“study on apparels manufactured from delicate...
TRANSCRIPT
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ABSTRACT
The garment sector has a unique position as a self-reliant industry, from
the production of raw materials to the delivery of end products, with considerable
value-addition at every stage of processing. India can not survive in the foreign
market without exploiting the potential of delicate fabrics which continue to be
very popular in the world of fashion. „Delicate‟ or „Sheer‟ fabrics form a category
of fabrics in which large group of fabrics fall with one common characteristic -
they are all very revealing and transparent. They inspire the finest workmanship.
Due to historical background, India has an advantage and the potential to
develop into a key player in the global market place with sheer fabrics. Some
basic strengths which India possess like traditional weaving and embroidery
skills, rich colors, beautiful patterns and design collection can contribute
immensely in this direction.
Sheer fabrics require some special technique at each and every step of
handling and finishing. A standardized procedure and technique could not be
found in the various sections of garment industry using sheers. In India however,
due to lack of availability and awareness of appropriate equipments and
machineries, manufacturers are suffering from quality related problems and the
workers are troubled with health issues. In spite of availability of suitable
equipments and machineries, there is a need to train and educate workforce who
play an important role in conversion of delicate fabrics into garments. Small
modifications in working conditions, equipments, tool design and working
methods can lead to large benefits.
A need was thus realized to find out the way of working and the problems
involved at various levels in garment industry dealing with delicate fabrics.
Suggestions related to handling, finishing and caring of each sheer fabric is thus
called upon by the Indian industrialist. A few problems could be solved by
creating awareness among manufacturers. Therefore, in the light of above needs
and facts, the study was conducted with the following objectives.
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To understand the manufacturing techniques and machinery involved
in processing of garments made of delicate fabrics.
To identify the problems involved at various levels in garment industry
dealing with delicate fabrics.
To analyze the most suitable techniques and equipment used during
handling and finishing of seven different types of delicate fabrics.
To prepare a catalogue explaining the best method for dealing and
caring of different types of delicate fabrics.
To analyze the acceptability and impact of the prepared catalogue on
production of garments with such fabrics.
In order to fulfill these objectives, a combination of exploratory and
experimental study was planned. The methodology followed was divided into
three phases –
Phase I – In the first phase, a survey was conducted to understand the
manufacturing techniques and machinery involved in processing of sheer
garments. Beside this, health related problems faced by garment manufacturers
were also analyzed. Delhi and NCR region was selected and purposive sampling
technique was used for collecting data.
Total 200 respondents were selected which included 30 export houses
(owner, manager, workers and functional heads of various departments like
store, marking and cutting, sewing, finishing), 10 buying houses, 10 boutiques
and stitching units. The frame work is elaborated in Plate 1(a).
Methodology
Phase I Exploratory
Phase II Experimental
Phase III Dissemination of
information
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Self designed interview schedule, questionnaire and observation method
were used for this purpose. Since people engaged in manufacturing of garments
from delicate fabrics were also suffering from a number of occupational health
hazards, an interview schedule was also designed to collect data related to
health issues from 100 workers working in different departments of 10 export
house. Two individuals from each department namely pattern making, store,
marking & cutting, sewing and finishing were included for this part of study.
Phase II – The data was collected, analyzed and inferences were drawn. Out of
all the problems, few common ones were identified and experiments were done
on them. On the basis of information received from the exploratory stage, few
problems were identified under pre sewing, sewing and post sewing stage.
Amongst these the most abundant problems were seam related problems which
included seam puckering and seam slippage. Experiments were designed to find
out the way to minimize or eliminate these problems.
Seam puckering is defined as a wrinkle, distortion or corrugation of the
sewn fabric running across the seam. It generally appears as if there is too much
fabric and not enough thread in the seam.
Seam slippage of yarn is broadly defined as the sliding or shifting of one
set of thread (Warp or weft) over the other, resulting in some sort of opening in
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the fabrics, under the influence of a load or tension lower than that is normally
required to rupture the fabric itself.
Seven commonly used delicate fabrics were selected for experimental
study. These included silk georgette, poly georgette, viscose georgette, voile, silk
crepe, organdy and silk chiffon. Mechanical and physical properties of these
fabrics were determined. The properties associated with these problems and the
factors responsible for seam related problems for different type of delicate fabrics
were analyzed.
