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TRANSCRIPT
Ascena Adult’s Testing Manual
V 5.0
2 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – WOVEN……….……………………………………………………………………3
APPAREL FABRIC TESTING – KNIT………...………….………………………………………………………….5
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – WOVENS…….…………………………………………………………………7
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – KNITS…..…….………….…………………………………………………….9
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – INTIMATE APPAREL & SLEEPWEAR.……………………………….11
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWIMWEAR & SWIM COVER….………………………………………14
APPAREL GARMENT TESTING – SWEATERS..….………………..……………………………………………16
APPAREL FABRIC & GARMENT TESTING – DENIM..……………………………………………………..…18
APPAREL LEATHER & SUEDE – SKINS & GARMENTS……..……………………………………………….20
ACCESSORIES – SOCKS, TIGHTS, LEGWARMERS, ARMWARMERS…..……………………………….21
ACCESSORIES – FASHION SCARVES, HATS, GLOVES, COLD WEATHER SCARVES….……….…22
ACCESSORIES – BELTS, BACK PACK, SOFT SIDED TOTE, HANDBAG, WALLET, CLUTCHES,
COIN PURSE, TRAVEL BAGS.…….……………………………………………………………………………..… 23
FOOTWEAR….….……….…………………………………………………………………………………………….....24
ZIPPERS…..…….……………………………………………………………………………………………………..…..25
BATH, BODY & COSMETICS………..…………………………………………………………………………..…..27
CANDLES & CANDLE HOLDERS.…..………..……………………………………………………………..………31
EYEWEAR.…….………………………………………………………………………………………..…………33
JEWELRY & HAIR ACCESSORIES….….…………………………………………………………………………...34
CHECK LIST ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….36
3 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven PROTOCOL-001
Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing. One half (1/2) yard of each additional color is to be
submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with. Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight – all colors ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%
Dimensional Stability: Home Laundering (1x and 3x)– all colors
AATCC 135 modified
+/- 3% Spandex Blends: +/- 4% Rayon, CV Rayon Blends +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability: Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method
modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning– all colors
ARG-00002 -MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage Shell
� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) � > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) � > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4gm/m2) � >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining � <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) � ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min 15 lbs min 20 lbs min
Tensile Strength
ASTM D5034
Shell
� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs minimum
� > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6 gm/m2) 25 lbs minimum
� > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2) 30 lbs minimum
� >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2) 40 lbs minimum
Lining
� <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) 15 lbs minimum
� ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs minimum
Tear Strength Shell Fabric
� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( ≤ 101.7 gm/m2) � > 3.0-4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7~135.6gm/m2) � > 4.0-6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6~203.4 gm/m2) � >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining � <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) � ≥ 3oz/yd2 (≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
ASTM D1424
1.5 lbs minimum 2.0 lbs minimum 3.0 lbs minimum 4.0 lbs minimum
1.0 lbs minimum 1.5 lbs minimum
Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with elastomeric/stretch fiber)
ASTM 3107 or ASTM D6614
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
4 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Woven (continued) PROTOCOL-001
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 135 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors lining fabrics for jackets, vests
AATCC 15 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING
8 cm A/20 minutes min. REPORT ACTUAL TOTAL DISTANCE IN CM
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-00003-MTHD
DRYING RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
Air Permeability – wind resistance claim; shell fabric only ASTM D737
Antimicrobial - Only if Claimed to have Antimicrobial Properties
AATCC TM 100-2004 > 50% Reduction
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL,
OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST
PROTOCOL METHOD*
5 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit PROTOCOL-002
Submit:A minimum of two (2) yards in one (1) colorway must be submitted for full package testing.One half (1/2) yard of each
additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing (as applicable).Submitted fabric must be representative of
finished bulk fabric that will be used in garment production. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Fiber content AATCC 20/20A
For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors ASTM D3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability: Home Laundering (1x and 3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 modified
Basic Knits +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6%
Dimensional Stability: Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method
modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning– all colors
ARG-00002 -MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete
list of examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen =
3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off =
satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated
via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home
Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Skewness in Fabric AATCC 179 Method 2,
Option 3 5% maximum
Bursting Strength ASTM D3786
≥ 4 oz: 50 psi < 4 oz: 30 psi Lace ≥ 4 oz: 30 psi < 4 oz: 20 psi
Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) ASTM D3512 3.0 Minimum 30 minutes
Stretch Fabrics: Load, Elongation & Recovery
Fabrics with elastomeric content ≥ 5%, only.
Performed in direction of stretch, only
ASTM D2594-08e2 Elongation: Report data only
Recovery: 85% minimum
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
6 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric Testing – Knit (continued) PROTOCOL-002
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors lining fabrics for jackets, vests
AATCC 15 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Antimicrobial - Only if Claimed to have Antimicrobial Properties
AATCC TM 100-2004 > 50% Reduction
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL, OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
7 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens PROTOCOL-003
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A
For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight – all colors ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC
ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 150 modified
+/- 3% Spandex Blends: +/- 4% Rayon, CV Rayon Blends +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off =
satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage Shell
� ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) � > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2 ( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) � > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4gm/m2) � >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
Lining � <3 oz/yd2 ( < 101.7 gm/m2) � ≥ 3oz/yd2 ( ≥ 101.7 gm/m2)
Strap Attachment
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min 15 lbs min 20 lbs min 15 lbs min Functional 10 lbs min Lace
Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim
AATCC 35 1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters
Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics
AATCC 22 100 min
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
8 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Wovens (continued) PROTOCOL-003
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL, OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes/ Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with elastomeric/stretch fiber) TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE
ASTM 3107 or ASTM D6614
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only - maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
9 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Knits PROTOCOL-004
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight – all colors ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC
ASTM D3776 +5%/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 150 modified
Basic Knits +/-5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Strap Attachment ASTM D1683 15 lbs min Functional 10 lbs min Lace
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
Water Resistance - rainwear duty garments, water resistance claim
AATCC 35 1 gm. Max. for 2 minute duration at 600 millimeters
Water Repellency: Spray Test - water repellent claims; applies to both shell & lining fabrics
AATCC 22 100 min
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING
8 cm A/20 minutes min. REPORT ACTUAL TOTAL DISTANCE IN CM
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry 00003-MTHD DRYING RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
Air Permeability – wind resistance claim; shell fabric only
ASTM D737 5.0 cfm max.
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
10 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Knits (continued) PROTOCOL-004
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL, OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE
ASTM D3512 3.0 Minimum 30 minutes
Stretch Fabrics: Load, Elongation & Recovery
Fabrics with elastomeric content ≥ 5%, only.
