sweet dessert wine
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Sweet,But Not Just,
Dessert WineTHE NOBLE SWEET WINES FROM SAUTERNES AND BARSAC
IN BORDEAUX, FRANCE ARE NOT ONLY UNDERAPPRECIATED
FOR THEIR EXTRAORDINARY COMPLEXITY BUT ARE ALSO
MISUNDERSTOOD AS BEING LESS THAN VERSATILE!
By Curtis Marsh
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Morning dew blankets each grape in a
mould-riendly mist.
Having not partaken in a Sauternes or Barsac wine or a considerable
time, a ew months ago I ound mysel in the cellars o Chteau Coutet
in Barsac, immersed in a line-up o some 26 already lusciously inviting,
albeit decidedly youthul barrel samples o 2007 Cru Class chteaux
as well as a handul o non-classied producers. There was already
an air o high expectation at this en primeur press tasting the word
well and truly out on this spectacular sweet wine vintage. However,tasting barrels samples o any wine has to be put into perspective, as
the wines are unnished and are invariably obscured by yeasty-less
ermentation characters and high levels o ree sulphur. Moreover,
in this primary state the dening elements o provenience and
distinctive soils (terroir) are subdued. Essentially one should treat the
exercise purely to orm an impression o the vintage and subsequent
characteristics in the wines.
It is important to note that all the ollowing wines were tasted blind;
an imperative i one is to orm an objective opinion and commentary.
Frankly, scoring wines in this state is absolutely absurd however; I have
grouped the wines that I elt had particular merit. Full tastings notes
are posted on our wine website, www.asianwinejournal.com. Froman overall perspective, one can draw a comparison to the amazing
harmony o the 2005 red Bordeaux vintage the 2007 conditions
in Sauternes and Barsac were perect in every respect, engendering
exceptional quality across the board, and particularly in the lesser
ranks, where there will be some excellent price/quality rapport. The
wines exhibit pronounced perumes with marked musky, apricot,
honeyed scents indicative o high levels o Botrytis and sugar. There is
a marvellous intensity to the ruit favours and sweetness, also superb
textures, noticeably more viscous yet balanced by impressive acidity.
Such harmonious wines will no doubt be attractive in their youth but
clearly there will be wines capable o extraordinary longevity easily
20 to 30 plus years, indeed eternal or the top wines and in larger
bottle ormats.
One o natures miracles and an aberration in viticulture is apeculiar mould that transorms the otherwise tart and shy whitegrape, Semillon, to nectar o unparalleled concentration o exotic
ruits, honeyed sweetness, sumptuous richness and a creamy viscous
texture, yet with a harmonious marmalade-like piquancy, pleasant
bitterness and powerul natural acidity that imparts a perceived
dryness. The scientic or Latin name o this extraordinary ungalorganism is Botrytis Cinerea, although it is known more colloquially
as 'Noble Rot' or 'Pourriture Noble' in France. Whilst biologists and
winemakers who toil with late-harvest style wines have an intimate,
i not metaphysical knowledge o its behaviour, the genome o this
unique and naturally occurring phenomenon, there being so ew
moulds that can be considered benecial or riendly to the taste, has
yet to be ully explained and continues to ascinate scientists.
In laymans terms, the cooler autumn waters o a small tributary
river bordering Sauternes and Barsac called the Ciron, fowing into
the warmer Garonne River estuary, creates conducive misty and
humid morning conditions to awaken the Botrytis spores that have
been hibernating during the winter months. Transported throughthe air on water molecules, these spores cling to the grapes, already
approaching their ull ripeness. It only takes a single spore clinging
to a healthy grape to acilitate the spread o Botrytis throughout
the whole bunch, the ungus penetrating the grape skin and eeding
o the natural sugars beginning a process o dehydration, slowly
extracting the water within the grape, concentrating the sugars,
intensiying and preserving the ruit favours. It is an incredibly risk-
prone transormation at the mercy o the weather and devastatingly
unwelcome rain, requiring drier, warm aternoon sun to inhibit the
onset o the conversely detrimental Grey Rot, which can rapidly turn
the grapes into an unusable mush.
