Area:   218 sq. km    Altitude: 500-3200m (accessible 100-3200m including adjacent areas; road 100-2800m)  Lat-Long:  27.1N  92.4E, in W. Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh, India.Forest HQ:  Seijusa1 (DFO), Tenga/Singchung (Range Office)Entry points:  Tenga from the north (recommended), Doimara from the south.Vegetation Type:  lowland evergreen forest (better at Pakke); broad-leaved forest, bamboo, conifers; roadside scrub and farmland - all these in both subtropical and temperate altitudes;Best Season - Birds:  November-May. More birdsong in April-May but fewer winter birds.Best Season - butterflies/herps:  monsoon, especially May and October.

Speciality Birds:   Rufous-bellied hawk-eagle, northern goshawk, pied falconet, common hill-partridge, temminck's tragopan, ashy wood-pigeon, tawny wood-owl, rufous-necked hornbill, ward's trogon, golden-throated barbet, crimson-breasted pied-woodpecker, bay woodpecker, pale-headed woodpecker, grey-chinned minivet, rufous-bellied bulbul, maroon-backed accentor, eye-browed thrush, fea's thrush, gould's shortwing, white-browed shortwing,  blue-fronted robin, little forkail, golden bush-robin, rufous-breasted bush-robin, puple cochoa, grey-sided laughing-thrush, scaly laughing-thrush, black-faced laughing-thrush, red-faced liocichla, coral-billed scimitar-babbler, slender-billed scimitar-babbler, 6 wren-babblers (wedge-billed, bar-winged, pygmy, spotted, rufous-throated and scaly-breasted), gold-headed babbler, cutia, rufous-bellied shrike-babbler, green shrike-babbler, white-hooded babbler, red-tailed minla, 6 tit-babblers/fulvettas (incl. golden-breasted, brown-throated, and yellow-throated), 3 sibias (incl beautiful, and rufous-backed), 5 yuhinas (incl. black-chinned, rufous-vented and white-naped),  fire-tailed myzornis, 6 parrotbills (greater and lesser rufous-headed, brown, grey-headed and fulvous-fronted), mountain tailorbird, 3 tesias (chestnut-headed, grey-bellied and slaty-bellied), 8 flycatcher-warblers (incl. broad-billed, white-spectacled, chestnut-crowned and black-faced), 4 niltavas (incl. vivid and large),  13 flycatchers (incl. white-gorgeted), rufous-bellied and grey-crested tits,  sultan tit, beautiful nuthatch, wallcreeper, brown-throated treecreeper, yellow-bellied flowerpecker, mrs gould's and fire-tailed sunbird, gold-naped black-finch, beavan's bullfinch, brown bullfinch.

Birding Areas

Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary Area

Bhalupong-Tenga Road:  Passes along the eastern borders of the Eaglenest and Sessa sanctuaries and provides an excellent birding transect from 300-1600m altitude, that is, apart from the traffic. The corresponding areas inside Eaglenest are, naturally, better but this is an option for birders who don't have the time for Eaglenest.

Northern slopeTenga: 1200m. Farmland and habitation.Ramalingam: 1780m. Subtropical farmland, scrub and degraded forest.Lama Camp: 2350m. Temperate broad-leaved primary and degraded forest.

Ridge: Temperate bamboo, conifer and broad-leaved forest and scrub.Eaglenest Pass: 2800m; Bra-Top: 3200m; Piri-La: 3000m?  Bra-Top and Piri-La are the only 2 locations on this list not accessible by a vehicle and can be accessed by steep trails from Chakoo and Lama Camp. There has been much confusion involving these 2 names and Piri-La has been used to refer to both (even in Athreya & Kartikeyan 1995, and Choudhary 2003). The trail from Chakoo is signposted "Piri-La Trail". It climbs up to the ridge at 3100m and then bifurcates, the right branch climbing up immediately to Bra-Top and the left one following the ridge to Piri-La some distance away. Survey of India topo sheets show both these places. The Chakoo - Bra-top trail is tough but it passes through excellent birch, fir, rhododendron and bamboo and I've seen on that trail temminck's tragopan, fulvous-fronted parrotbills, black bear and even a red panda!

Southern SlopeSunderview: 2465m. Temperate broad-leaved forest and roadside scrub.Chakoo: 2405m. Temperate broad-leaved forest, meadows in ancient clear-felled patches.Bompu: 1940m. Subtropical broad-leaved forest and bamboo, large patch of open scrubSessni: 1250m. Broad-leaved forest. Old jhoom patches with secondary scrub.Khellong: 750m. Tropical forest, grazing meadows and degraded scrub.Kamengbari - Doimara: 100-350m. Tropical forest, grazing meadows, shingle banks and cultivation.

The sanctuary extends from Eaglenest Pass to a little above Khellong along the road. The entire stretch from Lama Camp on the northern slope, up across Eaglenest Pass and down the southern slope to Khellong is prime birding area. Doimara and Kamengbari are also good but the corresponding areas in Pakke tiger reserve are better. A broad jeep track runs from Tenga to Kamengbari through Eaglenest Pass which makes for very comfortable roadside birding. It is this combination of roadside scrub adjacent to primary forest  just 20-30m away, apart from 3200m of altitudinal range, which makes Eaglenest a prime birding site. The large altitudinal range and the extraordinary bird assemblage requires a minimum of 6-10 days with a jeep and 10-14 days on foot to do justice to it.

Boarding & LodgingBomdila (Grade 2) : District HQ, 50 km (2.5 hr) from Eaglenest.Tenga (Grade 3) : 28 km (1.5 hr) from Eaglenest.Singchung (Grade 3-) : A well furnished IB (6 people), 28 km (1.5 hr) from Eaglenest. Ramalingam (Grade 5) : An FRH (4 people), 20 km (1 hour) from Eaglenest. Camping. Lama Camp (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (8 people), 10 km (30 min) from Eaglenest. Camping.Sunderview (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (3 people), inside Eaglenest. Camping.Bompu (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (12 people), inside Eaglenest. Camping.Sessni (Grade 5) : GREF sheds (4 people), inside the sanctuary.Khellong (Grade 5) : Forest Dept. sheds (6 people), 7 km (30 min) from Eaglenest.Doimara (Grade 4) : a village 20 km (1 hour) from Eaglenest. Unfurnished shacks can be arranged by the Village Chief if intimated in advance. Camping.

See  town grade and accommodation  descriptions.

Camp style accommodation, whether in tents or in empty sheds, is the only option between Lama Camp and Doimara. Tented camps in the lower reaches, at Khellong and Sessni, are not recommended because of elephant activity; Doimara is safe because of the electric fence around the village. Perimeter trenches have been recommended to facilitate year-round camping in all areas. Elephants move up above Sessni only during summer (May - October) and so are not an issue for winter visitors.

ContactEaglenest Biodiversity Project: Ramana Athreya More Information on the area: Ramana Athreya email   Bird Tours: Kaati Tours  & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)   

Mr. Glow : Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph 91-3782-273359; Kaati Tours:Ph +91-2132-245770 email

Entry Permits1. Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked on entry into Arunachal at Bhalukpong. The Circle Officers at Tenga/Singchung/Bhalukpong/Bomdila can issue fresh permits to extend the stay (for Indians only).2. Forest entry permits are issued by the Divisional Forest Officer,  Pakke Tiger Reserve, Seijusa. E. Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh. Phone +91-3778-222229 (off), 222230 (res), who also has additional charge of Eaglenest Wildlife sanctuary. The nearest Forest Dept presence is the Range Forest Office at Singchung.3. The Bugun tribe of Tenga which lost its ancient rights over Eaglenest (along with the Sherdukpen tribe of Rupa) now charges an entry fee of Rs. 500 per day for foreigner and Rs. 100 for Indian visitors, which goes into the Bugun Welfare Society (and not Govt coffers). It has been proposed to reduce this to Rs. 250 and Rs. 50 respectively and charge Rs. 1000 per day for each 4-wheel vehicle (for both Indians and foreigners), to encourage trekking visitors and make vehicles pay for the damage they do to the fragile mountain road. The money collected will be used to provide local employment for patrolling the area and maintaining the road for visitors.

Transporta) Walking is permitted inside the park. b) To/From Tenga: Tenga is on the Tezpur-Bomdila-Tawang highway and connected by buses from Itanagar, Tezpur and Guwahati (Rs. 250 from Guwahati) and by shared jeeps from Tezpur (early morning and noon - Rs. 160 per seat). Full jeeps may also be hired from Tezpur, Balipara or Bhalukpong (Rs. 1200-1600) which will also facilitate birding the excellent Bhalukpong-Tenga stretch. The 135 km long drive, mostly in the hills, takes 3-5 hour.c) Tenga to Eaglenest: The options are:1. Trek all the way with porters/camp staff2. Vehicle drop-off at Eaglenest Pass or beyond and a trek downhill with porters/camp staff. Drop-off vehicles can be rented in Tenga for Rs. 1000-15003. Vehicle hired for the entire visit. Vehicles are available at Tenga and Bomdila for Rs. 1000-2000 per day plus fuel.d) Inside Eaglenest: Access on foot through the broad jeep track is possible all through the year. Mountain bikes and motor-cycles (none available on hire locally) may also be used all through the year. Jeep access is usually limited to between November and April (May). The main rainy season is from May to October but heavy rains are a permanent threat and could cause a temporary road block (for jeeps) during any month. Snow on the ground is a possibility above 2000m for a few weeks from mid-January to early March.e) Exit from Eaglenest: One can1. Trek back over the Eaglenest Pass to Tenga2. Trek downhill and catch the daily bus from Doimara (6 days a week, with occasional no-shows)3. Arrange for a jeep pick-up inside Eaglenest and exit via Doimara or Tenga

Visiting these places by public transport will require a travel overhead of 3-4 days ex-Guwahati and one should keep a buffer for bus truancy. With a private vehicle the travel component will be 1-2 days. Logistical organisation will require a day at Tenga (alternatively, have Mr. Glow to do the organisation beforehand).

MiscellaneousAll arrangements in Tenga - porters, camp staff, provisions, vehicle booking, local entry and accommodation permits etc - are best done through Mr. Indi Glow who lives in Tenga, is aware of the needs of tourists (especially birders) and has been intimately associated with the Eaglenest Biodiversity Project. In association with the EBP he is involved in the process of identifying and training a reliable team of camp staff who understand that for birders "breakfast at 5.30 AM" means breakfast at 5.30 AM and that many visitors do not consider chilly a vegetable!

Copyright © Ramana Athreya

Upper Dikorai river above Khari in Pakke Tiger Reserve 

Western Arunachal PradeshPakke Tiger Reserve 

 by     Ramana   Athreya

General Information

Area  :   862 sq. km    Altitude  : 100-2000m (accessible 100-300m)  Lat-Long  :  27.1N  93E, in E. Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh, India.Reserve HQ/ Entry points  :  Seijusa1/ Seijusa1 and Tipi  Vegetation Type  :  lowland evergreen forest, shingle banks, farmland, plantations. Though Pakke and Kaziranga are both at very low elevations the vegetation is very different and therefore so are the birds.Best Season - Birds  :  November-March (April)Best Season - butterflies/herps  :  monsoon, especially May and October. Butterflies were active even in December but not in April.Speciality Birds  :  jerdon's baza, pied falconet, white-cheeked hill-partridge, grey peacock-pheasant, elwe's crake, ibisbill, emerald cuckoo, red-headed trogon, green-pigeon spp., forest eagle-owl, wreathed and great hornbills, collared and long-tailed broadbills, blue-naped pitta, lesser shortwing, white-browed shortwing, daurian redstart, leschenault's forktail, lesser necklaced laughing-thrush, silver-eared leiothrix, white-bellied yuhina, yellow-bellied flycatcher-warbler, sultan tit, ruby-cheeked sunbird, maroon oriole, crow-billed drongo,

Birding Areas

Seijusa1  : 2-4 days1. Garden and woodland around the Forest Dept complex2. Farmland and scrub, 2-4 km up to and beyond Seijusa23. Woodland and open scrub across the river around the FRH and animal enclosures4. Shingle banks of the river5. Forest along the first 2 km of the Khari roadKhari : 2-4 days1. Forest-edge around the FRH2. 2-3 km of the road towards Seijusa,3. Forest edge along streams and rivers.4. Animal trails into the forestKhari has a wonderful view. There are few experiences to beat sitting on the platform in the evening, pleasantly tired after a great day of birding, with a hot cup of tea and snacks and watching a large elephant herd ford the river below

while emerald and rufous-bellied plaintive cuckoos are trying to raise the dead in the tree behind. In 1994, our evening ritual during a full week was to welcome a flock each of both broadbills as they settled in the vicinity for the night! Spot-bellied eagle-owls have been seen in the area as well.Tipi :  1-2 days1. Roadside birding along the highway2. The river below the FRH3. Cross the river and follow the trail into the forest

Boarding & Lodging

Seijusa1 (Grade 3) : Furnished FRH (4 people) just outside the Park. Camping?  Power supply erratic.Khari  (Grade 5) : furnished FRH (4 people). Camping? No electrical power.Tipi  (Grade 4) : furnished FRH (4 people). Camping? Has electrical power.Bhalukpong (Grade 3) : several IBs (?), 5 km from Tipi. Also a couple of very basic hotels and restaurants.See  town grade and accommodation  descriptions

Contacts

As of now, there is no contact person around Pakke itself for making arrangements for visitors but we are in the process of identifying interested persons.  Forest Dept officials have been very helpful in the past in hiring vehicles and camp staff locally. Mr. Indi Glow of Tenga may be requested to make arrangements here as well.More Information on the area  :   Ramana Athreya email  (rathreya at ncra.tifr.res.in)Bird Tours: Kaati Tours  & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)   Mr. Glow:Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph  91-3782-273359Kaati Tours:Ph  +91-2132-245770  email    (kaati_tours at vsnl.net)

Entry Permits

Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked at Seijusa1. The Circle Officer at Seijusa2 can issue fresh permits to extend the stay (for Indians only).Forest entry permits are issued by the Divisional Forest Officer,  Pakke Tiger Reserve, Seijusa. E. Kameng district, Arunachal Pradesh. Phone +91-3778-222229 (off), 222230 (res). He is also the authority for alloting the FRH and permission to camp.

Transport

Walking inside the park is permitted if accompanied by a forest guard.  The only vehicle track inside the sanctuary is between Khari and Seijusa. All other areas have to be accessed on foot or on an elephant.

Seijusa1 : 1-2 buses daily between Seijusa2 and Tezpur.  Vehicles can be rented in Tezpur (Rs. 700-1000 for a drop-off), Balipara and Chaibari (shared jeeps Rs. 25 or a full vehicle for Rs. 300-500). Chaibari, locally pronounced Soibari, is on the Tezpur-Itanagar highway and  is a request stop for all buses plying that road.Khari : The Pakke bridge was washed away last monsoon but one can ford the river on foot, by jeep  or forest Dept elephants, depending on the flow and continue in the same mode to Khari 10 km away (Rs. 500 for elephant or jeep). One could send the baggage by elephant and walk the distance - excellent birding along the track.Tipi : is on the Tezpur - Bomdila highway with several daily buses from Tezpur and Itanagar. Shared and rental jeeps ply from Tezpur, Balipara and Bhalukpong.

Visiting these 3 areas by public transport will necessitate a travel overhead of 3-4 days. With a private vehicle the travel component will be 1 day. See also  transport in W. Arunachal

DistancesTezpur - Balipara  24 km;Balipara to  :  Chaibari 19 km,  Itakhola  23 km,  Seijusa1 41 km,  Seijusa2  44 km.Balipara to  :  Bhalukpong  36 km,  Tipi  41 km

Miscellaneous

Seijusa1 has the Arunachal entry police checkpost, the Forest Dept offices and a couple of shops only; get down here for Pakke. The main village, Seijusa2, is about 3 km further up the road.

Nameri National Park of Assam is contiguous with Pakke Tiger Reserve, lying just across the Assam-Arunachal state border at both Seijusa1 and Khari.

Map of Pakke Tiger Reserve and its surroundings

GORICHEN DRIVE

Trekkers’ paradise

The unspoilt and idyllic environs of Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh make it an unforgettable visit, writes Partha S. Banerjee

FOR those bitten by the travel bug, few regions in India seem as enticing as this remote, unspoilt northeastern state with its pristine forests, distinctive tribal culture, ancient Buddhist monasteries and high snow-clad Himalayan peaks.

Visit Arunachal's most popular tourist destination, Tawang, and chances are you wouldn't get a glimpse of the 22,000 ft-plus Gorichen and Kangto summits, the state's highest. A range of hills that thrusts southwestwards from the Great Himalayas on the Tibet border obscures them, isolating the picturesque Tawang valley. A hike to the village of Chander affords a stunning view of the Himalayan summits. The Chander trek takes off from Dhirang, an ancient village with a ruined dzong (fortress) where many families still live. Dhirang lies not far from Bomdila, the district headquarters town sprawled on a ridge and situated halfway between Tawang and Tezpur in Assam. Beyond Dhirang, the road begins ascending the mountain range that isolates the Tawang valley (and blocks views of the snow peaks), crossing it over the Se La pass (13,700 ft), before descending to Jang, at the head of the Tawang valley.

The Tourist Lodge at Dhirang overlooks the new town which sprawls on the banks of the river with the same name. The next morning, after a quick breakfast, we were off, walking along the highway. The road followed the Dhirang river and soon reached the dzong. Beyond the dzong, the trail breaks away from the road and, crossing the Dhirang river over a footbridge, begins ascending a hill. The climb is steep, and the trail is marked at intervals by chortens (stupas) and mani (stones with religious inscriptions) walls.

We broke for lunch at one of those walls, after passing an isolated farmstead with maize drying on bamboo poles and tethered horses grazing. Further up, the path became largely

A view of the Gorichen peak

Yaks in Chander— Photos by the writer

even, and suddenly we could see the Bomdila ridge on our right. A further gentle climb and we were on the top of the hill (7,380 ft); the trail now turned around and descended to the village of Namshu after circling a valley.

Namshu is a large picturesque farming village with two gompas; it was here that we put up for the night. There are no lodges or trekkers' huts on this route; if you can't find a friendly host, the only alternative is to stay in the village school or to camp. The experience of unadulterated country life in the remote hills of the northeast is unique. The customs and food habits of the Buddhist Monpa people here are so different from mainstream India's, it is almost as though you are in a different country altogether.

Beyond Namshu, the trail climbs steeply through a wooded slope behind the village gompa, then up a difficult, steeper stretch along a natural water channel to the top of the ridge (8,660 ft). Here the trail, very indistinct so far, meets a broad path that winds through the top of the ridge. Further up, a jeep track joins the path. The track goes up to Chander, zigzagging up several hairpin bends on the way. We take some shortcuts up the slopes to avoid the long hairpins; by now, the vegetation had become less dense and we were approaching semi-alpine altitudes with yaks grazing among scrubland.

Suddenly, after a turn, the promised snow mountains came into view. It was so sudden, with very little warning: On a ridge beyond were a few houses comprising the village of Chander. In Chander, the view of the mountain views now got even better, with the giant massif of Gorichen soaring into the sky and a host of other peaks all around.

Chander (9,900 ft) is a windswept village straddling a ridge where tribesmen from the remoter mountains come to trade with the villagers of the lower hills. That afternoon herdsmen from Mago (near the Gorichen base camp) in traditional wear had just arrived with scores of yaks and horses; the village was humming with life. We were put up in a hut, where, over the entire night, the Mago and Chander villagers and others who had come from below gossiped, gambled and smoked.

We rose early to catch the sunrise on the mountains. Streaks of clouds, coloured orange and red by the sun's golden rays, made the view even more gorgeous. We reluctantly bade goodbye to Chander, and returned through a different route.

Travel tips

Access: To reach Dhirang, fly or take a train to Guwahati in Assam and take a bus from there to Tezpur (about 4 hours). Shared Sumo jeeps and buses leave Tezpur (last service midday) for Bomdila where you will have to stay overnight and catch an early morning bus or Sumo taxi to Dhirang (45 km). Being on the Texpur-Tawang highway, you can get transport from Dhirang to visit Tawang after (or before) the trek.

Accommodation: Bomdila has a good Tourist Lodge and several medium-range hotels. Dhirang's Tourist Lodge is adjacent to a new moderately-priced hotel; there are cheaper hotels in the town below.

Best season: Oct-Dec, March-April

A Monpa woman from Mago

  The Rediff Special/Lieutenant General (retd) Ravi Eipe

My most significant impression of this battle, 40 years after it happened, is the quality of the Indian soldier. He is a very unique person, who is willing to follow his officer without question. In 1962, we had to endure such poor conditions, innumerable privations, inadequacies, and shortages. His loyalty, dedication, and willingness to do his duty and go beyond that are truly remarkable.

We were fighting in the Namkachu region, which was at an altitude of about 12,500 feet. We had to make a six-day foot march from Tawang to approach it. In the process, we had to cross the Sang Dar ridge, which is about 16,000 feet. The terrain was extremely difficult. There were some mule tracks, nothing beyond that.

The roads in those days came up to Tawang. That too, it was a one-tonne-in-patches kind of track. Logistically, we were in a very difficult area where the troops had to sustain themselves on man pack. That is, you had with you whatever you carried on your back. And as far as replenishments were concerned, we were getting rations air-dropped. But because of the altitude and the closeness to the border, the aircraft were dropping at heights that tend to disperse the drops.

So it was extremely difficult to collect the rations. Many of the items, even if dropped, would get caught in ravines and the troops never got what they required even if it was basic rations. Sometimes, for example, we just could not get salt. Sugar was not there. This kind of logistical problem put the troops to a lot of privation. But in spite of that, our troops displayed one great thing, and that was that they could sustain themselves on very little, and even be very cheerful with these hardships.

Secondly, because were on man-pack basis when we had to make our defences there, we did not have the proper tools and equipment, and had to rely on very small picks and shovels that a man carries on his back, which we call tools entrenching. That's a very inefficient way of digging anything. If you wanted to cut a tree in those days, there was nothing like an electric saw, like you see in the movies now. It was only with a dha or an axe that you felled trees.

