assignment on garment manufacturing - quality control.pdf

Table of Contains

Name of Topic Page No

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Quality Control Aspects Of Garment Exports

Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality

increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds

up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into

consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The

perceived quality of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which

together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer.

Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts -sales

service, delivery, pricing, etc are essentials for any garment exporter.

For every industry or business, to get increased sales and better name

amongst consumers and fellow companies it is important to maintain a level

of quality. Especially for the businesses engaged in export business has to

sustain a high level of quality to ensure better business globally. Generally

quality control standards for export are set strictly, as this business is also

holds the prestige of the country, whose company is doing the export. Export

houses earn foreign exchange for the country, so it becomes mandatory to

have good quality control of their products. In the garment industry quality

control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to

the stage of final finished garment. For textile and apparel industry product

quality is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibres, yarns, fabric

construction, color fastness, surface designs and the final finished garment

products. However quality expectations for export are related to the type of

customer segments and the retail outlets.

There are a number of factors on which quality fitness of garment industry is

based such as - performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality

of the garment. Quality needs to be defined in terms of a particular

framework of cost. The national regulatory quality certification and

international quality programmers like ISO 9000 series lay down the broad

quality parameters based on which companies maintain the export quality in

the garment and apparel industry. Here some of main fabric properties that

are taken into consideration for garment manufacturing for export basis:

- Overall look of the garment.

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- Right formation of the garment.

- Feel and fall of the garment.

- Physical properties.

- Color fastness of the garment.

- Finishing properties

- Presentation of the final produced garment.

Sourcing of Fabrics

There are certain problems that could be faced by garment manufacturers

when sourcing for certain fabrics, so precautions should be taken for it

beforehand to minimize the problems. The garment exporters source cotton

fabrics mainly from handloom sectors, power looms and mills. Each of these

sectors presents their own unique set of problems to the garment exporters.

Sourcing cotton from handloom sectors might present some set of problems

like color variation, missing ends and picks, irregular weaves and unreliable

supplies. However, the handloom sector is significant source of heavier cotton.

Common problems faced in power loom cotton sourcing are broken ends and

reed marks, thick and thin places, difference in width and massive variation in

costing. The major problem in mill-made fabric sourcing is to meet huge

demands from the mills. Fabrics have to be ordered well in advance in mills

and the long time taken for producing the fabric is a matter of concern for

garment exporters. Mills generally hesitate to take small orders which pose a

problem for small scale exporters.

It is not that sourcing problem which only confined to cotton fabrics, but

also to other fabrics as well. In silk garment industry there are some sorts of

problems faced by silk garment exporters. Some of the problems that could

be faced by silk garment exporters are as follows:

. Shortage of imported silk yarns in the quantities required, as a result

delivery is delayed.

. Silk material is very vulnerable to stains during manufacturing process as

well as stocking, staining results in rejection so a lot of care has to taken

during these procedures.

. Roll length of the silk yarn is often insufficient.

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. Color fastness of dyed silk material is sometimes not satisfactory.

. There are also chances of warp breakage.

Basic Thumb Rules for Garment Exporters

For a garment exporter there are many strategies and rules that are required

to be followed to achieve good business. The fabric quality, product quality,

delivery, price, packaging and presentation are some of the many aspects that

need to be taken care of in garment export business. Some rules that are

advisable for garment exporters are listed below:

- Quality has to be taken care by the exporter, excuses are not

entertained in international market for negligence for low quality

garments, new or existing exporters for both it is mandatory to use

design, technology and quality as major up gradation tools.

- Apart from superior quality of the garment, its pricing, packaging,

delivery, etc has to be also taken care of.

- The garment shown in the catalogue should match with the final

garment delivered.

- It is important to perform according to the promises given to the

buyer, or else it creates very bad impression and results in loss of

business and reputation.

- In international market, quality reassurance is required at every point.

- Proper documentation and high standard labels on the garment are

also important aspects as these things also create good impression.

- Timely delivery of garments is as important as its quality.

- If your competitor has the better quality of garment in same pricing,

it is better to also enhance your garment quality.

- Before entering into international market, garment exporters have to

carefully frame out the quality standards, or else if anything goes

wrong it could harm the organization. And after that strictly follow it.

- The garment quality should match the samples shown during taking

the orders.

- The garment exporters should know to negotiate a premium price

after quality assurance is done.

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Quality is a multi-dimensional aspect. There are many aspects of quality based

on which the garment exporters are supposed to work.

- Quality of the production.

- Quality of the design of the garment.

- Purchasing functions' quality should also be maintained.

- Quality of final inspection should be superior.

- Quality of the sales has to be also maintained.

- Quality of marketing of the final product is also important as the

quality of the garment itself.

See to it that......

There are certain quality related problems in garment manufacturing that

should not be overlooked:

Sewing defects - Like open seams, wrong stitching techniques used, same color

garment, but usage of different color threads on the garment, miss out of

stitches in between, creasing of the garment, thread tension and raw edges

are some sewing defects that could occur so should be taken care of.