In order to reduce the problems, various manufacturing techniques
adopted by different construction units were compared. Various experiments
were also conducted on the seam related problems. To study the mechanism of
seam puckering, AATCC 88B-1996 test method and for seam slippage ASTM D
1683-90a test method were used. Fabric samples of selected delicate fabrics
were prepared considering various sewing parameters. The sewing parameters
adopted during preparation of samples are given in Table 1 and 2.
Table 1 Constants considered while preparing samples
Thread Stitch
Per Inch
Tread Tension Pressure on
Presser Foot
Height of
Feed Dog
Speed Type of Seam Upper Lower
3 ply spun polyester
thread 12 40CN 20CN 4Kg 0.6mm 4000spm
Single Needle
Lock Stitch
Table 2 Variables considered while preparing samples
Fabric Code Needle
Size ( FG Point)
Presser Foot
Type Feed dog
Angle of feed dog
Throat plate
A( A1- A72) B( B1- B72) C( C1- C72) D( D1- D72) E( E1- E72) F( F1- F72) G( G1- G72)
7
9
11
Simple
Roller
Teflon Coated with
ring
Simple
Teflon coated
Straight
Front up
12 no.
14 no.
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For each fabric samples, A, B, C, D, E, F and G, seventy two specimens
with different combinations of the selected parameters were prepared. Three
readings for each test were conducted. A total of 1512 (7 x 72 x 3) samples were
prepared for seam puckering and the same number of samples was prepared for
seam slippage assessment. Once the different samples were prepared, a
subjective seam puckering assessment (Fig.1 a) was done by four experts. In
case of seam slippage, the prepared samples were tested on tensile strength
tester (Fig. 1 b) and the load required to cause a yarn displacement of 6mm was
calculated. During experiments thus the best combinations of sewing
parameters for stitching delicate fabrics were identified.
Fig 1 (a) Seam puckering judgment scale 5-1 (b) Tensile testing instrument
The frame work of phase 2 and phase 3 is elaborated in Plate 1(b).
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Phase III – This phase dealt with the dissemination of information related to the
most suitable techniques and equipments used during handling and finishing of
different types of delicate fabrics. For suggesting tips regarding construction of
garments, a booklet in form of practical manual and a book were prepared. A
leaflet and a booklet containing information related to preventive measures
regarding various health related issues for workers of industry was designed and
distributed to respondents. Feedback of respondents were taken to analyze the
acceptability and impact of the prepared catalogue on production of garments
with such fabrics.
The present study revealed that more than two third of the respondents
involved in the industry were male. Among the respondents more than half of the
owners, managers and fabricators had an experience of more than 5 years. It
was found that the garment factories and units hardly organized few training
programmes for the upliftment of their employees. The working hours of 32% of
the respondents were more than ten hours per day.
Garments manufactured from delicate fabrics involve many processing
steps, beginning with an idea or design and ending with the finished product. In
the present study few prominent finding emerged.
The patterns were usually made and graded by experienced pattern
masters either manually (70%) or with the use of CAD system (30%).
According to respondents, silk georgette was found to be the most
commonly used delicate fabric in the garment industry. Poly georgette,
chiffon, viscose georgette, nylon and organdy are also popular fabrics
among delicate fabrics.
The delicate fabrics were inspected on white table or fabric inspection
machine using (AAMA) 4-Point system.
Single layer spreading and cutting was practiced in case of
embroidered fabrics (pallas) and multiple layering in case of plain
delicate fabrics or lining materials. Layering or spreading was usually
done manually for delicate fabrics.
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a b c d e f g h
7571.6
48.353.3
66.6
85
78.3
60
0
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20
30
40
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80
90
Perc
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Resp
on
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Problems
a b c d e f g h
7571.6
48.353.3
66.6
85
78.3
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0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Perc
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Resp
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Problems
Due to the transparency of delicate fabrics, the patterns were placed
beneath the fabric layers and marking was done using glass pencils or
chalk. Notches were also applied as balance marks.
Simple shears was used in single layer cutting and in case of multiple
layer rotary cutters, band knife or straight knife cutters were used.
During stitching of delicate fabrics adjustment of sewing parameters
like pressure foot, upper thread tension, lower thread tension, height of
feed dog were usually based on hit and trial methods.
Only 6.6% respondents applied stay stitch on the curved edges of cut
pieces of delicate fabrics. To avoid fraying of edges 26.6%
respondents were also trying anti fraying sprays.
