award- winning advice - finescale.com/media/files/pdf/advertising/mag-fsm-jan15.pdf · january 2015...

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www.FineScale.comJanuary 2015

200+ HOW-TO TIPS AND PHOTOS

THE WORLD’S BEST MODELERS SHARE THEIR SECRETS

AWARD-WINNING ADVICE

OUR EXPERTS BUILD AND EVALUATE 9 ALL NEW KITS

FEATURINGMORE THAN70 MODELS

Vol. 33 • Issue 1

WINGNUT WINGS LTDFSM • 01/01/2015 • 4C • 1 PG

TAMIYA AMERICA INCFSM • 01/01/2015 • 4C • 1 PG

Get the Secrets to

GREAT MODELS!From start to fi nish, Build Better Models 2 shows you exactly how to get the advanced modeling results you want. Whether you’re starting out fresh or returning to a favorite hobby, you’ll fi nd expert tips and techniques, helpful how-to advice, and hundreds of step-by-step photos to help you improve your modeling skills!• Get expert assembly and construction tips.

• Discover how to get that perfect fi nish.

• Learn to detail and airbrush like a pro.

• And much more!

P22

403

Reserve Your Copy Today!

Order online at www.FineScale.com/FS6Or call 1-800-533-6644Monday – Friday, 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. CT. Outside the United States and Canada call 262-796-8776, ext. 661.Build Better Models 2 will arrive in late November 2014. A49F6

ALSO AVAILABLE IN DIGITAL FORMAT!

$1 OFF + FREE SHIPPING

Visit our website! You can enjoy more modeling photos and fea-ture articles, access additional modeling resources, get industry news, see previews of upcoming issues, or register to participate in our forum. And it’s free!

Subscribers: Click on “Register,” enter the customer number from your subscription label, and throughout your subscription you’ll have unlimited access to bonus features, more than 1,400 kit reviews, and a database of more than 14,000 products!

AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING20 Whitewashing a Sherman for winter service Hairspray, washes, plaster, and pigments JIMMY NGO KEE SHYANG

22 Scratchbuilding to superdetail Driving Hasegawa’s F-4J Phantom II beyond the aftermarket MATTHEW JARCZYN

26 8 tips to build your first biplane Two wings doesn’t mean too hard PHILLIP GORE

FSM SHOW GALLERY EXCLUSIVE!28 IMPS/USA National Convention Amazing models from across the country 36 Multilevel finishing for small-scale armor Light touches for an SdKfz 7/1 FAUSTO MUTO

38 Color modulation for armor Using a packaged paint set to model light and shadow with color COOKIE SEWELL

FSM BASICS45 Repair a ship’s rudder Styrene and brass rod to the rescue JOSEPH BOSSERT

FINAL DETAILS66 What is your favorite kit? MARK HEMBREE

January 2015 • Vol. 33 • No. 1

47 Questions & Answers49 Reader Tips64 Hobby Shop Directory64 Classified Marketplace

In Every Issue

Inside

Get more at www.FineScale.com!

52

One of the best collections of the year’s finest models could be found in a single room at the IPMS/USA National Convention. FSM brings you this and more, with sage advice from the world’s top modelers.

On the Cover

20

22

36

38

45

6 Editor’s Page 8 Scale Talk12 Spotlight14 New Products

FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187. Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.

WORKBENCH REVIEWS

9 NEW KITS 2

59

54

60

• Kitty Hawk F-101A Voodoo

• Special Hobby Bell AH-1G Cobra

• Tamiya Mark IV “Male”

• Revell Germany F4U-1A Corsair

• Revell Germany Spitfire Mk.IIa

• Moebius Battlestar Galactica

• Airfix Bristol Blenheim Mk.I

• Kinetic Republic P-47D Thunderbolt

• Freedom X-47B UCAS

Get the Secrets to

GREAT MODELS!From start to fi nish, Build Better Models 2 shows you exactly how to get the advanced modeling results you want. Whether you’re starting out fresh or returning to a favorite hobby, you’ll fi nd expert tips and techniques, helpful how-to advice, and hundreds of step-by-step photos to help you improve your modeling skills!• Get expert assembly and construction tips.

• Discover how to get that perfect fi nish.

• Learn to detail and airbrush like a pro.

• And much more!

P22

403

Reserve Your Copy Today!

Order online at www.FineScale.com/FS6Or call 1-800-533-6644Monday – Friday, 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. CT. Outside the United States and Canada call 262-796-8776, ext. 661.Build Better Models 2 will arrive in late November 2014. A49F6

ALSO AVAILABLE IN DIGITAL FORMAT!

$1 OFF + FREE SHIPPING

By Matthew UsherEditor’s Page

Contact Us

Your Editorial Staff

[email protected]

www.FineScale.comWant to learn more? For the latest news as well as modeling tips and techniques, visit our website at www.FineScale.com

Editorial: FineScale Modeler21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612262-796-8776, weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. CTFax: [email protected]: www.FineScale.com

Customer service (subscriptions, renewals, and consumer products): 800-533-6644, weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. CT; outside the U.S. and Canada 262-796-8776 ext.421Fax: [email protected]

Advertising and trade orders: 888-558-1544, weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. CT; outside the U.S., 262-796-8776 / Fax: 262-796-0126 Advertising e-mail: [email protected] Sales e-mail: [email protected]

PublisherMark Savagemsavage @Kalmbach.com

EditorMatthew Ushereditor @FineScale.com

Associate EditorMark Hembreemhembree @FineScale.com

Associate EditorTim Kidwelltkidwell @FineScale.com

Associate EditorAaron Skinneraskinner @FineScale.com

Editorial AssociateMonica Freitagmfreitag @FineScale.com

6 FineScale Modeler January 2015

Welcome to the new year!WELCOME TO the January issue of FineScale Modeler, and welcome to the new year!

As the Editor of FSM, one of my main duties is picking the cover story for each issue (I know, it’s a tough gig, but someone has to do it.)

This month’s lineup includes a gallery of the models Associate Editor Aaron Skinner and I shot at the International Plastic Modelers Society’s National Convention at Hampton Roads, Va.

When we got back to the office and started looking at all the phe-nomenal models we’d photo-graphed, one of us undoubtedly made the comment, “You know, any one of these models would make a fantastic cover.”

It didn’t take us long to make the next leap, “Hey, how many of

these do you think we could fit on the cover? And what about inside?” You’re holding the jam-packed result.

The Nationals is always an amazing event, with a huge vari-

ety of models on display. I’m sure you’ll find the gallery and the modeling tips it contains helpful on your next project, whether you build for competition, or just for fun.

