pro beauty jan feb 2015
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Jan/Feb 2015
www.probeauty.co.za
To the pointMicro needling
Way to goStandard Operating Procedures
The big piTch Retail selling tips
Durban callingShow Preview
AFRicAn Skin
FOcuS
Blackis beautiful
durban
INSTANT VISIBLE RESULTSFor your business and your clients.
Leaders in professional skin and body care made in Germany.
State of the art scientific research and leading product development.
Free from PEG‘s, parabens, parrafins, synthetic silicon and skin irrirating mineral oils.
Excellent skin compatibility.
Award winning products and packaging.
Worldwide leaders of legendary HY-ÖL® and beauty fluids.
Dedicated customer care and service excellence.
Contact us to discover how BABOR can BETTER YOUR BUSINESS.
+27 (011) 467 0110 | baborsa@babor.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
In this issue...Regulars5 Industry news Local and international news
58 Hair news What’s hot and happening in the
hair industry
64 Product news All the latest launches
70 SAAHSP The latest news from SAAHSP
Business13 Insider Salon/Insider Spa Tracking the industry with stats
14 That all important acronym – SOP
How to ensure tip-top service
20 The subtle art of prescription Retail selling tips
24 East meets West – what’s new Beauty trends in the East
26 The EU classification maze Defining the term ‘cosmetic
products’
Spa Focus19 Revamp for Arabella Spa How the Arabella refurbished itself
Medical Aesthetics68 Results with retinol The benefits of vitamin A
41
1 & 2 MARCH
2015
30 The phenomenon of black skin revision
Facts and myths
34 Treating darker hues Suitable products for
African skin
41 Treatment Reviews Body contouring
51 Focusing on eczema How to treat this skin
condition
55 Needlepoint The latest on micro
needling
Nails60 Fashion at your fingertips Nail art
Features28 Professional Beauty Durban
Show Preview What to look out
for at KZN’s biggest show
55
30
68
28
34
durban
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Ice Site Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, RandburgPO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970 | Fax: 011 781 6079
The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher.Additional pics: www.istockphoto.com, www.shutterstock.com and www.dreamstime.com
Jan/Feb 2015
www.probeauty.co.za
To the pointMicro needling
Way to goStandard Operating Procedures
THE BIG PITCH Retail selling tips
DURBAN CALLINGShow Preview
AFRICANSKIN
FOCUS
BLACKis beautiful
DURBAN
On the coverCover source:www.istock.com
Subscribe9 issues for R475 (RSA)To receive your copy of Professional Beauty call 011 781 5970
Publisher Mark Moloney 011 781 5970 mark@probeauty.co.za
Managing Director Yolanda Knott 083 654 9098 yolanda@probeauty.co.za
Commercial Director Philip Woods 011 781 5970 phil@probeauty.co.za
Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 011 781 5970 joanna@probeauty.co.za
Art Director Ursula Wong 011 781 5970 ursula@probeauty.co.za
Sales Manager Belinda Wewege 073 033 8599 belinda@probeauty.co.za
Senior Sales Executive Charlene Dickson 082 758 1703 charlene@probeauty.co.za
International Sales Executive Melinda Alevras 072 160 6353 melinda@probeauty.co.za
Sales Admin Assistant Obey Dube 011 781 5970 obey@probeauty.co.za
Sales Executive - Classifieds Somi Bululu 011 781 5970 somi@probeauty.co.za
Subscriptions Phillip Nkomo 011 781 5970 phillip@probeauty.co.za
Accounts Manager Lizelle Foord 011 781 5970 accounts@tetradeevents.com
Operations Manager Barbara Hocking 011 781 5970 barbara@probeauty.co.za
Marketing Manager Stacey Platt 011 781 5970 stacey@tetradeevents.com
Marketing Co-ordinator Palisa Shongwe 011 781 5970 palisa@tetradeevents.com
Social Media Administrator Penelope Mtshali 011 781 5970 social@tetradeevents.com
Printers House of Print 011 474 8750
So, here we are at the beginning of another new year – a year that will
hopefully see salons, spas, distributors and manufacturers thrive, despite
the threat of power cuts and the challenge of an unfavourable exchange
rate, which translates into ever-increasing prices for imported products.
In this issue we introduce a regular feature called Insider Salon/Insider
Spa, the purpose of which is to track how the industry is faring in terms of business.
For this inaugural instalment of Insider Salon/Insider Spa, we look at how 2014
compared to 2013.
We always start the year off with a focus on African skin, and this issue includes
a fascinating article by acknowledged skincare expert Danné Montague-King, who
conducted in-depth research on the subject in South Africa in the 1980s.
There are also articles on how therapists can prescribe products to clients in
a way that should ensure sales, the importance of having an SOP (Standard
Operating Procedure) manual in your salon or spa, micro needling as a
skin rejuvenation modality, and body-contouring treatment reviews.
The Professional Beauty team is looking forward to the Professional
Beauty Durban Show, which will take place at the Durban ICC in its
brand-new time slot of 1 & 2 March. This issue includes a sneak peek at
just some of the exciting products and innovations that will be on display.
Joanna Sterkowicz
Editor
Welcome
For more information contact: Marine Spa Distributors011 880 3440 / 011 880 3851
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
industry news
Said the EOHCB’s Mariska du Plessis: “We saw the need for
therapist training that meets the requirements of both the
industry and the consumer sector. The new qualification
will move us closer to the ideal of the aesthetic therapist.
“This is just the beginning – now comes the roll-out and
ensuring all the schools take up the qualification. In three years
we will have our first crop of aesthetic therapists.”
Du Plessis thanked the National Bargaining Council for
facilitating the process of drawing up the qualification, and
Centurion Academy for being part of the beauty task team.
The EOHCB, UASA and City & Guilds signed an agreement of
collaboration at the launch.
News in pictures
NewsAll the news and views
from the world of beauty,
spa and nails.
5
The internationally recognised Industry Beauty Qualification (SA) was officially launched in Johannesburg on 19 November by the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology & Beauty), UASA (The Union) and City & Guilds.
New Industry Beauty Qualification
On 24 November Marine Spa Distributors (MSD)
held an event to commemorate the 50th anniversary
of premium French skincare brand, Thalgo, at
Camelot Spa Villa d’Este in Johannesburg.
Thalgo’s area manager for South Europe, Middle
East and Africa, Frédéric Crosaz, was present at the
event. He said: “Thalgo is a family-owned company
with strong values. We are in 90 countries, in 500
prestigious resort spas all over the world.
“Thalgo invents the beauty of tomorrow. We
invest in advanced research in order to push the
boundaries of ‘Marine Intelligence’. This includes
developing new massage techniques, creating
ever more effective formulas and making an even
greater commitment to excellence.
“MCeutics is Thalgo’s first demaceutical brand
and will launch in 2015. This is our medical-like
approach to correcting skin disorders. The MCeutics
range is made with a very high concentration of
active ingredients.”
The event also served as the launch pad for
the Prodige Des Océans Essence, and Thalgo’s
new device, the I Beauty Ingenious Skin Solution,
which uses three technologies (sounds vibrations,
sequential ultrasound and radio-frequency) to
offer a complete facial treatment menu.
Perfect 10 Bedford Centre became the first
South African salon to purchase an I Beauty, closely
followed by Orange Peel in Cape Town.Senior advisor to Danish
cosmeceutical skincare
brand Beauté Pacifique,
Tilde Orum Sauer, visited
South Africa recently
to demonstrate the
Dermascan ultrasound
device to the local
market. Dermascan allows
therapists to analyse the
layers beneath the skin.
Pictured are Sauer (right)
and Natalie Oosthuizen
from South African
distributor, Prana.
Mariska du Plessis, Paul Fox, Orenna Krut and Stephen Delport
Frédéric Crosaz and brand ambassador Johanna Mukoki
MSD celebrates Thalgo’s 50th birthday
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
Skin iD offers chemical peels
to correct the signs of ageing,
hyperpigmentation and acne.
Donker has 20 years of experience
in the professional skincare industry,
having worked for companies such as
Dermalogica, Nimue Skin International,
Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and
pHformula.
Says Donker. “My passion for
chemical peeling dates back to when
I conducted training on chemical
peeling aimed at doctors, nurses and
therapists for Conquest Aesthetics
several years ago.”
Skin iD is situated adjacent to
the rooms of reconstructive and
plastic surgeon Dr Anton Potgieter,
Building on the strengths and
experience gained from the popular
SpaGuru desktop application,
SpaGuru CC has launched its new
online product, ChiDesk.
Key features include appointment
scheduling, point of sale, and marketing
and employee management. Support
for multiple locations is seamless,
Peeling clinic opens in Sandton
who will refer
patients to Donker
for their peeling
requirements.
Donker offers the
Dermaceutic range
of peels. “These peels
are only available in a
medical setting so I
want to differentiate
myself by working with these types
of brands that are not available in a
normal beauty salon.”
Skin iD also consults to companies
in the medical aesthetic industry.
Services include staff training,
education curriculum development
and PR services.
New online business tool
Internationally qualified professional skincare therapist Sonette Donker has opened Skin iD, a peeling practice located at Johannesburg’s Sandton Medi Clinic.
6 industry news
■ Sorbet launches skincare range: Nail and beauty salon
chain Sorbet has launched
Sorbet Skin Care, developed in
conjunction with Clicks.
■ Anesi infiltrates KZN: Five
salons in KwaZulu-Natal (KZN)
have taken on Spanish skincare
and body care range Anesi,
following a successful launch
event in Umhlanga hosted by
distributor Exclusive Beauty
Solutions.
■ Dermalogica increases its ‘Tribe’: Perfect 10 in Honeydew
Village, Roodepoort, has taken
on the Dermalogica brand.
■ Snow Algae Powder honoured: Based on the extract
of a unique algae that is able to
grow on glaciers and permanent
snow, Mibelle Biochemistry’s
Snow Algae Powder has won the
Frost & Sullivan Best Practices
European Anti-Ageing Skin
Care New Product Innovation
Leadership Award.
■ MUD opens three new showrooms: Make-Up Designory
(MUD) showrooms have opened
in the Free State, Northern Cape
and Nelspruit, Mpumalanga.
■ DMK SA appoints ambassador: Danne Montague-
King South Africa (DMK SA) has
appointed popular TV presenter
Liezel van de r Westhuizen
(Idols, Expresso) as ambassador.
News in brief
allowing the user to control multiple
businesses from a single account. The
ability to share client, loyalty, voucher
and pricing information across
multiple sites is also supported.
A locally hosted version of ChiDesk
is available to South Africans, ensuring
optimal speeds and minimal downtime
due to international internet outages.
Sonette Donker
Liezel van der Westhuizen
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Thank you for voting us as best supplier - Again!
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
8 industry news
different climate regions in South
Africa to use and test laboratory
samples on themselves, as well as
their clients. According to their
feedback and recommendations,
the Hannon laboratory samples were
adjusted and often reformulated
over a period of 11 years. During this
development stage the samples were
used and tested on individuals with a
range of skin sensitivities. No reports
of irritation to these products have
been reported to date.
Team celebrity tanner Darryn
Johnson has joined Vita Liberata
South Africa from the UK as sales
executive and head trainer.
Johnson will not only train
all Vita Liberata’s Western Cape
salons and spas, but will also be
the in-house private hire ‘Tanista’
for clients who wish to receive a
Vita Liberata home experience.
The company’s Hannon Bothma
describes himself as a ‘walking
experiment’ for the range,
which was developed in
association with cosmetic
and chemistry engineers
from the University of
the North-West and the
University of South Africa, as
well as a selected group of
beauty therapists.
“We have launched
Hannon Skin Care with 16 products,
including two cleansers, a toner, two
exfoliators, two serums, two masks
and a variety of moisturisers.
“The range is formulated with
the patented ingredient, Moist 24,
which reverses the ageing process
and remains active for 24 hours.
It is derived from an extract from
the roots of a plant called Imperata
Cyllindrica,” says Bothma.
He notes that he personally
selected beauty therapists from the
Celebrity tanner for Vita Liberata
Radiant Healthcare sponsored
prize packages of the Velashape
III and Cooltech Fat Freeze for
the winner and finalists of the
Rapport newspaper competition
News in pictures
South African hair and make-up brand Hannon has launched a professional skincare range – the result of 11 years of development.
New SA skincare range
Newdevelopmentat Babor
Babor South Africa has appointed
Nina Von Wielligh as its new sales
representative for Cape Town.
Before starting her journey with
Babor, Von Wielligh, who was born
and raised in Cape Town, worked as
a paramedical therapist and has a
strong passion for skincare.
“Nina’s extensive skincare
knowledge, coupled with a
meticulous work ethic, makes her a
valuable asset to every Babor client,”
says Leigh-Anne Wagner, Babor
South Africa’s brand manager.
for the new film, Leading Lady. Pictured are the Radiant
Healthcare team at the film’s
première with the winner Elsa
Doubell (in white dress).
Darryn Johnson
Nina Von Wielligh
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
10 industry news
The brainchild of Prana MD
Debbie Wolfendale and
business partner Nicola Tyler,
Prana & Co was officially launched
on 13 November. It offers beauty, nail,
nutrition and aesthetic treatments, as
well as alternative therapies.
Says Tyler: “Debbie and I wanted to
Dermalogica has announced that
two of its staff have been promoted
– Claudia da Silva (formerly
operations manager) is now general
manager, while financial manager
Aimee Hollis has been appointed as
a director of the company.
do something different with the Prana
name, realising that only through
collaboration would the business
succeed. We’ve been talking about
Prana & Co for the past three years.
It’s been a big shift to move from
distribution to a service and retail
business.”