Finishing of seam was done with any one of the seams like french
seam, mock french seam, self bound seam or double stitched seam.
Electric iron and steam iron were used mostly by the respondents for
delicate fabrics.
At the time of survey it was observed that respondents were facing lots
of problems at various stages of garment construction. These problems were
consolidated and are summarized in Fig 2(a), 2(b) and 2(c) –
Fig. 2(a) Problems faced at Pre – Sewing stage
a) Dimensional change
b) Fabric defects & holes
c) Spots and stains
d) Yarn pulling
e) Difficult to stay on flat surface
f) Fraying of edges
g) Difficulty in marking the details
h) Single layer cutting is practiced which is a time
consuming process
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a b c d e
61.6
73.366.6
91.688.3
01020304050
60
70
80
90
100
Perc
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tag
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f
Resp
on
den
ts
Problems
a b c d e
61.6
73.366.6
91.688.3
01020304050
60
70
80
90
100
Perc
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Resp
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ts
Problems
a b c d e
68.3
85
71.6
43.3
63.3
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Pe
rce
nta
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f R
esp
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Problems
a b c d e
68.3
85
71.6
43.3
63.3
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10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Pe
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f R
esp
on
de
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Problems
Fig. 2 (b) Problems faced at Sewing stage
a) Formation of sewing marks during stitching
b) Seam ginning
c) Finished look of garment is difficult to
achieve
d) Seam puckering
e) Seam slippage
Fig. 2 (c) Problems faced at Post – Sewing stage
a) Shape distortion
b) Color fading
c) Marks and other stains
d) Embroidery related defects
e) Unclipped threads hanging
Amongst the various problems at sewing stage, seam puckering was faced by
91.6% respondents. It was then followed by seam slippage 88.3%.
Garment construction related problems at pre – sewing stage was fraying of
edges by 85% respondents.
Along with these garment construction related problems, respondents were
suffering from health related issues. Most common problem related to health
faced by more than sixty percent of the workers in garment manufacturing
units was the musculoskeletal disorder (MSD).
Among the respondents, neck pain was felt by 36.5% followed by pain in
lower back (33.3%), pain in knee (30%), shoulder and hand pain (27%).
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Environmental parameters like temperature, humidity, light and noise at the
place where production of garments with sheer fabrics was done, were found
either not upto the standard or were marginally acceptable.
Respondents suffering from MSD reported repetition of activities, awkward
postures, localized pressure, excessive force, unsatisfactory environmental
conditions and uncomfortable workstation as the cause of health related
problems.
Very few of the workers were aware of protective clothing, or any other
measure like hand glove, thimble, ear plugs and face mask which are meant
to protect from accidents, cuts and injuries during production process.
A large number of respondents suggested exercises as most effective means
to minimize the neck, lower back and shoulder pain. The respondents
suggested relaxation, breaks in repetitive work and modification in furniture by
which they could get rid of musculoskeletal problems.
Since all the problems could not be handled during the study, the
prominent ones like seam puckering and seam slippage were selected for further
experimenting.
Since seam puckering is a major defect when quality and finish of a
garment is considered, parameters like needle size, pressure foot type, feed dog
and its position effect the seam puckering. During experiments optimum
condition of these parameters were studied. Few of the findings of the
experiments related to seam puckering are given below -
In all the cases, use of finer needle (No.7) gave rise to less seam pucker.
However, the effect was least in case of organdy fabric.
In case of fabrics made from filament yarns, Teflon coated pressure foot with
rings gave least seam pucker while in case of fabrics made from spun yarns,
roller type pressure foot gave low seam puckered stitches. The Fig.3 shows
the machine attachment used in experiments.
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Fig. 3 Machine attachments (Pressure foot with ring and with roller)
In most of the fabrics, type of feed dog did not have any significant effect on
seam pucker. However use of teflon coated feed dog to avoid sewing marks
on the sheer fabrics is recommended.
For all the fabrics, front-up position of the feed dog gave slightly low seam
pucker, though this effect was only marginal.
The size of throat plate has some effect on seam pucker. In general, the
seam pucker increased while using bigger throat plate. Hence use of throat
plate no.14 should be avoided in case of delicate fabrics.
Few experiments were also conducted to optimize seam slippage
parameters in order to get right quality of garments. Findings of seam slippage
experiment indicated following results -
Sheer fabrics having lower cover factor, lesser thickness and lesser GSM are
likely to cause more seam slippage.
