a view from the back.  Take note that I didn’t knot each button separately.  I looped each button hole a few times, then went on to the next button.  I only knotted the thread when I ran

out……then started with a fresh piece of thread.

Then I placed that aside and grabbed a package of bias tape piping.  (One package of 2 1/2 yards was plenty for me.)  I started pinning the piping to the middle of one of the sides of the

pillow, making sure to line up the raw edges of the piping with the raw edges of the pillow.  (See how the rolled edge of the piping is facing towards the inside of the pillow?)

Then, as I got to a corner, I made a slit in the raw edge of the piping, so that it would turn the corner….and continued pinning.  (Be careful to not cut through the piping.)

Then as I got back to the original side, I re-pinned the first end, so that it gradually veered off the pillow edge.

Then I placed the second end over top of the first and veered the very end off of the pillow too.  (I did this so that the raw ends wouldn’t show when I finished.  This will make more sense after

you finish sewing and turn the pillow right side out.)

Then I sewed all the way around the pillow, keeping the raw edges of the pillow and the piping lined up……..and sewed as close to the piping that I could. 

Make sure to use your zipper foot so that you can get the needle as close to the cording as possible.

Here is a view of the corner, all sewn……

And along the straight edge.

Then place the two sides of the pillow together, with right sides together.  Pin in place.

Then sew the two pieces together, with the back side of the pillow up (where you just attached the piping), the outer edges even, and using the seam along the back side as a guide as you sew

right on top of it.  This will help you keep both sides even and will allow only the cording part of the piping to poke out after turning the pillow right side out.

Make sure to leave a wide opening along one side, where you will insert your pillow.

Then clip your corners and zig-zag around the raw edges of the pillow (except for the wide opening).

Then turn it right side out, poke out the corners (that will appear a bit rounded), and then press flat.

Also, press your opening towards the inside, making hand-stitching easier in the next step.

Then blind-stitch the opening closed with a needle and thread.  (Need help with hand-stitching? 

Go here for help.)

That’s it.Fluff up and toss on your chair, couch, bed, or wherever…

First, decide how big of a cover you’d like.  My pillow size was 16 x 16 inches, so I cut out 2 pieces of orange cotton and 2 pieces of fusible interfacing that were all 17 x 17 inches.  (If you

use a sturdier fabric, you can skip the interfacing.)\\

Now my girlies have a few more pops of color to add to their hair.   Man, I love summer!

Keep in mind, these flowers can be made in any size and can be used on anything; hair, bags, pillows, clothing, wall hangings, etc. 

You know you need a flower or two for something. :)

Want to make a few flowers too?

To get started, I used a variety of knit fabrics from my stash.  They were all a jersey knit type of fabric (cut from ladies shirts and one skirt) and were all relatively thin.  Whatever you use doesn’t really matter but just be sure it’s not too thick and make sure it’s knit…..so that it won’t fray.

Then start cutting your fabric into strips.  Your strip size will depend on how big you want your flower to be.  For my bigger flowers on the headband, the strips were about 2.5-3 inches wide and were about 20 inches long.  The smaller flowers on the clips were strips of fabric about 1.5 inches wide and maybe 15 inches long. 

Then, load up your bobbin with elastic thread and get ready to shirr (or smock) your strip of fabric.  (Need help with shirring?  Go here.)  Start at one corner and start making zig-zags all the way down your strip of fabric.  The seam should all be one continuous line.  You’ll have to use your fingers to keep it stretched out as you sew…….

………because once you let go, it will shrivel right up.

If your zig-zags are too narrow, your fabric will most likely just roll up.  But if you keep the zig-zags wider and more spread out, you will create a nice scallop along each side of the fabric (which is what you want).  Go on and practice a few times to get that scallop look.

Then, heat up your hot glue gun.  Start at one end and tuck your end under and glue it in place.

Then begin winding your fabric around that center tuck and glue as you go.

Keep winding around the center, making sure to not pull too tight.  The scallop of the shirring gives the flower shape and dimension.  So just go with it.

Once you get to the end (or you have a flower that is big enough), cut off any excess fabric, add a bit of glue to the end, and tuck it under to the bottom.

And then make a few more.

If you want a cluster of flowers, glue them to each other and add a few leaves (made from green knit scraps).

Then cut out a piece of felt that will cover most of the back and then glue it down.  This will anchor the flowers down a little better.

Then, you can hot glue a headband to the back.  If the headband and glue are bothersome, glue another piece of felt down to cover the headband.

Or if you’d rather, add clips to the back of your flowers.  (Don’t forget to cover your clips with ribbon.  Or the no-slip-grip on your clips.  Go here for more info.)

And that’s it.

Pretty and textured and ready to be worn.

Enjoy.

So, this sack is perfect for them.  And is easy to open and close.  And is personalized…….just for her!

And yeah, I guess they’re kinda cute……but I’m not sure why she’s so obsessed with them.  Is it just an age thing?  Any other 6ish year old’s out there, who are ga-ga over these little plastic animals with HUGE heads/eyeballs?!?!

If you don’t have “pet” collectors at home……I’m sure you have legos, barbie clothes, army men, tea sets, etc.  Need a quick sack for them? 

Or wait, you don’t have kids at home?  I’m SURE you have colored pencils, glue sticks, clothes pins, buttons, etc……just laying around.  Maybe you need a little sack to tidy up that junk drawer where you keep stashing stuff!  Ha……caught you! ;)

Anyway, we bought Elli a little tree house that her little animals can play in…..but I know they’re going to fall right out of it when she’s not playing with it. At least now, I don’t have to worry about where she’s going to store them. 

Whew.  Check that off the get-ready-for-Elli’s-bday-party list!!

Would you like to make one too?

 My little ‘Toy Sack’ ended up measuring about 11 inches wide and 11 inches tall.  But really, you could make this any ol’ size.  But if you want to make this exact size, here’s how:

All you need, is 4 pieces of fabric……and a little ribbon (not pictured).  Cut the pieces like shown below.

***Fabric is Riley Blake Designs, HAPPIER

Then, if you want to add lettering to the fabric, you can use fabric paint, iron on fusible vinyl (which is what I used on this bag, using my Silhouette craft cutter), or sew on some fabric letters.  Whatever you choose, do so before moving on.