Color effects - Color defects that could occur are - difference of the color of

final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used are of wrong

color combination and mismatching of dye amongst the pieces.

Sizing defects - Wrong gradation of sizes, difference in measurement of a

garment part from other, for example- sleeves of 'XL' size but body of 'L'

size. Such defects do not occur has to be seen too.

Garment defects - During manufacturing process defects could occur like -

faulty zippers, irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button

holes, uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colors.

Conclusion

Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality

increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds

up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into

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consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. The

perceived quality of a garment is the result of a number of aspects, which

together help achieve the desired level of satisfaction for the customer.

Therefore quality control in terms of garment, pre-sales service, posts sales

service, delivery; pricing, etc are essentials for any garment exporter.

Necessity Of Quality Control On Garment

There are main three factors for our garment sector. They are as follows:

I) Price

II) Lead-time

III) Quality

From those we cannot control price and lead time. But we can control one

thing “Quality”. If we make high quality product then we may have a chance

to increase the price, and expend the lead-time from buyer. Quality is the

key to survive in this high competitive world market. That is why Quality is

important.

Quality Control

QC refers to the measures that must be included during each assay run to

verify that the test is working properly.

Quality Assurance

QA is defined as the overall program that ensures that the final results

reported by the laboratory are correct.

“The aim of quality control is simply to ensure that the results generated by

the test are correct. However, quality assurance is concerned with much

more: that the right test is carried out on the right specimen, and that the

right result and right interpretation is delivered to the right person at the

right time”

Total Quality Management (TQM)

An integrated effort designed to improve quality performance at every level

of the organization. Quality in each and every section of an organization both in

product and service is called Total Quality Management.

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Factory Detail

Name of the factory : Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd.

A Sister Concern of Viyellatex Group of Industries.

Location : Borobari, Gazipur.

Establishment : 1998

Basic products : Shirt & Blouse

Product Category : Men’s dress, casual shirt, ladies blouse, school wear

& Fashion wear.

Building Structure : Six (6) storied

Working areas : 250,000 sqf.

Production : 600,000 Pecs per month.

- Supposed by their washing, printing, and embroidery section.

- One stop service for all trims and accessories except cartooning.

Interfab Shirt manufacturing Ltd. is an export oriented oven shirts garments

factory. Now it has 30 production lines. It supplies to the world’s famous brand

retailers like Marks & Spencer, PVH, Tesco, TU, Adams, and H&M etc.

This factory has fully automated cutting section supported by Gerber with multi

work station Computer Aided Design (CAD), multi spreader and leaser guided cutter.

Around 1000 oil-free stitch programmable Japanese sewing machines with various

type fusing machines and auxiliary facilities are installed there for the purpose of full

non- iron shirt production. Conveyor system with 24 Vacuum Tables and 26

automatic Folding Tables are also installed there

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Present working Status

Management Staff : 58

Non-Management Staff : 280

Workers : 2412

Total Manpower : 2750

Yearly Turn over

2000-2001 : 3.2 million

2001-2002 : 4.05 million

2002-2003 : 5.75 million

2003-2004 : 7.00 million

2004-2005 : 8.93 million

2005-2006 : 9.11 million

2006-2007 : 14.00 million

2007-2008 : 17.5 million

2008-2009 : 20.7 million

2009-2010 (Projected) : 24.00 million

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Overview of Factory

- Designed as a State of art Readymade Garments factory.

- Ensure productive under ethical, legal and humane condition.

- High professional and experienced work force.

- Having very strong sourcing capabilities both local and external.

Values of the factory

- Their dreams inspire them.

- Their plans drive them.

- Their customers make them thrive.

- Their team is buyer.

- Their innovation energizes them.

- Their standards keep rising.

Strength of the factory

- They are compliance with GSP, ETI, BSCI & local law.

- On time delivery on quality garments.

- Low rate of migration.

- Happy working environment.

Technological Initiatives

- Their entire business is being arranged by world’s renowned ERP

solution SAP.

- They are using Fast React software for their production planning.

- They are using GSD for workout the SMV of all articles.

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Organogram of Quality Control of Factory

They have 30 sewing line every line have in-line quality inspector and end-line

inspector.

Major Fateh-UL-Islam, Psc(Retd.) Chief Operating Officer

Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd

QC Manager

Quality Controller

Quality Inspector

Store & Sample

Quality Controller

Quality Inspector

Pattern, Marker &

Cutting

Quality Controller

Quality Inspector

Sewing

In-Line Quality Inspector

End-Line Inspector

Quality Controller

Quality Inspector

Finishing

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Buyers of Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd

Byuer Name Logo

Marks & Spencer

S. Oliver

PVH

G-STAR

PUMA

E-SPRIT

ITO YOKADO

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Section wise quality control of Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd

To insure quality of the product, quality control personal check each and

every different section of the factory.