Dermalogica staff upwardly mobile
Luzinda De Meyer has joined the
Poise Brands team as Mio Skincare
business development consultant for
Eastern and Western Cape.
Poise Brands has appointed
Barbara Meintjies as Juliette Armand
business developer for Gauteng and
Surrounds.
Tina Scholtz has been appointed as
president of SAAHSP (South African
Association of Health and Skincare
Professionals).
With over 40 years of experience in
the industry, Scholtz, who is owner of
the Potchefstroom Academy, has always
been actively involved with improving
industry standards. She has been on the
SAAHSP board on and off for the past 20
years, and served as vice-president for
several years.
Scholtz also held the position of
professional body coordinator and
Scholtz appointed SAAHSP president
She notes that Wolfendale
took a long time to identify the
people who would make up the
‘& Co’ part of the wellness lounge.
These include aesthetic doctor
Melissa Smith, chiropractor Debbie
Harmon, nutritionist Jocelyn
Thompson and Tamarin Barker,
who offers lesion/blemish removal
services with a radio frequency
device. Each of the above runs
their own business under the Prana
ethos.
Wolfendale has developed
several bespoke signature beauty
treatments for the wellness lounge
that are a mix of Eastern and
Western cultures.
The front of the wellness lounge
acts as the showroom for the range
of products distributed by Prana.
Poise team expands
chairperson for the committee,
developing the generic National
Diploma Health and Skincare.
In what is believed to be a unique concept, import company Prana has launched a wellness lounge at Planet Fitness Wanderers in Johannesburg,
Importer launches wellness lounge
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
13 business trends
HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN 2014
COMPARE TO 2013?
Insider Insider is our new and exclusive business round-up. We polled salons and spas in Johannesburg, Pretoria, Cape Town, East London, Durban and Port Elizabeth to gauge how 2014 panned out for the industry.
INSIdER SAlONIt is evident that salon owners
found 2014 a challenging year
due to the poor economy, the
weak exchange rate, power cuts
and petrol price increases. Yet
despite this, more than half of
you experienced a growth in
treatment business.
The biggest revenue generators
in terms of treatments in 2014
were waxing and pedicures,
while the most popular nail treatments were gel and
standard manicures.
Most respondents to the Insider survey cited sourcing
suitable staff as their biggest concern, as well as finding
new clients.
The year in numbers
PERCENTAGE OF BUSINESS GENERATED
BY RETURN CLIENTSIN 2014
81%
AVERAGE TREATMENT PRICE INCREASE IN 2014
9%
INSIdER SPAAll respondents to the survey reported a growth
in treatment business in 2014 – a sure sign that the
global wellness trend is alive and well in South Africa.
However, the growth in treatment business from
spa to spa varied quite considerably, with one spa
reporting a 1% increase, while another cited a 65%
increase. This vast disparity between numbers must
be taken into consideration when reading the figure
of average growth in treatment business quoted
below.
Only four spas did not increase treatment prices
in 2014.
As one would expect, the most overwhelmingly
popular treatment at spas in 2014 was massage.
The biggest problem currently experienced by spa
managers is finding suitably trained staff members
who are committed to the job.
AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM
OCCUPANCY IN 2014
67%
58% BETTER
10% SAME
32% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN 2014
COMPARE TO 2013?
47% BETTER
21% SAME
32% WORSE
82% BETTER
18% WORSE
HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN 2014
COMPARE TO 2013?
AVERAGE TREATMENT PRICE INCREASE IN 2014
9.4%
AVERAGEGROWTH IN TREATMENT
BUSINESS IN 2014 COMPARED TO 2013
20%
AVERAGE TREATMENT
ROOM OCCUPANCY
69%
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
14
Have you ever called a
salon to make a booking
and found that the
telephone is answered
differently all the time?
Have you ever had the same
treatment with a different therapist
and one treatment was amazing while
the other was absolutely awful?
Do you sometimes get offered
homecare advice and given a
professional product recommend-
ation, and sometimes not?
Is your facility sometimes spotless
and at other times a little messy?
I am 100% sure that you can relate
to at least one of the above.
One of the biggest challenges
faced by beauty salons and spas is to
standardise the level of service within
the business. This can ONLY be done
with a Standard Operating Procedures
(SOP) Manual which, in my opinion,
needs to be issued to each new staff
member, in conjunction with a full
training session of about three
weeks on these procedures.
Do you have an SOP manual in
your business? I won’t be surprised if
you say no, as this is a mammoth task
to complete. But I can assure you
that once you have a template and a
few procedures in place, you will see
how necessary it is to operate your
business from this manual.
DEFINITIONAn SOP is a written document
outlining the company’s policies and
procedures.
WHY DO YOU NEED ONE?
To standardise procedures, to
ensure consistency, to ensure that
the company expectations are
clear and precise, to maintain the
highest international standards,
and to upgrade service delivery
continuously.
With service and customer satisfaction a key element for sustainability and survival, Marisa Dimitriadis looks at what steps spas need to take to ensure tip-top service and make customers return.
That all important acronym – SOP
R
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
16
HOW DO I GO ABOUT THIS?
It’s a huge task to decide what
procedures you want to standardise
in your business.
Here are some MUST HAVE’S:
• Taking a booking
• Confirming a booking
• Giving directions
• Answering calls
• Guest arrival and welcome
• Treatment room set-up
• Locker set-up
• Cancellation of bookings
• No appointment on arrival
• Payment confirmations
• Department checklists
• Receiving stock from a supplier
• Start of every treatment
• Treatment procedure
• End of every treatment
• Dealing with a complaint
• Guest check-out
• Sexual harassment
• Dealing with colleagues
• Therapist grooming
And the list continues. In our
business every time we have a
misunderstanding of how things
should be done, we implement an
SOP immediately. For example,
someone called in to our offices the
other day and asked for directions
and neither the receptionist or
accountant knew how to give
directions. Our general manager
immediately implemented an SOP
on ‘How to direct a client to our
office’. Now there can be no doubt as
the entire procedure is documented
step by step.
Above is a real example of an
SOP document.
Now your task is to first decide on
a list of SOPs and then take one at a
ANGEL SPA POLICIES AND PROCEDURES
Subject: Receiving of stock Code: AS6020
Division: Management/Front Desk/Therapists
Standard: Receive stock quickly and in a professional manner away from the reception area.
Policy: Stock to be placed in the storeroom and to be checked by management or receptionists only.
time and decide what you want your
business standard to be. Then discuss
it with staff and get their input and
create a final manual.
Implementation The next mammoth task is how to
implement and maintain the SOPs.
Some pointers below:
• Issueeachstaffmemberwitha
draft manual
• Allowtimetostudy
• Role-playEVERYsingleSOP
• Role-playasecondtimewith
different staff
• Allowstaffinteractionand
feedback
• Makefinalchanges
• Allowtimetostudy
• Writtenexamination
• MysteryguestreviewforALL
staff over a three-month period
The success of your SOP manual
lies in how often you refer to it,
meaning that when a staff member
makes a mistake or does something
that is not according to company
policy and procedure, a formal
reference to the SOP manual must be
made and all staff made aware of it.
This way the next time a staff member
is not sure, they will refer to the SOP
manual.
You also need to update your
manual at least once a year. Staff must
be retrained in full on the manual at
least once a year, even if they know it
off by heart.
It’s necessary to continuously add
to the manual as the need arises. The
second the need arises for another
SOP, don’t waste time and draw one
up immediately and implement. PB
Marisa dimitriadis is founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. E-mail her on marisa@thespaconsultants.co.za for more information.
Procedure:
Receive stock through the front door and immediately move it to the storeroom.
Sign the delivery sheet
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS STOCK TO BE LEFT LYING AT THE RECEPTION AREA
Check stock quantity is correct and quality of packaging good in storeroom
Tick next to each and every product on the invoice to confirm that it is in the box
Discrepancies on invoice to be immediately reported to accounts department of supplier and noted on the invoice.
Date, name and sign on the invoice of the person who checked the stock
Place checked invoice in the INVOICES TO BE LOADED IN the system tray in store room
Price retail stock according to prices on the system
Place priced retail stock on the retail shelves
Place professional stock on relevant product tray or shelf
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For more information contact: Patricia Clarke Johannesburg, South Africa • Symphony Health cc • Tel: +27 11 793 2321 • Tel: +27 11 792 2641 • Fax: +27 11 792 7461 • patricianewsum@yahoo.com • www.patricia-clarke.com • PO Box 1158, Fontainebleau, 2032
PC
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Offer highly skilled treatments to remove unsightly &
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Before
After
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To order or for more information contact us on Tel: 011 795 2264 / E-mail: janine@lamprobe.co.za www.lamprobe.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
19 spa focus
Opened in 2001, the
Arabella Hotel & Spa
nestles on the scenic
route from Cape
Town to Kleinmond,
between the majestic Kogelberg
Mountains and the Botriver Lagoon.
According to assistant spa manager
Jenny Kusel, the refurbishment of the
spa has resulted in four additional
treatment rooms.
“We now have a total of 17 treatment
rooms, as well as a couples’ room. As a
result of this expansion, we have taken
on more therapists to meet the high
client demand,” she explains.
Kusel also notes that the
gym at the Arabella Hotel & Spa
was upgraded this year. “This
upgrade correlates to the latest
trends in fitness centres, such as
the cardiovascular machine with
personal viewing and television
features, elliptical machines, etc.”
When asked how the Arabella
Spa, winner of the 2014 Les
Nouvelles Esthétiques Award for
Best Hotel Spa, differentiates itself
in the local and African spa markets,
Kusel responds: “The serenity and
ambience of the spa offers an oasis
of tranquility, enhancing the flow
of energy, bringing mind, body and
soul in harmony. The passion of
our team introduces the guest to a
journey of rejuvenation and good
health.”
She reveals that the most popular
brands at the Arabella Spa are Babor,
Six Sensational Skincare, Spalicious,
The spa at the Arabella Hotel in Hermanus recently underwent a six-month long refurbishment while still remaining fully operational throughout, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Revamp for Arabella Spa
SPA AT A GLANCEOwner: Hospitality Property Fund (HPF)
Management: African Pride Hotels Group
Opened: August 2001
Size: 1 250m2
Number of treatment rooms: 17 and 1 couples’ room
Number of permanent therapists: 12
Hydro facilities: Rasul chamber, indoor heated hydro pool, steam rooms, saunas, cold stream showers
Mama Mio, OPI and Lilian Terry,
while the most requested
treatment is the full body massage.
Signature treatmentThe Arabella Spa is known for its
African Rain Forest Treatment, a
world first. Inspired by the African
rains, this is a two-hour sensory
water and steam treatment that
was created exclusively for the
spa, using African products. PB
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
20 business tips
The subtle art of prescription
Retail sales should tie in directly with the business strategy and planning of any spa or salon, writes Francisco Garcia.
For a day spa or a salon, with quite a
substantial amount of return clients,
retail sales should account for about
40% of total turnover, whereas 30%
is a good ratio for a resort hotel spa
or destination spa.
Therapists know in advance how their bookings
look for the next day, so they should plan their
retail sales the day before a client arrives for their
appointment.
The cornerstone of selling retail is consultation.
This assists in creating a conversation (ie. opening
the sale), which, in turn, leads to the therapist making
a recommendation and the client re-booking another
appointment. The therapist can then formulate an
ideal home care regime for the client.
business tips
21
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
Consultation I cannot stress enough the importance of the
consultation process and the power that it has.
Pre-printed consultation cards must be
available for each client to complete just before
their treatment. Ideally the therapist needs to read
the client card in full prior to seeing the client.
The therapist should then sit down with the client
at eye level and engage in a formal two-minute
consultation, so as to develop a rapport and thus
open the sale.
There is a lot of psychology and preparation
involved in a proper consultation. Some therapists
spend five full minutes doing a correct and thorough
consultation; they draw the physiognomy of the
muscle or skin on the back of the consultation
card for the client to
understand exactly what
they are going to do.
A study has been
done on the specific way
to sit the client – with
their back facing the
treatment room door to
ensure that they focus
only on the therapist
with no distractions. The
study also shows how
to sit the client back
up after the treatment
is finished; how to
put slippers/shoes on
when doing the retail
recommendation at the
end of the treatment;
and how therapists can be trained to ask questions
so that clients are compelled to reply ‘Yes’.
During the consultation the therapist must
confirm the treatment/s to be done and refer to
at least one item on the card. Make sure you write
down what the client says and ask: What is your
main concern? Where is your main concern? Why
is there a concern there? And the most powerful
question is: WHEN do you want to see results?
Remember that rapport is the most important
step to ensure a sale and client loyalty.
Recommendation The next stage is the all-important recommendation
– your suggestion of what should be done. You
could say something like: ‘Try to have a facial more
often’.
Following the recommendation comes the
prescription – this is the written instruction
(prescription sheet) officially telling someone
what they need and how to use it.
There is a lot of psychology and preparation involved in a proper consultation. Some therapists spend five full minutes doing a correct and thorough consultation.
R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
22
In terms of the actual sale, focus on what your client
needs and what makes your client happy. Very often
therapists HARD SELL instead of HEART SELL. As
therapists are paid commission on the retail products
they sell, they sometimes think, ‘What products can I sell
to help me get closer to my retail target?’ instead
of ‘Which products does this client need
specifically?’ You need to ensure that
your client buys the product from you
and not from someone else.
Identify wants, needs, and
objectives. Talk less and listen more.
Ask relevant questions. Create the
need and suggest a solution in a
way that they have never thought
about before. For instance, you
could say: ‘Think of how much
money you spend on coffee each
day? Now, I can guarantee you that
this product will last you three months
and the cost per application is a quarter
of what you spend in coffee per day.’
