lesson guide princess kimono blouse draping: intermediate€¦ · lesson guide princess kimono...

Lesson Guide Princess Kimono Blouse Draping: Intermediate

Module 1 – Lesson Prep – Prepare Dress Form & Extract Measurements

Step 1A Begin the drape by applying style tape from apex to apex.

Step 1B Tape the desired hemline, which for this silhouette will be 4” below the waistline. Make sure that your style tape is parallel to the floor.

Step 2A Establish the princess style points by measuring down 3/4” from the plate screw and then apply style tape. Be sure that your front and back measurements are the same when measured from the side seam.

Step 2B Use your flex curve to check.

Step 3A Style tape your princess styleline on the front, using your form’s princess line as the your guide.

Step 3B Style tape your princess styleline on the back.

Step 4 For the center front and back block length take the measurement from the back neck to the hem plus 6”. The block’s width for a 3/4” sleeve will be 28” wide.

Step 5A For the length of both front and back side panel block measure from the top of the princess style tape to the hem plus 4”.

Step 5B For the side back width measure under the armplate from princess seam to the side seam plus 8”. Record these measurements.

Module 2 – Prepare Muslin Blocks & Mark Guidelines

Step 1A Referring to your recorded measurements, measure all of your muslin pieces.

Step 1B Tear all of your muslin pieces.

Step 1C Block all of your muslin pieces.

Step 1D Press all of your muslin pieces.

Step 2A On the front block measure in 1 1/4” from the right side edge and drag a guideline down, this represents center front.

Step 2B Measure over 3/4” from the edge and drag a guideline down, this represents the buttonhole extension.

Step 3 At center front, measure down 4” from upper edge and cross mark, this is the front neckline.

Step 4A On the back, measure in 1” from the left side edge and drag a guideline down this represents center back.

Step 4B At center back, measure down 3” from upper edge and cross mark, this is the back neckline.

Step 5 For the front & back princess muslin blocks, drag a guideline down the center of each block this represents the straight grainline.

Step 6A Create a front facing piece measuring 25” long by 10” wide.

Step 6B Mark a center front guideline at 1 1/4 ” away from the edge

Step 6C Mark another guideline at 3/4” in from the edge, same as you did on the front block.

Step 7A For the convertible collar, block a piece of muslin 12” wide by 6” long. Place a guide-line 1” in from the left side representing center back

Step 7B Place another guideline 1” up from the lower edge, representing the neckline.

Module 3 – Draping & Marking the Front & Back Princess Side Panels

Step 1A Align the side front muslin block guideline onto the center of the side panel of the dress form. Place a pin at the top of the princessline and another at the waistline.

Step 1B Place a pin at the waist/styline intersection.

Step 1C Pin the side seam/waist intersection.

Step 1D Pin at the side seam/hem intersection.

Step 2A Secure the armhole/side seam intersection with 2 pins for stability.

Step 2B Pin along the princessline style line to the waistline, adding and trapping ease at the apex area as you go.

Step 2C Place another pin at the hem.

Step 3A Begin marking the front panel by placing a crossmark at the armhole/princess inter-section.

Step 3B Mark along one side of the styletape to the waist, placing a crossmark at the apex,

Step 3C Crossmark the waistline.

Step 3D Crossmark the hem.

Step 3E Continue dotting the hem.

Step 3F Place a crossmark at the side seam.

Step 3G Mark the side seam/waist intersection.

Step 3H Mark the underarm/side seam intersection.

Step 4 Place 2 dash marks at 1 1/2” above and below the apex at the princess styleline. These represent your ease notches.

Step 5 Check to be sure that you captured all of the markings then remove the drape from the dress form.

Step 6A Begin draping your side back panel by aligning the muslin block guideline onto the center of the side back panel of the dress form.

Step 6B To keep the muslin out of your way while draping, place temporary holding pins on front and back.

Step 6C Pin the guideline at the underarm and at the waistline.

Step 6D Pin at the side seam and at the princess waistline adding a pinch of ease.

Step 6E Place pins at the hem at the princess styleline,

Step 6F Pin at the side seam.

Step 6G Pin at the armhole/side seam intersection.

Step 6H To hold the back panel better, place 2 pins at the armhole/princessline intersection and continue to pin along the princess styleline to the waist.

Step 6I Then place a pin at the hem.

