author: mari-liis lille...author: mari-liis lille-finished size - about 22 cm (8.5 inches) if using...

AUTHOR: MARI-LIIS LILLE

Finished size - about 22 cm (8.5 inches) if using similar yarn Skill level: advanced Supplies 1. Yarn – the example is crocheted using DK / 8 ply weight Drops Cotton Light (50 g / 105 m; 50% cotton, 50% polyester) and Drops Muskat (50 g / 100 m; 100% cotton) Color A – white Color B – pink Color C – brown (only a small amount for the tips of the legs) Color D – beige

THIS IS AN ORIGINAL DESIGN BY LILLELIIS. YOU ARE ALLOWED TO SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT HANDMADE BY YOU

IF THE ITEM DESCRIPTION STATES IT`S BASED ON LILLELIIS PATTERN (PATTERN BY MARI-LIIS LILLE, WWW.LILLELIIS.COM).

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - YOU MAY NOT SELL THE PATTERN. IT IS ALSO PROHIBITED TO ALTER THE INSTRUCTIONS,

MAKE TRANSLATIONS AND DISTRIBUTE IT ON PAPER OR ELECTRONICALLY.

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Copyright © 2016 Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille

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2. Small amount of golden sparkling yarn, for example sport / 5 ply weight Katia Gatsby (50 g / 118 m; 77% viscose, 15% polyamide, 8% metallic) 3. Mohair yarn for the hair, for example aran / 10 ply weight Novita Rose Mohair (50 g / 189 m; 65 % acrylic, 35 % goat mohair) 4. Crochet hook 3 mm (or according to the yarn you use) 5. Two stitch markers 6. Polyester fiberfill 7. Safety eyes (Ø 6 mm) 8. Brown thread for stitching the mouth and eyebrows 9. Pink thread for stitching the cheeks 10. Darning and embroidery needles 11. Spangles and beads for embellishing the dress 12. Beading needle and thread 13. A book with at least 15 cm width and 20 cm height for making the hair About the pattern

Work in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed. In amigurumi most of the pieces begin with a magic ring. If you don`t want to use that, you

can easily start by chaining 2 and working the stitches of the first round (mostly 6 sc) in the second stitch from hook. After that continue to round 2.

Use a stitch marker and place it in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of it. Move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one.

If you need to change color, do it always at the end of the previous round. Start the last stitch of the round with the current color in use. Change to the new color right before you draw through all loops on the hook to complete the last stitch.

I advise using the invisible sc decrease to achieve a smoother surface. In the place where you need to decrease insert your hook in the front loop of the stitch (do not yarn over), insert the hook in the front loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through all (2) loops on hook.

When finishing an amigurumi piece there is a difference between the height of the beginning and the end of the last round. That makes sewing the pieces together more difficult. To smooth this out, crochet an extra slip stitch, then ch 1 and after cutting the yarn pull the yarn tail out of the next stitch.

You can easily sew the toy together by leaving a long tail of yarn on each piece. Stitch explanation Decrease (sc2tog) - Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Abbreviations sl st - slip stitch ch - chain sc - single crochet hdc - half double crochet dc - double crochet st(s) - stitch(es) rep - repeat

Find my amigurumi tips and tutorials at my homepage www.lilleliis.com

http://www.lilleliis.com/


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PATTERN HEAD AND BODY Crocheted from top to bottom. 1: Color A. Work 6 sc in a magic ring [6] 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12] 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24] 5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30] 6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36] 7: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42] 8: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [48] 9-18: Sc in each st around NB! Mark the first stitch of round 16 with the stitch marker and do not move it from there as we will need it when placing the safety eyes. You can mark the beginning of the following rounds with the second stitch marker. 19: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [42] 20: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [36] For adding safety eyes go back to round 16 where you have the first stitch marked. Count 21 stitches from the beginning of the round and insert the safety eye in the next stitch space. Then count 8 holes to the left and insert the second eye in the next hole. Close the washers on the inside of the work.

Start filling the head with fiberfill. Add stuffing as the work progresses and make sure it`s stuffed quite heavily.

21: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [30] 22: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [24] 23: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [18] 24: (Sc in next st, sc2tog) rep 6 times [12] 25-26: Sc in each st around 27: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 28: Sc in each st around Fill the neck and continue adding stuffing as you go.


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29: Color B. (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24] 30-31: Sc in each st around 32: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30] 33-34: Sc in each st around 35: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36] 36-42: Sc in each st around

43: Working in the front loops only, (sl st in the next st, ch 1, 2 hdc in the next st) rep 18 times. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Pull the yarn tail through the last stitch.

Finish stuffing the dress. Flatten it so that the yarn tail remains in the right corner. Close the opening using the back loops left unworked. Make sure you have enough stuffing on both corners of the dress.


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LEG (make 2)

1: Color C. Work 5 sc in a magic ring [5] 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [10] 3-4: Sc in each st around

5-10: Switch color A and color D after each round, sc in each st around

Start filling the leg and add stuffing as the work progresses. Stuff the upper part of the leg softer.