Just in case you haven’t noticed, we have a special edition available! Build Better Models 2 is an 84-page compilation of new stories, along with some of our most-requested articles from past issues of

FineScale Modeler. At $7.99, it will make a great addition to your scale-modeling reference library, no matter what you build.

BBM2 is only available through late February, so pick up a copy at your newsstand or hobby shop today. To order online, visit www.KalmbachStore.com. You can also call our Customer Sales and Service department at 800-533-6644 Monday through Friday, 8:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. Central Time. (Outside the U.S. and Canada 262-796-8776, Ext. 421.)

YOU KNOW, ANY ONE OF THESE MODELS WOULD MAKE A FANTASTIC COVER

This logo is for use on masthead only. Do not use less than 100% of full size.

January 2015 www.FineScale.com 7

Editor Matthew W. UsherAssociate Editor Mark HembreeAssociate Editor Tim KidwellAssociate Editor Aaron SkinnerEditorial Associate Monica FreitagArt Director Tom FordSenior Graphic Designer Patti L. KeipeIllustrator Kellie JaegerPhotographers Jim Forbes, William ZubackProduction Supervisor Helene TsigistrasProduction Coordinator Cindy BarderCirculation Specialist Carly WitkowskiPublisher Mark Savage

CONTACT USCustomer Sales and Service 800-533-6644Advertising Sales 888-558-1544Group Sales Manager Rick Albers, Ext. 652Ad Sales Representative Jim Hagerty, Ext. 549Ad Services Representative Cassie Gartman, Ext. 620

SELLING FINESCALE MODELER MAGAZINE OR PRODUCTS IN YOUR STORE

Phone 800-558-1544, Press 3Outside U.S. & Canada 262-796-8776, Ext. 818Fax 262-798-6592E-mail [email protected] www.Retailers.Kalmbach.com

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO.President Charles R. CroftVice President, Editorial, Publisher Kevin P. KeefeSenior V.P., Sales & Marketing Daniel R. LanceVice President, Consumer Marketing Nicole McGuireAdvertising Director Scott BongCorporate Art Director Maureen M. SchimmelManaging Art Director Michael SolidaySenior Group Circulation Manager Michael Barbee

ADVISORY BOARDJohn Noack, Paul Boyer, Shep Paine, Bob Collignon, Cookie Sewell, Pat Covert, Rusty White, Pat Hawkey

©2014, Kalmbach Publishing Co. All rights reserved. Title is registered as trademark. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews. Postmaster: Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wisconsin, and additional offices. Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612.

SUBSCRIPTION RATES: single copy $5.99; U.S.: 1 year (10 issues), $39.95; 2 years (20 issues), $74.95; 3 years (30 issues), $106.95. Canada: Add $8 postage per year. All other international subscriptions: Add $12 postage per year. Payable in U.S. funds, drawn on a U.S. bank. Canadian price includes GST (Canada Publication Mail Agreement #40010760, BN 12271 3209 RT). Expedited Delivery Service: Domestic First Class, add $20/yr.; Canadian air, add $20/yr.; International air, add $45/yr.

Letters, new releases, and new-product information are accepted as gratis contributions to FineScale Modeler. Feature articles and scale drawings are paid for on acceptance. All other submissions are paid for upon publication, at which time FineScale Modeler obtains all reproduction rights unless otherwise agreed. Instructions for submitting features, photographs, and drawings for publication are available from the editorial associate or online at www.FineScale.com/contribute. Unsolicited material will be returned only if postage and envelope are provided. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for the safe return of unsolicited material. Printed in U.S.A.

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Praise for John BackenstrossGreat job on the A-7E (October 2013 FSM)! I was intrigued by U.S. Marines Col. (later Maj. Gen.) Drax Williams’ name on the cockpit: quite unusual for an aircraft the Marine Corps did not fly. So, I did some research and found the model and decal manufacturers got it right. VA-15 was assigned to Marine Air Group 12, 1st Marine Air Wing, during its shore-based deployment to Marine Corps Air Station Iwakuni, Japan, from December 1985 until May 1986. The squadron began transitioning to the F/A-18 Hornet in January 1987.

However, my research revealed that A-7E No. 157586 is not at “The Boneyard.” It is currently displayed at the Camp Blanding Museum in Starke, Fla., repainted to represent A-7E No. 157503, which was lost over the Gulf of Tonkin on Dec. 24, 1972. - Charley Hart , U.S. Navy (ret.)Charlottesville, Va.

Hi Charley, thanks for writing! It’s true that the Corsair II John modeled currently resides at the Camp Blanding Museum. Upon fur-ther research, it was either sent to AMARG or NAS Jacksonville for demobilization. Where exactly it sat for six years before the museum received it in 1992 is unclear. We’re still looking into it and will let you know! — Tim Kidwell, Associate Editor

Articles about lighting and paint?I love FSM and look forward to each issue.

If you can, I think an article on install-ing LED lighting would be very useful. The article could include: using fiber optics; those really cheap LED strips you can get on eBay; wiring; batteries orsolar power; repurposing solar Christmas lights; lights for World War II planes; and so on.

Also, I’m still having trouble getting a mirror finish on my sports vehicles. An article about this — if you haven’t already done so — would also be useful.- Jason FerridgeMelbourne, Victoria, Australia

Jason, do we have good news for you: FSM has featured many stories about lighting model kits. Two immediately come to mind: First, Editor Matthew Usher’s July 1999 “Power TIE” article teaches you how to use f iber optics and LED lights to light a “Star Wars” TIE fighter. Second, Brian Disney’s amazing “HMS Titanic Dockside” tutorial from November 2000 shows how to light a 1/350 scale ship at anchor. Of course, these may not be exactly the models you’re looking to light. But the techniques can be applied across a wide variety of modeling genres and eras.

In the October 2000 issue, Pat Covert demonstrates how to use plastic polish for high-gloss coats in “Polished to Perfection.”

You can order back issues of FSM by call-ing 800-533-6644 (262-796-8776 inter-national) or by visiting www.FineScale.com/backissues. You might also consider looking at our sister publication, Scale Auto, which concentrates on model cars. Visit its website at www.ScaleAutoMag.com. — T.K.

Appreciation from the U.K.I am a subscriber in the United Kingdom, and I’m writing to let you know how impressed I am with FSM. I had been a regular reader of your magazine for many years until pressures of work and time took me away from its informative pages.

My first modeling experience was about 60 years ago when I built the simple Airfix kits that, at the time, came in plastic bags. With rationing still on in Britain and money scarce, they were treats that brought immense pleasure.

Over time, my modeling interests grew. While I pursued a professional life in the aerospace industry and government, I kept up with modeling. Modeling magazines and books helped keep my skills sharp. However, over the last 10-15 years, I have noticed a disturbing trend: U.K. modeling magazines changed to a snazzy design lay-out, seemingly uncertain of what they wanted to be and where they wanted to go.

