an ecosystem to experience yellowstone and...

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YELLOWSTONE REGIONALAIRPORT

BILLINGS LOGANINTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

RIVERTON REGIONALAIRPORT

WORLAND MUNICIPALAIRPORT

ROCK SPRINGSSWEETWATER COUNTYAIRPORT

POCATELLOREGIONAL

AIRPORT

IDAHO FALLSREGIONAL AIRPORT

JACKSON HOLEAIRPORT

BERT MOONEYAIRPORT

GALLATINFIELD AIRPORT

YELLOWSTONE AIRPORT

LOST GOLD TRAILS LOOP

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BUFFALO BILL SCENIC BYWAY

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C R O W I N D I A N R E S E R VA T I O N

B R I D G E R -

T E T O N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

S H O S H O N E

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

W I N D R I V E R

I N D I A N

R E S E R V A T I O N

B R I D G E R -

T E T O N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

C A R I B O U -

T A R G H E E

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

C A C H E

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

B R I D G E R -

T E T O N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

C U S T E R

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

F O R T H A L L

I N D I A N R E S E R VA T I O N

BEAVERHEAD-

DEERLODGE

NATIONAL FOREST

T A R G H E E

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

S H O S H O N E

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

BEAVERHEAD-

DEERLODGE

NATIONAL

FOREST

GALLATIN

NATIONAL FOREST

CUSTER

NATIONAL FOREST

CARIBOU-TARGHEE

NAT. FOREST

CARIBOU-

TARGHEE

NATIONAL

FOREST

CARIBOU

NATIONAL

FOREST

G A L L A T I N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T G A L L A T I N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

G A L L A T I N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

HELENA

NATIONAL

FOREST

C A R I B O U - T A R G H E E

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

C A R I B O U -

G A L L A T I N

N A T I O N A L

F O R E S T

LEE METCALF

WILDERNESS

LEE METCALF

WILDERNESS

LEE METCALF WILDERNESS

RED ROCK LAKESN.W.R.

T E T O N W I L D E R N E S S

JEDEDIAH

SMITH

WILDERNESS

JOHN D. ROCKEFELLER, JR.MEMORIAL PARKWAY

WINEGAR HOLEWILDERNESS

WA S H A K I E

W I L D E R N E S S

N O R T H A B S A R O K A W I L D E R N E S S

HAILSTONE N.W.R.

HALFBREED LAKEN.W.R.

GROS

FITZPATRICK

WILDERNESS

BRIDGER

WILDERNESS

GRAYS LAKEN.W.R.

CAMAS N.W.R.

BEAR LAKE N.W.R.

FOSSIL BUTTE NAT. MONUMENT

POPO AGIE

WILDERNESS

SEEDSKADEE

N.W.R.

PRYOR MTS. WILD HORSE RANGE

NATIONAL ELK

REFUGE

VENTRE

WILDERNESS

Road closed in winter

To Boise

To Missoula

To Helenaand Great Falls

To Laramieand Cheyenne

Road closed in winterIn winter, only guided oversnow

vehicles can use most parkroads—except the road fromGardiner to Cooke City, whichis open year-round.

Road closed in winter

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE

Big

Ho

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Jeff

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Ma

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Mis

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ri

Ga

llatin

G

alla

tin

Stillwate

r

Yellowstone

Shoshone

Henrys Fork

Ma

lad

Ba

nn

ock

Creek

Bea

r

Green

Bighorn

Gre

ybu

ll

Gooseberry Creek

Wind

Fivemile Creek

Muddy Creek

Grey

s

Fontenelle Creek

La B

arge Creek

Bea

r

Portneuf

Green

Blacks Fork

Bitter Creek

Sweetwater

Musselshell

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Sn

ake

Popo Agie

Ma

dison

Red

Ro

ck

Teton

Bear

Lake

Yellowstone

Lake

JacksonLake

American Falls

Reservoir

Hebgen Lake

PalisadesReservoir

Blackfoot Reservoir

Ocean Lake

HenrysLake

Shoshone Lake

Mud Lake

EnnisLake

Ririe Res.

FontenelleReservoir

Bull Lake

Lima Res.

Clark Canyon Res.

Island ParkReservoir

Buffalo Bill Reservoir

Sunshine Res.

LewisLake

Ashton Res.

Heart Lake

Willow Lake

Upper Red Rock L.

Lower Red Rock L.

BighornLake

Cliff Lake

Phelps L.

Leigh Lake

Eden Res.

Big Sandy Res.

Ruby RiverRes.

GraysLake

Lake Adam

Glasston L.

Big Lake

Cooney Res.

Mystic L.

DeadmansBasin Res.