In addition to all these difficulties, the weather was hard. We did not have snow clothing, but were just sustaining ourselves at those incredible altitudes with angola shirts, that is, heavy mazari shirts with a jersey each. Every man had one blanket with him. So we used to sleep in pairs. You had a blanket and what we would call a ground sheet each, that's all. Even an officer had to sleep with someone else. That way, each pair of soldiers had two blankets over them.

These were some of the difficulties that the troops encountered. But the morale was high all the same. The people were very cheerful.

But the main reason why we got into this kind of situation was because of the overall assessment, which somehow was extremely faulty. Our perception of China was that it was a very benign country. It was an era of 'Hindi-Chini bhai bhai'. The political thought process in the country precluded the possibility of China as a real threat.

Consequently, the preparations to undertake such an operation were very tardy. There was a mismatch between our perception of the enemy and what the enemy actually did. That is the reason why we got into so many problems. Otherwise, we would have gone into this war with better preparations: built roads and so on. That is the reason we were caught on the wrong foot.

At a national level, we did not read the enemy's intentions properly. There are letters from Vallabhbhai Patel to the prime minister that are published that ratify all that I am saying: Mr Patel draws the attention of the government to the fact that the Chinese should not be underestimated. Their intentions are not as honourable as they appear. The nation should prepare for the worst. But unless you recognise that an adversary is an adversary, your preparations will never match the situation.

The other thing is that we were deployed in a fashion that could be criticised severely, from a military point of view. Our principle always is that you must occupy heights so that the enemy who wants to attack you climbs up to you, and then you have the advantage of height when you want to deal with him. But here, we were deployed along a nullah or river, so that our attackers got the advantage over us. He could come behind us and on top of us.

This happened because of the belief that the line we occupied was not a defensive line; it was just a political line temporarily to establish our claim to what we are holding. So, there again, we were not very realistic. When our battalion was attacked, we were not only on low ground, but also facing the enemy here with the attack coming from behind.

As far as China's plans went, we saw the Chinese hand first when this post was established at Dola sometime in September 1962. It is now very clear that the Chinese intended for some time to launch an operation into India in the Tawang sector. The preparations started some time in 1960, two whole years before the actual war. It started with the gradual building of roads quite close to the border. This dispute was a godsend to them. If our post had not been established where it was, I am sure China would have found some other excuse to carry out the operation that they did.

It may be interesting to analyse why they did it. To understand that, one has to go back into the Chinese aspirations. They have always aspired to not only be a world power, but a superpower. In the 1950s, soon after they became independent, they had concluded that they must first become a regional power, and demonstrate their capability in the South Asian continent. This whole operation against India might have been an exercise to demonstrate China's superiority in this region.

Secondly, the Chinese have always wanted to absorb Tibet into their mainstream. The escape of the Dalai Lama to India must have been a sore point for them. It must have reinforced their concern that India could be trouble for them. These two things prompted to start this operation. If you recall, after they reached the foothills, they unilaterally ceased fire and withdrew.

The spin-off of this reverse was that the armed forces went into raising new formations, revising our technologies, techniques, strategies, and weapon systems. This helped us meet the challenges of the wars of 1965 and 1971, and even Kargil recently. The reverse of 1962 spurred the Indian Army to pull itself up. Many countries remain unchallenged, so their armies remain untested. Our test came very early, and we could set our house in order.

As for the Chinese soldier, as I encountered him: the Chinese were considered lotus-eaters in the Second World War, and given unimportant roles by the allies. After the Chinese revolution, the People's Liberation Army came into power and the party and army cadres became one and the same.

The men we encountered had already experienced fighting in Korea. But they were not a highly advanced army. They had better rifles than we had. But their techniques were typical of a people's army. They followed the technique of using human waves and mass attacks. Political indoctrination was part of their training. The Chinese soldier was very dedicated, though not as modern as that of any advanced country. But he was a good infantryman, who could march long

distances, live off the land, and adapt to all types of weather. I would rate him on a par with our men.

We saw the Chinese soldiers eyeball to eyeball, across a narrow nullah. They wore gray unisex trousers and long coats, with red flashes on their shoulders. They were tall and fit.

I had 95 men under me; I was a captain. The whole battalion had 513 men of all ranks in the Namkachu area. Of these, 282 were killed. Of my 95, only 14, including I, survived! All this on just one day! The enemy captured another 171.

The battle on that day went thus: we woke up and occupied our defences at 5.15am, just before first light. Fifteen minutes later, the enemy started heavy artillery shelling. They could see our positions clearly. Their fire was very effective, as the distance was short. In some cases, they could even use guns for direct firing. They could hit our bunkers, and some of our bunkers just blew up into smithereens.

In the meantime, in the darkness, unknown to us, the Chinese had crossed further up north and were coming behind our positions. This shelling carried on for about 45 minutes. Then we heard a bugle, and the shelling stopped. Instead, firing began from behind. When we realised that this attack was coming from behind us, we organised ourselves to turn behind and keep firing. But the advantage was to the Chinese, who were on top.

In spite of the fact that we were in an unfavourable position, we continued fighting. We could hold on for nearly another 45 minutes, by which time we had suffered extensive casualties.

I was not in communication with the battalion commander or anyone else. So I took whatever men I could to the brigade headquarters. The brigade commander was there, and heard the firing. All the companies of the 2nd Rajput had been attacked simultaneously in the same manner, and that is why we suffered such losses. The next day, Brigadier John Dalvi, our commander, became a prisoner of war!

I too got a splinter wound during the shelling, but it was not incapacitating. One could keep walking around with it. Only, as it became cold, it hurt whenever I breathed. The story after that is very long and well known. We were in retreat, but a complex one. But the story of the battle of the 2nd Rajput in the 1962 war ends there. It was very hard to carry the wounded in that terrain: four to six men were needed to carry every wounded man.

What strikes me is that even though we experienced a setback in the war, we are fortunate to have soldiers of such calibre fighting for India. These men never held it against their country that she had nothing much to offer in terms of clothing, food, or equipment, but still expected great performances from them. I found, in 1962, an army of soldiers willing to make the greatest possible sacrifices for their country, just for love and dedication to their land.

(Ravi Eipe was 22, and had been in the army for three years, when he was thrust into battle with the Chinese in the North East Frontier Agency [now Arunachal Pradesh]. The lieutenant general now lives in Bangalore. He spoke to M D Riti)

Rajiv Gandhi Orang National Park The oldest game reserve of the State just on the northern bank of river Brahmaputra with an area of 78.80 sq. kms. and an important breeding ground for varieties of Fishes.

What you expect to see

Mammal : Rhinoceros, Tiger, Maljuria Elephants (male elephants in group), Hog Deer, Wild Pig, Civet Cat, Porcupine and Gangetic Dolphin.

Birds : 222 species of Birds have so far been recorded, some of which are Spot Billed Pelican, White Pelican, Greater Adjutant Stork, Lesser Adjutant Stork, Brahminy Duck, Pintail Duck, Bengal Florican(2nd.highest concentration) etc.

Reptiles : Indian Rock Python, Black Krait, King Cobra, Cobra, Monitor Lizard.

Turtles : Seven species of Turtle and Tortoise.

How to reach : The nearest Airport Salonibari (Tezpur) is 80 kms. and the LGBI Guwahati Airport is 150 kms. The National Park is located 18 kms. south of the N.H. 52 at Dhansirighat and the distance to Mangaldai is 70 kms. and Guwahati is 150 kms.

Where to stay : Satsimalu Rest House - the most sought after accommodation as it provides a vintage point for viewing wildlife and Silbori Rest House at the Range H.Q. A Tourist Lodge located near the entrance to the park managed by the Tourism Department can accommodate 16 people at a time. It has 8 cottages. The Forest Dormitory is located at the Gate and provides group accommodation for 40 people, without bedding and food.

Whom to contact for visit : Divisional Forest Officer, Mangaldoi Wildlife Division, Mangaldai, Darrang, Tel.– 03713- 230022, Range Forest Officer, Rajiv Gandhi Orang National Park, Silbori, Tel.- 03712- 282379.

1 Director General of Police VIMLA MEHRA POLCE HQrs. POLICE HEAD QUARTERS 0360-2218190 2212296 1 Inspector General of Police DEEPAK MISHRA POLCE HQrs. POLICE HEAD QUARTERS 0360-2212576 2292946 9 Suprintendent of Police PALDAN BOMDILA WEST KAMENG 0360-2291597 222047 3 Suprintendent of Police SANG NORBU MOSOBI TAWANG TAWANG 03794-222231 222213 5 Suprintendent of Police SEPPA EAST KAMENG 03787-222211

25 Office Incharge of PS TAWANG TAWANG 03794-222235 26 Office Incharge of PS JANG TAWANG 03794-254808 27 Office Incharge of PS BOMDILA WEST KAMENG 03782-222036 28 Office Incharge of PS KALAKTANG WEST KAMENG 03780-266441 29 Office Incharge of PS BOMDILA WEST KAMENG 03782-222036 37 Office Incharge of PS SEPPA EAST KAMENG 03787-222231 38 Office Incharge of PS SEIJOSA EAST KAMENG 03778-222204 39 Office Incharge of PS BHALUKPONG WEST KAMENG 03780-234432 40 Office Incharge of PS DIRANG WEST KAMENG 03780-242230

Sl No Designation Name Place Unit/District Off.Phone Res.Phone Email id 1 Asstt. Inspector General of Police ANIL KR OJHA POLICE HEAD QUARTERS 0360-2291065 2211967 2 Asstt. Inspector General of Police MADHUP KR TIWARY OPERATION 0360-2291274 2290863 3 Asstt. Inspector General of Police MADHUP KR TIWARY OPS 0360-2291274 2290863

TAWANG TOUR

Day 01: Arrive Guwahati / Nameri National Park (255 kms, 5 hrs drive)Arrive Guwahati by flight.Meeting upon arrival and depart for Nameri National Park. Nameri National Park: The Nameri National Park of 200 sq kms area is located in the Sonitpur district, bordering Arunachal Pradesh and it is also the core area of Nameri Tiger Reserve (344sq kms). It is the home of Mammals like Elephant, Tiger, leopard, Sambar,Barking deer, Hog Deer, Wild Boar,Gaur, slow loris,gaplangur,Burmese ferret badger, and over 350 species of birds including White-winged Wood Duck, Ibisbill (uncommon), Ruddy Kingfisher, Palla’sfishing eagle,Lesser Adjutant stork , Greater spotted eagle,Rufous necked hornbill, Great pied Indian hornbill, Wreathed hornbill, Long-billed Ringed Plover, Sultan Tit, and Yellow-bellied and White-throated Fantails. Another important wild life sanctuary of Arunachal Pradesh The Pakhui (Pakke) wild life Sanctuary adjoins the Park on its North-Eastern point. The river Jia- Bhoroli and its tributaries namely the Diji, Dinai, Doigurung, Nameri, Dikorai, Kharietc crisscross the park. During rainy season A few jheels (during the rainy seasons) also dot the area. One can enjoy rafting in the Jia Bhoroli river in the south western boundary.

Arrive and check in at Eco Camp. Rest of the time free at leisureOvernight at hotel. Day 02: Nameri National ParkEarly morning go for the nature walk and the bird watching trip into the dense jungle of Nameri National Park with the forest guards. Afternoon you can opt for mild river rafting in Jia Bharali river adjoining to the Nameri National Park. (Optional) Breakfast, lunch and dinner at the camp.Overight at the camp

Day 03: Nameri / Bomdila (125 kms, 4 hrs drive)Morning after an early breakfast departs for Bomdila by the same vehicle.

En route visit Bhalukpong: Situated on the Assam-Arunachal border, 250 kms from Guwahati, Bhalukpong is another picturesque spot for angling and leisurely picnics. Tipi Orchid Sanctury and Research Center: An Orchidarium at Tipi (5 kms from Bhalukpong) on the way to Bomdila is the Botanical paradise. About 300 species of orchids can be seen in the flora – glass house. Some of them are rare and endangered species. By the side of the glass house there is an orchid museum too. Arrive Bomdila and check in at hotel. Bomdila: On the way to Tawang , situated at height of 8500 ft (distance from Tezpur 180 kms), Bomdila is a picturesque town in the foothills of Himalayas and the headquarter of West Kameng District the land of the Monpa, Sherdukpen, Aka (Hrusso), Miji and Bogun (Khawas) tribes. One can see the brilliant landscape and snow-clad Gorichen ranges of the Himalaya on a clear day. With its apple orchards, Buddhist gomphas and a magnificient view of the Kameng Valley Bomdila can be named as a mini paradise. Bomdila is also an ideal place for nature lovers with several trekking and hiking trails are now opened for the adventure seeker. Places of interest: Later Visit

Bomdila Monastery: The monastery has been built under the guidance of Dalai Lama. It is a residence of more than 200 Buddhist monks. From the monastery one can have the breathtaking view of the entire Bomdila. The time of pray is in dawn and dusk, attending which, one can have the absolute peace of mind.

Also visit craft center, where very fine wooden carpets of colourful designs and Masks are produced. Bomdila also offers a Bird's eye view of Kangto and Gorichen peaks (highest peaks in the state) amidst the Himalayan landscape and snow clad ranges. Overnight at hotel.

Day 04: Bomdila / Tawang (180 Kms, 6 hrs drive)Morning after breakfast ddepart by car for Tawang. En route visit

Jaswant Garh: The war memorial is located 14 kms from Sella Pass on the way to Tawang. The memorial pay homage to Jaswant Singh Rawat, Mahavir Chakra Awardee posthumous (the second highest award from the Indian Army). In the famous battle of Nuranang against Chinese in November 1962, Rawat and two other soldiers from 4th Batallion Garhwal Rifles were instrumental in killing 300 Chinese soldiers in 72 hours. Sella Pass: The entry point into the Tawang Valley is Sela pass at an elevation of 13700 ft above the sea level.. Legend says that a monpa woman supported sepoy Jashwant Singh during his battle with the Chinese. She brought sepoy Jashwant supplies and used to heal his wounds. When Jashwant got martyrdom she killed herself as an act of loyalty.The glimpse of Paradise Lake in the Sella Pass makes your visit worth. Most of the time the lake is covered with thick blanket of snow. Arrive Tawang and check in at hotel.Evening free at leisure.Overnight at hotel.

Day 05: TawangMorning after breakfast explore Tawang, visiting Tawang Monastery (Vihar): Tawang Monastery about 400 years old, situated at an altitude of approximately 10,000 ft. is the second largest Buddhist monastery in India. It also holds the distinction of being the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. The monastery is the house of more than 700 monks. The monastery was founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso, in 1681 in accordance to the wishes of the 5th Dalai Lama, Nagwang Lobsang Gyatso. As per the legend, the site of the Monastery was chosen by the horse of Merag Lama. Merag Lama, who had been unable to decide a site to establish the monastery. One day he was praying in cave, seeking a divine guidance. When he came out after the prayers, he found his horse was missing. On search, the horse was located standing quietly on a hilltop. Considering that as the sign of divine blessing he decided to construct the monastery at the very spot. The monastery is also called Galden Namgey Lhatse meaning celestial paradise. There is a magnificent 8 meter high statue of Lord Buddha. The ancient library inside the courtyard has an excellent collection of thangkas, painted with the blood from the nose of 5th Dalai Lamaand valuable Buddhist manuscripts mainly Kanjur and Tanjur numbering 850 bundles.

Urqelling Monastery: It is the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama who is the only Indian to have risen to such a high position in Gelupka Sect of Buddhism so far. Inside the monastery there are several Stupas (Vihar) and people from all walks of life visit this place during Buddhist new year to get the blessing for the coming year.The Craft Center: The craft center in Tawang sells beautiful masks, hand woven carpets, jewellery in silver, coral and amber, ‘chubas’ the local dressand delightful affordable mementos.

Tawang War Memorial: The memorial is dedicated to the martyrs of the 1962 Sino-Indian war. The memorial is 40-foot-high and like a stupa in design. It is locally called ‘Namgyal Chortan’. The names of 2420 martyrs imprinted in gold on 32 black granite plagues.

Sangestser Lake: Popularly known as Madhuri Lake is located 35 kms away from Tawang near the China Border. The drive to Sangestser Lake is full of thrill and one can still see the war bankers that had been used during the Chinses aggression in 1962 and the beautiful PTSO lakeDay 06: Tawang / Dirang (140 kms, 5 hrs drive)

Overnight at hotel.

Day 06: Tawang / Dirang (140 Kms, 6 hrs drive)Morning after breakfast depart for Dirang.

En route stop at the Nuranang fa+lls.

Arrive Dirang and check in at the hotel.

Dirang: Dirang 40 kms from Bomdila is situated at an altitude of 1497 meters. It is an ideal hill resort in West Kameng district with beautiful Apple Nursery, Kiwi Farm, Yak Research Centre, Buddhist Gompa, Hot Water Spring and ancient Dirang Jong (Fort). It is the base camp for trekking to Gorichen peak and other bird watching trails

Afternoon visit the natural hot spring, Apple gardens and the Yak Breeding farms. Day 07: Dirang / Bhalukpong (140 kms, 5 hrs drive)Morning after breakfast return to Bhalukpong.Arrive and check in at the tourist lodge.

Rest of the time free to explore the nature by your own.Overnight at tourist lodge. Day 08: Bhalukpong / Guwahati Depart. (255 Kms, 5 hrs drive)Morning after breakfast depart for Guwahati airport to catch the flight for onward destination.

Tour ends.

Governor visits Lumla, thrills over scenic beauty

Itanagar, Aug 4: It was like seeing true Arunachal Pradesh, said State Governor Gen J.J Singh while driving from Tawang to Lumla in Tawang district on July 31 last. The thrill and scenic beauty of the area is just wonderful, he added.

The Governor, who is on a visit to western part of Arunachal Pradesh, has undertaken a tour by land route to experience the excitement along with other infrastructure constrains on the route faced by the tourists, reports PRO to Governor.

During his hour-long stay at Lumla, before returning to Itanagar, the Governor visited the under construction Tara Devi statue. Interacting with the construction committee of the project, Gen Singh expressed his hope that the statue, when completed in next two years, will definitely bring peace and prosperity to the region as it will attract pilgrims and other believers along with tourist to picturesque town of Lumla. It will be like our famous Tawang Monastery, he added. Making cash contribution towards that statue, Gen Singh expressing his desired to visit it once completed.

The members of the committee informed that statue of Goddess Tara Devi, once completed can be seen even from Sela Pass on clear sky as also it will be seen from neighboring Bhutan.

As always concerned about the education of the children, accompanied by the first lady Anupama Singh, the Governor inspected the under construction Eklaviya School, Lumla. Going through the construction details, he urged upon the engineers to put on their best for the best construction in this far-flung area. Your effort will definitely encourage in giving quality education to our rural children, he pointed.

Earlier in the morning before leaving for Lumla, Gen Singh, who is the Honorary Colonel of the Maratha Light Infantry paid homage to the statue of Chhatarpati Shivaji Maharaj at Tawang, which was unveiled on June 3 last.

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains(From Tezpur to Bomdila)

A typical bomboo house in Tezpur suburb

The trip to Arunachal Pradesh began with a misadventure and ended with a hair raising one. After having been assured that we would commence with our journey at 6.30 A.M. sharp in the morning, we got up early and after the morning chores & ablutions, were all rearing to go for the famed destination. In order to be doubly sure, I went to the agency at 6.15 A.M. and was assured by its proprietor who goes by the nick-name of ‘Bhuttu’ that the vehicle was ready and we should check out of the hotel. On his advice I immediately rushed back to the hotel, cleared the check and was out on the street for the vehicle to arrive. After an irksome wait for about 15 minutes or so on the road, I asked the proprietor regarding the status of the vehicle who informed me that the vehicle which had arrived last night was being washed. Assured, we kept our vigil for another 15 minutes, but there was no sight of the said vehicle. By this time, the proprietor had slinked away and when I asked the person manning the counter, he gave the routine reply that the vehicle was being washed. We waited for a further period of about 20 minutes, sitting like a destitute on the road, akin to having been thrown out of the Hotel for non payment? My patience had really been tried by then and I went to the counter once again and asked the counter clerk to connect me to the proprietor. Having, got him over his mobile phone, I gave him a piece of my mind and asked him that in case he did not have the vehicle, he should tender back my advance payment made to him, so that I could negotiate with some other operator. The rebuke worked and dirty Sumo arrived with the outer side covered with filth and the rest all of you well understand. I got the boys to thrown a few buckets of water on the vehicle and then boarded it at around 7.30 A.M. and started for the onward journey.

Nameri National Park entry

The driver who was an irksome fellow and his antics I have already described in the travelogue of this series (titled – General Information), firstly made a detour to his house with the excuse of fetching warm clothing for the journey ahead. But this detour was pleasant as we got an opportunity to have a peek at the mighty Bharmaputra River and at the local village houses. However, after this brief detour, we commenced with our journey for our first

destination for the day in Arunchal Pradesh i.e. Bhalukpong. After getting the tank upped with 45 liters of diesel from Tezpur we raced towards our destination going past lush green fields with tinge of moisture in the air and looming black clouds in the distance. After journeying for and hour & a half we reached Balipara, which is a junction for traveling towards multifarious destinations in Arunachal Pradesh. Having gone past Balipara we entered the famed ‘Nameri National Park’, home to white-winged wood duck (Deo Hanh ) apart from the black bear, deer and elephants, which sometimes move onto the main highways too during the night. As we entered the Nameri area, it had started to rain heavily and as we were about to enter Bhalukpong, the back tyre of the vehicle got punctured, although I noticed the same instantly, the driver did not seem bothered. However, on my insistence he stopped the vehicle and reported that my presumption was correct, but in the same breath blurted out that the owner would not bear his medical expenses in case he fell ill and therefore, decided to take the vehicle at snails pace for the next 2 Kms. or so till he reached Bhalukpong. I was apprehensive that the rim of the vehicle would get damaged in the process, but he assured me that the vehicle usually carried far more weight when it traveled with ten people & luggage on board, with only the four of us in the vehicle, it was almost like running an empty vehicle.

