arsutoria school · 2018. 11. 23. · the arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully...

ARSUTORIASCHOOLSHOE COURSES 2019

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Shoe Courses in Milan 4DESIGN COURSES

Shoe design - 4 weeks 4Startup your shoe brand - 3 days 6Shoe 3D digital design - 4 weeks 7

PATTERN MAKING COURSESShoe pattern making and prototyping - 12 weeks 8Shoe advanced pattern making - 4 weeks 10

SHOE MAKING COURSESShoe making: sneakers, sandals, pumps, laced-up - 4 weeks 11

The art of shoemaking in the United States 12Dress and casual shoes, New York and Los Angeles - 1 week 12Casual and outdoor shoes, Boston - 1 week 14

Online shoe course 16

Bag Courses in Milan 17

Apartments for Students 18

Enrolment, Payment and Refund Policy 19

Arsutoria School course offering for 2019

4

Shoe designAIMED AT THOSE WHO WISH TO WORK AS FOOTWEAR DESIGNERS AND AT THOSE WHO WISH TO LAUNCH THEIR SHOE BRAND

Target studentsThis course is dedicated to:

• those who wish to work as designers in a shoe company and decide to take a short course because they have already a degree in fashion design or because they are already working, and they cannot take a longer design course

• those who are planning to start a shoe brand - even if they do not have a background in shoes - and they wish to better understand how to manage the design of their shoes. We suggest these students to also take the 3 days “startup your shoe brand” course

• those who have a shoe company and after taking the 12 week course decide to take this course too to better understand the design process

Topics covered during this courseMARKETING AND IDENTITY OF THE BRAND

Who is your customer, which is the identity of the brand are all key elements to focus the design. Our teachers explain these topics starting from real and up-to-dated examples of contemporary brands through the analysis of catwalks, promotional campaigns, product design and retail stores. Each student is challenged to develop a design project starting from the identity of the brand, this project will be presented during the last day of the course.

FROM MERCHANDISING TO SHOE DESIGNThe merchandising plan is a fundamental tool for the modern organizations to focus the creative ideas into a marketing and sales framework. Once a merchandising plan is prepared students are guided through the process that leads to shoe design:

• understand time and action calendar of a footwear collection from design to retail, different roles and functions involved in the process in more structured organizations

• focus your design idea and search for trend inspirations • build a footwear line based on the framework of a merchandising plan

MATERIALS FOR SHOE DESIGNMaterials play a key role in shoe design. For this reason, we have decided to dedicate two entire days to analyze materials available today on the market. If you are a start-up business or if you work in a shoe brand it is important to understand how to interact with material suppliers, how to choose and source materials from their catalogue or how to develop new materials with them.

SHOE SKETCHINGA designer needs to have unique ideas to differentiate his/her shoes in today’s market, but it is also extremely important that the designer is able to express the creative ideas with a clear and understandable drawing. During this course we dedicate approximately 80 hours to design shoes. First with paper and pencil: students make drawing of different styles of shoes, including sketches of lasts, insoles, heels and outsoles of various kind. Then our teachers teach how to use Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator the two software most commonly used to design shoes today. Students are usually amazed by the results they can obtain after these 80 hours. Participants with very limited or no drawing ability could make nice and proportioned drawing of shoes thanks to the method taught by our teachers.

DESIGN COURSE

BEGINNER/INTERMEDIATE

TUITION FEES

€ 3500,00VAT EXEMPT

DURATION

4 WEEKS140 HOURS

CLASS TIMES

MONDAY - FRIDAY9AM - 5PM

INTAKES

APRIL 3RD - MAY 3RD 2019JULY 1ST - JULY 26TH 2019NOVEMBER 18TH - DECEMBER 13TH 2019

5

MANUFACTURING A SHOE COLLECTIONWorking with factories is a critical aspect of shoe design. During this course we will dedicate one day to analyze the relationship with factories when it comes to make prototypes, samples for sales and production.This topic is even more important for start-up businesses, for this reason we have created a 3-day dedicated course.

FINAL ASSESSMENTEach student will present his/her draft collection to the entire class for a final evaluation. The draft prepared for the final presentation can then be used by the participants as their portfolio.The Arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully complete this final exam.

Additional notesIf you have time enough to stay in Arsutoria school for at least 16 weeks, we suggest taking this course after the 12-week class. The technical course supplies a great understanding of shoes and this is a real value in design. Being technically skilled gives a designer a superior awareness and ability to interact with shoe manufacturers.

If you take this course together with the 12-week pattern making you can pay a discounted rate of € 2700 (VAT exempt)

Students are required to bring their own laptop to better work on their final presentation. There is no need to own the licenses of Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop because they are available on the computers of the School.