Buffalo Bill Dam

Yellowtail Dam

Palisades Dam

LTarghee Pass7072 ft

K

K

K

K

K

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Mt. Sheridan10308 ft

GrandTeton

13770 ft

Mt. Moran12605 ft

Trout Peak 12244 ft

Granite Peak12799 ft

Caribou Mt.9803 ft

108°

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109°

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110°W111°

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Bozeman

Rexburg

Idaho Falls

Blackfoot

Pocatello

Green River

Rock Springs

Riverton

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Melrose

Glen

Dillon

Nye

Lake

Pony

Etna

Ucon

Opal

Pray

Dell

Lima

Lakeview

Molt

Boyd

Otto

Eden

Cody

Ennis

Moran

Moose

Kelly

Afton

Smoot

Teton

Ririe

Irwin

Wayan

Paris

Grace

Rigby

Menan

Logan

Alder

Hamer

Firth

Inkom

Arimo

Arbon

Acton

PryorEdgar

Kirby

Byron

Canyon

Tower

Norris

Norris

Daniel

Calpet

Wilson

Alpine

Thayne

Grover

Ashton

Parker

Driggs

Victor

Geneva

Dayton

Weston

McLeod

Dubois

Basalt

Downey

Laurel

Joliet

Ethete

Hudson

Lander

Dubois

Farson

Belfry

Roscoe

Deaver Cowley

Lovell

Powell

Emblem

Big Sky

Cameron

Jackson

Chester

Newdale

Tetonia

Lorenzo

Preston

Worland

Granger

Wilsall

Spencer

Roberts

Shelley

Clifton

Pingree

Silesia

Rapelje

Roberts

Bridger

Warren

Kinnear

Boulder

Garland

Ralston

Laketown

Belgrade

Gardiner

Cardwell

La Barge

Fairview

Drummond

Thatcher

Bancroft

Swanlake

Frontier

Kemmerer

Franklin

Emigrant

TerretonMud Lake

Chubbuck

McCammon

MorelandRockford

Melville

Fromberg

Columbus

Fishtail

Pinedale

Superior

Reliance

Bondurant

Marbleton

Big Piney

Cokeville

ManhattanWhitehall

Monteview

Fort Hall

Broadview

Park City

Reed Point

Absarokee

Red Lodge

Meeteetse

Crowheart

Pavillion

Bearcreek

Greycliff

West Thumb

McAllister

Sugar City

Georgetown

Bennington

Montpelier

Fish Haven

MinkCreek

Springdale

Livingston

Malad City

Big Timber

Cooke CityColter Pass

Burlington

Garden City

Churchill

Island Park

ThreeForks

SwanValley

Bloomington

Silver Star

Springfield

Grass Creek

Thermopolis

Silver Gate

Willow Creek

Soda Springs

Diamondville

Twin Bridges

Virginia City

TetonVillage

Saint Anthony

St. Charles

Hamilton Dome

Fort Washakie

Atlantic City

Fishing Bridge

Point of Rocks

South Pass City

Gallatin Gateway

WestYellowstone

Lava Hot Springs

MammothHot Springs

Radersburg

Townsend

Ringling

Toston

Basin

Shawmut

RyegateLavina

M O N T A N A

W Y O M I N G

I D A H O

U T A H

Y E L L O W S T O N EN A T I O N A L P A R K

GRAND TETON

NATIONAL PARK

American Dog Derby

Rabbitstick

Cody Nite Rodeo

The BreweryFollies

Teton ValleySummer Festival

Green RiverRendezvous Pageant

Mountain Man1838 Rendezvous

Heart of the West InvitiationalArt Show and Sale

Great MontanaSheep Drive

International PedigreeStage Stop

Chris’Restaurant

Idaho Museum of Natural HistorySee how the bones of a large bull mammoth were raised from Tolo Lake in 1994.

Museum of IdahoTake a stroll down Main Street, circa 1890.

Bear Creek Saloonand Steakhouse

Dubois Museum

Madison CountyCourthouse

Togwotee PassRoadside snow cuts surrender to midsummer wildflowers at the Continental Divide.

Lemhi Pass

Meeteetse MuseumsCave Falls

Greater YellowstoneGeotourism Center

Cliff Creek FallsWalk, pedal, or giddy-up along acutthroat trout stream to apair of cliff-hanging cascades.

Montana BunkhouseWorking Ranch Vacations

Portneuf GreenwayRiparian trails and urban pathways are maintained by the Portneuf Greenway Foundation

Heise Hot SpringsTake an apr´es-ski dunk in 105-degree mineral water.

Coal Miner Days

BIGHORN

CANYON

NATIONAL

RECREATION

AREA

Chesterfield Townsite

7D Ranch

Island ParkThe longest Main Street in America, at 33 miles

Fremont LakeSkyline Drive from Pinedale skirts this long, natural lake shaped by glaciers.

A B S A R O K A - B E A R T O O T H

W I L D E R N E S S

Henrys Fork RiverThis tributary of the Snake Riveris an essential destination for theworld's most committed anglers.

Museum ofthe Rockies

Idaho PotatoMuseum

South Pass City

Henrys Fork Greenway

Buffalo Bill Historical CenterFind out all about the American West:Buffalo Bill, the Plains Indian peoples,western art, firearms, and natural history.

Buffalo BillState Park

Canyon VisitorEducation Center

Fishing BridgeVisitor Center

Madison JuniorRanger Station

West Yellowstone Visitor Information Center

Albright Visitor Center

Old Faithful VisitorEducation Center

Grant Visitor Center

Norris GeyserBasin Museum

GreaterYellowstoneRegionIDAHO, MONTANA, and WYOMINGincluding Yellowstoneand Grand TetonNational Parks

Mountain Men “In the early 1800s, mountain men like Jedediah Smith and John Colter fired Americans’ imaginations about the vast western territory. The exploits of these free-roaming fur trappers were legendary. Though their era faded by the early 1840s, their paths can sometimes be detected in place-names that honor them — like the Snake River’s Henrys Fork, named for trapper Andrew Henry, who spent the winter of 1810 hunkered down along its banks.” —Nancy Stratford, Island Park Historical Society president, Island Park, ID

“The 19th century rendezvous began as a vehicle for trappers and traders to meet up, and exchange furs for provisions. Our modern rendezvous continues the tradition of showing off skills, swapping stories, and having a good time—while protecting 100 acres of the historical site of the 1838 rendezvous. We try to emulate the situation as it would have been in mountain man days, down to hand-stitched clothing, muzzle loading firearms, and tomahawk-throwing competitions.” —John Boesch, 1838 Rendezvous Association, Riverton, WY

Notable National Parks Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks lie at the heart of this region’s 36 million acres, and anchor its rich legacy of conservation. Greater Yellowstone holds some of the country’s first designated wilderness areas, and among its seven national forests, Wyoming’s Shoshone was the country’s first. “Grand Teton National Park is a place of simple beauty. Sometimes the least complicated activity rejuvenates our spirits the most, like skiing under the moon reflecting off the snow, marveling at night turning into day, or watching the mountains light up from top to bottom at sunrise. You might feel alone on top of a peak, but at any moment an insect might crawl from beneath a rock, a moose could wander by, or an eagle might soar overhead.” —Elizabeth Maki, Moose District Interpreter, Grand Teton National Park “In 1872, Yellowstone became the world’s first national park. The story-telling art of interpretation began here, as hotel staff and stagecoach drivers gave guided tours to curious visitors. “Geyser gazers” hung out at the geothermal spots, exchanging detailed observations for tourist tips. We still have geyser gazers today, sitting in floppy hats on hot summer days, logging geyser behavior into notebooks, and chatting with visitors, though no longer for money.” —Lee Whittlesey, historian, Yellowstone National Park

Four Season Recreation From scenic drives to extreme ice climbing, you’ll find out-door recreation for every season and every body. It’s never far to the nearest trailhead, trout stream, or ski area.

“Exploring wild places, our cardinal responsibility is to connect, learn, and appreciate. My young daughter and I spent one tent-bound night blindly trying to decipher sounds of thundering hooves and splashing. Morning showed the lakeshore riddled with tracks. Mama moose and calf had taken refuge in the lake while wolves chased along the shore. My daughter still talks about the night the moose outsmarted the wolves.” —Thomas Turiano, author and mountain guide, Wilson, WY “In the 1930s, fly fishing in Montana was exotic. Today we have fly rod manufacturers, fly tyers, guides, lodges, sec-ond homes, and a lot of interest in healthy rivers, all stem-ming from the confluence of world-class trout streams and enterprising people who saw fly fishing as another way to make a living in our remote communities.”—Kris Hauck, owner, El Western Cabins and Lodges, Ennis, MT

Landscape Changesand Challenges“The biggest challenge to wildlife here will be global warming. The numbers I’ve seen say the western U.S. could lose half its wild trout habitat by the end of this century. That would be devastating for fishing, local economies, and the whole ecology of the place. Grizzlies won’t make it without fish, and Yellowstone without grizzlies is hard to imagine.” —Craig Matthews, fly shop owner, Blue Ribbon Flies, West Yellowstone, MT

“Three years ago, you couldn’t see any drilling rigs from town. That’s all changed now. We have to get the balance right between wilderness, recreation, and natural gas development. Last winter, we had four ozone alerts here, and that helped wake people up to what we could be losing.” —Mindi Crabb, Pinedale, WY “Lots of people think of sagebrush drylands as ex- pendable. Yet, sage grouse depend on these areas, which also provide indispensable food and cover for mule deer, pronghorn, wild birds, and rodents. Fire keeps competing plants from crowding out sagebrush, but it’s getting harder to allow natural fires to burn when we have to protect all the homes that border public lands. That’s a big reason sagebrush is one of the most threatened habitats in Wyoming.” —Jerry Altermatt, Wyoming Game and Fish habitat biologist, Cody, WY

MUSEUM OF THE ROCKIES, BOZEMAN, MTDinosaurs of a feather flock together in the paleontology section, where researchers first deduced that the extinct creatures were ancestors of modern birds.

