APICIUS

APICIUSA CRITICAL EDITION

WITH AN INTRODUCTION ANDAN ENGLISH TRANSLATION OF

THE LATIN RECIPE TEXT APICIUS

CHRISTOPHER GROCOCK and SALLY GRAINGER

with illustrationsby

Dan Shadrake

PROSPECT BOOKS2006

First published in Great Britain in 2006 by Prospect Books, Allaleigh House, Blackawton, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 7DL.

© 2006 edition, text and commentary Christopher Grocock & Sally Grainger.© 2006 illustrations Dan Shadrake.

editors in accordance with the Copyright, Designs & Patents Act 1988. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form of by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright holders.

ISBN 1-903018-13-7

Designed and typeset in Times Roman by Tom Jaine.Printed and bound in Great Britain by The Cromwell Press, Trowbridge.

WINSTONI

FIDELISSIMO

COMITI ET IVDICI

7

PREFACE

Among the many enduring myths about ancient Rome is the view that much of the food consumed at high-status dinner-parties was overwhelmingly corrupt, rotten,

1 The simpler Hellenistic style of cooking, depicted in Archestratus and in some of the fragmentary plays cited in Athenaeus, has been thought of as the original Mediterranean cuisine.2 By contrast, the recipes in Apicius3 have been regarded as a corruption or

supported by the grotesque tastes of emperors such as Vitellius or Heliogabalus, but we do not think it can be sustained from a careful reading of the Apicius

Apicius may appear all too complex and overpowering in their use of seasonings, and contrast with the

1

Art, Culture, and Cuisine. Ancient and Medieval Gastronomy

The Life of Luxury: ArchestratusFood in the Ancient World

The function of elaborate dining as a social ritual is explored by K. M. D. Dunbabin, The Roman Banquet: Images of Conviviality 2 Bober, op. cit., 3 Except in the explicitsindividual of that name, and Apicius

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allegedly more palatable image portrayed in literature of the Greek cuisine which preceded the Roman. However, Greek and Roman food were largely indistin-guishable in the imperial period, above a certain economic class, and Apicius shows that the essence of this international Mediterranean cuisine lay in the

BC

for it is the origin of his protests.1 Archestratus recommended serving foods

the food to shine through. This is an admirable style of cooking, but it does not satisfy an imaginative and experimental palate. As with literary tastes, surprise and complexity of expression came to dominate cuisine. We fully accept that to turn the recipes in Apicius into successful dishes is a tricky business. Their very subtlety is easy to misinterpret, and the results of

temperas is a recurring Apicius

high-status cookery book intended for the cooks of only a small élite in society

the culinary expectations of a wider group in the Roman world who might be 2

This is not a book of recipes to use in a modern kitchen: if you are looking for adapted recipes, use those in Cooking Apicius or The Classical Cookbook.3 Here, we have rather attempted to solve the major problems of the text that in the

techniques and procedures that are unique to this cuisine. We have assumed that the recipes were once perfectly understandable to the cooks who wrote and used them, and our aim has therefore been to translate the text into functional recipes, where at all possible, and to give suggestions where the Latin is obscure. We have tried to make the edition accessible to all who are interested in Roman food, whatever their background, by translating all references to ancient sources

1

2 As Brandt recognized: E. Brandt, Untersuchungen zum Römischen Kochbuche. Philologus, Food in the Ancient

World, p. 208.3 Sally Grainger, Cooking Apicius The Classical Cookbook

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Greek terms have been transliterated. The translation of the text is expanded in parentheses where necessary, to make clear the sense of a text which is often very compacted, and which uses technical phraseology in an idiomatic way. Many of the technical terms are simply untranslatable: no single English word could possible convey the complexity of meaning found in terms unique to ancient cuisine. We have left these terms in italics, and recommend that the reader use

Latinity of Apicius than to others, but we have addressed these linguistic issues in order to inform and illuminate our arguments about the genre of culinary literature which the text represents. Some have asked why it is necessary to have another edition and translation of Apicius. There are numerous works still available, which are discussed in the introduction. Previous editions have been edited and translated either by scholars whose understanding of the technology and processes of the kitchen was limited

who possessed the requisite skills in both areas. We trust that between us we have effectively brought our respective skills to bear on the problems posed by the Apicius text. The text, translation and commentary contained in this volume are the result

practical experiments. Each of these has informed the other on a continuous basis in an iterative process which we believe has been well worth the effort involved. In particular, over a decade of experimental archaeology using replica equipment and trials of the cooking techniques using charcoal and wood has enabled us to understand the recipes to a much greater depth than we did at the start. We trust