6

DESIGN COURSE


Startup your shoe brandA 3-DAY CONSULTANCY COURSE WHERE STARTUP BRANDS LEARN HOW TO APPROACH THE DESIGN OF THEIR FIRST COLLECTION AND HOW TO WORK WITH FACTORIES

Target studentsThis course has been created for those who wish to launch their own brand of shoes and wish to know more on how to manufacture their shoes in Italy or in Europe, how to avoid the main mistakes due to lack of experience, how to make an efficient starting in order to get competitive on the market from the beginning

Topics covered during this courseHOW TO SELECT A FACTORY (AND BE SELECTED)

It’s not easy for a new designer to find a factory that is willing to produce his/her shoes. Working with a new designer is an investment of time and reasources in the development with limited expectations for production. It is then important to understand what kind of expectations factories have when they meet a new designer. How to create and to maintain an effective relationship to grow business together. Half a day will be dedicated to visit a factory in the area of Parabiago or Vigevano

DESIGN STRATEGIESIs it possible to understand which designs are going to sell and those that are not? When a shoe design makes manufacturing more difficult? What drives shoe costs high without adding value to the product? What makes fitting worse?

MATERIALS SOURCING Strategies to choose materials and components when you are a start-up business. Focus on lasts, heels, soles, cost/amortization of development and moulds. Working with tanneries and suppliers of fabrics and synthetics: how to manage the lead-times and the minimum order quantities.

Additional notesThe course is made in partnership with ARISE.S a consulting studio - specialized in start-ups - run by experienced professional that every day face problems and find solution on working with new brands. We accept a maximum number of 10 students in each class to facilitate the interaction with the teacher. Participants will receive instructions on documents/materials that have to be ready before the beginning of the course and that will be discussed during the class hours.

TUITION FEES


DURATION

3 DAYS21 HOURS

CLASS TIMES

MONDAY - WEDNESDAY9AM - 5PM

INTAKES

MAY 6TH - 8TH 2019JULY 29TH - 31ST 2019DECEMBER 16TH - 18TH 2019

7

DESIGN COURSE


Shoe 3D digital designA FULL IMMERSION COURSE ON MODELLING AND RENDERING YOUR SHOE DESIGNS USING CUTTING-EDGE 3D

Target students This course has been developed for:designers looking for a job in a 3D design teamthose that took the pattern making course and wish to apply to jobs in companies that use 3D CAD

Topics covered during this course3D LAST AND FLATTENED BASE

The first step is to receive the file of the last or to digitize a physical last. In Arsutoria School we have a laser scanner for lasts and we will show students both the digitalization process and how to work a file received from a last maker. After the last has been imported students learn how to apply modifications to the last to make the flattening more accurate or to extend the last in case they need to design a (low) boot. Students then learn how to make a flattened base and how to cut it and test it on the physical last.

3D DESIGN The second step is to draw the style lines on the 3D last in the CAD environment. Then a footwear cad requires to create (virtual) patterns. These patterns do not need to be technically accurate, but they are the elements needed to apply materials to the different parts of the shoe.Apart from the upper, the designer needs to learn how to design a heel/sole and how to include other elements such as metal hardware (e.g. eyelets, studs and buckles), create paddings (e.g. for sneakers), insert logos and writings. Most of these elements can be designed in the software or they can be imported from other 3D modelling tools. Students will learn how to import and adapt files of soles from outsole designers or from mould/sole makers.

MATERIALS AND RENDERINGOne day of the course will be dedicated to the use of a rendering software and to the creation of digital materials. There are different ways to manage materials: they can be scanned with a traditional simple flat scanner and they can also be digitized with advanced scanners. After a file of each material is created it is possible to import both the materials and the 3d design of the shoe in a rendering software and prepare images similar to pictures of real samples.

OTHER 3D DESIGN TOOLSDuring the course students use ICad3D+ software that is a tool dedicated to 3D shoe design and technical development. During the course we will also teach how to use a general purpose tool (such as Rhinoceros) to design components like heels or metal parts.

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT One week will be dedicated to explain the process of translating the 3D design into a 2D technical project using iCad3D+. Students will learn that the 2D patterns automatically created by the shoe CAD software need to be worked and often changed to be technically ready for cutting. Students of the 12 week pattern making course can highly benefit from this part of the course because they will be able to apply their knowledge with the CAD tools to make the patterns.

Additional notesStudents that took the 12-week pattern making and prototyping course can attend this course at the discounted rate of € 2700 (VAT exempt)

TUITION FEES


DURATION

4 WEEKS140 HOURS

CLASS TIMES


INTAKES

JANUARY 7TH - FEBRUARY 1ST 2019JUNE 3RD - JUNE 28TH 2019OCTOBER 21ST - NOVEMBER 15TH 2019

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Shoe pattern making and prototypingTHE 12 WEEK SHOE PATTERN MAKING CLASS IS THE FUNDAMENTAL OF OUR TRAINING THAT WE SUGGEST TO BOTH DESIGNERS AND TECHNICIANS

Target students70 years ago, when ARSUTORIA school started to organize this 3-month course, the main objective was to train pattern makers, the engineers of the product of a shoe factory that often were also responsible for the design of the shoes. If you visit a shoe company around the world today – it might be a shoe factory, a shoe brand or a design or development studio - most likely you will find someone working in the company that studied at our school. Today we still train those who wish to become pattern makers but we also train:

• the new generation of the shoe company owners, who usually have a business background and take our courses because of our reputation and since they can get a huge amount of knowledge in a short period of time

• technical developers, else said those who work side by side with the technicians of the overseas factories to coordinate and control the quality of the shoe productions

• designers who wish to understand what happens “behind the scenes” when they send their design to a factory, those who value the possibility to share a common language with the technicians in the factories to better interact with them

• makers of shoes, those who wish to start a workshop or that already have an experience in the field of shoe repair or as bespoke shoe manufactures and wish to learn how to make patterns and develop new styles

Topics covered during this coursePATTERN MAKING

The majority of class hours is dedicated to upper pattern making techniques. We have one objective: each student graduated from this course – no matter what he/she will do after this training - should be able to start working in a pattern making department of a shoe factory right after the end of the course. The course covers the development of the patterns by following a sequence of shoe styles starting from the more classic ones such as pump, ballerina, derby, Oxford and loafer. The working method starts with the analysis of the measures of the last, then students are taught how to cover the last with the masking tape, remove the tape and flatten it to create the base of the last, apply the springs to the base according to the style, draw the style lines on the flattened base and finally prepare the patterns with all the technical details needed to cut them and to use them throughout the assembly process. Then cut the patterns, first on a light paper that we use for a preliminary test and then on a microfiber or on the real materials. We believe that even the more advanced shoe innovation has to be based on a solid foundation and that is why we keep on teaching the classic styles. While making the patterns, students also learn classic measures, traditional proportions, how to place the correct style lines on a last and how to use different materials starting from leathers to textiles and synthetic materials. Once these foundations are laid, the learning path brings students to a more advanced level with the study of more difficult designs such as: more complicated pumps and challenging lace-up shoes together with simple and asymmetric sandals, ankle boots and boots.Those students that are determined to make a further step ahead in the knowledge of the pattern making techniques can take the 5-week advanced pattern making course where other shoe styles are covered: moccasins, strobel and sacchetto constructions.

2D CADThose students that wish to learn how to use a 2D CAD - and they do not want to take the entire 5-week advanced course - can take just one (the last) week of the 5-week advanced course that is focused on the use of 2D CAD for footwear pattern making. This opportunity is subject to availability of seats in the 5-week course and has an additional price of € 800,00 (VAT exempt)

PATTERN MAKING COURSE


TUITION FEES


DURATION

12 WEEKS420 HOURS

CLASS TIMES


INTAKES

JANUARY 7TH - MARCH 29TH 2019APRIL 3RD - JUNE 28TH 2019AUGUST 27TH - NOVEMBER 15TH 2019

9

KNOWLEDGE OF MATERIALS During the course, teachers organize lectures on different topics:

• lasts and proportions: no doubt the last is a key component of a shoe. It is fundamental that our students have at least a basic knowledge of the proportional measures of the lasts and of the different methods used to name sizes and widths internationally

• leathers: Italy is known for leather shoes and we honour our heritage with a number of hours dedicated to how leathers are produced (we also visit a tannery before the end of the course), what kind of leathers/animals and finishings are available on the market, how to use leather in production: how to assess the quality of a leather and how to cut the patterns in order to reduce consumptions and to preserve aesthetics and quality of the shoe

In February and October, we bring our students to the Lineapelle fair that takes place in Milan. Lineapelle is by far the most important fair for shoe and bag professionals to source materials. At this fair our students can see all kind of materials available on the market: leathers, textiles/fabrics, synthetics/man-made, metal hardware, lasts, heels and soles, etc. It is a unique experience also to create a network of contacts with the most important material suppliers.

SHOE CONSTRUCTIONS All the patterns taught during the 12-week course are produced with a board lasted / cemented construction : once the patterns are cut and stitched together, the key step of their production is the “lasting” an operation that can be performed both manually and with the use of an automatic lasting machine that attaches the bottom part of the upper to an insole board fixed to the last.There are other different constructions used in the industry and we believe that our students have to know them because most likely that will need to deal with them along their career. Teachers organize lectures with pictures and videos to explain the other shoe constructions available. Just to mention the three families that group most of them: stitched (e.g. Goodyear and Blake), injected, vulcanized soles.Before the end of the course we also visit a shoe factory in the near areas of Vigevano and Parabiago where high end shoes are produced for luxury brands such as Chanel, Hermes, Louboutin, Manolo Blahnik

MAKING SHOE PROTOTYPES Inside the facilities of Arsutoria School we have set up a footwear sample room where a team of Italian technicians guide our students through the unique experience of making shoes. We organize a lecture in the sample room with our stitcher dedicated to the edge finishings. The knowledge of these technical details is extremely important not only for pattern makers but also for shoe designers. We also organize a lecture on the correct use of threads for stitching. During the last weeks of the course students are challenged to prepare the patterns to create the prototype of a shoe from their design. The school supplies all materials needed to make the prototype, including lasts, leathers, heels and soles. Students works side-by-side with the school stitcher to prepare uppers and linings. Once uppers are ready, our technicians show the students how equipments are used to assemble a shoe: toe and back lasting, pounding and bottom roughing, heel nailing and sole attaching. For those students wishing to learn more of shoe manufacturing we are launching a new set of course in 2019. During these courses students will learn the basics of how to use machines from stitching to lasting. One very important topic of shoe making is finishing. During the last week of the course we spend a day at the shoe finishing laboratory of Kenda Farben where students can apply different finishing to their prototypes with the support of the company specialists.

