mens apparel ii 2010
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SEMESTER VI CORE PRACTICAL XII
MENS APPAREL PRACTICAL II
Designing, drafting and constructing the following garments for the features prescribed
List the Measurements required and Materials suitable
Calculate the cost of the garment
Calculate the material required lay out method and direct measurement method
1. Pleated trousers pleats in front, darts at back, side pocket, fly with button /zip.
2. Bell bottom trousers pleat less, bellbottom, side pocket, fly with button/ zip
3. Boxer shorts
4. Bermudas
5. Jeans tight fitting, jeans, cut, with pockets
6. Pyjama elastic/tape attached waist, with fly
7. S.B.Coat coat collar, coat sleeve, pocket
Reference:
Scientific Garment quality K.M.Illege and sons Plot No.43, Somuvar Peth, Pune
411 011.
Easy cutting Juvekar, Commercial Tailors Coporation Pvt. Limited , 166,
Dr.Ambedkar Road, Dadar.
Commercial system of cutting, - Juvekar, Commercial Tailors Coporation Pvt.Limited , 166, Dr.Ambedkar Road, Dadar.
Zarapker System of cutting, - K.R. Zarapker, Naveent Publications Limited,
Dress making smt. Thangam Subramaniam, Bombay tailoring and embroidery
college, 32 North park street, Ambattur, Chennai.
Practical clothing construction part and II Mary Mathews, Cosmic Press, Chennai.
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Pleated trouser
Introduction:
Pants (trousers) are prepared in many styles and fashions, but the cutting
principles are the same. Pants are also called as slacks. Pleated pants are generally
prepared with four pleats (two on each side) and two darts (one on each side at the back).
The front pleat is always kept wider than the side one. It is prepared with waist band,
with an arrangement of loops. The bottoms are either plain or with permanent turn-ups.
Side pockets are either vertical or slanting.
Features:
Pleats in front,
Darts at back,
Side pocket,
Fly with button /zip
Suitable Material:
100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, twill, polyester blend.
Measurement Required:
Full length 104cm (41")
Inside leg 73cm (29")
Waist Circumference 76cm (30")
Seat Circumference 92cm (36")
Bottom Circumference 43 cm (17")
Thigh Circumference 45cm (18")
Belt width 4cm (1")
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Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (41) + 2"
= 84"
Layout Method:
The total length of the fabric required =
Instructions for drafting:
Front:
Square lines from 0
1-0 = full length less belt width plus "
2-1 = inside leg + "
3-2 = half inside leg - 2"
Square lines from all these points
4-2 = seat + 1"
5-0 = same as 4 to 2
Join 4-5
6-4 = one-twelfth seat
7-2 = same as 6 to 4
Join 6-7
8-5 = waist + 3" for pleats and seams
Shape 8-7 as shown
9-4 = one-twelfth seat less "
10-4 = seat + "
Strike a line midway across the angle 10- 4- 9
11-4 = half of 9-4 plus "
Shape fork 10- 11- 9
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12 is midway of 9 to 2
Square down from 12 -13- 14
17-14 = bottom
18-14 = same as 17 to 14
19-9 = "
Join 19-17 and shape 9-15
16-13 = same as 15 to 13
Join 16-18 and shape 7-16
20 is squared up from 12
21-5 = "
Shape 20-21
22-20 = 1" for pleat
23 is midway of 22 to 8
Suppress 1" in the pleat at 23
24-14 and 25-24 = each 1" for turn ups
26-25 = 1"
Draw lines parallel to 17-18 from points 24,25 and 26
Mark pocket at a distance of 1" below 8
Pocket opening = one-sixth seat
Back:
27-9 = 2 to 2"
28-15 = 1"
29-17 = 1"
Shape 27-28 and join 28-29
30-10 = 1" for seat angle. This quantity should be increased for an erect figure
and reduced for a stooping figure
Join 19-30 and produce to 31-32
32-31 = 1 to 1" according to flat or prominent seat
33-27 = "
Shape fork 30-33 as shown
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34-32 = waist + 1"
Draw side seam 34- 16- 18
35-34 = one-twelfth seat + "
36 is squared down from 35 and equals 3"
Add 4 to 4" below 18-29 for turn ups
Fly:
The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows
Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the
accompanying figure.