As editor of a newsstand aviation mag-azine here in the U.K., I was aware of the dangers in taking a too-dramatic step

Your voice in FSM

Scale Talk

Let us know what you think! Comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM articles are welcome. E-mail your thoughts to [email protected], or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contribute to FSM.” You can also mail typed or handwritten letters to the address on Page 6. Clearly mark “To the Editor” on the envelope. Please limit your comments to no more than 300 words and include your name and location.

Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation(Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685)

1. Title of publication: FineScale Modeler

2. Number of publication: 679-590

3. Date of filing: October 1, 2014

4. Frequency of issue: Ten times per year

5. Number of issues published annually: 10

6. Annual subscription price: $39.95

7. Location of known office of publication: 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, Waukesha County, WI 53186, ph. 262-798-6497

8. Location of headquarters or general business offices of publishers: Same

9. Publisher: Mark Savage, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53186. Editor: Matthew Usher, same address. Managing Editor: N/A

10. Owner: Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53186; Stockholders owning or holding one (1) percent or more of total amount of stock are: Deborah H.D. Bercot, 22012 Indian Springs Trail, Amberson, PA 17210; Gerald & Patricia Boettcher Living Trust, 8041 Warren Ave. Wauwatosa, WI 53213; Melanie J. Duval, 9705 Royston Ct., Granite Bay, CA 95746; Harold Edmonson, 6021 N. Marmora Ave., Chicago, IL 60646; Laura & Gregory Felzer, 714 N. Broadway, Milwaukee, WI 53202; Susan E. Fisher Revocable Trust, 3430 E. Sunrise Dr., Ste. 200, Tucson, AZ 85718; George A. Gloff Revocable Trust, c/o Ted & Lois Stuart, 1320 Pantops Cottage Ct. #1, Charlottesville, VA 22911; Bruce H. Grunden, 255 Vista Del Lago Drive, Huffman, TX 77336; Linda H. Hanson, 363G Bateman Circle S., Barrington Hills, IL 60010; George F. Hirschmann Trusts, 363G Bateman Circle S., Barrington Hills, IL 60010; James & Carol Ingles, P.O. Box 2161, Waukesha, WI 53187; Charles & Lois Kalmbach, 7435 N. Braeburn Lane, Glendale, WI 53209; Kalmbach Profit Sharing/401K Savings Plan & Trust, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612; James & Elizabeth King, 2505 E. Bradford Ave., #1305, Milwaukee, WI 53211; Mahnke Family Trust, 4756 Marlborough Way, Carmichael, CA 95608; George Steven Mahnke, 4756 Marlborough Way, Carmichael, CA 95608; Mundschau Revocable Trusts, 1530 Tallgrass Circle, Waukesha, WI 53188; Daniel & Mary Murphy, 10200 W. Bluemound Rd., #333, Wauwatosa, WI 53226; David M. Thornburgh Trust, 8855 Collins Avenue Apt. 3A, Surfside, FL 33154.

11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of bonds, mortgages, or other securities: Not applicable

12. Tax status: Not applicable

13. Publication title: FineScale Modeler

14. Issue date for circulation data below: September 2014

15. Extent and Nature of Circulation:

Average No. Actual No. of Copies of Single Issue Each Issue Published During Preceding Nearest to 12 months Filing Date

A. Total no. copies (net press run): 65,554 63,792

B. Paid and/or requested circulation

1. Paid/requested outside-county mail subscriptions: 26,367 25,852

2. Paid in-county subscriptions 0 0

3. Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, counter sales, and other non-USPS paid distribution: 12,325 11,300

4. Other classes mailed through USPS: 0 0

C. Total paid and/or requested circulation: 38,692 37,152

D. Free distribution by mail

1. Outside-county: 0 0

2. In-county: 0 0

3. Other classes mailed through USPS: 38 40

4. Outside the mail: 0 0

E. Total free distribution (sum of 15d (1,2,3,4)): 38 40

F. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e): 38,730 37,192

G. Copies not distributed: 26,823 26,600

H. Total (sum of 15f and 15g): 65,553 63,792

I. Percent paid and/or requested: 99.91% 99.90%

16. Total circulation includes electronic copies:

Average No. Actual No. of Copies of Single Issue Each Issue Published During Preceding Nearest to 12 months Filing Date

A. Paid electronic copies: 4,005 4,450

B. Total paid print copies + paid electronic copies (sum of 15c and 16A): 42,697 41,602

C. Total print distribution + paid electronic copies (sum of 15f and 16a): 42,735 41,642

D. Percent paid and/or requested: 99.91% 99.90%

17. Publication of Statement of Ownership: Will be printed in the January 2015 issue of this publication.

18. I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and complete.

Nicole McGuire, Vice President - Consumer Marketing, 9/29/14


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Scale Talk

away from familiar layouts and comfort-able designs and constantly guarded against that.

My interest in buying modeling maga-zines waned until, by chance, I happened on a copy of FSM and found it just the same, comfortable, well-designed maga-zine I had known several years before. It immediately attracted me back, and I ordered a subscription via your website.

The latest copy has just arrived, and I am writing now to say how grateful I am for the way you maintain such a high stan-dard and provide such a well-produced magazine for all skill levels and ability.

How do you continue to produce such a superior product when U.K. modeling magazines are now so dreadful? I know that is highly subjective, but the British magazine market is now full of glitzy, snazzy pages full of white space and little meaningful content; some are packed with list upon list of new products (when it is so easy to see all that on the Internet).

Please continue to do what you do and accept my sincere gratitude for all your efforts. This is, after all, a hobby. But it is

one which brings such joy and pleasure simply in the “doing” of it, that a reliable, familiar face like FSM is a joy — and a reassurance — to receive. Thank you so much. Please keep up the good work. It is cherished.- David BakerBrede, Nr. Rye, East Sussex, England

David, FSM is a group effort, and we owe much to our design team: Art Director Tom Ford, Senior Graphic Designer Patti Keipe, Illustrator Kellie Jaeger, and photographers Jim Forbes and William Zuback. The editors here work very closely with them to make sure we produce the best publication we can to help readers like you get the most out of the infor-mation we provide. We appreciate your praise and are grateful for your support. Thank you! - T.K.

From father to sonI’ve been a modeler since I was 8, and an avid reader of FineScale Modeler for years. I want to take this time to thank FSM for helping me hone my skills as a modeler, and, also, to thank my dear departed father.

When I was a youngster in the ’60s, my dad would come home from working as a bricklayer and relax by building the the old Aurora wildlife and football-star kits. Although I was too young to partici-pate, I watched him build and paint each kit by hand, fascinated.