Step 7A Begin marking the side back panel with a crossmark at the side seam/hem intersec-tion

Step 7B Mark at the waistline.

Step 7C Continue marking the underarm/side seam intersection

Step 7D Mark the princessline/side seam intersection.

Step 7E Mark along the princess styleline to the waistline.

Step 7F Place a crossmark at the waistline

Step 7G Place a crossmark at the hem.

Step 7H Place dot marks along the hemline.

Step 8A Place 2 dash marks about 1” below the curved part of the back styleline, these are your back notches.

Step 8B Once you have checked that all your markings were captured, remove the back drape from the dress form.

Module 4 – Trueing the Front & Back Princess Side Panel

Step 1 Begin trueing the side seam of the side front panel using your straight ruler. Connect from underarm to the waistline.

Step 2A Measure down 1” from the armplate crossmark, this represents the new lowered armhole.

Step 2B At the lowered armhole measure 1/2” extension for ease and reconnect the new side seam to the waistline.

Step 3 Using your French curve, draw in the armhole connecting the rossmarks at the prin-cess stylepoint to the lowered extended armhole.

Step 4 With your French curve, draw in the princess seamline by connecting all the dots & marks from the princess stylepoint to the waistline.

Step 5A To create moderate flares, measure out 2” at the princess/hem intersection and then connect a straight line from the waistline to the hem.

Step 5B Repeat this process for the side seam, coming out 2” and connecting the waistline to the flare at the hem.

Step 6A Add 1/2” seam allowance along the princess seam and around the armhole.

Step 6B Add 1” seam allowance to the side seam.

Step 7 Measure the lowered extended front armhole from stylepoint to side seam and record that measurement.

Step 8 Trim away the excess seam allowance.

Step 9 Trueing the side back panel is the process as the front. Begin by trueing the side seam connecting the underarm to the waist.

Step 10A Measure down 1” from the armhole crossmark, for the new lowered armhole.

Step 10B At the lowered armhole measure out 1/2” for the ease extension and reconnect the new side seam to the waistline.

Step 11 Using your French curve, draw in the armhole connecting the rossmarks at the prin-cess stylepoint to the lowered extended armhole.

Step 12 With your hip curve, draw in the princess seamline by connecting all the dots & marks from the princess stylepoint to the waistline.

Step 13A Create the back flares by measuring out 2” at the princess/hem intersection and then connect a straight line from the waistline to the hem.

Step 13B Do the same for the side seam, coming out 2” at the hem and connecting the waistline to the flare at the hem.

Step 14A Add 1” seam allowance to the side seam

Step 14B Add 1/2 ” seam allowance along the princess seam and around the armhole.

Step 14C Go back and true your seam intersections.

Step 14D Measure your back armhole making sure that it measures the same as the front.

Step 15 Trim away the excess seam allowance at the side seam, the armhole and the prin-cessline.

Step 16A Clip into the 1” seam allowance at the waist on the side back panel to release the flare.

Step 16B Pin the front & back princess panels together at the side seam, back over front. Be sure you connect the lowered extended lines and not the original tight body lines.

Step 17A Pin the side panels back onto dress form the way you draped it, burying your pins into the form along the front & back princess seam allowance so that you will be able to drape your front and back center panels over your side panels.

Step 17B Carefully trap your bust ease between the pins on the front princessline and pin up to the waistline only.

Module 5 – Draping the Center Front Panel

Step 1A Begin draping the center front panel by lining up your muslin block’s neckline mark-ing to the neckline of the dress form.

Step 1B Place a temporary holding pin on the muslin to keep the muslin out of your way while you drape the front. Pin along the center front grainline beginning at neckline and then at midchest.

Step 1C Be sure to add bust ease before continuing to pin under the bust level.

Step 1D Place a pin at the waist, the hemline and at the apex.

Step 2 To release the neckline, cut a rectangle piece above centerfront then slash into the neckline, trimming the excess muslin as you go. Be careful not to slash more than a 1/4” from the neckline seam on the dress form.

Step 3 Place pins at the neckline/shoulder intersection, at the center of the shoulder and at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

Step 4A Smooth the muslin over the chest area and start pinning beginning at the princess/armhole intersection.

Step 4B Looking through the muslin, pin along the lines that you created on the side front panel. You will also be able to feel the pins underneath.