Then sew the middle sized rectangle (mine is blue polka) down to one of the large rectangles, 4 inches from the bottom and centered right and left.  Sew about an 1/8 of an inch from the edge, all the way around.  Then sew the smallest rectangle down into the center of the middle sized one, sewing around the edges the same way.  (If the fabric frays a bit, no worries.  It just adds to the charm.)

Then serge (or zig-zag) around the edges of the two large rectangle pieces.

Then, place the two pieces together, with right sides together, and sew all the way around the bottom and 2 sides (using a 1/4 inch seam allowance).  But stop 2 inches from the top on both sides.

Then, looking at the side seams from the “wrong” side of the fabric, fold over the opening edges a 1/4 inch towards the “wrong” side and sew in place.

Then turn over to the “right” side of the fabric and sew a narrow zig-zag stitch right below this 2 inch long opening.  Do the same to both sides of the sack.

Then, while the sack is inside out, fold the top edge down 1 inch, then sew in place, right along the very bottom edge.

Now, you can leave your sack just how it is……..or you can box out the bottom a bit, so that it will sit up a little better.  To do so, there are more pictures to describe the process at my large tote tutorial.  Measure 1.5 inches from the top point and sew your line of stitching.

Do the same to the other corner…..then turn right side out and iron your seams flat.

For your pull strings……..you can sew up a tube of fabric, use cording, or find some ribbon like I did.  You’ll need 2 pieces that are equal in length.  For more info on stringing it through, visit my fishy purse tutorial.

Then knot the ends.

And that’s it.  Hooray!

Now, bag up those itty bitty toy parts and appreciate having a little “home” for them!

A bright white one, with vibrant and full orange flowers on it.

Made by folding and sewing dozens of little circles.

And I decided that it sits really nicely atop that little Tumbler quilt that I made here.

You can make one of these even without a Go! Cutter……..but it sure saved me a lot of time to use one.

First, I cut a 17.5 x 17.5 inch piece of white cotton material to use for my pillow cover. I actually cut 4 pieces this same size, so that I could double layer each side of the pillow.

Then, I layed scraps of fabric on top of the circle die cut……….

Placed the mat on top…….

Then rolled it on through……….

I cut 6 circles for each flower and placed each pile of 6 circles, where I thought I’d like them, on one of the white square pieces.

Then I removed all but one circle from each of the piles, and pinned that one circle down…….to hold its spot.

Then I began making each flower by folding one circle in half……..

Then folding it over a little more than a third………..

Then flipped it over and folded the last almost-third over, centering it over the section below it. I didn’t fold it in even thirds because I wanted the bottom section to be bigger than the top, to give more

fullness to the flower later on.

Then I removed the circle from the pillow, and replaced it with one of the folded circles………

…..and made 5 more folded pieces to complete a circle. Pin all 6 pieces in place.

I did the same thing with each sized circle.

Then I placed each circle under my sewing machine needle…….and slid each pin outwards, away from the center. (I’m using an embroidery foot, but a regular foot will work too.)

Then, I sewed a small circle in the center, making sure to grab a piece of each of the 6 points.

Then, I sewed around and around, making a spiral look in the center of each flower……and tacking it down nice and secure at the same time. And don’t worry about precision. I like the uneven-ness of the

center.

Repeat with all the flowers.

Then place this square piece on top of another of your white square pieces…..making it a double layer.

Then, I placed the other 2 white layers on top….which will be the back of the pillow cover.

I pinned all sides and corners in place…

Then I sewed around the edges, using a 1/2 inch seam allowance……except for leaving about an 8 inch opening on one side, to turn the pillow cover right side out. Then I clipped the corners, zig-zagged

around all the sides, and trimmed off the excess.

Here’s the opening.

Next, I turned the cover right side out, poked out the corners, and ironed it flat.

I also folded over the opening a 1/2 inch and ironed that flat too.

Want to know a secret about where I find my pillow inserts? I usually find them at Ross…….and are home

If you’d like to know how to line one of your billion baskets you have cluttering up your house, you’re in the right spot.

Now seriously, you can tie together a whole bunch of random baskets by lining them with matching fabric. It’s quite a beautiful thing.

All you’ll need is some fabric, a sewing machine, and some thread. Oh, and square rectangle basket.

First, you’ll measure from how far down you’d like the liner to go over one edge (I did 2 inches), up to the top, down the side, across the bottom, up the other side to the top and then over 2

inches or however far you’d like it to go. Then you’ll add another 1 1/2 inches for your casing for the tie. For example, mine measured 26 inches from one side, up and over and down and

back up and over again. Then I added another 1 1/2 inches onto both sides for the casing to make it 29 inches.

Then measure the width of your inner basket. Mine was 15 inches wide. Add 1/2 inch onto both ends for a seam allowance…….which made mine 16 inches.

So I cut out my main piece at 29 x 16 inches.

Then measure the dimensions of the ends of your basket. The width of my ends were 10 inches and I added a 1/2 inch on each side for a seam allowance, making it 11 inches. And the height of

my ends are 6 inches. So I added a half inch to the bottom for the seam allowance, 2 inches to the top to be folded over the edge, and then another 1 1/2 inches to make the casing for the tie.

So I cut 2 end pieces that are 11 x 10 inches.

Then I found the center of my main piece (on the 29 inch side) and marked it with a pin. And then I found the center of one of the end pieces (on the 11 inch side) and put the two pieces of

fabric together, with right sides together.

Then I pinned all along the 11 inch side (the width of the basket end) until the corners.

Then I folded the extra sides of the main piece down along the sides of the the end pieces and pinned them into place, making a nice corner with both pieces of fabric. (Man, this is hard to

explain…..but keep with me. It’s not so hard to do!!)

Sew into place. Then do a zig-zag stitch right next to your main stitch, to help keep everything secure and in place.

Do the same thing to the other end.

Now, trim any excess/uneven edges.

Now find the center of one side (of the long sides) and make a cut 2 1/2 inches up.

Zig-zag stitch both of these raw edges.

Then fold over and pin.

Now fold over the entire upper edge a 1/2 inch and then another 1 inch to make your casing. Sew close to the first fold, securing your casing into place.