Apicius, may prompt further research. Finally, we have to confess that we are to some extent motivated by a concern for the long-dead individuals whose skills and talents have been too often overlooked or misunderstood. Previous editions and translations have concluded,

Latin in the text and therefore to some extent for the recipes themselves. As this

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volume makes clear, we beg to differ. We conclude that Apicius originates not in any redactor or man of letters, but with cooks whose practical skills were perhaps better honed than their linguistic ones. Their care and thought for their

1 is infused in this legacy of the ancient world which they have left behind, though they themselves are unnamed in history and long forgotten.

for the recipes to these ancient cooks.

We are deeply indebted for their generosity and assistance to Dr Andrew Dalby, Professor Alan Davison, Susan Weingarten, Larry G. Simpson, Miriam Mandelbaum and Arlene Shaner of the New York Academy of Medicine, and to Chris Lydamore of Harlow Museum. Particular gratitude is due to our publisher Tom Jaine for his limitless patience and unceasing encouragement, and to Dan Shadrake for the splendid illustrations. We would also like to express our thanks for their patience and professional support to the library staff of the Institute of Classical Studies, the Warburg Institute, the Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana, the Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris, and the British Library. We beg any others

our debt to numerous individuals with whom conversation and debate has borne fruit. Needless to say, we accept full responsibility for any errors or omissions which remain.

CHRISTOPHER GROCOCK

SALLY GRAINGER

1 See Introduction, p. 67.

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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 1. APICIUS AND ITS CONTEXT 13

What is Apicius? 13 For whom was Apicius intended? 23

The ApiciusThe Vinidarius collection 32Apicius

2. COOKS AND ANCIENT COOKERY BOOKS 39The Greek tradition 39

Veterinary texts 61Roman cooks and their recipes 63Conclusion 71

3. COOKING TECHNIQUES IN THE ANCIENT WORLD 73ROMAN WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 83THE LANGUAGE OF APICIUS 86

The vocabulary of cooking techniques 86 The style and grammar of Apicius. 6. EDITORIAL PRINCIPLES AND METHODS 107 7. DESCRIPTION OF THE MANUSCRIPTS AND STEMMA 116 8. PREVIOUS EDITIONS AND STUDIES 120

THE LATIN AND ENGLISH TEXTS OF APICIUS

THE LATIN AND ENGLISH TEXTS OF VINIDARIUS 309

APPENDICES 327 1. A glossary to Apicius 329 2. Original sources on Apicius 363

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3. Named recipes in Apicius 369garum and liquamen 373

ILLUSTRATIONS

patina buried in the hot embers 78

patina with hot embers on the top of the lid as well as below 78

6. A patina functions as a testum 78

7. A testum with a loaf of bread inside 80

8. A testum being used as an oven to cook meat 80

13

INTRODUCTION

1. APICIUS AND ITS CONTEXT

What is Apicius?

The recipe text known as Apicius is the sole survivor of a process of collecting recipes which began long before it reached the form in which we know it, and which certainly continued for a long time afterwards. It is certainly not the work of one author, whether he be gourmet, cook or editor, but a rather haphazard collection assembled over many centuries. From the text as it survives, it is impossible to know who created the particular format, order and titles of Apicius, and when they did it. We can however be sure that the recipes were initially and primarily the work of cooks. The majority of the recipes are written in a style and with a vocabulary that belongs to cooks alone: Apicius

1 In order both to create and to understand the kind of recipes that survive in Apicius, hands-on culinary skills are a prerequisite. It is simply not possible to theorize a recipe without testing it, and this needs skill and experience.