The Jia Bhareli River at Bhalukpong

Orchids at Tipi Orchidarium We reached Bhalukpong at around 9.30 A.M. and after getting the necessary entry formalities completed, we got ready to fix the punctured tyre and install the extra tyre carried by the vehicle. But to our utter dismay, we found that that the extra tyre was totally worn out and the punctured tyre, due to abuse by the driver, had been damaged beyond repair. The driver rang up the proprietor of the firm immediately, who assured us of sending a fresh tyre on priority. To while away the time, we entered a local restaurant to have our breakfast and consumed the same at leisurely pace, assuming that the tyre would arrive in two hours time i.e. time taken by our vehicle to reach Bhalukpong. But when the tyre did to arrive even at 12.30 P.M and the driver was also slinking away out of eyesight leaving us stranded, I rang up the proprietor myself and sought an explanation for putting such tyre as extra in such treacherous conditions. However, after a long wait which seemed like eons, the tyre arrived at 1.15 P.M and we commenced with our journey at 1.30 P.M., having wasted one hour in the morning at Tezpur itself and four hours in Bhalukpong. This five hour delay cost us dearly as we had to give a miss to some destinations we had planned to visit during the course of the day.

Dense jungles beyond Bhalukpong & clouds gathering

The West Kameng River

Getting past Sessa - clouds enveloping the mountains all around Beyond Bhalukpong, at a distance of 05 Kms. lies Tipi situated on the banks of Jia Bhareli river or Kameng river which is famous for its Orchidarium. The Orchadarium house a variety of indigenous varieties of orchids inside green houses as well as maintains the species in primitive conditions, having been repatriated from places inside Arunachal Pradesh itself, but now endangered. Across the Kameng river is the Pakhui Wildlife Sanctuary, which appeared to be an interesting stop, where one can linger awhile, but due to paucity of time we had to drop this destination from our itinerary. Further ahead the road gradually snakes upwards and leads through many a small village strewn across. Our next stop was at a non descript place called Sessa from where the road bifurcates to another place called Seppa, inhabited by the Bungun tribe who are considered to be vicious & notorious by the locals all around and the drivers dread to travel to this place. The driver after having partaken lunch and after some honking of the horn

by my daughter, we started our journey beyond Sessa. The next destination that we reached was a small wayside ‘Durga Mandir’ maintained by the armed forces, before passing by the famous Nechiphu pass (zero point) situated at an altitude of 6000 feet/52 Kms. from Bhalukpong. Having crossed the pass, the road started its descent till it reached Tenga Cantonment at height of 4000 feet, in between we had a brief stop at a place called Nag Mandir where the details of vehicles etc. are entered by the local Police authorities. Enroute one can also visit Jamiri, which is at a distance of 67 Kms. from Bhalukpong and is famous for Fishing, Picnic spots, Megalithic stone and Rock climbing. Rupa, which is one of the sub-divisions of Bomdila and situated at a distance of 77 Kms. from Bhalukpong, this place offers views of natural Valley, Rupa Gonpa, Chilli-pam Monastery and the Wild life sanctuary (Near Singchung) and other places like Shergaon etc. The route to the Rupa valley bifurcates from Tenga and is another 10-12 Kms. from Tenga. However, having lost five hours and with the evening approaching fast and consequently the availability of daylight deteriorating rapidly, we had no other option left, but to bye-pass this destination as well. It was late in the evening when we reached Bomdila township and after seeking out a Hotel i.e. Hotel Tashi Den, we were ready to retire for the night. The rain & winds that lashed the township during the day, had brought down the temperatures considerably and we had to seek the warmth of the room heater to get cozy and drown a few cups of Coffee & drank hot water served by the Hotel staff, before we could gather energy to go and gorge out the dinner. The room being cozy and comfortable, we had a very pleasant nights sleep.

The Nechiphu Pass - all mist & rain

Nag Mandir - just before passing by Tenga (being Military base did not photograph the area)

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains(Around Bomdila)

View of the greater Himalayas from Bomdila top

The next morning offered the sight of a breathtakingly beautiful Bomdila township, which is situated at an altitude or 3,500 meters or 8500 feet, nestled high in the Eastern Himalayas and is the headquarters of the West Kameng district in Arunachal Pradesh and is at a distance of 165 Kms. from Tezpur. The township being the District headquarters naturally has all the modern amenities including Banks, ATMs, and STD Booths strewn around alongwith a plethora of Government Offices & Institutions. This lofty paradise is snow clad for most part of the year especially the winter months and makes a delightful destination to get away to in summer as we experienced the chill during the previous night.

A view of the Bomdila Monastery

The town is surrounded by lush apple orchards that stretch far and wide. Since we were not hard pressed for the next leg of the journey, which was to culminate at Dirang, situated at a distance of only 42 Kms. away from Bomdila and takes only around one & half hours to two hours, if driven to leisurely. We got up from bed and after having tea and having refreshed ourselves and gorged in the morning breakfast, we started our little expedition of unraveling

Bomdila. Bomdila itself is a tiny township, but it is spread over a wide ridge that straddles a mountain. Bomdila, like other towns in the area, has a strong Buddhist and Tibetan influence. There are a fair number of gompas (small monasteries) here and the town has quaint little eating-places where you can savour traditional Tibetan cuisine plus the all time favourite momos and thoopas. The market is small but packed with many local goods, especially the Craft Centre at Bomdila turns out a range of superbly designed dragon carpets that are on sale. Also produced at the centre are traditional thangka wall hangings, paintings and masks. Most of these are intricately crafted with minute details and varied themes. However, since we had been to Sikkim during last year, we found that the market at Gangtok was far more enticing than the one here.

Front view of the Bomdila Monastery The Bomdilla monastery is situated above the township and commands a panoramic view of the township and valleys below. The monastery is under renovation and the newly constructed Monastery is very colourful and lends a very special sparkle to the entire environ and is very soothing for the eyes. We laundered around the monastery, watching the monks performing their daily chores and appreciating the riot of colours spread by the nature through its many blooming flowers.

Another view of the greater Himalayas from Bomdila top Next we ascended up to Bomdila top i.e. the highest point on the Bomdila mountain spur and also houses the defense telecommunications tower, but the entry is barred. A army one tonne truck was grunting its way up with its load of water tank filled to the brim and the amount of water it was spilling compelled us to think aloud as to how much water will actually reach its destination on the hill top? After some persuasive honking by the driver, as the road was too narrow to let two vehicles pass or overtake simultaneously, the driver of the army truck relented and let us get past! We reached the top without further ado and the sight was just breathtaking, whereas on one side was the range of snow laden mountain range and on the other the gathering of clouds at the Nechiphu pass, which appeared to be mattress of soft white cotton strewn over, we all were really mesmerized. Having clicked with our cameras, my wife shooting family photographs with her free-focus camera, my son with his Digital camera following my foot-steps and myself using my SLR, Digital Video Camera as well as the standard Sony Handycam, the driver too expressed his surprise at the collection of Cameras being carried by us, we started with our descent back.

Clouds nestling in the region of Nephichu pass as seen from Bomdila top A number of treks and hikes into the mountains also start from Bomdila. From simple little walking trails to more strenuous treks, Bomdila is at the hub of hiking activity in the Kameng region. So we came back home with a little bit of Bomdila in your suitcase - and a lot of Bomdila in our hearts! (as promised over the internet).

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains(Around Dirang)

Birds eye view of Dirang

DIRANG, situated between Bomdila and Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh is about 42 Kms. from Bomdila. It is at a much lower altitude than Bomdila and thus, the weather is much milder & comfortable, a constant wind blows along the river valley making it a very pleasant place to stay. After having lapped up the nature’s grandeur spread out at Bomdila top, we slowly descended towards the valley below. Dirang is placed at an altitude of 1497 meters/4910 feet, as against Bomdila, which is placed at an altitude of 8500 feet. This particular portion of the route, especially the one just below Bomdilla and another part near Munna Camp, are prone to landslides, as the roads that cut through them are through mountains which are primarily composed of small rocks & mud and thus, even a heavy downpour can bring down a mud slide and cut-off the road link. Munna has a small village which appears to be placed right in middle of the river, Dirang Chu (‘Chu’ means ‘River’ in local dialect) which runs parallel to the main highway all the way upto & beyond Dirang. The other notable feature noticed in this part were the cultivated fields, which unlike the mountains of north India, are not terraced, but placed on the slope, probably due to much more heavy rainfall in this part as compared to north Indian mountains.

Villages & fields - a typical Monpa Village enroute Dirang

View of Munna CampDirang as such does not have a whole lot to see but it has an intrinsic spectacular scenic beauty and an ideal place to rest for a while. Therefore, in order to give our tired souls some rest and to replenish our energies, we decided to stay put in Dirang for three nights. However, when we reached Dirang we found out that none of the hotels in the main bazaar area of the township did not have any rooms available for three days at a stretch. There are a plethora of hotels available in the Bazaar area like Ma Lakshmi Lodge, Moon Lodge etc. but they were just basic and not at all appealing, as they appeared to be unkempt, dirty & congested devoid of proper ventilation. This unavailability of rooms in the main bazaar area ultimately turned out to be a boon for us, so far as living conditions were meant and we were referred to a nicely spruced complex called the ‘Tourist Lodge’, which is placed next to Hotel Pemaling, the only decent Hotel in Dirang. I have already described my experience regarding the Tourist Lodge in my very first part of the present series of travelogues and would not like to dwell on it, any further, in this regard. However, I have learnt one good lesson while staying in Dirang, which I would like to share with my readers i.e. experienced gained by interacting with many families/drivers etc. who transited through Dirang during the few days that I spent in there, I found out that most of the journeys undertaken to this region was best undertaken with tour operators, for the following reasons – (i) They have personal contacts in this region; (ii) They move in groups, which makes it all the more secure; (iii) Most of them travel with a cook in tow and rent kitchen of the Hotel where they put up their guests and provide them meals, which the tourists are akin to, thus making the journey more wholesome.

View of the main entry to Dirang Dzong

View of the outer periphery of Dirang Dzong

Dirang offers some interesting spots which a traveller can explore and the most striking one is the Dirang Dzong (fort), with an array of 500-year-old stone houses located in its ruins, one can experience first hand, the culture & ethos of the local Monpas. This 17th century monument represents the authority of the monastic rule through which the Monpas carried out their public administration during the past. It was also the centre of military and judicial activities concerning the entire population within its jurisdiction. The DZONG (fort) was built in

Dirang in 1831. It is at a strategically located hill top and comprises of an array of four storied fortified stone buildings in which the entire village could take refuge at the time of war. It is the only one of its kind in the entire area. The two-storied fort was built out of huge stone slabs and wooden logs. The wooden gate leading to the fort is decorated with local architectural designs.

View of the Kiwi Orchard

View of the Hot Water Spring in Dirang The other local attractions, which the tourists visit, are the National Yak Research Center (situated half-way between Dirang and Tawang). The Regional Apple Nursery & Kiwi Farms are situated across the river valley and one has to cross over through a small bridge. The entire township which is concentrated over an area of less than a kilometer, offers a good view of the topography of the township, apart from views of sloped farms with view of little wonderful villages scattered around the hills. The other famed tourist spot is the Hot Water Spring, which is also the main attraction for locals, who supposedly take bath in the Hot Springs as its water is said to possess curative properties. However, I was most dejected after having undertaken a long trek down from the main road, as an Ecological Camp has come up at the site, with a Cafeteria right in front of the Hot Spring, which is not only blocks the view of the Hot Spring, but also creates more ecological hazards, rather than preserving the ecology there for which it is meant & sounds. The local environment department needs to take a look at this, before it gets too late to redeem the hot spring.

View of the famous Sangti Valley

View of the traditional water flour mill or ChuskarAt a distance of 12 Kms. beyond Dirang is the famed Sangti Valley, Sangti is dotted with numerous picturesque spots, which are ideal for holidaymakers. One of the prime attractions is a sheep breeding farm. The other one being the Chuskar (traditional water mill), a flour mill system using hydro power, which is used by the villagers to grind the millets. The Sangti valley is the favored tourist destination for avid bird watchers as well as it is home to the endangered back necked cranes during winter months which come to nest here from Tibet.

View of typical Monpa house or a Cher Khyem

Dirang is also used as a Base camp for trekking & bird watching at Mandla or Madla Phudong (local name), it is situated at a distance of about 28 Kms. from Dirang. The place is situated on a mountain ridge high up, with few villages strung far apart. It is a real ecologist’s delight and although we could hear a variety of birds singing, but could not spot one because of the dense foliage all around and thus, no photographs. Yet the visit to this spot was rewarding in itself as we could see some virgin forests and observe typical villages & villagers at work enroute. A Monpa village comprises of many houses which are locally called Khyem and are generally rectangular in shape & double storied made of wooden posts & beams and walls are constructed of crudely cut stones smeared with mud. However, the poor people live in houses constructed entirely out of bamboo and are called Cher-Khyem.

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains(Dirang to Tawang - a memorable journey)

View of the road above Senge

This part of the journey was one of the most memorable in the entire tour as the scenic beauty was like a luxurious visual treat thrown out by the nature for us to savor. The journey started early in the morning at 6.30 A.M and as we went past Dirang, the river Dirang Chu kept company with us for quite some distance with the gurgling & dancing shimmering water jumping from rock to rock with gay abandon. Gradually the small villages with shops became sparse as we gained height and slowly we gained height the clouds appeared to be drifting below us and it appeared that we were riding on back of the famed ‘Udan Khatola’!

View of Baisakhi from road above The first stop enroute to Tawang was a place called ‘Senge’, it is placed at an altitude of around 9000 feet and offers spectacular views of the valley below. Here we felt as if we were on top of the clouds, with the whiffs of clouds drifted below in the valley, slowly traversing it and gradually gaining height as the day temperature rose with sun rising on top of the mountains above. Since Senge is a transit post of the military, no photography is permitted in its actual vicinity. Next comes a place called ‘Baisakhi’, which is another military station and vehicles are not permitted to stop. As the day temperature rises in the valley below, the hot air moves upwards towards the cooler environs, bringing with it the clouds and simultaneously, the cold mountain winds moves towards the valley below and thus, results in the strong but pleasant surface winds that we encountered at Dirang. This movement of clouds creates a very dense fog between Senge & Baisakhi, especially during the afternoons, which lasts till late in the evenings and all the local drivers are well aware of this phenomenon factually, if not scientifically. The drifting clouds in the valley below you, is such a surreal experience! That it is very difficult to describe its beauty in words.

View of the famed Sela Pass

View of the Paradise Lake at Sela PassHaving got past Baisakhi, one suddenly comes up to the SELA PASS,which is the world's second highest motor-able pass at 13,700 ft. height. It was cold and windy when we reached Sela, even with the winter clothing on, the wind seemed to penetrate through all layers of clothing’s and setting chill through the body. We took shelter in a small residence cum stall run by a local family and the warmth of the wooden stove was the most comfortable aspect. In order to shoot a few pictures, I ventured out with the ear muffs on to avoid cold wind, but the effort was every bit rewarding as the picturesque setting of the Paradise Lake at this height with the reflections & refractions of light was a stunning experience. From the sign post put up by the Border Road Organization (BRO for short), which maintains this road throughout the year, I could decipher the way towards ‘Chabri la’, leading to the famous Bangajung Gompa. The weather clears, as well as deteriorates very quickly at these heights and as the weather had started worsening, we thought it wise to proceed ahead immediately.

View of the main entry to Jaswant Garh

Inside the main memorial at Jaswant GarhThe next stop was at JASWANT GARH ( 14kms. from Sela Pass), the War Memorial raised to pay homage to Jaswant Singh, a soldier who received the Mahavir Chakra awarded by the Govt.

of India for bravery Posthumously. It is a place where patriotic emotions of all Indians find a natural expression and the national anthem plays with all its fervor in your sub-conscious mind. There are two stories that make rounds regarding this place, one the official line that is enshrined in the epitaph erected by the Army, which states that in face of heavy MMG (Medium Machine Gun), which the Chinese had placed at a vantage point to obliterate the post after their two of their attacks had been beaten back by our armed forces. This placement of the MMG hardy 40 meters from the post was slowly tilting the balance in favour of the Chinese. Three brave soldiers, namely RFN Jaswant Singh Rawat, LNK Trilok Singh Negi (Vir Chakra, Posthumous) and RFN Gopal Singh Gusain (Mahavir Chakra) of the 4th Garwal Rifles equipped with most basic arms & grenades moved towards the Chinese position and from a distance of about 15 meters they threw Grenades into the Chinese bunker and charged at it. They found two Chinese soldiers dead and third dying but still holding on to the MMG. RFN Jaswant Singh Rawat snatched the MMG from the Chinese with both his hands and started crawling back towards his trench, however, a Chinese bullet caught him in his head just as he was about to enter the trench, similarly, LNK Trilok Singh Negi was also caught in a burst of automatic Chinese firearm and RFN Gopal Singh Gusain, though badly injured, dragged back the MMG and this changed the battle scene altogether and the Chinese had to beat a retreat, leaving behind about 300 dead soldiers and many arms & weapons. For this act of bravery on face of almost abominable force, the 4th Garwhal Rifles was awarded the battle honors of “Nuranang” in 1962, the only unit to have been awarded such an honor during the Chinese aggression. The other story, which the locals tell you and has become a local folklore, is that this brave son of the country showed unmatched valor by fighting and holding the invading Chinese for 72 hours, all alone with the help of his local female friend called Sela (in whose name the famous Sela pass is named). Both of them hoodwinked the Chinese into believing that there was a big military presence in the area, as they used to fire simultaneously from two or more locations using ropes/wires to activate the guns. It was but a tryst with destiny that the Uncle of Sela, who used to provide for food and other essentials to these two, was caught by Chinese guards and on interrogation spilled the beans. Whereas, Sela was killed in a grenade attack, Jaswant Singh Rawat continued to fight till the last and when his bullets finished, he shot himself in the head with the last bullet. The Chinese were so pissed at his overtures that they beheaded him posthumously and carried away his head as a prized possession, the RFN had thus indented his mark in the history before he met the martyr's end.

View of the Jung fallsHaving gorged ourselves with some snacks & coffee at the defense run canteen at Jasawant Garh, we then proceeded for the famous Nuranang or Jung Water falls, the picturesque scene of the famous film ‘Koyla’ (starring Shah Rukh Khan & Madhuri Dixit). The fall is indeed awe inspiring, as it falls for almost 100-150 meters or more from the top to bottom. However, it is not only the height that is immense, the volume of water that cascades down in an enormous din is astounding and the first view of the falls, made my jaws fall wide apart. The source of water that feeds this immense falls, is the paradise lake at Sela & mountain streams running in Sela-Bunga-Jung ranges, the water ultimately falls into Tawang Chu’s (Chu means River) left bank, which in turn runs out into Bhutan, before ultimately draining out into the Bramhaputra.

Panoramic view of the Nuranag or Jung fallsThereafter, we made our way towards Tawang, which was our final destination and completed this last leg of 40 Kms. from Jung falls in about one & half hours time.

Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains(Tawang – the last Shangri la)

A panoramic view of the Ganden Namgyal Lhaste or Tawang monastery Nestled in the lap of Himalayas, at 11,500 feet above sea level, lies the famous Tawang monastery also called the land of the Monpas. A colorful canvas against a backdrop of the nature, it fills one's mind with spiritual bliss. Apart from the Tawang Monastery, the other important places that one can visit are the War Memorial & Crafts Centre within the precincts of the township. Having rested for the day after arriving from Dirang, we went for an excursion of the township the next day.

View of the Tawang town centreTawang Monastery - The legendry 17th century Tawang Monastery, perched atop a hill, juxtaposed against the clear blue sky, its first sight itself is an ethereal bliss. The Tawang or Ganden Namgyal Lhatse is the second largest monastery in Asia, next only to the one at Lahsa in Tibet. It is located atop a hillock at a height of about 10,000 feet, overlooking the Tawang Valley and resembles a fortress. With a history of over 400 years, having been founded by Lama Lodroe Gyamtso in 1681, the monastery is the largest of its kind in the country and controls seventeen Gompas in the region. It is the fountainhead of spiritual life for the followers of the Gelugpa sect of the Mahayana School of Buddhism. It is the fountainhead of the spiritual life of the Monpas and the Shedukpens. The Tawang monastery, apart from housing almost 800 Lamas with their living quarters and a huge kitchen to feed them also encompasses within its precincts the main prayer hall, called the Dukhang, which houses the huge 28 feet high gilded statute of Lord Buddha. The Monastery follows a strict hierarchy and from the lowest order it ascends in the following manner – (i) Lama; (ii) Ghesi; (iii) Galong & finally the highest in the order i.e. Rimpoche. Tawang is also associated with the famous Torgya festival, which is held in the 11th Monpa month called the Dawa Chukchipah (i.e. December to January as per the Gregorian calendar). The festival brings out the Monpas from far and wide in all their colourful finery. The festival provides ample opportunities for the Gompas to sell an array of all their wares.

A birds eye view of Tawang Monastery & township

View of the statute of Buddha in the main prayer hall

Main entry gate of the Tawang Monastery

A wall panel inside the monastery

The main prayer hall outside view of the building

One of the artefacts kept in the museum maintained by the Monastery

Another artefact - a mask - kept in the museum maintained by the Monastery

Another artefact kept in the museum maintained by the MonasteryTawang War Memorial – Built by the armed forces, as a monument dedicated to the memories of all those brave soldiers, who perished against the uncalled for offensive by the Chinese, while defending their motherland in 1962. It is a monument, where a 40 feet high Stupa has been built and houses many memorabilia of the 1962 Sino-Indian war, giving a glimpse into history of what our troops had to face while defending this god-forsaken land. It is situated about one kilometer from the town centre, below the famous Nehru Market.