Performed in direction of stretch, only.
TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE
ASTM D2594-08e2 Elongation: Report data only
Recovery: 85% minimum
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes /Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec
for Stuffed & Upholstered
Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
11 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear PROTOCOL-005
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For intimates apparel submit (4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 / 150 modified
Basic Knits +/-5% Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Wovens +/- 3% Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: Spandex Blends: +/- 4% Rayon, CV Rayon Blends +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage
• ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) • > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2
( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) • > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4
gm/m2) • >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min
Bursting Strength – Mullen Method ASTM D 3786
Fabric: 50 psi minimum Garment Seams: 30 psi minimum Lace: > 4 oz/sq yd: 30 psi minimum <= 4 oz/sq yd: 20 psi minimum
Pilling Resistance (Random Tumble) TEST ONLY IF NOT TESTED IN FABRIC STAGE
ASTM D3512 3.0 Minimum 30 minutes
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking;
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING
8 cm A/20 minutes min. REPORT ACTUAL TOTAL DISTANCE IN CM
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-00003-MTHD DRYING
RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
12 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear (continued)
PROTOCOL-005
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
*Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors Intimate Apparel *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 15 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (White Bra Only)
AATCC23 Grade 4 minimum after 1 cycle
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) non-exempt fabrics– all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
Formaldehyde Content in Textile Intimate Apparel Only
JIS L1041 Only conduct if spot test shows positive or inconclusive result. All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75 mg/kg (75 ppm).
Formaldehyde Spot Test on Textile Intimate Apparel Only
AATCC 94
Body Fabric/Fabric/Trim (including elastic, embroidery, ribbons, bows, applique, drawcord, patches, twill tape, etc.) shall be negative result. Not applied on synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, PU, etc.; wet chem. analysis should be done.
pH Intimate Apparel Only
AATCC 81 White: 5.5 – 7.0 Others: 5.0 – 9.0
Hook & Eye Tension ARG-00001 No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to meet requirements.
Bra Band Elongation ARG-00005 Minimum: Report as Data Maximum: Report as Data
13 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Intimate Apparel & Sleepwear (continued)
PROTOCOL-005
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL, OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Stretch & Fabrics: Load, Elongation, & Recovery Intimate Apparel Only (All Fabrics and Functional Elastics ) Test Before and After Aging
ASTM D2594 Test Before and After Aging
In stretch direction only:
Elastic Fiber Content Test In Original State and After aging 5 hours at 200° F
1 – 5%: Measure Growth after 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: maximum 7.0% Recovery: Minimum 85.0%
Above 5%, but less than 10%: Measure Growth and Recovery after 60 minutes. Report both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: maximum 5.0% Recovery: Minimum 85.0%
Equal to or greater than 10%: Measure Recovery after 60 seconds and 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on recovery.
Recovery: Minimum 85.0%
Functional Elastic Trims (After aging 5 hours at 200° F)
ASTM D4964
In stretch direction only:
Elastic Fiber Content
1 – 5%: Measure Growth after 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: maximum 7.0%
Above 5%, but less than 10%: Measure Growth and Recovery after 60 minutes. Report both growth and recovery. Pass or fail based on growth.
Growth: maximum 5.0%
Equal to or greater than 10%: Measure Recovery after 60 seconds and 60 minutes. Pass or fail based on recovery.
Recovery: Minimum 85.0%
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec
for Stuffed & Upholstered
Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
14 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up PROTOCOL-006
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway for full package garment testing. For swimwear submit (4) four garments for each style in one (1) colorway. Each additional color is to be submitted for additional colorway testing. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Fiber Content Assumes fiber content of fabric confirmed at fabric stage.
AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 / 150 modified
Basic Knits +/-5% Rib / Novelty Knits +/- 6% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering (3x) – all colors
AATCC 135 / 150 modified
Wovens +/- 3% Woven Spandex Blends / Rayon Blends: +/- 4% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering/ Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2, Option 3 5% maximum
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage
• ≤ 3.0 oz/yd2 ( <101.7 gm/m2) • > 3.0 - 4.0oz/yd2
( > 101.7 ~ 135.6gm/m2) • > 4.0 - 6.0oz/yd2 ( > 135.6 ~ 203.4
gm/m2) • >6.0 oz/yd2 ( > 203.4 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
15 lbs min 20 lbs min 25 lbs min 30 lbs min
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking;
ARG-00004-MTHD-VERTICAL WICKING
8 cm A/20 minutes min. REPORT ACTUAL TOTAL DISTANCE IN CM
Drying Rate -claim regarding quick dry; ARG-000003-MTHD DRYING
RATE Before Wash: 70% min. After 5x cycles: rate as data only
15 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Swimwear & Swim Cover-up (continued)
PROTOCOL-006
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors
*Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum For Pigment Prints & Dyes / Black/Neon Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Light – all colors AATCC 16 Option 3
20 AFU’s Grade 3.0 minimum Neon Colors: Grade 2.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-Chlorine Bleach– all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Sea Water - swimwear, only– all colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
AATCC 106 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water- swimwear, only– all colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
EN ISO 105 E03 50ml Solution
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water- swim cover-ups only– all colors *Any Fabrications used for COLORBLOCK styles, must be submitted in colorblocked mock-up for test.
EN ISO 105 E03 20ml Solution
Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum
Hook & Eye Tension ARG-00001 No breakage, deformation, detachment, shifting or other damage after 30 lbs hold for 10 seconds. All hooks and eyes are required to meet requirements.
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec
for Stuffed & Upholstered
Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
16 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Sweaters PROTOCOL-007
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with one (1) additional garment or knit down panels
(three (3) pcs 24” x 24”) of additional color, stripe or pattern. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight– all colors Per dozen garments +/-5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all colors
AATCC 150 modified
+/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Dimensional Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
AATCC 158 or Professional Method modified
+/- 2% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering / Dry-cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning A/1 cycle – all colors AATCC 158 modified
Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Scope is Expanded to Evaluate Color/Staining
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors
(In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
Dry: Grade 4.0 minimum Wet: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2,
Option 3 5% maximum
Seam Stretchability of Knitted Garments AATCC/ASTM TS-015 15 lbs or 40% elongation minimum
Pilling Resistance (ICI Method – Sweaters)
IWS 152/ ISO 12945-1 Lambswool, Cashmere – Grade 3 A/2 hrs All Others – Grade 3 A/4 hrs.
