palm based oleochemicals-cosmetics
DESCRIPTION
palmTRANSCRIPT
11
TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM TWO TYPES OF OILS/FATS FROM OIL PALM FRUITFRUIT
Palm oil rich in C16 and C18
Palm Kernel Oil rich in C12 and C14
22
NONFOOD USESNONFOOD USES
Palm oil Palm Kernel Oil
Fractionated into palm olein and stearin
Palm olein – foodPalm stearin –
nonfood / oleochemicals
Fractionated into palm kernel olein and kernel stearin
Palm kernel stearin –food
Palm kernel olein –nonfood / oleochemicals
33
44
COMPOSITION OF COMPOSITION OF PO = TALLOW & PKO = CNOPO = TALLOW & PKO = CNO
R, RR, R’’, R, R’’’’ POPO TallowTallow CNOCNO PKOPKO
0.230.23
1.091.09
44.0244.02
4.544.54
39.1539.15
10.1210.12
0.370.37
0.20.2
8.08.0
7.07.0
48.248.2
18.018.0
8.58.5
2.32.3
5.75.7
2.12.1
C6C6 0.30.3
C8C8 4.44.4
C10C10 3.73.7
C12C12 48.348.3
C14C14 2.52.5 15.615.6
C16C16 26.626.6 7.87.8
C18C18 21.821.8 2.02.0
C18:1C18:1 42.842.8 15.115.1
C18:2C18:2 2.32.3 2.72.7
C18:3C18:3
55
CHANGING THE SCENARIOCHANGING THE SCENARIO
Availability of lauric Availability of lauric oilsoilsPredictability in Predictability in supplysupplyGood Government Good Government incentivesincentivesGood infrastructureGood infrastructurePolitical stabilityPolitical stabilityFAC Tallow = POFAC Tallow = POFAC CNO = PKOFAC CNO = PKO
The development of oleochemicals industry
in Malaysia (& Indonesia)
02468
10121416
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005
Palm Oil PK Oil
66
Percent Utilization of Palm Products in Percent Utilization of Palm Products in Malaysian Oleochemical IndustryMalaysian Oleochemical Industry
010203040506070
PO 2 3.1 3.4 4.5 4.6 4.6 4.6 4.7 4.9PKO 13.3 51.7 47.6 59.3 50 59.2 58.5 63.6 60.7Total P 3.4 9 8.5 10.5 10 10.6 10.5 10.9 11.3
1990 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
77
MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY, MALAYSIAN OLEOCHEMICALS: CAPACITY, PRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (inPRODUCTION AND EXPORTS (in‘‘000 tonnes).000 tonnes).
0
500
1000
1500
2000
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
Capacity Oil used Export#Co: 15 14 16 17 16 17
88
TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS TYPES OF BASIC OLEOCHEMICALS EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)EXPORTED FROM MALAYSIA (in tonnes)
0100000200000300000400000500000600000700000800000
1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
Acids Alcohol Methyl Ester Glycerol
99
PKO
Crude Methyl Ester
Distilled Methyl Ester
Fatty Alcohol
Fatty AlcoholSulfates
Fatty AlcoholEther Sulfates
Fatty AlcoholEthoxylates
sulfation ethoxylation
High temp. & High pressureHydrogenation
PKO rich in C12 & C14- desired chain length for
surfactants
METHYL ESTER FROM PKO
MES
1010
1111
LOTION WITH VITAMIN ELOTION WITH VITAMIN E
Isopropyl Isopropyl MyristateMyristateOctylOctyl StearateStearateStearic Acid Stearic Acid MCTMCTWaterWaterGlycerinGlycerinPreservativesPreservativesRheological additivesRheological additivesVitamin EVitamin ETriethanolTriethanol AmineAmine
1212
CREAMCREAMIsopropyl Isopropyl palmitatepalmitateOctylOctyl palmitatepalmitateStearic acid Stearic acid MCT MCT CetylCetyl alcoholalcoholGlycerolGlycerolPreservativePreservativeRheological additivesRheological additivesNeutraliserNeutraliser
1313
COLLABORATION WITH HR MARKETING SDN. BHD.