Front view of the Tawang War Memorial

Standard Indian army equipment issued to soldiers in 1962 Sino-Indian war

A photograph of the terrain in 1962

Chinese army issue - automatic weapons in 1962 war against our vintage WW-I issue - Himalayan blunder? Crafts Centre – Situated at a distance of about 2 kilometers from the heart of town. The Craft Centre has been established with the purpose of promoting the manufacture of local handicrafts and one can buy thangkas, carpets, masks, wooden bowls, carved wooden tables (known as chok-tse) and many other trinkets at reasonable rates. It is advisable to purchase from the craft centre only as the local shops in the town centre price their goods at very exorbitant rates. Ugyenling Monastery – This place is situated about five kilometers from the town centre, was established by Ugyen Sangpo, the youngest brother of Pemalingpa, the famous Treasure Revealer (1450-1521). It was the first of the three Nyingmapa monasteries built in the Mon Tawang region by him, the other two being tose of Sangyeling and Tsogyeling. However, this monastery is most famous amongst the three, as the sixth Dalai Lama, Tsangyang Gyatso was born here in 1683. However, as of now only a shadow of its former grandeur can be seen as the sixth Dalai Lama was deposed off in 1706 by one Lajang Khan and his forces, which was sent against Bhutan also invaded Tawang and destroyed the temple to obliterate the memory of the Sixth Dalai Lama.

Enchanting Himalayas around Tawang(Arunachal Pradesh – the land of dawn lit mountains- Part VIII)

View of Tawang from the road aboveAfter having visited the places within Tawang, we chose to explore the areas situated above Tawang. With its cascading waterfalls, and glistening snow-white peaks, Tawang brings you closer to Mother Nature and was the most memorable & enchanting exploration of this tour. However, except for the Bramhi Ani Gumpha, foreigners are not permitted to travel to this part

of the district. The inner line permit issued to the Indian citizens are also strictly checked and regulated beyond Tawang township area.

Brama Dungchung Ani Gumpha

View of the monastery tankha paining insideBrama Dungchung Ani Gompa – The road above Tawang bi-furcates, one leading towards the Ani Gompa and the other towards Sungester or Madhuri lake and Bumla. The Monpas have a tradition of nunneries called "Ani Gompas". Traditionally at least one girl from a family joined an Ani Gompa. However this practice no longer exists. The nunnery is situated about 5 Kms. towards north & above the Tawang township and also called the Ganden Thekchen Choeling. This nunnery was founded by a Buddhist monk named Kachen Yeshi Galek in 1826. The main prayer hall of the monastery houses the images of Lord Buddha, Avalokesetesvera etc. The nunnery houses about 40 nuns.

View of the Panggang Homa Tso or Heart Shape LakePanggang Homa Tso – After retreating back to the point where the road bifurcates, we proceeded towards the famed ‘Sungester or Madhuri Lake’. We were directed to produce the ‘Inner Line Permit’ at the entry check post and only after due verification, permitted to proceed ahead. The first of the first alpine lakes (Tso in local parlance) that we encountered was called the Panggang Homa Tso which literally translates into Grassy(Panggang) Lower(Homa) Lake. Because of its shape, this lake is also known as the ‘Heart shaped Lake’. The view from this lake is ethereal and the view of the Ghesi La (La in local parlance means Mountain) & distant Sela Pass juxtaposed against the valley stuns your senses.

Panoramic view of the P T Tso or Panggang Teng TsoPanggang teng Tso – This alpine lake is situated about 14 Kms. from Tawang at an altitude of 4100 meters or approximately 13,500 feet and literally translates to Grassy Meadow Lake also popularly known as the P.T Tso. The lake is situated almost 100 to 150 meters below the main road and being at such height, the air is rarefied with low oxygen content and therefore, it is not advisable to trek down to the lake side, as the ascent back to the road becomes really laborious and on quite a few occasions (as told by the driver), tourists have had to be rendered medical aid. The view is really spectacular of a big lake juxtaposed against the deep blue sky and monstrous mountains in the backdrop with Yaks grazing below. The area beyond are replete with small alpine lakes of all shapes & sizes and the locals tell you that there are about 108 such lakes in the vicinity.

View of the Nagku La Tso

Nagku La Tso– A few kilometers beyond P.T. Tso likes the lake whose name literally translates to Snake Mountain Lake. It is a small lake which is guarded by a small mountain spur on one side but offers a beautiful view because of its overall natural composition of the surrounding landscape.

View of the surreal Sungestar or Madhuri LakeSungester Tso – The ascent continued for another few kilometers upto a junction from where the road again bifurcates, one going toward the Lake and the other towards Bumla. After making another round of entries at the check-point, which is situated at about 14,500 feet the road started descending towards the lake which is about 42 Kms. from Tawang. This lake has become all the

more popular after shooting of a dance sequence for the movie ‘Koyla’ (starring Shah Rukh Khan & Madhuri Dixit) in 1996 and has since been rechristened as ‘Madhuri Lake’. The original name of the place was Jong-nog-tseir and was a grazing ground for cattle, till a lake was formed in 1973, after an earthquake caused a mountain side to slide down and block the road of the stream flowing through it. The trunks of bare trees standing in the middle of the lake like its sentinels provides for a surreal visual.

Chum chung Meadow or Dung flower

Jumguyu Meadow Beyond Tawang as the nature is still preserved in its primordial form and is replete with a variety of alpine vegetation endemic to this area. Some of the interesting flora was apart from the Rhododendrons of various hues & colors, some flowers which were growing in abundance. One such flower that covered entire hill sides was a yellow colored flower on small herbs which the locals call as the Chum Chung Meadow, which literally means as the dung (Chum Chung) flower (Meadow in local parlance means flower). Another flower that abounds in the area whose fruits are also edible, is a white colored flowering shrub called the Jumguyu Meadow.

View of the rivulet that feeds Sungester Lake During this trip, the driver who was not only reasonable in his rates, but also a thorough gentleman, called Tolo (Mobile Phone No.09436678726), who took only Rs.1500/- from us for this particular trip. He met us outside the Taxi stand and was a complete contrast with the other drivers who were quoting Rs.2500/- upwards for the same trip and Rs.1000/- for destinations within Tawang, whereas he had charged only Rs.600/- for the same. I am putting a word on his behalf because such persons need to be encouraged against those who only seek to fleece & exploit the tourists.

Mystique of gompas in the mistPartha S. Banerjee

The giant gilded Buddha in the Tawang monasteryThe giant gilded Buddha in theTawang monastery

THE lakes there in those remote misty mountains tend to get named after leading Indian ladies. High in the northeastern Himalayas, beyond Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh, the sublime, blissful environs of the PT Tso (tso in Tibetan means lake) couldn’t be further away from the fast-paced athletic world of the "Payoli Express," the lady who almost won an Olympic medal for India. For that matter, what indeed could scenic Madhuri lake evoke that is at once beautiful, glamorous and sensual. What could lie beneath its watery vestment?

The roots of tall, ancient trees, for one. Madhuri lake, 42 km from Tawang, was formed in 1950, following a major earthquake. Its bed, once a forested slope, sank in the tremor, taking with it the

forest of tall pine trees. As water filled in, the trees died but their bare lofty trunks remained, standing sentinel over the serene blue lake that’s encircled by high mountains.|EARLIER COLUMN

Image makeover for GoaErvell E. MenezesDecember 8, 2002

Finding peace in picturesque PondicherryV. S. MahajanDecember 1, 2002

Bowled over by beautiful beaches at BhitarkanikaRicha BansalNovember 17, 2002

Florence: Where antiquity jostles with romanceSushil KaurNovember 10, 2002

Tirupati: A shrine enriched with the wealth of faithAmar ChandelOctober 27, 2002

Darma Valley: Adventure & nature lovers’ havenTarun K. RoyOctober 6, 2002

Dadra and Nagar Haveli: A date with pristine beauty and tribal mysteryUsha BandeSeptember 29, 2002

Smitten forever by scenic splendour of SikkimSanjeev SharmaSeptember 22, 2002

Get ready to visit pretty SpitiPartha S. BanerjeeSeptember 8, 2002

The lure of Niagara Falls has not dimmedNutan SehgalAugust 25, 2002Priceless artefacts hidden away from tourists’ eyesShona AdhikariAugust 18, 2002Goa: Sensual, salubrious, secludedPartha S. BanerjeeAugust 11, 2002A town in which the archaic and modern meetMohan BhattJuly 28, 2002Magic of the monsoon trek to BhimashankarSarvesh

July 21, 2002Stone Age man lived in these rock sheltersN. P. MehtaJune 30, 2002

Encircled by towering cliffs, the Madhuri Lake is extremely picturesque.Encircled by towering cliffs, the Madhuri Lake is extremely picturesque.

It’s a sight so picturesque, it would catch anybody’s imagination. As it did of the director of the Hindi film Koyla (1997) who chose it as locale for a sequence starring Madhuri Dixit. There, now you know how the lake got its popular name; its official name is Sangetsar lake though few use it these days. As for PT Tso, that’s Army abbreviation. The lake’s actual name is Pangong-Tang Tso but the Army, which has a big presence in the area (being so close to the Chinese border) and which maintains the roads, can’t be bothered with such long-winded foreign-sounding appellations. So, PT Tso. (With due apologies to P.T. Usha).

Visits to the Madhuri (Sangetsar) lake and PT Tso are excursions that you might take while on a visit to Tawang, Arunachal’s best-known tourist destination. Thanks to its remoteness (it takes two days to reach the mountain town from Tezpur in Assam), Tawang still remains a largely unspoilt destination. What’s more, it has attractions few resorts can match.

TRAVEL TIPS

Access: Fly from Calcutta to Tezpur (Alliance, twice weekly) and hire a taxi for the two-day trip to Tawang (365 km) with night halt at Bomdila. Taxis typically charges Rs 1300/day incl. fuel; shared Sumos cost Rs 350/person. Tezpur can also be reached by bus from Guwahati which has daily flights and trains to Calcutta and Delhi.

Accommodation: Bomdila has an excellent government tourist lodge, there’s a larger one at Tawang. The Shipyang Pong and Shangrila are Bomdila’s two best hotels; in Tawang, try Buddha, Shangrila, MacLeodgunj or NEFA hotel. In Tezpur, Luit Hotel is the best option. The most you would pay in any of these hotels is Rs 700 for a double room.

Best season: October to end December, March-May.

Take the journey, to begin with. An hour and half beyond Tezpur and the road enters jungle country. The mountains come soon after, as you cross into Arunachal at the border town of Bhalukpong. Thick fog often shrouds the hill road at places, giving an ethereal feel to the journey (though, with visibility falling, it’s no fun for the driver) but as the vegetation on the mountain slopes thins out and the military encampments begin, the mists begin to fade away. By early afternoon, you get your first view of Bomdila, the district town perched high on the mountain. It is a long, tortuous climb before Bomdila (alt. 9,000 ft), with its busy main street and two gompas, is finally reached.

It was till here that the Chinese had advanced during the 1962 War, and all along the road from Bomdila to Tawang and beyond are reminders of that invasion: military bunkers and memorials to brave Indian soldiers who fought the enemy till the bitter end. Dhirang, with an ancient dzong (fort) and a great view, is the last major village before the road begins its ascent to the Sela Pass (13,714ft). It’s windy and usually misty up at Sela; the grass cover is thin, there are no trees, and a little beyond the pass are two glacial lakes where tiny mountain birds flutter about. It’s bleak and desolate, except for any Army outpost where jawans offer hot tea and snacks.

A Yak grazing in the Tawang valleyA Yak grazing in the Tawang valley

Beyond Sela, the road gently descending, soon catches up with a gurgling stream called Nuranam; driving by the rivulet, you are bound to spot scores of hairy yaks grazing on its lush green banks. Presently, the village of Jang comes into view, sprawling over a steep slope down below. The road bends and twists as it descends to the village with it picturesque farmlands; it is here that the Nuranam joins the Tawang Chu river, meeting it in a spectacular waterfalls. It is an awesome sight: The water thundering down the heights in what seems vast irregular bursts, with swaying wind-blown sprays clouding the adjoining rockface.

Beyond Jang, the road, crossing the Tawang Chu river turns west and follows its course even as it ascends a slope that finally leads it to Tawang (alt. 10,000 ft). Tawang’s chief attraction, apart from the surrounding natural beauty, is it’s 400-year-old Buddhist monastery, reputedly the largest in India. Perched on a hill, the lamasery is a vast collection of ancient yellow-roofed houses enclosed within an encircling wall and dominated by the three-storey dukhang or assembly hall, the main temple.

It looks like a huge fortress from a distance but is in fact more akin to an ancient walled university town. Wrote Verrier Elwin, the famous anthropologist, in the mid-1950s: "The monastery ... reminded me of a mediaeval Italian town or, in many ways, of Oxford. Here was the typical old jumble of little streets lined with tall houses; here was the gentle casual atmosphere which concealed so much formality and protocol." Housing over 300 marooned-robed lamas and young novitiates (the lamasery’s 60-odd shas — or huts — can accommodate up to 500 lamas), the monastery is "at the heart of the life and culture" of the Buddhist Monpa people of Tibetan stock who live in the Tawang valley.

The monastery’s piece de resistance is, of course, the giant gilded Buddha statue in the dukhang. Over 26 ft high, the richly embellished statue must surely be among the tallest Buddhas housed within a temple anywhere. In the dukhang, also, is a museum displaying 600-700-year old statues of Tibetan Buddhist deities made of ‘limar’ (a compound of gold and silver), rare ancient masks incense urns, jars, an exquisite lamp, thankas, manuscripts, clothes of Mere Lama — the founder of the monastery — and toys and other possessions of the Sixth Dalai Lama who happened to hail from Tawang.

His birthplace, some 5 km away, is the site of the Urgelling monastery which dates back to the 15th century; there are many other relics of the Sixth Dalai Lama preserved in this gompa. Other interesting monasteries in Tawang’s environs include the nunneries (or ani gompas), Bramadung Chung and Gyangong, small establishments with women lamas, and the famous Taktsang monastery. Often called the Tiger’s Den Taktsang, 45 km from Tawang, stands on the edge of a steep forested ridge that is surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Guru Padmasambhawa, the Indian preacher who in the 8th century helped spread Buddhism in Tibet, is believed to have meditated at the site.

Taktsang is not very far from Madhuri lake; the same road, on way to Tawang, winds through the "lake district", a high altitude region with sparse vegetation, snowy mountains and a host of lakes and pools including the PT Tso. There is a lot of military activity here but around the lakes, especially PT Tso, the atmosphere is magically serene, the silence broken only by the jingling bells of yaks grazing on the banks.

Unless, of course, a pair or two of the rare golden ducks suddenly appear. Their raucous calls rents the rarefied air as they echo across the silent desolate hills. It is a piercing cry, yet it seems strangely illusory here in this tranquillity, amidst the mist and the snows and the shimmering lakes.

zEMITHANG

The solitary splendour of a stupa in the wilderness

Legends have it that Lama Sangye Pradhar built the colossal Gorsam chorten in an effort to rid the area of evil spirits, says Partha S. Banerjee

Gorsam Chorten: Surrounded by legendsGorsam Chorten: Surrounded by legends

IN remotest India, a colossal monument. Who built it and why? Look on it, ye traveller, and admire! And ask not questions, for the answers are uncertain, lost in documents that have long disappeared. There are the fables, of course, stories that Monpa grandmothers in Zemithang tell their grandchildren. Of a lama bearing a monkey name who travelled far and wide in search of funds and ideas. Before Gorsam Chorten came to be built.

When we first sighted the gigantic chorten (stupa or reliquary monument), it quite took our breath away. From high on the steep ridge, as our vehicle negotiated innumerable hairpin bends to approach Zemithang (alt. 7,250 ft) from Tawang (alt. 10,000 ft) in Arunachal Pradesh, the stupa looked like a white, unusually shaped pyramid. built mistakenly perhaps in a lush green Himalayan valley.|EARLIER COLUMNClose to nature, yet not far from civilisationErvell E. MenezesMarch 9, 2003Bewitched by breathtaking BastarPartha S. BanerjeeMarch 2, 2003Bangkok: The Orient’s most fabled cityAdarsh BatraFebruary 16, 2003Kaziranga: An oasis for wildlifeV. P. PrabhakarFebruary 2, 2003

Munnar: Where tea plantations transform the landscapePartha S. BanerjeeJanuary 12, 2003

A picturesque princely resortTarun K. RoyDecember 29, 2002

Mystique of gompas in the mistPartha S. BanerjeeDecember 15, 2002

Image makeover for GoaErvell E. MenezesDecember 8, 2002

Finding peace in picturesque PondicherryV. S. MahajanDecember 1, 2002

Bowled over by beautiful beaches at BhitarkanikaRicha BansalNovember 17, 2002

Florence: Where antiquity jostles with romanceSushil KaurNovember 10, 2002

Tirupati: A shrine enriched with the wealth of faithAmar ChandelOctober 27, 2002

Darma Valley: Adventure & nature lovers’ havenTarun K. RoyOctober 6, 2002

Prayer flags in ZemithangPrayer flags in Zemithang

Closing in, the chorten’s enormous dimensions became more evident. Soaring to a height of 99.7 ft (about the same as a modern ten-storeyed building), Gorsam Chorten towered over the narrow river valley like a behemoth And it stood there apropos nothing. For nothing around suggested the site was once a major religious or administrative centre. No ruins of structures remotely comparable to it anywhere in its vicinity.

The village of Zemithang lay a mile away, an unpretentious Monpa (Buddhists of Tibetan stock) settlement at the head of a wide scenic valley carved by river Namjang Chu, flowing in from Tibet. The Tibetan (Chinese) border, in fact, could not have been too far away while Tawang, famous for its monastery and headquarters of the district with the same name, was 93 km to the southeast. This was Arunachal’s north-westernmost corner, sandwiched between Bhutan and China, remote and isolated.

But watched by the gods. Four enormous eyes of the "all seeing Buddha", painted on the pyramidal crown of Gorsam Chorten, keep vigil in all four directions. much as the ones on Kathmandu’s famous Swambhunath stupa. Indeed the chorten is a virtual replica of the Nepalese landmark: its giant hemispherical dome, crowned by a pyramidal head, resting on a square three-tiered base just as in Swambhunath, with small stupas on the plinth’s four corners.

Monpaman wearing the traditional Yak hair capMonpaman wearing the traditional Yak hair cap

And what little deviations there are from the Swambhunath stupa, blame it on the radish. For legend has it that Lama Sangye Pradhar, who supposedly built Gorsam Chorten, travelled to

Kathmandu and carved a miniature model of the shrine using radish. But the radish shrivelled on his journey back to Zemithang, crumpling the model somewhat. It took 13 years to build the chorten, but no one is quite sure when exactly it was built. Early 18th century is one widely held guess through legends stretch its antiquity by another 400 years. The written records of its history are all missing: one set, kept at the Tawang monastery, was destroyed by fire, while a second set was lost from a monastery in Tibet after the Chinese invasion. Descendants of Lama Sangye Pradhar had a third set, but that too can no longer be traced.

That leaves no option but to fall back on the legends. And the legends have it that Lama Sangye Pradhar built the colossal chorten in an effort to rid the area of evil spirits. Said Sony Khandu, the amiable Zemithang circle officer, "It is said that the region then was going through a terrible phase: crops were failing, strange diseases were afflicting people. It was then that the saviour was born, and one day, when his mother went to work in the fields, a monkey picked up the baby from a basket. The crying mother prayed fervently and after a day or two, the monkey brought back the baby. So they named him Sangey Pradhar — pradhar meaning monkey, and Sangey connoting enlightenment, for the child soon showed signs of prodigious knowledge and wisdom."

He grew up to become a lama but found little support from the villagers when he proposed building the chorten to drive out the evil spirits. Undaunted, he set off for Bhuttan, collecting funds, and finally ended up in Kathmandu and fashioning that miniature Swambhunath with radish.

For a person so remarkable, Sangye Pradhar couldn’t have had normal parents. So the legends have it that his father was an ascetic who mediatated in a cave up in the hills. But one day, some village women managed to distract him, they plied him with rakshi, the strong local beer, and inebriated, he lay with one of them. Thus was the Great One conceived.

Now you needn’t, of course, believe in the story but there’s no harm going on a trek to the cave where the ascetic reportedly mediated. It’s a one-day excursion and the views, Circle Officer Khandu assured us, are great. We did not however have the time for it.

Nor, indeed, did we have time for another short one-day trek to Lake Chamling Tso, close to the last Indian village on the Chinese border. The waters of the lake are thought to have aphrodisiacal qualities. The people in that village are all very sexy," laughed one Zemithang resident. The lake warns you also of impending danger. "If something bad is about to happen to you," he said, "you won’t be able to see the waters, so thick would be the mist." Well, we made it safely back to Tawang and then on to Tezpur and Calcutta. Surely, the waters that day must have been clearly visible.

Travel tips

Access: A trip to Zemithang must obviously be part of a tour of scenic Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh. A few buses operate between Zemithang and Tawang but hiring a vehicle would be advisable. Buses operate to Tawang from Tezpur (365 km); it is a two-day journey with night halt at Bomdila. Tezpur has regular buses connecting it to Guwahati (190 km) which is linked to Calcutta and Delhi by train and air services. There are also twice-weekly direct flights (IA) to Tezpur from Calcutta. Taxis can be hired for the entire journey from Tezpur at Rs 1300 day; shared Sumo taxis (Rs 350) are also available.

Accommodation: Zemithang has a government rest house which should be booked in advance from Tawang. Tawang and Bomdila have reasonably good hotels; there are also the state tourist lodges.

Day 07: BOMDILA - SELA PASSMorning drive to Sela Pass and start trekking to Chebra La (11 km/ 5 hrs). Overnight at tented accommodation.

Day 08: TREK FROM CHEBRA LA TO BANGAJANGAfter breakfast start our trek to Bangajang, approx 4 hrs. Overnight at tented accommodation.