Amongst the various sewing machine parameters selected for the study of
seam slippage, needle size had the greatest impact on seam slippage.
Experiments suggested that in order to get seams which fulfill the
requirements of good appearance and performance for a particular sheer fabric,
correct selection of sewing thread, needle and other machine parameters needs
to be done. As per the experiments conducted in the present study the most
suitable sewing conditions for the selected delicate fabrics were optimized and
are given in Table 3.
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Table 3 – Most suitable sewing conditions for the selected delicate fabrics
FABRIC
NEEDLE
PRESSURE FOOT TYPE
FEED
DOG*
ANGLE OF FEED
DOG
THROAT PLATE
NUMBER
Silk Georgette
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Poly Georgette
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Viscose Georgette
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Voile
7 or 9 T.C. with rings or roller T.C. or
simple
Front up or
straight 12
Organdy
7,9 or 11 Roller T.C. Front up 12 or 14
Chiffon
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Silk Crepe
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
. *T.C. indicates Teflon coating
In order to disseminate the information gathered through literature, survey
and experiences shared by respondents, the information was compiled. The
results achieved from experiments were organized in the form of booklet/
catalogue, book and leaflet. The prepared material would generate awareness
among people converting delicate fabrics into garments. The prepared aids were
sent to different garment construction units, so that individuals related to this area
could get information regarding most suitable techniques and equipments used
during handling and finishing of different types of delicate fabrics. For this
following material was prepared.
A booklet titled “TIPS FOR HANDLING DELICATE FABRICS WHILE
GARMENT MANUFACTURING” was designed. It consisted of necessary
details in the form of problems faced during garment construction and the
recommended suggestions in the form of solutions. The booklet was made
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available to the heads of different departments in export houses so that they
communicate the information to the workers of their departments. In order to
judge the acceptability of the booklet an acceptability questionnaire was
designed and distributed along with the booklet. The feedback was collected
after three months and it was found that 89% of the respondents indicated
that the problems with suggestions given in the booklet were quiet
appropriate and believed that quality of garments improved after adoption of
the suggestions. The feedback by 86.8% respondents suggested that the
number of alterations and rejections decreased after adoption of suggestions.
After going through the booklet, respondents showed keen interest to gather
more details about garments constructed from delicate fabrics. Keeping this in
mind, a book was planned which comprised of information related to different
delicate fabrics, selection of incoming materials, defects found in delicate
fabrics, quality tests, problems and solutions while manufacturing garments
from delicate fabrics. The book was published under NITRA publications and
was entitled “A GUIDE TO MANUFACTURE GARMENTS USING DELICATE
FABRICS”. It had ISBN: 978-93-81125-11-3 and was delivered to various
manufacturing units and libraries of various institutes and organizations.
To generate awareness amongst the individuals about good posture,
appropriate type of rest and breaks, suitable work environment, workstation
design, signs and symptoms of musculoskeletal disorders, another book titled
“PREVENTION AND CURE OF HEALTH ISSUES FACED BY GARMENT
INDUSTRY” was prepared where in the suggestions given by
physiotherapists were also incorporated. It included the body postures and
exercises for different body parts. The booklet was made available to the
heads of different departments in export houses so that they communicate
the information to the workers of their departments.
Leaflet related to musculoskeletal injuries was designed for workers of
garment construction units. The leaflet had some simple tips and exercises
related to musculoskeletal injuries. The leaflet was in hindi so that workers
could easily understand the suggested tips.
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During the present study it was felt that the Indian garment manufacturers
dealing with delicate fabrics did not have sufficient awareness and knowledge
regarding techniques and machineries which they could use during production.
They had a strong need to enhance knowledge which gives them some ideas
and tips to handle regular problems related to quality of manufacturing of sheer
garments. Various problems which the industry is facing could be minimized by
sharing the experiences regarding procedure and techniques among people
working with sheer fabrics. To avoid seam related problems standardized
techniques need to be outlined. It is recommended that in order to get seams
which fulfill the requirements of good appearance and performance, correct
selection of fabric, sewing thread, needle and machine parameters for all sheer
fabrics need to be done. Beside this, the garment industry should focus and
develop good working conditions to reduce the injuries created to their workers
since there is ample room for ergonomic improvement in the industry. With
proper training and instructions, personal protective equipments, therapeutic
exercises and ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can
manufacture products in safe and healthy workplaces.