As the grapes take on an unsightly shrivelled, raisin-like appearance
within a web o ungal growth, expert grape pickers begin the labour-
intensive harvesting o individual berries, selecting the most Botrytis
inected grapes and leaving those requiring urther hang-time.
Needless to say, this is painstaking work as the yields are meagre,
as little as two or three glasses o wine per vine. It is here that the
inequitable disparity in the selling price and ratio to yields between
Bordeaux sweet wines and the chteau that produce red wines is
clearly, i not rustratingly, evident. Depending on the vintage, red wine
producers can be permitted up to a maximum o 50 hectolitres per
hectare (hl/ha), whereas Sauternes and Barsac producers are normally
restricted to 25 hl/ha, although in actuality the top estates in both
regards will crop signicantly lower, in Sauternes and Barsac it can
be as low as nine hl/ha, about one glass o wine per vine!
However, the harsh reality is that red Bordeaux is eminently more
popular than sweet or dry white Bordeaux or that matter, particularly
in the strategic emerging markets o Asia and subsequently refected
in the secondary market, with sweet wines simply not achieving the
exponential returns o their red peers. To add insult to injury, such is
the obsession with red Bordeaux vintage ratings that a poorly rated
year or reds does not auger well or Sauternes and Barsac, even i
the conditions are exceptional or the white grapes and the onset o
Botrytis. Take 2001 as an example, a supposedly mediocre vintage
or red Bordeaux wines (which is unjust as many 2001 wines are
delightul) but a abulous year or sweet wines, yet the stigma o the
lighter red wines imparted an overriding negative sentiment making
it a hard-sell or the chteaux in Sauternes and Barsac.
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Botrytis-inected grapes; the more wrinkledthey are, the better.
As the grapes take on an unsightly
shrivelled, raisin-like appearance within a
web o ungal growth, expert grape pickers
begin the labour-intensive harvesting
o individual berries, selecting the most
Botrytis inected grapes and leaving thoserequiring urther hang-time.
Sweet Sensations In Hong KongsVinExpo Asia PacifcA ew months later, I attended a most enlightening Sauternes and
Barsac masterclass at Vinexpo Hong Kong, chaired by Brnice
Lurton, proprietor o Chteau Climens and the new president orthe Crus Classs de Sauternes et Barsac, and conducted by Andreas
Larsson, the worlds leading sommelier. Larssons commentary brought
an inormed and objective view, his rereshing impartiality and
innovative approach to matching these wines with Asian cuisines
was inspirational, motivating me to re-evaluate my interpretation o
Sauternes and Barsac. You may have noticed I have not used the term
dessert wine at all yet.
The ormat o the tasting and the 12 careully chosen wines by Larsson,
spanning 2005 to 1978 vintages covered a broad range o distinctive
terroirs and sub-regional styles, stimulating the interaction between
Larsson and participating tasters. Much o the dialogue was centred on
ood pairings, but also on how the wines clearly had a rich rameworkyet the actual sugar sweetness had dissipated with bottle age to the
point o perceived dryness o the nish, augmented by pronounced
acidity and spiciness. What was most evident is how bottle age can
magniy the soil characters and minerals in these wines, also the huge
dierence in textures and colours between the wines.