Now you’ll make a tie by cutting out a piece of fabric that is 1 1/2 inches wide by however long your basket is around at the upper edge. Also, make it long enough to be able to tie a bow. I

made mine 70 inches long so I cut out a piece of fabric that was 70 x 1 1/2 inches.

First fold your end in 1/4 inch and then fold each side in towards the middle (iron in place if needed)…..

…….and then fold this in half.

Then sew into place, close to the folds.

Then thread your tie through your casing, place your lining in your basket and make a bow with your tie ends.

So fresh and clean.

Add magazines, books, shoes, toys, etc. Use up all of those mis-matchy baskets and liven up your plac

I cut the bottle out with some kitchen scissors but a box cutter (or exacto knife) would work too.  I just have more control with scissors…….so I used them for this part.  I cut along the line until I

was left with my phone holder shape.

Then, I drew a curved box shape on the upper back of the bottle.  Then I cut it out.  (What worked best for me was using a box cutter/exacto knife with a cutting board underneath.  This

helped my control a ton.)  Then I used sand paper to smooth out all of the edges.

Like I mentioned above……you could now try spray paining and adding vinyl or stenciling it to finish your look.  Do whatever is best for you.

But here’s how I added the fabric:

First, you want to sand the surface of the whole thing.  This will really help to rough it up so that the Mod Podge will stick really well in the next steps.  Also, I didn’t want that blue ink to show

through from the other side, so I sanded most of the lettering off too.  Worked great.

Then, I cut a piece of fabric that was big enough to wrap around the phone holder and was also an inch or two taller on the top and bottom.

Then, I turned the phone holder with the front facing me, and applied a generous layer of Mod Podge to the front.

Next, place the fabric right on top, centering it where it needs to go.

Then, apply more Mod Podge around the side of the container and continue to lay the fabric down right against it, pulling tightly as you wrap.  Also, be sure to pull the fabric down around

the curve of the bottom of your bottle, if needs be.  This will help keep the fabric flat and smooth.  Use plenty of Mod Podge to aide you in this process.

When you get to the back, overlap one of the edges over the other.  Make sure the fabric is smooth all the way around the bottle……and then cut a straight line up the back of the container,

trimming off the excess fabric.

Then trim around the entire container, cutting off the fabric nice and close to the edge.  Now, apply a nice thick layer of Mod Podge over all of the fabric.  Be sure and seal around all of the

edges of fabric with the Mod Podge, ensuring that the fabric won’t peel off.

Lastly, cut an oval shape (or whatever shape applies to you) to fit the bottom of the bottle.  Place a layer of Mod Podge on the bottom of the bottom, place the oval shape on the bottom, then

apply another coat of the Mod Podge.  Now set it upside down on something tall and slender and that your container can fit on top of, so that it can dry without touching anything.  (That’s a

single flower vase that I’m using.)

Once it’s dry, use a box cutter/exacto knife to cut out the square-ish opening.  You’ll probably need to apply more Mod Podge around the opening and allow it to dry again.

Now, don’t worry if your edges aren’t smooth and have little pieces of fabric sticking off.  Use your box cutter/exacto knife and run the blade right along the edge of the phone holder all the

way around, to remove any stray threads or chunks of dried Mod Podge.

And that’s it.  Your phone holder is ready for use.

Love them, love them……..and LOVE THEM some more.  Thanks for voting on this project and giving me the perfect motivation to finally make some Fabric Dolls.

Would you like to make some for your own little ones?  Or the neighbors?  Or as baby gifts?  Or hey, how about one or two to sit up on your sewing room shelf?  They will surely happy up your creative space. :)

Before getting started, go and print out the Fabric Doll Pattern Pieces. (Be sure that you copy and paste each pattern image into a document.  Set your margins to zero and expand the image to cover the entire 8.5 x 11 inch document.)

Decide which pattern pieces you’ll need and cut out your fabric pieces accordingly. 

***Seam allowance for the dolls is 1/4 inch, unless otherwise noted.

***I used 100% cotton for all of the doll pattern pieces, except for the hair and shoes, which I used felt.

***Be sure to note when a pattern piece says “fold” on it.  You’ll need to line up that edge of the pattern along the “fold” of the fabric, so that once it’s cut and opened up, it’s twice as big and is symmetrical.

For one doll, you’ll need 2 head pieces, 2 body pieces, 4 arm pieces, 4 leg pieces and then possibly some hair.  After cutting them out in your desired fabric, attach any extra pieces you need. 

Here’s Connor’s Doll Pieces first:

For example, you’ll need to add extra details like this little pocket on the shirt.  I didn’t take a picture of the pocket process (sorry!) but I just cut 2 pieces of fabric in this pocket shape (including an extra 1/4 inch all the way, for a seam allowance) and then placed them together, with right sides together and then sewed along all of the sides (1/4 inch seam allowance) except for the top.  Then, I turned it right side out, ironed it flat, and folded under the top raw edge.  Lastly, I sewed it right to the main body piece, by sewing around all the edges.

I also added sleeves to each arm.  To do this, I cut a strip of fabric that was just as wide as the arm and then as long as I wanted the sleeve to be, plus an extra 1/2 inch in length.  Then, I folded under the bottom edge a 1/4 inch, then another 1/4 inch……then sewed it in place.  Then, I placed the strip right side up on one of the arms and trimmed to the top edge in a diagonal, to match the arm shape.  Then I sewed the sleeve to the arm, along both sides.  I repeated this same thing with the other 3 arms, making sure that I was placing the sleeve on the right side of each arm piece.  (The front and back piece for each arm will mirror each other.)

And then for the shoes, I used my leg pattern piece to cut out a shoe shape (mine is 2.5 inches long) and then sewed each “shoe” onto the bottom of each leg piece (on the “right side” of the fabric) with just one line of stitching along the straight top edge of each “shoe”.  I used felt for my shoes but you could used a variety of fabrics.  If you use a fabric that frays, you’ll need to fold under the top raw edge of your shoe before sewing it down.

If you decide to attach felt eyes and hair like I did, you’ll need to do this before continuing as well.  For the hair (pattern pieces available), I sewed all the way around the hair piece…..but later realized (for Chloe’s doll) that you really only need to sew around the edges of the hair that will be seen after the doll is sewn together.  So, everything except the rounded outer edge.  And for the eyes, I just cut out small felt circles and slowly sewed around both of them. (I found that using a shorter stitch length really helped while sewing around such small circles.  It will give you more control.)  You could also hand-stitch the mouth on right now (hand-sewing instructions down below) but I wanted to see the doll all put together before deciding where the mouth would go…..but you decide what works best for you.