Day 09: TREK FROM BANGAJANG TO NURANANGAfter breakfast trek to Nuranang (12 km/ 6 hrs). On reaching Nuranang, drive to Tawang. Check into Hotel.

Day 10: TAWANGAt Tawang with sightseeing. Overnight at Hotel.

BAILEY' TREK

the people.

Your trek tour starts from the Guwahati Airport in Assam. The modern highway which connects the Brahmaputra Valley to Tawang , encounters three ridges, all of them running roughly West to East. Of these the most formidable is the Sela Ridge rising up to 4900 Meters, which is crossed by the highway via the Sela pass at 4267 Meters, to reach Tawang, 3048 m. Toward the North and the East, beyond Tawang; the mountains ridges rise up to the Himalayan watershed enclosing Tawang in a horseshoe, marked by the peaks of Gori Chen at 6500 meters and Kangdo, which rears its head at a proud 7090 Meters

In ancient days crossing over the Himalayan watershed from Tibet over the Tukung-la pass the traders traveled along a different route. Descending down the head waters of the Tawang Chhu river, they crossed the Sela ridge along a yak trail, with their caravans of wool, skins, precious stones and yak butter to reach the barter markets in Assam.. Here they exchanged their loads for salt, tea, cloth, and other commodities. This route was first explored by British surveyors lead by F.M. Bailey in 1913 - and came to be called 'The Bailey Trail'. In 1962 the Chinese army used this route to strike deep into Arunachal Pradesh.

Our trek starts from the Dirang River Valley at Chander at an elevation of 2530 m. Over seven days it follows the "Bailey trail" to cross the the 4550 high Tse la Pass and then diverts along the general alignment of the massive Sela Ridge, making its way through a series of interlocking valleys connected through several passes to reach the highway at the Sela pass. The route

traverses through river valleys, quaint Monpa villages, and desolate high Himalayan pastures, passing through a fascinating mix of terrain - mixed sub tropical forests, coniferous forests of Pine, fir, Oak, and Chesnut, grasslands, Juniper, and Rhododendrons. There are lovely Alpine lakes and breathtaking views of the Gori Chen and Kangdo peaks. From the Se la pass you will drive to Tawang for a 02 nights visit taking in the Tawang Monastery and spend time exploring other sights around Tawang. Thereafter we will drive back over the Sela pass to the lovely Dirang Valley to stay for 02 nights, allowing us one full day to see the sights. Finally we take two days to return to Guwahati driving along the highway crossing over Bomdi la pass, with an overnight halt at Tezpur.

Itinerary:

Day 01: Drive Guwahati to Tezpur

Pick up from Guwahati airport. Drive to Tezpur, 181 Kms in 04.30 hrs, overnight at hotel.

Day 02: Drive Tezpur to Dirang, 1500 m via Bomdila

Drive 213 Kms in 06 hours to Dirang at 1500 m. Enroute visit Tippi Orchid research centre.

Day 03: Drive Dirang - Chander, 2530 m and Trek to Tungri, 3100 m

Early morning drive to Chander in two hrs. Weather permitting get your first view of the panorama of snows. Start Trekking. Steadily uphill along a good track, through forests for 04 -05 hours to the Camp 1 at a yak pasture. Overnight in camp.

Day 04: Trek Tungri, 3100 m to Chang la, 3650 m

A hard trek of 06 hours through coniferous forests with two steep climbs along a ridge to Camp 2, near Chang la pass , 3650 m. Superb views of the Sela range, surrounding valleys and the Himalayan watershed.

Day 05: Changla, 3650 m to Potak, 4200 m

Steady climb of 03 hours through scattered coniferous forests, juniper and Rhododendrons to cross over Posing la pass at 3950 meters. Trek continues for another 04 hrs. First we go down hill to cross a glacial stream, and then climb up to an alpine pasture to Camp 3 at Potak, 4200 meters at confluence of two streams.

Day 06: Trek Potak, 4100 m – Tse la, 4550 m – Lortum, 4100m

Trek steadily uphill beyond the tree line for 03 hrs to cross the high - Tse la, 4550 m. There is a small Alpine lake below the summit and breath taking panoramic views of the Sela ridge, river valleys, Gorichen (6500 m) and Kangdo,(7090 m) peaks on the Himalayan watershed. During October, whilst descending for 02 hrs to a river valley the trees and foliage presents spectacular fall colours.. Camp 5 at Lortum, 4100 m.

Day 07: Trek Lortum to Luguthang, 4500 m

A long hard day of trekking for 08 hours, Begin with a nice leisurely walk downhill with great views . Enjoy the stunning fall colours. Thereafter climb steadily on a near virgin trail for three to four hours to the Khokar la pass connecting the Lortam and Luguthang valleys It is a challenging trek as you encounter many false crests. Once at the top there are wonderful view of alpine lakes and in the far distance can be seen the river valley where Luguthang is located. The

descent into the valley and walk down to the campsite is one of the most stunning of the trip. Luguthang – a cluster of half a dozen graziers houses with a gompa, is located high up at 4500 m. From the surrounding ridges you can get good views of the Tawang Chhu Valley. Overnight at camp 5.

Day 08: Trek Luguthang to Tsonai, 4500 m

Another long hard days trek.. Crossing two major high passes, there are ascents and desents. You will be trekking at an average altitude of 4500 m, and affects of altitude combined with the long day make it perhaps the most challenging day. Camp 6 is set in a lovely pasture at Tsonai, 4500 m.

Day 09: Trek Tsonai to Se la, 4267 m. Drive Se la to Tawang, 3048 m

Morning reveals stunning view of the great peaks The last days trek is just for 02-03 hrs. There is the last pass to climb – The Kya la before descending to the Sela Pass, 4267 m.. Transfer to our jeeps to descend to the Tawang Chhu Valley at Jang. Steep descent of 31 Kms( 01 hr) through the rugged and narrow Nuranang Valley. Therafter we drive for 44 kms( 1.45 hrs) through picture post card country side, climbing up through a series of hair pins to Tawang, 3048 m. Overnight at your hotel.

Day 10: Tawang sightseeing

At Tawang - Explore the 350 years old Tawang Monastery, and have an audience with Rimpoche. The famous Galden Namgyal Lhatse, popularly known as Tawang Monastery was founded by Merak Lama Lodre Gyamtso in the year 1860-81. It is the fountain-head of the spiritual life of the Gelupa Sect of the Mahayana School of Buddhism. The inner walls of the Dukhang - the assembly hall are painted with murals of various divinities and saints. The silver casket wrapped in silk containing the Thankas of Goddess Palden Lhamo - the principal deity of the monastery, were painted with blood drawn from the nose of the fifth Dalai Lama. A colossal, richly gilded statue of Lord Buddha sitting 26 feet high, occupies the middle of the northern side. In the afternoon participate in a cultural program of songs and dance. Overnight at your hotel.

Day 11: Tawang Sightseeing

Visit Buddhist nunnery, crafts center, and Urgelling Monastery dating back to 1489 followed by the Seru Monpa village. The Urgelling Monastery is the birth place of the Sixth Dalai Lama. In 1714 the Dalai Lama’s original monastery at Urgelling was destroyed, during Mongolian invasion from Bhutan. All valued possession of Urgelling monastery were taken to Tawang Monastery. It was during this time that the Ka-gyur (holy scriptures) written out in gold and silver arrived at the Tawang monastery, where they are preserved to this day. Today a modest Gompa stands at this site. After early lunch drive back over the Sela pass to Dirang in 04 - 05 hours. Overnight at your hotel.

Day 12: Dirang sightseeing

Visit Sangti Valley, Yak Research centre, Dirang Dzong and Monpa heritage village. Overnight at hotel at Dirang.

Day 13: Dirang to Tezpur

Drive back to Tezpur, 215 kms in 06.30 hours. Overnight in hotel.

Day 14: Drive to Guwahati airport, 183 kms in 04.30 hrs, for your departure flight to Delhi/ Kolkota.

AVIAN ADVENTURE - 02

Guwahati- Orang - Pakke - Eaglenest - Nameri - Kaziranga - Guwahati (Deepor Beel)

(A 17 day visit to Assam and Western Arunachal covering three National Parks(NP), two Wild Life Sanctuaries (WLS) and an exclusive Greater Adjutant site with a natural lake (Proposed Bird Sanctuary)

Day 01: Guwahati-Orang NP (04 hrs):

Our tour manager will welcome you on your arrival at Guwahati airport. Later transfer to Orang National Park. Overnight at Forest Rest House/Tourist Lodge. With an area of 78.80 sq.km, Orang is the last refuge of the Great Indian one horned rhinos on the northern side of the Brahmaputra river. Sixty percent of the park is grassland. The area is a flat land with few depressions. Numerous streams running north to south drain the area which ultimately join the Brahmaputra. The habitat is composed of Eastern Seasonal Swamp Forests, Eastern Himalayan Moist Deciduous Forests, Eastern wet Alluvial Grassland & Khair-Sisoo Forests.

Long-billed vulture, Kaziranga

Long-billed vulture in flight, Kaziranga

Lesser adjutant, Kaziranga

Greater adjutants, Guwahati

Greater adjutant, Guwahati

Stork billed kingfisher, Kaziranga

Small niltava, Nameri

Sultan Tit, Nameri

Swamp francolin, Kaziranga

Deepor Beel Elephants - Kaziranga Greater Adjutant Guwahati An elderly couple at Kaziranga Deepor Beel A Stream, Nameri

Interesting Species: Bengal Florican, Swamp Francolin, Jerdon’s Bushchat, Pallas’s Fish Eagle, Greater Spotted Eagle, Black-necked Stork, Kalij Pheasant, Greater & Lesser Adjutants, Pied Harrier, Great Hornbill, Thick-billed Warbler, White-Cheeked Partridge, King Vulture, Ferruginous Pochard, Finn’s Weaver, Spot-billed Pelican etc.

Day 02: Orang NP:

Full day at Orang.

Day 03: Orang NP-Pakke (Pakhui) WLS (04 hrs):

Half day at Orang NP. Later after lunch transfer to Pakke WLS in the East Kameng district of Arunachal. Overnight at Seijosa Forest Rest House/Camps.

Pakke Project Tiger is a magnificent Wild Life Sanctuary in Western Arunachal. With an area of 862 sq.km & altitudinal variation of 100-2000m (accessible up to 300 m), it is contiguous with Eagle Nest WLS of Western Arunachal and Nameri National Park of Assam.

Low land evergreen forest, shingle banks, farmland, & plantations form the vegetation of Pakke.

Interesting Species: Blue-naped Pitta, Crow-billed Drongo, Daurian Redstart, Emerald Cuckoo, Grey Peacock-pheasant, Ibisbill, Jerdon's Baza, Lesser Shortwing, Leschenault's Forktail, Lesser Necklaced Laughing-thrush, Maroon Oriole, Pied Falconet , Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Red-headed Trogon, Sultan Tit, White-bellied Yuhina, White-browed Shortwing, White-cheeked Hill-partridge, Wreathed and Great Hornbills, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher-warbler etc.

Day 04: Pakke: Trek: Seijosa-Khari. Overnight at Forest Rest House/Camps.

Day 05: Pakke: Trek: Khari-Beyond Khari-Back to Khari.

Day 06: Pakke: Trek: Khari-Seijosa.

Day 07: Pakke-Eaglenest (06 hrs):

Birding till 9 am on the fringes of Pakke. Later transfer to Eaglenest WLS in the West Kameng district of Arunachal. Overnight at Sundarview camp.A magnificent wild life sanctuary, Eaglenest is located in the West Kameng district of Western Arunachal with an area of 218 sq.km & altitudinal variation of 500 m-3200 m from South to

North. It is accessible up to its highest point though the motorable road stresses up to 2800 metres. This wild life sanctuary is accessible in the monsoons as well due to its location.The vegetation consists of lowland evergreen forest, broad-leaved forest, bamboo, conifers, roadside scrub and farmland.

Interesting species: Ashy Wood-pigeon, Bay Woodpecker, Beautiful Nuthatch, Black-faced Laughing-thrush, Blue-fronted Robin, Beavan's Bullfinch, Brown Bullfinch, Brown-throated Treecreeper, Common Hill-partridge, Coral-billed Scimitar-babbler, Crimson-breasted Pied-woodpecker, Eye-browed Thrush, Golden Bush-robin, Grey-chinned Minivet, Little Forktail, Pied Falconet, Pale-headed Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Hawk-eagle, Rufous-necked Hornbill, Rufous-bellied Bulbul, Rufous-breasted Bush-robin, Scaly Laughing-thrush, Sultan Tit, Temminck's Tragopan, Wallcreeper, Chestnut-headed, Grey-bellied and Slaty-bellied Tesias etc.

Day 08: Eaglenest: Trek: Sundarview-Bompu. Overnight at camps.

Day 09: Eaglenest: Trek: Bompu-Sissni. Overnight at camps.

Day 10: Eaglenest: Trek: Sissni-Beyond Khellong-Back to Khellong. Overnight at Forest Rest House/Camps.

Day 11: Eaglenest (Khellong)-Nameri NP (06 hrs):

Transfer to Nameri National Park. Overnight at Eco Camp.

Tiger Pug Marks at NameriCovering an area of 200 sq km, Nameri National Park, located at the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas, is the best place to see the very rare & elusive White-winged Wood Duck. Nameri is a project tiger. The sparkling river Jia Bharali, which is ideal for rafting and angling, flows down by the National Park adding a unique charm to it. The habitat of the park consists of tropical evergreen, semi evergreen, moist deciduous forests with cane and bamboo brakes and narrow strips of open grassland along rivers. Nameri along with adjacent Pakke & neighbouring Eaglenest Wild Life Sanctuaries of Western Arunachal protects about 1300 sq.km of great bio-diversity.

Interesting Species: Black-breasted Thrush, Collared Falconet, Ibisbill, Long-billed Plover, Giant, Rufous-necked & Wreathed Hornbills, Ruddy Kingfisher, White-winged Wood Duck, Wallcreeper, Kalij Pheasant, Green Cochoa, King Vulture, Pallas’s Fish Eagle etc.

Day 12: Nameri NP: Trek:

Full day at Nameri National Park.

Day 13: Nameri NP –Kaziranga NP (03 hrs):

Bull Buffalo at KazirangaTransfer to Kaziranga National Park. On arrival we check in at hotel Wild Grass Resort/Bonhabi Resort/Aranya Lodge and have lunch. Later, we go out birding on the road outside Panbari reserve and also in tea gardens.

Home to the Great Indian one horned rhinoceros, Kaziranga National Park is one of the best parks in the world. With an area of 860 sq.km (after recent additions) of low lying grasslands, shallow water bodies & woodlands this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Assam. Kaziranga is excellent for mammal viewing. The park recently celebrated 100 years of its protected area status.

Kaziranga was brought under the Project Tiger recently. There are 86 Royal Bengal Tigers as per 2000 Census. Kaziranga has 70% of the world population of Eastern Swamp Deer and Asiatic Water Buffalos. Out of 2006 rhinoceros found in Assam 1855 could be found in Kaziranga as per 2006 Census.

Till now 490 species of birds(25 of them globally threatened) have been recorded at Kaziranga so far & an ardent birder is likely to find more. Kaziranga is the most visited birding area in NE India & for a birder it has been a memorable experience where one comes across innumerable species within a few hours of birding.

Interesting species: Bengal Florican, Swamp Francolin, White-bellied Heron, Black-necked Stork, Pallas’s & Grey-headed Fish Eagles, Pied Harrier, Spot-winged Starling, Chestnut-capped Babbler, Slender-billed Babbler, Streak-throated, Pale-headed and Himalayan Flameback woodpeckers, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Black-crested Bulbul, Abbott’s and Puff-throated Babblers, Pale-chinned Flycatcher, Oriental and Great Hornbills, Banded Bay and Drongo Cuckoos, Grey Peacock Pheasant, Kalij Pheasant, Pale-capped Pigeon, Silver-breasted Broadbill, Golden-crested Myna, White-hooded Babbler, Lesser Shortwing, Black-breasted Thrush, Blyth’s Pipits, Blue-tailed Bee-eater, Ashy Woodswallow, Common Green Magpie, Thick-billed Warbler, Greater Necklaced and Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, White-Cheeked Partridge, Blue-naped Pitta etc.

ASSAM: ORANG NATIONAL PARK

Popularly known as mini Kaziranga, Orange National Park covers 72-sq-kms only and is located towards the north bank of Brahamaputra. This park is 150-km from Guwahati and 31-km from Tezpur. From Tezpur by bus on Tezpur-Guwahati route at 45-km west is Orange Chariali and from their 18-km towards the south is Orange wildlife sanctuary. On October 1st, 1992 Orange Wildlife Sanctuary was renamed as Rajib (Rajiv) Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary.

Location: 31-km From Tezpur, AssamFamous As: Mini KazirangaMain Attraction: One-Horned Rhinos, Elephants, Leopards & Migratory BirdsBest Time To Visit: November To March

Flora & Fauna:The Orange Wildlife Sanctuary area is having rich forestry of Sal, Teak, Simul, and Eucalyptus trees with wild beasts such as One-horned Rhino, Elephants, Leopards, Sambhars, Deer’s, etc. During winter birds from far off places come here to nestle. Milky white Pelicans from America also migrate over here.

HOW TO GET THERE:Rail: The nearest railhead is Salon & Rangapara. The park has only a small rest house so it is better to stay at Tezpur and visit this park.Road: 2 buses from Orange Chariali, one at morning and the other at evening ply regularly for Orange. Visiting Orange by bus requires staying for a night at Orange

WHERE TO STAY:Night stay at the 2 forest bungalows of Orange, without electricity & modern amenities are nothing but a thrilling experience. At the entrance gate, the Silbari forest bungalow is simply excellent. Another one is 5-km interior of the forest called Sat Simul bungalow. Walking is not allowed in the interior forest, so use jeep to explore the forest surround.

ORANG NATIONAL PARK

Orang Sanctuary, Also termed as a miniature Kaziranga, is located near Silbori, and on the north bank of river Brahmaputra. It covers an area of 78 sq. km.Attractions

Animals:

One horned Rhinoceros, Royal Bengal Tiger, Barking Deer, Elephant, Leopard, Sambar and Hogdeer, Pangolin, Civet Cat & Otter.

Birds:

Both migratory and local birds. viz. Palican, Green Pigeon, Bengal Florican, Cormorant, Greylag Goose, Large Whistling Teal, Great Adjutant Stork, King Vulture.

How to Reach

Orang is at a distance of 140 kms. from Guwahati, 32 kms. from Tezpur and 68 kms. from Mangaldai, the district HQ by road. It would take One and half hour to reach from Mangaldai. The nearest railhead is Rongapara and the nearest airport is Saloni (Tezpur).Public buses & rental cars are available from Guwahati, the State Capital or Mangaldai.Accommodation

There are two(2) Inspection Bunglows inside the park. One is at Silbori and the other at Satsimlu inside the forest. One Tourist Lodge is coming up at Nalbari (Tourist Department).

In addition, there is a Government Tourist Lodge, a Circuit House and other private hotels of moderate rates at Tezpur. Also there are hotels and lodges in Mangaldai and Rowta. Useful Addresses

DFO, Western Assam Wildlife Division, Tezpur (for accommodation at IB).

Deputy Director, Tourism, Govt. of Assam, Tezpur (for accommodation at Govt. CH)

Range Officer, Orang Wildlife Sanctuary, Orang, P.O. Silbori (Pin-784114) Darrang (for visit).

ASSAM: ORANG NATIONAL PARK

Introduction

Situated in the District of Sonitpur, the Nameri is the third National Park of Assam. The Pakhui (Pakke) Sanctuary of Arunachal Pradesh adjoins the Park on its North-Eastern point. The area is criss-crossed by the river Jia- Bhoroli and its tributaries namely the Diji, Dinai, Doigurung, Nameri, Dikorai, Kharietc. A few jheels (during the rainy seasons) also dot the area. The Jia - Bhoroli river and the tributaries display devilish look when the incessant downpour in the upper reaches during the rainy season make it swell. The in-accessibility and continuity with neibouring forest areas has helped the wildlife of Nameri to flourish. There is a good prey -base in the form of -Sambar,Barking deer, Hog Deer, Wild Boar and gauri. About 3000 domestic cattle also form part of this prey base for Tiger and Leopards.The inaccessibility and continuity with the neibouring forest areas have helped the wildlife of Nameri to flourish. There is a good prey base in the form of Sambar, Barking deer, Hog Deer, Wild Boar and Gaur. About 3000 domestic cattle also form part of this prey base for Tiger and Leopards.Nameri and the adjoining forest areas, declared reserved for a considerable time, also qualify to be an Elephant Reserve. The Elephant population estimated in 1997 was 225.Nameri and Sonai-Rupai are only Protected Areas in the North Bank of the Brahmaputra in the Civil District of Sonitpur, Lakhimpur and Dhemaji.

Legal StatusReserved Forest declared on 17-10-1878Nameri Sanctuary (137 sq. km.) on 18-09-1985Provisional Notification of National Park (212 sq.km. ) on 27.02.97Final Notification of National Park (200 sq. km.) on 09.09.1998 in Assam Gazette.

Area of the Tiger ReserveCore Area- (Nameri National Park) = 200 sq. kmPart of Naduar Reserve Forests Tezpur Sub Divisionupto Ghiladhari River = 80 sq. km

Buffer Area - Part of Balipara Reserve Forests Area in betweenJia-Bhoroli River and Rangapara - BhalukpungRailway line = 64 sq.mTotal Area = 344 sq. Km.

Forest Types and CompositionAssam Valley Tropical Evergreen Forests - IR/C 2b Mesua Sub type.Assam Alluvial Plains semi Evergreen Forests- 2B/C I. A.Phoebe- Anoora associationSub Himalayan light Alluvial Semi- Evergreen Forests 2B/I.S.IMekahi Sub Type.