FINAL ASSESSMENTOnce the prototypes of the students are made our teachers organize a day dedicated to fit testing of each prototype. The result of the fit testing is part of the final evaluationDuring the course the teachers give students assignments (patterns to be done without their support) that are evaluated. Only those students who show positive results in the majority of these assignments can take the final assessment that is:

• a written test on pattern making rules and on the contents of the theoretical lessons

• a practical exercise: students have to make the patterns of a given design• a final interview

The Arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully complete this final exam.

10

PATTERN MAKING COURSE

INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED

Shoe advanced pattern makingAN INTENSIVE COURSE TARGETED AT STUDENTS WHO WANT TO CHALLENGE THEMSELVES WITH ADVANCED TECHNICAL PATTERNS AND LEARN HOW TO USE 2D CAD FOR PATTERN MAKING

Target studentsThis course is dedicated to those who wish to work as pattern makers in a shoe factory and to all those who wish to get to a more advanced level in pattern making.

Topics covered during this courseADVANCED PATTERN MAKING

In the 12-week course students have learned the foundations of pattern making for cemented constructed shoes. During this 4-week course students are guided through other constructions.Moccasins: in this course, students will learn the method to make the base of the tubular moccasin, the development of “boat” style and the “driver” style for man and woman. After making the patterns, students make prototypes using microfiber and then leather. Moccasins are extremely exciting because students can make their prototypes and we teach them how to hand stitch them. The final prototype made is a real shoe with a rubber sole and all reinforcementsStrobel is a construction commonly used in the athletic industry which is becoming increasingly more popular in the casual segment (other than being used for outdoor and safety shoes). We teach how to make patterns of two different constructions: the strobel on the edge and the narrowed one. Students have their prototypes made in the shoe sample room of the school where our technicians can stitch with the strobel machine. Students use the microfibers for the first prototypes and then they use materials used in real production: not only leather for dress sneakers but also mesh, fused films and technical textiles.

2D CAD PATTERN MAKINGIn 2019 we have decided to include 40 hours dedicated to 2D pattern making. We will teach the use of Shoemaster starting from the digitalization of the flattened shell to the creation of the technical patterns until the cutting on the cutting table available in our school sample room. The reason for adding these 40 hours to this class is that all the factories today need pattern makers able to use 2D CAD. Students wishing to learn the 3D design and 3Dtechnical CAD can take the 4-week course dedicated to that.

FINAL ASSESSMENTThe final assessment will be based on the evaluation of the accuracy of the patterns developed during the entire course.The Arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully complete this final exam.

Additional notesThere are only 10 seats available in each of the three classes that we organize during the year. For this reason, this course can only be attended by students who successfully completed the 12-week pattern making course or the Saturday morning course for workers.

TUITION FEES


DURATION

4 WEEKS140 HOURS

CLASS TIMES


INTAKES

APRIL 3RD - MAY 3RD 2019JULY 1ST - JULY 26TH 2019NOVEMBER 18TH - DECEMBER 13TH 2019

11

MAKING COURSE


Shoe making: sneakers, sandals, pumps and laced-upSPEND FOUR WEEKS WITH EXPERT ITALIAN SHOE MAKERS AND LEARN HOW TO MAKE SHOES

Target students These courses have been developed for:

• pattern makers willing to learn the basics of stitching and lasting a pair of shoes. This knowledge gives a pattern maker a better understanding of what happens when the patterns are worked in the manufacturing plant and will facilitate the interaction with the workers of a factory

• “makers” designers, artisans, and not only, who are passionate to be hands-on and who wish to be able to make a simple prototype of a shoe and walk away at the end of the course with the pair of shoes they have made

Topics covered during this courseDuring the 4-week course the students work on a precise sequence of styles and constructions that guide them through an increasing difficulty of hands-on making: in the beginning they make a strobel sneaker that requires no lasting. Students start with the cutting of the materials using patterns supplied by the school, then they prepare the leather patterns with splitting and skiving, stitch the upper together and make the strobel stitching (on the edge) with the strobel machine and then attach a cup-sole. Second step is to make a flat sandal that requires hand lasting. It is a valuable exercise to understand the basics of lasting. Sandals are made for man and woman. The third style is a high heel pump (only woman): limited number of pieces to be stitched together, but lasting is made part with machines and part by hand. Then bottom roughing and pounding, heel nailing and sole attaching and pressing. The last style is a laced-up shoe (derby or Oxford for man and woman): the patterns are more complicated to stitch, then lasting with machines and bottom (unit with welt) attaching. During the making course each student chooses a pair of lasts and soles of his/her size and he/she will select leathers from the selection available at the school. Patterns of each size will be available before the beginning of the class so that each student can have a set of patterns that can keep after the end of the course. Those students that wish to know more on how patterns are made can take the 12 week pattern making course and additionally the 5 week advanced pattern making class