Next, Chloe’s Doll Pieces:

To make the collar, I cut out 2 half circles for each collar piece (4 half circles total).  Then I sewed 2 half circles together with right sides together, along the curved side.  Then I turned it right side out, ironed it flat, and then placed it along the top edge of the body piece and sewed it in place.  I did the same thing with the other half circle pieces.  (Be sure that after sewing, your half circles fit along the top of the body piece with a 1/4 inch open at both sides.  You’ll need that 1/4 inch open to keep your collar free after sew your doll body together.)

To make these little ballet flats, I cut them the same way as the boy shoes above, except for the front shoe piece, I added a little scoop.

For Chloe’s hair (pattern piece available), I sewed the Hair Front and Hair Back pieces down to the head pieces first.  I used a really fuzzy felt fabric, for added texture.  But regular felt would work just fine too.

Then, I added several pieces of yarn to each side of the head by placing the yarn inward and then sewing it down, right along the outer edge of the head (a 1/4 inch from the edge of the head).  You can see where I sewed it down on the left and then what it looks like after you flop it outwards, by looking at the right side.  (I bought a really thick yarn for Chloe’s hair.)

Next, Elli’s Doll Pieces:

For her yarn hair, I cut many, many pieces of thinner yarn, all the same length.  (She wanted long braids.)  Then I sewed an even amount of yarn (the amount will vary, depending on the yarn thickness) down the center back of the head, leaving a 1/4 inch space at the top.  I also stopped sewing on the hair about 1.5 inches from the bottom of the head.  Then I sewed several piece to the upper 1/3 of the front head piece, right down the center, also stopping a 1/4 inch from the top of the head.

For these Mary Jane type shoes, I sewed some felt pieces onto the ends of each leg, just like the red shoes above.  But then, I also added a little black strip across the top of the shoe fronts, to look like a strap.

And for the detail of this doll’s “shirt” section, I cut out a white scoop shape in felt, sewed a piece of ric-rac to the back side of the outer edge of the white felt.  Then I sewed it down (hiding the under edge of the ric-rac) right to the body section of fabric.  Then, I hand sewed some buttons on, right through all the layers.

Construction of the dolls:

Once your dolls have all the details you want (or don’t want), it’s time to put everything together. 

First, place your Head Front and your Body Front piece together, with right sides together, matching up the the straight edges of both.  The straight edge of the head will be slightly shorter than the body piece……but that’s okay.  It’s supposed to be.  (It’s because both pieces are at an angle but when you sew in a 1/4 inch, it will meet up just right.)  Just center the straight edge of the head on top of the straight edge of the bodice, leaving a slight overlap at each end……and it will work out. Do the same with the Head Back and Body Back pieces.

Then, once you open them up, your pieces should look like this:

Next, place 2 of your arm pieces together (be sure that they match up correctly with the diagonal and any other fabric additions) and then sew along all of the edges, except the straight end.  You’ll need to leave that open to turn it right side out.  Repeat with the other arm and the two legs.

Be sure and leave the short straight ends open on the legs too.

Now, make a slit between the thumb and “finger” section of each arm.  Don’t cut through the thread…..but right up next to it.  (This will help when turning it right side out.  It will help the thumb and “fingers” to lay flat.)

Now, practice some patience and turn the arms and legs right side out. :)  I use the rubber eraser end of a pencil to shove the closed end down inside of itself and then wiggle it through until I can get it turned completely right side out.  You may have to work at it slowly and pull on little bits of fabric at a time to force the pencil through……but it will turn eventually.  Then, use something smaller (knitting needle, mechanical pencil tip, etc) to poke out the thumb and “finger” and feet sections. Then, stuff each arm and leg with batting (not too full and tight……but not too loose and floppy either).  I used the eraser end of a pencil again, to help shoe the batting inside each one.

Leave about a 1/2 inch free at each end, from any batting.  Then, sew each arm along the sides of the front body piece, starting about a 1/4 inch down from where the head meets the head.  And be sure that your arm diagonal is facing the correct way (reference picture below).  Do the same thing with the legs, making sure that if you have shoes that are different on the front, be sure that the fronts are facing down as you center each leg and sew them onto the bottom edge of the Doll Front.

Now, practice some patience and turn the arms and legs right side out. :)  I use the rubber eraser end of a pencil to shove the closed end down inside of itself and then wiggle it through until I can get it turned completely right side out.  You may have to work at it slowly and pull on little bits of fabric at a time to force the pencil through……but it will turn eventually.  Then, use something smaller (knitting needle, mechanical pencil tip, etc) to poke out the thumb and “finger” and feet sections. Then, stuff each arm and leg with batting (not too full and tight……but not too loose and floppy either).  I used the eraser end of a pencil again, to help shoe the batting inside each one.

Leave about a 1/2 inch free at each end, from any batting.  Then, sew each arm along the sides of the front body piece, starting about a 1/4 inch down from where the head meets the head.  And be sure that your arm diagonal is facing the correct way (reference picture below).  Do the same thing with the legs, making sure that if you have shoes that are different on the front, be sure that the fronts are facing down as you center each leg and sew them onto the bottom edge of the Doll Front.

Next, place your Doll Front piece together with your Doll Back piece, with right sides together.  Fold the arms towards the center of the body and out of the way…..but let the legs hand downward.  Pin in the front and back pieces together, matching up the head, neck seam, and body.  Then sew along the entire outer edge, stopping before reaching each leg.

Make several cuts along the curve at both sides of the neck/head.  Cut right up to the seam but not through it.

Then, turn the doll right side out and stuff full of batting.  You’ll need enough batting to really plump it out and expand all of the seams and give the doll shape.  But not so full that all the seams are pulling and almost splitting.  Then, fold the bottom open edges towards the inside, a 1/4 inch, and hand-stitch closed.  (Need help with hand-stitching?)

And that’s it.  The main doll shape is complete.