1. Store:

Every material comes in the store first. It makes store very important in

quality control. In store the factory quality people check inventory, fabric

quality, the correct fabric is imported or not, the color, other material,

trims and accessories. The inspection team can perform a visual inspection of

products as available at the beginning of the production cycle against a client's

instructions and Purchase Order specifications. The "Initial Production Check"

when combined with a "Final Random Inspection" and any other on-line

production checks, helps in taking corrective actions at an early stage of

production cycle. The inspection team will send out intermediary reports to

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the client and keep them informed about the production progress relative to

the delivery terms.

Product development and approval

We ask factories to develop each fabric, each garment and each item before

starting a bulk production run to make sure that the supplier masters all

aspects of the production for a specific item. All quality aspects have to be

approved: shrinkage, gsm, M/m defaults, measures, look, pH, colorfastness,

pilling,…

Approving all accessories ensures that the whole consignment will not be

delayed because of failure to supply one accessory -> sewing thread, labels,

buttons, zip, boxes, shipping notice, polybags, sealing tape,…

Yarn

Yarn is checked upon delivery. We

check the report about the quality of

the raw material delivered with the

yarn. This report tell us mainly the

staple length of the raw material

fibres, the micronaire (diameter of

fibres), shape of fibres,...the count of

the yarn, its contamination-free

performance, evenness of the yarn

(thick & thin places, neps…),

roughness, elongation performance.

Weaving

At the knitting and weaving stage, we can already obtain a fair idea about

finished fabric: gsm, fabric appearance, fabric composition, density (number of

ctheirse per cm or inch) even if we know that the dyeing process will have a

strong impact on all these parameters. Other tests consist of removing any

knitting defects.

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Dyeing

Fabric is washed, bleached, dyed, put

through a calendering machine and a bath

of softener or other kind of bath to give

specific characteristics to the fabric

(ignifuge, bacteria free, …) compacted and

dried. This process has a strong impact on

the shrinkage of the fabric, its softness,

resistance and its pH (important for the

skin). Before sending the fabric for

cutting, we check and approve the most

important aspects at this stage: constant

color matching based on their standard but also with previous productions.

For this we use light boxes and the SPM. Other crucial aspects to be checked

are pilling and colorfastness.

CMT

At that making stage we start the garment production as such. Here, after

24 htheirs of fabric relaxation (to reduce the risk of shrinkage, twist or

skewage), we cut, stitch, trim, iron, fold and pack the garments. Each of

these steps has an influence on various

quality aspects such as shrinkage, spots,

measurements, general aspect of the

garment. At the end of sewing lines,

each garment is individually checked. Main

quality aspects here are: measurements,

the design, cut and look of the whole

garment (we also check the patterns

used by the workers to cut the fabric

parts) Major/minor defaults (holes,

spots, threads,..), garment accessories

(button, zip, eyelet, stoppers, cords,

stud,…) have been checked upon delivery

and is now checked again once on the garment.

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Accessories

The difference can be located in terms of certain details. The look, the

design, the technical performance of the accessories that we use for their

garments are of utmost importance. The resistance of a zip, the practical

nature of a button and luminosity of high-visibility strips… this is what makes

their garments really theirs.

Sewing threads

Specification no: date:

Needle thread for o/lock, cover seams and L/S tabbing and finishing

Fiber

Structure

Designation

Shade

Other requirements

Color fastness

Bobbin thread for lockstitch

Same as the needle thread

Tapes Specification

Location

Width

Structure

Shade

Color fastness

Zips Specification no

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Location

Length

Tapes

Shade

Color fastness

Stability

Other requirement

They do the shade variation of the fabric in here. They have lots of space in

store. They have fixed a rack for a buyer. They never put the fabric of buyer

to other’s rack.

Materials are tested from the store before using. In here different materials

are gone through different tests. Like the tearing test of fabric, breaking

test of button etc.

Process specification – example fabric

References spec no

Fabric description

Product specification nos. relating

Specification no date

Machine gauge

dam feeders

Speed

Width roll length finished:

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Min. useable roll weight finished:

Doffing revs:

Doffing time

Technical manufacturing requirements

Stitch length ground

Composition fabric ground

(Off m/c) inlay

Width (off m/c)

Finishing requirements

Processes

Finished fabric parameters

C/3cm W/3cm wt/sq.m

Width overall

Process specification - example

Make-up order

References spec no

Make-up order for

Specification no

Product specification no. relating: -

Manufacturing requirement

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Operation Seam Spec. Ref. Extras/seam finish

Process specification - example

Seam specification

References spec no

Specification for

Specification ref. no: date

Make-up order nos.:

Sewing threads

Manufacturing requirements

Stitch

Bight s/5cm

Run-in

Needle

Tension

Fabric Examination Specification

For examination to be a success it is vital that the examiner has an

examination specification. This should include items along the lines of the

following:-

Length

Width

Weight

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Incorrect colors

Incorrect pattern

Bow and Skew

Number of parts

Fault rate

Dye listing or tilt

Stains and marks

They are fully equipped Testing Lab accredited by M&S and PUMA. They use

4 Point system for inspecting fabric.

Inspection of fabric

Fabric Defect

Askewed or Bias : condition where filling yarns are not square with warp yarns

on woven fabrics or where ctheirses are not square with wale lines on knits.