Step 4C Carefully smooth the muslin in the apex area trapping the ease with you pins. Place a pin at the waistline and another at the hemline.

Module 6 – Marking the Center Front Panel

Step 1A Mark your front muslin in a counterclockwise direction. Begin by dotting your neck-line.

Step 1B Crossmark your shoulder/neckline intersection.

Step 1C Place a dot midpoint between the neck and the shoulder.

Step 1D Crossmark at the shoulder/armhole intersection.

Step 1E Crossmark the princess/armhole intersection.

Step 2A Feeling for your pins or looking through the muslin, continue to dot the princessline to the waistline.

Step 2B Place a crossmark at the apex

Step 2C Crossmark the waistline/princess intersection

Step 2D Crossmark the centerfront/hem intersection.

Step 2E Make a dash mark at the centerfront/waistline intersection.

Step 3 Transfer the princess ease notches from the side panel onto the front panel.

Step 4 Remove the front panel from the dress form after checking that you have captured all of the necessary markings

Module 7 – Trueing the Center Front Panel

Step 1A Start trueing by connecting the dots on the neckline with your French curve.

Step 1B Make sure that your neckline marking is a right angle to centerfront.

Step 2 Using a straight ruler, draw in the shoulder seam from the shoulder/neck intersection to shoulder/armhole intersection.

Step 3A With a combination of a French curve and a hip curve, draw in the princess seam-line, connecting all of the dots and marks beginning at the princess/armhole intersection to the waistline/princess intersection.

Step 3B Smooth out any odd shaped lines.

Step 4A Create the front flare by measuring over 2” from the princess/hem marking.

Step 4B Connect a straight line from the waistline to that flare mark.

Module 8 – Draping the Center Back Panel

Step 1A Finger press the center back seam allowance.

Step 1B Line up your center back panel matching the neckline of the muslin block to the center back/neckline intersection of the dress form. Secure it with a pin.

Step 1C Place a temporary holding pin to hold the muslin while you secure pins along center back, at the waist and at the hipline.

Step 2A Smooth the muslin across the shoulder blade area to the armhole ridge. Make sure that you keep the muslin grain parallel to the floor.

Step 2B Secure pins at the shoulderline and at the armhole ridge.

Step 2C Place pins at the princess stylepoint and along the princessline.

Step 2D Pin at the waistline and at the hemline.

Module 9 – Marking the Center Back Panel

Step 1A Begin marking your center back panel by dotting the back neckline.

Step 1B Place a crossmark at the shoulder/neckline intersection then dot the midpoint of the shoulder line.

Step 1C Crossmark the shoulder/armhole intersection and the princess stylepoint/armhole intersection.

Step 1D Continue to dot along the princessline.

Step 1E Place a crossmark at the waistline.

Step 1F Place a crossmark at the hemline.

Step 2A Place a dash mark at the center back/hemline intersection.

Step 2B Place a dash at the waistline.

Step 3 Transfer the 2 princessline dash marks which represent your back notches.

Step 4 Check to make sure that you have captured all of your markings before removing the drape from the dress form.

Module 10 – Trueing the Center Back Panel

Step 1A Use your styling curve to connect the neckline dots from center back to the shoul-der/neckline intersection.

Step 1B Make sure that center back is a right angle.

Step 2 Using your clear plastic ruler, draw in the shoulder seam from the neck/shoulder inter-section to the shoulder/armhole intersection.

Step 3 Using a combination of your French curve and hip curve, draw in the princess seam by connecting all of the dots and marks from the princess stylepoint to the waistline.

Step 4A To create a flare on the back panel, measure out 2” from princess/hipline intersec-tion and place a mark.

Step 4B Connect the waistline to that point to create the new princess seamline.

Module 11 – Drafting the Princess Kimono Sleeve

Step 1 For the sleeve portion of this blouse you will need your straight sleeve sloper and your side panel underarm measurement. With the folded edge of the sleeve facing you, measure your armhole beginning at the underarm and place a mark when you reach your side panel underarm measurement. This represents the princess stylepoint.

Step 2 Square a line 4 “ down from the elbow line, this represents the 3/4 length sleeve.

Step 3 With your center front panel facing up, lay the front and back pieces on top of each other, wrong side to wrong side.

Step 4 Before you flip the pieces over so that the back faces up, transfer your princess styl-epoint and the shoulder/armhole intersection on the wrong side of the center front panel.