1 De Arte Coquinaria Latin Vulgaire, Latin Tardif: Actes du colloque internationale sur le latin vulgaire et tardif (Pécs, 2-5 Septembre 1985)

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The phenomenon of the amateur cook is a familiar one today: we all dabble in the kitchen and have a basic understanding of the science behind cooking, even if we have varying degrees of success with the outcome. But in the Roman world, the slave economy governed all areas of domestic labour. High-status cooking was very labour-intensive and simply not to be contemplated by the gourmet involved with producing physical pleasure for others as disgraceful.1 It is not impossible to imagine that a high-status gourmet might have broken through that barrier and learned how to cook for the sake of his interest, but it is not likely to have been thought socially acceptable and would have surely resulted in public condemnation. In Satiretheory in order to ridicule gourmets, but this discussion of the minutiae of

and should expect from a gourmet genuinely interested in food.2 The gourmet is interested in the theoretical, not practical, aspect of food before it reaches his table, and is more concerned with selecting produce, thinking up ways to enrich meat before slaughter, knowing where to get the best of everything, and eating the results.3 The activity which takes place between selection and consumption, and which is carried out in the sooty, greasy kitchen, is simply not part of his world.

world appears to be narrative-based: the various attributes of the foods are discussed in general and the recipes are interspersed. Apicius consists almost entirely of lists of recipes without a voice. Such a narrative-free collection is much more suited to the use of cooks and cookery schools than to that of

histories were. Its literary merit is small, and such a collection is hardly likely to perfectly possible, as we will argue,

1 Cicero, 2

3

Apicius. See Pliny, HN. 8.209, 9.66, 10.133.

lasermay have been directed to another cook or to a wider audience such as a gourmet selecting a menu.

INTRODUCTION

15

and distributed for many years among cooks and cookery schools before possibly being appropriated by the literary establishment, either in part or in full, for use in general cookery books compiled and distributed by the literary élite. Recipes could have started their life in collections created and held by cooks and ended up as part of a named cookery book such as that written by Matius.1

An interesting question to ask at this point might be: whose recipes were they? Were recipes included in a literary work by a named author such as Matius regarded as his, or as belonging to others?2 We would argue in any case that the recipes in Apicius us bears no evidence of shaping or tampering by a high-status compiler and/or collator.3

We know that other collections of recipes existed in the empire with the same title, as is demonstrated by the existence of the Excerpta Vinidarii, a small selection of recipes with a spice and ingredient list at the beginning. The identity of Vinidarius is obscure but, as his title indicates, he may have been a high-status functionary in the Roman regime of the late empire. While some of the recipes in the Excerpta are very similar to those in Apicius, others differ markedly in the terms they use and in the spices included. The Latin in the Excerpta is often of a considerably poorer quality than that of Apicius. The phonetic spelling and

Apicius itself, which may have recipes in it of a much earlier period. Some of the recipes in ApiciusAD laser which, according to Pliny the Elder, was extinct by c. AD At 1.10, the instruction to infuse pine nuts in laser may be an indication that the latter was in short supply. Parthian laser does not seem to have been particularly scarce in the later empire, though

d. AD

1 2 BC. The Sybarites in the Gulf of Tarentum enacted a law allowing no one else but the cook-inventor

Empire of Pleasure: Luxury and Indulgence in the Roman World 3

see below, pp. 18ff. On Vinidarius, see p. 32. See Pliny, HN. silphium.

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was notorious for his appetite, and we can plausibly date them to his lifetime or AD

c. AD 1 We might also attribute the recipes given the title Apiciana to the various men known to have born that name, who

AD.2 It is perhaps unsurprising that the majority of the recipes have no evidence within them that could indicate a date

in date, there is no reason to suppose that many more recipes were not also of early date. Some other recipes may hint at an early origin: lucanicae sausages that came from Magna Graecia and were introduced to Rome by the

BC, though the name persists to this day. In addition, any recipe which survives may have had a long

patina BC in Roman menus, and has its origins in a Greek term for a dish or vessel. A similar meal known as a patella tyrotaricha BC.3 Apicius also includes many recipes which are attributed to various apparently

Dating these recipes with any precision is therefore impossible. We can only say that the names with

Because the collection seems to have been developed over a long period of time, the unclassical stylistic features and spellings preserved in the MSS

may indicate the period at which the recipe collection stopped growing. In any

and might be better considered the kind of vulgar Latin spoken and written by the lower classes throughout the Roman era. It its origins. The recipes with a strong link to Apicius, the Apiciana, would seem