4-1 = nearly 2"
5-2 = same as 4 to 1
6-3 = "
Shape 4- 5- 6
Waist band:
1-2 = waist + 1"
3-1 = 1" or taste
4-2 = same as 3 to 1
Join 3-4.
5-2 = "
6-4 = same as 5 to 2
Join 5-6
7-5 = same as 3 to 1
8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist
Shape 5-8 and 7-9
Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side.
If the extended belt is desired, extend the left side to 12-13 which is 3 to 5" from
1-3
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Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Waist Band 2
Fly Opening 3
Construction Details:
Finish the pleats and construct the side seam pockets on either side
Finish the fly opening by joining the left and right front pieces
Construct the darts at the back
Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side
respectively
Finish the crotch seam
Attach the waist band with loops
Finish the hem
Attach the fasteners
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 120
Thread cost = 2
Canvas cost = 5
Fasteners cost = 3
Stitching cost = 70
Total = 200
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Bell bottom trousers
Introduction:
These pants are prepared with narrow knee and flared down from knee to hem to
give the bell shaped effect that is its upper portion from waist to knee is kept like
ordinary pants, while the lower one is kept very wide. Both men and women wear this
type of pants. These pants with wide legs are very popular among youngsters. The
accompanying draft is of the plain top that is waist belt attached without taking pleats.
Features:
Pleat less,
Bell bottom,
Side pocket/hip pocket,
Fly with button /zip
Suitable Material:
100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, twill, polyester blend.
Measurement Required:
Full length 104cm (41")
Inside leg 73cm (29")
Waist Circumference 76cm (30")
Seat Circumference 92cm (36")
Knee round 48cm (19 ")
Bottom Circumference 60 cm (24")
Thigh Circumference 45cm (18")
Belt width 5cm (2 ")
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Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (41) + 2"
= 84"
Layout Method:
The total length of the fabric required =
Instructions for drafting:
Front:
Square lines from 0
1-0= full length less belt width plus "
2-1 = inside leg + "
3-2 = half inside leg - 2"
Square lines from all these points
4-2 = seat + 1"
5-0 = same as 4 to 2
Join 5-4
6-5 = "
Join 6-4
7-4 = one-twelfth seat
8-2 = same as 7 to 4
Join 7-8
9-6 = waist + "
10-4 = one-twelfth seat less " or to taste
11-4 = half of 10-4 plus "
Shape fork 6- 7- 11- 10
12 is midway of 2 to 10
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13-14 is squared down from 12
15-13 and 16-13 = each knee round (or) bottom less 1" (or) to taste
17-14 = bottom
18-14 = same as 17 to 14
Shape 9- 8- 16
Join 16-18 and 15-17
19-10 = "
Join 19-15
Shape 10-15
Back:
20-10 = one-twelfth seat less to 1"
21-15 = 1"
22-17 = 1"
Shape 20-21 and join 21-22
23-4 = one-sixth seat
Join 19-23 and produce to 24-25
25-24 = 1"
26-20 = "
Shape 25- 24- 23- 26
27-25 = waist + 1"
Join 25-27
28-23 = Seat + 1"
Shape 27-28-16 outside seam
29-27 = one-twelfth seat less "
30-29 = one-twelfth seat
take darts " wide and 3" long at 29 and 30 each
Mark pockets with 4" opening below the darts
Keep 2" to 3" below 17-18 and 22-18 for in turns
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Fly:
The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows
Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the
accompanying figure.