Modules

Additional notesWe have limited the number of seats in each class to 10 students because “making” requires a much closer interaction with the teachers.Students with a very limited time available can take only part of the course. This is subject to the number of seats available: preference will be given to those that take the entire course. The price of the single week is € 1500 (VAT exempt)

TUITION FEES


DURATION

4 WEEKS140 HOURS

CLASS TIMES


INTAKES

MAY 6TH - MAY 31ST 2019SEPTEMBER 23RD - OCTOBER 18TH 2019

SANDALS WEEK 2

MAY 13 - 17 2019SEPT. 30 - OCT. 4 2019

SNEAKERS WEEK 1

MAY 6 - 10 2019SEPTEMBER 23 - 27 2019

LACED-UP WEEK 4

MAY 27 - 31 2019OCTOBER 14 - 18 2019

PUMPS WEEK 3

MAY 20 - 24 2019OCTOBER 7 - 11 2019

12

TECHNICAL COURSE

FOR DESIGNERS, PRODUCT DEVELOPERS, MATERIAL SOURCING EXPERTS, MANAGERS, RETAILERS, COSTING ANALYSTS

The art of shoemaking course: Dress and casual shoes New York City and Los AngelesFOR ANYONE AT ANY LEVEL, INTERESTED/MOTIVATED IN UNDERSTANDING PROCESSES FROM FOOTWEAR DEVELOPMENT TO CONSTRUCTION AS WELL AS COSTING AND SOURCING.

ObjectivesGreater understanding of the processes of production of different types of shoe constructions with primarily focus given to the traditional cemented construction. Deeper knowledge of the materials used in each stage of the process. Opportunity to refocus the experience and progress in a job that requires the ability to thoroughly analyse the product and interact with professional engineers from the overseas manufacturing in sample rooms and factories.

PrerequisitesAttendees should have at least 2/3 years industry experience OR take previously our 10 hour e-learning course which will prepare them to understand better the topics that will be addressed. This unique on-line course will be offered complimentary to those who sign up for the class

Fundamentals of shoemakingPART I. FUNDAMENTALS OF SHOEMAKING

Analysis of world footwear production and its growth in the past years.Overview of cemented/board lasted construction process: from last preparation to the finished product: the foot, the last and the shoe. Overview and review on upper materials, upper construction, shoe components and shoe constructions. Review on Styling, Project, Pattern Making, manual operations, machine processes.

PART II. MATERIALS AND COMPONENTSDetailed discussion on foot anatomy: the foot vs. the last.The Last: overview, foot shapes, volumes, proportions, last modelling, tips for a good fit, last measurements and width systems. International Sizing Systems. Examination of upper materials: leathers, fabrics, synthetics, action leather, by-cast.Insightful analyses on Leathers. Analysis of leather tanning processes. Main steps of leather tanning and leather finishing Fabrics/Textiles - weaving and cutting. Fabrics vs. Synthetics - pros and cons.Upper and lining preparation: splitting, skiving, cutting (manual, press, computer-aided), taping, backing, edge finishing, upper assembly. Focus on the most commonly used edge finishes. Upper pre-lasting and lasting.Design and pattern making for shoes and boots: traditional by hand and computer-aided shoe structure.Heels: from idea to production.Open discussion on fundamental information for shoe designers on lasts and proportions - tips and tricks to avoid quality and fit problems. Incorrect pattern or incorrect lasting (construction) during assembly. Examination of shoes, sandals and boots: potential problems that can arise during and after production.Focus on Fitting Test: every attendee is invited to bring his/her own shoe or prototype to be analysed.This module will be taught in collaboration with an expert in lasts and fit issues.

PART III. OUTSOLESTypes and materials used. Their differences, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. Analysis of production process, for both traditional (cut and assembled) and moulded units.

TUITION FEES

$ 2500,00DURATION

1 WEEKCLASS TIMES


INTAKES

NEW YORK: JULY & NOVEMBERLOS ANGELES: MARCH

13

Awareness of value: costing and sourcingThis module will be taught in collaboration with an expert in Costing and International Sourcing.