Step 5A Pin the front and back muslin panels together beginning at the shoulder/armhole intersection, at the shoulder midpoint and at the shoulder/neckline intersection.

Step 5B Continually turn the muslin to the front side to check that your pinning is accurate.

Step 5C Pin the front & back muslin panels together matching the princess stylepoints.

Step 6 There will be fullness on the back panel between the shoulder and the princess styl-epoint, this is necessary since it accommodates the fullness of the back.

Step 7A Check that your front and back muslin panels are equi-distant from the edge so that your grainlines are matching. Match along center back, at the shoulder and at the hem.

Step 7B Once your grainlines are matching, pin the panels together lengthwise along center back, trapping the back ease as you pin.

Step 7C Then pin the muslin together along the width edge above the shoulder and along the hem edge.

Step 8 Once you have pinned three sides of the block then trap your shoulder fullness at a 45 degree angle and then pin the remaining edge.

Step 9A Place your ruler in line with the shoulder seam intersection and the raw edge of the muslin. Draw a 2” x 2 “ square.

Step 9B Connect a diagonal line that extends beyond the square to the end of the muslin, using your yardstick.

Step 10A With your back ease trapped in line with the diagonal line, position your sleeve on the muslin in 2 places, matching the sleeve’s underarm stylepoint to the stylepoint of the muslin, so that it is parallel to the bias guideline.

Step 10B Make sure that your back ease is positioned in the center of the sleeve and then trap your ease with pins to the end of your sleeve’s length.

Step 11A Align and pin the stylepoint of the sleeve to the stylepoint of the muslin.

Step 11B Pivot the sleeve so that the folded edge of the sleeve is in line with the diagonal line on the muslin.

Step 11C Use your ruler to check.

Step 12A Once the sleeve is even, place crossmarks at the bicepline, the elbowline and at the hemline.

Step 12B You will also mark the sleeve underseam at the hemline and at the elbowline.

Step 13A Measure up from the underarm 1/2” and place a mark.

Step 13B Pivot your sleeve from the princess stylepoint until you touch the 1/2” mark. This allows more movement for the sleeve.

Step 13C Trace off the armhole from princess stylepoint to the underarm.

Step 13D Crossmark the armhole/sleeve underseam intersection. Then remove the sleeve sloper.

Step 14A Raise the shoulder 1/4” and the bicep 1/2”.

Step 14B Blend a line to the neckline.

Step 14C Blend another line to the sleeve hemline using both your styling curve and hip curve.

Step 14D True the underseam of the sleeve from the underarm to the hemline.

Step 15A Using tracing paper, transfer the following marks onto the front muslin block: the sleeve hem intersection, the overarm seam, the underseam/hem intersection, the underseam of the sleeve and the armhole, stopping at the princess stylepoint.

Step 15B Trace all of the notches as well.

Step 16A True the sleeve hem with your ruler, add 1 1/2” hem allowance.

Step 16B Trace the hem markings onto the front. Check to be sure that all of the markings transferred.

Step 16C Trim away some of the excess muslin below the sleeve hem.

Step 17A Next, turn the sleeve hem under to true the sleeve underseam and overseam.

Step 17B Pin it in place then trace the sleeve hem seamlines to the other side.

Step 18A Add 1” seam allowance to the overarm.

Step 18B Add 1/2” to the underarm and armhole, ending at the princess stylepoint.

Step 18C Go back and reconnect your underarm intersection.

Step 19A Trim the excess muslin at the underarm and at the armhole, ending at the princess stylepoint.

Step 19B Trim away the excess muslin on the sleeve overarm.

Step 20 Remove the pins and separate the back from the front.

Module 12 – Final Trueing

Step 1A With the center front panel facing up, lower the neckline 1/2” to accommodate the collar.

Step 1B Retrue the neckline with your French curve.

Step 1C With your pencil, drag a grainline across the neckline at centerfront to the muslin’s edge.

Step 1D Add 1/2” seam allowance to the neckline and reconnect your shoulder/neck inter-section.

Step 2A Add 1/2” seam allowance from the hem to the waistline and from the waistline to the princess stylepoint.

Step 2B Trim away the excess muslin at the neckline and at the princess line.

Module 1

Step 3A Add 1/2” seam allowance to the back neckline.