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
17 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Garment Testing – Sweaters(continued) PROTOCOL-007
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
Metallic Fiber Content
Duty Identification
(AATCC 20-2013/AATCC
20A-2013 MECHANICAL
SEPARATION METHOD)
Visual assessment to confirm metallic fiber content for duty
classification.
Metallic analysis should be done when: o The yarn in question is pre‐twisted with an “S” or “Z” twist o The garment contains multiple yarns, some of which are not twisted with metallic Metallic analysis should not be done when: o The yarn is not pre‐twisted, including yarns plated or marled with
metallic o The pre‐twisted metallic yarn only represents a section of the
garment and not the chief weight yarn, i.e. a thin metallic stripe or a patch of the garment
Test report should include the following: o Number of resultant yarns o Fiber content of each piled yarn in resultant yarn o The number of piles in each piled yarn (should include pre‐twisted designation if applicable) o The relative weight by percentage of each of the yarns that comprise the fiber o Fiber content for FTC labeling and US Customs
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
18 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim PROTOCOL-008
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway and one (1) garment in each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Weight – all colors ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering– all finishes/colors
Fabric: AATCC 135 Garment: AATCC 150
modified
+/- 3% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering – all finishes/colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Skewness in Fabric and Garment Twist AATCC 179 Method 2,
Option 3 5% maximum
Tensile Strength � < 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2) � ≥ 6.0 - <8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2) � ≥ 8.0 - <10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1 gm/m2) � ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)
ASTM D5034
65 x 40 lbs min 65 x 50 lbs min 70 x 55 lbs min 75 x 65 lbs min
Tear Strength � < 6.0oz/yd2 (<203.4 gm/m2) � ≥ 6.0 - < 8.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 ~ < 271.2 gm/m2) � ≥ 8.0 - < 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥271.2 ~ < 339.1
gm/m2) � ≥ 10.0 oz/yd2 (≥ 339.1 gm/m2)
ASTM D1424 ASTM D2261
3.5 x 3.0 lbs min 3.5 x 3.0 lbs min 4.0 x 3.5 lbs min 4.5 x 4.0 lbs min
Seam Strength � < 6.0oz/yd2 ( < 203.4 gm/m2) � ≥6.0 oz/yd2 (≥203.4 gm/m2)
ASTM D1683
<6.0 oz/yd2
Seams – 20 lbs min Felled Seams – 25 lbs min ≥ 6.0 oz/yd2 Seams – 30 lbs min Felled Seams – 30 lbs min Reinforced and Bartack seams: -20 lbs minimum
pH - washed garments only (all colors) AATCC 81 All Colors: 5 – 8
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 135 /AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
19 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Fabric & Garment Testing – Denim (continued) PROTOCOL-008
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors (In case of failure, perform after 1 wash as per care label. Report as Data only)
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
Dark wash: Indigo, over-dyed, black Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.0 minimum All other Denim washes: Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Formaldehyde Content in Textile
JIS L1041 All fabrics/trims that come into contact with skin shall not exceed 75 mg/kg (75 ppm).
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Stretch and Recovery (Bottoms Only with elastomeric/stretch fiber)
ASTM 3107 or ASTM D6614
Extension : 15% @ 4lbs. /2”Width Maximum Growth: 5% @ 30 min.
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt Fabrics – perform only if not tested at fabric stage (all colors)
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must Comply with Regulations
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
20 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Apparel Leather and Suede – Skins & Garment PROTOCOL-009
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING ARE REQUIRED ON ALL FABRICS AND/OR TRIMS CONTAINING PU, VINYL, OTHER PLASTICIZED FINISHES (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
Submit:two (2) garments for each style in one (1) colorway along with two (2) 10” x 10” samples of leather/suede in each additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Weight ASTM 3776 +/- 5%
Fiber Content- as applicable for linings. AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Professional Leather Cleaning (1x)– all colors
Professional Leather Cleaning Method
Length/ Width: Growth: + 2% Shrinkage: - 2% x - 2%
Appearance Evaluation After Professional Leather Cleaning – all colors
ARG-00002 MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Zipper Marking Visual Assessment Approved trim supplier brand marking required Criteria - Pass/Fail
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) Non-exempt fabrics only – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
Seam Strength/ Seam Slippage (Woven Garments) Shell
ASTM D1683
30 lbs min
Lining
� <3.0 oz/yd2 (<101.7 gm/m2) 15 lbs min
� >3.0oz/yd2 (> 101.7 gm/m2) 20 lbs min
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Shell Dry: 3.0 Wet: 2.0
Lining Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Light – Shell only AATCC 16 Option 3 20
AFU’s CC: 3.0
Colorfastness to Perspiration – Linings only AATCC 15 CC: 4.0 CS: 3.0
Documentation review for Species Identification
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
21 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Accessories – Socks, Tights, Legwarmers, Armwarmers PROTOCOL-010 Submit: a minimum of six (6) pair socks or four (4) pair tights. All colorways must be represented. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A For blends, +/- 3% maximum
For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – all colors
AATCC 150 modified
Length/ Width: +/- 5%
Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering –all colors
ARG-00002-MTHD-APPEARANCE AFTER
CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135
Modified
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of Non-Exempt Fabrics – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
Vertical Wicking of Textiles - claim regarding absorbency or wicking
ARG-00004-MTHD VERTICAL WICKING
8 cm A/20 minutes min. REPORT ACTUAL TOTAL DISTANCE IN CM
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded
or stuffed items only – maurices product
only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
22 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Accessories - Fashion Scarves, Hats, Gloves, Cold Weather Scarves PROTOCOL-011
Submit: three (3) items in one (1) colorway. If flammability and/or lead testing is required send one (1) item each
additional colorway. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A
For blends, +/- 3% maximum. Report fiber content as percentage of whole for knit hats, gloves. For single fibers, +/- 0% tolerance
Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering – one color adequate
AATCC 150 modifed
Scarves: +/- 6% All Other Products: +/- 5% Modified = adding multi fiber test fabric
Appearance Evaluation After Home Laundering ARG-00002-MTHD-
APPEARANCE AFTER CARE
Surface Appearances (refer to ARG-00002) for a complete list of
examples.