OBJECTIVESOffer a comprehensive in depth review of costing awareness and valueProvide basic understanding of footwear costing processes, methodology standards and factors affecting the overall standards of the product.Help understand the cost combined with the manufacturing processesInsight of the factories perspective and approach to costingBe aware of the internal facts (fill-rates, quality issues, capacity, model mix etc.) that may affect the manufacturer’s behaviour in the negotiationStrive to provide reliable and fact based information to be able to make good business decisions early in the process.Remember that Cost and Value are two different things

KEY POINTS OF THIS MODULETopics covered are impact of design, pattern making and construction on pricingExamine all the factors that impact costing and value of footwearReview efficiencies that relate to costsDetailed review of costing sheets (CBS) and metrics involvedEducate how materials and components affect footwear constructionsOutline the impact of costs when a new mould for outsoles or a new shoe last is adaptedEducate the participants on the factory perspectiveOutline a CBS which includes materials, components, cutting, stitching, construction, packaging, LOP.Create a guide line for “technical costing tricks” or for “better engineering” to improve the processDiscuss impact of duties on costsUnderstand how to improve look – price and functionalityFocus on margin needs depending on country, product and construction processReview all the factors in design and development that increase costsDiscuss latest ever changing sourcing opportunities and impact on costingDiscuss efficiencies to preserve costing value and lower costs

Videos, samples and examples are used as teaching tools throughout the workshop.

Our partnersFrom the very beginning of our courses in the US in 2007 we have partnered with the more prestigious footwear institutions to make sure our training offer was always in line with the needs of the US footwear industry.Two Ten Foundation was the first to believe in us when we launched the first course in Waltham in 2008 and still today they continue to give their endorsement, to promote our classes and to offer scholarships.More info at twoten.org/get-help/scholarships/professional-development-scholarships

After few years we have started an amazing journey with the FFANY association and its CEO Joe Moore that led us to launch courses in New York starting from 2010. More info at ffany.org/education.

In the framework of this partnership we have also developed a platform for online courses (arsutoriaschool.com/shoe-courses/#section-online) and a collaboration with leading fashion schools such as FIT, Parsons, RISD and SCAD to offer scholarships to the design talents (arsutoriaschool.com/joe-moore-footwear-scholarship)

In 2018 after launching a new class in Los Angeles we also had the honor to sign a partnership with the FDRA Association and started working with them as well to bring further more value to the US footwear industry

14

TECHNICAL COURSE

FOR DESIGNERS, PRODUCT DEVELOPERS, MATERIAL SOURCING EXPERTS, MANAGERS, RETAILERS, COSTING ANALYSTS

The art of shoemaking course: Casual and outdoor shoes BostonFOR ANYONE AT ANY LEVEL, INTERESTED/MOTIVATED IN UNDERSTANDING PROCESSES FROM FOOTWEAR DEVELOPMENT TO CONSTRUCTION AS WELL AS COSTING AND SOURCING.

ObjectivesGreater understanding of the processes of production of different types of shoe constructions.Deeper knowledge of the materials used in each stage of the process. Better understanding of the characteristics of upper/middle and bottom components and different chemical materials used for moulded outsoles. Opportunity to refocus the experience and progress in a job that requires the ability to thoroughly analyse the product and interact with professional engineers from overseas manufacturing sample rooms and factories.

PrerequisitesAttendees should have at least 2/3 years industry experience OR take previously our 10 hour e-learning course which will prepare them to understand better the topics that will be addressed. This unique on-line course will be offered complimentary to those who sign up for the class

Fundamentals of shoemakingPART I. FUNDAMENTALS OF SHOEMAKING

Basic relationship between the foot, the last and the shoe. The last as a manufacturing tool. International Sizing Systems. Upper and lining: overview of pattern making and pattern grading, cutting techniques, upper preparation and stitching.

PART II. MATERIALS AND COMPONENTSMaterials for uppers and linings, Middle components, Bottom components. Moulds: Vulcanization, Injection moulding. Overview of production process. 3 basic upper constructions: board lasted, slip lasted and tubular moccasin. 3 basic shoe/bottom constructions: cemented outsoles, stitched families (e.g. Blake, stitch-out, Goodyear), vulcanized and injected. Alternative/hybrid constructions derived from basic ones and approaches to mix upper and shoe constructions

PART III. PATTERN MAKING AND CONSUMPTIONUnderstanding of the technical pattern envelope with pieces ready to cut. Yield and efficiency: relationship between pattern shapes and sizes, leather size and cutting rules, area and piece nesting. Knowledge of the basic upper constructions: over lasting, slip lasting and tubular lasting.Definition and explanation of production process of the most important shoe constructions used either for classic and casual-performance footwear such as: Goodyear-welted, Blake-Littleway, Stitch out, Board lasted, California and Strobel, Moccasin, String Lasting, Vulcanization, direct injection, etc.…

PART IV. MOULDING: OVERVIEW OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF TOOLINGThis part will be taught in cooperation with Apego, an Italian expert in mould making.From the creative idea of the designer to the project of the tool (mould) and the setup of the moulding process. Different materials moulded with different systems. Analysis of chemical materials used for outsoles, overview of materials and relationship with use and performance required.