ABSAROKA-BEARTOOTH WILDERNESS, MTTravel on foot or horseback in this million-acre expanse of craggy peaks above high plateaus dotted with glacial lakes. Consider hiring a guide in this wilderness.

MONTANA BUNKHOUSES WORKING RANCH VACATIONS Whoa, dudes! These are real, working cattle ranches where you might have to fix fences or ride herd to earn your campfire beans. Mosey on over to www.montanaworkingranches.com.

BIGHORN CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION AREA, MT and WYYellowtail Dam transformed the Bighorn River from a muddy flatland stream into a cold tail-water fishery for brown and rainbow trout. The upstream reservoir offers 55 miles of deep-canyon navigation.

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARKNamed by French-speaking fur traders, the Teton Range rises abruptly alongside Wyoming’s western boundary. Paddlers ripple the reflections of snow-tipped mountain peaks, backpackers overnight in bear country, and photographers stalk grazing elk and pronghorn antelope. The Tetons were protected and appended to Yellowstone as a separate national park in 1929.

BUFFALO BILL STATE PARKBuffalo Bill Scenic Byway parallels the North Fork of the Shoshone from Yellowstone to Buffalo Bill State Park, where the river disappears into a vast reservoir. Wind-surfers, paddlers, and anglers enjoy the wide-open water behind Buffalo Bill Dam, which visitors may cross on foot, 350 feet above the floor of the downstream canyon.

CHESTERFIELD TOWNSITE, IDLovingly resurrected by modern Latter-day Saints, this Mormon settlement flourished astride the Oregon Trail from 1880 to 1920. The spare, elegant architecture includes the Meeting House, the Tithing Office, and the Honeymoon House, which newlyweds were allowed to use rent-free until the birth of a child, or the commu-nity’s next marriage.

KirwinOne of the ruins in this long-abandoned, high-elevation town belonged to lost aviator Amelia Earhart who had hoped to recuperate here after her 1937 round-the-world flight.

PARK COUNTY’S HISTORIC DUDE RANCHESDude ranches thrived a century ago at the peak of America’s infatuation with the western frontier. Survivors include the Rimrock, the Bill Cody, the Crossed Sabres, the UXU, and the 7D.

Jackson Lake LodgeRaft the Snake River, then take in the Tetons through the soaring windows of the lodge’s upper lobby.

The Grand HotelA drifter can still order up a drink in the saloon of this 1890 hostelry, but it now caters to travelers with more high-falutin palates who more likely ask for Chardonnay than five-cent whiskey.

Bridger Bowl Ski AreaA renegade among major ski areas, Bridger Bowl operates as a nonprofit community amenity, eschewing the resort sprawl that drives other big hill operations. The facility has grown apace with Bozeman, from one rope tow and a Quonset hut in 1955 to today’s eight chair lifts and three day-lodges.

Chico Hot SpringsHot mineral baths have soaked Yellowstone travelers since the 1860s. Geothermal greenhouse provides organic veggies for the resort kitchens.

Bozeman Community Co-opWheel the buckboard ‘round to Bozeman Community Co-op where the meats are local and organic and the fruits and veggies are grown naturally.

Historic Crail RanchWeekend quilt shows, craft markets, and fiddle music vitalize this early 20th century homestead as a living expression of Big Sky culture, then and now.

Ennis Outdoor bronzes of anglers and cowboys meet up with the real thing on Main Street. Ennis is the fly fishing hub of the Madison Valley, where bookstore browsers and ice cream lovers also find plenty to do.

Sweetgrass & Winston Rod BuildersWatch master craftsmen shape Chinese bamboo into luxury-priced, old-time fishing poles at Sweetgrass Rods in downtown Twin Bridges. Then, a short drive away and a hun-dred years later, peek at the mechanized production of carbon-fiber fly rods at the Winston Rod Company.

Sacajawea HotelNamed for the young Shoshone woman who guided Lewis and Clark in the early 19th century, this elegant hotel has been rebuilt several times since 1910, when its original structure was recycled from a yet-earlier hotel.

Mesa Falls Recreational AreaGeologic, natural, and historical features abound throughout Upper and Lower Mesa Falls, all easily accessible along the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway. The Big Falls Inn (built 1912–14) was an early stage stop and hotel for visitors traveling to Yellowstone National Park, and now serves as a visitor center in the summer and warming hut for snow travelers in the winter.

Spencer Opal MinesSerious rock hounds may, for a fee, dig up to five pounds of precious opal from the main mine. Casual collectors may sift through a pile of ore behind the shop.

Rendezvous Ski TrailsMore than 35 Kilometers (22 miles) of impeccably groomed and dog-free trails attract cross-country skiers of all persua-sions, from classic kick-and-gliders to speedy skaters and sharp-eyed biathlon rifle shooters.

Museum of the National Park RangerLearn why a detachment of U.S. Cavalry evolved into the Ranger service, and how they got their flat-brimmed hats.

Farnsworth TV and Pioneer MuseumIdaho farm boy Philo T. Farnsworth sketched his idea for moving-picture radio on a high school blackboard here in 1922. See an early Farnsworth television, along with his patents and family fiddle, one of many to fall silent across potato country because of Philo’s invention.

Beaver Dick ParkRichard “Beaver Dick” Leigh, one of the last of the real mountain men of this valley, helped in the survey of Yellowstone. Nearby are the graves of his Shoshone wife Jenny and their six children who perished together from smallpox.

Harriman State Park The Henrys Fork wanders eight miles through this riparian preserve where 20 miles of mo-tor-free trails are stalked by birders, wildlife photographers, and, in winter, cross-country skiers. The park encompasses Railroad Ranch where visitors can ride trail on hired horses.

Idaho’s World Famous Hot PoolsBob your way down the geothermally warm Portneuf River in a rented inner tube, or just treat yourself to a calming dip in a resort hot pool.

Colonial Theater/Willard Arts CenterThe Idaho Falls Arts Council enriches the community with classes, gallery shows, and live performances in a restored 1919 vaudeville theater.

Wyoming RangeThis high-elevation backcountry of elk range and trout streams anchors the southern reaches of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and is a favorite of resident hunters, anglers, and horsemen.

St. Hubert the Hunter ChurchJust five courses of logs were set in place for the church’s first wedding in 1940. Volunteers completed the structure with the cash from the sale of a diamond donated to the Episco-pal Church of America. The annual Bondurant Barbecue supports church activities including morning prayer throughout the summer.

Jackson Hole MuseumLearn about Jackson’s “petticoat government,” an all-woman town council elected in 1920 to supervise a lively frontier community of churches, playhouses, and saloons.

Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor CenterA forest of fir logs supports the jagged peaks of the roof line, expressing an architectural sense of place.

Bear Lake State ParkBoaters have a 20-mile length of high-altitude lake to explore, while four miles of gently sloping beach provide safe, warm swimming in late summer.

Enders Hotel and MuseumThe 100-foot fountain out back erupts precisely on the hour. That’s because it’s a mechanically bored geothermal well, controlled by a valve and timer.

Henrys Lake State ParkThis high-country lake and immaculately maintained campground swarm with anglers when the snouts of feeding trout dimple the surface.

