the cheese stands alone

Department of Food Science and Technology

The Cheese Stands Alone: The Science Behind Oregon’s Acclaimed Artisan

Cheeses

Lisbeth Goddik, Ph.D.

OSU Extension Dairy Processing Specialist

ODI-Bodyfelt Professor

Department of Food Science and Technology

Presentation Overview

• Presentation– How to make cheese– History of cheese– Oregon cheese– OSU cheese

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http://www.wisdairy.com/upload/statistics/lg_us_cheese_consumption_projected_82_17.jpg

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Per Capita Cheese Consumption

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Per Capita Consumption

0.00

5.00

10.00

15.00

1970 1990 2010

Year

Lb

s

Cheddar

Mozzarella

Swiss

Cream/Neuf

Processed

Total others

Queso Fresco

BlueSource: USDA

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Cheese production

Cheese making is an art

Cheese making is the combined application of microbiology,

biochemistry, chemistry, and engineering that exploits natural

properties of milk proteins

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Cheese making

MilkFermentation starter

culturesCoagulation chymosin

enzymeConcentration (10X) cut & cookRipening

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Production of Mont d’OR

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Cheese is clean

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The miracle of cheese

• References to cheese making go back more than 6000 years.

• Cheese and wine were common methods for preserving food.

• How did they do it?

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The miracle of cheese

• Native Lactic acid bacteria in raw milk

• Water tight containers = only natural source of rennet

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http://www.bibleorigins.net/Sumer_Map.jpg

Ancient cheese: sour & salty

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4000 BC

• Mongolian and other nomads transported milk within stomachs (only moisture proof container) and the milk soured and

curdled.

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History of cheese - Egypt

www.touregypt.net

2000 BC, cheese making depicted on tomb murals. Priests guarded production secret. Cheese reserved for elite

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Written documentation

Old Testament: David consumes Cheese of Kine (cow) (1500BC)http://www.ilovecheese.co.uk/HistoryOfCheese.html

Homer: Cyclops Polyphemus,: whose baskets were “always full of cheese, even in the coldest winter. (800 BC)

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We soon reached his cave, but he was out shepherding, so we went inside and took stock of all that we could see. His cheese-racks were loaded with cheeses, and he had more lambs

and kids than his pens could hold...When he had so done he sat down and milked his ewes and goats, all in due course, and then

let each of them have her own young. He curdled half the milk and set it aside in wicker

strainers

Odyssey by Homer

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Roman Empire• Romans transformed

cheese into a food for the general people

• The Roman army brought cheese and cheese making skills to Europe including England.

• >13 cheese recipes – developed cheese press

• http://www.metro.ca/conseil-expert/fromager/histoire-fromage.en.htmlwww.dkimages.com

Roman cheese grader

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Romans – master engineers

Columella’s De Re Rustica (~65 BC).

Description of Roman agriculture and food.

• cheesemaking process involving rennet coagulation, pressing of the curd, salting, and aging.

http://www.hcs.ohio-state.edu/hort/history/018.html

3rd century Roman cheese press found in

England

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Why so many cheeses?

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AOCPDO(Protected Designation ofOrigin)

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Cooked pressed cheeses

Emmental, Comté, Beaufort, Gruyere: Traditional mountain cheeses. Farmers combined their herds at summer pastures in the mountains of the Alps and Jura. Had enough milk to produce large cheeses. Needed to make cheeses with long shelf life because it took a long time to get the cheeses down from the mountains and to market

Fruit of the mountains: produced at fruitieres: Comté produced at close to 200 fruitieres in Franche Comté. Must be made with milk from Montbeliard cow

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Non-cooked pressed cheeses

Frequently named from the Abbeys which originally produced them: Chambarand, Port-du-salut, Abondance

The Morbier: From the Jura mountain region. Traditionally during winter the cows came down from mountain pastures. Each farmer looked after his own cows. The farmer obtained less milk and this created the need for a smaller cheese. After making cheese curd in the morning, the curd was covered in ash to keep it from spoiling until the evening. The milk obtained from the evening milking was transformed into curd and combined with the morning curd. The ash created a dark line within the cheese.