TUITION FEES

$ 2500,00DURATION

1 WEEKCLASS TIMES


INTAKES

TWO INTAKES:IN FEBRUARY & SEPTEMBER

15

Awareness of value: costing and sourcingThis module will be taught in collaboration with an expert in Costing and International Sourcing.

OBJECTIVESOffer a comprehensive in depth review of costing awareness and valueProvide basic understanding of footwear costing processes, methodology standards and factors affecting the overall standards of the product.Help understand the cost combined with the manufacturing processesInsight of the factories perspective and approach to costingBe aware of the internal facts (fill-rates, quality issues, capacity, model mix etc.) that may affect the manufacturer’s behaviour in the negotiationStrive to provide reliable and fact based information to be able to make good business decisions early in the process.Remember that Cost and Value are two different things

KEY POINTS OF THIS MODULETopics covered are impact of design, pattern making and construction on pricingExamine all the factors that impact costing and value of footwearReview efficiencies that relate to costsDetailed review of costing sheets (CBS) and metrics involvedEducate how materials and components affect footwear constructionsOutline the impact of costs when a new mould for outsoles or a new shoe last is adaptedEducate the participants on the factory perspectiveOutline a CBS which includes materials, components, cutting, stitching, construction, packaging, LOP.Create a guide line for “technical costing tricks” or for “better engineering” to improve the processDiscuss impact of duties on costsUnderstand how to improve look – price and functionalityFocus on margin needs depending on country, product and construction processReview all the factors in design and development that increase costsDiscuss latest ever changing sourcing opportunities and impact on costingDiscuss efficiencies to preserve costing value and lower costs

Videos, samples and examples are used as teaching tools throughout the workshop.

Our partnersFrom the very beginning of our courses in the US in 2007 we have partnered with the more prestigious footwear institutions to make sure our training offer was always in line with the needs of the US footwear industry.Two Ten Foundation was the first to believe in us when we launched the first course in Waltham in 2008 and still today they continue to give their endorsement, to promote our classes and to offer scholarships.More info at twoten.org/get-help/scholarships/professional-development-scholarships

After few years we have started an amazing journey with the FFANY association and its CEO Joe Moore that led us to launch courses in New York starting from 2010. More info at ffany.org/education.

In the framework of this partnership we have also developed a platform for online courses (arsutoriaschool.com/shoe-courses/#section-online) and a collaboration with leading fashion schools such as FIT, Parsons, RISD and SCAD to offer scholarships to the design talents (arsutoriaschool.com/joe-moore-footwear-scholarship)

In 2018 after launching a new class in Los Angeles we also had the honor to sign a partnership with the FDRA Association and started working with them as well to bring further more value to the US footwear industry

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Online shoe coursesOUR E-LEARNING COURSES OFFER A BASIC – BUT AT THE SAME TIME IN DEPTH – KNOWLEDGE ON HOW SHOES ARE MADE.

ALL COURSES ARE TAUGHT IN ENGLISH

SUBSCRIPTION TO THE COURSES GRANTS ACCESS TO THE CONTENTS FOR 3 MONTHS

THE COURSES CAN BE SUBSCRIBED TOGETHER AT THE SPECIAL PRICE OF 600 €. CONTACT US FOR MORE INFO

Footwear silhouettesDedicated to those who wish to learn names and features of the different shoe style. Recommended to all those who work in the shoe industry not only as designers or technicians: merchandisers, product managers and retailers need this basic knowledge

Life of a shoeLearn the basics of shoemaking. This course explains how many different shoe constructions are made: the sequence of operations, the machines used and the materials and components used along the shoemaking process

Material introductionLearn what materials and components are used to make shoes. To make a shoe there are many different components that make a difference in terms of appearance, quality and cost of a shoe

FEES

€ 300,00DURATION

4 HOURS

DURATION

5 HOURS

DURATION

2 HOURS

THESE ONLINE COURSES ARE OFFERED FOR FREE TO ALL THE STUDENTS ATTENDING ONE OF OUR COURSES

FEES

€ 300,00

FEES

€ 300,00

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MORE DETAILS AND SEATS AVAILABILITY ONARSUTORIASCHOOL.COM/BAG-COURSES

Bag courses in Milan

TUITION FEES


DURATION

4 WEEKS140 HOURS

Bag designDedicated to those who want to learn how to design a collection of bags in a very short time

Bag pattern making and prototyping

This 10-week pattern making course is the fundamental part of our training in the bag field, which we recommend to both designers and technicians

TUITION FEES


DURATION

10 WEEKS350 HOURS

Bag making: tote, clutch and backpack

Three weeks dedicated to bag prototype making together with expert Italian technicians

TUITION FEES


DURATION

3 WEEKS105 HOURS

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Apartments for our studentsWE PROVIDE HOUSING SOLUTIONS TO OUR STUDENTS, IN THE ARSUTORIA RESIDENCE, LOCATED IN THE SAME BUILDING OF THE SCHOOL

To enhance learning experience outside the classroom, we offer accommodation in the Arsutoria Residence, located in the same building of our school.All apartments are equipped with WiFi internet access, heating and A/C.