1

2 Apiciana 3 Patina: Patella: Cicero, Ad fam. 9.16.9.

Apicius

INTRODUCTION

17

AD by a man called Apion, existed, and it is possible that these recipes originated there.1 An alternative view would be that all the Apiciana recipes are labelled thus because they are considered luxury or sophisticated and they have no direct link with the Apicius legend. The

and their culinary concepts are also of Greek origin. It seems very likely that the order and chapter titles of Apicius were taken from an original Greek recipe book, given the prominence of that language, and that they were devised at an early stage in the evolution of the collection, though it is impossible to prove this.2 However, the fact that Greek culinary tradition was predominant in the early empire makes it likely that many of the original recipes which formed the basis of the Apicius text were originally written in Greek. At that time there was no independent, truly Roman, culinary tradition in high-status Roman society: all available recipe books or general cookery books in the public domain in the late republic and early empire were Greek in origin, if not in language.3 Apicius

Hellenistic collection of recipes at its inception, and continued to be one. The Greek cuisine which arrived in Rome in the second century BC was

middle and late empire, the Apicius collection seems to have evolved, with the addition of many new recipes. Large sections in some books may have been added, particularly in Book 1, which contains some non-domestic recipes for preserving goods in bulk that we might not expect in the original recipe book. The version of Apicius from which the Excerpta Vinidarii was made also appears to have contained simple lists of supplies which a household should keep in stock. It is possible that recipe collections such as these were periodically

1 See below, p. 37. 2

3 We are not suggesting that Greek and Roman food at every level was the same: there might be huge regional differences and specialities from one community to the next depending on local

patinae and minutalia

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rearranged when they were re-copied. In fact, recipe books throughout the ages

the fourteenth century, which is later known as the Viandier of Taillevant, are 1 A similar situation also occurs with

The Art of Cooking composed by the eminent Maestro Martino of Como. One of the three manuscripts has been greatly enlarged by a scribe or gourmet.2

As each new version of the collection was copied, new recipes could be added, written or dictated by cooks who were Greek or Roman, slave or freedman,

They continued to use the same Greek concepts and vocabulary, even though they did not necessarily recognize

3 One might equate this situation to that

created recipes that were basically French in style. Ancient Greece might usefully be compared to France in this scenario, while the rest of Europe including Rome maintains the same position in both eras. During this process the Latin used by the cooks may not have changed very much: they were skilled people and clearly not illiterate, but working men who wrote in a form of Latin that was spoken on the streets and among slaves and labourers, and was always considered inferior to literary Latin by their betters. tion was gathered into its current format at some time during the fourth century AD

including some early Imperial culinary, dietetic and agricultural works.study is limited by his treatment of the recipes purely as text, and he gave no

1 D.E. Scully, T. Scully, Early French Cookery: Sources, History, Original Recipes and Modern Adaptations .2 Luigi Ballerini, The Art of Cookery, the First Modern Cookery Book3 J. Herman, Vulgar Latin to realize that the names of simple utensils and common dishes, were Latin, whereas more comp-

puls and farcimen isicium , embamma

Brandt, Untersuchungen, pp. 30, 36, 130-3.

INTRODUCTION

19

source rather than being gathered in a random ad hoc fashion. Such a mechanical approach was bound to lead to false conclusions. Brandt wished to identify the original sources for the various recipes in the collection, and so he analyzed their

Apicius all contain precise quantites: this led Brandt to compare 1.13 with a

they are vaguely similar, it is not necessary to claim, as he did, that Marcellus was therefore the source of this recipe.1 Brandt also attributed the other remedies in Apicius at 3.18.2 and 3 to Marcellus, using the principle that if one was derived from that work, they all must have been. He then concluded that recipes which use precise quantities must also be from a medical work, even though they give no other indication to support such an origin. Those recipes which use Greek terms were also attributed to a Greek dietetic cookbook.2 As we have already suggested, we think that the use of Greek terms denotes the primary and original source for the recipes, rather than late additions to an already-exisiting collection. The use of quantities in itself does not necessarily indicate medical recipes, and their inclusion seems to be more about the choice

3

and polished, and the recipes themselves, he suggested, are more concerned with the cellarman than the cook, and seem out of place in a recipe book.4 It

1 Brandt, Untersuchungen2 Brandt, Untersuchungen, pp. 38, 132-3.3 patinaeThey all use precise quantities, while other recipes of a similar nature do not. They also use the Greek term thermospodium

Untersuchungen Brandt, Untersuchungen, p. 37.