Before you finish the treatment ensure your
client is in a comfortable position so that he/she can give
you her full attention. Tell the client that the treatment
is not finished yet and that you are going to get them a
glass of water and then when you return, you will discuss
their treatment recommendation.
Always offer two options for home care: Option 1 is
the biggest quantity of the product – ‘the ideal purchase’,
while Option 2 is the smaller size – ‘the one you can’t be
without’.
Mention the product’s name, price, size, what it
does and add a couple of ingredients. It is here where
the therapist needs to make sure she adapts her sales
pitch to the client’s personality. Hand the client the
prescription form with the products listed on it only at
the very end of the treatment, before the client is about
to walk out of the room, or tell them you will leave the
copy of the prescription inside the bag with the products
recommended.
And ask the magic questions: ’Would you like to take
the products? Can I put these in a bag for you?’
Francisco Garcia is the group spa operations director of Amani Spas and has been in the industry since 2008. He was formerly spa director of Arabella Hotel and Spa, and, prior to that, spa manager of Mount Grace Country House. Email: fran@amanispas.co.za
What not to forgetWhen selling retail use the power of smell and
texture. Sell the reasons why your client can’t live
without the products.
Makes sure you rebook your client’s next
appointment and make bookings as far in
advance as you can. Call them a maximum
of one week later and try to rebook
them.
For a resort hotel spa, find out
how long the client’s stay is and,
depending on the length, when
the client comes for a massage
they could actually rebook
another massage for the next day.
Too often therapists are obsessed
with removing knots in the back,
which can result in bruising the
muscle. Rather do as much as
you can without bruising and try to
rebook your client for another massage.
StrategyTherapists need to make a conscious effort to plan
and strategise their sales in advance to reach their
targets. A proper analysis and evaluation of their
daily performance must take place so they can adapt
their sales technique or approach.
Spa managers should assist their teams in starting
this process, but the rest is up to the therapists.
Following a step by step guide is recommended.
Remember – the therapist is in charge of their pay
cheque. The amount of commission they generate
is in their hands alone. They have to believe in the
process, and only they can make it happen. PB
Always offer two options for home care: Option 1 is the biggest quantity of the product – ‘the ideal purchase’, while Option 2 is the
smaller size – ‘the one you can’t be
without’.
HERE IS A STEP-By-STEP gUIDE FOR THE THERAPIST:1. Plan your month ahead;2. Set tough personal goals; 3. Plan your treatment upgrades and
your retail for the day;4. Plan each client that you will see for
the day;5. Set goals for every single client you
will see.
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
24
Visiting Cosmoprof Hong Kong
was everything I hoped it would
be – exciting, stimulating and a
great learning experience.
I was excited to check
out what was new for our industry. It was
intriguing to see that the beauty market in
the East mainly supports French and English
cosmetic brands, rather than dominating
with its own products, as is done in so many
other industries.
One of the East’s cutting-edge brands that
did make big news was the product called Rice
Force. Derived purely from rice, it focuses on natural
fermentation technology.
A new French brand that caught my eye, Gemology,
was founded by Chrystelle Lannoy. The concept is
based on the cosmetic properties of 19 precious and
semi-precious minerals. It uses diamonds, jade and
sapphires, among others, and, through a chemical
process, transforms them into trace minerals, which are
just brilliant for the skin.
Micro needling was represented by many companies
and is big business today. The needles pierce the skin,
creating a natural healing and rejuvenating effect. If
you prefer something more commercial, there were
tons of sonic brush cleansing units and a wide range of
inexpensive vibrating facial massage apparatus. These
are less invasive and much more affordable.
Lash extensions are still very popular – lashes with
diamonds, glitter and even flowers!
And then there were stalls and stalls of body décor.
Stick-on tattoos are huge – funky or sophisticated,
ranging from glow-in-the-dark, to glitter, to traditional
dragons. They’re a great idea, pain-free and very hip.
Nail art has been around for a while, with a multitude
of ranges of jewels, stickers and even 3D nail options.
It’s wild, it’s big and it’s beautiful.
The East does dominate in one area, and that is with
equipment. There are so many options for
laser, slimming and rejuvenation machines
available there. Great machines, but the good
news is that we have lots of them in South Africa. The new
I Beauty device with a sound vibration spatula, sequential
ultrasound, and tripolar radio-frequency is a technological
and treatment ingenuity with absolutely amazing results.
On the spa front the Four Seasons, Landmark, Peninsula
and the Ritz Carlton wowed me. But I also realised how
lucky we are in South Africa – our spa treatments are
inexpensive in comparison, at almost a third of the price.
To end my stay, I had a two-hour spa treatment starting
at 9.30 pm. They work long hours in Hong Kong! The
standard and experience was exceptional. I felt like I had
gone to heaven and loved the idea of a night treatment,
where I could roll into bed in my hotel and carry on with
that heavenly sensation.
Pure deliciousness. Especially after all the walking I did
at Cosmoprof. Zzzzzz…PB
It wasintriguing to seethat the beauty
market in the East mainly supports
French and English cosmeticbrands.
Debbie Merdjan is CEO and founder of the Camelot Group - encompassing health & skin care training. She has been in the industry since 1982 and started Camelot International Health & Skin Care Education in 1987, and opened her first Camelot Spa in 1997.
East meets West – what’s new?Keen to compare the business of beauty in the East to that in South Africa, Debbie Merdjan attended the recent Cosmoprof Hong Kong trade show.
Calgel
Are you looking for a gel nail system which…
• soaks off very easily?
• does not damage the natural nail?
• does not lift?
• is soft, flexible and natural-looking?
• comes in an ever-growing range of colours?
• makes nail art easy?
... is the answer. Calgel
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
26 business tips
Tadej Feregotto is CEO of CE.way Regulatory Consultants Ltd., a company that specialises in EU regulatory consulting for cosmetic products.
The term ‘cosmetic
products’ covers
a wide range of
products, but not
every product that
we may consider to be a cosmetic
in everyday life would actually be
classified as a cosmetic product in
the EU.
So, would your product be
classified as a cosmetic product
in the EU? In order to provide a
positive answer to this question,
your product has to fulfil certain
criteria. According to the current
cosmetics legislation in the EU
(regulation 1223/2009), the product
has to be a substance or a mixture
intended to be placed in contact
with the external parts of the human
body (epidermis, hair system, nails,
lips and external genital organs)
or with the teeth and the mucous
membranes of the oral cavity with
a view exclusively or mainly to clean
them, perfume them, change their
appearance, protect them, keep
them in good condition or correct
body odours.
Therefore, products that may
seem to be cosmetics, like nail
wraps, are not cosmetics even
though they are placed in contact
with the external parts of the human
body and their primary function is
to change the appearance of nails,
but they wouldn’t be considered a
substance or a mixture. Similarly, for
example, a comb or
a tooth brush are not
cosmetics.
Since products have to
be placed in contact with the
external parts of the human body
or with the teeth and the mucous
membranes of the oral cavity, any
product intended to be ingested,
inhaled, injected or implanted into
the human body would also not be
considered a cosmetic product in
the EU. Breast implants, therefore,
are not cosmetics, even though their
primary function is also to change
appearance.
ClaimsClassification of the product often
depends on the claims which
the manufacturer makes for that
product. This is especially the
case with the so-called borderline
products, where products have
characteristics of more than one
product category, and it is therefore
difficult to classify them. Cosmetic
products can be borderline with
medical devices, pharmaceuticals,
biocides, toys etc.
As explained above, cosmetic
products should have the function
of exclusively or mainly cleaning,
perfuming, changing appearance,
protecting, keeping in good condition
or correcting body odours. The
intended function does, among other
things, not include products presented
as having properties for treating or
preventing disease in human beings.
Therefore mentioning, or visually
presenting, any diseases on cosmetic
product labels is not allowed. Neither
is using words or phrases which
present a medicinal intent, such as:
cures, heals, treats, restores, prevents,
clears, protects against disease, helps
control the symptoms of, traditionally
used for treatment of, strengthens the
immune system etc. PB
The EU classification maze
Continuing our series on the challenges of entering the EU market, this time Tadej Feregotto looks at which products are classified as cosmetics in the EU.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
professional beauty durban
28
APS will demonstrate how offering a
Studex ear-piercing service (for belly,
nose and ear) can increase income and
foot traffic into salons.
Discover Babor’s latest spa concept for
your professional beauty business. Find
out why over 150 partners have already
opened a Babor Beauty Spa, and what
makes them so profitable.
Beauty by Nature – Moyou Africa offers
high-quality, long-lasting nail designs and
nail decorations.
Best Lasers is proudly the sole Southern African
distributor of Alma Lasers, a global developer,
manufacturer and provider of laser, light-based, radio-
frequency and ultrasound devices for aesthetic and
medical applications.
Bio Sculpture Gel, inventor of the world’s first soak-
off gel and first colour gel, continues to create colour
ranges and exclusive manicure, pedicure and spa
products, combined with innovative accessories.
BTL Industries designs and manufactures non-
surgical machines for fat-dissolving, skin-tightening,
anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, lymph drainage and IPL
treatments.
Primary ingredients of Bo-D-VINE products are Shea
butter, ginseng root and activated charcoal.
Creative Glamour will launch new foundations,
powders, gel eyeliners and mascara and offer high-
quality, affordable brushes and accessories.
The EGN Shellac original vitamin-infused UV/LED
soak off 1 & 3 step gel is available in 426 trendsetting
fashion forward colours – no formaldehyde, no DBP
and no toluene.
ESP’s latest spa and salon software
includes major enhancements to
the loyalty system, multi-branch
integration with enterprise control,
group gift vouchers, Web browser
access (which also offers access
via smart phones and tablets),
new reports and new Business
Intelligence.
Sold to over 20 countries, eyeSlices
is an award-winning, relaxing, re-
usable eye treatment pad that
targets puffiness, dark circles,
tiredness, red eyes and anti-ageing
in just five minutes.
Graftobian HD Professional Make-up
will exhibit at the show for the first
time. Products include: professional
cosmetics, fantasy make-up,
airbrush make-up, Halloween make-
up, theatrical make-up and Moulage
make-up.
Gwenya Salon Organics is an all-
new natural range of affordable,
bulk body treatment products, from
scrubs to massage and masks.
Hitech Lasers will exhibit the Lumenis
M22 Multi-application Platform (IPL,
Nd:YAG, Q-switched Nd:YAG and
ResurFX), as well as the LightSheer
Diode pain-free hair removal laser.
Three LightSheer Diode Lasers are
offered in South Africa: LightSheer
Duet, Desire and Infinity. A 3-year
service plan is offered on all Lumenis
products.
Kryolan will offer a 20% discount off
all products.
Come and witness Lamprobe
instantly remove many different
types of lesions/blemishes at its
stand.
In its exciting new time slot of 1 and 2 March, the 2015 Professional Beauty Durban Show, which takes place at the ICC, will showcase a wealth of exciting new products and innovations.
1 & 2 MARCH
2015
durban’s top beauty days
business tips
29 29
Nature’s Essence will launch the Papaya range,
called TBC by Natures.
Pure Smile is the only 100% natural teeth-
whitening supplier in South Africa and will
offer a show special.
Rainbow Bath and Beauty will exhibit natural,
Beauty without Cruelty-endorsed products,
including natural soy massage candles,
aromatherapy bath salts, salt scrubs and lip
balms.
RégimA's cutting-edge range, The Zone,
utilises combinations of supremely advanced
technology for maximum anti-ageing. The
Zone Power Peels combine six natural acids.
Launching in KZN at Professional
Beauty Durban, Skinny Tan is a
natural self-tanning lotion that
immediately reduces the visual
effects of cellulite.
SkinTECH will launch Enerpeel
Chemical Peels and Akni Care
lotion and cream from Italy. PB
Lay’s Beauty will launch its hair
treatment oil (at a very affordable
price) and a treatment oil for muscle
pain and arthritic conditions. There are
show specials on Lay’s tissue oil spray,
essentials oils, Tantra-licious massage
oils, carrier oils, creams and soaps.
Lilian Terry International – creator of
homeopathic aromatherapy – will offer
a 10%-off show special and showcase
its LT FlexyCups, facial gels, toners and
massage oil complexes.
Make-Up Designory (MUD) will exhibit at
Professional Beauty Durban for the first
time since its launch in South Africa.
Cost-effective and award-winning Viora
body-sculpting and skin-rejuvenation
systems will be on offer at the Medilase
stand. The Viora V30 multi-application
platform with four hand pieces, including
Fractional RF skin rejuvenation for all
skin types, IPL, skin-tightening, RF and
Nd: YAG, will be showcased.
Nailsforu will offer massive discounts
on the full range of the award-winning
nailsforu product range and introduce a
polish range.
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
african skin
As far back as the 1980s, when I was researching Black skin treatments in Chicago, I became aware of many factors that went far beyond mere pigmentation, writes Danné Montague-King.
The phenomenon of Blackskin revision
30
business tips
31
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
Pigmentation is the least of the
differences between Black and
Caucasian skins, Black skin having a
superior cell structure and defence
mechanism.
In addition, Black skin cells proliferate at a
more rapid rate than Caucasian skin cells. This is
why when you place a 50-year-old White lady and
Black lady side by side, the latter lady will appear
years younger, with very few lines and wrinkles as
compared to the other woman. In the USA there
is an amusing term – ‘Black don’t crack’ – tossed
around by the community. I was quite surprised to
hear this same term used in South Africa during a
recent visit, and it’s true!
This rapid proliferation of cells has one
downside: it makes skin more susceptible to keloid
scars, a disorder very common to Black skin.