Heart Mountain Relocation CenterWartime hysteria caused 10,000 Americans of Japanese ancestry to be detained here from 1942 to 1945. Hundreds of intern-ees joined the U.S. army as volunteers or conscripts; others were jailed for demanding restoration of their civil liberties in exchange for military service.Yellowstone National Park

Just yesterday, in geological time, the area that is now Yellowstone National Park exploded, creating a caldera 35 miles wide and 45 miles long. A mere 640,000 years later, geysers, mud pots, and fumeroles remind visitors that this precious ecosystem remains perched atop a vast hydrothermal underworld. The surface subsides or bulges by several inches annually due to deep migrations of molten rock.

Jenny Lake DistrictJenny Lake Lodge is television-free, so guests can make the most of the lake’s hiking, riding, and fishing trails.

Legend Rock Petroglyph SiteSee ancient carvings and images, still on the same sheltered cliff face where a suc-cession of rock artists created them over a period of at least two thousand years.

Gannett PeakSkilled climbers endure a 45-mile, 20-hour return trip for a view of the Rockies’ five largest surviving glaciers.

Hot Springs State ParkSteep in hot mineral water, and then pay respects to some of the West’s forgotten characters at Smoky Row Cemetery.

The Green RiverGreen River water and wildlife attracted Native Americans, mountain men, ranchers, and most recently, recreational floaters and anglers.

National Museum of Wildlife ArtThe sandstone building is itself a master-piece. Inside, 14 exhibition galleries display paintings, photographs, and sculptures celebrating North American wildlife.

Green River LakesThe upper of these two glacier-made lakes is designated wilderness where boating is restricted to paddle power. The Green River Campground is at the end of the rough road from Pinedale and is reputed by backcoun-try enthusiasts to be one of the Forest Service’s most scenic.

Fort Washakie Historic SiteThis military post was named for the Shoshone chief and U.S. army scout buried here with full military honors.

Norris Hot SpringsSoak, inside and out, at this roadside spa, where the water is “of the Gods,” and the wine list is infernal, featuring “Jezebel Pinot Noir,” and “7 Deadly Sins Zinfandel.” Regional folk and bluegrass musicians play poolside.

Yellowstone Association HeadquartersLocated in the historic Hall’s Store. Get Yellowstone trip planning advice and browse the bookstore.

Roosevelt ArchLooming over the open landscape like the last relic of a city wall, Roosevelt Arch was erected from volcanic basalt in 1903, upon a cornerstone mortared into place by America’s president and patriarch of conservation.

Colter Bay AreaKindle a fire in the wood stove and nestle into one of the park’s 166 log cabins, tucked amid pines and aspens, along the shoreline of Jackson Lake.

Headwaters of the Missouri RiverAnnual flooding saved this confluence of three Missouri River tributaries from settlement, and the ancient hunting grounds, now a state park, remain as wild as when Lewis and Clark camped here in 1805.

Western Heritage CenterWorks of renowned Western artist J.K. Ralston are on permanent display, along with the painter's actual log-cabin studio. Oral histories of the Crow and Cheyenne contribute to a comprehensive understanding of Montana's human heritage.

Yellowstone Historic CenterThe abandoned Union Pacific depot is now a museum, set amid other steam-era facilities that include a water tower, oil house, and crew dormitory.

Madison RiverThe Madison in midsummer is popular with drift boats anglers who fly cast into the riffles in the hunt for big trout.

Buck’s T-4 RestaurantToast your darling with a huckleberry mar-tini in the Wedding Garden and then chow down on braised bison short ribs, followed by chocolate-and-cherry soup.

Hot Springs County Museum and Cultural CenterThe cherry wood bar salvaged from the Hole-in-the-Wall Saloon was a favorite lean of outlaws Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid at the turn of the 20th century.

Sinks Canyon State ParkThe Popo Agie River disappears ghost-like through a canyon wall to emerge downstream as a placid basin teeming with trout.

National Outdoor Leadership SchoolGet outfitted with topo maps, rental gear, and bulk foods at the National Outdoor Leadership School’s Rocky Mountain expedition provision-ing outlet in downtown Lander.

Museum of the Mountain ManThey went where no white man had gone before. The fur traders of the early 1800s adopted Native American ways while introducing commerce, guns, and disease.

Carbon County Historical Society and MuseumThis 1909 former union hall details the 1943 Smith Mine explosion that killed 75 coal miners and remains the central event in county history.

TITHING OFFICE, CHESTERFIELD TOWNSITECHRIS KNOX

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everal years ago, I was fly-fishing with a buddy in backcountry Yellowstone. The dusk

sky turned Technicolor and the temperature dropped as the sun slipped behind the moun-tains. The stream cut deeply into the terrain so tall banks obscured the view both ways. We could smell something musky, and suddenly there was an explosive splash no more than 20 yards upstream around the blind corner. A moment later, the current filled with feathers, a slick of blood, and pieces of a duck. My friend and I exchanged glances. We never saw the bear. All that remained were evidence of his kill and his tracks. We were reminded this was his neighborhood, and we were the guests and that was as it should be. And how this place was intended to be. Think about a region so awe-inspiring that after having seen it in 1871, the members of the Hayden Expedition sat around a campfire near the Madison River and conceived of an entity both audacious and visionary: A “National Park.” By 1872, it was called “The National Park.” It was one of America’s greatest ideas and gifts to the world: 2.2 million acres containing 10,000 thermal features, spectacular geological diver-sity, and native wildlife in stunning numbers. The park’s creation launched a concept that has spawned thousands of national parks in coun-tries around the world, including its dramatic sister park, Grand Teton. My first of more than a hundred visits to Yellowstone took place when I was a child in the 1960s when bears begged tourists for food instead of hunting it in the backcountry. Things have changed since then and the wildness has returned. Wolves are back and restorative fires are allowed to burn. We neighbors think it’s still America’s best national park. —C.J. Box, novelist, Wyoming

Fish StoryThe Yellowstone River flows right down the block from where I live. You can float it in big wooden boats, or in rubber rafts with a bunch of people. I have a small sturdy boat the size of a truck tire. It has no real floor except for the seat, so when you pull over to a shallow spot you can stand up and fish. Trout fishing is very big here. In the Yellowstone, you have your choice of introduced brown, rainbow, or the native cutthroat trout. Cutthroats have red slash marks under the jaws; they look like their throats have been cut. Since “cuts” are relatively rare and out-competed by introduced trout, your conscientious fisherman will always release the natives. Smaller creeks have brook trout. The brookies eat a lot of fresh water crustaceans and, to my taste, have a richer flavor than big river trout. In July, after the runoff, a certain kind of large bug, the salmon fly, hatches on the river. It’s a good time to fish for big trout. The trick is to match the hatch—see what manner of insect is presently completing its life cycle and floating on the sur-face. Then tie a dry fly replica on your line and cast for a fish that is rising and eating those insects. That’s right: you’re matching wits with an animal whose brain is the size of a fingernail clipping. Still, there’s really nothing much more thrilling than catching the precise fish you’re casting to on a properly chosen dry fly. —Tim Cahill, author, Livingston, MT

S

An Ecosystem to Experience

Yellowstone and Beyond

geotourism (n): Tourism that sustains or enhances the geographical character of a place—its environment, culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well-being of its residents.