Skincare with goat’s milk
1414
PRODUCTS WITH ROSELLEPRODUCTS WITH ROSELLE
1515
PRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN EPRODUCTS WITH PALM VITAMIN E
1616
• LIPSTICKS LIPGLOSS
• DEODORANT STICK MASCARA
• COMPACT POWDER LOOSE POWDER
• LIQUID FOUNDATION
COLOR COSMETICS
1717
EFFICACY TESTINGEFFICACY TESTINGEfficacy tests (inEfficacy tests (in--vivo and invivo and in--vitro) vitro) are carried out to are carried out to get data.get data.Data is used to Data is used to substantiate claims substantiate claims made on a made on a particular product.particular product.In developed In developed countries countries –– claim claim substantiation is substantiation is necessarynecessary..
1818
SAFETY AND EFFICACYSAFETY AND EFFICACYEVALUATION OF SOAPSEVALUATION OF SOAPS
-0.50.00.51.01.52.02.53.0
Var
iatio
n of
a*
valu
e
Soap A COM2 C
Product
Figure 4. Results of Chromamater Readings
Soap A COM2 C
-* -*
-*
-14.0-12.0-10.0-8.0-6.0-4.0-2.00.0
Var
iatio
n of
Hyd
ratio
nSoap A COM2 C
Product
Figure 7. Results of Skin Hydration
Soap A COM2 C
Irritation test Skin Hydration test
1919
ROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAMROSELLE MOISTURIZING CREAM
3535--38% increase in skin moisture 38% increase in skin moisture after application (after application (RosnahRosnah, 2002), 2002)
Figure 2 : Increase in moisture treated with cream vs untreated
-505
10152025303540
0 30 60 90 120 180
Time (minutes)
% In
crea
se Control
DC2
DC3
2020
WHITENING EFFICACYWHITENING EFFICACYStudy 49/01 : Effect on skin
lightness between treated and untreated
-0.5
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
T0 T4 T6
Time (weeks)
Var
iatio
n in
L
valu
e
SLC Untreated
Study49/01 : Effect on skin melanin between treated and untreated
-6.0
-4.0
-2.0
0.0
T0 T4 T6
Time (weeks)
Var
iatio
n in
mel
anin
in
dex
SLC Untreated
No. of Volunteers = 20 Product type = cream
Skin types = Group 3 (14), 4 (6)
Result = significant (p<0.05)
2121
• In vitro tests of using the essential oil at 50mg/ml showed that the compounds could significantly reduce Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus, which are the main microflora of acne lesion.
020406080
100120
Contr
ol
6.25
12.5 25 50 100
Dose (mg/ml)
% B
acte
rial C
ount
P. acne
S. aureus
In vitro anti-microbial test of essential oil against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus
Palm-based anti acne cream
2222
Direct sebum measurement indicated a 9% reduction after 6 weeks application of the anti-acne cream.