Rete pegs, the conduits of nutrients to the
underlying basal cells, are also stronger and
somewhat more numerous than those in Caucasian
and other ethnicities. Indian skin, for example, is
fairly fragile. The myth that deeper-toned Indian
skin should be treated the same as Black skin
has led to many problems for skin therapists and
dermatologists.
Pigment I believe it is totally false that Black skin has more
melanocytes than any other skin colour.
The number of melanin cells is approximately
the same for all races, but the pigmentation
inside the melanin cells is packaged differently.
Imagine melanin cells to look like jelly beans. Inside
the Asian jelly bean the actual pigmentation,
manufactured by the golgi apparatus organelle,
would be about 75% of the bean, with a lot of
natural beta carotene in it, which accounts for the
‘gold’ or ‘yellow’ undertone of people from Asia.
Caucasian skin’s jelly beans may contain about
66% of the pigmentation but Black skin’s jelly
beans would be full of pigmentation to the border
of the bean.
Distribution of the melanin cells over the body
is also quite different; Caucasian people’s melanin
is displayed in the ‘sub-epidermis’ area, while Black
people’s melanin is distributed copiously on the
entire epidermal surface and even down into the
pores. This creates a highly reflective surface that
bounces away much of the harmful radiation from
constant sun.
One might think that with all of these superior
‘positives’ Black skin could survive anything,
including skincare products for general use by all
ethnicities. WRONG!
Most Black clients will know what it means to
get ‘the ashy’s’ after using general use products.
This is a redundant group of cells – excess corneum
that builds up leaving the skin dull with a faint R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
32
The same mind set
was also predominant
in the USA back in the
1950s, but when the
racial, social and economic
revolutions took place, all of
this changed.
Nowadays African-Americans
are proud of the tones they were born
with – whether it be the lightest café
au lait or the deepest ebony. People
glory in a rainbow of rich browns
in all the undertones, be they red,
yellow, gold or even olive. What they
do want is for these wonderful tones
to be even and smooth. And bright,
not white.
In South Africa a Caucasian beauty
therapist untrained in the science and
unique qualities of Black skin will not
be a trusted first. This will change as
more training is made available.
I appeal to all Black therapists,
dermatologists and even general
practitioners and nurses to seek out
specialised training in this field – and
realise that it is a specialised field. PB
african skin
greyish over-tone. Often misconstrued
as ‘dry skin,’ it is actually only very fast
cell proliferation that is still attached
to the underlying corneum barrier.
Treating black skinThe first step is a proper cleanser.
It should soften the excess cuticle
barrier but not strip the skin of natural
sebaceous oils that represent one half
of Nature’s natural moisturiser, the
acid mantle.
Contrary to popular belief, most
Black skin is not excessively oily or
lipid-rich. The ‘shine’ seen on persons
with deeper skin tones is merely a
reflection of light, not excess oils.
Herbal-based liquid cleansers are
best. There are many ‘soap’ plants,
such as white oak bark, which are
deep-cleansing without being sebum-
stripping. These types of herbs
(Burdock is another) help to soften
up the dead cells with a natural,
astringent surfactant action.
Enzyme-based masques,
professionally applied, totally remove
the excess cuticle, especially in the
case of pseudofollicultis (razor bumps)
suffered by many Black males.
Due to Black hair being oval in
configuration, the ends of the hair
are flat and sharp. Think of the excess
cuticle as being rather like shingles on
a roof as viewed under a microscope.
The sharp hair catches under these
‘shingles’ and is re-directed back
down into the living tissue, causing it
to become irritated and inflamed.
The new baby cells in that area
perceive this as an ‘unnatural’ situation
and try to encapsulate the problem by
forming new cells around it – forming
a type of ‘granuloma’ that results in
a visible and uncomfortable bump
on the surface of the epidermis. Men
with kinky textured hair are afraid to
shave this area with a normal razor,
which cuts through the bump and
results in bleeding, scabbing and
hyperpigmentation. Regular enzyme
treatments totally alleviate this
problem.
On female clients this type of
treatment not only removes all the
‘ashy’s’ but brightens the skin totally,
bringing out its even tone while lifting
away unsightly dark areas around the
mouth, across the forehead and
under the eyes.
Follow-up and daily
products should include natural
moisturising with a herbal spray,
a highly fractionated oil blend
that resembles sebum as closely
as possible (including a blend of
tocopherols and other anti-oxidants)
and crèmes that have an acidic base
as opposed to alkaline.
Alkaline crèmes and soaps
above pH5.3 dull the skin
and compound the ashy
appearance.
F e r m e n t e d
orange peel oil in
a transepidermal
crème base is
excellent at
b r i g h t e n i n g
up deeper skin
tones.
Mental attitudeDuring my early years of research in
South Africa on Black skins, dealing
with problems of acne (teen and adult
onset varieties), hyperpigmentation
and the hydroquinone poisoning
disease, ochronosis, I discovered the
mind set of ‘whiter skin is better skin’
to be rampant in the Black community.
This gave an open door to all kinds
of quacks, unscrupulous pharmacists
and ‘beauty experts’ to sell people
hideous concoctions with very high
percentages of hydroquinone and
even bird guano with household
bleach! I have seen skin so suppurated
with infection that cancer was one
stop away.
danné Montague-King has won international recognition and endorsement by the medical profession for pioneering a skin rejuvenation system that recognises the importance of offering skin cells a chemistry they recognise. He is founder of the DMK skincare empire.
Contrary topopular belief,
most Black skinis not excessively
oily orlipid-rich.
Pigmentationis the least of the
differences betweenBlack and Caucasian
skins, Black skinhaving a superior cell structure and defence
mechanism.
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
african skin
34
Among the main concerns of African skin are lack
of radiance, uneven skin tone, pigmentation,
blemishes and dark circles under the eyes.
Zone Pigment Perfector, the new anti-
pigmentation treatment from RégimA, draws on
the individual strengths of multiple skin-lightening actives.
Says RégimA’s Jacqui Faucitt: “This product combines Lumiskin,
the latest in proprietary skin-lightening actives, together with
Sophora root extract, the enhanced lightening action of black
tea extract and the latest in stabilised Vitamin C technology for
unparalleled skin-lightening power.
“Added to this, kiwi fruit extract has been found to be particularly
beneficial for under-eye dark circles. Because African skins are
more prone to keloid scarring, it is important that a product
For therapists performing treatments on African skin, there is a wide range of products for clients with darker skin types to choose from.
Treating DARKER HUES
35
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
african skin
R
Offer more with multiple technologies
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provides anti-glycation to prevent hardening of elastin
and collagen fibres. This product is safe even for the
upper and under eye area.”
Also from RégimA, Zone Scar Repair Forté is a
unique super-strength serum which is recommended
for prevention and treatment of keloid scarring, helping
active acne and improving acne scarring.
“Actives, at their maximum strength, accelerate the
healing process, ensuring more rapid scar maturation,
with balanced collagen synthesis, preventing ugly
hypertrophic and keloid scar
formation, achieving the very best,
most aesthetically pleasing end
result. This product further acts on
older hypertrophic and keloid scars
(ugly, raised scars), promoting
their maturation, helping flatten,
reducing pain and improving
function,” explains Faucitt.
RégimA’s in-salon treatment
– Zone Power Peel – combines
six powerful natural fruit acids
including peach, raspberry and
apple, which have a lightening
effect superior to hydroquinone
with 100% safety. With the addition
of healing plants, renowned for
essential anti-inflammatory and
antioxidant action, this peel offers
a therapeutic action.
RadiancePhytomer has developed the White Lumination
Brightening Radiance Treatment
to reveal the radiance of the
complexion and diminish dark
spots through its main active
ingredients of sea lily, dictyopteris
and Vitamin C. This treatment
targets uneven skin tone, dark spots
due to skin ageing, sun exposure
or hormonal imbalances, as well
as dull complexion. It reduces skin
pigmentation for a more translucent
and radiant skin.
The complete treatment
consists of a one-hour facial, which
includes a double exfoliation and a
plasticising mousse mask, followed
by a white lamination serum and
cream to effectively boost radiance
and target dark spots.
Eye focusPriori’s Coffeeberry Radiance Eye
Serum incorporates an all-natural
formula fortified with Coffeeberry R
36 african skin
extra and nature’s most potent antioxidants to
fight free radicals and the causes of skin ageing.
This lightweight serum is designed
specifically for the delicate eye area to help
to reduce the appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles. It reduces dark circles and puffiness
and has a tightening effect.
Homeopathic aromatherapyLilian Terry International’s Aftersun is not
only great for repairing sun-damaged skin
– addressing symptoms such as premature
ageing, excessive dryness and high sensitivity to
solar radiation – but is also specially formulated
to both treat and prevent hyperpigmentation.
Studies done in Kiev, Ukraine, also showed that
Aftersun stimulates a remarkable improvement
in metabolic, hormonal and defensive activities
of the skin when applied on a daily basis.
Elastoderma – another complex from Lilian
Terry International – contains homeopathic
remedies and essential oils that assist with
repairing damaged skin due to stretching,
scarring or keloids, which occurs a lot with
African skins. Elastoderma promotes collagen
production so it also works wonderfully
to combat the signs of ageing as
it tones up the skin and acts on
deeper wrinkles.
Aftersun and Elastoderma
are homeopathic aromatherapy
massage oils, containing carrier
and essential oils combined with
specific homeopathic remedies.
They are completely natural and
self-regulatory and don’t affect the
action of any medication the person
might be on.
Physician-strengthDermaFix MD Prescriptives
SkinLite physician-strength
formula visibly diminishes
hyperpigmentation and
evens out skin tone.
This targeted treatment
contains a unique triple-
action formula which
works by inhibiting the
tyrosinase activity and
having inhibitory effects
on melanogenesis. SkinLite can be used on all skin types and
ethnicities.
Also from DermaFix, MD Prescriptives Intensive Scar Repair is
a rich emollient combining three copper peptides with a series of
clinically proven active dermaceutical ingredients that boost your
natural production of both collagen and elastin. It is a soothing
healing formulation for optimised results after laser resurfacing,
dermabrasion, chemical peels and any advanced treatments.
Universal day creamLuminescence Cream from Anesi Beauté is a
corrective treatment cream that evens skin
tone, reduces the synthesis of melanin and
lightens pigmented areas, while leaving
the skin soft and moisturised.
“Many people are unaware of the sensitivity of African skins not only to the sun, but also to certain active ingredients and in-salon treatments. Therefore the therapist needs to be very cautious when it comes to treating darker skins, as they could worsen the condition or cause hyper- or hypo-pigmentation in certain cases.”Dr Robert Gobac
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
37 african skin
“We o�er training, maintenance, repairs, installations and sales on the �nest world class medical and aesthetic brands.”
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Lasers by:Laser Hair RemovalVein RemovalPigmentationVascular lessionsSkin tighteningFat FreezingCellulite TreatmentMicro-needlingFocused UltrasoundRadio FrequencyCarboxyTherapyCryolipolysisStretch MarksLaser ResurfacingRejuvenationSkin Care ProductsScars & AcneTattoo RemovalDermal FillersMicrodermabrasionLight TherapyShock Wave Therapy
carboxytherapy
Face-SoniXFacial & Body cleansing system
Pumice
www.sternlaser.co.za
Hydrate
Massage
Exfoliate
Cleanse
It can be used as a universal day cream together with
any of the Anesi Beauté serums, especially Aqua Vital
Serum.
luminosityPevonia’s lumblanc is an intensive solution for
hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This is a dynamic
complex of highly active whitening and lightening agents.
Fused together into a state-of-the-art microsphere, this
Pevonia-proprietory formula enters the skin effortlessly,
delivering the actives directly to the target areas.
In tests, the natural ingredients in lumablanc
yielded greater results than hydroquinone at
four weeks. Key ingredients are undaria licorice
and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. They
inhibit tyrosinase and prevent dopaguinone
oxidation, as well as fading brown patches.
This cream evens the tone and texture
of the skin, while illuminating the face and
preventing hyperpigmentation. In addition it
stimulates the skin regeneration and synthesis
of collagen.R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
38 african skin
SensitivityAccording to Dr Robert Gobac
of Dr Gobac Cosmeceuticals,
many people are unaware of
the sensitivity of African skins
not only to the sun, but also to
certain active ingredients and in-
salon treatments.
“Therefore the therapist
needs to be very cautious when
it comes to treating darker
skins, as they could worsen the
condition or cause hyper- or
hypo-pigmentation in certain
cases,” says Dr Gobac.
He recommends Dr Gobac
Lighten, a new-generation
skin-lightening product,
developed to target unwanted
pigmentation. It contains a
botanical extract high in arbutin,
a known skin-lightening agent,
as well as botanical extracts of
lemon peel and tilia cordata,
better known as small-leaved
lime, which not only reduce
pigmentation but also have a strong
anti-inflammatory effect on the skin.
This treatment is highly effective
and safe to use in the long term, as
well as during pregnancy.
Dr Gobac Sunscreen SPF25
is a lightweight, non-toxic sun
protection cream that has been
scientifically formulated for safe use,
even on babies’ delicate skin. It does
not contain any of the toxic organic
chemicals that have been known to
cause irritation to the skin. Instead it
contains the latest ‘buzz’ ingredient
– Zinc Clear – along with a number of
potent agents to effectively destroy
and eliminate free radicals in the skin. Ingredients such as Vitamin C,
brown algae extract, and ozone protection substances, have also been
included to reduce oedema (swelling) induced by sun exposure. This
product protects against UVA and UVB at a critical wavelength of
370nm – a requirement set forth by The European Cosmetic Toiletry and
Perfumery Association (COLIPA).