Back Fabric Seam Impression : backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric

being printed. If there is a joining seam in the backing fabric, an impression

will result on printed fabric.

Barre : occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed into machine.

Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.

Birdseye : caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning needle. Usually

two small distorted stitches, side by side. This term should not be confused

with birdseye fabric which is in fact created intentionally.

Bowing : Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien in an arc across

fabric width: in knits the ctheirse lines lie in an arc across width of goods.

Critical on stripes or patterns and not as critical on solid color fabrics.

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Broken Color Pattern : Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on frame.

Color Out : the result of color running low in reservoir on printing machine.

Color Smear : The result of color being smeared during printing.

Crease Mark : differs from crease streak in that streak will probably appear

for an entire roll. Crease mark appears where creases are caused by fabric

folds in the finishing process. On napped fabric, final pressing may not be

able to restore fabric or original condition. Often discoloration is a problem.

Crease Streak : Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased fabric passing

through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.

Drop Stitches : results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will appear as

holes or missing stitches.

Dye Streak In Printing : Results from a damaged doctor blade or a blade not

cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the operator notices the

problem.

End Out : Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine continuing to

run with missing end.

Hole : caused by broken needle.

Jerk-in : caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked part way into

the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear at the selvage.

Knots : caused by tying spools of yarn together.

Missing Yarn : Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber yarn (or

wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear as thick end or

different color if fibers have different affinity for dye.

Mixed End (yarn) : Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame,

resulting in a streak in the fabric.

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Mottled : Color applied unevenly during printing.

Needle Line : Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Usually a

vertical line.

Open Reed : results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to be held

apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous on fabrics that use

different colored yarns on warp and shuttle.

Pin Holes : Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric while it processes

through tenter frame.

Press-Off : results when all or some of the needles on circular knitting fail

to function and fabric either falls off the machine or design is completely

disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needles are broken and have to be

replaced when bad press-off occurs. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of

fabric.

Printing Machine Stop : Dye or ink smudged along width of fabric as a result

of the printing machine stopping.

Print Out of Repair : Caused by print rollers not being synchronized

properly. This results in various colors of the design not being printed in the

proper position.

Puckered Selvage : Usually caused by selvage being stretched in finishing or by

uneven wetting out in sanforization process.

Runner : caused by broken needle. The runner will appear as vertical

line. Most machines have a stopping device to stop the machine when a

needle breaks.

Sanforize Pucker : Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; usually

caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will appear wavy or puckering when

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spread on cutting table. Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection

machine with fabric under roller tension.

Scrimp : the result of fabric being folded or creased when passing through

tenter frames.

Slub (woven fabric) : usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven

into fabric. It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is

caused by fly waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.

Slub (Knit fabric) : Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, or by

ling getting onto yarn feeds.

Smash : caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have been repaired.

Soiled Filling or End : Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling yarns, or

on packaged-dyed yarn.

Stop Mark : when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates under tension;

when the loom starts again, the slack is woven into the fabric.

Straying End : Warp Knit. Caused when an end of yarn breaks and the

loose end strays and is knit irregularly into another area.

Thin Place: often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the loom continuing

to run until the operator notices the problem.

Water Spots : Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to remain too long

before drying: color migrates leaving blotchy spots.

If anyone want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece

goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to

conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. Apparel Search recommends a

minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the

fabric. Many factories attempt to inspect the fabric during the spreading,

but this is probably unrealistic to depend on the spreader to control the

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fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected prior to the fabric

reaching the cutting tables.

Inspection system of fabric

The defect classification works as follows.

Size of Defect:

3 inches or less = 1 point penalty

Over 3 inches but not over 6 inches = 2 point penalty

Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches = 3 point penalty

Over 9 inches = 4 point penalty

Note: a maximum of 4 points should be charged to one linear yard. Also,

note that only "major" defects are charged.

The acceptable score varies. Many companies use 40 points per 100 yards as

acceptable defect rate. However, others may find this not acceptable.

Here is some math to show you an example.

Total Yardage received: 5400

Acceptance Point-count: 40 per 100 yards

Total Yards Inspected : 540

Total penalty points found in the sample inspection: 150 points

150 divided by 540 times 100 = 27.77 points per 100 yards (because the

allowance is 40 points per 100 yards, this shipment would be acceptable).

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Above are only a few examples of fabric testing procedures? In fact, above is

only a short summary of the processes. If you are responsible for inspecting

fabric, you really will need to do more research on this subject

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They are fully equipped Testing Lab accredited by M&S and PUMA

Marks & Spencer PUMA

10% of all materials comes to the store are inspected randomly. To issue

anything from store they use software named SEP.