It appeared to me, the most potential with Asian ood pairings would
be with lighter, very young wines, their lively acidity, pureness and
intensity yet subtle sweetness capable o handling spicy or relatively
warmer cuisines, although not a complete broadside o chilli. Some
o the pairings put orward encompassed universal produce but
with Asian favours; rich seaoods such as lobster, crab or scallops in
sweeter yellow curries with spices like turmeric and saron sh
curries or steamed sh where resh ginger is used, as ginger is a spice
element oten ound in these wines. In the same vein and much like
how the Germans serve their powerul Auslese Rieslings with pork,
venison, game birds, duck and poultry, Sauternes and Barsac wines
work equally well and again the sweetness in the wine will counteract
spicy warmth. One can also see many possibilities with the milder,
subtly spiced northern Indian cuisine, indeed I am experimenting with
this mysel, already with surprisingly harmonious results. One o the
most perect pairings, according to Larsson, is Peking roast duck with
a lighter Sauternes or Barsac, to which I concur, having promptly
tried it. I can see where he may have drawn his inspiration or this
adventurous pairing, using the time-honoured match o Sauternes
and oie gras, the attiness and richness o the roasted duck skin and
gamey favour o the duck breast similar to pan-ried goose liver. Itis indeed gastronomic heaven, albeit indulgent and reinorces there
are no set rules with wine and ood pairing and to be adventurous.
Imagine i this catches on and every Chinese restaurant around the
world was to endorse this, serving up a glass o Sauternes or Barsac,
it would certainly change the regions ortunes!
There is o course the natural aliation with sweet wines and dessert
but one must be careul that the dessert itsel is not too sweet as
this can oten overpower the wine. In my opinion, chocolate is notgood with Sauternes and Barsac, although white chocolate can work
as a component o a dessert. There are o course innite variables o
dessert pairings, some o the more conducive being tropical ruits,
also poached stone ruits and desserts that have vanillin or caramel
favours. However, sometimes I think Sauternes and Barsac wines have
evolved expressly or cheese, or it is here that you will achieve some
o the most harmonious pairings. The variations are as endless as
the dierent types o cheeses, made even more innite by the subtle
dierences in type or age o the wine.
But most o all, savouring Sauternes and Barsac on its own, either
beore or ater a meal is most satisying. My experience o Bordeaux
sweet wines began this way, working with French ches andrestaurateurs who would always recommend a glass o sweet wine
to open up the palate. Social occasions or Sunday lunches with them
usually began with a nicely chilled, lighter Barsac or Muscat Beaumes
de Venise.
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2000 Chteau Climens
(100 percent Semillon)
Barsac, www.chateau-climens.r
paired with ricciotti*
Passion ruit and graperuit zest to the ore, also a prominent
gooseberry Sauvignon Blanc character, very musky and Riesling like
reshness and citrus favours on the palate, tangy, citrus-orangesucculence, almost appears dry on the mid palate and bids arewell
with a warm glow o pickled ginger and bitter almond though
some rich and honeyed sweetness lurks amongst the spicy, lingering
warmth very elegant and surprisingly pleasing.
This pairing comprises a zesty, acid-driven wine complemented
by a very rereshing dessert. The favours o the champagne
sorbet are also subtle enough not to overpower the wines
elegant characters.
2003 Chteau Fillot
(60 percent Semillon, 36 percent Sauvignon Blanc,
4 percent Muscadelle,)
Sauternes, www.lhot.com
paired with champagne sorbet*
Sweet custard and vanilla pod, sherbet o citrus, dried g and
muskiness o Turkish delight dusted with icing sugar, some
butterscotch and dark cone honey nuances, roasted nuts, peppery
virgin olive oil unctuous, creamy palate entry, intense spice nutmeg, white pepper and resh ginger zingy warmth, intense
apricot and poached peach, caramelised apples with butterscotch
and nougat, very impressive acidity keeping the wine lively, very
long nish, just goes on and on great wine!
A lively wine paired with its equal match in the sweet
cheesecake dessert.