i.e. color change to print, loss of glitter, change in sheen = 3.5
i.e. frosting, pilling, fraying, embellishment falling off = satisfactory
*Actual color change of the fabric color should be evaluated via the separate test method, Colorfastness to Home Laundering AATCC 135 Modified
Colorfastness to Actual Laundering After 1 HL, 3 HL as per care label All colors
AATCC 150 modified
General Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum, after 3 HL Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum, after 3 HL Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum, after 1 HL Pigment Prints or Pigment Dyed Products Color Change: Grade 3.5 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum Modification = Adding Multifiber to Specimen Rate CC without UV suppressor Pass/Fail. For off white or pastel body fabric shades, rate with UV suppressor – report as Data only
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors AATCC 8/AATCC 116 Dry: 4.0 Wet: 3.0
Colorfastness to Perspiration – all colors Only test if CF to Wet Crocking Fails
AATCC 15 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum Self-Staining: Grade 4.5 minimum Color Staining: Grade 3.0 minimum
Colorfastness to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine Bleach – all colors
AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Color Change: Grade 4.0 minimum
Flammability (General Wearing Apparel) of Non-Exempt Fabrics for scarves, only – all colors
16 CFR 1610 Canada SOR/2011-22
Class I Must comply with Regulations
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of Ontario, Manitoba, & Quebec for Stuffed & Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration
number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be
determined, chemical analysis is required
LEAD & PHTHALATES TESTING IS REQUIRED ON DECORATIVE TRIM SOLD WITH PRODUCT (WHEN APPLICABLE). REFERENCE ACCESSORIES / FOOTWEAR TEST PROTOCOL METHOD*
23 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Accessories - Belts, Back Pack, Soft-Sided Tote, Handbag, Wallet, Clutches, Coin Purse, Travel Bags PROTOCOL-012 Submit: Belt Testing: Send minimum of six (6) bulk production units if surface coating/printing is present.
Back Pack/Handbags/Totes/Wallets/Clutches etc: Submit six – ten (6-10), depending on size and/or amount of surface coating. If no coating is present, send three (3) bulk production units. Include all colorways. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements Total Lead Content
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable: 1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes, footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates (including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.
Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia (CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.
Phthalates Content
CA Proposition 65
(CGC-10-497729 &
CGC-10-498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP in the following materials: PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are included.
Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state. Compositing of up to 3 materials is allowed.
Belts Colorfastness to Crocking (Face and Back) All other Items Face Only
AATCC 8/ AATCC 116
Belts: Dry: 3.5 All other Items: Dry: 3.5 Wet: 2.5
Strap Attachment Items with straps only
ASTM D5034
25 lbs minimum
All New Material Label – filled,
quilted, padded or stuffed items
only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations
of Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined, chemical
analysis is required
24 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Footwear PROTOCOL-013 Submit: three – six (3-6) pairs. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Colorfastness to Crocking –
AATCC 8 or AATCC 116
General Upper & Lining (Dark colors only) Dry: Grade 3.5 Wet: Grade 2.5 Slippers Dry: Grade 3.5 minimum Wet: Grade 2.5 minimum Suede & Leather Dry: Grade 3.0 Wet: Grade 2.0
Total Lead Content
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1002-08.1
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1
Products shall comply with the following requirements, as applicable: 1. All accessible components in wallets, purses, handbags, clutches and totes, footwear and belts shall comply with the following limits (a),(b),(c) and (d): a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%) total lead content. b. PVC components/vinyl/faux leather accessible to the consumer touch, shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead content. c. Leather components shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Materials or components other than (a)-(c) shall not exceed 300 ppm (0.030%) total lead content. Compositing of up to 3 colors/ materials is acceptable for Lead in Substrates (including metals) and Lead in Surface Coatings.
Requirement (1) is not applicable to glass, ceramic and crystal such as cubic zirconia (CZ), glass or rhinestones – Legal Counsel to be consulted. Materials understood to be exempt for Prop 65 but not for products under CPSIA.
Phthalates Content
CA Proposition 65
(CGC-10-497729 &
CGC-10-498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP,DBP and DnHP in the following materials: PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are included. Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state. Compositing of up to 3 materials is allowed.
Heel Attachment Strength ASTM F2232 150 lb
Heel Impact Test Heels 2” or higher
BS5131-4.9 No Cracking @ 20,000 cycles
Toplifts – Heel Strength BS5131-5.9 25 lbs
Flex Cracking Resistance EN 17707 Outsole No Cracking @ 50,000 cycles
Sole Bond Peeling BS5131-5.4
Glued On 3.0 N/mm Flex Sole 2.0 N/mm
Strap / Buckle Attachment BS5131-5.11 44 lbs
Ornament Attachment BS5131-5.11 15 lbs / 10 sec.
25 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Footwear (continued) PROTOCOL-013
Slip Resistance ASTM F609
Unscuffed 0.4 Static/0.3 Kinetic Scuffed 0.5 Static /0.4 Kinetic Note: Perform Scuffing when original fails. Report results of both.
Strap Pull Out BS5131-5.11
Rubber Lateral Pull 14lbs Vertical Pull 16lbs Thong 55 lbs Heel Quarter 44 lbs Harachi 22 lbs Strappy Sandal 44 lbs
Seam Strength - slippers only ASTM D1683 25lbs min
All New Material Label – filled,
quilted, padded or stuffed items
only – slippers –
maurices product only
Provincial Regulations
of Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined, chemical
analysis is required
26 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Zippers PROTOCOL-014 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Construction Quality General Assessment Open-end zipper must have safety stop Zipper slide must be of locking type Zipper
functions with ease
Sharp Points / Sharp Edges CPSC 16 CFR 1500.48-
49
No sharp points or sharp edges allowed
Zipper Strength Testing ASTM D2061 Use below chart for requirements and reference depending on zipper type
Lead Content in Surface Coating .
Scrapeable in each color
CPSC-CH-E1003-09.1 .90 ppm (0.009% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted
Total Lead in Substrate Material CPSC-CH-E1002-08.3 /
CPSC-CH-E1001-08.3
.100 ppm (0.01% Total Weight) Composite Testing Permitted
Phthalates in each plasticized part
/ material such as PVC, Vinyl, etc.