‘Master ingredient’A new active ingredient, O.D.A.white, has been selected as the ‘master
ingredient’ in Ericson Laboratoire’s lightening treatment. Another
innovative active ingredient, Lumiskin, has been integrated in the company’s
cosmetic formulas. It is designed to slow down the melanogenesis process,
and, therefore, slow down pigmentation.
The experts at Ericson Laboratoire say that many cosmetic products
use a traditional method which works on the upper layers of the skin. They
continue: “The innovation of our Perfection-White Expertise Treatment lies
in the fact that we go back as far as possible in the biological pigmentation
chain by acting at two levels. Firstly, we modify the genetic action prior to the
pigmentation process, and, secondly, we re-route the cellular messengers
which produce pigments.”
CoverageThe Deep Brown Corrector from MUD (Make-Up Designory) is creamy
in texture and pigment-rich, designed to conceal and camouflage skin
imperfections.
This Corrector can be blended with MUD’s Cream Foundations for
flawless, full coverage. It is perfect for use on medium-dark to very dark skin
tones to even out unwanted dark areas.
39
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
african skin
LightSheer® Diode Laser
Pain-free Hair RemovalUp to 75% faster than the rest of the market
The “Gold Standard” 805 nm Diode Laser
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- HS 22x35 mm - HITTM - XC 12x12 mm - ChillTipTM
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Upgradable and portable
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No Anaestetics and Gels
Treats skin types 1 - 6
The “Gold Standard”805 nm Diode Laser
2 Handpieces for treating ALL body areas
- HS 22x35 mm - HITTM - ET 9x9 mm - ChillTipTM
2 Advanced technologies
- Vacuum Assisted High-Speed Integrated TechnologyTM (HITTM)- ChillTipTM Technology
No Anaestetics and Gels
Treats skin types 1 - 6
Dual Wavelength
- 805 nm for all skin types - 1060 nm (Nd:YAG) - the optimal solution for tanned & dark skin types, all year round
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- HS 22x35 mm - HIT TM - LR 9x27 mm - ChillTipTM
- ET 9x9 mm - ChillTipTM
Most Advanced Hair Removal Laser in the market
2 Advanced technologies
- Vacuum Assisted High-Speed Integrated TechnologyTM (HITTM)- ChillTipTM Technology
Treats skin types 1 - 6 Fastest and most comforable treatment available for darker skin types
Unmatched Versatility
High patient satisfaction
3 Handpieces for treating ALL
- XC 12x12 mm - ChillTipTM
9x9 mm - ChillTipTM
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High-Speed Integrated Technology- ChillTip
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Treats skin types 1 - 6
2 Handpieces for treating
9x9 mm - ChillTipTM
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the optimal solution for tanned & dark skin
TM
9x27 mm - ChillTipTM
9x9 mm - ChillTipTM
Removal Laser in the market
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Treats skin types 1 - 6 Fastest and most comforable treatment available for darker skin types
Unmatched Versatility
LightSheer® DESIRE™
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www.hitechlasers.co.zaE-mail: hitech@hitechlasers.co.za
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For minor correction, MUD advises mixing the
Corrector into the Cream Foundation before applying
onto the skin. In cases of darker pigmentation, the
Corrector should be applied directly to the discoloured
area prior to the foundation and blended well.
Aesthetic treatmentsComfort and confidence are two of the most important
principles with a light-based aesthetic treatment,
particularly in the treatment of darker skin types (type
IV to VI). Fortunately, advances in the past decade
have given rise to a range of devices that can be safely
used on African skin. Longer wavelength lasers, such
as the 810nm Diode and 1064nm Nd:YAG, fractional
lasers and radiofrequency devices have all been used
safely for pigmentary abnormalities, resurfacing and
skin tightening in African skin, as well as hair removal.
Naomi Olivier of Hitech Lasers points out that only
two light-based technologies for hair reduction in
darker skin types are FDA-approved: the long-pulsed
Diode (810nm) and Nd:YAG (1064nm) lasers.
“These two types of lasers have longer wavelengths
and extended pulse durations and when combined
with active epidermal cooling, these lasers provide the
greatest efficacy with the lowest side-effect profile in
treating skin phototypes IV to VI,” she says.
Hitech Lasers has two Diode lasers – the LightSheer
Desire and LightSheer Duet, as well as the LightSheer
Infinity, a dual wavelength laser which combines the
two safe technologies (diode and Nd:YAG) in one
system. All three hair removal lasers are manufactured
by Lumenis and are clinically tested for safety, efficacy
and comfort in the removal of hair in dark skin types.
LightSheer Desire is a table top 805nm Diode Laser
for permanent hair reduction.
According to Dr Elliot Battle, an Afro-American
Dermatologist, the Nd:YAG, which emits a wavelength
of 1064nm, has been proven to be the safest to treat
the darkest skin types. This type of laser is able to
travel deep below the skin’s surface to reach the
melanin in the hair follicle without damaging the skin’s
superficial layer. The Nd:YAG is considered by many in
the industry to be the gold standard for performing
laser hair removal on Fitzpatrick skin types V–VI. PB
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online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
41 treatment review – body contouring
I’d heard of Juliette Armand as
being a premium skincare brand,
and was interested to test the
effectiveness of their body-
contouring range.
My Elements Triple Action
treatment was performed by Meghan
Less, training manager at Poise
Brands, the exclusive distributor for
Juliette Armand in South Africa.
“As its name suggests, this is a triple
action body treatment for slimming,
cellulite prevention and firming,” said
Less. “It helps to increase circulation
and encourage lipolysis, a fat-
burning process, thereby
allowing the skin to regain its
normal shape and elasticity.”
The first stage of the
treatment was the detoxifying
peel, containing both
glycolic and lactic acids. Less
applied the Juliette Armand
Detoxifying Peeling Gel, while
explaining that this would remove
dead skin cells to ensure maximum
efficacy of the treatment to follow. The
peel was left on for four minutes and
my legs began to feel warm.
“You’re experiencing what is known
as hyperaemia – increased blood flow
to the treated area,” noted Less.
Next, without removing the peel,
Less applied Celluslim Slim onto my
thighs, with a massaging action.
She then mixed some Thermoslim
Gel together with the Celluslim Mud
Mask, which comprises mud from the
Dead Sea, as well as seaweed. This
was applied to my thighs. Following
application, each thigh was wrapped
in nylon and my lower half covered
One, two, three – go!Yolanda Knott opts for the Juliette Armand Elements Triple Action Therapy body contouring treatment to rid her thighs of that stubborn cellulite that even the most rigorous exercise won’t budge.
with a warming
blanket.
“This treatment is a
vasodilator – the combination
of heat and mud helps to get rid of
cellulite,” commented Less.
Fifteen minutes later, Less removed
the mask with tepid water and applied
the 10% Caffeine & Artichoke Serum.
Artichoke increases fat burning,
while caffeine is an effective delivery
mechanism. Less massaged my thighs
with a ‘rolling’ motion. As she rolled
I could actually feel the positive
effect on my cellulite. This serum is
compatible with aesthetic devices
such as ionizers, ultrasound and radio-
frequency.
The treatment concluded with the
application
of the Triple
Action Gel.
Less warned
me that my
legs would
be red for about 20 minutes after the
treatment, which turned out to be the
case.
As I got dressed I could definitely
see a difference in the texture of the
skin – it was much smoother, almost
as if Less had ironed out the bumps.
Overall the treatment is a pleasant
experience – there is no scrubbing and
no burning sensation. A course of 12
treatments is recommended.
For home care I bought the
Celluslim Serum, the 10% Caffeine and
Artichoke Serum and the Triple Action
Gel. PB
“Thistreatment
is a vasodilator – the combination of heat and mud helps
to get rid of cellulite.”Meghan Less
Contact: Poise Brands 011 033 0500
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
treatment review – body contouring
42
I’d recently experienced some
weight gain due to a hormonal
imbalance, and was keen to have
a body-contouring treatment to
firm up.
My treatment took place at the
Johannesburg offices of Anesi’s South
African distributor, Exclusive Beauty
Solutions (EBS).
Anesi brand and education
ambassador Yolandi Mestre told me
that Anesi’s well-known body range,
Parafango, has been around for a long
time, and is a combination of Dead Sea
mud and warm paraffin.
“Anesi recently launched its
new body treatment – the Haute
Performance Cellulite Rebelle
Treatment – in Europe. We’ve now
tried and tested the treatment and are
happy to bring it into South Africa,”
explained Mestre.
This thermal body-contouring
treatment was specially formulated to
reduce stubborn cellulite. It is a three-
stage treatment comprising a body
exfoliation, the application of a powerful
ampoule with active ingredients in roll-
on form, and a finishing cream.
Melinda Alevras ‘feels the heat’, so to speak, while experiencing the Anesi Haute Performance Cellulite Rebelle Treatment.
The power of the ampoule
Mestre applied the Cremfoliant
to my lower body; this is a dry body
exfoliator made up of peach grains
which eliminate dead skin cells.
Cremfoliant also contains Vitamin C
as well as folic acid for its anti-oxidant
properties. This exfoliant needs no
rinsing and smoothes the skin to allow
for deep penetration of the ampoule.
Said Mestre: “I’m now going to apply
the Concentre Chauffant Cellulite
Rebelle ampoule. This has a thermal
effect so the treated area will feel
hot. The three active ingredients are
Sensihot, which activates circulation,
while Regu-shape diminishes fat
accumulation and stimulates lipid
destriction. Regu-slim dramatically
reduces fat tissue.”
Mestre applied the roll-on ampoule
over the area and then wrapped it in
Anesi’s Osmotic Film and covered me
with a blanket. This was left on for 20
minutes and I could definitely feel a
growing sensation of heat.
In the meantime Mestre talked
about pricing. “Body treatments
are generally expensive, so if you
can come in with a cost-effective
treatment then you will capture the
main market share. The cost per
treatment to the salon is very low, so
salon-owners should be able to come
up with a really attractive price for
the client. Salons can combine this
treatment with Parafango for quicker
results.”
To finish off the treatment
Mestre applied the Crème Objectif
Minceur, a thermal active cream,
and performed a lymph drainage
massage. This product contains
guarana, caffeine, L-Carnitine and
retinol chromospheres.
For home care Mestre
recommended daily use of this
product as well as Crème Objectif
Fermeté to firm up the skin.
I could definitely see a difference
in skin tone after just one treatment
and was keen to embark on a course
of treatments. PB
Contact: Anesi 011 791 4027
GOAL:The perfect body
Remodels,reduces and toneseffectively.
Exclusive Beauty SolutionsTel: +27 86 112 6374or +27 11 791 4027www.exclusivebeauty.co.zadalize@exclusivebeauty.co.za
S O I N D U C O R P S
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
44 treatment review – body contouring
When I arrived at
Radiant Healthcare,
a Syneron
distributor in
Randpark Ridge, I
asked clinical trainer Danelle Landman
about the main differences between
the VelaShape II and the VelaShape III.
“Basically the VelaShape III has
a sophisticated closed-loop RF
(radiofrequency) feedback mechanism
and a built-in temperature sensor for
a precise treatment with increased
patient comfort and safety. The higher
RF power output will ensure that the
client requires fewer sessions.”
Like its predecessor, the VelaShape
III is powered by Syneron’s elos
technology and combines IR
(infrared), bi-polar RF, pulsed vacuum
and mechanical rollers. The device
heats the tissue up to a depth of
between 3mm and 15mm.
Landman explained: “It is the
combination of these technologies
that causes deep heating of the fat
cells (adipocytes), their surrounding
connective fibrous septae and the
underlying dermal collagen fibres.
“The optimal design of the
electrodes and the concurrent
application of vacuum allows for
deeper and faster heat penetration.
In turn, this promotes an increase
in circulation, lymphatic drainage,
cellular metabolism and collagen
depositing. It also stimulates fibroblast
activity and remodels the extracellular
matrix.”
All primed to ‘shape’ upHaving experienced the Syneron VelaShape II body contouring treatment exactly a year ago, Joanna Sterkowicz was keen to discover the technological advancements of its successor, the VelaShape III.
Landman commenced the
treatment on the back of my cellulite-
ridden thighs, using the VelaShape
III’s cellulite applicator. I was delighted
to discover that the vacuum and the
roller action was a lot more gentle
than the VelaShape II, where I actually
had to ask the operator to reduce the
intensity of the treatment, due to my
low level of tolerance. Conversely,
during the VelaShape III treatment, I
nearly dozed off.
Landman commented: “The
treatment protocol with the new
machine is completely different to
the VelaShape II, in that we perform
vertical and horizontal ‘stacking’ for
body contouring, to prevent the heat
from building up too quickly in one
spot, as well as a different ‘gliding
technique’ on cellulite. ”
The recommended duration of
treatment for each anatomical area
is 15 minutes.
Contraindications are varicose
veins, pregnancy and lactation,
pace-makers, diabetes, epilepsy,
thrombosis and open cuts.
Unique to the Velashape III (and
the industry) is the ‘Vela-Once’
treatment. This is a totally new
treatment for body contouring
and circumference reduction, and
requires only one ‘long’ single
treatment with very effective results.
The VelaShape III won the
trophy for the best Non-Invasive
Body Shaping Device at the 2013
Anti-Ageing Medicine European
Congress in Paris. PB
Contact: Radiant Healthcare 011 794-8252/3
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
46 treatment review – body contouring
Following a food-
filled Christmas
holiday I was
looking to reduce
the circumference
of my abdomen and thighs.
Best Lasers, the South African
distributor of the Accent Ultra
V selective lipolysis and body
contouring work station, arranged
for my treatment at the Kloof
Laser Clinic in Brooklyn, Pretoria.