Module 1

Step 3B Drag a grainline across at center back into the 1” allowance.

Step 4A Add 1/2” seam allowance to the princess seam ending at the princess stylepoint.

Step 4B Trim away the excess muslin at the neckline and at the princess line.

Step 5A Mark your stitching line onto the hem facing on the front hem.

Step 5B Clip into the 1” seam allowance on both the front and back sleeve to release the hem.

Step 6A Pin the overseam together, back over front from the elbowline to the edge of the muslin.

Step 6B Using your styling curve, redraw you hemline with a red pencil.

Step 6C Trim the excess muslin.

Step 7A Clip into the seam allowance at the waistline on your princess side panels and on your center front and back panels to release the waist.

Step 7B Pin your front panel over your side panel beginning at the waist to the hem.

Step 8A Clip the waist of the center back panel.

Step 8B Bend back the seam allowance and pin the center back panel over the side back panel from the waist to the hem.

Step 9A Measure the length of the flare on centerfront from the waist to the hem.

Step 9B Transfer that measurement and place a mark on the front princess seam, the side seam and the back princess seam.

Step 10A Shape the hem using a combination of your styling curve and straight ruler.

Step 10B Add 1/2” seam allowance and trim the excess muslin.

Step 11A Clip into the front princess seam allowance at the notches and around the curve of the princess stylepoint.

Step 11B Pin the center front panel over the side front panel by first lining up the lower notch.

Step 11C Continue to pin the princess seam stopping at the princess stylepoint. Do the same for the back.

Step 12A Once your front and back princess seams are pinned together, position your drape flat on the table so that you can pin the sleeve’s underseam.

Step 12B Pin back over front beginning at the underarm. Match up the notch at the elbow line next, as the underarm seam is bias and has a tendency to stretch if you are not careful.

Step 12C Continue to pin until the entire seam is pinned.

Step 13A Next, you will connect the underarm seam. You will do this with using the pin bast-ing method, as if you were actually sewing it. Match up the sleeve’s underarm seam to the side seam of the side panels on the stitching line. Secure it with a pin.

Step 13B Then match up the front princess stylepoint and continue to pin until you reach the side seam. Repeat this process on the side back panel.

Step 14A Pin the shoulder/overarm seam, back over front matching the notches as you pin. Use your ruler and a sleeve board to help pin the overseam making sure not to stretch the muslin as the overseam becomes bias from the shoulder to the hem.

Step 14B Pin up your sleeve hem.

Step 15 Pin your drape back on the dress form the way you draped it, matching up the key points and securing it with pins on center front and center back.

Module 13 – Convertible Collar

Step 1A The first step when draping a convertible collar is to measure your neckline. Mea-sure from center front to the shoulder plus 1/8” ease. Record this measurement.

Step 1B Measure from the shoulder to center back plus 1/8”. Record this measurement.

Step 2A On your collar muslin block, measure in from center back, your shoulder seam to center back measurement including the 1/8” ease, and place a mark on the 1” neckline guideline. This represents your shoulder seam.

Step 2B From that point, measure your shoulder to centerfront plus 1/8” and place another mark. This is the center front of the collar.

Step 2C Measure up 1/2” at the center and place a mark.

Step 3A Using your French curve, draw a curve that connects the 1/2” front mark to the shoulder mark, this is your new neckline.

Step 3B Add 1/2” seam allowance to the new neckline.

Step 3C Trim away the excess muslin and slash into the neckline seam allowance.

Step 3D Fold back and fingerpress the 1” center back allowance.

Step 4A Begin draping the convertible collar by pinning the collar to the neckline at center back.

Step 4B Match the shoulder crossmark

Step 4C Continue to pin along the neckline to centerfront. Match the neckline of the collar to the neckline of your drape

Step 5A Next you will plan your collar stand. Place a pin at the desired collar stand height at center back. For this lesson the stand is 1 1/2” high.

Step 5B Fold the collar over at center back and then place a pin at 1/2” below the back neck-line so that your collar will cover the neckline seam.

Step 5C Slash into the outer edge of the muslin to release the fabric over the shoulder area so that the collar can form but don’t slash higher than that 1/2” pin marking.

Step 5D Continue to shape the collar as you slash until you reach the front.