National Geographic and the people of Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming present this Geotourism MapGuide to the Greater Yellowstone region.

Lead project partners include the National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destina-tions, National Geographic Maps, and the Greater Yellowstone Geotourism Stewardship Council, with regional coordination provided by Greater Yellowstone Coalition and the Yellowstone Business Partnership.

We gratefully acknowledge funding support from the following: Bureau of Land Manage-ment; Greater Yellowstone Coalition; Idaho Division of Tourism Development; National Park Service; Travel Montana and its partners, Yellowstone Country tourism region and the Bozeman, Big Sky, and West Yellowstone Convention and Visitor Bureaus; United States Forest Service; and Wyoming Travel and Tourism.

Text by Michele Archie, author; Tom Miller, editor. Map notes by David Thomas

Visit www.yellowstonegeotourism.net to learn more about the Greater Yellowstone region. Copyright © 2009 National Geographic Society, Washington, D.C.

Festivals & EventsInternational Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race various, WY (January or February) This race across Wyoming into Utah is the largest in the lower 48. Its “stage stop” format allows for a stop in a different town each night, where activi-ties may include games, carnivals, and fireworks. www.wyomingstagestop.orgAmerican Dog Derby Ashton, ID (mid-February) Historic dog sled race that runs from Ashton, Idaho to Yellowstone Park. Five different races are offered plus a host of other activities including a snowshoe race and a weight pull in which spectators and their dogs compete. www.americandogderby.orgThe Brewery Follies Virginia City, MT (May through September) A risque contemporary cabaret act in Montana’s first brewery, the H.S. Gilbert Brewery. www.breweryfollies.netCody Nite Rodeo and Stampede Cody, WY (June through August) For 90 nights Cody hosts the Rodeo, a fun event for the rodeo lover, highlighted by the Kids’ Calf Scramble for children. Many of the top competitors take part in the prestigious Buffalo Bill Cody Stampede held in early July. www.codystampederodeo.comPlains Indian Museum Powwow Cody, WY (3rd weekend in June) Celebration of family, tradition, and the culture of the people of the Plains. This colorful and vibrant Powwow includes a learning tipi for children, dance competitions, music, and arts and crafts. www.bbhc.org/Events/powwow.cfmEastern Shoshone Indian Days Fort Washakie, WY (last weekend in June) Wyoming’s largest powwow invites people to gather from throughout North America. Visitor’s can experience traditional dances, drum contests, a parade, food, and crafts. www.easternshoshone.net/IndianDays.htmlTeton Valley Summer Festival Driggs, ID (week of July 4) Four days of art and craft shows, hot air balloon rides, breakfasts, contests, parades, and much more. www.tetonvalleychamber.comPioneer Days Parade and Rodeo Lander, WY (July 3 and 4) In its 114th year, this event remains the world’s oldest paid rodeo. Other activities include a barbeque, parade, and fireworks display. www.landerchamber.org/annualevents.aspxMountain Man 1838 Rendezvous Riverton, WY (Wednesdays, July to Septem-ber) Celebrating the original 1838 rendezvous site this event, through traditional competitions, reenactments, and seminars, encourages novices to share the experience of life during the trapper’s era. www.1838rendezvous.comGreen River Rendezvous Pageant Pinedale, WY (2nd weekend in July) Relives history with pageants, parades, local food and crafts, demonstrations, Sunday prairie mass, and a rodeo. www.meetmeonthegreen.comShoshone-Bannock Indian Festival Fort Hall, ID (2nd weekend in August) A tradi-tional gathering complete with food, crafts, special performances, and thousands of people from all over North America competing in singing and dance competi-tions. www.shoshonebannocktribes.com/festivalCrow Fair Crow Agency, MT (3rd weekend in August) Large gathering of the Crow or Apsáalooke Nation, renowned internationally for their horsemanship and bead-work, who have lived in this region since the 1700s. Highlights include a parade, rodeo, dancing, horse races, and a powwow. www.crow-fair.comGreat Montana Sheep Drive Reed Point, MT (September) Highlighted by the run-ning of hundreds of locally-bred sheep down main street, this event also features a parade, rides, and a dance. visitmt.com/whatsnew/features/sheepishfun.htmRabbitstick Rexburg, ID (3rd week in September) The largest and oldest primitive skills gathering in the United States, filled with dozens of workshops followed by musical entertainment. www.backtracks.netBridger Raptor Festival Bozeman, MT (October) Dedicated to promoting a greater understanding of local wildlife, centered around the largest known golden eagle migration in the United States. Activities include a wildlife film festival, nature walks, and entertainment for the entire family. www.bridgerraptorfest.orgJackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival Jackson Hole, WY (early October) Encourages the production of natural history programming around the world through the exploration of new technology. Celebrates the world’s finest examples of wildlife filmmaking through its film competition. www.jhfestival.orgHeart of the West Invitational Art Show and Sale Lander, WY (mid-October) The show attracts some of the best artists from Wyoming as well as out of state. Held over two days, events include a wine and scotch tasting, cowboy gear exhibition, auction, and patron’s ball. www.landerchamber.org/heartofthewesthome.aspx

www.WyomingTourism.org

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The UNESCO World HeritageList recognizes the most significant cultural and natural treasures on the planet.

Albers Conic Equal-Area ProjectionSCALE 1 : 800,000

Historic

Festival

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World heritage site

Scenic route

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•WORLD

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Historic Phillips Lodge and the PinesComfortable cabins provide forest living

without camp smoke or mosquitoes.

Corner Drug

Victor Emporium

Moo’s GourmetIce Cream

Rock Rabbit Coffee Shop and Bistro

Dubois Drugstore

511 Main Fountain & Pizzeria

Eagle’s Store

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EasternShoshoneIndian Days

Plains Indian Museum Powwow

Crow Fair

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Indian Festival

BighornMedicine Wheel

Colter Bay Visitor Center and Indian Arts Museum

Madison Buffalo JumpState Park

Shoshone-BannockTribal Museum

Tribal artisans sustain age-old skills alongside historical collections of American Indian crafts.

Native American life, before and after their world changed.

Stones of this 700-year-oldobservatory align with the arc of

the sun at the summer solstice.

Whiskey Mt.11095 ft K

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WINEGAR HOLEWILDERNESS

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WASHAKIE

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HAILSTONE N.W.R.

HALFBREED LAKE N.W.R.

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Bridger Raptor Festival

Jackson Hole WildlifeFilm Festival

The Nature Conservancy'sFlat Ranch

Beartooth Nature Center

National Bighorn SheepInterpretive Center

Buffalo Bill Historical CenterDraper Museum of Natural History

Visitors enjoy safe encounters with rescued bears, wolves, and mountain lions.

Day tours bring wintertime visitors within camera range of the herd on Whiskey Mountain.

Introduces visitors to the natural historyof the Greater Yellowstone Region,

including curator-led wildlife tours.

Cowboys keep cattle on the move to optimize grazing value and wildlife habitat on this working ranch.

From Prehistory to Contemporary LifeEleven thousand years of following bison, ber-ries, and the seasons ended for native peoples in the 1800s, as America came looking for gold, farmland, and a manifest destiny. Only five of some two-dozen American Indian tribes that trav-eled Yellowstone’s trails were granted land here, collected onto three reservations.

