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Assembling a 14th Century Soft Kit THL Sarai Tindall Sogliano

sarai.tindall@gmail.com

Who, Where, When

1) Decide on a time range within the 14th century

a) Early 1300-1340

b) Mid 1340-1370

c) Late 1370-1400

2) Decide on a country (I am focusing on Western Europe for this class)

a) British Isles (England, Scotland, Wales, & Ireland)

b) France

c) Germany

d) Italy

e) Spain

3) Decide on a social class

a) Serving class (This is more like outdoor servants, grooms, gardeners, etc.)

b) Craftsmen/women, Yoemen (indoor servants)

c) Merchants (Income level can vary wildly based on country and what they are

selling. Including import merchants, Full Guild members, second hand clothing

sellers, etc.)

d) Low nobility (In an SCA context this is anyone under a peerage.)

e) High nobility (In an SCA context this is anyone with a peerage.)

What

1) Men’s (Male) clothing

a) Shirt/Smock

b) Braies

c) Hosen/Calze (Split hosen were used by the upper and lower classes until the late

14th-century when joined hosen started appearing on images of upper class men.)

d) Cotehardie/Pourpoint/Zuparello/Doublet/Vestito (Main body garment.)

e) Cote/Houppelande/Pellanda (Over garment, like a modern coat.)

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2) Women’s (Female) clothing

a) Shift/Smock/Chemise/Camica

b) Hosen/Calze (Typically assumed to be about knee height, but there is limited

visual evidence.)

c) Gown/Cotehardie/Vestito/Gonnella (Sometimes also referred to as a Gothic Fitted

Dress (GFD) in modern writings as it can often be used for bust support.)

d) Over gown/Cote/Houppelande/Pellanda/Cipriana/Guarnacca (Over garment, like

a modern coat.)

3) Accessories

a) Hoods

b) Hats

c) Caps/Coifs

d) Veils/Whimples

e) Gloves

f) Belts

g) Bags

h) Shoes

i) Pattens

j) Jewelry

How:

Resource Links:

https://luttrellpsalter.wordpress.com/ (The research behind the creation of a short film featuring

scenes from the Luttrell Psalter.)

http://effigiesandbrasses.com/ (Searchable database of Effigies from Western Europe)

http://manuscriptminiatures.com/ (Searchable database of Manuscript Images from Western

Europe)

https://clothingthepast.wordpress.com/ (mostly Italian and English styles)

http://www.neulakko.net/ (mostly Northern Europe/Scandinavia, publishes in both Finnish and

English)

http://cottesimple.com/ (mostly French and English styles)

http://www.morgandonner.com/ (mostly French and English styles)

http://rosaliegilbert.com/ (mostly English styles)

http://tacuinummedievale.blogspot.com/ (Italian styles, publishes in both Italian and English)

https://edythmiller.blogspot.com/ (mostly French and 15th century styles, but some late 14th as

well)

La Belle Compagnie (Hundred Years War era English reenactment group located in the mid-

atlantic states of the USA, search on Facebook for photos.)

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Places to buy things:

https://revivalclothing.com/ (Accessories & Clothing)

http://www.historicenterprises.com/ (Accessories, Clothing, Camp Supplies, etc.)

https://www.allbeststuff.com/Leather-Products/medieval-leather-footwear (Intro level footwear)

https://boots-by-bohemond.myshopify.com/collections/medieval-footwear (Footwear)

https://www.billyandcharlie.com/ (Buckles, Belt Ends, Pins, Rings, etc., in Pewter.)

https://www.facebook.com/GauklerMedievalWares/ (Buckles, Belt Ends, Pins, Rings, etc., in

brass, silver, or gold)

http://www.thorthorshammer.com (Buckles, Belt Ends, Pins, etc., in brass.)

https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/ (Fabrics, Silk Ribbon, and sewing notions)

https://fabrics-store.com/ (Linen fabric)

https://www.denverfabrics.com/ (Fabrics)

https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/ (Fabrics)

Books:

Shoes and Pattens (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), Boydell Press, (May 16,

2013), ISBN-10: 1843832380, ISBN-13: 978-1843832386

Textiles and Clothing, c.1150-1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), Boydell

Press; New edition edition (December 21, 2012), ISBN-10: 1843832399, ISBN-13: 978-

1843832393

Dress Accessories, c. 1150- c. 1450 (Medieval Finds from Excavations in London), Boydell

Press; New Ed edition (January 17, 2013), ISBN-10: 9781843833512, ISBN-13: 978-

1843833512

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, 2nd Edition: Common Garments 1100-1480, Costume and

Fashion Pr; 2nd edition (May 30, 2015), ISBN-10: 0896762955, ISBN-13: 978-0896762954

Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns, Aarhus University Press

(December 15, 2010), ISBN-10: 8779342981, ISBN-13: 978-8779342989 (14th Century

Greenland)

Woven into the Earth: Textile finds in Norse Greenland, Aarhus University Press (December 31,

2004), ISBN-10: 8772889357, ISBN-13: 978-8772889351

Purses in Pieces: Archaeological Finds of Late Medieval and 16th Century Leather Purses,

Pouches, Bags and Cases in the Netherlands, SPA Uitgevers; 2 edition (June 30, 2009), ISBN-

10: 9089320148, ISBN-13: 978-9089320148

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Manuscripts and Frescos:

Romance of Alexander, Polo, Marco, Bodleian Library MS. Bodlien 264, c1338–1410. https://digital.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/inquire/p/2d7945ce-b71e-41c6-ad1f-8af6b92f020f Tacuinum Sanitatis. Biblioteque nationale de France, Nouvelle acquisition latine 1673. Origin, Pavia or Milan, Lombardy, N. Italy, by Giovannino de Grassi's workshop. Circa, 1390-1400. http://mandragore.bnf.fr/jsp/imprimerNoticeMan.jsp?id=2278&numero=2&nbPages=2 Tacuinum Sanitatis. Osterreichische Nationalbibliothek, COD.ser.nov.2644. Zahrāwī, Ḫalaf Ibn-Abbās az, 936-1009 [Suspected Author], Ambras Castle Innsbruck [previous owner], Cerruti Family [previous owner], Georg, 1360-1419 [previous owner]. Origin, Upper Italy (Verona?), 1380-1399. http://data.onb.ac.at/rec/AC14244778 (Another source suggests that this manuscript is also from the Giovannino de Grassi workshop rather than Verona. (Harry S. Paris, Marie-Christine Daunay, Jules Janick; The Cucurbitaceae and Solanaceae illustrated in medieval manuscripts known as the Tacuinum Sanitatis, Annals of Botany, Volume 103, Issue 8, 1 June 2009, Pages 1187–1205, https://doi.org/10.1093/aob/mcp055)) Tacuinum Sanitatis. Biblioteca Casanatense, Ms. 4182. Origin, Lombardy region, N. Italy, by Giovannino de Grassi's workshop. 1390-1400. Images available online through Wikimedia Commons, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Tacuinum_sanitatis_-_Casanatense_4182 Tacuinum Sanitatis. Bibliothèque de l'Université de Liège, Ms. 1041. Ibn Buṭlān, Al-muẖtār Ibn Al-ḥasan Ibn'abdūn Ibn Sa'dūn; From Grassi, Giovannino [entourage of]. Origin, Italy, Veneto region of Italy. 1380-1400. https://donum.uliege.be/handle/2268.1/1525

The Luttrell Psalter, British Library Add MS 42130, c1325-35. Pourpoint of Saint Charles de Blois, Musée des Tissus, c. 1360, http://www.mtmad.fr/fr/pages/topnavigation/musees_et_collections/mt_les_collections/rechercher_une_oeuvre/mt-rechercher-oeuvre.aspx

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Early 14th Century English Styles

The Luttrell Psalter, c1325-35, British Library Add MS 42130, f

The Luttrell Psalter, c1325-35, British Library Add MS 42130, f

Early 14th century working class clothes appropriate for most Western European countries. (All garments made by Sgt. Roberto some Spanish).

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The Luttrell Psalter, c1325-35, British Library Add MS 42130, f139r.

The Luttrell Psalter, c1325-35, British Library Add MS 42130, f

Early to mid 14th century working and middle class English clothing. Each garment was made by the person wearing it (L-R Lady Cassandra Martel, Lady Avelyn atte Wode, and Lady Kinna Blackheath).

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Early-Mid 14th Century Italian Styles

Fresco by Paolo Veneziano 1333-1358 Fresco, Giottino Pieta di San Remigio, by

Uffizien Florenz, c. 1360-65

Mid 14th Century French & Spanish Styles

Romance of Alexander, Polo, Marco, Bodleian Library MS. Bodl. 264,

c1338–1410, f109v

Garment created based on images from the Romance of Alexander

by Master Derian la Breton.

Mid 14th century middle class Spanish men’s cotehardie (made by Sgt. Roberto some Spanish).

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Late 14th century Italian Styles

Tacuinum Sanitatis. BnF, Nouvelle

acquisition latine 1673, fol. 31, Récolte du

persil

Tacuinum Sanitatis. BnF,

Nouvelle acquisition latine 1673,

fol. 79, Marchand de poisson salé

Middle class gown based

on the images from the

Tacuinum Sanitatis.

Tacuinum Sanitatis. Osterreichische Nationalbibliothek, COD.ser.nov.2644. Slide

213.

Tacuinum Sanitatis. BnF, Nouvelle acquisition latine

1673, fol. 94v. c. 1390-1400

Middle class men’s clothing based on those seen in the

Tacuinum Sanitatis.

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Tacuinum Sanitatis, ÖNB collection of manuscripts and ancient prints, Northern Italy (Verona?), end of the 14th century 1380-

1399, Cod. Ser. n. 2644 Han, Scan 18, Collecting Pomegranates

Upper class women's gown based on images from the Tacuinum Sanitatis.

Tacuinum Sanitatis. Osterreichische Nationalbibliothek,

COD.ser.nov.2644. Slide 109.

Upper class men’s clothing based on images from the Tacuinum Sanitatis. (Pattern by me, cote sewn by

Lady Kinna Blackheath).

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Pourpoints/Zuparellos/Doublets - Late 14th Century French and Italian

Crucifixion, Oratorio de Santo Stefano, Lombardy, Italy, c. late 14th-century fresco.

Pourpoint of Saint Charles de Blois, Musée des Tissus, c. 1360.

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Padded pourpoints made in the style of the Charles de Blois by me. (L-R Count William of Fairhaven and His Highness Sir Seto Gesshuko.)

Unpadded Zuparellos made by the wearers. (L-R Sgt. Joan della Torre & Lord Guillermo)

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Colours: As can be seen from this photo taken at the Schützenfest Hinterweidenthal, an international multi-group private 15th century meet-up in Germany, many colors are

achievable with natural dyes and were worn during the middle ages. So have fun and wear your favorite colours!