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The Camembert was developed during the French revolution by a Normandy farmer, Marie Harel. She was hiding a priest who taught her how to make brie style cheeses. By the end of the 18th century Napoleon the III discovered the cheese while traveling in Normandy which he named Camembert.

Cheeses from the warmer French low-land were easily brought to market. Individual farmers produced their own cheeses. Thus these cheeses were much smaller and could be sold quickly. These cheeses were therefore made with a mold that accelerates ripening.

Bloomy rind cheeses

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Department of Food Science and Technology

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Dairy cows in Oregon

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

1985 1990 1995 2000 2005

Co

ws

(x 1

000)

Milk production in Oregon

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

1985 1990 1995 2000 2005

lbs

(x 1

,000

,000

)Approximately 350

commercial bovine dairy farms

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Alpenrose, Darigold, Larsen’s Creamery, Sunshine Dairy Foods, Columbia, Yocream, Safeway, Kroger, Eberhard

Tillamook

Farmers Coop

Mallorie’s

Deluxe Ice Cream

Lochmead Dairy

Oregon Ice Cream

Springfield

Umpqua

Valley Crest

Darigold

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Oregon Dairy Companies Plants closed since 1999

Plants opened since 1999

Alpenrose, Darigold, Deluxe Ice Cream, Eberhard’s, Farmers COOP, Kroger, Lochmead, Larsen’s, Oregon Ice Cream, Valley Crest Foods, Safeway, Sunshine, Springfield, Tillamook, Umpqua, YoCream

Raven Creamery, Curly’s Dairy, Bandon Cheese, Valley of the Rogue Dairy, Echo Spring Dairy

Columbia River Proc.

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# of dairy plants in Oregon

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Noris, Silver Falls,, Juniper Grove, Tumalo

Briar Rose Jacobs Creamery

Goldin Artisan

Fairview Farm

Willamette V.C.

Ancient Heritage

Ochoa-Albany

River’s Edge

Alsea Acre

Fraga Farm

Ochoa

Fern’s Edge

La Mariposa

Siskiyou Crest

Pholia Farm

Rogue Creamery

New Moon

Mama Terra Micro Creamery Oa Oak Leaf

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Terminology

•Artisan cheese or artisan dairy

•Farmstead dairy

•Specialty cheese

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Artisan Farmstead

Cow Ochoa Cheese, Rogue Creamery,Mariposa, Jacobs, Oak Leaf

Noris Dairy, Willamette Valley Cheese

GoatAlsea Acre, Fern’s Edge, Fraga Farm, Juniper Grove, New Moon, Pholia Farm, River’s Edge, Silver Falls Creamery, Siskiyou Crest, Tumalo Farms, Fairview, Goldin, Mama Terra, Briar Rose

Sheep Ancient Heritage,

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Oregon’s Cheeses

2010: world championship: Tillamook best medium cheddar2009: American Cheese Society: Rogue River Blue: Best in Show2009: World Cheese Awards (UK): River’s Edge 2nd best mold ripened goat cheese.2008: World Cheese Competition: Tumalo Classico, 2nd Best Cheese: Best placement of a goat milk cheese ever .Numerous other honors and first places.

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Oregon Milk Quality

3rd best in nation

(USDA 2006 SCC statistics - after Rhode Island and Montana)

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OSU dairy pilot plant - before

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OSU cheese equipment- before

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OSU cheese equipment- 2009

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OSU dairy pilot plant - 2009

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Dairy processing class 2009

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3 phase project

• Training pilot plant: Purchase equipment, renovate Withycombe.

• Incubator plant: Upgrade equipment, license Withycombe.

• Independent Cheese Pilot Plant – connected with dairy farm: OSU cheese.

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The Past & The Future

Beaver Believer

Department of Food Science and Technology

Lisbeth Goddik541 737 8322Lisbeth.goddik@oregonstate.edu