When I started building kits on my own, Dad taught me patience and the importance of detail. After I completed a model, no matter how crude the finish, he complimented me on the outcome and proudly shared my work with the neigh-bors.

Now that I’m retired, I build daily. And even though my dad passed away nearly 20 years ago, each time I sit down at my workbench, I can hear him telling me to be patient and do the best I can.

Thank you, Dad, for your guidance. Each kit I finish is dedicated to you. While I never had the chance to thank him in life, I want him to know how much I miss him and thank him for my love of the hobby.- Kevin TersavigeDanville, Pa.

Now at FineScale.comHOW-TO PRODUCTS & REVIEWS VIDEOS GALLERIESCOMMUNITY

FineScale.com/Reviews

Workbench Reviews Subscribers receive early access to upcoming reviews.

Weekly free reviewCheck out this week’s free model kit review.

FineScale.com/HowTo

Article archiveSearch our article collection to find the answer to your modeling questions.

Tips database Subscribers can search our extensive database of reader-supplied tips.

FineScale.com/OnlineExtras

An F-104 Starfighter in FranceWhen he modeled a CF-104 stationed in northeastern France, Jean Paul Poisseroux had a lot to show: a detailed aircraft, ground crew and equipment, diorama groundwork, and, according to references, sheep.

FineScale.com/Videos

Video issue previews FSM Editor Matthew Usher highlights what’s inside the current and past issues.

FSM BasicsWatch the new series of how-to videos hosted by Associate Editor Aaron Skinner as he explains the basics of construction, paint, glue, and more.

New Product RundownAssociate editors Tim Kidwell and Aaron Skinner pick the hottest scale-model hobby releases, open up the boxes, and show you why they rock.

SUBSCRIBE AT FINESCALE.COM AND GET IMMEDIATE ACCESSThe FSM+ icon indicates subscriber-only content.


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Ford Motor Company Trademarks and Trade Dress used under license to Round 2, LLC. General Motors Trademark notice used under license to Round 2, LLC. AMT and design is a registered trademark of Round 2, LLC. ©2014 Round 2, LLC, South Bend, IN 46628 USA. All rights reserved.

After more than forty years of not being available, the Piranha CRV Super Spy Car is back in action! The Kats at AMT® have retooled the window and taillight parts to resurrect this super-detailed 1:25 model and to celebrate it’s return, it’s being released it in the Original Art Series. The feature-packed kit will include a bonus booklet with vintage photos of the 1:1 car, optional tinted windows, a newly developed decal sheet and much MUCH more! Kit AMT916

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Who wants a detailed Horten?Zoukei-Mura’s big-scale flying wing fighter revealed

L ike many of its German contempo-raries that never made it into produc-tion, the Horten 229 has long

captivated modelers. Despite there being only one surviving example in the world (at the Smithsonian — and only partial, at that), the unique flying wing has been the subject of several kits in 1/48 and 1/72 scale.

Now Zoukei-Mura (www. zoukeimura.co.jp), known for its large-scale ultradetailed kits, goes big with a 1/32 scale Ho 229 (SWS No. 8).

The first thing I noticed on opening the box is that the major body compo-nents — wing halves, fuselage skin, nose, and tail — come in clear plastic. On a model that will be almost 2' wide, that’s a lot of clear plastic! The body parts have a slight texture; the engine panels, landing gear doors, and obviously, the canopy, are crystal clear. The good news is there’s detail on both sides. The outside has fine recessed panel lines and rivets. Inside there’s frame detail.

The clear parts are cleanly molded with no flash and minimal ejec-tor-pin marks. The one-piece nose, which incorporates the engine intakes, is amazing!

The rest of the 319 parts are molded in gray plastic with the same attention to detail and quality. The clear body means much of the internal structure will be on show, including the wing and body frame.

Zoukei-Mura’s P-51D astounded me with the internal engine components, including the pistons. The Jumo jets in the Ho 229 are just as detailed, starting with the assembly of all eight compressor fans and the associated stators and hous-ings. The instructions include notes about the assemblies, including names and information about their purpose. It’s a great lesson in how a jet engine works.

The central frame takes 16 steps to assemble — that’s before even starting on the cockpit. In addition to the seat, the front office features side consoles, con-trols, and optional instrument panels.

Other features include posable drag rudders, air brakes, and drag-chute bay doors, separate control surfaces, detailed landing gear, and MK 103 cannons.

Decals provide wing walks, stencils, national insignia, ID stripes, and a bunch of numbers to mark the Horten in any late-war scheme. A set of pre-cut masks for the canopy rounds out the kit.

The kit is available from Volks USA, 310-782-8324, volksusastore.com/scale, for $152.


BOOKSHELF

Have you ever looked at a plane and

wondered what air force it belongs to? Or given yourself a headache trying to work out the right marking for a par-ticular plane?

If so, check out Military Aircraft Insignia of the World by John Cochrane and Stuart Elliott (Crècy, ISBN 978-095542-687-2).

This isn’t the first compendium on the subject of national marking, but I like the historical perspective this one takes. Organized by country, the book shows the development of insignia in illustrations and photos. It’s a great way to see changes and track world events, such as countries that split apart then reunited. The 144-page softcover vol-ume costs $22.95.

Danish Thunderjets in colorful detail

For 10 years during the Cold War,

the Danish air force operated more than 240 F-84s. That’s the subject of Ole Rossel’s lavishly illustrated hard-cover book, Republic F-84E & G Thunderjet in Royal Danish Air Force service 1951-61 (Stoppel Forlag, ISBN 978-87-91327-01-8).

After a brief history of the jet fighter in Denmark, the book features numerous detail photos and illustrations of the Danish F-84s. The chapter on colors and markings is great, with detailed lists of stencils carried on the planes, many appropriate for U.S. Air Force planes. The bulk of the content is contemporary photos of Danish Thunderjets (some in color) and a big section of profiles — all great references!

The 216-page book costs $68 at www.stoppel.dk.

Deciphering air arm markings

A bunch of markings from Fündekals

Fündekals made a name for itself with sheets for individual aircraft,

mostly World War II-era fighters.

The latest releases blow that notion out of the water, covering not only Cold War and modern jets but giving modelers multi-ple options on the sheet.

What hasn’t changed is the quality of the research and instructions provided, all of which is available on the website rather than supplied with the decal sheet.

An example of the comprehensive nature of the new sheets is Northrop T-38 Talons of NASA. Designed for the Wolfpack 1/48 scale Talon, the sheet has options for 16 NASA Talons, from Project Mercury through the shut-tle program. There are enough stripes and stencils to build several models. And Fündekals includes marking for a USAF Talon flown by Wally Schirra and Jackie Cochrane, as well as a couple used as SR-71 chase planes. The

decals are beautifully printed, and the down-loadable instructions are comprehensive. Diagrams back up the photos.