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3 .1000 ppm (0.1%)
Zipper Strength Test ASTM D2061
Specification Number & Requirements 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10
Closed Chain Width (inch) 0.125-0.180 0.125-0.180
0.181-
0.310
0.181-
0.310
0.311-
0.390
0.320-
0.500
Tape Width (inch) 7/16-9/16 7/16-9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0
Chain Crosswise Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061;
14.1
Brass / Nickel 66 121 110.3 143 143 165
Aluminum 53 77 77 88 88 110
Plastic 59 59 77 77 110 132
Coiled 66 77 132 154 176 220
Separating Unit Crosswise Strength (lbf, min)
ASTM D2061; 30.3
Brass / Nickel 15.4 19.8 22 33 33 48.4
Aluminum 15.4 19.8 26.4 33 33 48.4
Plastic 15.4 19.8 24 26.4 37 48.4
Coiled 15.4 13.2 26.4 33 33 48.4
Single Element Strength (lbs. min) ASTM D2061;
14.2
Brass / Nickel 6.6 12 13.2 17.6 18.7 24.2
Aluminum 5.3 7.7 11 11 12 16.5
Plastic 5.5 5.5 10 10 17.6 19.8
Single Element Slippage (lbs., min.) ASTM D2061;
14.3
Brass / Nickel 5.3 9 9.9 9.9 13.2 18.7
Aluminum 5.3 6 6.2 9.9 12.1 16.5
Plastic 5.3 7.7 11 11 15.4 22
27 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Zippers (continued) PROTOCOL-014
Specification Number & Requirements 1-2 3-4 5-7 (A) 5-7 (B) 8-9 10
Closed Chain Width (inch) 0.125-0.180
0.125-
0.180
0.181-
0.310
0.181-
0.310
0.311-
0.390
0.320-
0.500
Tape Width (inch) 7/16-9/16
7/16-
9/16 9/16-3/4 9/16-3/4 5/8-3/4 3/4-1.0
Slider Lock Hold (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 87.1
Brass / Nickel 8.4 13.2 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Aluminum 8.4 8.8 13.2 13.2 15.4 15.4
Plastic 5.5 4 7.7 13.2 13.2 15.4
Coiled 4.4 4.4 11 13.2 15.4 15.4
Tab Pull-Off Strength (lbs., min) ASTM D2061;
68.1
Brass / Nickel 22 22 39.6 44 55 66
Aluminum 22 22 39.6 44 55 66
Plastic 22 22 39.6 39.6 44 66
Coiled 17.6 17.6 39.6 44 55 66
Tab Twist-Off Strength (in-lb, min) ASTM D2061;
52.1
Brass / Nickel 4 4 4 4 4 4
Aluminum 4 4 4 4 4 4
Plastic 4 4 4 4 4 4
Coiled 4 4 4 4 4 4
Operability (Open/Close) (lbf, max) ASTM D2062;
16
Brass / Nickel 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.8 1.8
Aluminum 0.7 0.8 1.1 1.5 1.8 1.8
Plastic 1.1 1.1 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.9
Coiled 1.1 0.9 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.9
Top Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.2
Brass / Nickel 15.4 17.6 22 28.6 33 35
Aluminum 15.4 17.6 22 22 33 35
Plastic 17.6 17.6 22 26.4 33 35
Coiled 15.4 17.6 26.4 28.6 28 35
Bottom Stop Strength (lbf, min) ASTM D2061; 22.5
Brass / Nickel 11 17.6 17.6 22 26.5 33
Aluminum 10 13 19.8 15.4 26.5 33
Plastic 11 11 19.8 22 30 37
Coiled 6.6 11 20 22 30 39.6
28 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics PROTOCOL-015 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Scope: This protocol covers nail polish, fake fingernails, fragrance, lotion, bath gel, make up, hair color, hair spray.
Submit: Approximately 9 - 12 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: Actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large enough to work with.
NOTE: In addition to the below testing, all vendors are responsible for meeting FDA requirements outlined in the Food, Drug &
Cosmetic Act (US) and the Health Canada requirements outlined in the Food and Drug Act (Canada).
LABELING
Cosmetic Ingredients and Labeling Review
FDA 21 CFR 701 &
740 Cosmetic Labeling
and FDA 21 CFR 700
and 73, 74 & 82 / US
FDA, Food Drug &
Cosmetics Regulations
(21 CFR 73, 74, 81,
82, 250, & 700 to
740) / Health Canada
Guidelines - Labeling
of Cosmetics
All colorants and ingredients of cosmetic products must comply with U.S.
Food and Drug Administration, Food Drug and Cosmetic Regulations.
Ingredients must be listed on all product using recognized names from the
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) system as found
in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook and in
accordance to the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist
Country of Origin Marking
Marking of Imported
Goods Memo D11-3-1
/ Country of Origin /
19 CFR 134.11 /
Marking of imported
goods order, C.R.C.,
c. 535 / Canada
Customs Tariff,
Marking of Imported
Goods Regulations,
SOR-94-10
Must Comply with Regulations. Rate as Data.
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined,
chemical analysis is required
29 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics (continued) PROTOCOL-015
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Analytical
Mercury
21 CFR 700.13 /
Cosmetic Regulations C.R.C., c. 869
Less than 1ppm mercury in cosmetics intended for use in any area other than around the eye or less than 65ppm mercury for cosmetics intended for use only in the area of the eye.
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
Total Heavy Metal Contents in Cosmetics
Canada Guidance on Heavy Metal
Impurities in Cosmetics
/ NHPD Compendium of
Monographs
Cosmetic products shall not have total heavy metal contents exceed the following limits:
Lead ≤ 10 ppm Arsenic ≤ 3 ppm
Cadmium ≤ 3 ppm Mercury ≤ 3 ppm
Antimony ≤ 3 ppm
Total Lead Content in Cosmetics and
Cosmetic Accessories
Alameda Superior Court, 01-032306, RG
07321854 and H217587 / EPA 3051A (modified) /
EPA 3050B (modified)
[Cosmetic and Cosmetic Accessories] All adult cosmetic and cosmetic accessories shall not exceed the following limit: a. Lip/mouth cosmetics shall not exceed 0.35 ppm total lead content. b. All other cosmetic items shall not exceed 0.5 ppm total lead content. Note: - Applicable to cosmetics, including but not limited to lipstick/liner/gloss, eye shadow/liner, facial powders, blush, mascara, pencils, make up creams/gels, foundation and nail polish. - Applicable to accessories, including but not limited to cosmetic brushes, blusher tools, applicators and mirrors. - Excluding products under the FDA definition, including but not limited to lotion, body wash, body tattoo, adhesive fake eyelash and eyelash glue.
Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings AOAC 974.01
(modified)
All accessible surface coatings in the as received state on the
item outside of the scope of CCPSA shall not contain lead or lead
components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009%
(90ppm) of the weight of the total content.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Component testing is allowed.
Composite up to 3 colors are allowed.
BBP/DBP/DEHP Content (applies to cosmetic
cases / bags)
CA Proposition 65
Cosmetic
Cases/Bags:
(CGC-10-497729 &
CGC-10-498981)
Accessible soft plastics, in the as received state, shall not contain
concentrations of more than 1000mg/kg (ppm) BBP, DBP or DEHP
individually.