4-1 = nearly 2"
5-2 = same as 4 to 1
6-3 = "
Shape 4- 5- 6
Waist band:
1-2 = waist + 1"
3-1 = 1" or taste
4-2 = same as 3 to 1
Join 3-4.
5-2 = "
6-4 = same as 5 to 2
Join 5-6
7-5 = same as 3 to 1
8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist
Shape 5-8 and 7-9
Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side.
If the extended belt is desired, extend the left side to 12-13 which is 3 to 5" from
1-3
Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Waist Band 2
Fly Opening 3
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Construction Details:
Construct the side seam pockets on either side
Finish the fly opening by joining the left and right front pieces
Construct the darts at the back
Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side
respectively
Finish the crotch seam
Attach the waist band with loops
Finish the hem
Attach the fasteners
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 120
Thread cost = 2
Canvas cost = 5
Fasteners cost = 3
Stitching cost = 70
Total = 200
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Boxer shorts
Introduction:
Boxer shorts are mostly worn as a sports wear. It is designed to give more comfort
to the wearer. It is worn till knee length or a little above the knees. Boxer shorts
are finished with elastic waist band. Boxers allow for more freedom in the
selection of a fabric type and print design.
Features:
Elastic attached
Pocket
Suitable Material:
100% cotton, Polyester, cotton polyester, jersey knit, polyester blend.
Measurement Required:
Full length 16"
Waist circumference 30"Seat circumference 36"
Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (16) + 2"
= 34"
Layout Method:
The total length of the fabric required =
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Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Instructions for drafting:
Front:
Square lines from 0
1-0 = seat + 3" = 9+3 =12"
2-0 = full length + " = 16+" = 16"
3-1 = seat + 1"
4-0 = same as 3 to 1
Join 3-4
5-3 = one-twelfth seat = 3"
6-3 = one-sixth seat = 6"
7-3 = of 5-3 + "
Shape 4-6-7-5
8-2 = 5-1 less " or half of bottom
Shape inside seam 5-8
Back:
9-5 = 1 "
10-5 = "
Join 4-10
11-10 = same as 6-3
Shape fork 11-9 as shown
12-4 = "
Join 0-12
13-8 = 1 "
Shape inside seam 9-13
Keep 1 " above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing
Keep 1 " below 2-8 and 2-13 for in turns
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Construction Details:
Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side
respectively
Finish the crotch seam
Finish the waist with elastic
Finish the hem
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 30
Thread cost = 2
Elastic cost = 3
Stitching cost = 30
Total = 65
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Boxer shorts
012
4
611
7
31059
13 8
1
2
Front & Back
(Cut - 2)
Boxer shorts
straightgrain
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Bermudas
Introduction:
Bermuda shorts, also known as walking shorts or dress shorts, are a
particular type of short trousers, now widely worn as semi-casual attire by both
men and women. These Bermudas are worn as evening wear mainly used in
leisure time. It is mainly finished with elastic or cord at the waist. Usually pockets
are attached on either side of front and back.
Features:
Elastic or cord attached
Pocket
Suitable Material:
100% cotton, plain/printed, Polyester, cotton polyester, jersey knit, polyester
blend.