11-22: Color A. Sc in each st around

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the opening and close it with a few stitches.


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Sew the legs to the body. Thread the yarn tail through the needle and pull it through the leg using the stitches above the seam you just made, then pull it vertically through the stitches of the closing seam of dress. Repeat. Finish the seam with a secure knot.


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ARM (make 2)

1: Color A. Work 8 sc in a magic ring [8] 2-12: Sc in each st around

Stuff about half of the arm.

13-16: Color B. Sc in each st around

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the opening and close it with a few stitches the

same way as you did with the legs. Sew the arms to the body, over the seam of the dress.

WING (make 2)

1: Color D. Ch 11. Starting from the second st from hook sc in each of next 10 sts [10]

Hereafter work in the back loops only.

2: Turn, ch 1. Starting with the same stitch sc in each of next 8 sts (the remaining stitches are left unworked) [8]


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3: Turn, ch 1. Starting with the same stitch sc in each of next 8 sts [8]

4: Turn, ch 1. Starting with the same stitch sc in each of next 6 sts (the remaining stitches are left unworked) [6] 5: Turn, ch 1. Starting with the same stitch sc in each of next 6 sts [6]

6: Turn, ch 1. Starting with the same stitch sc in each of next 4 sts (the remaining stitches are left unworked) [4] 7: Turn, ch 1. Starting with the same stitch sc in each of next 4 sts [4]

8: Ch 1. Without turning sc in each of 7 row-ends [7]


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9: Turn, ch 2. Starting with the next st dc in each st leaving the last loop of each dc on the hook. By

the end of this row you will have 7 loops on hook.

Draw up a loop and pull through all 7 loops on hook.


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Ch 1. With the next few sts we will even out the piece.

2 sc along the last dc, sl st in the last sc of row 7.

First sc made Second sc made

Cut the yarn and weave in yarn ends.

Edge the wings with golden yarn. Make sure the wings mirror each other.

Start at the top where you gathered dc stitches together. Pull the yarn through and ch 1.

This is where we

want to end up.


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Sc around the piece working 2 sc in every outer corner. Finish the edging with a sl st into the first sc. Leave a tail for sewing.

Take a strip of golden yarn and embellish the wing. With in and out stitches add vertical or

horizontal lines just as you like.


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Sew the wings together at the top with a few stitches.

Now attach the wings to the doll`s back following the seam between them. It`s up to you whether

you want to place the tips facing up or down.


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Embellish the dress. Pull the needle out, add a spangle and a bead, then skip the bead and insert

the needle only through the spangle. Move to the next spot to add another embellishment.

Embellish the front as well as the back side of the dress.

HAIR

First measure the lenght of the wig. Start 9 rounds above the eyes and end about 2 cm below the

neck. I got 13 cm.

Start wrapping mohair yarn vertically around the book. Pull yarn strands close to each other

leaving no gaps in between. Continue until you have 13 cm (or whatever measurement is

necessary for the wig) in width.

To make the hair you will need a book almost as high as your doll and a few

centimeters wider than the wig measurement.


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End wrapping at the top. Without cutting the yarn place the hook behind the last strand of yarn,

yarn over and pull through, ch 1.

Continue moving forward with sl sts. With each stitch move about 4-5 yarn strands further,

continue until you reach the other end.


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Ch 1 and cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

Turn the book the other way round and cut through the yarn strands.

Remove the book. Be careful not to stretch or harm the wig!


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Turn the wig around so the outer side of the seam will be on the inside of the wig. Attach the hair

to your dolls head with pins. Leave the long yarn tail on the back. Stretch it very gently if needed.

Start sewing the hair from the back to the front following the seam in the center.

Keep the rest of the yarn tail for stitching the bangs later on.

Plait the hair in two braids. To close the braids wrap a strand of yarn around the braid a couple of

times, make a secure knot and hide the yarn ends inside the end of the braids.


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Even the braid ends with scissors.

Add some stitches of different lengths for the bangs.

Stitch the mouth and eyebrows with a dark thread.


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Add some tiny stitches on the cheeks with pink thread.

And your little angel is ready!

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

If you have any trouble with this pattern, you find errors or want to give feedback, please feel free

to contact me at [email protected].

If you want to improve your technical skills please take the time to check my Amigurumi Tips and

Tutorials: http://www.lilleliis.com/tips-and-tutorials/

I would be more than happy if you`d share the photo of your finished item with me. You can do it

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.lilleliis.com/tips-and-tutorials/


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either in our Flickr group called WeHeartLilleliisPatterns

(https://www.flickr.com/groups/we_heart_lilleliis_patterns) or via email or Facebook message.

Help me fight against the misuse of my copyright. If you find this pattern being shared anywhere

else other than my official shops at lilleliis.com, etsy.com, amigurumipatterns.net or

happystitches.nl, please contact me immediately at [email protected].

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author: mari-liis lille...author: mari-liis lille-finished size - about 22 cm (8.5 inches) if using...

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