However, there’s a few more things you may want to add:

Here’s how I made the shorts.  I cut out 2 pieces of fabric (pattern piece available) and then folded the bottom straight edges towards the wrong side of the fabric, a 1/2 inch, another 1/2 inch, then sewed in place.

Then, I constructed the shorts in the same way that I sewed together these simple leggings.  Even though they’re pants, I put them together exactly the same way.  For the waistband, I serged the top edge of the fabric (zig-zagging would work too) and then turned the shorts inside out.  Then I folded the top edge over 1 inch, towards the wrong side of the shorts’ fabric.  Then, I sewed it in place, right along the bottom serged edge of fabric, leaving a 1 inch opening at the back of the shorts.  Then, I threaded some 3/4 inch elastic through the opening and sewed the ends together, just like the legging tutorial I linked to above.  (Don’t forget to sew the casing closed too.)

Then, I turned the shorts right side out, ironed them flat, and hand-sewed a button to the front……just for looks.

For the “skirt” section of the dress for Chloe’s doll, I cut a piece of fabric that was 5 x 21 inches.  I made a really simple skirt out of it so that I could slide it onto the doll and then it would blend in and look like it was a dress.  (Here’s a skirt tutorial, if you need help with putting a basic skirt together…..but you won’t be adding the tiers.)  After sewing my strip into a circle, I serged the top and bottom edges (but you could also zig-zag) and then folded the bottom edge under a 1/2 inch and sewed in place.  Then, I folded the top edge over a 1/2 inch (towards the inside of the skirt) and sewed all the way around, leaving a 1 inch opening at the back.  Then, I threaded my 1/4 inch wide elastic through the casing, sewed the elastic ends together, then sewed the casing closed.

EDITED TO ADD: I forgot to take better pictures and explain Chloe’s doll sleeves a little better.  They are gathered sleeves but what I did was, I cut a strip of fabric that was twice the measurement of the arm.  Then, I hemmed the bottom long edge and then stretched a piece of elastic (that was slightly longer than the measurement around the arm) and sewed it down to the bottom edge, using a zig-zag stitch……so that once I let go, it cinched in the fabric.  (to see close-up pictures of this technique, check out this Butterfly Sleeve Shirt tutorial)  Then, along the top raw edge of this fabric strip, I sewed a line of basting stitch and gathered it in till it was the same amount of gathering as the elastic edge along the other edge.  (Need help with gathering?)  Then, I sewed the two ends of this strip together (with right sides together), to make a tube of fabric.  I turned the tube right side out and slid it over the arm (before the arm was attached to the body), matching up the raw edge of the arm with raw edges of this sleeve.  Then, because the raw edges of the arm is on a slant, I allowed the raw edge of the sleeve to hang off the top edge of the arm but kept the bottom elastic edge straight on the arm.  I pinned the top edge of the arm down really well and then cut off some of that extra fabric, to create the same diagonal line.  Then I sewed the sleeve down along the diagonal line of the arm, so that it would stay gathered and in place.  Then, I did the same with the other arm and then pinned both arms to the body and continued on like shown above.

For Elli’s doll skirt, I made it just like these elastic band skirts…..but used ruffle fabric that didn’t need to be hemmed.  So I cut a piece of fabric that was 3.5 x 18 inches, sewed the ends together to make a circle, and then added it to a circle of 1 inch wide elastic.  However, because the elastic circle was so small, I would change that up and add the fabric to the elastic while both were still long strips and then sew into a tube afterwards.

Now, onto the yarn hair doll.  When you sew a doll together with all of this yarn, be sure to tuck the yarn out of the way while sewing the head together.  And remember how you left a 1/4 inch free at the top of each head piece?  Well, that’s because when you sew the two head pieces together at the top, the yarn won’t get in the way.  See the seam along the top of the head?  When you sew the head pieces together, the yarn should meet right up and hide the fabric below.  Mine shows a little itty bit of the white fabric below……..but remember, it’s homemade! ;)  If it really bothers you (or if your gap is extra wide right there), hand-stitch a few long pieces of yarn right over top and let them hang right with the hair.

To make the braids, separate the yarn down the center where the seam is and then pull each half into a ponytail.

I used a long piece of yarn, tied it really tightly around the ponytail into a knot, then let the ends hang down as part of the ponytail.

Then I tied the other end off and braided both ponytails.

At the end of each braid, I tied them off with another piece of yarn and then cut the ends off the same length as the end pieces from the braid.  Also, trim off the ends of each braid, to make them even and pretty.

To hold each braid in place (and it keep it from flopping around on the head), use a needle and thread and start your thread under the braid with a knot.  Then grab some fabric, wrap the thread around the braid, grab more fabric below with your needle, wrap around again, and repeat several times, keeping the thread tight.  Knot it again under the braid, hiding your thread out of view.

For Chloe’s style of doll hair, you sew the head together with the long yarn ends facing towards the face.  Then, when you turn it right side out, the hair will stick outwards.  I just tied a quick ribbon around each ponytail, then trimmed the yarn ends.

Now, for the embroidered smile.  (Like I mentioned above, you can add the smile before sewing the head pieces together but I wanted to see the doll all put together before deciding where the mouth would go…..but you decide what works best for you.)

I first drew a smile with a pencil.

Then I used some embroidery thread (the twisted kind, not the strand kind that you can separate) and knotted the end.  Then, I lifted up the hair in the back and place my needle through.  I pinched the face from the front, to make it flat enough to poke the needle through until it came through right at the one end of the pencil line smile.

I pulled the thread all the way through.  Then I held the thread out of the way over to the left, with my left hand.  With my right hand, I poked into the fabric with my needle from right to left, right along the pencil line and stitched a small chunk of fabric. (I maybe stitched like a 1/4 of a centimeter of fabric at a time…..really small.)  When coming back up with the needle, be sure that you’re coming up right next to the thread that you’re holding out of the way with your left hand.  You don’t want any gaps in your smile.  Then pull the thread all the way through.

Then, repeat over and over again, keeping the thread pulled over to the left with your left hand.

When you reach the end and take your last stitch along the pencil line…….pull the thread through just like normal.  But then (shown below in the picture on the right) poke the needle back down in right at the end of the smile, not lengthening the smile at all.  Pinch the face flat so that you can shove the needle back through to the back of the head where you started.

Then, as you pull the needle end towards the back of the head………your thread end will disappear.  But don’t pull too tight or you will create a dimple.