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< III, IIII, V, VI DESVNT >

<VII. IN ANSERE.>anserem elixum calidum ex iure frigido Apiciano: teres piper ligusticum

anserem elixum feruentem sabano mundo exsiccabis, ius perfundis et inferes.

VIII. IN PULLO. [6.8.1] elixo ius crudum: adicies in mortarium aneti semen mentam siccam

modicum et oleum, defrito temperas et sic mittis.[6.8.2] pullum anetatum: mellis modice, liquamine temperabis. leuas pullum

cum conuiuerit assabis et suo sibi iure pinnis tangis. piper aspersum inferes.[6.8.3] pullum Particum: pullum aperies a naui et in quadrato ornas. teres piper ligusticum carei modicum, suffunde liquamen, uino temperas. conponis in cumana pullum et condituram super pullum facies. laser uiuum in tepida dissoluis, et in pullum mittis simul et quoques. piper aspersum inferes.

pullum oxizomum: olei acetabulum maiorem, <uini> satis modice, liquaminis acetabulum minorem, aceti acetabulum perquam minorem, piperis scripulos sex, petrosilenum scripulum, porros fasciculum.

pullum Numidicum: pullum curas, elixas, leuas, laser ac piper <aspergis> et assas. teres piper cuminum coriandri semen laseris radicem rutam careotam

amulo obligas, pullum perfundis, piper aspergis et inferes.

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2. <VII. IN ANSERE> Hum 3. ex G: et VE E1 7. VIII in l/h marg. V | IN PVLLO <in pullo> Hum 8. sinapis Hum 9. defricto V 10. <aliter> pullum anethatum Bra2 | modico et GiVo | leuas Sch: lauas VE 11. combibat Hum 12. cum conuiuerit V: cum uiuerit E: cum combiberit Hum | pinnis VE: penitus Vo | tangis P: tongis V: ton.gis E: pertangis Hum 13. particum E: partium V VE1 | laser uiuum Vo: laser et uinum VE | in tepida Bas: interidas VE: radas Sch 16. coques E 17. oleum E | <uini> CGSG: <laseris> Gi: lacuna André 19. scripulis sex V | petrosilinum E | scripulum MD: scriptulum VE 20. NVMIDVM V | leuas Bra2: lauas VE | laser ac André: laseras VE: lasere ac GiVo | <aspergis> GiVo 22. ferbuerit E2: feruuerit V, E1

1 temperas with liquamen or some form of Roman wine. Temperas liquamen and a little

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(Sections 3, 4, 5, 6 are missing)

6.7. GOOSE.Hot boiled goose in a cold Apician sauce: pound pepper, lovage, coriander

liquamen 1 Dry the hot boiled goose with a clean towel, pour the sauce on and serve.

6.8. CHICKEN.6.8.1. Uncooked sauce for boiled chicken: put dill seed, dried mint, and laser root into a mortar, pour on vinegar, add date, pour on liquamen, a little mustard

defrutum and use as it is.6.8.2. Chicken in dill sauceliquamen. Take the cooked chicken out of the pan and dry it with a clean towel.

when it has absorbed it, roast it and baste it with the sauce using its feathers. Serve sprinkled with pepper.6.8 3. Parthian chicken: draw the chicken from the rear and cut it into quarters. Pound pepper, lovage, a little caraway, pour on liquamenArrange the chicken pieces in a ceramic dish, put the sauce over the chicken. Dissolve fresh laser in warm water2 and put it straightaway on the chicken and cook it. Sprinkle with pepper and serve.

Chicken in a sour sauce: a generous cup of oil, just enough wine,3 a small cup of liquamen, a very small cup of vinegar, 6 scruples of pepper, 1 scruple of parsley, and a bundle of leek.