The same attention to detail is apparent in the 1/48 scale Spitfires of the Israeli Air Force, with options for 12 Mk.IXs from 1948-55.

Also in 1/48 scale are two sheets for F-102s. Part 1 features six Delta Daggers in USAF, NACA, and NASA markings. Part 2, also available in 1/72 scale, adds six more to the mix.

In 1/72 and 1/144 scales is an amazing set of

marking for Avro Vulcans. According to Fündekals, there are enough options here to build virtually any Vulcan ever flown by the Royal Air Force; there are 24 shown in the instruc-tions, and enough extra numbers for almost any serial.

Lastly, in 1/144 scale, there’s a set for Revell’s C-17, with markings for a single Globemaster III each from the USAF, Kuwait, the United Arab Emirates, Hungary, Qatar, and India.

Each set costs $10-15 and can be ordered at www.fundekals.com.

Seminal ship, small scale

HMS Dreadnought, the original bat-tleship, was largely ignored by kit manufacturers for years. Then came

kits in 1/350 scale from Zvezda and Trumpeter. The latter has now released the pioneering warship in 1/700 scale (No. 06704).

The basic structure consists of four

pieces: a two-part hull split at the water-line, a deck, the superstructure, and the forecastle. They fit together very cleanly.

The molded detail is top-notch, including fine railings, sharp guns, and ship’s boats, masts, and davits. The planks on the deck look just right. The kit includes all of the torpedo-net supports along the hull as separate pieces. A stand is included.

Two photoetched-metal frets supply details for the funnels and masts, ladders, and parts for the bridge.

A small decal sheet provides Union Jacks and Royal Navy ensigns.

Trumpeter’s 1/700 scale HMS Dreadnought costs $48.95.

New ProductsCompiled by Monica Freitag


AIRCRAFT

1/24 SCALE KITS

Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB from Airfix, No. A19002, $160.95.

1/24 DETAIL SETS

Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB landing gear (for Airfix) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 24008, $19.95.

1/32 SCALE KITS

Horten Ho 229 from Zoukei-Mura, No. SWS No. 8, $152.

1/32 DETAIL SETSFokker D.VII landing gear and struts (for Wingnut Wings) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 32088, $17.95.

Spitfire Mk.I-V cockpit upgrade set from BarracudaCast, No. BR32174, $7.95.

Spitfire Mk.I-V resin seat with backpad from BarracudaCast, No. BR32172, $6.95. Spitfire Mk.I-V resin five slot mainwheels from BarracudaCast, No. BF32176, $7.95.Spitfire Mk.I-V door, no crowbar from BarracudaCast, No. BR32173, $4.95. Spitfire Mk.I/II wing correction set from BarracudaCast, No. BR32175, $7.95.

1/35 SCALE KITS

MH-60S HSC-9 “Tridents” from Academy, No. 12120, $99.98.

1/48 SCALE KITS

F-106A Delta Dart from Trumpeter, No. 02891, $74.95.

MiG-28 and US Navy F-5E Air Raider from AFV Club, No. AR48S09, $58.

VH-34D Marine One from Gallery Models, No. 64105, $55.98. The Presidential Helicopter circa 1961 during the Kennedy era. The “White-

Top,” has a VIP interior as well as presidential markings.

1/48 DECAL SETSAlpha Jet (for Kinetic) from Caracal Models, No. CD48044, $13.99. 15 marking options from 8 countries.EMB-314 Super Tucano “Smoke Squadron” (for HobbyBoss) from Caracal Models, No. CD48066, $14.99.

RNZAF F4U Corsairs from Xtradecal, No. X48136, $10.75.

Brazilian Navy AF-1 (A-4M) Skyhawk “15 Years” special scheme for Hasegawa A-4M from Caracal Models, No. CD48070, $9.99.

F-101A/C Voodoo for early Voodoos, (designed for Kitty Hawk) from Caracal Models, No. CD48052, $14.99. 4 marking options.

Air National Guard F-106 Part 1 Florida, Massachusetts and Montana from Caracal Models, No. CD48060, $14.99.


U.S. Navy “Blue Angels” C-130 (for Italeri and Testors) from Caracal Models, No. CD48065, $14.99.

NASA T-38 Talons (for Wolfpack) from Fündekals, $12. Marking for 19 aircraft from the 1960s to 2007.

F-102 Delta Daggers Part One from Fündekals, No. $12. Markings for F-102As from the 4th FIS, 48th FIS, 317th FIS, NACA, NASA, and a drone.

F-102 Delta Daggers Part Two from Fündekals, No. $12. Markings for F-102As from the 318th FIS, 57th FIS, 478th ADW, 509th FIS, and 32nd FIS. Also available in 1/72 scale.

Israeli Defence Force Spitfire Mk.IXs from Fündekals, $14. Marking for 12 Israeli Spitfires from 1948-55.

USAF/US Coast Guard Albatross SA-16A & UF-1G (for Trumpeter) from Caracal Models, No. CD48047, $15.99. 6 markings options for USAF & USCG Albatrosses.

1/72 DETAIL SETSC-123 Provider landing gear (for Roden) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 72095, $13.95. Mirage III/V landing gear for (PJ Production) from Scale Aircraft Conversions, No. 72096, $13.95.

1/72 DECAL SETSRNZAF F4U Corsairs from Xtradecal, No. X72203, $10.75. Air National Guard F-15C/D from Caracal Models, No. CD72013, $13.99. 12 marking options from 4 different ANG units.Brazilian Navy AF-1 (A-4M) Skyhawk “15 Years” special scheme for Fujimi A-4Mfrom Caracal Models, No. CD72025, $7.99. F-16C/D Vipers - The Next Generation from Caracal Models, No. CD72019, $13.99.

Bristol Blenheim I, If, IV & IVf Royal Air Force and Fleet Air Arm from Xtradecal, No. X72203, $13.99.

USMC/FAA/RNZAF Corsairs from Xtradecal, No. X72209, $13.99. RAF Red 48" x 24" x6" bomber codes from Xtradecal, No. X72210, $5.50.

RAF Red 48" x 30" x 6" bomber codes for Lancaster, Halifax, Stirling from Xtradecal, No. X72211, $5.50.

RAF Red 36" x 6" x 4.5" bomber codes from Xtradecal, No. X72212, $5.50.RAF Sky numbers and prototype Ps from Xtradecal, No. X72213, $5.50.Avro Vulcan B.2 from Fündekals, $15. Also available in 1/144 scale. High quality decals that should allow the modeler to depict any Avro Vulcan B.2 that flew with the RAF.