Now, you can knot the end of your thread, securing your thread ends under the yarn hair.  For the boy hair, I entered and exited at the back of the head, under the small flap of felt edge that I had.  You can sorta see the knots under that edge……….but who cares?  It’s homemade, remember?!! :)

For the embroidered bum, I drew my shapes that I wanted with a pencil, then hand-stitched the heart the same way as the mouth above.  Then, for the ‘M’ and the ’13′ and the ‘X’s’ for the shoes, I just used long stitches going up and down.  (The laces were an after thought…..but next time, I would hand sew the X’s on before sewing the legs together.)

And guess what?  That’s it.  WHEW!

I really love these little dolls though.  There are so many possibilities and different ways to personalize them.  I already want to make several more.  So be creative………and make them just how you want them.  And have fun!!!

And yeah, so many people make them now (no more secrets)……..but maybe there are a few of you out there who never learned. 

And you don’t even have to know how to tie a bow to make this variety.  Easy.

Anyway, to make these hair bows (without actually tying a bow), I used 3/8 inch ribbon.  (Grosgrain works best in my opinion.)  I cut 3 pieces that are 4 inches long.  I also use a double prong hair clip that I always buy at Sally Beauty Supply….and they’re about 1 3/4 inches long. 

(I found similar ones online here, in case you don’t have a Sally’s.)  Then I cut a piece of the shelf liner that is the same size as the prong section……so about 1 and a  1/4 inch by 1/3 of an

inch.  And a piece of felt that is about the same size.

To begin, grab your roll of ribbon and heat seal the end (I use a lighter).

Then hot glue about a 1/2 inch of the end of the ribbon to the very bottom of the clip with the right side of the ribbon facing out (if you have a right and wrong side).

Then add a strip of hot glue to the next section of ribbon…

…..and then fold it around the contours of the pinch part of the clip.  (Don’t worry, the clip will still pinch and the glue won’t affect the spring at all.)

Then measure how much more ribbon you’ll need by stretching it to the tip of the clip, then fold it back up the length of the prongs.  Cut the ribbon off.

Heat seal this end of the ribbon now too.

Now add a long strip of hot glue down the back side of the rest of the ribbon.  Then lay it flat across the top of the top prong, then fold it under towards the bottom of that top prong…..to

completely conceal that top prong.  Press the ribbon together to seal the glue together, and keep the ribbon in place.

Now, grab your 3 pieces of 4 inch long ribbon.  Tie a single knot in the center of one of the pieces of ribbon.   Try to make it a neat little knot and keep the two ends flat and laying in the

same direction.  Heat seal the ends of the 2 un-tied pieces.

Then grab one of the plain pieces and bend it into a circle.  Overlap the ends by about a 1/3 of an inch and then hot glue them together (image on left).  Then pinch the circle right in the center, creating half of your bow shape, and add a little dot of hot glue to the inside center to keep it

pinched together (image on right).

Do the same thing with the other piece of ribbon.  Then cross the two pieces together……not into an actual “X”, more like a squashed one.  Add a dot of glue between the two, to keep them

together.

Then place the piece of ribbon with the knot in the middle, right in the center of the squashed “X” (image on the left).  Place a dot of hot glue right under the knot, so it doesn’t move around. 

Turn the bow over and cut off the long ends just a bit and glue them down on the back side (image on the right).

Now, glue the piece of shelf liner to the piece of felt.  Press the two layers together. 

CAUTION: this can get hot.  Test it with your fingers and wait until the glue has cooled from hot to warm and then squish the 2 layers together.  Glue will most likely ooze out. 

Just peel it off your fingers and continue on!!

Trim off the excess along  each edge, making a nice clean line around all sides.

Then hot glue the felt side to the top prong.

Then glue the bow to the very top of the clip…..right to the ribbon.

Why I do the bows this way:

I make the bows in parts so that the bow looks very clean and even.  You can always tie some ribbon into a bow and then glue it onto a clip……but it’s hard to get a nice even

bow that way.  It’s totally just preference though. I don’t wrap ribbon around the bottom prong because it’s hard to slide it through hair

(like for older girls pony tails and such) if there is ribbon on the bottom.  If you leave it bare, it can slide into hair much easier.

I don’t put the shelf liner on both sides  of the prongs because of the reason mentioned above…..I want to keep the bottom prong bare.

And that’s it. 

Now make more…….you may need some for every single outfit your child (or friend/granddaughter) has.

(And while you’re at it, make doubles of every color.  They look so darn cute when their hair is long enough for pig tails.)

Enjoy.

Anyway, this little fishy purse takes a bit more time than a standard purse…….but who really cares?  Those little scales make the purse.

Each scale is sewn individually and really helped me use up my lonely scrap stash.  Hallelujah.  That pile is getting hefty.

You can pull open the fish’s mouth to see inside…..and then pull the side strings to cinch the mouth closed again.

And since this purse is for my almost 5 year old, I’m sure she’ll shove it full of her most favorite things.  All of them necessities in her world.

Such a fun purse to make…..because the results turned out so darling. (And you could really make this in so many different colors and styles.)  I may be found holed up in my craft space, making 5 or 6

more for this friend or that one.  I’m sure we could find homes for them all.  Oh wait focus, focus……I have more Christmas gifts to make.  See?  I’m a lost cause. ;)

This little fishy is stuffed full and ready to be hung from a little shoulder.  But this fish will have to wait until Christmas morning.

**The finished purse is about 8 1/4 inches wide and about 12 inches tall from top to bottom, excluding the shoulder strap.  The shoulder strap adds another 11 inches to the height.

Would you like to make your own Fishy Purse?

Supplies needed: 

(Before heading to the store, check your fabric stash.  I had everything I needed for this entire purse found by using a scrap here and a scrap there.  Perfect.)

1/2 yard of fabric in your base color: fish body, shoulder strap, and pull strings (mine is yellow)

1/3 yard of lining fabric (mine is teal/white polka dot) a variety of different scrap pieces for the 24 scales (at least a 3 inch square) 1/4 yard of fabric for scale lining fabric 1/2 yard of fusible interfacing (choose interfacing that is near the same weight [or less] as

the fabric you’re using) 2 Half Ball Cover Buttons matching thread, scissors, sewing machine, etc.

