AAC Publications

Asura Peak, North FaceChina, Sichuan, Gangga Range

In late October, Paul Manson (Scotland), Norihide Yamagishi (Japan), and I (Australia) made thefirst ascent of the summit at the junction of the western and central massifs of the Gangga Range. Itlies at the head of the Niyada Qu river valley, and we named it Asura Peak (31.473447°N,99.910003°E). Maps give it an altitude of 5,207m, which we were unable to verify. This was the firstofficial ascent of any of the 40 or so peaks in the range above 5,000m; one unauthorized ascent wasmade in 2013 (AAJ 2014).

The Gangga Range lies in the far northwest of Sichuan, 700 km from Chengdu and 250 km from theborder with Tibet (Xizang). It is part of the most northeasterly extension of the Himalaya and has hadlimited accessibility in the past. More than 75 percent of the region's population is Khampa Tibetan,centered on the trading and monastery town of Ganzi. Nomadic families from the high plateau passthrough the Gangga valleys in early winter.

The timing of our 2015 expedition was based on weather observations made the previous year, whenlogistical problems prevented me from summiting a 5,439m peak in the central massif. Our aim in2015 was to make an unsupported, alpine-style ascent of the north face of an undocumented peak.Once we left the road at 4,200m, without porters or electronic communication devices, we were self-contained for nine days. A three-day approach took us to a cold yet ideally sited camp below the400m north face of the mountain we eventually called Asura. Nearby peaks and passes affordedgood views of the face and chances to acclimate.

On our first attempt we took a direct line up the center of the face, where we found good snow to 70°,thin ice, and rock of varying quality. There was an obvious ice line, but we found it too thin, andinstead climbed increasingly difficult mixed terrain beside it. We eventually retreated after Yamagishitook two 6m falls on an overhanging pitch at ca 4,900m and lost an ice tool. Similar long lines coverthe face and have great potential.

Our second attempt took a meandering line that linked two tiers of exposed snowfields via pitches ofScottish 5 mixed. These led into the obvious couloir that bisects the face. After several steep snowpitches in the couloir, we arrived below an overhanging, corniced notch, surrounded by towers anddangerously loose rock; this was ca 60m below what we assumed to be the summit. We retreateddown the couloir and returned to camp 13 hours after setting out.

A rest day allowed more discerning reconnaissance and confirmed the true summit was set backfrom the main face and best reached by crossing the central couloir and making a rising traverseacross a series of snowfields at the base of the headwall. However, with the arrival of our first spell ofbad weather, we worried me might not get back on the face in the little time left.

Several centimeters of snow fell that night, but the sky had partially cleared by midmorning. With adegree of expectation and the pressure of an unpredictable weather window, we simul-climbed to thecouloir, reaching it in late morning, and then continued to simul-climb across the upper snow andmixed sections. Minimal snow had collected from the previous night’s precipitation. A short, cornicedridge was followed by a traverse to the summit, which we gained at 12:30 p.m. An encroaching cloudbase gave only 15 minutes to take photos of the previously unseen southern reaches of the range, aswell as the southern aspects of the highest peaks and multiple alpine objectives. We reversed the

route to the central couloir, where we used our previous rappel line to descend. The route gave ca700m of climbing and was Scottish V M5 70° snow.

Ed Hannam, Japan

Images

The north face of Asura Peak. (1) The line used to start the second attempt and then continued tomake the third, successful attempt. (2) The line of the first attempt. (3) The upper line of the secondattempt, a prominent couloir that bisects the face.

Peaks of the eastern (left), central, and western Gangga Range from the Sichuan-Tibet Highway to thenortheast. Almost all peaks remain unclimbed. Asura Peak is immediately left of the peak directlyabove the leftmost telegraph pole.

Looking north from Asura Peak into the unexplored lower Niyada Qu valley and the highest peaks ofthe Gangga Range. From left to right: Peak 5,154m, Gangga II (5,582m), Gangga III (5,525m), andGangga I (5,688m), all unclimbed.

Ed Hannam on typical mixed terrain during the first attempt on the north face of Asura Peak.

Looking southeast from 4,700m down the seasonally inhabited approach valley rising west from theGanbai Road (Zhuoda Qu valley). The high peak on the left is Dechok Phodrang (5,632m), climbed byan Austrian-Spanish expedition in 2015, from the opposite side. All other peaks in this area of theeastern Gangga Massif are unclimbed.

Norihide Yamagishi traversing thin snow toward the ice line during the first attempt on Asura’s northface. Just above this point, the team retreated when Yamagishi took two falls and lost an ice tool.

Article Details

Author Ed Hannam

Publication AAJ

Volume 58

Issue 90

Page 354

Copyright Date 2016

Article Type Climbs and expeditions