Measurement Required:Full length 20"
Waist circumference 30"
Seat circumference 36"
Bottom round 20"
Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (20) + 2"
= 42"
Layout Method:
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The total length of the fabric required =
Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Pocket 2
Instructions for drafting:
Front:
Square lines from 0
1-0 = seat + 3"
2-0 = full length + "
3-1 = seat + 1 "
4-0 = same as 3 to 1
Join 3-4
5-3 = one-twelfth seat
6-3 = one-sixth seat
7-3 = of 5-3 + "
Shape fork 6-7-5
8-2 = 5-1 less " or half of bottom
9-5 = " join 9-8
Shape inside seam 5-10 as shown
Back:
5-11 = 1 "
Join 4-9
12- 9 = same as 6-3
Shape fork 12-11 as shown
13-4 = "
Join 0-13
14-8 = 1 "
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Shape inside seam 9-14
Keep 1 " above 0-4 and 0-13 for casing
Keep 1 " below 2-8 and 2-14 for in turns
Construction Details:
Finish the side seams by joining the front and back part of each side
respectively
Finish the crotch seam
Finish the waist with elastic
Finish the hem
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 65
Thread cost = 2
Elastic cost = 3
Stitching cost = 30
Total = 100
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Bermudas
0
12
4
6
11
7
3
10
5 9
13
8
1
2
Front & Back
(Cut - 2)
Bermudas
straightgrain
14
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Jeans
Introduction:
Jeans (also called Levis or Cow Boy Pants) are very popular among
youngsters. They are similar to narrow pants. They are generally kept tight from
thigh to bottom, but some also prefer bell bottom. There wont be any pleats at the
front and darts at the back. The darts are concealed in the yoke which is kept at
the back. Flat fell seam is mostly used. Contrast color thread adds decoration to
the garment. It is mostly subjected to rough use, so it is also called as work cloth.
Features:
Tight fitting,
Jeans cut,
Pockets.
Suitable Material:
Denim, Corduroy, suede, etc
Measurement Required:
Full length 104cm (41")
Inside leg 73cm (29")
Waist Circumference 76cm (30")
Seat Circumference 92cm (36")
Knee round 48cm (19 ")
Bottom Circumference 43 cm (17")
Thigh Circumference 45cm (18")
Belt width 5cm (2 ")
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Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (41) + 2"
= 84"
Layout Method:
The total length of the fabric required =
Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Yoke 2
Pocket 2
Instructions for drafting:
Front:
Square lines from 0
1-0= full length less belt width plus "
2-1 = inside leg + "
3-2 = half inside leg - 2"
Square lines from all these points
4-2 = seat + 1"
5-0 = same as 4 to 2
Join 5-4
6-5 = "
Join 6-4
7-4 = one-twelfth seat
8-2 = same as 7 to 4
Join 7-8
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9-6 = waist + "
10-4 = one-twelfth seat less " or to taste
11-4 = half of 10-4 plus "
Shape fork 6- 7- 11- 10
12 is midway of 2 to 10
13-14 is squared down from 12
15-13 and 16-13 = each knee round (or) bottom less 1" (or) to taste
17-14 = bottom
18-14 = same as 17 to 14
Shape 9- 8- 16
Join 16-18 and 15-17
19-10 = "
Join 19-15
Shape 10-15
Back:
No darts are taken at waist
20-10 = one-twelfth seat less to 1"
21-15 = 1"
22-17 = 1"
Shape 20-21 and join 21-22
23-4 = one-sixth seat
Join 19-23 and produce to 24-25
25-24 = 1"
26-20 = "
Shape 25- 24- 23- 26
27-25 = waist + 1"
Join 25-27
28-23 = Seat + 1"
Shape 27-28-16 outside seam
29-27 = one-twelfth seat less "
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30-29 = one-twelfth seat
Yoke:
27 A = 1"
25 B = 3 to 3"
Join and cut on line A-B
Add about " at C and shape A- C- B
Keep about to " outside A- C- B on both the sides for seams.
Fly:
The fly to be attached at the centre front of pants should be drafted as follows
Use the front fork curve and draw the shape 1- 2- 3 as shown in the
accompanying figure.
4-1 = nearly 2"
5-2 = same as 4 to 1
6-3 = "
Shape 4- 5- 6
Waist band:
1-2 = waist + 1"
3-1 = 1" or taste
4-2 = same as 3 to 1
Join 3-4.
5-2 = "
6-4 = same as 5 to 2
Join 5-6
7-5 = same as 3 to 1
8-2 and 9-4 = one-sixth waist
Shape 5-8 and 7-9
Draw 10-11 at a distance of 1" from 1-3, the extension for the right side.
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Construction Details:
Yoke part is attached to the right and left back pieces.