Therapist Beauty Dlamini
explained that this would be a
three-part treatment, combining
the Accent Ultra’s V’s ultrasound
technology, which uses Shear
waves to break down the fat
cells, together with its UniForm
module. This targets cellulite with
a combination of Alma Lasers’ RF
UniPolar technology, in parallel with
a mechanical lymphatic drainage
technology.
“In addition, Best Lasers always
advises us to end this treatment
with a session of BiPolar RF for
skin-tightening,” said Dlamini.
She commenced the treatment
by rubbing Vaseline on the left
side of my abdomen and my left
thigh as a conductive medium in
preparation for the Accent Ultra
V’s Ultra module, for the ultrasound
phase of the treatment.
Dlamini continued: “The
ultrasound is made up of a ‘cold
mode,’ which targets the fat cells,
while the ‘hot mode’ compression
Ultrasound and RF to the foreBelinda Wewege experiences a non-invasive, pain-free body-contouring treatment courtesy of Alma Lasers’ latest device, the Accent Ultra V.
waves thermally enhance the
process. These two modes
help to destroy fat cells.
“With the Accent Ultra V
you only work on the areas of
the body with fatty pockets.
The machine is capable of
going up to 300 watts, while most
other machines on the market only go
up to between 50 and 70 watts.”
The ultrasound felt so smooth
and relaxing that I almost fell asleep
during the treatment.
Dlamini then applied some almond
seed oil onto the treatment area
before applying the UniForm hand
piece. As this is RF technology it
does feel hot on the skin, but the
heat is quite bearable and in no way
uncomfortable. The UniForm works on
the dermis of the skin and penetrates
to a depth of 20mm to reach the
subcutaneous fat layer.
Once this was completed, Dlamini
used the BiPolar RF hand piece, which
penetrates to a depth of 6mm to
work on the epidermis.
Throughout the RF treatment
Dlamini used a thermometer to
monitor my skin’s temperature
to make sure that it remained
between 38 and 44 degrees
centigrade.
When Dlamini finished the left
side of my body she requested
that I go to a mirror to see how my left
side compared to my right side. To my
delight there was a marked difference
– the treated side definitely looked
tighter and lifted, prompting me to
immediately book for a course of six
treatments.
Once she had completed the
treatment on my right side, Dlamini
emphasised that I should drink lots
of water and go for a brisk walk to
continue the process of lymphatic
drainage. PB
Contact: Best Lasers 012 998 9844
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
48 treatment review – body contouring
Prior to undergoing the
Sculpt Zone treatment,
which took place at the
newly opened Urban
Bliss Spa in Emmarentia,
Johannesburg, all I knew about
Phytomer was that is a premium
French marine brand.
On arrival, spa manager Lerato
Tlhame noted that Sculpt Zone is a
100% natural treatment incorporating
biotechnology.
“This is an intensive and localised
treatment for the abdomen, buttocks
and thighs that targets excess fat and
cellulite.
“Ideally we suggest a course of
four treatments over two weeks,
but if the client is short of time
they can opt for a one-week course
comprising two treatments. Clinical
test results show that you can lose
at least 1cm waist circumference with
Sculpt Zone,” explained Tlhame.
She then commenced the
treatment with a short relaxation
exercise, which involved taking
deep breaths and inhaling Oligomer
essence. Containing 104 trace
Contouring, the marine wayHeleen Wiese takes aim at her problem areas by experiencing Phytomer’s Sculpt Zone body contouring treatment.
elements, Oligomer is Phytomer’s
flagship marine ingredient and helps
to relax and feed the body.
For the exfoliation phase of the
treatment, Tlhame used the Phytomer
Toning Body Scrub, which also
contains Oligomer as well as marine
salt crystals. Lying on my side, Tlhame
started the exfoliation process on the
back of my abdomen before doing
the backs of the thighs and buttocks,
followed by the stomach and front
of thighs. The scrub felt nice and
warm and was removed with a damp
compress.
To mix the mud for the Thermo-
Sculpting Body Wrap, Tlhame mixed
400gm of powder to 300gm of
lukewarm water.
“The star ingredient of the mud is
Pepper Slimactiv,” continued Tlhame,
“which is derived from the pepper-
seed oil plant in South America.
It targets fat cells and inhibits the
genes that cause fat, thus stimulating
lipolysis. A big advantage of this wrap
for spas and salons is that it does not
clog the drains or stain towels.”
Tlhame applied the mud with
massaging movements. I could feel
the heat of the mud and actually
heard it bubbling and popping on
my skin. Once it was applied I was
wrapped in Phytomer’s Micron Foil
to increase the heat. The mud was
left on for 20 minutes, during which
time Tlhame performed a scalp
massage.
After the mud had been rinsed
off, Tlhame applied the Contouring
Massage Concentrate. She did this
with very strong and deep massage
movements which she referred to as
‘kneading, cupping and hacking’, to
encourage lymphatic drainage.
The final stage of the treatment
was the application of Celluli Attack,
to continue the lipolysis process.
At the end of the treatment,
what I refer to as ‘the hail effect’ (ie.
cellulite dimples) on my buttocks
and thighs had definitely diminished,
and my skin looked a lot firmer. PB
Contact: A&I Importers 011 486 4904
Johannesburg * Durban * Cape Town * Bloemfontein * Nelspruit * Port Elizabeth011 888 9044 * 031312 4962 * 021 522 6999 * 051 451 9071 * 013 741 2553 * 041 581 8106
Thank you for voting us as best supplier - Again!
FACE & BODYInnovative biotech ingredients combined with exceptionalmanual techniques for instant visible youth results.
WELLBEINGDeeply holistic, PHYTOMER protocols offer comprehensiveand relaxing care through a range of sublime signaturetreatments.
SUPPORTPHYTOMER offers partnership in the truest sense of theword: therapist training, marketing and promotionsalongside incomparable customer service all helping to meetthe needs of your business.
MORE EFFECTIVE MORE SENSORIAL MORE ENVIRONMENTALLY ENGAGED
A&I Importers - 0114864904 - info@ai-importers.co.za - www.ai-importers.co.za - www.phytomer.com
THE NEW FRONTIER OF SKIN CARE
PHYTOMER PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY GB SIMPLE 12 2014_emotion spa 19/12/2014 10:59 Page1
TREATMENT CHALLENGES OVERCOME
Exilis wAs voTEd ThE BEsT skiN TighTENiNg PRoducT iN ThE usA.
fACiAL REjuVENAtiON
Before After two treatments
BTL-Vanquish+Elite_advertisement_A4_SA_v2.indd 1 3.3.2014 14:44:52
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
51
Fractious flare-upsThe term eczema encompasses a group of medical conditions that cause the skin to become inflamed or irritated. This troublesome and unsightly disorder requires special care.
To the max Epi-max is a highly effective, carefully formulated emollient cream.
Because it is not an aqueous cream, Epi-max locks moisture in the skin
and prevents it from evaporating. Tested by dermatologists, Epi-Max is
hypo-allergenic, perfume-free and not tested on animals.
011 545 9300
Dramatic creamRégimA’s Ultralite
Therapeutic Massage has
been seen clinically to have
a dramatic effect on eczema.
It combines the highly
moisturising ingredients
of phospholipids, jojoba,
marigold and sorbitan,
which have antiseptic, anti-
bacterial, anti-inflammatory
and anti-irritant properties.
011 615 2869
Rich formulaWith its rich hydrating
blend of natural waxes
and glycerol, DermaFix
Moisturiser Rx will enhance
the principal lipids in
the stratum corneum –
ceramides, cholesterol,
and free fatty acids. The
moisturiser’s occlusive
ingredients have been shown
to reduce water loss by 98%.
0861 28 23 23
product focus – eczema
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
52 product focus – eczema
Vitamin powerJuliette Armand’s Multi-B Vitamins
Serum contains Vitamins B5 and B6
for a powerful anti-inflammatory and
anti-irritant action. The B5 Vitamin
increases skin hydration by preventing
intradermal moisture loss. It accelerates
the healing of injuries and reduces skin
irritations and erythema.
011 033 0500
Specific rangePevonia’s RS2 range was specially
developed to treat eczema. The
range comprises a cleanser, lotion,
concentrate and cream. Ingredients
include green tea, which helps the
healing process, while French rose,
chamomile and liquorice extract
calm redness, desensitise and have a
vaso-constricting and cooling effect.
011 238 7080
Soothe awayDoctor Babor Neuro Sensitive
Cellular has an anti-irritant
effect, soothes itching and
feelings of tightness, while
restoring the hydrolipid mantle
that protects the skin. It does
not contain any ingredients
that could upset the skin’s
balance and it can even be used
during symptom-free periods
in the case of neurodermatitis,
psoriasis or eczema.
011 467 0110
53 product focus – eczema
Active cocktailDr Gobac Starter
Cream has shown an
improvement on skin
suffering from eczema
due to its cocktail of
active ingredients that
work synergistically
to nurture and protect
the skin. At the same
time the cocktail
stimulates the skin’s own
rejuvenation and repair
mechanisms.
011 314 9222
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
Clear awayAtopiclair is a new step in the management
of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis that
reduces the need for steroids. It has the anti-
inflammatory properties of glycyrrhetinic acid,
derived from liquorice root and provides calming
effects on the skin comparable to a cortico
steroid, without the side effects.
011 545 9300
The proof is in the pudding. Don’t just take our word for it, request your FREE eyeSlices® sample today!
eye opening results!
Photographs with compliments of
Waste Away Salon
AFTER
AFTER
BEFORE
BEFORE
After 1 use of 5 minutes
After 1 use of 5 minutes
You and eyeSlices® – Doing life together www.eyeslices.com
A hydration metre measuring the before and after hydration levels in the skin post the use of eyeSlices®, shows an average increase of:
25% - 50% instant hydration to the skin within 5 minutes of use.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
55 micro needling
Micro needling is built on
exactly the same concept of
using your body and skin’s
own intrinsic way of healing
itself to treat myriad skin
conditions and needs.
So says Gunther Dippenaar, managing
director and senior aesthetic therapist of
Sprout Medical Aesthetics. “The reason
I like to recommend micro needling to
clients is because it is a viable alternative
to plastic surgery. When combined with
other therapies, such as laser skin renewal,
or resurfacing, it can yield similar results,
without being as invasive, costly and time-
consuming as surgery.”
He points out that the micro needling
device, which consists of a number of tiny
needles, is gently worked along the surface
of the skin. “This creates a controlled
injury, which is caused at a micro level
and stimulates the skin’s inherent healing
processes. The skin realises that the old
and damaged cells cannot be repaired,
so it responds by releasing an enzyme to
remove the old and damaged cells, which
are now replaced with new collagen, elastin
and skin cells.
“The most dramatic results occur
between three and six months. Clients
are often amazed at the results they can
see from their fourth session,” explains
Dippenaar.
SafetyLate last year the DermaFix team attended
Dr Lance Setterfield’s dermal needling
workshop in order to measure the
methodology used.
Says DermaFix MD Ursula Hunt: “The
collagen induction produced by dermal
needling is now recognised as far superior
to most modalities offered in-clinic.”
The DermaFix options include the MT Microneedling
Needle Roller – a durable, high-quality precision tool,
the MT Microneedling Dermal Stamp and classic tattoo
devices for specialist procedures.
Hunt continues: “Safe practice is being aware of the
importance of blood-borne pathogens and adhering
to infection control precautions for minimising the
risk of exposure to blood or body fluids. It is vital to
reduce the risk of transmission of infection and disease
from client to client, therapist to client, and client to
therapist.
NeedlepointAn acknowledged skin rejuvenation technique, micro needling can treat a variety of conditions, including hyperpigmentation, scarring, broken capillaries and enlarged pores, writes Joanna Sterkowicz.
Pic
: Env
iro
n
The proof is in the pudding. Don’t just take our word for it, request your FREE eyeSlices® sample today!
eye opening results!
Photographs with compliments of
Waste Away Salon
AFTER
AFTER
BEFORE
BEFORE
After 1 use of 5 minutes
After 1 use of 5 minutes
You and eyeSlices® – Doing life together www.eyeslices.com
A hydration metre measuring the before and after hydration levels in the skin post the use of eyeSlices®, shows an average increase of:
25% - 50% instant hydration to the skin within 5 minutes of use.
R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
56 micro needling
“Purchasing micro needling devices
from reputable companies is advised, as,
through the Consumer Protection and
Vicarious Liability Acts, the consumer
has the power to enforce their rights in
cases of negligence.”
dermapenThe advanced skin-needling technology
of the Dermapen uses multiple needles
that vertically pierce the skin with an
automated vibrating function.
Says Genop Healthcare product
manager Glynis Watkins: “When moved
across the skin’s surface it stimulates
natural collagen reproduction, while
allowing fine channels to be created in
the skin. These can carry up to 80% more
topical nutrients, allowing for treatment
delivery deep into the skin’s fibroblasts
to feed the underlying cells in the
dermis and basal layer. This increased
absorption of active ingredients into the
skin creates stimulated repair and faster
resurfacing results.”
She notes that advanced skin-
needling promotes scar-less healing
and the deposition of normal woven
collagen, similar to fractional laser
treatments but without the side effects
and downtime.
“The Dermapen causes minimal
epidermal (skin) damage, therefore
reducing pain and discomfort, and
making it a safe and highly effective
treatment. It is even suitable for delicate
and hard-to-reach areas, such as around
the eyes, lips and nose,” concludes
Watkins.