“Our Shoshone people have ancient connections with Yellowstone. Many tribes were drawn to the heated waters that come from deep in the earth. Water is a great conductor of the spirit world, and the spiritual presence of this ancient water is especially strong.”

—Ren Freeman, Director, Eastern Shoshone Museum and Heritage Center, Fort Washakie, WY

“There’s a powerful feeling at our most sacred places, such as the medicine wheel in the Bighorn Mountains. My grandfather told stories about how the medicine wheel used to be much taller than it is now. But people took rocks from the wheel, maybe to take that feeling with them. We need to have respect, not just for Indian sacred sites, but for every place.”

—Jackie Yellowtail, coordinator, Apsaalooke Tours, Crow Agency, MT

“Like gatherings of the old days, people come from all over to our powwow. Dancing is the heart of the powwow, which includes horse relays, traditional games, and parades. Our traditions bring back the old ways, the old times, and keep our religion and our language alive."

—Delbert Farmer, elder, Shoshone Bannock Tribes, Fort Hall, ID

At Home in the LandscapeNow that the gray wolf is back, Greater Yellow-stone is again home to the full complement of animals that Lewis and Clark might have seen here on their voyage of discovery.

"Visiting, recreating, or living here, we have to alter our behavior—we can’t expect wildlife to change how they act just because we’re around. Bears, for example, have remarkable memories. One bag of potato chips at a campground or one bowl of pet food left outside can put that place permanently on the bear's mental map of places I go to look for food. That’s how wild bears be-come problem bears."

—Libby Scott, animal curator, Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center, West Yellowstone, MT

“We’re known around the world for our public lands, but animals like elk, deer, and pronghorn depend on private land—mostly farms and ranches in our open valleys. These animals come down from the mountains to find food and milder weather. Carnivores follow. The whole ecosystem depends on private lands.”

—Mark Petroni, US Forest Service District Ranger, retired, Madison Valley, MT, Fort Hall, ID

“Wildlife watching here changes with the seasons. In spring, Elk wade in a sea of purple camas wildflowers. In winter, on snowshoes, you can track a coyote stalking a mouse to the edge of the water. Look up, and you’re face-to-face with thirty yakking trumpeter swans floating on the river.”

—Kyle Babbitt, year-round resident, Island Park, ID

Shaping a MonumentalLandscapeYellowstone’s geyser basins, such as Old Faith-ful, and hot springs point to the presence of molten rock not far, in a geologist’s view, below the surface. Other forces of nature are power-fully in evidence—mountain-forming upheavals, glaciers, and wildfires that scorch and revitalize natural systems. Snowmelt from Yellowstone’s high country becomes streams that wind through volcanic terrain to feed the Snake, Missouri, and Green Rivers.

“Yellowstone is an enormous volcano, which is difficult to see if you're looking for the familiar cone shape. In the past 2.5 million years, two of the largest volcanic eruptions known on Earth happened here. The most recent of these formed the Yellowstone Caldera, the depression where most of the park's 10,000-plus geother-mal features are found. Earthquakes and other ground movements remind us that this volcano is still very much alive.”

—Jacob Lowenstern, Yellowstone Volcano Observatory scientist-in-charge, Yellowstone National Park

“Springtime flooding along streams and rivers renews some of the most productive and diverse natural systems in the west—home to river otter, native trout, songbirds, and a long list of other animals. Rivers shaped the social landscape, too. These natural passageways attracted explorers, farmers, miners, and settlers to their banks. Look at the region’s major communities and you’ll likely find rivers flowing through.”

—Ken Sinay, owner/guide, Yellowstone Safari, Livingston, MT

Vibrant and Historic CommunitiesWith one foot in the past and one stepping into the future, Greater Yellowstone’s friendly towns are base camps for exploring wide-open spaces and wild places.

“You can take quite a tour just focusing on his-toric hotels, from the Gallatin Gateway Inn, which once linked tourists arriving by rail with coaches bound for Yellowstone National Park, to the Irma Hotel in Cody where Annie Oakley, Calamity Jane, and Frederic Remington all stayed. This area is rich with historic downtowns that offer a glimpse into the past."

—Ev Diehl, owner, Chamberlin Inn, Cody, WY

“Bozeman is full of talent—we have 100 artists working here at the Emerson Center alone—so it’s no surprise that culture is taking its place next to the lure of the great outdoors. During winter, people show up at films and galleries in their ski garb, looking for a great cultural experi-ence to cap off a day on the slopes.”

—Yvonne Reddy, gallery attendant and docent, Emerson Center for the Arts & Culture, Bozeman, MT

“This region may be unique in all the world as a place where a person can have an extraordinary natural experience, and then digest it through the eyes of artists, historians, naturalists, and different cultures. An exceptional collection of museums enhances our personal experiences and helps unlock the issues we grapple with every day.”

—David Pennock, Executive Director, Museum of Idaho, Idaho Falls, ID

hose of us lucky enough to live in the Yellowstone region rarely step back and marvel at its diversity, chaos, and unique qualities.

Despite the perennial stories about Yellowstone (and other national parks) being “loved to death,” only two percent of the park is developed. Beyond the heavily-trafficked figure-eight road system, you'll find the park untouched, rugged, and spectacular. Its 3,700 square miles are remarkably untrammeled. Yet not far from the park borders, contro-versy simmers over development, whether for natural gas, oil, coal, or wind. Exten-sive resort construction and the recent proliferation of ranchettes are transform-ing the landscape. Want to start an argu-ment in Wyoming, Montana, or Idaho? Ask about wolf reintroduction, grizzly bear management, fire policy, or grazing rights.

How about the rapid explosion of coal-bed methane wells? In a region where everyone is invested in the environment, opinions about its management run as hot and deep as the wondrous thermal system in Yel-lowstone itself. And like that thermal activity, there are frequent eruptions. These different outlooks take place amidst some of the most stunning terrain on earth. To top it off, these contemporary environmental issues bub-ble just a few miles away from the mouth of the

Yellowstone Caldera, an ancient active vol-cano that, according to some scientists, may be 60,000 years overdue to explode. The fate of Yellowstone's ecosystem is fast approaching a crossroads. A wide range of opinion is taking shape while the caldera itself shows increasing signs of life. It’s an exciting time to live here. —C.J. Box, novelist, Wyoming

A Remarkable LandT

UNITED STATES

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areLocal Living Nature’s Forces

Magnificent WildlifeNative Peoples

BIGHORN MEDICINE WHEEL AT SOLSTICETOM MELHAM

WOLF CIRCLING ELK PRIOR TO PACK AMBUSH, YELLOWSTONE N.P.DARYL L. HUNTER / THE HOLE PICTURE

SHOSHONE RELAY RACE ON THE FORT HALL INDIAN RESERVATION, IDMARILYN ANGEL WYNN / NATIVESTOCK.COM

GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARKMOMATIUK - EASTCOTT / CORBIS

BLAIR LAKE, CONTINENTAL DIVIDE, ID PEGGY HAMLEN

SOW WITH CUBS, YELLOWTONE NATIONAL PARKJEFF VANUGA

DRAPER MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, BUFFALO BILL HISTORICAL CENTER, CODY, WYCHRIS GIMMESON

NEW GROWTH AFTER FOREST FIRE, NEAR YELLOWSTONE N.P.NEIL LAFAVE

DARK HORSE BOOKSJEANNE ANDERSON

QUAKE LAKEDARYL L. HUNTER / THE HOLE PICTURE

LIVINGSTON FARMERS MARKETJENNIFER SMITH-MAYO

LOWER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE RIVERDONNIE SEXTON

SHOSHONE INDIAN DANCER ON THE WIND RIVER INDIAN RESERVATION JEFF VANUGA

TRUMPETER SWANRICCARDO SAVI

Beyond the National Parks For every day that you vacation in the national parks spend a day at the nearby Shoshone or Caribou-Targhee National Forest, or visit a local community such as Cody, WY or Driggs, ID. Government, businesses, and conserva-tionists can suggest tips on trails to hike, scenic byways to drive, and wildlife to watch.