Phthalates in temporary tattoos
Santa Clara Superior
Court 1-12-CV-
230462/Solvent
extraction, GC-MS LC-MS
analysis / CPSD-AN-
00108- MTTHD
Temporary Body Tattoos: Product shall not contain more than
0.1% (1000 ppm) of each DEHP, BBP and DBP. Labeling is not
allowed by the Consent Judgment. Reformulation of product is
required.
Note: Actual testing would be conducted on all accessible plastic
materials of the tattoo. Vendor is responsible for compliance of all
other materials.
USP 51 Preservative Effectiveness - doc
review USP <51>
Shall meet requirements per product type.
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
30 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Bath, Body, and Cosmetics (continued) PROTOCOL-015
USP 61 (Harmonized) - doc review USP <61> / PCPC
[CTFA (PCPC) Items]
Shall meet requirements per product type.
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
USP 62 (Harmonized) - doc review USP <62> / PCPC
[CTFA (PCPC) Items]
Shall meet requirements per product type.
In lieu of testing, documentation may be submitted if
dated within 1 year.
31 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Candles and Candle Holders PROTOCOL-016
Submit: approximately 4 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately. Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not large
enough to work with.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Candle - FPLA 16 CFR 501.7 The candles must be labeled with count and length or height in
inches to meet the requirements of FPLA.
Consumer Chemicals and Containers
Regulations SOR/2001-269
The manufacturer or importer must provide completed CCCR
Submission Requirements Form certifying compliance or non-
applicability with these requirements.
If document is not obtained after one business day and one email
attempt the submitted sample will be sent for outsource testing
with CAS and ingredient list for intended liquid.
Reject if no Form or incomplete Form is received.
Country of Origin
19 CFR 134.11
Canada Customs Tariff,
Marking of Imported
Goods Regulations,
SOR-94-10
Marking of Imported
Goods Memorandum
D11-3-1
Must Comply with Regulations
Labeling Review
Visual Assessment /
ASTM F2058
section 6.3 (modified)
/ ASTM F2601 section
5.4.3.1 (3) / Canadian
proposed candle
regulation section 3
Use/Care instructions and/or Warning/Cautionary labeling that are
clear and understandable shall be provided in English.
UPLR / FPLA / Consumer Packing and
Labeling Act and Regulations
NIST handbook 130 part
IV A Section 3, 5 & 6
16 CFR 500.4 /
16 CFR 500.5 /
16 CFR 500/ Consumer
Packing and Labeling Act
and Regulations
C.R.C.,c.417 section 6
Must Comply with Regulations
Flammability / Safety
Candle Holder – Flammability Test
Flame impingement shall be 5 minutes. Shall not crack or break
exposing a sharp point / edge or expose flame to the outside of
the holder. Shall not ignite or create hazardous conditions. Holder
damage (Non-hazardous) is acceptable.
Flammability of Solids
16 CFR 1500.3 (c) (6)
(vi) / 16 CFR 1500.44
(modified)
Shall not exceed the maximum allowable limit of no greater than
0.1 inches per second. All surfaces of each different material on
candleholders shall be tested for flammability of solids.
Modification = Test all surface of each material rather than test on
major axis only
Safety Requirements for Stability ASTM F2601-12
section 4.4 Shall not tip over when placed on a minimum 10 degree incline.
32 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Candles and Candle Holders (continued) PROTOCOL-016
Analytical
Lead Content in Glass and/or Metal Tea Light
Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative
Products
Alameda Superior
Court, HG-04-183355
/ NIOSH method
9100 (modified) / EPA
3050B (modified)
[Glass and / or Metal Decorative Mug, Tea Light Votives, Candle Holders and Home Decorative Products]
Product made with glass and metal shall comply the following
requirements:
Must meet (a) & (c), or (b) & (c).
a. The metal portions shall produce no more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, in Ghost WipeTM test,
or b. Each metal (such as solder and came) shall not exceed 0.1%
(1000 ppm) total lead content, and
c. If product has exterior decorations or markings, shall have no more than 5.0 micrograms of lead, using a Ghost WipeTM test
applied to all colored decorated exterior surface and metal portions.
Products exceed either the limits shall utilize a warning statement.
Please reference to image appendix for labeling requirement and
the warning statement.
Note:
- Applicable to products that are primarily made of glass and / or metal. It does not include wooden picture frame.
- Decorations include color on top of the base material.
Lead in Metal Wick - Metal-Cored Wicks 16 CFR
1500.17(a)(13)
The outer container or wrapper of candles with metal-cored wicks
(Manufactured or imported on or after Oct. 15, 2003) must be
labeled “Conforms to 16 CFR 1500.17(a)(13).”
Total Lead Content in Candle
Orange Superior
Court, 799222 / EPA
3050B (modified)
No lead core wick is allowed.
Total Lead Content in Surface Coatings AOAC 974.02
(modified)
All accessible surface coatings in the as received state shall not contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in
excess of 0.009% (90ppm) of the weight of the total content.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Component testing is allowed.
Compositing up to 3 like materials is allowed.
Toxicological Risk Assessment - doc review
Canada Consumer
Product Safety Act
(CCPSA) / Canada
Consumer Chemicals
and Containers
Regulations
(SOR/2001-269) Part
1 and 2
Product shall be evaluated for the potential to be an acute toxic, a
skin irritant, eye irritant or corrosive. Labeling review is not
included.
Toxicity Risk Assessment shall be conducted for the following
components:
All liquids, pastes, putties, gels and powders regardless of claim
Other materials bearing a "NON-TOXIC" claim on samples and/or
its packaging
In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted if dated
within 5 years.
33 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Eyewear PROTOCOL-017 Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Submit: Approximately 3 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing of each component separately.
Note: actual sample quantity required may be communicated separately by TESTING SERVICE PROVIDER if the samples submitted are not
large enough to work with.
LABELING
Labeling –
Spectacles Visual assessment
Report intended use or performance claims on product and/or packaging as data only.
Example:
"...lenses block [X]%UVB and [Y]%UVA."
Rate as data
PERFORMANCE
* ANSI Z80.3
Luminous
Transmittance – doc
ANSI Z80.3
[Required for eyewear with UV claim, only.]
Shall comply with luminous transmittance properties and traffic signal recognition
requirements for non-prescription sunglasses and fashion eyewear as specified based on
intended primary function: general purpose, cosmetic use, and special purpose (skiing,
climbing, beach, etc). It is the vendor’s responsibility for the conformity of this
requirement.
Report as DATA.