2. Sample making:

Sample is the reflection of any factory to the buyer. It is the sample who

represents the factory in front of buyers. Unlike any other factory Interfab is

very much careful about their quality of sample. The points they consider to

check a sample are; whether the samples is as per buyer’s specification or

not, style description, sketch, measurement sheet etc.

They have a Product development section along with the sample section.

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They create different types of new design here and give presentation to

buyer.

3. Cutting section:

Pattern & Marker:

At first the patterns are made according to the size set sample approved by

the buyer. Then the sample is checked. The measurement curved spaces like;

arm hole, seam allowances, notch or cut mark, drill mark, gradation,

allowances, pattern part missing, mixed parts, direction of the pattern in

marker, overlapping, etc are carefully checked here. Then the marker goes to

marker. The people in marker section set pattern in different ways to get

the maximum efficiency. This factory has a CAD section. All the markers are

done here by CDA. So they get butter, efficient maker in lowest possible

time.

The efficiency of their shirts is 88 to 90% varies on styling.

Spreading:

During spreading they check; fabric relaxation, incorrect tension of plies, wrong

direction of piles, mismatching of checking of checks and stripes, narrow

fabric, shaded fabric. Over all they check if there are any faults on the fabric.

Here spreading is done in two ways:

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I) Auto spreader

II) Manual spreading

Auto spreader is more accurate, efficient and time consuming than manual.

Effective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. The

inspector should not develop a set routine. You do not want the workers to

be in the habit of knowing when and how you will conduct their

inspection. You should make every effort to get a fair representation of the

cutting production by making random checks on the cutting room

floor. When checking spreaders, make certain to check for marker placement,

shading, table marks, etc. Here are a few issues to check.

Marker Placement: check that the marker is placed on the spread with the

edge parallel to the selvage of the piece goods. Verify that all cut pieces will

be complete.

Shading: unless all parts are ply marked, it is essential to have a system to

control shading.

Table marks: check the table marks as they table is marked. Allow no minus

tolerance for the splices.

Markers: ensure that no markers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped

parts.

Splices: after completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both

piles extend past the marked splice by no less than 1/2 inch and no more

than 1 inch.

Narrow Goods: after completion of the spread, check the far edge of the

spread to see that all plies extend beyond the marker line.

Tension: check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit

fabrics.

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Count: check the count after completion of spreading, and before

cutting. Count all plies at both ends. There should be no tolerance.

Leaning: check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to

table top. Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the table top.

Record the spreading defects by the quantity of defects found for each

checkpoint. Any defective work discovered by the inspector should be

immediately corrected. Do not only record the problem. Make sure to fix

the problem immediately.

One of the keys to producing good quality merchandise is an in-process quality

control program. Although it is possible to control their outgoing quality

with only a good final audit, it is NOT recommended to simply rely on that

approach. Unless you install an effective in-process quality control program,

their cost of excessive seconds and repairs may be high. It is far more

effective to correct the problem at the operator level, then after the

garment is completely assembled, pressed, packages and prepared for

shipping. Being able to deliver their merchandise on time is important to

their customers. Good in-process controls help assure that the final audit

runs smoothly and allows for timely delivery. You certainly do not want to

learn in their final audit about problems that could have easily been fixed if

detected earlier.

The primary purpose of the in-process auditing is to identify problems as

early as possible. A problem may be caused by the operator, the machine, or

other factors. The inline audits will help you find specific problems in

production. The only way to fix a problem is to find the problem. It is

important to find errors as quickly as possible so that they can be corrected

as fast as possible.

Cutting

Cutting could be done in two different ways:

http://www.apparelsearch.com/quality_testing.htm

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I) With marker.

II) Without marker.

When cutting is done manually, there has to be a marker. But cutting is

done by auto spreader and auto cutter, no marker is needed there. But to

insure the perfection of cutting a marker is put on the fabric.

Interfab can cut more than 30,000 Pecs of garment in a day.

Bundling, Numbering, Cut panel checking

After cutting the cut parts are bundled together. It is done to prevent

missing parts, shave variation etc. Every part of a lair is given a unic number.

Numbering is done to make a garment from a lay. Numbering is done by

sticker, pen and machine, depends on the fabric. On every bundle the cut

piece of marker is put on. 8 to 10% of the bundles are checked called cut

panel checking.

Fusing Section

As we know that, we can have maximum quality if the fusing section is under

the cutting section. In this industry fusing, printing, embroidery is controlled

by cutting.

4. Sewing Section:

There are some systems are practice in the sewing floor. Interfab takes

Traffic Light System.