Get Out of Your CarSpend time away from your wheels. Whether walking to a geyser, hiking to a mountain vista, or touring a museum, the sights, sounds, and smells of Greater Yellowstone are best experienced on foot.

Watchable WildlifeFrom grizzly bears to wolves, the Greater Yellowstone is home to the full complement of native predators. Wildlife prefer the early morning and just before sunset, and to catch them through your binoculars, a spotting scope, or a camera, you should too. Bone up with your field guide, and respect the animals from at least 100 yards— especially bears. Likewise, keep your distance from other humans looking for the same animals.

Business and StewardshipBy patronizing distinctive businesses in the gateway com-munities on the outer edge of the Greater Yellowstone, you are helping towns that are essential for a quality visit. These communities have unique character. Let local

businesses know that you care about the conservation and preservation of open lands and that the wildlife and endless space have drawn you here and will bring you back. A follow-up email or letter to lodging or dining facilities encourages their stewardship.

Land of the Grizzly BearThe famous grizzly bear inhabits much of the Greater Yellowstone. Once on the verge of extinction the grizzly is now rebounding thanks to aggressive conservation measures. Basic precautions can help to keep you safe when hiking in grizzly country: Hike in groups of two or more people. Avoid hiking at night. Make your presence known to bears by clapping, calling out, or singing. This is especially important around streams and on windy days.

To deter an aggressive bear, carry bear spray (available in gateway communities). When camping, store all food in bear-resistant containers or hard-sided vehicles. Climate and PreparednessThe Greater Yellowstone Region sits in a high elevation mountainous landscape where weather conditions can change abruptly. While the coldest months are typically December through February, snow can fall at any time of the year. Check the local weather report daily, inquire about road closures—especially November to May—and bring appropriate clothing for sudden weather changes. Always tell someone where you are going and when you expect to return. Carry plenty of water and food, arm

yourself with maps and a compass, as well as a first aid kit, flashlight, and again, bear spray.

Thinking of Owning a Home in Greater Yellowstone?If you’re considering relocating to Greater Yellowstone, consider living in town rather than in a rural subdivision or ranchette. These newer places fragment working ranches and wildlife migrations and degrade air and water quality. By choosing a home in town you will help to conserve the qualities that make this region so special (and you’re less likely to find a grizzly bear wandering through your backyard). Further, take the Greater Yellowstone weather into account: The climate might feel

great in June, but the sun can scorch at 105° in July—and reach down to -30° with fifty mile an hour winds in February. Visit during Greater Yellowstone’s highs and lows before settling in for the long haul.

Yellowstone National Park in the WinterWinter is an amazing time to visit the Park. Yellowstone’s snow-covered landscape lends itself admirably to cross country skiing, snowshoeing, photography, and winter wildlife viewing. Snowcoaches provide an environmen-tally friendly way of accessing the park in winter. Check the Yellowstone National Park web site at www.nps.gov/yell or gateway community chambers of commerce for a list of snowcoach tour operators.

Geotraveler TipsThe Yellowstone Book PackA well-rounded geotraveler is also a well-read geotraveler. These books reveal the region’s personality, illuminate its history, and portray its natural life: Where Rivers Change Direction (Mark Spragg), Hawks Rest (Gary Ferguson), A Naturalist's Guide to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks (Frank C. Craighead, Jr.), Silence and Solitude: Yellowstone's Winter Wilderness (Tom Murphy), Jackson Hole Hikes (Rebecca Woods), Montana: The Last Best Place (Kittredge & Smith), Letters From Yellowstone (Diane Smith), The Grand Tetons (Margaret Sanborn), Travels in the Greater Yellowstone (Jack Turner), and John Colter: His Years in the Rockies (Burton Harris). To make nights in the tent a bit spookier, read the essential Yel-lowstone mystery novel, Free Fire (C. J. Box).

MAP DATA DERIVED FROM: NASA EARTH OBSERVATORY; OAK RIDGE NATIONAL LABORATORY LANDSCAN 2006/UT-BATTELLE; SRTM DATA, INTERNATIONAL CENTRE FOR TROPICAL AGRICULTURE (CIAT); UMD GLOBAL LAND COVER CLASSIFICATION, UNIVERSITY OF MARYLAND; UNEP-WORLD CONSERVATION MONITORING CENTRE AND IUCN; U.S. BUREAU OF THE CENSUS.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument Silence prevails over the 1876 battlefield where Sitting Bull's coalition of warriors overwhelmed General Custer's Seventh Calvary in the most famous massacre of America's Indian Wars. To sense the war whoops and the dying moans, join Crow interpreters for a narrated tour.

Chief Plenty Coups State ParkThe Medicine Spring on this former homestead of Chief Plenty Coups invites everyone to meditate upon their shared occupation of the West. The revered Apsáalooke chief chose diplomacy over war to protect reservation lands coveted by settlers and railroad builders.

Monument to Father Pierre Jean DeSmetThe Jesuit missionary celebrated Wyoming's first mass here and became a trusted mediator between the U.S. and native tribes.

Camas Meadows BattlegroundNez Perce braves captured grazing army mules in a midnight raid in 1877. The cavalry caught up with them but the natives prevailed, escaping into Yellowstone Park with the captured pack animals.

National Oregon-California Trail CenterThis historically rigorous and technically creative interpretive center lets you experience the challenges of America's great westward migration of the mid-1800s. Bounce through virtual trail ruts in a covered-wagon simulator and end your day on the trail by swapping stories around an artificial campfire.

Pictograph Cave State Park and National MonumentGenerations of hunters left behind their wall art, arrowheads, and even Eskimo harpoon tips acquired through inter-tribal trade.

Nez Perce Historic TrailThe Nez Perce escaped the U.S. Cavalry along this trail after winning a battle at Camas Meadows in 1877. They were overtaken just short of refuge at the Canadian border.

Dark Horse BooksServing as a community cultural center, this store is well-stocked with books by regional authors about landscape, wildlife, and human society. Read local.

Teton ValleyTeton Valley celebrates the open vistas and rural simplicity that have made it home to a colony of painters, carvers, glass blowers, photographers, and musicians.

Lewis and Clark CavernsLewis and Clark came close but missed seeing the opening to this cave 90 years before the underground wonderland of spikes and col-umns was first explored. Modern adventurers descend steps chiseled into the limestone by the New Deal's Civilian Conservation Corps.