*Transmittance
properties for
sunglasses and
eyewear
ANSI Z80.3-2010 clause 4.6.1
to 4.6.3, 4.6.5, 4.7.3 to 4.7.4
and 4.8
Non-prescription sunglasses and fashion eyewear shall comply with the requirements.
*Impact resistance 21 CFR 801.410 / ANSI Z80.3-
2010 Section 4.2
5/8-inch (0.56 ounce) steel ball weighing is dropped from a height of 50 inches upon the
horizontal upper surface of the lens.
Lens shall not fracture, crack or release any material.
In lieu of testing, test report can be submitted – must be current within one
year.
Phthalates Content
CA Proposition 65
(CGC-10-497729 & CGC-10-
498981)
CPSC-CH-C1001.09.3
Product shall not contain more than 0.1% (1000 ppm) of each of DEHP, BBP and DBP in
the following materials:
PVC, soft plastic, vinyl, and synthetic leather substrates, decals and attachments are
included.
Applicable to all accessible components in the as received state.
Compositing of up to 3 materials is allowed.
34 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Eyewear (continued) PROTOCOL-017
*Total lead content
in substrate
materials
Consumer Product Safety
Improvement Act of 2008 /
CPSC-CH-E1001-08 / CPSC-
CH-E1002-08
Cite 16 CFR 1500. - 1501
All accessible substrates, before and after use and abuse testing, shall not contain lead in
excess of 0.01% (100ppm) of the weight of the total content.
• Component testing is not allowed. (Only finished product is allowed). • Compositing is not allowed
*Total lead content
in surface coatings
Consumer Product Safety
Improvement Act of 2008 / 16
CFR 1303 / AOAC 974.01
(modified) / CPSC-CH-E1003-
09
Cite 16 CFR 1500. - 1501
All accessible surface coatings, before and after use and abuse testing, shall not
contain lead or lead components in which the lead content is in excess of 0.009%
(90ppm) of the weight of the total content.
• Component testing is not allowed. (Only finished product is allowed). • Composite testing is only allowed if there is still not enough to complete testing on
individual colors, compositing is allowed for up to 3 colors. Based on CPSC SOP, will composite up to 3 colors. If any color in the composite exceeds
80% of the limit (72 ppm), based on the lowest weight component, individual colors will
be analyzed.
35 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Jewelry & Hair Accessories PROTOCOL-018
Scope: this protocol addresses jewelry, watches, hair accessories, key chains and charms and similar products.
Submit: approximately 15 – 20 finished products depending on size or amount necessary to proceed with full testing. The number of
samples that are required for testing varies. Note: The following is a general guideline. For more precise guidance, contact the lab prior to
submitting samples.
Evaluation Test Methods Requirements
Analytical
Nickel Spot Test
(Nickel in Metal Materials analytical testing is
required if Nickel Spot Test method result is
Inconclusive or Failed)
• Required on all maurices jewelry
product
PD CR 12471:2002
No detection - negative test result
Note: Applies to Sensitive Skin Claims Only.
Items covered include: components of earrings, necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, finger rings,wrist-watch cases, watch
straps and tighteners.
Nickel in Metal Materials EN 1811:2011 / EN
12472:2005+A1:2009
a. Post assemblies for jewelry which are inserted into pierced ears and other pierced parts of the human body shall not exceed 0.11
µg/cm2/week.
b. All other jewelry intended to come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin shall not exceed 0.28 µg/cm2/week.
Note: Applies to Sensitive Skin Claims Only.
Items covered include: components of earrings, necklaces, bracelets, chains, anklets, finger rings,wrist-watch cases, watch
straps and tighteners.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
Total Lead Content in Body Piercing Jewelry
California Law, Health
and Safety Codes
section 25214.1-
25214.4.2 / EPA
3050B (modified) /
EPA 3051A (modified)
/ EPA 3052 (modified)
Product shall be made of one of the following materials.
Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material bill for material identification.
a. Surgical implant stainless steel
b. Surgical implant grades of titanium c. Niobium (Nb)
d. Solid 14 karat or higher white or yellow nickel-free gold e. Solid platinum
f. Dense low porosity plastic (e.g., Tygon or PTFE) with no intentionally added (less than 200 ppm) lead
Products must comply with the material and lead requirements.
Note: - Accessible materials should be tested.
- For component test together with CPSIA, composite metals and
up to 3 like materials is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result here for
compliance.
Total cadmium content
Alameda Superior
Court, RG-10-
514803/California
Law, Health and
Safety Codes section
25214.1-
25214.4.2/EPA 3050B
modified / EPA 3051A
modified / EPA3052
modified / CPSD-AN-
00108-MTHD
Product shall not exceed 75 ppm (0.0075%) total cadmium content.
Note: -Accessible materials should be tested.
-Actual testing will be conducted on all substrates, plasticizer print and scrapable surface coatings.
-Composite testing of metals and up to 3 components -Textile & natural material are exempt from testing.
Report actual results or include data table within report.
36 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Jewelry & Hair Accessories (continued) PROTOCOL-018
Total Lead Content in Jewelry
Alameda Superior
Court, RG 10-545680
and RG 10-545687 /
EPA 3050B (modified)
/ EPA 3051A
(modified) / EPA 3052
(modified)
Components shall comply with the following limits (a) and (b):
a. Paints and surface coatings shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009%)
total lead content.
b. Substrates shall not exceed 200 ppm (0.020%) total lead
content.
Recommend all products shall provide documentation or material
bill for material identification.
Products must comply with the lead requirements.
Note:
- Including anklets, arm cuffs, bracelets, charms, brooches, chains,
crowns, cuff links, watches (excluding the timepiece itself if
removable), decorated hair accessories, earrings, necklaces, pins,
rings; similar clothing or shoe ornaments which are detachable;
and body piercing jewelry or any bead, chain, link, pendant, or
other component of such an ornament.
- Accessible materials should be tested.
- For component test together with CPSIA, composite metals and
up to 3 colors / like materials is allowed, transfer the CPSIA result
here for compliance
- Non-suspect materials, except leather, as defined by the
Consumer Products Safety Commission in 16 CFR 1500.91 (d) and
(e) will not be tested. Vendor is responsible for compliance of
these materials.