Patch pockets are attached at the back
Finish the pockets at the front
Finish the fly with the zip
Join the front and back side seam
Finish the crotch seam
Finish the inside leg seam
Finish the bottom hem
Finish the waist band with loops Attach the fasteners
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 125
Thread cost = 3
Fasteners = 12
Stitching cost = 60
Total = 200
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Pyjama
Introduction:
Pyjama is a loose fitting trouser. It can be used as an indoor or outdoor
garment. It is worn with kurthas, night shirt, slack shirt or T-shirt. It is usually
prepared with a casing arrangement for inserting a cloth tape at the waist. If it is
prepared with a fly-button arrangement, waist round should be reduced. The
bottom round of a night dress Pyjama should be little less when compared to an
outdoor Pyjama. If required, attach one pocket on the right side or two pockets on
both the sides.
Features:
Elastic or tape attached waist
Suitable Material:
Cotton, printed, polyester cotton, poplin and cambric.
Measurement Required:
Full length 92cm (36")
Seat Circumference 76cm (30")
Bottom Circumference 60 cm (24")
Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (36) + 2"
= 74"
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Layout Method:
The total length of the fabric required =
Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Instructions for drafting:
Front:
Draw line 0- 1- 2 at a distance of " from the selvedge
1-0 = seat + 3"
2-0 = full length + "
3-1 = seat + 2"
4-0 = same as 3 to 1
Join 3-4
5-3 = one-twelfth seat
6-3 = one-sixth seat
7-3 = half of 5-3 + "
shape fork 6- 7- 5
8-2 = same as 5 to 1 less " or half bottom
9-5 = "
Join 9-8 and shape 5-10 as shown
Back:
11-0 = seat + 1"
Join 9-11 and produce 1" to 12
Join 12-0
13-5 = 1"
Shape fork 11- 14- 13 as shown
15-8 = 1"
Shape inseam 13-15
Keep 1" above 0-4 and 0-12 for casing
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Keep 2" below 2-8 and 2-15 for inturns
Pocket marks:
16-0 = 3"
17-16 = one-sixth seat
Construction Details:
Attach the front and back pieces along the side seam
Finish the front and back crotch seam
Finish the hem
Finish the inside leg seam by joining front and back
Finish the waist band with elastic or tape
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 65
Thread cost = 2
Elastic cost = 3
Stitching cost = 30
Total = 100
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S.B.Coat
Introduction:
S.B.Coat is a sleeved outer garment or jacket worn directly over the shirt
or over vest. It is a two button single breast coat with step collar. It has two
double jetted cut pockets, with flaps and one welt breast pocket. It can be worn as
a formal or informal wear. The sleeve is of two pieces, which is having a seam
along underneath and a seam at the back. It may be with or without vents. Vents
can be placed either at the side seam or centre back.
Features:
Coat collar,
Coat sleeve,
Pocket
Suitable Material:
Cotton, polyester cotton, wool blend, cotton blends.
Measurement Required:
Chest Circumference 92cm (36")
Waist Circumference 82cm (32")
Seat Circumference 96cm (38")
Full length 76cm (30")
Waist length 41cm (16")
Half back 19cm (7")
Shoulder 21.5cm (8")
Sleeve with shoulder 80cm (31")
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Material Required:
Measurement method:
= 2length + in turns
= 2 (30) + 2" = 62"
Layout Method:
The total length of the fabric required =
Components:
Front 2
Back 2
Collar 2
Sleeve 4
Construction Details:
Stitch the dart and finish the pockets in the front pieces
Finish the pockets in the front lining
Join the back pieces along the centre back in both lining and coat piece
Join the shoulders
Prepare the sleeves with lining and join it to the body part
Prepare the collar and join it to the neck part
Now attach the front side lining to the facing
Attach the fasteners
Cost of calculation
Material cost = 400
Lining cost = 60
Canvas cost = 60
Thread cost = 5
Fasteners cost = 15
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Stitching cost = 700
Total = 1240
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