Step 6A Use style tape to form the outer edge of your collar. Begin at the 1/2” pin at cen-ter back and continue around to the center front mark making sure that your tape forms a smooth line across the shoulder area.

Step 6B You will angle the tape as you reach the front so that you can create a pointed collar that terminates at the center of the drape.

Step 7A Mark the collar’s edge beginning at centerfront. Continue to dot the edge until you reach the center back.

Step 7B Trim the excess style tape and remove the collar drape from the dress form.

Step 8A Place your collar on the table with your tracing paper underneath, face up. Trace off the neckline, the shoulder notch and your center back.

Step 8B Flip the collar over, remove the tracing paper and the style tape and trace the outer edge of the collar. Make sure that the centerback is a right angle otherwise your collar will hike up in the back.

Step 8C Continue to true the edge with your French curve, connecting the dots as you shape the neckline.

Step 8D With your straight ruler finish the trueing.

Step 8E Add 1/4” seam allowance to the collar’s edge.

Step 8F Place the collar back on the tracing paper and transfer the outer edge markings of the collar.

Step 8G Trim away the excess.

Step 9A Your undercollar will be cut on the bias so that your collar will have a better roll line. Begin by preparing muslin block measuring 13” on the length grain and 11” on the cross grain.

Step 9B Place a bias line by coming in 5” from the left corner on both sides.

Step 9C Line up the center back of your upper collar to the bias guideline and pin them to-gether.

Step 9D Trace off all seam lines and your shoulder crossmark.

Step 9E Trim the excess muslin only at the neckline and the center back. Then, separate the pieces.

Step 9F The under collar is 1/8” smaller on the outer edge to nothing at the center front. Place your ruler at center front and come in 1/8” at the collar point. Connect a line.

Step 9G Then come in 1/8” around the collar’s edge to the center back. Reducing the size of the under collar will prevent the under collar from rolling out and showing on the front.

Step 9H Add 1/4” seam allowance to this new collar edge.

Step 9I Trim the excess seam allowance.

Step 10A Clip into the neckline seam allowance of the body beginning at center front.

Step 10B Pinbaste the collar into neckline, matching the shoulder notch and center front, distributing the ease as you pin.

Module 14 – Button and Buttonhole Placement

Step 1A For planning button and buttonhole placement begin by pinning the garment on your dress form and locate the desired breakpoint of your collar and lapel.

Step 1B Plan your buttonholes by considering the first button, the breakpoint, the apex and the waistline. Make sure that your buttons are evenly spaced. You may go 1/2” above or be-low apex if necessary but for a fitted garment you must have at button at the waistline.

Step 1C Place pins to mark the placement of each button.

Step 2A With the garment flat on the table, mark the button placement and remove the pins.

Step 2B With your ruler, measure over 1/8” into the button extension, then measure back the width of the button measurement plus the 1/8” ease. Your buttonhole markings must be at a right angle to centerfront.

Step 2C Place end marks on both sides of your buttonhole markings.

Step 3 Transfer the center of the buttons onto your left side block and crossmark.

Module 15 – Planning a Front Facing

Step 1A To create a front facing begin by placing your muslin block facing piece under the garment front, matching the center line of the facing to that of the garment.

Step 1B Measure 2” away from center front at the hemline and crossmark.

Step 1C Next, mark 2” away from the seamline of the shoulder/neck intersection and place another crossmark.

Step 1D Using your straight ruler and hip curve, shape the front facing connecting the shoul-der and hem crossmarks.

Step 2A Trace all stitching line markings at hemline, the shoulderline, the neckline and the facing’s edge. Separate the pieces.

Step 2B Add 1/4” seam allowance to the edge of the facing and 1/2” to the shoulder.

Step 2C Trim remaining excess muslin.

Step 2D Finished Princess Kimono Blouse.

lesson guide princess kimono blouse draping: intermediate€¦ · lesson guide princess kimono...

Documents

make an origami kimono from beautiful dyed...

advanced draping

presentation japanese kimono

blossom kimono charts

shampooing & cond. draping

draping theory

etsy vintage kimono lookbook

designing by draping 1936

draping for fashion design

positioning & draping

make an origami kimono from beautiful dyed...

2010 p2 kimono

fashion design & technology...from draping technique: basic...

advance draping

kimono instructions.pdf

kimono baby shoes -...

surgical draping

dress design draping

draping patient

integrating draping