All New Material Label – filled, quilted, padded or
stuffed items only – maurices product only
Provincial Regulations of
Ontario, Manitoba, &
Quebec for Stuffed &
Upholstered Goods
Check for presence of all new material label containing registration number
Visual assessment to confirm content. IF content cannot be determined,
chemical analysis is required
37 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
ADULT CHECK LIST
Test Parameter
Woven-
Fabric
Testing
Knit-
Fabric
Testing
Woven-
Garment
Testing
Knit-
Garment
Testing
Intimate
Apparel &
Sleepwear
Swimwear,
Cover-ups Sweaters Denim
Leather &
Suede
Fiber Content – single fibers & all
blends
(for garments, only perform if not done on fabric stage)
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Weight– all colors
(for garments, only perform if not
done on fabric stage)
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Dimensional Stability to Home
Laundering (3x) or Dimensional
Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Appearance Evaluation after Home
Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Thread Count
Yarn Size
Skewness in Fabric/Garment Twist ● ● ● ● ● ●
Tensile Strength ● ●
Tear Strength ● ●
Bursting Strength ●
Seam Strength/Seam Slippage ● ● ● ● ● ●
Seam Stretchability ● ● ● •
Stretch & recovery # # # # # #
Hook & eye Tension # #
pH ● ●
Water Resistance # #
Spray Test # #
Drying Rate # # #
Vertical Wicking # # #
Air Permeability #
Colorfastness to Home Laundering
(3x) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
38 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Test Parameter
Woven-
Fabric
Testing
Knit-
Fabric
Testing
Woven-
Garment
Testing
Knit-
Garment
Testing
Intimate
Apparel &
Sleepwear
Swimwear,
Cover-ups Sweaters Denim
Leather &
Suede
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle)
– all colors (if dry clean) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● • • ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only)
– all colors ● ●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-
Chlorine Bleach – all colors ● ● # # ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear
only) – all colors ●
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool
Water – all colors (swimwear only) ●
Colorfastness to Perspiration (Linings
Only) # # ● ●
Burnt Gas ●
Strap Attachment Strength ● ●
ICI Pilling ●
Random Tumble Pilling ● ●
Zipper Identification ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
General Wearing Apparel Flammability
(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors ● ●
● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface
Coatings – all colors # # # # # # # # #
Total Lead Content in Substrate
Material– all colors # # # # # # # # #
Formaldehyde ● ●
+Doc Review for Species ●
All New Material Label – filled, quilted,
padded or stuffed items, only
maurices product only.
● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Metallic Fiber Content Duty
Identification
#
39 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
ADULT ADDITIONAL COLOR CHECKLIST
Test Parameter Fabric Garment Sweaters Denim Swimwear Socks Scarves
Weight– all colors ● ● ● ● ●
General Wearing Apparel Flammability
(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Dimensional Stability to Home
Laundering (3x) or Dimensional
Stability to Dry-cleaning (1x) – all colors
● ● ● ● ● ●
Appearance Evaluation after Home
Laundering/Dry-cleaning– all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Home Laundering
(3x) – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning (1cycle)
– all colors (if dry clean) ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Crocking – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-
Chlorine Bleach – all colors ● ● ● ● ● ●
pH ●
Colorfastness to Light (swimwear only)
– all colors #
●
Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear
only) – all colors #
●
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool
Water – all colors (swimwear only) #
●
All New Material Label – filled, quilted,
padded or stuffed items, only
maurices product only.
● ● ● ● ● ●
40 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
ADULT ACCESSORIES CHECK LIST
Test Parameter
Socks, Tights,
Legwarmers,
Armwarmers
Scarves,
Hats, Gloves,
Cold Weather
Scarves
Belts,
Travel
Bags,
Handba
gs
Footwear Zippers
Jewelry,
Hair
Accessories
Eyewear
Bath, Body
&
Cosmetics
Candles &
Candle Holders
Fiber Content – single fibers & all
blends ● ●
Dimensional Stability to Home
Laundering (3x) all colors ● ●
Appearance Evaluation after Home
Laundering– all colors ● ●
Vertical Wicking #
Colorfastness to Home Laundering
(3x) – all colors ●
Colorfastness to Crocking – ● ● ● ●
Colorfastness to Perspiration #
Colorfastness to Chlorine & Non-
Chlorine Bleach – all colors ●
Seam Strength ●
Slippers
Strap Attachment Strength ●
Heel Attachment ●
Heel Impact ●
Toplift-Heel Strength ●
Flex Cracking ●
Sole Bond Peeling ●
Strap/Buckle Attachment ●
Ornament Attachment ●
Slip Resistance ●
Strap Pull Out ●
Construction Quality Assessment ●
Sharp Points / Edges ●
Zipper Strength ●
Labeling ● ●
41 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Test Parameter
Socks, Tights,
Legwarmers,
Armwarmers
Scarves,
Hats, Gloves,
Cold Weather
Scarves
Belts,
Travel
Bags,
Handba
gs
Footwear Zippers
Jewelry,
Hair
Accessories
Eyewear
Bath, Body
&
Cosmetics
Candles &
Candle Holders
Special Markings
General Wearing Apparel Flammability
(on-exempt fabrics) – all colors ● ●
Total Lead Content in Paint / Surface
Coatings – all colors # # # # # # # # #
Total Lead Content in Substrate
Material– all colors # # # # # #
#
#
#
Cadmium content #
Phthalates # # # # # #
Nickel
Nickel Spot – required on all maurices
jewelry product
#
●maurices
jewelry
Mercury #
Total Heavy Metals in Cosmetics #
Total Lead in Cosmetics #
Candle FPLA ●
Consumer Chemicals & Container
Regulations
●
COO ●
Candle Holder Flammability ●
Flammability of Solids ●
Safety Requirements for Stability ●
Lead Content in Glass, Metal Tea Light
Votive, Candle Holders & Home
Decorative Products
#
Total Lead Content in Candle #
Lead in Metal Wick #
Toxicological Risk Assessment #
Impact Resistance ●
Labeling-Spectacles •
42 Ascena Adult’s Product Testing Manual Version 5.0 August 2016
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This Manual contains information that is proprietary and confidential, and is intended for use solely by Ascena Retail Group vendors for the production of The Company’s brand merchandise. It may not be used for any other purpose. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or other use of the information contained herein is STRICTLY PROHIBITED. 2013 Ascena Retail Group.
Test Parameter
Socks, Tights,
Legwarmers,
Armwarmers
Scarves,
Hats, Gloves,
Cold Weather
Scarves
Belts,
Travel
Bags,
Handba
gs
Footwear Zippers
Jewelry,
Hair
Accessories
Eyewear
Bath, Body
&
Cosmetics
Candles &
Candle Holders
ANSI Z80.3 Luminous Transmittance
doc review
•
Transmittance properties for
sunglasses and eyewear
a •
All New Material Label – filled, quilted,
padded or stuffed items, only
maurices product only.
• • • • •
•
● = test is required #= as applicable