Eastern Alluvial Secondary Semi Evergreen Forests- 2B/2.S.Cane Brakes- 2B/E.I.Wet Bamboo Brakes 2B/K.2.Northern Secondary Moist Mixed, Deciduous Forests - 3C/ 2.S.I.Low Alluvial savanna Wood Land- 3/ I.S.I.Eastern Hollock Forests -3/I.S.2b.4.D/SSI Eastern Seasonal Swamp Forests.Eastern Dillenia Swamp Forests- 4D / SS Dillenia Altingia Association.Eastern wet Alluvial Grass land- 4.D / 2.5.2.

Habitat- Flora FaunaThe habitat of Nameri is made up of tropical evergreen, Semi-evergreen, moist deciduous forests with cane and bamboo brakes and narrow strips of open grassland along rivers. Grassland comprise of less than 10% of the total area of the park while the semi-evergreen and moist deciduous species dominate the area. Some notable species are Gamari, Titachopa, Amari, Bogipoma, Ajar, Urium poma, Bhelou, Agaru, Rudraksha, Bonjolokia, Hatipolia akhakan, ahollock, Nahor, Siya Nahar, Simul, Bonsum etc. Orchoids include Dendrobium, Cymbidium, Ladies Sleeper etc. Tree Fern,Lianas, creepers are some of the specialties of this forests.The most prized and most significant finding is the White Winged Wood Duck which has a flourishing population in Nameri confirmed officially in 1995. Till now 315 avian species have been recorded in the Park.

Few notable among them are:- (Mammals) More than 30 species: Tiger, Leopard, Black Panther, Clouded Leopard, Lesse Cats, Sloth Bear, Himalayan Black Bear, Elephant, Indian Bison, Dhole, Sambar, Barking Deer, Dog Deer, Fox, Hispid Hare, Indian Hare, Capped Langur, Slow Loris, Assamese Macaque, Rhesus Macaque, Himalayan yellow Throated Martin, Malayan giant Squirrel, Flying Squirrel, Wild Pig etc.

(Bird)315 Sps.: White winged wood duck, Great Pied Hornbill, Wreathed Hornbill, Rufous Necked Hornbill, Black Stork, Ibis Bill, Large Whistling Teal, Common Mergernser, King Vulture, Long Billed Ring Plover, Khallej Pheasant, Hill Myna , Pin tailed green Pigeon, Himalayan pied Kingfisher, Three Toed kingfisher, Fairly Blue Bird Etc.

Reptiles: King cobra, cobra, Pit Viper, Russels Viper, Banded Krait, Python, Rat Snake, Assam Roof Turtle, Malayan Box Turtle, Keeled Box turtle, Asian Leaf Turtle, Narrow Headed soft Shelled Turtle, Indian soft Shelled Turtle. Fishes Golden Mahseer, Shaort gilled Mahseer, Silghoria. Number of tiger as per latest count (2002 count): 26

ConstrainsThere are as many as 25 Reserved Forests in these three districts where departmental logging is allowed. Habital shrinkag due to encroachment has put immense pressure on tiger population to move and seeka safer place. Hence there are local reports that the tiger concentration in Nameri

has increased in the past few years. As a result o tiger population, Nameri is in need of a better conservation and protection measures.

The number of revenue villages in the core area: NilThe number of revenue villages in the core area: NilArea covered by the villages: NilHuman Population : 1000 nos. of Taungya villagers. They are occupying 10 sq. km of periphery of Nameri National Park. It is under the Process of shifting them outside the National Park.Cattle Population 3000 nos they are under the process of rehabilitation.

ORANG

Wildlife enthusiasts who find it difficult to visit Kaziranga to get a glimpse of their favourite one-horned Indian rhino, Orang, no doubt is the next best option to see one. The access to Orang National Park is quick and easy except the last 12 km on the bumpy country road. Orang National Park is 140 km from Guwahati. Situated on the north bank of the Brahmaputra River, Orang National Park covers an area of 78.8 sq. km and falls in the Udalguri district of Assam.Deer at Orang

The park is also known as the Mini Kaziranga and is famous for its natural scenic beauty that captivates the tourists from all over the world. The Orang National Park was established as a sanctuary in 1985 and declared a National Park as recently as in 1999. Rhino is the main attraction in the Orang National Park besides other animals.

The terrain of Orang National Park is similar to Kaziranga – swampy grassland with landlocked and slightly higher woodlands that stretch away from the river. It slopes gently north to south and is fringed by the Dhunseri and Pasnoi rivers to its west and east. All the streams that meander through the park drain into the Brahmaputra in the south. The park has a typical subtropical monsoon climate. The park has channels and islands of the Brahmaputra on the southern and eastern boundaries.Watching the Rhino & Other AnimalsPark Timings &Best Time to Visit

Park Timings:Early mornings and early eveningsBest Time to Visit:The park ideally can be visited from November to April, however for best wildlife sightings visit between February and March.

ContactsDFO, Wildlife DivisionMangaldai – 781008Ph: 0361 - 2517064

Rang Officer, OrangPh: 03712- 282379

Rhinos are the star attraction here and you many find them grazing lazily in the open fields of Orang National Park. You can head to the run down Satsimulu Inspection Bungalow that

overlooks the large, open, swampy grassland. This place offers uninterrupted views of the terrain and you may see a number of wild animals from here.Birds at Orang Wildlife Sanctuary

Besides, the one-horned rhinoceros, Orang National Park is home to elephants, leopard, sambar, barking deer, tiger, and a number of other animals. The park also offers a host of birding opportunities to bird lovers. Orang National Park abounds in avian species. It is the most important habitat of the Bengal florican. Other birds you may spot in Orang National Park include lesser adjutant, spot-billed pelican, greater adjutant stork, black-necked stork, rudy shelduck, Wooly-necked stork, gadwall, mallard, pintail and a number of others including forest and grassland birds.

Places to seeElephant Rides

Elephant safari at OrangElephant safari is perhaps the best way to explore Orang National Park, though jeeps are allowed inside the park. Elephant safari allows you to observe the wildlife from close quarters. Safari timings are early morning and early evenings

A trip to Orang would specifically be for wildlife as there is not much to explore around. However, on route to Orang you may visit Madan Kamdev Temple ruins, also known as the Khajuraho of Kamrup. These ruins are located about 35 km from Guwahati. You can take a number of excursions from here. The silk weaving village called Sualkuchi, the Pua-Mecca Mosque in Hajo and Hayagriba Madhav Temple are other place to see around Orang National Park.

Places to stay in Orang National ParkOrang offers very basic accommodation. There are two Inspection Bungalows of forest department inside the park. One is at Silbori and the other at Satsimlu inside the forest. One Tourist Lodge is coming up at Nalbari (Tourist Department). Tezpur can be a good base for wildlife viewing in Orang National Park. Hotels in Orang National Park

Reaching Orang National Park

By Air: Guwahati, 140 km away is well connected by Indian and other private airlines.

By Rail: Guwahati is well connected the rail network.

By Road: Orang can be approached from NH 52 through gravel roads running from Orang town and Dhansirimukh. It is about 65 km from Tezpur. The sanctuary is 15 km off the national highway near Orang town (Dhansirimukh).

/////////Some Important Destinations near TawangBomdila is 185 km from Tawang, which is also a major link between Tawnag and other parts of India. Dirang is at a distance of 143 km from Tawang. Jang is just 42 km away. Lumla is 45 km away. The distance between Tawang & Zemithang is 93 km. Tawang is also connected to Tezpur (Assam) about 345 km from Tawang. Bhalukpong is 285 km from Tawang

LAKES

P.T.TSO Lake( Pankang Teng Tso): -It is a fetching heaven for tourist only 17 KM away from maddening crowd of township. It is a beautiful natural site and provide tourist a lucky chance for deep communion with nature.

SANGETSER LAKE JO-NGA-TSEIR): -It is a lake where observation of nature's beauty, serenity and sanctity gets a peaceful rest. Visiting this place, tourist can never control themselves in showing Hula-Hula as so beautiful appearance of nature is here. It is only 42 KM away from Tawang. The lake emerged during 1950 earthquake.

BANGGACHANG LAKE: -It is an anecdotal lake, very attractive for such tourist who would like to travel 101 KM from the township. Many mystical stories, like seeing Gompa, candle light. Jewels and Coins and many other mysterious and nerve stimulating sites are woven around it. It has interior location and go to in very verge of it is challenging for tourist. It invites young and enthusiastic tourist to experience it personally in depth.

PEAKS

SELA PEAK: -In search of the hidden paradise of Tawang, the Peak of Sela naturally come in the way as a gigantic mountain of mountains. It entices visitors' keen to imagine what would be the demographically shape and colour of Tawang on the other side of the peak. The Sela Pass is the gateway of Tawang district. It is at a height of 13714 ft. and proper Tawang main town is 92 km away from Sela. There are two beautiful lakes at Sela which have been always alluring the visitors for memorable snapshots.

GORICHEN PEAK: -It is the highest peak in Tawang and is 22500 ft. in height. The snow caped ,sky touching peak of Gorichen is 164 KM away from Tawang township. It has been always a challenging game of stamina for mountaineers Zeal and determination. Many back packers attempted for successful climbing of its steeply and dizzy heights, but a few could enjoy success.

GESHILA PEAK: -This beautiful peak is the nearest one to Tawang township at a distance of 25 KM via a place called Khrimu. At the top of this peak one can enjoy a deep solitude. The top of gesela peak offers a unique angle for over viewing the whole

HOTSPRINGS THINGBU HOT SPRING: -

                           This hot spring is situated 68 km away from Tawang township. It can be approached from Jang on foot journey or by a pony ride. From time immemorial this hot spring has been of utmost use to the local population. This hot spring is known for its medical and therapeutic

value.

TSACHU HOT SPRING: -                          A part from hot spring,this site is also suitable for hard trekking. The route of

Tsachu has very attractive land scape and beautiful site. The place can be approached from Tawang after travelling 4 hours by light vehicle and further 4 hours by foot march.

NUNNERIES

View of Nuns & Nunneries

SINGSUR ANI GOMPA: -This Gompa is one beautiful nunneries of Tawang district. It is situated at a distance of around 28 Kms

west from the Tawang HQ towards the Geshila road . It houses around 30(thirty) Anis (Nuns). The new Singsur anie Gompa was built by the previous Rev. Gonpatse

Rimpoche in 1960. The old Singsur ani gonpa is also in existence and is situated in the

midst of the shaa (huts) of the anies. It has a beautiful land scape around it. It is worth

visiting it as it is not far away from main road. It is just above Lhou village.

GYANGONG ANI GOMPA: -Gyangong Ani Gonpa is a beautiful Nunnery, having about 50 Bhuddist

Nuns, located on top of a beautiful hillock about five km away in the north of Tawang founded by Mera Lam Lodre Gyamtso and was subsequently offered by him

to his elder sisiter. Thus the Gyangong Ani gonpa came into existence.

          This Ani Gonpa is under the administration of Tawang Monastery. Location of nunnery and the

customs being followed by nuns remind visitors of the period of Maurya Dynasty, when the Buddhism was preached in remote hilly areas under the shade of

green trees.           As this ani gonpa is under the administration of

Tawang monastery, the nuns of this monastery get provision from the Tawang monastery. But the scale of ration is very low i.e. about 10 containers ( about 250 gms each) of foodgrains per month or about two

and half kg of food grains per month.

BRAMA DUNG CHUNG ANI GOMPA: -Tawang district has a long

tradition of nunneries called "Ani Gonpas", which are the abode of nuns. Unlike the

monks (Lamas), the girls become nuns and join the nunnery on their own and there is no social pressure or tradition making the

practice compulsory.Brama dung chung Ani gonpa (nunnery) is the oldest Ani Gompa

(Nunnery) in Tawang District . It is situated in the lap of a far off mountain laced with

natural scenery. It is located at a distance of 9 Kms. from the main town. This nunnery

was constructed by a Lama named Karchen Yeshi Gelek from Tsang province of Tibet in the year 1595 A.D. Presently there are forty

five (Anis) nuns in this Monastery. Being very poor, the inhabitants of

Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa depend on begging for sustaining themselves.

TAWANG TREKKING AND FOOD

Tawang is a much undiscovered Trekkers paradise, offering breath taking views, fresh mountain air, chill weather, and challenging or leisurely treks.

For a rigorous trek ( classified hard), take the Jang - Thingbu - Mago - Goi ichen Base Camp - Mago (Back) - Luguthang - Sena Chakra - RA-I route.

The softer trekking routes include the Mukto - Gongkhar - Gyamdong - Khet - Kharung - Bongleng - Kungba - Namsring - Kharteng - Lumla route, and the Tawang Gonpa - Gyangong Ani Gonpa - Bhramadongchung Ani Gonpa - Tawang routes.

You can also trek along the Namet Village - Zarmang Ani Gonpa - Khromten Gonpa - Geshila - Klimta - Bomla - Y. Junction - Tawang route, which takes you close to the Chinese border outpost at Bomla.

Trekkers are advised to come fully attired and prepared for the worst.

Take a walk around the charming town.

Pray at the 400 year old Tawang Gompa. Turn the prayer wheels dotted outside small gompas. Meet and chat with the friendly Lama monks. Take excursions around town to visit beautiful glacier lakes and smaller gompas with big histories.

Chat with friendly and beautiful locals.

Take a nap on a hillock if its sunny, be prepared to be awoken by a grazing Yak.

[edit][add listing] BuyTawang has a good range of tourist souvenir shops which sell Budhdhist prayer wheels in colourful wood, chadars (wrap skirts worn by local women), beautiful bags, shawls, brassware, Budhdha statues. Look for shops in Old Market as well as Tibetan settlement.

[edit][add listing] EatTibetean delicacies like Thupka , momos or simple and delicious Paratha- Sabzi eaten hot from the roadside shacks on cold misty days are a treat !! Most restaurants in Tawang serve these. A small shack called Annapurna serves delicious alu ( potato) chips.

The traditional Monpa cuisine use a generous amount of chillies and fermented cheese which has a strong flavour and is not for the faint hearted.

Some traditional Arunachal dishes are, the famous Momo, widely eaten in the north east and other Himalayan regions. The Momo is made by stuffing minced Pork and Onions into a dough and then steamed in a three layer steamer, or fried.

The Thukpa is a soup filled with noodles, minced meat, and vegetables, also known as Der Thuk. Ashum Thukpa is made of Maize, beans and meat.

Zan is the staple dish of the Monpa tribes. It is usually made of Millet flour. It is usually had with vegetables or meat to which is added fermented cheese, soya bean or other herbs.

Khura is a pancake, had with tea.

Gyapa Khazi is a kind of Pulao made of rice, fermented cheese, small dried fish or shrimp, chillies ginger and other spices.

Like all places of travel, some of the best food is found at the small non descript, sometime not very hygenic, eateries, that serve authentic dishes at very affordable prices. They are sure to be authentic food of the region as they are most frequented by locals.

Tawang Sightseeing

Tawang Monastery (Gonpa)Golden Namgyal Lhatse commonly referred to as Tawang Monastery is one of the largest lamaseries of Mahayana sects and the second oldest Monastery in the world after Lhasa. This Monastery was founded by a monk Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso, a contemporary of His Holiness Fifth Dalai Lama in 1681 AD. The monastery complex comprises of more than 65 residential buildings meant for monks. The Monastery also houses the establishment of the Head Priest, living chambers of the Lamas, an ancient library and antique museum. The most important building of the monastery is the main assembly hall/ temple called Duk-hang. It houses the colossal gilded statue of Lord Buddha. Apart from this are many statues of God and Goddesses preserved for offering prayers. Thangkas and other art facts antique are well protected. The Monastery is housed with

more than 500 monks. It has also a centre of Buddhist Cultural Studies where young monks are provided basic education besides traditional monastic education. Now a day, Tawang Monastery is also light up with tiny bulbs emitting its perfect shape and size for the viewers at night.Urgelling GonpaThis Gonpa is believed to have been in existence since 14th century. It was one of the first three monasteries built by Urgen Sangpo, the youngest brother of Terton Pempalingpa, the famous Treasure-Revealer. Dating more than 550 years ago, the monastery is the birth place of Tsangyang Tashi, His Holiness the 6th Dalai Lama. He was the son of Lama Tashi Teiizin of Urgelling village a descendent of Terton Pempalingpa. This Gonpa is about 5 King; away from Tawang township.

NunneryTawang has many aged old traditional Buddhist Nunneries called Ani Gonpa, In fact, there is no any hard and fast regulation in the society compelling any girl child to become a nun but they join nun hood at their own wishes.

Gyangong Ani Gonpa (Buddhist Nunnery)Jangchub Choeling commonly referred to as Gyangong Ani Gonpa is a Nunnery beautifully perched on the hillock which is about 5 Kms from Tawang township founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso and is believed to have subsequently handed over to his elder sister. One can have a beautiful sight of this nunnery from Tawang Monastery as well. Anybody wishes to visit Gyangong Ani Gonpa needs to trek about half an hour from Tawang Monastery. This Nunnery houses more than 50 nuns.

Brahrna-dung-chung Ani GonpaGaden Thekchen Choeling, popularly known as Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa is one of the oldest nunneries in Tawang district located at about 8 Kms from Tawang township. It was commissioned by Lama Karchen Yeshi Gelek in 1816 AD. Presently the Gonpa is housed with 40 Anis (Nuns). Any visitors wanted to contribute (cash or kind) towards the welfare of Gonpa is accepted with thanks.

Singsur Ani GonpaThis Ani Gonpa is at 28 Kms distance from Tawang township towards Ghesila mountain range. There are many other Ani Gonpa (Nunneries) viz. Zyumay Ani Gonpa and Ngawang Ani Gonpa in Tawang district

Taktsang GonpaTaktsang Gonpa is located at the distance of 45 Kms from Tawang township, is believed to have consecrated by the visit of Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century AD. This Monastery is perched on the ridge of the hillock surrounded by a dense coniferous forest and lofty mountains. Visitors can also conduct a visit (Tirth yatra) round about the places nearby Taktsang Gonpa where Guru Padmasambhava had meditated. It is place where one can really feel the ecstasy of being alone.

Gorsam ChortenThis is situated 90 Kms from Tawang town. This Stupa is the largest Stupa of the area. This Gorsam Chorten is believed to have constructed in the early part of 12* century by Lama Pradhar, Monpa monk.

BangaJang LakeNature has so lavishly blessed the entire Banga Jang range that one cannot help resist themselves from exclaiming the fabulous design of the nature. Every year Pilgrims Tour (Tirth Yatra) round about the Banga Jang range to acquire the heavenly bliss and Sanctity. A numinous story has a big hold of the area. Apart from Banga Jang lake, there are number of lakes in the area. ' Deities are believed to have a strong control over every lake. Many Pilgrims had visited the place but only few probably pure hearted pilgrims had an experience of witnessing the deities in lake in different images.

Hot springsTawang is endowed with many hot water springs which are known for their medicinal value. All these hot water springs have high sulpher content which cures many skin ailments.

Tsachu hotThe water spring can be reached traveling by light motor vehicle for two hours from Tawang up to Sarong Gonpa and from there one has to trek on foot for another three hours. Apart from this, there is many other Hot spring available in Tawang district viz. Kitpi Hot Spring, Thingbu Hot Spring, Greng-khar Hot spring etc.

ccommodation facilities at different locations TAWANG (STD Code: 03794)PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION1. TAWANG INN (Contact No. 224096)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe Suite 01 (Double bedded) Rs. 1600/- -Do-Suite 04 (Double bedded) Rs. 1500/- -Do-

Deluxe 02 (Double bedded) Rs. 1000/- -Do-Semi Deluxe 07 (Double bedded) Rs. 800/- -Do-

Other facilities: Restaurant attached 2. TOURIST HUT (Contact No. 222738)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 03 Rs. 500/- TV, Geyser, Heater3. HOTEL NEFA (Contact No. 222419)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 500/- TV, Geyser,

BhukhariEconomy rooms 04 (Four bedded)

Common Bath Rs. 350/- BhukhariOther facilities: Restaurant attached

4. HOTEL SAMDUPLING (Contact No. 224213)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 06 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 750/- TV, Geyser, Heater

Semi Deluxe 07 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser, Heater

Economy rooms 01 (Four bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached 5. HOTEL DOLMA (Contact No. 224131 / 223271)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 02 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 700/-

Semi Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 600/-

Economy rooms 02 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 400/-

Dormitory 01 (Four bedded)Common Bath

Rs. 150 per bed

Other facilities: Restaurant attached 6. HOTEL BUDDHA (Contact No. 222954)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Super Deluxe 02 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs.825/- TV, Geyser, Heater

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 715/-

Classic 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 605/-Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Conference Hall

7. MONYUL LODGE (Contact No. 222196)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 02 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 02 (Triple bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 01 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/-

Other facilities: Restaurant attached8. HOTEL ANAPURNA (Contact No. Nil)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 03 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 02 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser

Dormitory 01 (Triple bedded)Attached Bath

Rs. 150 per bed TV

Other facilities: Restaurant attached9. HOTEL GOURICHEN (Contact No. 224151l)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe 06 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser

Semi Deluxe 06 (Double bedded) Rs.450/- GeyserOther facilities: Restaurant attached

10. HOTEL ALPINE (Contact No. 222515)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Super Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 350/- TV, Geyser

Semi Deluxe 01 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 300/- TV, Geyser

Dormitory 01 (Triple bedded)Common Bath Rs. 300/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached11. HOTEL DUNGPHU (Contact No. 223765)

Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesSuper Deluxe 01 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 900/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 01 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 02 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand12. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Super Deluxe 03 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 03 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand13. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Deluxe/Semi Deluxe 12 rooms - -

14. HOTEL GANGCHIN(Contact No. 224243)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesEconomy rooms 01 (Double bedded)

Common Bath Rs.600/- TV, Heater

Economy rooms 07 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 400/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attachedPAYING GUEST ACCOMMODATIONSl. No. Paying Guest Accommodation No. of rooms01 Kelsang Paying Guest Accommodation

(PGA) 03 rooms 02 Snowland PGA 04rooms 03 Seven Sisters PGA (Lemberdung) 03 rooms 04 Tribal Discoveries PGA 02rooms

GOVERNMENT ACCOMMODATIONTOURIST LODGE (Contact No. 03794 - 222359 (O) 223019 (Fax) 222567 (R)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

VIP Suite 02 (Five bedded) Rs. 700/- per room TV, Geyser, Heater

Deluxe 03 (Two bedded) Rs. 400/- per room TV, Geyser, Heater

Semi Deluxe 04 (Triple bedded) Rs. 300/- per room Geyser, Heater

Economy rooms 10 (Double bedded) Rs. 200/- per room Geyser, Heater

BHALUKPONG (STD Code: 03782)

Sl. No. Name of Hotel &

Phone Number

Rooms

DormitorySingle Double

1 Circuit house/IB (PWD)234424   6  

2 Guest House (IFCD)234424   2  

3 Forest Guest House 234478   4  

BOMDILA (STD Code: 03782)

Sl. No. Name of Hotel &

Phone Number

Rooms

DormitorySingle Double

1 Tourist lodge222049   8 1 room @ Rs. 20/- per bed.

2 Circuit House222021   7  

3 Hotel Shipyang Pong222286 10 12 @ Rs. 100/- per bed

4 Hotel Dawa222360   5  

5 Hotel Bomdila222416 1 6  

6 Hotel Pasang222627 1 5  

7 Hotel Potola222248 1 4  

8 LA Hotel222097/22416 4 6  

9 Sangrilla Hotel222226   5  

DIRANG (STD Code: 03780)

Sl. No. Name of Hotel &

Phone Number

Rooms

DormitorySingle Double

1 Tourist Lodge222221/222225   4  

2 Hotel Pemaling222215   4  

3 IB (P.W.D)222221   4  

Shorter route to Tawang

Press Trust Of India / Kolkata/ Itanagar March 10, 2006

With the inauguration of a bridge on the Lumla-Dudunghar road and completion of a new road, the distance between Guwahati and Tawang town, a popular tourist spot in Arunachal Pradesh, through Bhutan, has been reduced by 170 km.  The 52-metre long Namtsering bridge on Nyamjangchu river at Lumla was inaugurated by chief

minister Gegong Apang.  It removed a major hurdle in the way of shortening the distance between the two places.  A stretch of 11km of the new road is yet to be constructed.  It will reduce the distance between Guwahati and Tawang by 170km, according to G Rimpoche, chairman of the advisory council for tourism of Arunachal Pradesh.  On completion of the new road, tourists will be able to come to Tawang without having to make the journey through Sela pass, he said.  Rimpoche represents Lumla in the assembly.  A former tourism minister, he said work on construction of the 11km stretch is expected to be taken up in the next financial year.  Once it is completed and modalities are framed with the Bhutan government, tourists will be able to come to Tawang by the new road from Guwahati via Rangia-Samg ub-Zongkher through Bhutan.  