1/128 SCALE KITS

Convair B-58 Hustler from Lindberg, No. HL405/12. Contact your local dealer for price information.

1/144 DECAL SETS C-17 Globemaster for Revell Globemaster III from Fündekals, $12. Six marking options

ARMOR

1/35 SCALE KITS

T-90 with TBS-86 tank dozer from Meng, No. TS-014, $89.95. Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Russian artillery tractor T-20 Komsomoletz - Late from Mirror Models Ltd., No. 35201, $49.95.


New Products

Russian ZiS-30 self-propelled anti-tank gun from Mirror Models Ltd., No. 35202, $64.95.

US Diamond T 969A wrecker hardtop cab from Mirror Models Ltd., No. 35802, $94.95.

M24 Chaffee light tank — the first Indochina War from AFV Club, No. AF35S84, $65.

Churchill Avre with Snake Launcher from AFV Club, No. AF35259, $65.

Russian GAZ-66 light truck from Trumpeter, No. 01016, $74.95.

1/35 DETAIL SETSM46, M47 Patton, M26 Pershing track type T84E1 from Friulmodel, No. ATL-156. Contact your local dealer for price information. 175 links with wire.

Panzerhaubitze 2000 from Friulmodel, No. ATL-157; Abrams M1A1, M1A2 track type T158 No. ATL-155. Contact your local dealer for price information. Löwe bär from Friulmodel, No. ATL-154, $45. 224 links with wire.

1/48 SCALE KITSBritish Armored Scout Car “Dingo” Mk.II from Tamiya, No. 32581. Military Miniatures Series No. 81. Contact your local dealer for price information.

SHIPS

1/350 SCALE KITS

Russian Navy Tsesarevich Battleship 1917 from Trumpeter, No. 05337, $89.95.

USS Intrepid CV-11 from Gallery Models, No. 64008, $329.98.

1/700 SCALE KITS

HSM Dreadnought 1907 from Trumpeter, No. 06704, $48.95.

MILITARY FIGURES

28MM SCALE KITS

Rome’s Legions of the Republic II from Victrix Ltd., No. VXA008, $49.

www.FineScale.comfeaturing reviews,

product information, photo galleries, and more!

www.FineScale.comFineScale Modeler magazine receives new products from a variety of manufacturers on a daily basis and we are now able to share all of them with you through our interactive exclusive FSM product database. Click on the Product News link at www.FineScale.com.

www.FineScale.comSubscribers have exclusive access to model kit photos not published in the magazine! Simply go to FineScale.com/Reviews.


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looking in a long-neglected corner of the basement, we found a box

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New Products

1/32 SCALE KITSUSAAF bombardier European theater mid-to-late WWII for B-17, B-24, B-25 and B-26 bomber aircraft from Master Details, No. 32040. Contact your local dealer for price information.

1/72 SCALE KITS

German paratroop heavy weapons from Valliant Miniatures, No. VM010, $12.95.

FANTASY FIGURES

1/8 SCALE KITS Catwoman from Moebius Models, No. 952, $34.99. Sculpted by master sculptor Jeff Yagher the completed kit is 9.5" high. Includes batcave rock display base and nameplate.

1/8 SCALE KITS 1966 Batman from Moebius Models, No. 950, $34.99. Sculpted by master sculptor Jeff Yagher the completed kit is 9.5" high.Includes batcave rock display base and nameplate.

SCIENCE FICTION

1/72 DETAIL SETS18" Enterprise window tem-plates for AMT from ParaGrafix, No. PGX188, $37.95.

1/1000 SCALE KITS

USS Reliant NCC-1864 from Polar Lights, No. POL906/12, $27.99. A seen in “Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan.” Look for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

AUTOS

1:24 SCALE KITSHyundai Azera from Academy No. 15121, $29.98. Multi-color parts allowing an authentic build with or without paint or glue.

1/25 SCALE KITS

1953 Ford pickup from AMT, No. AMT882/12, $25.99. 3 n’ 1 operating tailgate and hood.

Donnie Allison’s Mercury Cyclone stock car from MPC, No. MPC796. $28.99.

1/25 DETAIL SETS

1969 Mercury semi-truck chrome sleeper from AMT, No. AMT-PP012/24. $16.49.

1/32 SCALE KITS

Avanti sport coupe from AMT, No. AMT885/12, $27.99.

BOOKS

Weird-Oh - The Art of Bill Campbell, $39.99, by Mark Cantrell, soft cover, 192 pages, all color pho-tos, ISBN: 978-0-7643-4648-4. From Schiffer Publishing.

A description of our new-product announcement and review policies is available from Product News Coordina-tor, FSM, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187, 262-796-8776, fax 262-796-1383, or e-mail at [email protected]. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for content of external sites linked through our site. Visit our website at www.FineScale.com.


Walk Around #14 F4U-4 & FG-1D from Peregrine Publishing, $10.

Walk Around #13 F4F-3 and FM-2 Wildcat from Peregrine, $10.

F-18 Hornet Part 1 from Aero Research, No. 1054, $12.95.

PAINTS

U.S. Navy PT boat color paint set from AK Interactive, No. AK5010, $16.75.

TOOLS

Custom Airbrush Grip from Grex Airbrush, No. GGS3. Contact your local dealer for price infor-mation. Designed for use with Genesis.XT and Tritium.TG/TS brushes.

Listening In - Electronic Intelligence Gathering Since 1945, $49.95, by Dave Forster and Chris Gibson, hard cover, 176 pages, 180 photos, ISBN: 978-1-902109-38-1. From Specialty Press.

ELECTRONIC MEDIA

USN-USMC Collection No. 7 from Aero Research Co., No. 1051, $12.95.