First of all, you can find the pattern pieces for the fishy purse here.

Scroll down until you see the 3 images under the “Fabric Fish Purse” title in red.  (Copy and paste each image into a document, adjust your margins to zero, expand the images to the full document size [8.5 x 11

inches], and print.)

You must cut:

Fish Body #1:  Cut 2 of main fabric and 2 of interfacing (be sure to place the pattern piece on the fold where noted, and then cut)

Fish Body #2:  Cut 2 of main fabric and 2 of interfacing (be sure to place the pattern piece on the fold where noted, and then cut)

Fish Body #3:  Cut 2 of main fabric and 2 of interfacing (be sure to place the pattern piece on the fold where noted, and then cut)

Fish Body #4:  Cut 2 of main fabric and 2 of interfacing (be sure to place the pattern piece on the fold where noted, and then cut)

Scales: Cut 24 out of your different colored fabric pieces and cut 24 in your lining color Purse Lining: Cut 2 of your lining fabric Shoulder Strap: Cut 2 pieces of your main color fabric that are 1.75 x 24 inches and 2

pieces of interfacing the same size (you may want these shorter or longer, depending on the size of the person carrying the purse)

Pull Ties:  Cut 2 pieces of your main color fabric that are 2 x 24 inches

*Seam allowance for this project is 3/8 inch, unless otherwise noted.

Cut out all of your purse pieces, in whatever fabric and color choices you want.  I used 100% cotton for my entire purse.

(You don’t want to use a stretchy fabric, or the purse won’t hold its shape very well.)

If you want to make your purse all one color or in all different colors like I did, it’s up to you.

Here are all my main pieces below (minus the shoulder strap, pull  strings, and interfacing pieces).

Start by ironing the interfacing to the back of all 8 Fish Body pieces. 

Now, sew several lines along the tail fin in a contrasting thread color, giving the fin some detail.  Do the same thing to both #4 Fish Body pieces.  Now, set all fish body pieces aside.

Now sew one of your scale “outer fabric” pieces to one of your scale “lining” pieces with right sides together.  Sew along the curved side of the scale, leaving the bottom edge completely

open.  Use a 1/4 inch seam allowance while sewing each scale together.  Repeat with all 24 scales.  Then trim a little of the fabric off the curve of each scale, then turn right side out (use a

pencil if needed to poke out the curve), and iron flat.

Next, grab one of your #2, #3, and #4 fish body pieces.  Arrange the scale colors just how you want them and pin 5 scales along the upper edge of the #2 piece.  (The upper edge is slightly

longer than the bottom edge.)  Be sure to leave 3/4 of an inch of open space at each end of the #2 piece.  You will have to overlap each scale piece by just a bit to get all 5 pieces to fit along the

upper edge and still have 3/4 of an inch at each end.  Now, pin four scale pieces along the upper edge of the #3 piece, centering them so that there is the same amount of space left on each side.   (The upper edge is slightly longer than the bottom edge.)  Don’t overlap the scales in this row.  Now, pin three scale pieces along the upper edge of the #4 piece, centering them so that there is the same amount of space left on each side.  Don’t overlap the scales in this row either.  Then sew right along the upper edge of each fish body piece, sewing the scales in place.  (Use a 1/4

inch seam allowance.)

Now, sew each of your fish body pieces together by first placing the lower edge of the #1 piece together with the top of the #2 piece, with right sides together.  Now, you will need to use a 3/8 inch seam allowance from here on out.  Then place the bottom of the #2 piece together with

the top of the #3 place and then sew together with right sides together.  Then place the bottom of the #3 piece together with the top of the #4 piece and then sew together with right sides together.  Now, you can zig-zag or serge each seam that you just sewed.    Now, open up and iron the fish flat, with all the scales pointing downward towards the fin.  (Trim off any side edges that may

just be slightly off.  But if it’s too off, you’ll have to unpick it, re-align it, then sew again.)

Here’s a view from the back.  There’s my serged seams too.

Now, repeat with your other fish pieces and scales so that you have 2 identical fish pieces.

Now, place your two fish pieces together with the right sides together and sew together along the sides and bottom, using a 3/8 seam allowance.  Then place your two purse lining pieces together

with the right sides together and sew together along the sides and bottom, using a 3/8 seam allowance.  Then trim off the corners of both tail fin corners and then cut a little slit where the fin meets the body, on both sides.  Cut into the fabric right up to the seam, but don’t cut through the seam.  This slit will help the fin turn right side out properly.  (More info on clipping corners and

curves here.)

Next, turn the fish right side out, poke the out the fish fin, and iron the whole fish flat.

Now, turn the fish to one of the side seams and place a pin on that side seam that is 3/4 of an inch from the top and then another pin that is 3/4 of an inch below that.  Make a narrow zig-zag stitch (also with a short stitch length) right where those pins were, making each about 3/8 of an

inch long.  Then un-pick the side seam stitches between the two zig-zag sections, making an enclosed opening.  Do the same thing to the other side seam of the fish.

Next, grab your two pull string pieces and sew each one in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew along the long edge using a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  Do the same to both pieces. 

Now turn each one right side out and press flat, with the seam along one side.  (Need help turning a tube right side out?  Click here.)  Set these aside.

Now, iron your 2 interfacing pieces to the wrong side of both of your Shoulder Strap pieces.  Next, place your two shoulder strap pieces together (with right sides together) and sew them

together along both long sides.  Turn right side out and iron flat, with both seams along both side edges of the shoulder strap.  Now make a top stitch seam along both sides of the shoulder strap,

about an 1/8 of an inch from the edge.

Now, grab one end of your shoulder strap and pin it to the upper edge of the fish, about a 1/4 inch from the side seam.  Then place the other end of the shoulder strap to the opposite side of the purse, just a 1/4 inch from the side seam as well.  One end of the shoulder strap is pinned to the front of the purse and the other end is pinned to the back……but both are really close to the

side seam.  Be sure that your shoulder strap isn’t twisted.

Next, make two seams, attaching your shoulder strap to the purse.  Make the lower seam about 3/8 of an inch from the upper edge and the other one about 1/4 inch from the upper edge.  Do the

same to both strap ends.