RollersAccording to Yolandi Mestre of Exclusive
Beauty Solutions, distributor of Anesi
rollers, clinical studies have proven that
serum absorption is increased by as
much as 3000 times when applied with
a roller.
“They accomplish
the same or better
results as other
ablative treatments
by increasing the
production of collagen
with minimal damage
to the protective layer
of the skin. Rollers
are affordable and
safe, with very little
pain or discomfort,
downtime and risk
of complications,”
explains Mestre.
Not all skincare
ranges are suitable to combine with
micro-needling. Following intensive
research, Anesi has developed a set
of protocols adapted to combine
treatment with micro-needling.
Suitable Anesi treatments
are: Aqua Vital (hydration), Age
Rebellion (anti-ageing), DNA (anti-
ageing), Stem C3 (sun damage and
luminosity), Celestial Secret (Anti-
ageing with meteorite extract)
and Expression Ritual (eye and lip
treatment).
PioneerKnown as a global guru of non-
invasive skin needling, Environ
founder Dr Des Fernandes has
almost 20 years of experience in
the field. Today Environ has three
different types of needling: cosmetic
(needle length = 0.1mm), medical
(1mm – 1.5mm) and surgical (3mm).
Cosmetic needling is designed to
use daily, as part of a professionally
recommended home regime to aid
the absorption of Environ’s topically
applied, vitamin-enriched skincare
products.
Medical and surgical needling
is performed by trained skincare
professionals who work under the
supervision of a medical doctor in a
special environment. The client’s skin
needs to be prepared on Vitamins
A, C and E for at least three weeks
beforehand.
ProtocolJanine Thomson of The Skin & Body
Clinic, who runs a micro needling
course called Creating Healthy Skin,
notes that micro-needling can achieve
optimal results safely on all Fitzpatrick
Skin Types I to VI without the costs
and side effects of some ablative
modalities on the market.
Says Thomson: “Needling leads to
regenerative healing, as opposed to
cicatricial healing, as with most other
treatment modalities.
“The key to success is knowing
what you want to achieve and how
you will obtain these results. This
includes effective pre- and post-
treatments relative to the condition
you are treating. During the healing
cascade, collagenase peaks at
approximately day 14. Knowing at
what intervals to combine needling
with other modalities, like laser, IPL,
chemical peels, facials that address
corneotherapy etc, really is the trick of
the trade for optimal results.” PB
“The reason I like to recommend micro needling to clients is because it is a viable alternative to plastic surgery. When combined with other therapies, such as laser skin renewal, or resurfacing, it can yield similar results, without being as invasive, costly and time-consuming as surgery.”Gunther Dippenaar
Pic: Dermafix
Pic: Anesi
0.2mm 0.5mm
Scars a
nd S
tretc
h Marks
advanced pro
duct
penetration
1mm
Collagen
Indu
ction
MICRONEEDLERoller System
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Stockist Enquiries: 0861 28 23 23www.dermafi x.co.za
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
58 hair news
Crowning gloryTress-a-licious news from the hair front.
Jonathan Lieman (Marica Salon Specialists) with Nutree Professional’s Renato Antunes and Brazilian celebrity hairdresser, Sergio Eloy
The Amazon Liss Anti-Frizz Treatment
System from Brazilian company Nutree
Professional regenerates the hair fibre
due to the hydrolysed keratin and
antioxidant properties of acai and
cocoa. These penetrate the cuticle,
rebuilding its structure, hydrating and
restoring damaged hair.
011 608-3153/54
Scalp sense
Honeyed hair
Fighting the frizz
Andjo Silicone Serum is a unique blend
of silicones that boosts the natural
shine of hair and hair extensions
without weighing hair down. Ideal for
daily use on human hair, Remy, Brazilian
hair weaves, wigs or extensions, either
on wet or dry hair, its lightweight
formula gives hair an oil-free, silky-sleek
finish.
011 326 3813
From Toni&Guy comes
the label.m Honey & Oat
Shampoo, which delivers
effective conditioning without
heaviness. It contains honey,
oat extracts, sea algae and
sea cabbage to remoisturise
the hair. Label.m’s exclusive
Enviroshield Complex actively
protects hair against heat
styling and UV rays.
021 448 8740
Scalp Magic Kit is a comprehensive
professional treatment kit that addresses
dry, itchy, flaky and dandruff prone scalp.
It sheds away old layers and removes
impurities from the hair follicles and
scalp. The unique formula is full of
antioxidant-rich argan oil, black castor oil
and essential oils of lavender, tea tree and
peppermint.
072 710 5279
Smart silicones
Smart silicones
Retreat to the peaceful harmony of nature.
Serene. Reflective. Lighthearted.
NEW Shades!
CND™ SHELLAC™
Brand 14+ Day Nail Color
VINYLUX™
Weekly Polish
CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc.©2014 Creative Nail Design, Inc.
Retreat to the peaceful harmony of nature.
Serene. Reflective. Lighthearted.
NEW Shades!
CND™ SHELLAC™
Brand 14+ Day Nail Color
VINYLUX™
Weekly Polish
CND, SHELLAC, VINYLUX and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc.©2014 Creative Nail Design, Inc.
Tel: +27 86 112 6374or +27 11 791 4027www.exclusivebeauty.co.zaorders@exclusivebeauty.co.za
AUTHORIZEDDISTRIBUTOR
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
60 nails
Thanks to technological
advances, nail stylists
have a vast selection
of nail art materials,
techniques and methods
to choose from, offering you the
opportunity to experiment, explore your
artistic freedom and create designs that
will set your nail art services apart from
the rest.
It’s not just about creating way out,
wild designs that are sure to attract
attention; designs can also be subtle
and classy. In fact, they can be whatever
you want them to be. Nails have become
an important fashion accessory and
the perfect canvas to translate fashion
into fine works of art, dressing them in
the latest trends to complement and
enhance a particular style.
If you don’t think that you have the
creative flare or talent for nail art, why
not just give it a try and start with some
very basic techniques, slowly inventing
and creating new looks and intricate
effects as you become accustomed
to the different techniques. Once you
have put your skills to the test and feel
comfortable with your abilities, move on
to more advanced techniques and you
will be amazed at what you can achieve.
Basic designs can be created with
nail enamel, using two or even three
different shades to create a colour block
effect and dividing them with silver or
gold striping tape. Rhinestones, pearls
and studs can also be used to create
even simpler designs that don’t really
require much artistic skill but are great
for adding a little glitz and glamour
to your client’s nails. These can be
secured in the nail enamel or even
set inside acrylic or gel.
Many distributors of nail art
products offer nail art courses
that can assist you to get started
and learn the basics. There are
also plenty of step-by-step video
tutorials on the internet and
magazines, which provide you with
in-depth guides to nail art and how
to achieve a particular design and
look.
latest trends Each new year is accompanied by
new nail trends, colours, textures,
shapes and styles. While some
styles are forgotten, others are
taken to new levels. The inspiration
behind many of these designs
comes from the latest fashions
seen on the catwalks, which is why
it is so important for nail salons
and technicians to keep up to date
with the latest trends, which are
being demanded by women and
sometimes men.
Let’s look at some of the latest
trends and nail art designs that
have been spotted on the runways
for this year. Nail art seems to have
shifted into a different direction,
taking on a more sophisticated
look, from subtle barely there
designs – like the side swipes seen
at Prabal Gurung, with fine lines
lightly feathered across a nude
With fashion setting the latest trends for nails, from colour to shape and design, nail art is like haute couture for your nails, writes Sonette van Rensburg.
Fashion at yourfingertips
All pics courtesy CND Look Book
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
nails
61
nail – to more bright and bold, but
beautiful, flower power designs,
which models wore at Desigual.
A very popular look for
the season is the half-finished
manicure, which looks something
like distressed wood. A look that is
definitely not so cool is having half-
finished nail art on your nails when
you are meant to be one of the
sexiest men on the planet. Brad Pitt
was spotted recently with a strange
zigzag pattern on a few of his nails,
while handing over an award at the
Palm Springs International Film
Festival.
Each new year is accompanied by new nail trends, colours, textures, shapes and styles. While some styles are forgotten, others are
taken to new levels. R
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
nails
62
Where fashion meets art Jan Arnold, co-founder and style
director for CND, is well known for
her collaboration with designers
when it comes to styling nails for top
international fashion shows, heading up
an elite team of ‘artisans’. Arnold states
that new technology and elevated
thinking has taken ordinary nail art to
fine art. She maintains that nail art has
a connotation of humour and frivolity,
but that the new standard is precious,
calculated and architecturally refined.
In London, Arnold and her team
worked with award-winning designer
Michael van der Ham, whose fabric
is a study in couturier creativity and
old world craftsmanship. Van der Ham
understood the need for ‘painterly’
nails to enhance the effect of intricate
weaves of breathtakingly beautiful
patterns cut into day dresses. In New
York there was a collection of both
theatrical and wearable avant garde
designs, with futuristic references and
nails as precious jewels from another
universe.
TechniquesSome of the techniques in use have been
around for many years and are very
effective in creating beautiful works
of art. Nail art designs can be created
with the most unexpected of materials,
incorporating items with one another
like buttons, studs, and tape. Different
coloured nail enamels, acrylic paints,
glitters, rhinestones, coloured polymer
powders and gels can all contribute to
create amazing designs.
• Polishes – nail polish is one of the
most commonly used products with nail art
stylists, who have found so many ways to
create wonderful designs and effects.
• Timeless classic – the French manicure is
still one of the most classic and requested
services within manicures, pedicures
and nail enhancements. This look is
not just about using the classic white
and pink or beige colours; it can also
offer variations in shape and colour.
A look that presents itself on the
runways year in and year out in a
variety of colour combinations, and
which was perfectly showcased
at Sophie Thealett, is a two-
toned pastel French mani, which
complemented the classic flowing
pieces. Then there were the
gorgeous geometric diamond
designs in crisp white shown at
Azede Jean-Pierre.
• Marbling – a very effective
technique done with nail
enamel and a marbling tool
was worn by models at the
Degen show. Two or more
colours are applied to the nail
and gently swirled around and
mixed into one another to create
a beautiful unique marbled
effect. The design is never the
The first step is to get to know your client, their likes and dislikes, favourite colours, hobbies and career. Nail art should suit your client’s personality, style and fashion preference. These elements can be pulled together to create a custom design for a client. For those who are a little reluctant, introduce them to the idea of nail art gradually or else they could just end up feeling uncomfortable
wearing it and may never want to try it again. Let your clients be a part of discovering a
whole new dimension in nail art. Use their ideas
as inspiration for your creations. The internet
is also a great place to do some research, see
what’s trending and what top nail stylists are
up to. Create a portfolio of your work with
photographs or on actual nail tips, which can
be showcased in a box frame and shown to
your clients.
It can sometimes be a bit of a challenge to get your clients to take the plunge and wear nail art. How do you address this?
Turning clients onto nail art
Nail art designs can be created with the most unexpected of materials, incorporating items
with one another like buttons, studs, and tape. Different coloured nail enamels, acrylic paints,
glitters, rhinestones, coloured polymer powders and gels can all contribute
to create amazing designs.
63
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
nails
Leading Nail Care
same and can range from covering the entire nail to
only parts of it.
• Sponging– this technique can be applied with nail
enamels or acrylic paint. A base colour is applied to
the nail and then a second, or even third, colour is
sponged lightly over the surface to create a sponge
effect. This is very effective, especially when using
metallic colours.
• One stroke – water based acrylic paints can be
used to create elaborate hand painted designs.
The designs can be as simple as a few flowers or as
detailed as a landscape. For some extra sparkle, add
some glitter dust, foil or even bits of fabric and lace.
This technique is great for creating a layered effect
that can bring a design to life.
• 3D – creating nail art with enhancement products
such as liquid and powders, gels and even silk,
allows the nail stylist the opportunity to really
unleash their artistic flair and experiment on more
adventurous clients. Designs can range from very
basic to outrageous, some of which are definitely not
wearable and created specifically for photo shoots,
competitions or shows. These same designs can be
scaled down, making it possible to create the same
3D look that is wearable. The techniques are very
skilful, need a lot of time and patience, and must be
performed by a very experienced nail stylist. Additives
are still ever popular and a great way to bring colour
to your clients. CND offers an eye-opening collection
of pure pigments and lustrous effects, the additives
can be blended into sculpting powder or gel. This
breed of nail artistry brings together an array of
cosmetic grade pure pigments and effects for nails
in versatile dramatic colours, along with couture
effects.
There are many more amazing and exciting techniques
that can be explored and tried. With products and
techniques having evolved tremendously over the
years, there are no limitations to what you can
achieve, there is something to suit everyone’s
taste.
So why not move away from applying the
same old single shades on your client’s nails that
they so love to wear week in and week out, and try
something a little different for a change. If you have
never tried a little nail art and put your creativity to the
test, now is your opportunity to add a new dimension to
your nail business. PB
Sonette van Rensberg has been in the nail and beauty industry for 25 years. She consults with salons, spas and training salon professionals in all aspects of nail and beauty technology, basic salon skills, client relations and perfecting technical skills. email: sonettevr@gmail.com or tel: 076 585 4191
64 product news
In the marketOur round-up of newly launched products, innovations and devices.
Gentle cleanserDMK’s Milky Clean &
Pure is a milk-based
cleanser recommended
for reactive skin types.
It cleanses the skin
without the need for
harsh abrasive granules
and scrubbing, and
is ideal for delicate
skins. Milky Clean
& Pure is lauryl-,
laureth sulphate-,
artificial colorant- and
paraben-free.
011 262 6120
Primed and readyMUD Primer is the solution to
preparing the skin for make-up
application and lastability. This
silicon-based face primer was
designed to be used i n multiple
ways. You can prep the skin to
create a smooth surface or you
can mix it with MUD
foundations to create
a sheer coverage.