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Seam Control checks

These checks should be made on a regular basis usually by the quality control

staff; to ensure that the seams being produced are meeting the technical

specification laid down. An example for a Seam control check card is given

below:

Fabric strength

Needle thread strength

Bight

Seam stitches per unit length

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Affect strength across seam

Fabric stiffness

Needle thread extensibility

Needle thread tension


Affect seam grinning and gaping


Needle thread extensibility

Fabric extensibility

Combined thickness of fabric plies

Cover thread thickness

Needle thread tension DIAGRAM

Presser foot pressure

Affect seam extensibility

Stitches per inch

There is a minimum below which a seam will not hold without gaping and

grinning, and the stitches will ride prominently on the fabric surfaces. There

is a maximum above which the seam jams with sewing thread, the base fabric

is damaged, and the seam puckers and is thick and rigid.

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Fault analysis card

There are some systems are practice in the sewing floor. Interfab takes

Traffic Light System.

General faults are, for example, those resulting from machine or operative

defects, which may be common to any garment in the workroom. They may

include such as:

1. Skip stitches

2. Unbalanced seams

3. Careless handling faults

4. Seam breakaway

5. Incorrect tensions

Job faults are those which are specific to a given garment e.g.

1. Bad pattern match

2. Wrong measurement

'Fault Analysis' is the name of a well tried technique in which all facets of

each fault are recorded under appropriate headings. Together with an example

FAULT

Split

Stitch

on

Linking

APPEARANCE

Half stitch or

part

Of stitch

CAUSE

Failure

to

place

whole

stitch

on

point

EFFECT

Weak

part in

seam

which

under

pressure

will

break

away

RESPONSIBILITY

Operative

ACTION

Remove

fabric

from

points

and run

on

PREVENTION

Check each

stitch is on a

constructive

point when

fabric is run

on

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or examples of each fault the analysis provides an invaluable teaching aid. The

headings are indicated below with an explanation of each

Sewing Checks

a. Stitches per cm. and thread run-in ratio checked to be within tolerance

of specification.

b. Evenness, balance and correct bight, no stitching missed

c. Extensibility and security correct (i.e. no cracking or laddering).

d. Absence of skip stitching.

e. Accountability of machinist.

In-Process Quality Check (IPQC)

The in-process quality check is designed to provide early warning of quality or

other problems arising during production and which may delay shipment.

In other words, it is intended to provide a snapshot of the status of

production at a factory. During production, semi-finished parts must be

inspected based on AQL or percentage according to the company policy and

inspection plan.

There are perfections charts in the sewing line and end line.

Checks carried out include stocks of raw materials, production rates,

estimated production completion date, production bottlenecks, etc.

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End line Quality Check

After sewing an end line inspector check 8 to 10% of the finished product.

At the end of the line there is a counting board. It counts the production of

every hour. It helps to fulfill the target production.

If the fabric is light colored or white they use a protective cap on collar top.

Any spot or dirt on these sensitive parts, it is very difficult to remove.

Control of quality in garment assembly

1. Components of an Effective System

The requirements of an effective system are:

i. Specification - i.e. that parts of the total specification which is

required by the making-up supervisor.

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ii. Monitoring of

a. the product to ensure conformity with the specification

b. The machinists to determine where non-compliance with the

specification arises.

i. Collection of data - from supervisor's sample checks. Analysis of data.

ii. Corrective action

a. short term- fault correction

b. long term - fault prevention

Garment check by Supervisor

The sample of garments checked by the Supervisor must be representative of

the total production.

Sample size is a function of the fault rate and the degree of confidence

required. Typically, at a confidence level of 95% and a fault rate of around

5% the sample size would be 54 dozen or 648 garments. In the case of a

complex garment this would almost certainly absorb a disproportionate

amount of the supervisor's time - bearing in mind her other duties.

The solution is firstly to concentrate the check on the less dependable and

skilled machinists, checking the others mainly at a major change, such as a

change of style.

Secondly, by checking those critical faults which are currently at an

unacceptable level or are showing an upward trend.

By this procedure a sample of meaningful size can be take in the critical

areas.

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i. Where it is not possible to take the optimum sample, bear in mind the

square-law, i.e. that a their garment, sample is 4x4=16 times better

than 1 garment, and eight garment sample is 8x8=64 times better

than a single garment and so on.

ii. The sample should be truly random i.e. of a number of garments, which

have passed through a given operation each one, should have an equal

chance of being selected. Checking a given machinist at precisely the

same times each day will not produce a meaningful sample.

1. Data Service for action by Supervisor

Data arising from final examination is invaluable to the sewing room

supervisor. Typically findings are recorded on a chart as shown below and the

rate for each fault calculated.

5. Finishing section:

Finishing section is the final section to make the product to sellable condition.

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They control the finishing section to achieve the maximum quality possible.

Wash garments are 100% checked here. Pressing, folding, tagging, packing are

main operations of finishing. Those operations are checked carefully.