Manufacturer/Distributor DirectoryAero Research Co.www.AeroResearchCDs.com

Airfix253-926-9253www.airfix.com

BarracudaCastwww.barracudacast.com

Caracal Modelswww.caracalmodels.com

Dragon Models USA Inc.626-968-0322www.dragonmodelsusa.com

• Aoshima• Bronco• Cyber-hobby• Dragon• Fine Molds• Fujimi• G.W.H.• Master Box• Platz• Riich• Showcase Models Australia• Zvezda• Concord• Firefly Books• Nuts & Bolts Books

Friulmodelwww.friulmodel.com

Fündekalswww.fundekals.com

Grex Airbrush888-447-3926 www.grexusa.com

Hannants44-1502-517444www.hannants.co.uk

• Xtradecal• Xtrakit

Master Detailswww.masterdetails.com

Merit International626-912-2212www.merit-intl.com

• Merit• AFV Club• Kinetic

Model Rectifier Corp.732-225-6360 www.modelrectifier.com

• Academy• Gallery Models• MiniArt

Moebius Modelswww.moebiusmodels.com

Pacific Coast Models, Inc.707-538-4850www.pacmodels.com

• HK Models• Takom• Pacific Coast• Amusing Hobby• Asuka• Ebbro• Kitty Hawk• Panda• Xactscale

ParaGrafix508-431-9800www.ParaGrafix.biz

Peregrine Publishing516-759-1089

Revell847-758-3200www.revell.com

• Monogram• Renwal• Revell• Revell Germany

Round 2574-243-3000www.round2corp.com

• AMT• MPC• Polar Lights• Lindberg• Hawk

Scale Aircraft Conversions214-477-7163scaleaircraftconversions.com

Schiffer610-593-1777www.schifferbooks.com

Specialty Press651-277-1400www.specialtypress.com

• Ginter• Crecy• Hikoki• Zenith• Classic

Squadron Products877-414-0434www.squadron.com

• Encore Models • HobbyBoss• ICM• Meng• Roden• Super Scale International• Sword• True Details • Trumpeter

Stevens International856-435-1555www.stevenshobby.com

• AK Interactive• Trumpeter• Meng • Mirror Models• Noys Miniatures• Freedom Model Kits

Tamiya America Inc.949-362-2240www.tamiyausa.com

Valiant Miniatureswww.valiantminiatures.com

Victrix Ltd.www.victrixlimited.com

Zoukei-Murawww.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/


Whitewashing a Sherman for winter serviceCombine hairspray, washes, plaster, and pigments • BY JIMMY NGO KEE SHYANG

A photo of a tank from the 25th Tank Battalion, 14th Armored Division, at Hüttendorf, Germany, February 1945, in

Squadron/Signal’s Sherman in Action inspired this build. It had it all: sandbag add-on armor; worn whitewash camou-flage; and heavy mud on the lower hull and suspension.

To create the cast texture on the turret, I applied Tamiya putty thinned with liquid cement.

I built the brackets for the sandbags with .060" L-angle styrene using the photo to estimate the dimensions; I wasn’t con-cerned about being exact, because the armor was a field modification. I sculpted individ-ual sandbags from epoxy putty — shaping the ties and openings with a toothpick — then placed them one by one inside the brackets.

After letting a coat of primer dry for a couple of days, I airbrushed the model with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Color olive green.

Next, I applied several layers of hair-spray, followed by white acrylic paint air-

brushed in varying density over the model. I removed much of the white with warm water and a flat, stiff-bristled brush. I wanted more wear, so I applied more hair-spray to protect the white. Then, I sprayed more olive green and removed it using the same procedure. The two layers created just the appearance I wanted, so I sealed it with clear gloss.

To replicate whitewash weathered by rain, I added dots of Testors white enamel to turret and hull edges and pulled them down the sides with a brush dipped in Testors thinner. More dots of white paint created deposits of whitewash around details on the turret. (Enamels can be worked with thinner until you are satisfied.) Finally, I streaked Vallejo white acrylic, thinned with water, in vertical strokes to highlight the rain effects.

I created chips in the finish with Vallejo dark sea green applied with a fine-tip brush, then added washes. A mixture of water and pigments flowed into the lines produced dust deposits.

Mud came next, especially around the suspension and on the lower hull. To create mud, I mixed plaster of paris, Mig dark wash, several dark shades of pigments, acrylic resin, and turpentine. Using a big, round brush, I scooped this glop onto the suspension and lower hull. The tracks received the same mud mix. I highlighted the teeth and inner track surfaces with graphite.

After installing the tracks, I added fresh mud around the hull, including some heavy deposits on top of suspension units.

Finally, to make the Sherman even more interesting, I added splashes of white paint on the front sandbags and the bucket it came from. FSM

Mud: To apply mud — a mix of plaster, pigments, washes, acrylic gel medium, and turpentine — Jimmy scooped it up with a large, round brush and slopped it on the lower hull and around the suspension. Blowing air from an airbrush through a paint brush loaded with mud produced realistic spatters.

Tools: Jimmy painted the tools with Vallejo buff and added a spot of burnt umber artist’s oils at each end of the handles. Then, he pulled the oil paint toward the middle with a clean brush.

Rain streaks: Dots of white enamel pulled down the turret sides gave the whitewash a rain-dissolved look. A layer of thin white acryl-ics highlighted and finished the job.

AIRB

RU

SHING &

FIN

ISH

I NG


Whitewashing a Sherman for winter service

Working from a photo, Jimmy layered paint and weathering for a weary winter warrior. The Sherman is a combination of kits: the hull from Dragon’s M4A3E8; turret from Academy’s M4A3 105mm howitzer; VVSS suspension from AFV Club; and steel-chevron tracks from Dragon’s Sherman Firefly.

Pinwashes: Jimmy flowed Mig Productions neutral gray and dark washes into panel lines and around details with a fine brush.

Whitewash: After coating the olive green base coat with hairspray, Jimmy airbrushed white acrylic paint. He removed some of it with warm water and a brush. Not entirely happy with the initial results, he applied more hairspray, then olive green. Warm water and a stiff brush finished the work. Dabs of white enamel added density to the camouflage.

Sandbags: Jimmy started by painting the bags Vallejo buff. The upper surfaces received a U.S. tan earth wash; the lower edges, a wash of camouflage medium brown. A thick wash of Vallejo Russian uniform highlighted more detail. Sand-colored pigments mixed with water and washed over the front sandbags produced a layer of dust.


Driving Hasegawa’s F-4J Phantom II beyond the aftermarket

BY MATTHEW JARCZYN

Scratchbuilding to SUPERDETAILWho doesn’t like a Phantom?

With its pugnacious image and distinguished service history,

the F-4 Phantom II is a popular subject. Myriad variants have led to a host of kits from several manufacturers. Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale F-4J (No. 09632) remains a fre-quent choice of Phantom fans.

An upgrade of the F-4B, the J has visual differences that are easy for modelers to spot: no IRST pod under the chin; extended afterburner nozzles; and bulges (like the C) for beefed-up landing gear.

The J is one of my favorites, so I chal-lenged myself to throw in as much detail as I could manage (within reason) and to aug-ment aftermarket add-ons with my own scratchbuilding.

Shopping and dropping in detailsI consulted references to figure out what I wanted to add and how I could add it, a

purchasing process that led me to acquire:• Aires F-4J cockpit set (No. 4160)• Aires F-4 Phantom II exhaust nozzles

(4118)• True Details wing pylons (48525)• True Details wheels (48051)• Eduard AIM-9B missiles (648028) and

RBF tags (49009)All of those goodies made great eye

candy, particularly in the cockpit (even if it required a lot of cutting, sanding, and cuss-ing for a good fit).