1996 Chteau Coutet
(75 percent Semillon, 23 percent Sauvignon Blanc,
2 percent Muscadelle)
Barsac, www.chateaucoutet.com
paired with brandied cherry liqueur coated in dark chocolate*
Fresh nose, perume o summer fowers, lots o citrus, noticeably
delicate white clover honey, honeydew melon and ripe mango,
sherbet-like sweetness with some candied ruits elegant andsilky palate entry, intense tangy apricot and marmalade characters
enhanced by citrus-lemony acidity, nice spice and vitality, some
caramel and nougat complexity, very elegant wine with impressive
reshness and acidity, still youthul.
Generous acidity and spices in the wine will pair well with the dark
chocolate, while the brandied cherry liqueur adds characteristic
favour to the wines exotic palate o honeydew melon and
ripe mango.
1978 Chteau Climens
(100 percent Semillon)
Barsac, www.chateau-climens.r
paired with rum balls
Wedding cake almond icing, nutty, oxidised sherry-like tones,
musky-musty complexities; beautiul sot and elegant palate entry
quickly surrenders to an awesomely powerul, intense apricot and
peach palate; a lingering background sweetness o candied ruits,drinking superbly, some chalky phenolic amongst a tangy arewell.
Brilliant wine, extraordinarily proound, at almost 30 years in bottle
and showing no signs o giving up bravo!
With quite an intense wine thats ull-bodied and sweet with
moderate acidity, the complementary pairing is one which
oers simple favours and an adequate sweetness to stand up to
the wine.
Dessert & Wine Pairings
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1997 Chteau Myrat
(88 percent Semillon, 8 percent Sauvignon Blanc,
4 percent Muscadelle)
Barsac
paired with irish cream mudpie**
Very dark amber colour, intense caramel-toee nose, golden
syrup, honeyed, giving an impression o elevated sweetness, yet
seemingly dry on palate entry almost like aged dry white Bordeaux
with hessian and straw favours, lots o spice and warmth, nutty
Olorosso sherry like characters, salty, builds in sweetness towards
the back palate becoming quite unctuous with a little chalkyphenolic grip on the arewell and intriguing interplay o dryness
and richness with a lingering distinctly wet limestone chalky
favour. Rather leteld style that would be excellent with pongy,
gooey cheese.
A heavy dessert to match a heavy wine quite a natural pairing.
Also, this desserts subtle favour will allow the wines nutty and
straw favours to come through unhindered on the palate.
1999 Chteau Latour Blanche
(80 percent Semillon, 15 percent Sauvignon Blanc,
5 percent Muscadelle)
Bommes, Sauternes (www.tour-blanche.com)
paired with champagne cake
Baked apples, hints o strawberry, soon overwhelmed by strong
apricot and lots o peaches with rich double clotted cream, golden
syrup and toee tangy, spicy palate entry, but quickly builds inrichness, intensely sweet mid-palate, crme brulee and lingering
toee, very toasty-honeyed development, also quite nutty and
oily, some bitter almond and resh ginger spice bringing a tingly
warmth, lingering intense dried apricot and tantalizing acidity,
with some earthy tones, overall quite elegant yet deceptive in its
power in richness.
For this wines moderate acidity to stand out and impress,
the dessert pairing has to have a lower acidic intensity. Here,
the almond sponge cake dipped in champagne syrup does not
overpower the wines delicious acidity.
There are o course
ininite variables o
dessert pairings, someo the more conducive
being tropical ruits,
also poached stone
ruits and desserts
that have vanillin or
caramel favours.
allphotographscourtesyofCurtis
Marsh.