Hebgen Lake EarthquakeThe six-mile-long Quake Lake began to fill in 1959 when a landslide plugged the Madison River canyon. The slide buried 19 campers, but protected the lower Madison Valley from the tsunamis that sloshed over Hebgen Dam higher up the canyon.

Downtown LivingstonArtists and fly casters have superseded gandy dancers and cow punchers in this old railhead. The Northern Pacific depot is now a gallery, and the last remnants of the cattle trade are the angling shops that sell calf tails to fly tiers.

Virginia City Historic District Virginia City (pop. 150), now the State of Montana's most ambitious preservation and education project, includes walking tours with well-preserved Victorian-era structures, including the Bale of Hay Saloon and the Hangman's building where vigilantes executed five alleged bandits in 1864. When a gold rush in the 1860s churned the gravel of Alder Gulch, the town's population reached 10,000.

The Emerson Center for the Arts & CultureBozeman’s reputation as a regional hub for arts and culture owes much to the Emerson Center’s year-long schedule of events, exhibi-tions, and studio classes.

Grizzly and Wolf Discovery CenterWatch rescued grizzlies here claw, bite, and pound garbage containers. Products that re-sist 60 minutes of grizzly abuse are certified as bear-resistant. Visitors may also witness wolf family behavior at this not-for-profit wild-life haven and public education facility.

Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife RefugeJust 69 trumpeter swans lived in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem when this refuge was designated in 1935. Today, 400 reside year-round in the region, joined in winter by 4,000 more from Canada.

Yellowstone RiverThe longest free-flowing river in the lower 48 states, the 670-mile Yellowstone drains the national park into the Missouri River system. Its deep, colored canyon and high, misted waterfall are hallowed views.

Beartooth MountainsDated at nearly four billion years, the Bear-tooth Mountains are some of the planet's oldest rock. Since the original sediments of the Beartooths were deposited, uplift, igneous intrusions, streams, and glaciers have formed plateaus and peaks of Precambrian gneiss dissected by deep troughs and hanging valleys.

Path of the PronghornGrand Teton's resident herd of pronghorn migrates to its winter range near Pinedale through the country's first officially desig-nated wildlife corridor.

HUCKLEBERRY MILKSHAKE TOURThe huckleberry milkshake is a summertime staple in the Rocky Mountain West. In Idaho, taste tests should include Corner Drug and Victor Emporium; in Montana, the musts are Yesterday's Restaurant and Soda Fountain, Buns 'N' Beds, Eagle's Store, and Virginia City Creamery.

The Lamar ValleyDawn and dusk are best to hear the wolf packs of the Lamar Valley. In between, watch for grizzly bears, elk, moose, bighorn sheep, and the park's free-roaming bison.

St. Anthony Sand DunesWind moves these mountains of granulated quartz eight feet a year, erasing the recurring ruts made by armies of off-road vehicles. Day hikes and horseback rides are no trace options for exploring the 11,000 acres of shifting sand.

Teton Flood MuseumThe high water line at the doorway hints at the destructive scale of flooding which followed the washout of a new earthen dam, just days after its completion in 1976.

McCullough PeaksA resident herd of 150 wild palominos, pintos, and roans flash brightly across 110,000 acres of pastel desert and badlands.

Meeteetse Main StreetThe Old West, the way it was, except for the chocolate truffles confected by bronc rider Tim Kellogg at his Meeteetse Chocolatier. A more rugged view of cowboy life is portrayed next-door at the Charles J. Belden Museum of Western Photography.

Grays Lake Wildlife RefugeA large flock of greater sandhill cranes and a renascent population of trumpeter swans draw birders to this montane marshland.

Cooke City/Silver Gate/Colter PassFor a penny, buy a candy at Cooke City General Store and watch your sale rung up on the original 1886 hand-cranked cash register. Cooke City and sisters Silver Gate and Colter Pass offer skiers guided access to backcountry runs.

Big Springs National Natural Landmark AreaHeadwaters for Henrys Fork, Big Springs is a spawning refuge for trout and the start of a five-mile national water trail where boaters may drift, but not fish. Nearby, you can visit the historic Johnny Sack Cabin.

Gallatin Gateway InnThe tracks are gone, but the original lobby clock still keeps train time in this 1920s grand hotel built by the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railroad.

Historic Downtown Red LodgeBroadway's 1890s architecture survives intact largely because development died along with the coal mines in the first half of the last century. Today, the old downtown buildings thrive with restaurants and shops catering to tourists.

Lander Main Street The statues along Main Street were cast locally by Eagle Bronze, the country's largest monument foundry. Lander itself is a crucible for cowboy and artistic cultures, hosting both the Pioneer Days Rodeo and the Heart of the West Invitational Art Show.

Mormon Row Historic DistrictAmerica's most pictured barn anchors Mormon Row, a virtually abandoned farming settlement, posed against the perfect backdrop of the Grand Tetons.

National Elk RefugeVisitors ride horse-drawn sleighs to mingle with wintering elk and bison. Shed antlers are collected by Boy Scouts and auctioned in Jackson Town Square the Saturday preceding Memorial Day.

Atlantic City Mercantile Now a steakhouse, this 1893 general store catered to miners scouring streambeds for gold around Atlantic City and sister ghost town South Pass City. You can try your own luck with a steel pan available from hardware stores in gold country.

Crowheart ButteChief Washakie defeated his Crow adver-sary Big Robber in a man-to-man fight to the death here in 1866. The Shoshone victor extracted the heart from the dead Crow leader and paraded it on the point of a lance.

Wind River Indian ReservationThe Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes share this 2.2 million-acre Indian Res-ervation north of Lander. The reservation was established in 1864 through the Bridger-Teton Treaty with the U.S. government.

Gros Ventre SlideFifty million cubic yards of mountainside plunged into the Gros Ventre River in 1925. The debris dam held for two years before breaching, which ruined ranch lands and drowned six people.

The Red DesertEight million acres of rugged beauty are defined by vast expanses of sagebrush, tower-ing buttes, and rainbow colored hoodoos. The Red Desert contains the largest body of active sand dunes in North America and is home to the nation’s largest antelope herd, a desert elk herd, as well as wild horses.

Fossil Butte National MonumentSome of the world's best preserved fossils are found in this cold sagebrush desert. Fossilized fish, insects, plants, reptiles, birds, and mammals are exceptional for their abundance, variety, and detail of preserva-tion. Most remarkable is the story they tell of ancient life in a subtropical landscape.

THE YELLOWSTONE VOLCANO OBSERVATORY (YVO) An instrument-based monitoring facility for observing volcanic, hydrothermal, and earthquake activity in the Yellowstone region. Details: http://volcanoes.usgs.gov/yvo/

The Fires of '88Yellowstone lovers were disheartened in 1988 when wildfire raged across more than a third of the park. Two decades later, healthy young forests of lodgepole pines rise from seed cones activated by heat and nourished by ash.

Hell's Half Acre TrailActually 222 square miles, this frozen ocean of basalt was formed by a succession of lava flows.

North Fork Wildland Fire (Gunbarrel Fire)A dog house was the only private dwelling lost to the 67,000-acre wildfire of 2008. Gains include mineral-rich runoff for the bugs and fishes of the Shoshone River and open habitat for grizzly bears, elk, and bighorn sheep.

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an ecosystem to experience yellowstone and...

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