palm based oleochemicals-cosmetics

11

TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM FRUITFRUIT

Palm oil rich in C16 and C18

Palm Kernel Oil rich in C12 and C14

22

NONFOOD USESNONFOOD USES

Palm oil Palm Kernel Oil

Fractionated into palm olein and stearin

Palm olein – foodPalm stearin –

nonfood / oleochemicals

Fractionated into palm kernel olein and kernel stearin

Palm kernel stearin –food

Palm kernel olein –nonfood / oleochemicals

33

44

COMPOSITION OF COMPOSITION OF PO = TALLOW & PKO = CNOPO = TALLOW & PKO = CNO

R, RR, R’’, R, R’’’’ POPO TallowTallow CNOCNO PKOPKO

0.230.23

1.091.09

44.0244.02

4.544.54

39.1539.15

10.1210.12

0.370.37

0.20.2

8.08.0

7.07.0

48.248.2

18.018.0

8.58.5

2.32.3

5.75.7

2.12.1

C6C6 0.30.3

C8C8 4.44.4

C10C10 3.73.7

C12C12 48.348.3

C14C14 2.52.5 15.615.6

C16C16 26.626.6 7.87.8

C18C18 21.821.8 2.02.0

C18:1C18:1 42.842.8 15.115.1

C18:2C18:2 2.32.3 2.72.7

C18:3C18:3

55

CHANGING THE SCENARIOCHANGING THE SCENARIO

Availability of lauric Availability of lauric oilsoilsPredictability in Predictability in supplysupplyGood Government Good Government incentivesincentivesGood infrastructureGood infrastructurePolitical stabilityPolitical stabilityFAC Tallow = POFAC Tallow = POFAC CNO = PKOFAC CNO = PKO

The development of oleochemicals industry

in Malaysia (& Indonesia)

02468

10121416

1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005

Palm Oil PK Oil

66

Percent Utilization of Palm Products in Percent Utilization of Palm Products in Malaysian Oleochemical IndustryMalaysian Oleochemical Industry

010203040506070

PO 2 3.1 3.4 4.5 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.7 4.9PKO 13.3 51.7 47.6 59.3 50 59.2 58.5 63.6 60.7Total P 3.4 9 8.5 10.5 10 10.6 10.5 10.9 11.3

1990 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

77

MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY, MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY, PRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (inPRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (in‘‘000 tonnes).000 tonnes).

0

500

1000

1500

2000

1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

Capacity Oil used Export#Co: 15 14 16 17 16 17

88

TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)

0100000200000300000400000500000600000700000800000

1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005

Acids Alcohol Methyl Ester Glycerol

99

PKO

Crude Methyl Ester

Distilled Methyl Ester

Fatty Alcohol

Fatty AlcoholSulfates

Fatty AlcoholEther Sulfates

Fatty AlcoholEthoxylates

sulfation ethoxylation

High temp. & High pressureHydrogenation

PKO rich in C12 & C14- desired chain length for

surfactants

METHYL ESTER FROM PKO

MES

1010

1111

LOTION WITH VITAMIN ELOTION WITH VITAMIN E

Isopropyl Isopropyl MyristateMyristateOctylOctyl StearateStearateStearic Acid Stearic Acid MCTMCTWaterWaterGlycerinGlycerinPreservativesPreservativesRheological additivesRheological additivesVitamin EVitamin ETriethanolTriethanol AmineAmine

1212

CREAMCREAMIsopropyl Isopropyl palmitatepalmitateOctylOctyl palmitatepalmitateStearic acid Stearic acid MCT MCT CetylCetyl alcoholalcoholGlycerolGlycerolPreservativePreservativeRheological additivesRheological additivesNeutraliserNeutraliser

1313

COLLABORATION WITH HR MARKETING SDN. BHD.

Skincare with goat’s milk

1414

PRODUCTS WITH ROSELLEPRODUCTS WITH ROSELLE

1515

PRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN EPRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN E

1616

• LIPSTICKS LIPGLOSS

• DEODORANT STICK MASCARA

• COMPACT POWDER LOOSE POWDER

• LIQUID FOUNDATION

COLOR COSMETICS

1717

EFFICACY TESTINGEFFICACY TESTINGEfficacy tests (inEfficacy tests (in--vivo and invivo and in--vitro) vitro) are carried out to are carried out to get data.get data.Data is used to Data is used to substantiate claims substantiate claims made on a made on a particular product.particular product.In developed In developed countries countries –– claim claim substantiation is substantiation is necessarynecessary..

1818

SAFETY AND EFFICACYSAFETY AND EFFICACYEVALUATION OF SOAPSEVALUATION OF SOAPS

-0.50.00.51.01.52.02.53.0

Var

iatio

n of

a*

valu

e

Soap A COM2 C

Product

Figure 4. Results of Chromamater Readings

Soap A COM2 C

-* -*

-*

-14.0-12.0-10.0-8.0-6.0-4.0-2.00.0

Var

iatio

n of

Hyd

ratio

nSoap A COM2 C

Product

Figure 7. Results of Skin Hydration

Soap A COM2 C

Irritation test Skin Hydration test

1919

ROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAMROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAM

3535--38% increase in skin moisture 38% increase in skin moisture after application (after application (RosnahRosnah, 2002), 2002)

Figure 2 : Increase in moisture treated with cream vs untreated

-505

10152025303540

0 30 60 90 120 180

Time (minutes)

% In

crea

se Control

DC2

DC3

2020

WHITENING EFFICACYWHITENING EFFICACYStudy 49/01 : Effect on skin

lightness between treated and untreated

-0.5

0.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

T0 T4 T6

Time (weeks)

Var

iatio

n in

L

valu

e

SLC Untreated

Study49/01 : Effect on skin melanin between treated and untreated

-6.0

-4.0

-2.0

0.0

T0 T4 T6

Time (weeks)

Var

iatio

n in

mel

anin

in

dex

SLC Untreated

No. of Volunteers = 20 Product type = cream

Skin types = Group 3 (14), 4 (6)

Result = significant (p<0.05)

2121

• In vitro tests of using the essential oil at 50mg/ml showed that the compounds could significantly reduce Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, which are the main microflora of acne lesion.