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Exceptional, Must-Have Wines
Chteau Rayne-Vigneau Bommes, Sauternes
(My top wine o the tasting)
Chteau Laaurie-Peyraguey Bommes, SauternesChteau Lamothe-Guignard Sauternes
Chteau Romer-du-Hayot Fargues, Sauternes
Chteau Rieussec Fargues, Sauternes
Chteau Doisey-Vedrines Barsac
Chteau Doisey-Deane Barsac
Outstanding Wines, Purchase Without Hesitation
Chteau Bastor-Lamontange Sauternes, an unclassiedproperty whichoutclassedmany others
Chteau Romer Fargues, Sauternes
Chteau Ribaud-Promis Bommes, Sauternes
Chteau de Malle Preignac, Sauternes
Chteau Broustet Barsac
Chteau de Myrat Barsac
Chteau Caillou Barsac
1998 Chteau Suduiraut
(90 percent Semillon, 10 percent Sauvignon Blanc)
Preignac, Sauternes, www.suduiraut.com
paired with christmas ruitcake
Grilled nuts, Beauort cheese, almond-marzipan icing, reminiscent
o Hungarian Tokay a whi o salty, nutty Palo Cortado Sherry,
earthy white trufe scents syrupy apricot conserve palate
entry, mid-palate quite dry with straw and summer eld nuances,
lavender and dried rosemary, nutty, oily, build in richness towards
the back palate with toee and lingering marmalade piquancy,
sweet around the gills reminding you it is actually Sauternes.
Wonderul example o how bottle age develops an amazing array
o secondary aromas and extraordinary complexity. Savour on its
own or with a nutty, salty rm cheese.
The ull-bodied favours o both the wine and dessert are equal
matches. However, the ruitcakes low acidity allows the wines
spicy and piquant nuances to come through.
I should mention that Chteau Climens and Chteau dYquem were
not in this line-up. Disappointingly, I did not get to try the Chteau
Climens 2007. It is not only a personal avourite but is the only other
producer which challenges Chteau dYquem in absolute quality and
also with a uniqueness o its highly calcareous soils and 100 percent
Semillon cepage. Unquestionably, however, Chteau dYquem has thehigh ground in Sauternes, in every respect, as with the First Growths
in the Mdoc, largely attributed to the elevated aspect and superior
soils. My tasting notes or the Chteau dYquem 2007 Sauternes,
are as ollows: Cone honey, peaches and creamlike, a double crme
richness, subtle almond and hazelnut nuances, resplendent with
musky perume and intense apricot (tempting to dab a little behind
the ears), intriguing Indian spices like turmeric, cardamom and ennel
seed. The spice and apricot tang intensity are even more evident on
the palate, delicious tarte tatin favours the French upside-down
tart with caramelised apples layers o syrupy, glutinous peach and
apricot yet all the while elegant and seamless with tangy acidity that
keeps the wine lively throughout the palate and despite its power and
intense sweetness, in no way cloying, the tangy marmalade sweet-sourfavours carrying to a seemingly innite arewell. Awesome, proound,
irresistible and so nely balanced, it is already drinking superbly even
beore being bottled! That said, in all likeliness, it will be one o the
longest lived Chteau dYquem wines made since the legendary 1975
or 1967. CM
2001 Chteau Suduiraut
(90 percent Semillon, 10 percent Sauvignon Blanc)
Preignac, Sauternes, www.suduiraut.com
paired with rum & raisin ice cream*
Earthy and musky scents, then opening out to a hedonistic bouquet
o caramelised apples, baked bananas, butterscotch, incredibly
alluring with rich, honeyed, golden syrup, very expressive
gorgeous creamy, syrupy, peachy palate entry although quickly
turns tangy with intense dried apricot and vigorous acidity
balancing or even cancelling out any sweetness, lingering tanginess
with a tingling spiciness and warmth. Fabulous wine, noticeably
more powerul in the line-up and a step up in quality.
It is important that the wines sweetness either matches or exceeds
the desserts sugar quotient. Thus, this intensely saccharine ice
cream will be an adequate match or the powerul caramel favours
o this wine.
New Zealander Curtis Marsh is known to many as
The Wandering Palate who believes that a meal
without wine could only be breakast! To read
more o Marshs wine and travel articles, click on to
www.thewanderingpalate.com, where he shares a
selection o his many journalistic exploits.
* Desserts rom Ricciotti (Singapore)
** Dessert rom NYDC (Bugis Junction, Singapore)
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