-200
20406080
100120140160180
Sebum(mg/cm2)
% SebumReduction
Seb
um (m
g.cm
-2)
T0 (Control)
T1 (Week 1)
T4 (Week 4)
T6 (Week 6)
In vivo study on the effect of anti-acne cream on sebum production against time
Palm-based anti acne cream
2323
2424
OHOHCH3 CH3 --(CH(CH22))77 --CHCH--CHCH--(CH(CH22))77--COOHCOOH
OHOH
MW 316MW 316
PALM DIHYDROXYSTEARIC ACIDS(PALM DHSA)
2525
PRODUCTION OF DHSAPRODUCTION OF DHSA
COOHCOOHHCOHCO33H or CHH or CH33COCO33H)H)
OOCOOHCOOH
HH++ HH22OOOHOH
COOHCOOHOHOH
9,109,10--dihydroxystearic aciddihydroxystearic acid
2626
In Vitro test for Skin Corrosion
In Vitro test for Skin Irritation
Not determined
In Vitro Dermal irritection Assay
00.2
0.40.6
0.81
1.21.4
R10 R11-A R11-1 R13
DHSA Samples
Hum
an ir
ritan
cy E
quiv
alen
t (HI
E)
50uL
75uL
100uL
125uL
Non-Irritant
Moderate Irritant
Not determine
2727
2828
2929
3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE 3 PROCESSES TO PRODUCE SOAP/SOAP NOODLESSOAP/SOAP NOODLES
RCHRCH22COOCOO--CHCH22
RCHRCH22COOCOO--CHCHRCHRCH22COOCOO--CHCH22
RCHRCH22COOHCOOH RCHRCH22COOCHCOOCH33
NaOHNaOH NaOHNaOH NaOHNaOH
RCHRCH22COOCOO-- NaNa++
+ CH+ CH33OHOH
Soap noodlesSoap noodles
3 RCH3 RCH22COOCOO-- NaNa++
+ CH+ CH22OHCHOHCHOHCHOHCH22OHOHRCHRCH22COOCOO-- NaNa++
Soap noodlesSoap noodlesUSP glycerinUSP glycerin
Soap noodlesSoap noodles
3030
DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE VARIOUS SOAP NOODLESVARIOUS SOAP NOODLES
Saponification of Saponification of oils/fatsoils/fats
Neutralization of Neutralization of fatty acidsfatty acids
Saponification of Saponification of fatty methyl ester fatty methyl ester
FAC depend on the FAC depend on the types and ratio of types and ratio of various oils/fats various oils/fats usedused
Color Color –– darkerdarker
Elaborate processElaborate process
FAC can be varied FAC can be varied by selecting the by selecting the fatty acids to fatty acids to neutralizeneutralize
Color Color –– goodgood
Simplified processSimplified process
FAC can be varied by FAC can be varied by selecting the fatty selecting the fatty methyl ester to methyl ester to saponifysaponify
Color Color –– Very goodVery good
Process is simple but Process is simple but CHCH33OHOH can pose can pose problem to some.problem to some.
3131
PALM-BASED SOAP NOODLES FROM MALAYSIA
PO 80, 75, 70, 60PKO 20, 25, 30, 40H2O 9-12.5%TFM 79-83%FFA 1.3 - 7.0%GLY 0.4 - 0.6%Sesq. Present
3232
PALMPALM--BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP FOR SKIN CARE & DECORATIVESKIN CARE & DECORATIVE
Developed by Developed by neutralization of fatty neutralization of fatty acids and in acids and in combination with combination with polyol (i.e. glycerine) polyol (i.e. glycerine) as an agent to impart as an agent to impart transparency to the transparency to the soap. soap.
3333
PALMPALM--BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS BASED TRANSPARENT SOAP VS COMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPSCOMMERCIAL TRANSPARENT SOAPS
SampleSample pH pH (1% solution)(1% solution)
Penetration Penetration depth (mm)depth (mm)
TransparencTransparency valuey value
PalmPalm--basedbasedtransparent soap transparent soap
for skin care for skin care
9.849.84 1.091.09 0.900.90
Commercial 1Commercial 1 10.1710.17 0.180.18 0.770.77
Commercial 2Commercial 2 10.4610.46 1.091.09 0.880.88
Commercial 3Commercial 3 10.2810.28 3.093.09 0.860.86
3434
SUMMARYSUMMARY
oo Palm oil is an important oil in the Palm oil is an important oil in the oils/fats marketoils/fats market
oo Very versatile Very versatile –– many potential many potential applicationsapplications
oo Some applications compete with Some applications compete with petropetro--based productsbased products
oo Oleochemical products can Oleochemical products can compete in terms of performance compete in terms of performance and costand cost