Western Arunachal Pradesh

Dirang - Tawang 

 by     Ramana   Athreya

        Page content :              Birding Areas                  Boarding & Lodging                Contact Addresses              Entry Permits                General Information              Link to landscape images               Map of the area              Transport                                Miscellaneous                   the newly described Arunachal Macaque

General Information

Area  :   This sprawling region spread over 2 districts is not part of any protected area  Altitude  : 1500-4300+ m (all of it accessible by road)  Lat-Long  :  27.5N  92.1E, W. Kameng & Tawang districts, Arunachal Pradesh   See  mapNodal Locations :  Dirang (W. Kameng) and Jang (Tawang)Vegetation Type  :  dry inner valleys, cultivation, temperate broad-leaved and conifer forests, scrub, alpine meadows.Best Season - Birds  :  April-June & October-December, depending on snowfallBest Season - butterflies  :  monsoon (May - September)Speciality Birds  :  Monal pheasant, blood pheasant, Satyr and Temminck's tragopans, black-necked crane, long-billed plover, ward's trogon, alpine accentor, eyebrowed thrush, white-throated redstart, slender-billed scimitar-babbler, brown-throated tit-babbler/fulvetta, coal tit, rufous-bellied tit, rufous-fronted tit, eurasian treecreeper, fire-tailed sunbird, beavan's bullfinch, brown bullfinch, white-winged grosbeak, red-billed chough.

(top)

Birding Areas

3-5 days is required to cover this vast area which has some really special birds. Doing this area by public transport, other than Sela Pass, is not possible.

Dirang (W. Kameng)Sangti Valley  :  (1600m). Dry inner valley with pine stands and cultivation. The only black-necked crane wintering area in India (1-10 birds in late November-February only)Mandala - Sela ridge road  :  (2200-3700m). Temperate broad-leaved forest and scrub, extensive conifer stands and summer pastures.

Sela Ridge  :  3500-4500m. Demarcates the W. Kameng - Tawang district border. Treeline vegetation (conifers, birch and rhododendron, dwarf scrub) and alpine meadows.  The highway itself has decent roadside birding between Baisakhi (8 km beyond Sengay)  and Sela Pass and also further beyond on the Jang side. A road goes off from the Pass to Chabre La and then to B.J.Gompa. This passes through extensive alpine meadows and tree-line vegetation.

Jang (Tawang)Jang - B.J.Gompa road :  2800-4300m. Temperate bamboo, broad-leaved and fir forests; alpine meadows. The entire road is open during summer; snow conditions determine access rest of the year, when it gets quite chancy above 3500m.Jang - Rama Spur road : 2800-3800+m. Temperate bamboo, fir and rhododendron forests with clearings. The road begins to descend beyond the highest point at 3800m. But one can climb higher on foot.

(top)

Boarding & Lodging

Dirang  (1625m, Grade 3)  :  couple of decent hotels (doubles at Rs. 500-1500) and several other basic ones and restaurants.Sengey  (3000m, Grade 4) :  (3000m ) : PWD IB (2-4 people). CCC!Sangti  :  (1600m,  Grade 5) : Sheep breeding centre IB (?). Camping by river.Jang  :  (2200m - Grade 3) : A PWD IB (8 people). CCC!B.J.Gompa  :  (4200m? - Grade 5) : a buddhist monastery, opens during summer. It is in the alpine zone and may be a good place for exploring the area, if accommodation is available there.See   town grade  and   accommodation  descriptions

(top)

Contact

As of now there is no local contact person in Dirang or Jang. Mr. Indi Glow of Tenga can help with making the arrangements.More Information on the area  :   Ramana Athreya email  (rathreya at ncra . tifr . res . in)Bird Tours  :   Kaati Tours  & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)          Mr. Glow   :   Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph  91-3782-273359       Kaati Tours   :     Ph  +91-2132-245770   email    (kaati_tours at vsnl . net)

(top)

Entry Permits

Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked on entry at Bhalukpong.  The Circle Officers at Tenga/Singchung/Bhalukpong/Bomdila/Dirang/Jang  can issue fresh permits to extend the stay (for Indians only). No other permits are required. However, this area has a very heavy army presence; any group of birders with serious optics should take the time to inform the local army officials of their presence especially if they

plan to wander far from the highway - this is also a good safety precaution in case unseasonal snowfall leaves the party stranded far from habitation.

(top)

Transport 

This is a region of early starts and long commutes with Dirang and Bomdila  being the only place for those who require very comfortable sleeping quarters. Bomdila, Dirang, Sela and Jang lie on the Tezpur-Tawang highway and are served by several daily buses and shared taxis. But the Sela Pass is the only area which can be accessed solely by public transport. All other localities are off the highway and may not have any traffic for days on end. So a reliable jeep and good weather are essential for visiting these places. Diesel vehicles must be capable of handling sub-zero conditions. The army is responsible for keeping these roads open and are quite efficient at clearing snow and rocks from the highway but sometimes it can take a day or two in case of heavy snowfall in winter (January - March). It is best not to attempt the side roads after the first winter snow (usually in late December).

The Mandala - ChabriLa road is still not through; construction is going on about 20+ km beyond Mandala.

DistancesDirang - Bomdila  :  42 kmDirang - Sangti  :  10? kmDirang - Mandala  :  28 km, good forest for another 20 km  towards  ChabriLaDirang to  :  Sengay  37 km,  Baisakhi  45 km,  Sela Pass  61 km,Sela to  :  ChabriLa  11 km,  B.J.Gompa  17 km,  Jang 59 km (side road)Sela to  :  Jang  37 km,  Tawang 77 km  (along the highway)Jang -  highest point on Rama Spur road  :  32 kmTypical speeds on these hill roads are 20 kmph, both ascending and descendingSee also  transport in W. Arunachal

(top)

Miscellaneous

(top)

Map of Dirang-Tawang  Areasclick here for  map details  and an  overview of W. Arunachal

LEGEND        By Pass BP Off Turn off <NHx>Bharat Petroleum PP BPCL LC Rail Level CrossingCredit Card CC LTO Turn LEFTCheck Post CP NH National Highway <x>Double Road DR PP Petrol Pump

2-lane Road 2L24H PP 24 hour Petrol Pump

Flyover FO R Road to the Right goes to <Place><x> kmsHindustan Petroleum PP HPCL Rel Reliance PPIndian Oil PP IOC RTO Turn RIGHTLeft Road goes to <Place><x> kms L S Straight Road goes to <Place><x> kms

Place Time KM Cumm km CommentsGuwahati Ganeshguri FO 1134 1 457Guwahati Ganeshguri M&M 0 457Guwahati Ulanbari Hotel Priya Palace 1145 3 460

1150 0 4601207 pm 8 468 R-Kamakhya Temple

Diesel Halt 1210 3 4711225 0 471

Jalukhbari 150 1 472 NH37Guwahati Airport 1243 12 484Mirza 1250 7 491Bijoynagar 1254 4 495Chhaygaon/Gumi 108 14 509Boko 123 19 528Dhupdhara 138 20 548Darkangiri 153 17 565 No PPDudnai 200 pm 12 577Krishnai 214 14 591Parkan 216 2 593 L-Tura 100,Bajingodtla 22,S-Abhaypuri 51Soalmari Tinali 229 14 607 LTO,S-Goalpara 8, PPNaranarayan Setu/River Brahmaputra Bridge 12 619 Pancharatna

3 622 3.6 kms longJogigopa 2 624 PP, WorkshopsKabaitary 1 625 NH31B

LC 250 4 629LC 300 11 640

1 641 LTO,R-???,L-Dhubri 106, Barhi 950North Salamara/Tulingia 1 642

NH31,LTO,S-Rangiya 133,Pathsala 75, Barpeta Rd 61, Rakhaldubi 13,Jalukbari 13, Jalukbari 176

2 644 R-Bongaigaon 1418 662 IOC PP

Chapar 330 6 668400 34 702 PP

Mahamaya 410 9 711 Shakti templePanbari 422 12 723 BSF CampGhauripur 435 12 735

435 1 736 S-DhubriToll 19 755 No ticket

Bridge 459 1 756

Diesel Halt 517 18 774525 0 774

Boxirhat 2 776WEST BENGAL BORDER 2 778Tufanganj 540 pm 10 788Maraganj 12 800 No PPCooch Behar BP 603 9 809 L-Cooch Behar

  809 Round,R-Alipurduar 20,L-Cooch Behar14 823 PP

620 2 825 LTO, S-Uttar Sanapur?Bridge/Last trip broken 5 830Falakata 22 852 R-Madarihat???

2 854 LTO,SH12A,S-Birpara14 868 PP

Drupuguri 720 5 873 SH12A3 876 LTO, NH31

745 15 891 Trucks, DhabasMal bazaar 751 4 895 LTO,R-Alipurduar, Off NH31River Teesta Bridge 803 11 906

6 912 L-Jalpaiguri8 920 PPs

Raninagar BSF 1 9211 922 Motel

Telephone Call Halt 910 pm 26 948 MitchOnTheRoad called915 0 948

Fulbari 0 948 LTO,R-Siliguri 2???0 948

Diesel Halt 920 0 948940 0 948

Toll/Fulbari 940 0 9481005 20 968 LTO,NH31,R-Bagdogara/Siliguri

Islampur 1055 50 1018

Villages of Tawang District [20]Broksher Lumla RohChumba Mago SaktiChuna Meruthang Senge DzongJang Mukto ThingbuJithang Nuranang YumkhangKangkar Nyuri ZemithangLhau Pangchen  

Broksher is located in Tawang District and lies on the high altitude trek route from Jang to Meruthang. It is perched at an altitude of 8500 ft above the sea level and is about 20 km from Jang and around 18 km downhill of Thingbu.

Chumba is located in Tawang District and is east of Tawang. It lies near Arunachal Pradesh-Tibet border.

Chuna is located in Tawang District. It is west of Lap.

Jang is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh and lies on Tawang – Bomdila road. It is situated at altitude of 7000 ft above sea level. Nuranang waterfalls lies nearby. Jang is about 42 km south-east of Tawang.

Jithang is a small village perched at an altitude of 13,372 ft in Tawang District. It falls on the high altitude trek route from Jang to Meruthang. It can be reached after an 11 km climb along a gradual rocky slope from Mago.

Kangkar is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 6 km from Tawang, the district headquarters.

Lhau is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 3 km from Jang.

Lumla is a picturesque village in Tawang District and one would come across it while on the way from Tawang to Zemithang. The road enters Nyamjangchu valley after passing Lumla.

Mago lies at an altitude of 12,500 ft above the sea level in Tawang District. It can be accessed by a 20 km trek from Thingbu. The trek route from Jang to Mago via Thingbu passes through dense studded with glittering waterfalls. Mago is 10 km downhill from Jithang.

Meruthang, at an altitude of 14,800 ft, is the base camp for those venturing for the Gorichen ranges of the Arunachal Himalayas. It can be reached by a 10 km exhaustive trek from Jithang.

Mukto is a small village in Tawang District and lies near the Indo - Bhutan border. It falls in the Mukto – Thingbu taluk and is about 15 km from Lhou Nallah.

Nuranang is a small hilly village in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is situated at an altitude of about 12000 ft above sea level. The village is famous for the Nuranang waterfalls. Nuranang is about 40 km from Tawang and lies on the Sela – Tawang road.

Nyuri is located in Tawang District and is about 4 km from Chuna.

Pangchen is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. Tawang, the district headquarters, is about 15 km away.

Roh, at an altitude of 7800 ft, is located in Tawang District. It is about 10 km from Jang. It falls on the trekking route from Jang to Broksher. Jang is the nearest place with a road link. Bomdila is 140 km from Jang.

Sakti (also spelt - Shakti) is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 15 km from Tawang.

Senge Dzong is located in Tawang District of Arunachal Pradesh. It is about 16 km from Jang.

Thingbu is a charming village on the hills in Tawang District, along the Roh - Jithang trekking trail. The hamlet can be reached by an 18 km trek from Broksher.

Yumkhang is a scenic locale in Tawang District and one would come across it while traveling from Tawang to Zemithang. The place is 85 km north-west of Tawang and about 8 km short of Zemithang.

Zemithang is a Monpa settlement in Tawang District and lies near the Indo – Tibet border. It is located at the head of a picturesque vale, created by the river Namjang Chu flowing in from Tibet. Zemithang lies in the remote and some times isolated north-western most corner of the district, sandwiched between Bhutan and China. Tawang - the district headquarters – is 93 km south-east.

Gorsam Chorten, a 100 ft high stupa that soars over the narrow river like a behemoth, is a stunning sight and hence a tourist hotspot near Zemithang. B T K Waterfalls is a nature's splendor situated nearby. Many more waterfalls can be witnessed on the way from Tawang to Zemithang.

Zemithang has a government rest house which should be booked in advance from Tawang. A few buses operate between Tawang and Zemithang; but hiring a private vehicle would be a better option.

Some Important Destinations near TawangBomdila is 185 km from Tawang, which is also a major link between Tawnag and other parts of India. Dirang is at a distance of 143 km from Tawang. Jang is just 42 km away. Lumla is 45 km away. The distance between Tawang & Zemithang is 93 km. Tawang is also connected to Tezpur (Assam) about 345 km from Tawang. Bhalukpong is 285 km from Tawang

LAKES

P.T.TSO Lake( Pankang Teng Tso): -It is a fetching heaven for tourist only 17 KM away from maddening crowd of township. It is a beautiful natural site and provide tourist a lucky chance for deep communion with nature.

SANGETSER LAKE JO-NGA-TSEIR): -It is a lake where observation of nature's beauty, serenity and sanctity gets a peaceful rest. Visiting this place, tourist can never control themselves in showing Hula-Hula as so beautiful appearance of nature is here. It is only 42 KM away from Tawang. The lake emerged during 1950 earthquake.

BANGGACHANG LAKE: -It is an anecdotal lake, very attractive for such tourist who would like to travel 101 KM from the township. Many mystical stories, like seeing Gompa, candle light. Jewels and Coins and many other mysterious and nerve stimulating sites are woven around it. It has interior location and go to in very verge of it is challenging for tourist. It invites young and enthusiastic tourist to experience it personally in depth.

PEAKSSELA PEAK: -In search of the hidden paradise of Tawang, the Peak of Sela naturally come in the way as a gigantic mountain of mountains. It entices visitors' keen to imagine what would be the demographically shape and colour of Tawang on the other side of the peak. The Sela Pass is the gateway of Tawang district. It is at a height of 13714 ft. and proper Tawang main town is 92 km away from Sela. There are two beautiful lakes at Sela which have been always alluring the visitors for memorable snapshots.

GORICHEN PEAK: -It is the highest peak in Tawang and is 22500 ft. in height. The snow caped ,sky touching peak of Gorichen is 164 KM away from Tawang township. It has been always a challenging game of stamina for mountaineers Zeal and determination. Many back packers attempted for successful climbing of its steeply and dizzy heights, but a few could enjoy success. Located between Tawang and West Kameng districts, Gorichen Massif is the highest peak (22,500 ft) of Arunachal Pradesh. An ice peak, it borders with China. It is often referred to as Sa-Nga Phu, which literally means the kingdom of the deity. Hence, it is considered sacred by Monpa tribe. Gorichen is an ideal base for mountaineering and trekking.

GESHILA PEAK: -This beautiful peak is the nearest one to Tawang township at a distance of 25 KM via a place called Khrimu. At the top of this peak one can enjoy a deep solitude. The top of gesela peak offers a unique angle for over viewing the whole

Kangto Peak lies on the West Kameng District’s border with Tibet. It is a part of the Himalayas and this 7090 m high peak is one of the unconquered peaks in this part. This snow-clad mountain is surrounded by thick forests, which limits the mountaineers.

Takpa Shiri is one of the major peaks of the Kangto Section, a part of the Himalayas. Located at an altitude of 7,047 m in the state of Arunachal Pradesh, it is a holy mountain just north of the Indian border, near the Tibetan village of Migyitun.

HOTSPRINGS

THINGBU HOT SPRING: -                           This hot spring is situated 68 km away from Tawang township. It can be approached from Jang on foot journey or by a pony ride. From time immemorial this hot spring has been of utmost use to the local population. This hot spring is known for its medical and therapeutic value.

TSACHU HOT SPRING: -                          A part from hot spring,this site is also suitable for hard trekking. The route of Tsachu has very attractive land scape and beautiful site. The place can be approached from Tawang after travelling 4 hours by light vehicle and further 4 hours by foot march.

NUNNERIES

View of Nuns & Nunneries

SINGSUR ANI GOMPA: -This Gompa is one beautiful nunneries of Tawang district. It is situated at a distance of around 28 Kms west from the Tawang HQ towards the Geshila road . It houses around 30(thirty) Anis (Nuns). The new Singsur anie Gompa was built by the previous Rev. Gonpatse Rimpoche in 1960. The old Singsur ani gonpa is also in existence and is situated in the midst of the shaa (huts) of the anies. It has a beautiful land scape around it. It is worth visiting it as it is not far away from main road. It is just above Lhou village.

GYANGONG ANI GOMPA: -Gyangong Ani Gonpa is a beautiful Nunnery, having about 50 Bhuddist Nuns, located on top of a beautiful hillock about five km away in the north of Tawang founded by Mera Lam Lodre Gyamtso and was subsequently offered by him to his elder sisiter. Thus the Gyangong Ani gonpa came into existence.          This Ani Gonpa is under the administration of Tawang Monastery. Location of nunnery and the customs being followed by nuns remind visitors of the period of Maurya Dynasty, when the Buddhism was preached in remote hilly areas under the shade of green trees.           As this ani gonpa is under the administration of Tawang monastery, the nuns of this monastery get provision from the Tawang monastery. But the scale of ration is very low i.e. about 10 containers ( about 250 gms each) of foodgrains per month or about two and half kg of food grains per month.

BRAMA DUNG CHUNG ANI GOMPA: -Tawang district has a long tradition of nunneries called "Ani Gonpas", which are the abode of nuns. Unlike the monks (Lamas), the girls become nuns and join the nunnery on their own and there is no social pressure or tradition making the practice compulsory.Brama dung chung Ani gonpa (nunnery) is the oldest Ani Gompa (Nunnery) in Tawang District . It is situated in the lap of a far off mountain laced with natural scenery. It is located at a distance of 9 Kms. from the main town. This nunnery was constructed by a Lama named Karchen Yeshi Gelek from Tsang province of Tibet in the year 1595 A.D. Presently there are forty five (Anis) nuns in this Monastery. Being very poor, the inhabitants of Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa depend on begging for sustaining themselves.

TAWANG TREKKING AND FOOD

Tawang is a much undiscovered Trekkers paradise, offering breath taking views, fresh mountain air, chill weather, and challenging or leisurely treks.

For a rigorous trek ( classified hard), take the Jang - Thingbu - Mago - Goi ichen Base Camp - Mago (Back) - Luguthang - Sena Chakra - RA-I route.

The softer trekking routes include the Mukto - Gongkhar - Gyamdong - Khet - Kharung - Bongleng - Kungba - Namsring - Kharteng - Lumla route, and the Tawang Gonpa - Gyangong Ani Gonpa - Bhramadongchung Ani Gonpa - Tawang routes.