Numidian chickensprinkle with laser and pepper and roast it. Pound pepper, cumin, coriander seed, laser liquamen

chicken, sprinkle with pepper and serve.

oil in the recipe are governed by refundis and so it appears to have been used in the simple sense

i.e. with a sweet wine or sharp vinegar as required. 2 See the Glossary, laser, for discussion of the term uiuum.3 satis modice is an odd combination of qualifying instructions, which we interpret as being

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[6.8.6] pullum laseratum: pullum aperies a nabi, lauabis, ornabis et in cumana ponis. teres piper ligusticum laser uiuum, suffundis liquamen, uino et liquamine temperabis, et mittis pullum. coctus si fuerit, piper aspersum inferes.[6.8.7] pullum paroptum: laseris modicum, piperis scripulos sex, olei acetabulum, liquaminis acetabulum, petrosileni modice.[6.8.8] pullum elixum ex iure suo: teres piper cuminum timi modicum feniculi

teres. melle aceto liquamine et oleo temperabis. pullum refrigeratum et mittis siccatum, quem perfusum inferes.[6.8.9] pullum elixum cum cucurbitis elixis: iure supra scripto, addito sinape, perfundis et inferes.[6.8.10] pullum elixum cum cologasiis elixis: supra scripto iure perfundis et inferes. farcies inelixum etiam oliuis columbaribus, non ualde ita ut laxamentum habeat ne dissiliat dum quoquitur in ollam submissus in sportellam. cum bullierit, frequenter leuas et ponis ne dissiliat.[6.8.11] pullus Vardanus: pullum quoques iure hoc: liquamine oleo uino

ciatos duos et ius de suo sibi subfundis et fasciculos proicies. lac temperas et reexinanies [in] mortarium supra pullum, ut ferueat. obligas eundem aluamentis ouorum tritis, ponis in lance et iure supra scripto perfundis. hoc ius candidum appellatur.[6.8.12] pullum Frontonianum: pullum praedura, condies liquamine oleo mixto, cui mittis fasciculum aneti porri satureiae et coriandri uiridis, et quoques. ubi coctus fuerit leuabis eum, in lance defrito perungues, piper aspargis et inferes.

10

20

1. RASSERATVM V | aperies Hum: asperges VE | in : om. VE E | modic E 8. melle VE: mel Hum | et oleo D: ex oleo VE | siccatum mittis Hum 11. perfundis Hum: piper fundis VE 12. cologasiis VE: colocasiis TP 13. farcies inelixum etiam CGSG: facit et in elixam et in VE: facis et in elixa et in Vo: lacuna after et in André, with two recipes combined | columbaribus V: columbaribis E: columbadibus Hum: lacuna after this word Vo E | olla T | sportella GiVo Sch: lauas VE 16. Varianus Hum | coques E 17. <cui mittis> fasciculum GiVo | satureiae Hum: satureia VE 18. suffundis E 19. in del. Sch 21. apellatur E1 22. Frotitonianum E1 23. satureiae : satureia VE | coques E Hum: lauabis VE

1 We have emended the MSS readings considerably here: the text is very corrupt. We assume that columbaribus is an odd spelling for oliuae columbades

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6.8.6. Chicken in a laser sauce: draw the chicken from the rear, wash it and dress it and arrange in a ceramic dish. Pound pepper, lovage, fresh laser, pour on liquamen liquamen and put over the chicken. When it is cooked, serve sprinkled with pepper.6.8.7. Roast chicken: a little laser, 6 scruples of pepper, a cup of oil, a cup of liquamen, a little parsley.6.8.8. Chicken boiled in its own sauce: pound pepper, cumin, a little thyme, fennel seed, mint, rue, laserwith honey, vinegar, liquamen and oil. Cool and dry the chicken and serve in the sauce.6.8.9. Boiled chicken with boiled gourds: pour the sauce written above, with the addition of mustard, over the chicken and serve.6.8.10. Boiled chicken with boiled taros: pour over the sauce written above and serve. You can also stuff the un-boiled bird with preserved olives,1 but not with too many, so that some space remains and it does not burst while it is cooking in the pot, lowered there in a basket. When it is boiling lift it out and replace it frequently so that it does not burst.2 6.8.11. Vardanian chicken:3 cook the chicken with this sauce: a bundle of leek, coriander and savory, in liquamentwo cups of pine nuts, and pour on the cooking liquor and discard the bundle. Blend with milk and pour the contents of the mortar over the chicken and bring it to heat. Thicken it with beaten white of egg. Place the chicken on a serving dish and pour the sauce written above over it. This is called a white sauce.6.8.12. Frontonian chickenmixture of liquamen and oil, to which you add a bundle of dill, leek, savory and green coriander and cook it. When it is cooked, lift it out, drizzle defrutum over it on the serving dish, sprinkle with pepper and serve.