Sequence of final inspection of garments:

To perform a reasonable inspection we have to maintain sequences of different

steps of the inspection are as follows:

1. Packing list verify/ compare with P.O. sheet:

Before starting inspection we have to check the final status of the lot with

p.o. sheet & packing list. Checkpoints are as follows:

a) Quantity

b) Color

c) Size

d) Packing

2. Inspection preparation:

To get the accrete result we must have well preparation for final inspection

are as follows:

a) required facilities are:

1 Sufficient space

a. Shade correct and not varying from one part of garment to another.

b. Cut is correct - e.g. neck, collar and sleeves balanced, pockets correct.

c. Measurements within tolerance of specification, weight correct.

d. Appearance correct, patterns matching.

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e. Seams finished correctly, absence of miss stitching, cracking and

laddering.

f. Accessories correctly applied and working.

g. Absence of fabric faults and stains.

h. Correct labeling.

i. Accountability of making-up (volume of work unsatisfactory; break-down

under various fault categories.)

Recovery Inspection

a. Check whether remedial works satisfactory.

b. Check on volume of work successfully recovered.

c. Avoidance of work recycling.

Yarn Checks

1. Count Tests on Staple Fiber Yarns: Check on count variability, within

cones and between deliveries: to be within tolerance of specification. If

coarse, yarn utilization impaired. Check on running average.

2. Bulking Tests on Continuous Filament Textured Yarns: Check on

consistency, and on filamentation

3. Condition Checks:

Check on incorrect condition

4. Yarn wrapping:

Levelness of yarn (also User levelness).

Further Yarn Checks (2nd order priority)

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1. Fiber analysis:

As specified for correct labeling

2. Fiber quality:

As required

3. Yarn twist:

On new deliveries and on demand for fault diagnosis. To be within specified

tolerance

4. Co-efficient of friction:

Test and compare to specification

5. Oil content:

When records of finishing loss, yarn utilization, count, grey weights, or

finished weights abnormal, oil content checked; and also if yarn running

abnormally. Content figure to be within tolerance of specification.

6. Accessories Checks:

Shade and size checked to be correct (e.g. buttons)

Stability (e.g. linings and trims and zip tapes) within tolerance of

specification. Extensibility and modulus (e.g. binding and elastic) within

tolerance of specification. Items work properly (e.g. zips)

Sewing threads, correct shade, ticket number and sews normally

7. Boxed Stock Audits

Goods in warehouse - sample checked for quality and faults.

Goods rejected - check to see if correctly rejected.

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8. Machine Efficiency

Ratio of knitting time or goods produced compared with basis if no down-

time. Provides measure of machine performance - analyzed against knitter,

machinist, fabric quality, garment style and yarn. -

9. Yarn Utilization

10. Fabric Utilization

As with machine efficiency, checks on process performance.

Analyzed against operation section, style, fabric or yarn.

During Production Check (DUPRO)

The DUPRO provides the on-line inspection, DQC qualified inspectors will check

that the corrections and improvements suggested during the IPC were

implemented, examine the existing productions, advised the manufacturers of

any further corrections or improvements to be made. The DUPRO should be

carried out when 30-50% of the merchandise has been produced (minimum

50 pieces) in this services, inspector will on-line check the production

materials, process, semi-finished and finished products. During Production

Inspection (DUPRO) is used for to guarantee uniformity of the actual

production and specification.

Audit:

Audit can be performed in the sewing floor as well as in the finishing section

or whatever required.

Mini QC:

Every day the products made by Interfab are checked. Each and every shirt is

inspected here.

Pre-final Inspection:

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In Interfab before final inspection they perform three per-final inspections.

They are as follows:

I) After 25% garment produced are made and pecked.

II) After 50% garment produced are made and pecked.

III) After 75% garment produced are made and pecked.

Factory Audit

The Factory assessment is performed by our Auditor following a general

framework designed after SA 8000 standard and completed, when requested,

with the client's specific requirements. The audit takes at least one full day

and begins with a request for documentation. The factory management is

assembled. One of the documents reviewed is the Quality Certification. The

grantor of the certificate is scrutinized as are the periodic reviews. The

factory is required to submit documents for a part similar to the part being

considered for production. Documents requested include:

- Process Flow Chart

- Control Plan

- Dimensional Layout

- Capability Study

- Production Failure Effects Mode Analysis

The auditor inspects the factory beginning with raw material storage and

inspection. Tooling workshops are inspected. The auditor then "walks" the

Control Plan through every manufacturing process. The last steps of the

factory inspection are final test, packaging, and laboratory areas. By the

end of the auditing day, the auditor knows if the quality systems claimed

by the factory are in practice and if the management is committed to

constant improvement.

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Quality control records

The above data, immediately on being generated, is automatically entered

on records as continuity charts, either in tabular, graphical or

computerized form. This action takes very little time, and enables the

current data to be compared with previous data and with other related Q.

C. data. The visual impact of the presentation is immediate and creates

rapid feed-back of vital information to production and other interested

management personnel.