The prices include: one weekly room cleaning, one weekly bedsheets replacement, two weekly towels replacement.15% discount is granted for reservations of 4 weeks periods and more. The residence is located in Via Ippolito Nievo 33, walking distance from the centre of Milan where most of the fashion retailers are located.

It is very near the Cadorna and the Domodossola train/subway Stations

€ 375,00 + VAT 10%

WEEKLY PRICE FOR SINGLE ROOM APARTMENTS

€ 475,00 + VAT 10%

WEEKLY PRICE FOR DOUBLE ROOM APARTMENTS

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Enrolment, payment and refund policyAPPLICATIONS HAVE TO BE SUBMITTED ONLINE ATARSUTORIASCHOOL.COM/SHOE-COURSES-APPLICATION/

Upon receiving the application the school issues a proposal with tuition and accommodation fees.In order to keep a reasonable ratio between students and teachers we accept only a limited number of students for each class and we enrol them on a first arrived basis.

PAYMENT AND REFUND POLICYTo confirm participation and secure a seat in the class (and an apartment at the residence), students must pay 30% of the total tuition fee. The balance must be settled one month before the beginning of the course. In case the student is not in the condition to attend the course, the school allows to postpone the participation to a session within the next 12 months with the payment of an extra charge equal to the 30% of the total fees.If a full payment is made, the student can ask a refund for the remaining 70%.After 12 months, the students will need to pay again the entire fee.

WITHDRAWAL RIGHTPursuant to Section 52 of the Italian Legislative Decree No. 206 of 2005 (Consumer Code), the Students, as defined in Section 3, letter a), of the Consumer Code, is entitled to cancel the Order Proposal, without any justification, by sending a specific withdrawal notice, by registered mail with return receipt requested, to ARSUTORIA SCHOOL S.r.l., Via Ippolito Nievo 33, I-20145 Milan, Italy, or by certified e-mail to the address [email protected] and a copy of the notice in advance to the e-mail address [email protected], within 14 (fourteen) business days from the date of execution of the Proposal and the advance payment.

If the Student has already obtained documents concerning the courses and the accommodation, he or she shall send them back, intact, to ARSUTORIA SCHOOL within 14 (fourteen) business days from the date of the sending of the withdrawal notice, at the Consumer’s own expense. ARSUTORIA SCHOOL will reimburse the advance payment received by the Student.

STUDY VISADepending on your citizenship, the duration and reasons for your stay you may need to obtain a visa before coming to Italy. You can check online if you need a visa at this address: vistoperitalia.esteri.it/home/enIf you plan to stay in Italy for more than 90 days to attend more than one course, you need a study VISA.The process to get the study VISA can take up to two months. That’s why we suggest to start the process early in advance:

• contact the VISA office of the Italian consulate nearest to you• ask for the complete list of documents that you have to prepare (please note

that this list can slightly vary among the consulates of the different countries)

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JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC

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Training course calendar for 2019MORE INFORMATION ON ARSUTORIASCHOOL.COM

12 WEEKS

SHOE PATTERN MAKING AND PROTOTYPING

4 WEEKS

SHOE ADVANCED TECHNICAL PATTERN MAKING

4 WEEKS

SHOE MAKING

4 WEEKS

SHOE 3D DIGITAL DESIGN

4 WEEKS

SHOE DESIGN

3 DAYS

STARTUP YOUR OWN SHOE BRAND

1 WEEK

THE ART OF SHOEMAKING IN THE U.S.

10 WEEKS

BAG PATTERN MAKING AND PROTOTYPING

4 WEEKS

BAG DESIGN

3 WEEKS

BAG MAKING

BOSTONFEB 11TH - 15TH

LOS ANGELESMAR 11TH - 15TH

NEW YORKJUL 8TH - 12TH

BOSTONSEP 9TH - 13TH

MAR 18TH MAY 29TH

AUG 27TH OCT 31ST

NOV 4TH NOV 29TH

DEC 2ND - 20THJUL 1ST - 19TH

JAN 7TH MAR 29TH

APR 3RD JUN 28TH

AUG 27TH NOV 15TH

APR 3RD MAY 3RD

MAY 6TH MAY 31ST

JUN 3RD JUN 28TH

JUL1ST JUL 26TH

JUL 29TH - 31ST

JUL1ST JUL 26TH

SEP 23RD OCT 18TH

OCT 21ST NOV 15TH

NOV 18TH DEC 13TH

DEC 16TH - 18TH

NOV 18TH DEC 13TH

FEB 3RD FEB 28TH(2020)

MAR 2ND MAR 27TH(2020)

MAR 30 APR 24TH(2020)

JUN 3RD JUN 28TH

JAN 7TH FEB 1ST

APR 3RD MAY 3RD

To 2020 >> From 2019

MAY 6TH - 8TH

APR 27TH - 29TH(2020)

arsutoria school · 2018. 11. 23. · the arsutoria diploma is issued to those who successfully...

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