Now, slide your outer fish into the lining while it’s inside out……so that you can have both pieces with their right sides together.  Make sure the strap is down inside and out of the way as you pin the purse lining and the fish together along the upper raw edges, matching up the side seams of both.  (If your lining is too big or too small to line up exactly, make adjustments and either take the lining in just a bit or take it out so that it matches up just right.  You don’t want bunching or cranky fabric.)  Sew all the way around the top of the purse (using a 3/8 inch seam

allowance), leaving a 4-5 inch opening along one side.

Turn the purse right side out through that opening, and tuck the lining down to the inside of the purse.  Now, iron the top of the purse, folding the opening to the inside of the purse 3/8 of an

inch.  Now top stitch along the top edge of the purse, about a 1/16 of an inch (or just really close) from the upper edge.  Then make another seam that is 3/4 of an inch below the first one, sewing

all the way around the purse, making a casing for your pull strings.  (Ultimately, you want to make the seams even with those zig-zag stitches so that your casing is as wide as the openings on

both sides…..so adjust if necessary.)

Using a safety pin, attach it to one end of one of your pull strings.  Enter through one side, making your way all the way around your casing and coming out the same opening.

Then place the safety pin on the other pull string and thread that one through the other side opening.  Make your way all the way around the casing and then back out the same opening.  You should now have both pull string threaded through the casing, but entering and exiting on

opposite sides.

Now, if you grab both sets of ends in both hands, pulling outward, your purse will cinch up at the top.

Now, select a fabric color for your eyes and cover 2 Half Ball Cover Buttons.  Attach with a needle and thread.  Place one on each side…….making them directly opposite each other so that

when cinched up, the eyes meet up.

Now, pull the opening of the purse all the way open and then place a knot at each ends of the pull strings.  Then cut off the excess ends on both sides.

And that’s it. 

Your purse is ready to go.

Dress up a $5 gift card, or a $50 one……..either will look fabulous in their new little cozy.

And keep in mind that you can really dress these up and make them frilly……or keep

them more simple and masculine.  Men like gift cards too!

Ready to make your own?I used cotton for 2 of the gift cozies and wool suiting for the 3rd one…….but many types of

fabric would work.  Start digging through that scrap pile.And many sizes will work for these cozies, but here’s the dimensions that I used.

2 backing pieces of fabric that are 3 1/4 x 4 3/4 inches.  2 pieces of fusible interfacing that are 3 1/4 x 4 3/4 inches.

2 front pieces of fabric that are 3 1/4 x 3 3/4 inches.

First, iron the fusible web to the wrong side of the backing pieces.

Then place the two backing pieces together, with right sides together and stitch all the way around……..leaving about a 2 inch gap along one of the shorter ends.  Use a 1/4 inch seam

allowance and then clip each of the 4 corners.

Then turn right side out and press flat, making sure to tuck in the raw edges of the opening a 1/4 inch.

Do the same thing to the 2 front pieces, skipping the interfacing part.

Now is your time to embellish the front of the cozy a bit.  Add a ruffle, a flower, a panel of fabric, etc…….really making the front of the cozy look fantastic.

Attach your embellishment to the front of the front piece.  Keep the opening on the one end of the front piece, towards the bottom.

Then place the front piece right on top of the backing piece and be sure both are facing up.  Line up the bottom corners and make sure that both openings are along the bottom.

Then stitch all the way around the perimeter of the rectangle shape, attaching the front piece to the backing.  Use a 1/8 seam allowance and be sure to seal off the openings at the bottom.

And that’s it.  A great little cozy for your gift card.  

Now go make several more and keep them stocked up for your next ‘simple gift’.

I want it to last a while.

You’ll Need:

1 bath towel 1 hand towel (not wash cloth)

thread, scissors, sewing machine, etc.

First, we’re going to make the pleat in the back. This pleat is totally optional but just gives the towel

some shape and makes it easier to wrap around little bodies.

Fold your towel in half lengthwise and mark with a pin. Then measure out 4 inches on either side of the pin and mark with more pins.

Then fold the towel where the pin on the right is and fold it towards the center pin.

Do the same with the left pin. Secure the 2 folds in place with more pins.

Stitch pleat in place, about 1/4 inch from the edge.

Then, fold your hand towel in half lengthwise. You’re going to be using the finished edges of the hand towel as the front finished edge of the hood, so don’t cut it off in this next step.

Measure 10×10 inches, and cut out your 2 squares from the hand towel.

Then, cut a curve into the top left corner. It doesn’t have to be perfect and there is no real guideline, just curve it.

Then make sure these 2 pieces are right sides together and sew around the curved side with a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Then zig-zag right next to it, to secure this seam in place. Trim off the

excess material.

Onto the little bear ears.

Then, from your scraps, cut out 2 pieces that are 3.5 x 5 inches. Sew in half lengthwise. Then turn right side out and place the seam up. Press flat with your hand.

Then fold the tube in half, with the seam always laying face up.

Over lap the ends a little bit and match up the raw edges.

Sew into place.

Fold the ends under about 1/4 inch and pin onto the hood, about 1.5 inches away from the center seam.

Then sew into place onto the towel.

Then can you see how the little ears have holes through them?

Just stitch that opening closed using the whip stitch from this tutorial.

Then, lay the main section of your towel down, with the pleat face up. Lay the bottom of the hood against the main section of the towel, with right sides together. Make sure the center of the

pleat is lined up with the center seam of the hood.

Pin into place.

Then sew along these two edges, about a 1/4 inch from the edge. Then sew another seam, about 1/8 inch from the edge.

Here’s a look at that pleat in the back.

Now go and bathe your baby and cuddle him/her in their new snuggly bear towel. Okay, maybe it looks like cat ears too. (To keep it more rounded……….hand-stitch the back of the ear all bunched together instead of in a straight line.) Whatever you want it to be……..just

name it

(I bought the liquid starch at Wal-Mart over by the laundry detergent.)

Mixed the food coloring in with the glue…

Then started adding the liquid starch a little at a time.

Make sure to just add a bit of the starch add a time.  Soon you’ll have to knead the Gak to incorporate more of the starch.  Just keep at it……it’ll work.  (and I didn’t even use all of the

starch it called for…..so just see how it goes.)

Then let those little chubby hands test it out.

And figure it all out. 

And play and giggle their little hearts out.