020406080

100120

Contr

ol

6.25

12.5 25 50 100

Dose (mg/ml)

% B

acte

rial C

ount

P. acne

S. aureus

In vitro anti-microbial test of essential oil against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus

Palm-based anti acne cream

2222

Direct sebum measurement indicated a 9% reduction after 6 weeks application of the anti-acne cream.

-200

20406080

100120140160180

Sebum(mg/cm2)

% SebumReduction

Seb

um (m

g.cm

-2)

T0 (Control)

T1 (Week 1)

T4 (Week 4)

T6 (Week 6)

In vivo study on the effect of anti-acne cream on sebum production against time

Palm-based anti acne cream

2323

2424

OHOHCH3 CH3 --(CH(CH22))77 --CHCH--CHCH--(CH(CH22))77--COOHCOOH

OHOH

MW 316MW 316

PALM DIHYDROXYSTEARIC ACIDS(PALM DHSA)

2525

PRODUCTION OF DHSAPRODUCTION OF DHSA

COOHCOOHHCOHCO33H or CHH or CH33COCO33H)H)

OOCOOHCOOH

HH++ HH22OOOHOH

COOHCOOHOHOH

9,109,10--dihydroxystearic aciddihydroxystearic acid

2626

In Vitro test for Skin Corrosion

In Vitro test for Skin Irritation

Not determined

In Vitro Dermal irritection Assay

00.2

0.40.6

0.81

1.21.4

R10 R11-A R11-1 R13

DHSA Samples

Hum

an ir

ritan

cy E

quiv

alen

t (HI

E)

50uL

75uL

100uL

125uL

Non-Irritant

Moderate Irritant

Not determine

2727

2828

2929

3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE 3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE SOAP/SOAP NOODLESSOAP/SOAP NOODLES

RCHRCH22COOCOO--CHCH22

RCHRCH22COOCOO--CHCHRCHRCH22COOCOO--CHCH22

RCHRCH22COOHCOOH RCHRCH22COOCHCOOCH33

NaOHNaOH NaOHNaOH NaOHNaOH

RCHRCH22COOCOO-- NaNa++

+ CH+ CH33OHOH

Soap noodlesSoap noodles

3 RCH3 RCH22COOCOO-- NaNa++

+ CH+ CH22OHCHOHCHOHCHOHCH22OHOHRCHRCH22COOCOO-- NaNa++

Soap noodlesSoap noodlesUSP glycerinUSP glycerin

Soap noodlesSoap noodles

3030

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE VARIOUS SOAP NOODLESVARIOUS SOAP NOODLES

Saponification of Saponification of oils/fatsoils/fats

Neutralization of Neutralization of fatty acidsfatty acids

Saponification of Saponification of fatty methyl ester fatty methyl ester

FAC depend on the FAC depend on the types and ratio of types and ratio of various oils/fats various oils/fats usedused

Color Color –– darkerdarker

Elaborate processElaborate process

FAC can be varied FAC can be varied by selecting the by selecting the fatty acids to fatty acids to neutralizeneutralize

Color Color –– goodgood

Simplified processSimplified process

FAC can be varied by FAC can be varied by selecting the fatty selecting the fatty methyl ester to methyl ester to saponifysaponify

Color Color –– Very goodVery good

Process is simple but Process is simple but CHCH33OHOH can pose can pose problem to some.problem to some.

3131

PALM-BASED SOAP NOODLES FROM MALAYSIA

PO 80, 75, 70, 60PKO 20, 25, 30, 40H2O 9-12.5%TFM 79-83%FFA 1.3 - 7.0%GLY 0.4 - 0.6%Sesq. Present

3232

PALMPALM--BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR SKIN CARE & DECORATIVESKIN CARE & DECORATIVE

Developed by Developed by neutralization of fatty neutralization of fatty acids and in acids and in combination with combination with polyol (i.e. glycerine) polyol (i.e. glycerine) as an agent to impart as an agent to impart transparency to the transparency to the soap. soap.

3333

PALMPALM--BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS COMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPSCOMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPS

SampleSample pH pH (1% solution)(1% solution)

Penetration Penetration depth (mm)depth (mm)

TransparencTransparency valuey value

PalmPalm--basedbasedtransparent soap transparent soap

for skin care for skin care

9.849.84 1.091.09 0.900.90

Commercial 1Commercial 1 10.1710.17 0.180.18 0.770.77

Commercial 2Commercial 2 10.4610.46 1.091.09 0.880.88

Commercial 3Commercial 3 10.2810.28 3.093.09 0.860.86

3434

SUMMARYSUMMARY

oo Palm oil is an important oil in the Palm oil is an important oil in the oils/fats marketoils/fats market

oo Very versatile Very versatile –– many potential many potential applicationsapplications

oo Some applications compete with Some applications compete with petropetro--based productsbased products

oo Oleochemical products can Oleochemical products can compete in terms of performance compete in terms of performance and costand cost