from the Greek kolumbades elaai. Food in the Ancient World, p. 238.2 6.8.10 has been interpreted as two recipes by FR and André. It is very poorly preserved, yet does make more sense gathered together as one recipe. It seems to be referring to a galantine rather than to a whole chicken. An un-boned chicken would not be in danger of bursting, while one completely free of bone and possibly stitched together would certainly need this special treatment.

bone the capon or chicken required. 3

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[6.8.13] pullus tractogalatus: pullum quoques liquamine oleo uino, cui mittis fasciculum coriandri, cepam. deinde cum coctus fuerit leuabis eum de iure suo et mittis in caccabum nouum lac et salem modicum, mel et aquae minimum,

mel et defritum modicum et ius de suo sibi. temperas. in caccabulo facies ut bulliat. cum bullierit, amulo obligas et inferes.

pullus farsilis: pullum sicut in iure cuminato. a ceruice expedies. teres piper ligusticum gengiber pulpam cesam aliquam elixam, teres cerebellum ex

inpensam et imples pullum uel porcellum ita ut laxamentum habeat. similiter in capo facies. ossibus eiectis coques.

pullus leocozumus: accipies pullum et ornas ut supra. aperies illum a pectore. †…accipiat aquam et oleum Spanum abundans. agitatur ut ex se amulet et humorem consumat…† postea, cum coctus fuerit, quodcumque porri remanserit inde leuas. piper aspargis et inferes.

EXPLICIT TROPETES LIBER SEXTUS

10

1. quoques V, E1: coques E2 | oleum V 2. leuabis Hum: lauabis VE 3. aqu minimum E: aquam eminimum V del. Bra2 E | carptum Hum: cariotum VE 7. defritum Hum: defrito VE 9. farsilis Hum: fusilis VE | sicut in iure cuminato CGSG: sicut ilique cuminatum VE: sicuti liquaminatum Bra3 | acer uice VE 10. gingiber E | pulpam P: pulpem V2,E: pulpe V1 | aliquam VE: alicam Ven: capso VE VE place pullus leocozomus after a pectore: Lis puts these words before accipies | obeli and lacunae CGSG 16. spanus E 17. amulet Bas: ambulet VE | porro P, GiVo 18. leues E 19. VI E

1

chicken into one mass. The second sauce is also thickened with starch but would be relatively

2 Our conjecture here attempts to make some sense of the MSS reading sicut ilique cuminatum. The problem with the recipe is that neither cumin nor a sauce are indicated in the recipe itself, and if we try to imitate the pattern of instructions found in other recipes, a sauce is needed. cuminatum

FR, André and Milham all follow Brandt, who

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6.8.13. Chicken cooked with milk and tracta: cook the chicken in liquamen, oil, and wine, to which you add a bundle of coriander, and onion. Then when it is cooked, lift it from the cooking liquor. Then put in a new pan milk, a little

so that it warms through. Crumble tracta and sprinkle them in gradually, stir constantly so that it does not burn. Put the chicken in whole or jointed. Turn out on to a serving dish and pour on this kind of sauce:1

pour on honey and a little defrutum and some of the cooking liquor. Balance the

and serve. Stuffed chicken:2

sauce. Draw the chicken from the neck, pound pepper, lovage, ginger, chopped meat, boiled alica, all to make a smooth mixture. Flavour with liquamen and a little oil, add whole

piglet in such a way that some space remains. You can do the same with a capon. Cook with the bones taken out.

Chicken in a white sauce:3 take a chicken and dress as above. Open the bird at the breast. †...let it have water and plenty of Spanish oil, shake it so that it thickens itself and takes away the humours….† Afterwards, when it is cooked, take out any leek that happens to remain. Sprinkle with pepper and serve.

liquamenlogical connection between cumin sauce and the way that the bird is prepared.3 From leukos Spanus is Late Latin for Hispanus

is also found as a substitute for Hispanus Sertorius This recipe has lost its central section and is beyond retrieval. The title bears no relation to the

method, which is itself fragmentary. consumere if the dressing of oil and water is thickened by being shaken together, but this hardly seems possible if it is inside the chicken! The MSS ambulet is either a Late Latin variant spelling for amulet,

plumbum or columba, or an unfortunate