You can also trek along the Namet Village - Zarmang Ani Gonpa - Khromten Gonpa - Geshila - Klimta - Bomla - Y. Junction - Tawang route, which takes you close to the Chinese border outpost at Bomla.

Trekkers are advised to come fully attired and prepared for the worst.

Take a walk around the charming town.

Pray at the 400 year old Tawang Gompa. Turn the prayer wheels dotted outside small gompas. Meet and chat with the friendly Lama monks. Take excursions around town to visit beautiful glacier lakes and smaller gompas with big histories.

Chat with friendly and beautiful locals.

Take a nap on a hillock if its sunny, be prepared to be awoken by a grazing Yak.

[edit][add listing] BuyTawang has a good range of tourist souvenir shops which sell Budhdhist prayer wheels in colourful wood, chadars (wrap skirts worn by local women), beautiful bags, shawls, brassware, Budhdha statues. Look for shops in Old Market as well as Tibetan settlement.

[edit][add listing] EatTibetean delicacies like Thupka , momos or simple and delicious Paratha- Sabzi eaten hot from the roadside shacks on cold misty days are a treat !! Most restaurants in Tawang serve these. A small shack called Annapurna serves delicious alu ( potato) chips.

The traditional Monpa cuisine use a generous amount of chillies and fermented cheese which has a strong flavour and is not for the faint hearted.

Some traditional Arunachal dishes are, the famous Momo, widely eaten in the north east and other Himalayan regions. The Momo is made by stuffing minced Pork and Onions into a dough and then steamed in a three layer steamer, or fried.

The Thukpa is a soup filled with noodles, minced meat, and vegetables, also known as Der Thuk. Ashum Thukpa is made of Maize, beans and meat.

Zan is the staple dish of the Monpa tribes. It is usually made of Millet flour. It is usually had with vegetables or meat to which is added fermented cheese, soya bean or other herbs.

Khura is a pancake, had with tea.

Gyapa Khazi is a kind of Pulao made of rice, fermented cheese, small dried fish or shrimp, chillies ginger and other spices.

Like all places of travel, some of the best food is found at the small non descript, sometime not very hygenic, eateries, that serve authentic dishes at very affordable prices. They are sure to be authentic food of the region as they are most frequented by locals.

Tawang Sightseeing

Tawang Monastery (Gonpa)Golden Namgyal Lhatse commonly referred to as Tawang Monastery is one of the largest lamaseries of Mahayana sects and the second oldest Monastery in the world after Lhasa. This Monastery was founded by a monk Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso, a contemporary of His Holiness Fifth Dalai Lama in 1681 AD. The monastery complex comprises of more than 65 residential buildings meant for monks. The Monastery also houses the establishment of the Head Priest, living chambers of the Lamas, an ancient library and antique museum. The most important building of the monastery is the main assembly hall/ temple called Duk-hang. It houses the colossal gilded statue of Lord Buddha. Apart from this are many statues of God and Goddesses preserved for offering prayers. Thangkas and other art facts antique are well protected. The Monastery is housed with more than 500 monks. It has also a centre of Buddhist Cultural Studies where young monks are provided basic education besides traditional monastic education. Now a day, Tawang Monastery is also light up with tiny bulbs emitting its perfect shape and size for the viewers at night.Urgelling GonpaThis Gonpa is believed to have been in existence since 14th century. It was one of the first three monasteries built by Urgen Sangpo, the youngest brother of Terton Pempalingpa, the famous Treasure-Revealer. Dating more than 550 years ago, the monastery is the birth place of Tsangyang Tashi, His Holiness the 6th Dalai Lama. He was the son of Lama Tashi Teiizin of Urgelling village a descendent of Terton Pempalingpa. This Gonpa is about 5 King; away from Tawang township.

NunneryTawang has many aged old traditional Buddhist Nunneries called Ani Gonpa, In fact, there is no any hard and fast regulation in the society compelling any girl child to become a nun but they join nun hood at their own wishes.

Gyangong Ani Gonpa (Buddhist Nunnery)Jangchub Choeling commonly referred to as Gyangong Ani Gonpa is a Nunnery beautifully perched on the hillock which is about 5 Kms from Tawang township founded by Merag Lama Lodre Gyamtso and is believed to have subsequently handed over to his elder sister. One can have a beautiful sight of this nunnery from Tawang Monastery as well. Anybody wishes to visit Gyangong Ani Gonpa needs to trek about half an hour from Tawang Monastery. This Nunnery houses more than 50 nuns.

Brahrna-dung-chung Ani GonpaGaden Thekchen Choeling, popularly known as Brahmadungchung Ani Gonpa is one of the oldest nunneries in Tawang district located at about 8 Kms from Tawang township. It was commissioned by Lama Karchen Yeshi Gelek in 1816 AD. Presently the Gonpa is housed with 40 Anis (Nuns). Any visitors wanted to contribute (cash or kind) towards the welfare of Gonpa is accepted with thanks.

Singsur Ani GonpaThis Ani Gonpa is at 28 Kms distance from Tawang township towards Ghesila mountain range. There are many other Ani Gonpa (Nunneries) viz. Zyumay Ani Gonpa and Ngawang Ani Gonpa in Tawang district

Taktsang GonpaTaktsang Gonpa is located at the distance of 45 Kms from Tawang township, is believed to have consecrated by the visit of Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century AD. This Monastery is perched on the ridge of the hillock surrounded by a dense coniferous forest and lofty mountains. Visitors can also conduct a visit (Tirth yatra) round about the places nearby Taktsang Gonpa where Guru Padmasambhava had meditated. It is place where one can really feel the ecstasy of being alone.

Gorsam ChortenThis is situated 90 Kms from Tawang town. This Stupa is the largest Stupa of the

area. This Gorsam Chorten is believed to have constructed in the early part of 12* century by Lama Pradhar, Monpa monk.

BangaJang LakeNature has so lavishly blessed the entire Banga Jang range that one cannot help resist themselves from exclaiming the fabulous design of the nature. Every year Pilgrims Tour (Tirth Yatra) round about the Banga Jang range to acquire the heavenly bliss and Sanctity. A numinous story has a big hold of the area. Apart from Banga Jang lake, there are number of lakes in the area. ' Deities are believed to have a strong control over every lake. Many Pilgrims had visited the place but only few probably pure hearted pilgrims had an experience of witnessing the deities in lake in different images.

Hot springsTawang is endowed with many hot water springs which are known for their medicinal value. All these hot water springs have high sulpher content which cures many skin ailments.

Tsachu hotThe water spring can be reached traveling by light motor vehicle for two hours from Tawang up to Sarong Gonpa and from there one has to trek on foot for another three hours. Apart from this, there is many other Hot spring available in Tawang district viz. Kitpi Hot Spring, Thingbu Hot Spring, Greng-khar Hot spring etc.

ccommodation facilities at different locations TAWANG (STD Code: 03794)PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION1. TAWANG INN (Contact No. 224096)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe Suite 01 (Double bedded) Rs. 1600/- -Do-Suite 04 (Double bedded) Rs. 1500/- -Do-Deluxe 02 (Double bedded) Rs. 1000/- -Do-Semi Deluxe 07 (Double bedded) Rs. 800/- -Do-Other facilities: Restaurant attached 2. TOURIST HUT (Contact No. 222738)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 03 Rs. 500/- TV, Geyser, Heater3. HOTEL NEFA (Contact No. 222419)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 04 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 500/- TV, Geyser, Bhukhari

Economy rooms 04 (Four bedded)Common Bath Rs. 350/- Bhukhari

Other facilities: Restaurant attached 4. HOTEL SAMDUPLING (Contact No. 224213)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 06 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 750/- TV, Geyser, HeaterSemi Deluxe 07 (Double bedded) Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser, Heater

Attached BathEconomy rooms 01 (Four bedded)

Common Bath Rs. 450/- -Other facilities: Restaurant attached 5. HOTEL DOLMA (Contact No. 224131 / 223271)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 02 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 700/-

Semi Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 600/-

Economy rooms 02 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 400/-

Dormitory 01 (Four bedded)Common Bath

Rs. 150 per bed

Other facilities: Restaurant attached 6. HOTEL BUDDHA (Contact No. 222954)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesSuper Deluxe 02 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs.825/- TV, Geyser, Heater

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 715/-

Classic 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 605/-

Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Conference Hall7. MONYUL LODGE (Contact No. 222196)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 02 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 02 (Triple bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 01 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/-

Other facilities: Restaurant attached8. HOTEL ANAPURNA (Contact No. Nil)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 03 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 02 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, Geyser

Dormitory 01 (Triple bedded)Attached Bath

Rs. 150 per bed TV

Other facilities: Restaurant attached9. HOTEL GOURICHEN (Contact No. 224151l)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe 06 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 650/- TV, GeyserSemi Deluxe 06 (Double bedded) Rs.450/- GeyserOther facilities: Restaurant attached10. HOTEL ALPINE (Contact No. 222515)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

Super Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 350/- TV, Geyser

Semi Deluxe 01 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 300/- TV, Geyser

Dormitory 01 (Triple bedded)Common Bath Rs. 300/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached11. HOTEL DUNGPHU (Contact No. 223765)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesSuper Deluxe 01 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 900/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 04 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Deluxe 01 (Double bedded)Attached Bath Rs. 850/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 02 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand12. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesSuper Deluxe 03 (Double bedded)

Attached Bath Rs. 550/- TV, Geyser

Economy rooms 03 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 450/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attached, Bhukhari provided on demand13. HOTEL RAINBOW (Contact No. 222348)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesDeluxe/Semi Deluxe 12 rooms - -

14. HOTEL GANGCHIN(Contact No. 224243)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff FacilitiesEconomy rooms 01 (Double bedded)

Common Bath Rs.600/- TV, Heater

Economy rooms 07 (Double bedded)Common Bath Rs. 400/- -

Other facilities: Restaurant attachedPAYING GUEST ACCOMMODATIONSl. No. Paying Guest Accommodation No. of rooms01 Kelsang Paying Guest Accommodation

(PGA) 03 rooms 02 Snowland PGA 04rooms 03 Seven Sisters PGA (Lemberdung) 03 rooms 04 Tribal Discoveries PGA 02rooms

GOVERNMENT ACCOMMODATIONTOURIST LODGE (Contact No. 03794 - 222359 (O) 223019 (Fax) 222567 (R)Room Category No. of rooms Tariff Facilities

VIP Suite 02 (Five bedded) Rs. 700/- per room TV, Geyser, Heater

Deluxe 03 (Two bedded) Rs. 400/- per room TV, Geyser, Heater

Semi Deluxe 04 (Triple bedded) Rs. 300/- per room Geyser, Heater

Economy rooms 10 (Double bedded) Rs. 200/- per room Geyser, Heater

BHALUKPONG (STD Code: 03782)

Sl. No. Name of Hotel &Phone Number

Rooms

DormitorySingle Double

1 Circuit house/IB (PWD)234424   6  

2 Guest House (IFCD)234424   2  

3 Forest Guest House 234478   4  

BOMDILA (STD Code: 03782)

Sl. No. Name of Hotel &Phone Number

Rooms

DormitorySingle Double

1 Tourist lodge222049   8 1 room @ Rs. 20/- per bed.

2 Circuit House222021   7  

3 Hotel Shipyang Pong222286 10 12 @ Rs. 100/- per bed

4 Hotel Dawa222360   5  

5 Hotel Bomdila222416 1 6  

6 Hotel Pasang222627 1 5  

7 Hotel Potola222248 1 4  

8 LA Hotel222097/22416 4 6  

9 Sangrilla Hotel222226   5  

DIRANG (STD Code: 03780)

Sl. No. Name of Hotel &Phone Number

Rooms

DormitorySingle Double

1 Tourist Lodge222221/222225   4  

2 Hotel Pemaling222215   4  

3 IB (P.W.D)222221   4  

Shorter route to Tawang

Press Trust Of India / Kolkata/ Itanagar March 10, 2006

With the inauguration of a bridge on the Lumla-Dudunghar road and completion of a new road, the distance between Guwahati and Tawang town, a popular tourist spot in Arunachal Pradesh, through Bhutan, has been reduced by 170 km.  The 52-metre long Namtsering bridge on Nyamjangchu river at Lumla was inaugurated by chief minister Gegong Apang.  It removed a major hurdle in the way of shortening the distance between the two places.  A stretch of 11km of the new road is yet to be constructed.  It will reduce the distance between Guwahati and Tawang by 170km, according to G Rimpoche, chairman of the advisory council for tourism of Arunachal Pradesh.  On completion of the new road, tourists will be able to come to Tawang without having to make the journey through Sela pass, he said.  Rimpoche represents Lumla in the assembly.  

Dirang - Tawang 

General Information

Area  :   This sprawling region spread over 2 districts is not part of any protected area  Altitude  : 1500-4300+ m (all of it accessible by road)  Lat-Long  :  27.5N  92.1E, W. Kameng & Tawang districts, Arunachal Pradesh   See  mapNodal Locations :  Dirang (W. Kameng) and Jang (Tawang)Vegetation Type  :  dry inner valleys, cultivation, temperate broad-leaved and conifer forests, scrub, alpine meadows.Best Season - Birds  :  April-June & October-December, depending on snowfallBest Season - butterflies  :  monsoon (May - September)Speciality Birds  :  Monal pheasant, blood pheasant, Satyr and Temminck's tragopans, black-necked crane, long-billed plover, ward's trogon, alpine accentor, eyebrowed thrush, white-throated redstart, slender-billed scimitar-babbler, brown-throated tit-babbler/fulvetta, coal tit, rufous-bellied tit, rufous-fronted tit, eurasian treecreeper, fire-tailed sunbird, beavan's bullfinch, brown bullfinch, white-winged grosbeak, red-billed chough.(top)

Birding Areas

3-5 days is required to cover this vast area which has some really special birds. Doing this area by public transport, other than Sela Pass, is not possible.

Dirang (W. Kameng)Sangti Valley  :  (1600m). Dry inner valley with pine stands and cultivation. The only black-necked crane wintering area in India (1-10 birds in late November-February only)Mandala - Sela ridge road  :  (2200-3700m). Temperate broad-leaved forest and scrub, extensive conifer stands and summer pastures.

Sela Ridge  :  3500-4500m. Demarcates the W. Kameng - Tawang district border. Treeline vegetation (conifers, birch and rhododendron, dwarf scrub) and alpine meadows.  The highway itself has decent roadside birding between Baisakhi (8 km beyond Sengay)  and Sela Pass and also further beyond on the Jang side. A road goes off from the Pass to Chabre La and then to B.J.Gompa. This passes through extensive alpine meadows and tree-line vegetation.

Jang (Tawang)Jang - B.J.Gompa road :  2800-4300m. Temperate bamboo, broad-leaved and fir forests; alpine meadows. The entire road is open during summer; snow conditions determine access rest of the year, when it gets quite chancy above 3500m.Jang - Rama Spur road : 2800-3800+m. Temperate bamboo, fir and rhododendron forests with clearings. The road begins to descend beyond the highest point at 3800m. But one can climb higher on foot.(top)

Boarding & Lodging

Dirang  (1625m, Grade 3)  :  couple of decent hotels (doubles at Rs. 500-1500) and several other basic ones and restaurants.Sengey  (3000m, Grade 4) :  (3000m ) : PWD IB (2-4 people). CCC!Sangti  :  (1600m,  Grade 5) : Sheep breeding centre IB (?). Camping by river.Jang  :  (2200m - Grade 3) : A PWD IB (8 people). CCC!B.J.Gompa  :  (4200m? - Grade 5) : a buddhist monastery, opens during summer. It is in the alpine zone and may be a good place for exploring the area, if accommodation is available there.See   town grade  and   accommodation  descriptions (top)

Contact

As of now there is no local contact person in Dirang or Jang. Mr. Indi Glow of Tenga can help with making the arrangements.More Information on the area  :   Ramana Athreya email  (rathreya at ncra . tifr . res . in)Bird Tours  :   Kaati Tours  & Mr. Indi Glow (President, Bugun Welfare Society)          Mr. Glow   :   Tenga Market, Tenga, W. Kameng, Arunachal Pradesh, Ph  91-3782-273359       Kaati Tours   :     Ph  +91-2132-245770   email    (kaati_tours at vsnl . net)

(top)

Entry Permits

Arunachal entry permits are required for both Indians and foreigners and are checked on entry at Bhalukpong.  The Circle Officers at Tenga/Singchung/Bhalukpong/Bomdila/Dirang/Jang  can issue fresh permits to extend the stay (for Indians only). No other permits are required. However, this area has a very heavy army presence; any group of birders with serious optics should take the time to inform the local army officials of their presence especially if they plan to wander far from the highway - this is also a good safety precaution in case unseasonal snowfall leaves the party stranded far from habitation.(top)

Transport 

This is a region of early starts and long commutes with Dirang and Bomdila  being the only place for those who require very comfortable sleeping quarters. Bomdila, Dirang, Sela and Jang lie on the Tezpur-Tawang highway and are served by several daily buses and shared taxis. But the Sela Pass is the only area which can be accessed solely by public transport. All other localities are off the highway and may not have any traffic for days on end. So a reliable jeep and good weather are essential for visiting these places. Diesel vehicles must be capable of handling sub-zero conditions. The army is responsible for keeping these roads open and are quite efficient at clearing snow and rocks from the highway but sometimes it can take a day or two in case of heavy snowfall in winter (January - March). It is best not to attempt the side roads after the first winter snow (usually in late December).

The Mandala - ChabriLa road is still not through; construction is going on about 20+ km beyond Mandala.

DistancesDirang - Bomdila  :  42 kmDirang - Sangti  :  10? kmDirang - Mandala  :  28 km, good forest for another 20 km  towards  ChabriLaDirang to  :  Sengay  37 km,  Baisakhi  45 km,  Sela Pass  61 km,Sela to  :  ChabriLa  11 km,  B.J.Gompa  17 km,  Jang 59 km (side road)Sela to  :  Jang  37 km,  Tawang 77 km  (along the highway)Jang -  highest point on Rama Spur road  :  32 kmTypical speeds on these hill roads are 20 kmph, both ascending and descendingSee also  transport in W. Arunachal(top)

Map of Dirang-Tawang  Areasclick here for  map details  and an  overview of W. Arunachal

Jalpaiguri  Range

Name  &  Designation

Office  Nos. S.P. ( Jalpaiguri ) Dist. 953561-230492

S.P. ( Cooch Behar ) Dist. 953582-227755 227745

POLICE CONTROL ROOM

Malda

03512

252310/252951

Jalpaiguri

03561

230725/230682

Darjeeling

0354

2254247/2252520

Uttar Dinajpur

03523

252883

Dakshin Dinajpur

03522

255554

Cooch Behar

03582

227800

Name of the District DHUBRI

Area(sq. kms) 2838 Population (1991) 13,25,653 Name of the S. P.(IPS Cadre Post) Shri Deepak Choudhury, IPS Phone : Office (03662) 230014/230974 Residence (03662) 230004/233354 Fax (03662) 231100 e-mail - sp_dhub@assampolice.com Other G.Os./C.Is.: Addl. S.P.(HQ) (03662) 230029 (O), 230017 (R) Addl. S.P. (B) (03662) 231744 (O) Dy.S.P. (HQ) (03662) 230045 (O), 230028 (R) Dy.S.P. (DSB) (03662) 230028 (O), 233353 (R) SDPO, Bilashipara (03667) 250213 (O) SDPO, Hatsingimari (03662) 286326 (O) C.I., Bilashipara (03667) 250330 (O) C.I., Mankachar (03662) 285228 (O) Name of the Police Station / Out Post : Name of the Police StationPhone1. Dhubri (03662) 230979 2. Golokganj (03662) 287230 3. Bilashipara (03667) 250221 4. Chapor (03667) 263555 5. Mancachar (03662) 285229 6. South Salmara - 7. Gouripur (03662) 281428 Name of the OutPost Phone 1. B. N. College T.O.P. (03662) 230074 2. Bazar T.O.P. (03662) 230077 3. Chagalia (03662) 238637 4. Sapatgram (03667) 281227 5. Bondihana - 6. Sukchar

GOALPARA

Name of the S. P.(IPS Cadre Post) Shri Luish Aind, APS Phone : Office (03663) 240161 Residence (03663) 240026 Fax (03663) 240595 e-mail - sp_gpara@assampolice.com Other

G.Os./C.Is.: Addl. S.P.(HQ) (03663) 240171 (O), 240088 (R) Dy. S.P. (HQ) (03663) 240172 (O), 240138 (R) C.I., Dudhnoi (03663) 281557 (O) Name of the Police Station / Out Post : Name of the Police StationPhone1.Goalpara (03663) 240031 2.Dudhnoi (03663) 281542 3.Rangjuli (03663) 286042 4.Dhupdhara(03663) 284303 5.Lakhipur (03663) 283432 6. Matia (03663) 288001 7. Baguan* - 8. Marnoi* (03663) 287001 Name of the OutPost Phone1. Agia (03663) 285008 2. Kharmuja - 3. Kukurkata - 4. Krishnai (03663) 282225 5. Joleswar -

Name of the S. P.(IPS Cadre Post) Shri Prithipal Singh, IPS Phone : Office (03713) 222214 Residence (03713) 222149 Fax (03713) 222198 e-mail - sp_darr@assampolice.com Other G.Os./C.Is.: Addl. S.P. (HQ) (03713) 222213 (O), 222213 (R) Dy. S.P. (HQ) (03713) 222122 (O) Dy. S.P. (DSB) (03713) 222175 (O), 222175 (R) Name of the Police Station / Out Post :Name of the Police StationPhone

1. Mangaldoi (03713) 222136 2. Dalgaon (03713) 270072 3. Dhula (03713) 252009 4. Sipajhar (03713) 266426 Name of the Out Post Phone1. Burah - 2. Kharupetia (03711) 254283, 224387 3. Daipam -