084 956 5285
New RF technologyThe Dermatrix device adopts non-invasive
fractional RF (radiofrequency) technology
that delivers heat energy deep into the
subcutaneous layers to regenerate collagen,
restore skin firmness and improve skin texture,
producing the maximum dermal effects, while
minimising the damage to the epidermis.
011 794 8252/3
In full viewWith the Anesi SkinView
device the therapist can have
a complete diagnosis of the
client’s skin in less than 10
minutes, with pictures and
graphics to compare with
the average population of
women in that age range. It
recommends the best Anesi
treatments based on its
results.
011 791 4027
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
65 product news
Biphasic deliveryThe Booster Elixir Serum range from Six was developed
to comprehensively treat the significant signs of skin
ageing. Its biphasic gel delivery system transports the
specially developed active ingredients to the parts of the
skin where they are needed most.
011 312 7840
Regenerating elixir Thalgo’s Prodige Des Océans is an elixir
comprising 61 regenerating nutrients. The
formulation includes 15 minerals, seven
vitamins, 14 fatty acids, three glucides,
21 amino acids and one phytonutrient. It
makes the skin regain its original vitality and
radiance.
011 880 3850 r
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
66 product news
Fantasy polishMorgan Taylor Professional Nail Lacquer has launched its
Enchantment Collection 2015 – a limited edition palette
of six majestic hues. Clients will be mesmerised by six
whimsical shades – Hocus Pocus, Who-Dini, I’m the Good
Witch, Magician’s Assistant, Now You See Me, and Simply
Spellbound.
011 447 0659
Stable retinolAppropriate for all skin
types, especially normal
to oily, Scinderm’s
Medical Retinol 20 Cream
is free of fragrances,
preservatives and
surfactants. Micro-
encapsulation significantly
enhances the stability of
retinol by isolating the
molecule in the core of
a microscopic acrylic
matrix, protecting it from
light and oxygen.
011 486 4542
Potent trioDermalogica has announced the
launch of the PowerBright TRx
system, consisting of three highly
active products that incorporate
the newest technology in skin
brightening. The range replaces
ChromaWhite TRx, and represents
a streamlined approach to treating
hyperpigmentation.
011 268 0018
Everlasting beautyThe Forever Beautiful range by Infinity Skincare includes
PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica, which encourages stem
cell protection and Perfection Peptide P3 to induce
biomimetic peeling. Ameliox combats wrinkles and
glycation, Lipobelle Soyaglycone is for lifting, with
Delentigo the age spot solution.
076 240 3719
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Included:
590nm 22cm² - Worlds largest hairremoval applicator for large areas
610nm 5cm² - Hair removal for allskin types
515nm 1cm² - photo rejuvenation,treats light vascular and lightpigmented lesions, telangiectasias, rosacea and spider veins
A special RF skin tightening applicator
Revolution in age-reversal usingnanocurrenttechnology
Re-energizes cells inthe face and body
The feeling of a VIP facial treatment
No needles, no pain, no chemicals
Immediate results and long lasting effects
Unique patent pending vacuum delivery system
Measures vacuum level to skin, 20 times a second and makes minoradjustments to protectthe skin from damage
On screen training videos & help
User adjustable vacuum and various sized real diamond tips for different treatment options
Large touch screen display
Easy to operate
Advanced cooling system
Easy maintenance
Applicator spot sizes from 1cm² to 22cm²
Also effective on lightcoloured hair
www.sonicmedical.co.za+27 82 905 3438
Launch price
R72,000.00
Includes:
Electric Sterilizer tank
Full set of Diamond heads
Launch price
R69,600.00
Launch price
R220,000.00
Optional Extras:Nd: YAG laser attachment for treating: pigmented skin, spider veins, fungal toe nails, stubborn hair and Tattoo removal. R46,000
Professional heavy duty stand on wheels specially designed for the zeolite. R4,500
IPL/RF Machine
To become a City & Guilds approved centre, contact us on
City & Guilds is proud to present the new beauty qualifications for South Africa, developed for
industry by industry.
To find out more about these qualifications, how to recognise prior learning and
become a City & Guilds Approved Centre, email info@cityandguilds.co.za
or telephone 011 544 4660
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
68 medical aesthetics
68
Retinol is known for its
versatility and can be
used to address many
skincare concerns
i n c l u d i n g
photo-ageing, coarse
texture, enlarged pores and
acne scaring.
“Vitamin A is known as
the ‘normalising’ vitamin,”
says Sonette Donker from
Skin iD. “Any skin type or skin
condition can benefit from vitamin
A, it just depends on the product
formula and the form of vitamin A
used, ie. retinyl palmitate, retinol or
retinoic acid. Vitamin A is mostly used
to treat acne, hyperpigmentation and
ageing.”
Retinol is derived from the
compound retinoid, which is a
derivative of vitamin A, and it
has been used by doctors and
dermatologists for the last century,
both orally and topically, to treat a
broad spectrum of dermatological
conditions.
Donker continues; “Retinol is
the fat-soluble, or alcohol, form of
vitamin A and it can cause irritation
on some skins. Retinyl palmitate, on
the other hand, is the least aggressive
form of vitamin A, making it more
suitable for delicate, sensitive skins.
Retinol, however, stimulates collagen
synthesis within hours compared to
retinyl palmitate, which takes days to
do so.”
Ursula Hunt, the founder of
DermaFix, elaborates: “Retinyl
palmitate is an ester or chemical
compound formed from the reaction
of retinol and palmitic acid, and is
commonly used as an anti-oxidant in
cosmetic products.”
diverse moleculeRetinol is a very diverse and
dynamic molecule according to
the team at optiphi.
“When combined
with other active
ingredients, retinol can
be used to effectively
treat a number of
d e r m a t o l o g i c a l
conditions, such as
inflammatory skin
disorders, skin cancers
and photo-ageing.”
The optiphi team
says that the daily application of a
retinol product on a normal, healthy
skin will have a preventative action,
as it will boost the skin’s immunity by
ensuring the skin is always functioning
optimally.
Potential side effectsDonker says that retinol can cause
the skin to become dry with visible
redness. “This normally happens within
two weeks of use,” she continues. “The
best is to push past the two weeks, as
Results withretINolIf you are serious about delivering dramatic results in your skincare clinic or aesthetic practice, retinol is an ingredient that you cannot be without, writes Karen Ellithorne.
online at www.probeauty.co.za Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015
69 medical aesthetics
your skin will start to look
amazing. If the skin is very
sensitive it is recommended
to use retinyl palmitate.
Normally retinyl palmitate
is 100% safe to use on even
the most sensitive skins, as it has no
side effects.”
The optiphi team adds: “Retinol
exfoliates your skin from the inside
out, and, during the process, your
skin can become extra-sensitive. It’s
advisable to start with small amounts
of the product, while building up a
tolerance for the active ingredients.
We caution against using the retinol
directly on the eyelids, but encourage
very careful use under the eyes.”
Hunt suggests that clients stay out
of the sun and wear sunscreen (SPF45
or higher) together with protective
clothing. Retinol products should be
used exactly as prescribed on the
package label.
Lastly, Hunt advises using a
moisturiser along with the topical
application of retinol, to prevent the
skin from drying out.
Regenerating propertiesClaudeen Krause, the educator for
Mesoestetic in South Africa, says
that vitamin A is well known for its
regenerating properties. She refers
to studies done by Varini et.al,
2000, (The Society for Investigative
Dermatology) that have proven a
significant increase in fibroblasts
in the skin after topical retinol use
and a significant decrease in
collagenase, the enzyme
responsible for collagen
breakdown.
Krause always suggests
applying Mesoestetic
Cosmeretin on the skin
during professional treatment
protocols. “Cosmeretin is
Mesoetetic’s retinol in sterile
ampoule form. It is suitable
for mesotherapy and for use
with any trans dermal delivery
systems/machines. It is 0,001%
strength, which may appear
weak, however the formulation
allows for maximum
penetration,” she explains.
Healthy doseDermaFix’s vitamin A
Propionate supplies your skin
with a healthy dose of vitamin
A, helping with vitalisation
of the skin and improving
the appearance of wrinkles
and hyperpigmentation, with actinic
keratosis reducing to zero after 48
weeks. This lightweight formula is
ideal for all skin types, including dry,
sensitive and acne.
Dr Babor Derma Cellular Ultimate
A16 Booster Concentrate promises
your client’s skin a fresh, and fast
‘reboot’.
“With Retinew A16 we have
raised the bar,” explains Andrea
Weber, who heads the research and
innovation centre at Babor. “In the
new product that contains Retinew
A16, the concentrate is 16 times more
concentrated than vitamin A. Retinew
A16 is a protein fraction extracted
from the seeds of the moth bean. The
ingredient speeds up skin renewal by
activating the skin’s growth factors
as well as the fibroblasts, which
produce collagen. At the same
time, it stimulates the keratinocytes
that are responsible for epidermal
regeneration.”
Babor’s Derma Cellular
Detoxifying Vitamin Cream SPF 15
also contains Retinew A16 and high-
dose vitamins C and E to strengthen
the skin’s immune defence system
and improve the skin’s natural ability
to protect itself against UV rays.
Pevonia Spa Clinica’s Micro-
Retinol product includes highly
active ingredients of retinol,
collagen and elastin, vitamins C and
E and hyaluronic acid to stimulate
cellular growth and speed up cell
turnover. PB
With more than 20 years of experience in her field, Karen Ellithorne is the owner of Spa and Salon Solutions. She is well connected within the aesthetic arena and has been responsible for organising the Medical Aesthetics Conventions for the past six years. Email: karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za
ResuLTs
The known effects that a customer will experience from a retinol product are:
• Markedincreaseinepidermalcell turnover, resulting in smoother, plumper, more radiant skin.
• Improvedcirculation,reducinga sallow appearance on the skin and giving it a healthy glow.
• Decreasedmelaninsynthesis,which will even out and unify the skin tone and can improve actinic keratosis.
• Collagenproductionwillbe stimulated, therefore compacting and firming the skin.
• Anoticeablereductioninfinelines, wrinkles and expression lines.
Source: Ursula Hunt of DermaFix
Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
70 saahsp
Cidesco Section South Africa Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
Representatives from CIDESCO’s South Africa Section attended the international CIDESCO congress, which took place in Athens, Greece, in October.
SA delegation at CIDESCO Congress
As the host for the 2015
CIDESCO World Congress
and Exhibition, South Africa
took the opportunity offered by
the congress in Greece to connect
with colleagues, friends and new
acquaintances to encourage
attendance for this year’s event.
For the past 62 years, CIDESCO
has hosted global congresses all
over the world. Attendees of the
2014 congress in Greece report that
it was a well-run and informative
event, offering valuable insight on a
number of key topics. The programme
provided a hands-on approach, with
demonstrations of various massage
techniques from around the world,
as well as specialised make-up
applications. It also looked at a variety
of treatment protocols and highlighted
the latest advancements in therapy
and skincare technology. Speakers
from all over the world shared their
expertise and knowledge.
South African representatives
Helene Bramwell (honorary CIDESCO
president and CIDESCO gold medallist)
and Karen Ellithorne (somatologist/
medical aesthetic seminar organiser)
were invited to talk on: ‘Aesthetics of
yesterday, today, tomorrow’.
Bramwell and Ellithorne focused
on the ever-changing nature of our
industry and the importance of keeping
up to date, particularly in line with a
more educated consumer. They looked
at how the South African industry has
South Africa will host the 63rd
CIDESCO World Congress
& Exhibition of Aesthetics,
Spa, Health and Beauty at the
Sandton Convention Centre in
Johannesburg from May 23 to 25,
2015.
The theme of this year’s
conference is: ‘Skin is Alive’ with
an emphasis on the important
therapeutic role therapists play
working beyond the epidermis,
looking at the science behind
current skincare practices. It will
provide practical knowledge
and insight, covering topics
such as skin peeling, hormonal
influences, light therapies, pH
imbalances and the latest anti-
ageing technologies.
evolved, and how certain synergies
are forming between doctor and
therapist. Bramwell and Ellithorne
maintained that the therapist needs
to remember that their role is central
to all medical professions, and, as
such, must remain connected and
informed about what is happening in
an expanding industry. This lecture
was well received and resulted in
lengthy discussions with delegates
and training institutions from other
countries.
Exchanging flags As part of being selected to host
the CIDESCO World Congress next
year, Bramwell and fellow South
African representative Menna Kleine
were invited on stage to exchange
flags with outgoing host, Greece.
The face of Mandela on the South
African flag was a huge hit, causing
great excitement in the audience.
In addition, South Africa
presented the CIDESCO inter-
national president, Anna-Cari
Gund, and the CIDESCO president
of Greece, Iro Koroneau, with
authentically crafted CIDESCO
friendship cups – a token that they
What to expect at the 2015 Congress in SA
Helene Bramwell, honorary CIDESCO president (South Africa), Dianne Miles, honorary CIDESCO member(Australia), Kyriacos Poupoutsis, honorary CIDESCO president (Cyprus) and Fanie Poupoutsis, CIDESCO president (Cyprus)
hope will become a tradition for years
to come.
Tel: 011 675 6518, Fax: 086 588 0973, Postal address: Postnet Suite 236, Private Bag X1, Cresta
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Professional Beauty Jan/Feb 2015 online at www.probeauty.co.za
business tips
72
Special offer on multiple bookings - Contact Somi Tel: 011 781 5970 • Fax: 011 781 6079 • Email: somi@probeauty.co.za
SELL YOUR spa, salon,
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