The essential features of the standard are contained in the following basic

requirements:-

1. Quality System

2. Organization

3. Review of Quality System

4. Documentation/Records

5. Equipment

6. Purchased Materials and Services

7. Manufacturing Control

8. Work Instructions/Workmanship

9. Corrective Action

10. Completed Item and Inspection and Test

11. Sampling Procedures

12. Control on Non-conforming Material

13. Alternative Inspection Procedures and Equipment

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14. Indication of Inspection Status

15. Protection and Preservation of Product Handling, Storage and Delivery

16. Training.

Pre shipment Inspection (PSI) or Final inspection:

To select sample Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd follows some certain rule.

The rules are given as below:

Lot or batch size

Special Inspection Levels General Inspection Levels

S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 I II III

2 ~ 8

9 ~ 15

16 ~ 25

26 ~ 50

51 ~ 90

91 ~ 150

151 ~ 280

281 ~ 500

501 ~ 1200

1201 ~ 3200

3201 ~ 10000

10001 ~ 35000

35001 ~ 150000

150001 ~ 500000

500001 and over

A

A

A

A

B

B

B

B

C

C

C

C

D

D

D

A

A

A

B

B

B

C

C

C

D

D

D

E

E

E

A

A

B

B

C

C

D

D

E

E

F

F

G

G

H

A

A

B

C

C

D

E

E

F

G

G

H

J

J

K

A

A

B

C

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

N

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

N

P

Q

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

J

K

L

M

N

P

Q

R

TABLE II SINGLE SAMPLING PLANS FOR NORMAL INSPECTION:

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Sample size code

letter Sample size

Acceptable Quality Levels(normal inspection)

0.25 0.40 0.65 1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0 6.5 10

Ac Re Ac

Re Ac Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

Ac

Re

A

B

C

2

3

5

0 1

0 1

0 1

1 2

D

E

F

8

13

20

0 1

0 1

0 1

1 2

1 2

2 3

1 2

2 3

3 4

2 3

3 4

5 6

G

H

J

32

50

80

0 1

0 1

1 2

1 2

2 3

1 2

2 3

3 4

2 3

3 4

5 6

3 4

5 6

7 8

5 6

7 8

10 11

7 8

10 11

14 15

K

L

M

125

200

315

1 2

2 3

1 2

2 3

3 4

2 3

3 4

5 6

3 4

5 6

7 8

5 6

7 8

10

11

7 8

10 11

14 15

10 11

14 15

21

22

14 15

21

22

21

22

N

P

500

800

3 4

5 6

5 6

7 8

7 8

10 11

10

11

14

14

15

21

21

22

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Q 1250 7 8 10 11 14 15 15

21

22

22

R 2000 10 11 14 15 21

22

Usually the AQL of this factory is 2.5.

The Interfab team performs a final random inspection comprising of a detailed

visual inspection of goods before shipment. It is generally conducted on the

premises of the manufacturer, on samples selected according to defined

sampling procedures.

The inspection criteria covering quality, quantity, marking and packing are

based on the client's specifications and reference samples, as provided. Upon

completion of the final random inspection a detailed inspection report is sent

to the client and the inspection certificate issued to the supplier if all

findings are positive.

The top management of Interfab performs the final inspection. They have so good

relation to its entire buyer that the buyer don not need to send their

representatives or third party inspection team. Interfab does not take any charge

for the final inspection.

Some of the various inspection options available to you are listed below.

Buyer can choose which options you would like to have completed or not.

1. Quantity

2. Master Carton Markings

3. Master Carton Weight & Dimension

4. Master Carton Content Verification

5. Product Packaging Comparison

6. Packaged Product Weight

7. Packaging Dimension

8. Product Packaging/ Remailer Description

9. Sample/ Product Comparison

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10. Workmanship

11. Product Functional Verification

12. Master Carton Transportation Drop Test

13. Packaged Product Transportation Drop Test

14. Instruction Sheet/ Booklet

Quality Assurance

Interfab Inspection provides product shipment inspection services for buyers

purchasing item. Their qualified inspection personnel will take any available

samples and/or product related requirements, and inspect shipments

thoroughly before they depart Bangladesh.

They offer product testing and quality verification and report their findings

so that buyer can make the decision to have the shipment sent or returned

to the manufacturer.

They know how stressful it can be to worry whether the items buyer

purchased will be of the quality and design you want them to be. Their

inspection personnel have years of experience and can give buyer a quality

inspection of the products buyer have purchased before they leave Bangladesh.

In the factory they have every floor palned. It is a sign of TQM.

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Interfab has world class machines, skilled work force, all over that they are

intended to achieve the maximum possible quality. That makes them one of

the leading Garment manufacturing factories in our country.

After all of that it is clear that Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Limited is a

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Model Total Quality Management factory. It is a kind of factory that is

working forward to enhance business among the developing nations and making

us proud of it. If three shirts are sold in UK one of them is made by

Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Limited.

At last we want to thank our Honorable teacher, Kazi Shamsur Rahman for

giving us a chance to see such a nice factory like it.

THE END…