But what I want to show you is the stuff I built myself.

Nose-wheel gear bayThe kit’s wheel well invited further detail, 1. I began with a sketch, which helped me determine size and to plan things that were buildable, 2, keeping the components com-patible and in scale. I used the kit’s well to make measurements for my own: 17⁄8" long;

1⁄2" wide; and a depth of 5⁄16" at the front, sloping to 1⁄4" at the back.

I transferred those dimensions to .040" sheet styrene and cut out the walls and ceil-ing of the well, taped them together, and checked the fit in the fuselage. Then I took the pieces apart and added internal details.

I cut strips of .010" sheet styrene for ribs. Next, starting with the aft wall, I embossed aluminum foil with rivet detail and laid that down. Then I worked from back to front, adding bits and pieces cut and carved from styrene sheet, rod, and tubing, as well as brass rod. Hydraulic lines and wiring are lengths of .010" and .016" brass rods; the larger lines are .020" and .030" styrene rod. Everything is secured with Insta-Cure gap-filling super glue. Once I reached the front wall, I embossed more rivets in foil and covered that side.

With the five inner surfaces detailed, I cemented the walls together to form the

1/ 48 Scale

Aftermarket items bolster Matthew’s model, but what really gets his Phantom flying is the visual appeal of his homegrown superdetailing — and the fun he has doing it.


completed wheel well, 3, checked its fit in the fuselage, and drilled holes in the ceiling to accept the locating pins from the nose-wheel strut and actuator, 4.

Ram air turbineThe ram air turbine (RAT), midway down the fuselage on the plane’s left shoulder, deploys to provide wind-generated emer-gency power if normal power becomes unavailable. A deployed RAT would be an eye-catching feature for sure!

I drew up a sketch with appropriate measurements and details to make a hous-ing for the unit from .040" styrene sheet. I butt-joined the walls with Maxi-Cure extra thick super glue.

I cut out the area in the fuselage with a hobby knife, filed the edges of the opening smooth and square, and thinned the edges for a better scale appearance. Then I sanded the housing’s walls to match the inside curve of the fuselage, 5. I detailed the RAT with .010" and .020" strips for ribs; small lengths of .010" brass rod simulated other details within. I made the RAT’s boom, shaft, and spinner using styrene tubing sanded to shape, joining short strips of .010" styrene sheet to the spinner to form

propeller blades. I drilled out the bottom of the RAT boom and inserted a brass rod as a pin for a strong connection to the base.

The RAT’s hatch doors are .010" sheet styrene with embossed foil for internal detail. I made the door actuators by bend-ing .010" brass rod to shape. Once in place, the RAT is definitely a standout feature, 6.

Drag-chute housing and hatchAt the end of the fuselage, right under the rudder, the drag-chute housing presents another opportunity for interesting details. It was difficult to find references, but on the Internet I saw a 1/32 scale F-4E with a great rendition of this detail.

First, I cut along the molded panel line at the end of each fuselage half to obtain halves of the chute compartment’s hatch. I cemented the two pieces together, used pieces of .010" styrene sheet for internal detail, and sanded the hatch to shape, 7. I made the depression at the center by warm-ing .010" styrene sheet and pushing the round end of a pen into it to make a dome, then stuck a disc of .010" styrene in the middle. After mapping out lightening holes around the edge, I drilled them out with a pin vise. Other small details, such as the

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4

The nose gear bay looked bare to Matthew, so he measured it and built his own.

There’s more to Matthew’s wheel bay than the kit part offered, even before adding superdetailed landing gear.

Making a sketch helped Matthew visualize details, size them, and decide whether he could build them.

After a final check to make sure the nose-wheel bay fit in the fuselage, Matthew drilled holes in the bay’s ceiling to accept the nose wheel’s strut and actuator.

5 6Insignia red makes that RAT stand out! That’s the excitement Matthew sought to create.

View of the completed, unpainted ram-air turbine: Styrene and brass bits and embossed foil key this construction, too.

hinge, are .010" brass wire bent to shape. The same styrene sheet provided details for the chute housing, 8.

Landing gearMy investment in True Details weighted wheels demanded a little more from the kit parts for the landing gear. I dressed up the nose strut and actuator with bits of .030" styrene and .010" and .016" brass rod, and gave the nose-gear retraction strut .010" brass wire and thin lead solder bent to shape, 9.

The True Details resin wheels are shaped to suggest weight-bearing tires, but, in my view, they look a little overdone. I sanded the bulge back so the tires would look load-bearing, not underinflated, then flattened the bottom edges, 10.

Auxiliary air intakesOn the belly of the Phantom is a pair of rectangular doors. These are auxiliary air intakes that open automatically when the landing gear is lowered. On the kit, the doors are molded to the belly and slightly ajar. Peering through them, you can see the bare interior of the plastic fuselage.

I thought I could do better than that.

.040" styrene

.020" styrene.010" styrene

.010" brass wire

Embossed foil


But cutting up this area of the model could really open a can of worms. How far should I go with this idea? Adding just enough detail to block the view would have been the easy (read smart) thing to do.

However, armed with good photos, I

decided to add more: the visible portions of the bulkheads; side walls; and portions of the two J79 engines that can be seen when the doors are open.

Again, I measured the available area on the model and made sketches, 11, design-

Brass wire

Lead solder

Styrene bits

9

More sketches for more scratchbuilding — putting it on paper helped Matthew envision the inner structure of the auxiliary air intakes.

The True Details wheel looked more flat than bulged to Matthew. He pumped it up by sanding the sidewall a little.

Bits of styrene, brass wire, and lead solder detail the landing gear, and a True Details wheel lends the illusion of a weight-bearing tire.

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11

8Matthew applied a little gizmology to detail the chute’s compartment. The hatch is attached with a brass hinge and detailed with a snippet of rubber hose.

ing enough detail to ensure that the fuse-lage shell would not be visible from any angle.

I cut away and discarded the kit’s molded doors, dressed the openings in the fuselage with a file, then thinned the edges closer to scale.

Using .040" styrene sheet ensured a stiff base for added details, 12. The ribs are strips of .010" styrene sheet with nubs of .020" styrene rod for bolts. I glued in lengths of .010" and .016" brass and lead solder to simulate lines and cables.

The sections of the twin J79 engines that you see began as halves of a jet pipe from a Hasegawa F-16. I softened the plas-tic in boiling water and pinched them to reduce their radius and fit their new space. I super glued aluminum foil for flanges on the engine surface, 13, and added bits of .020" sheet styrene styrene rod carved and sanded to shape. Service lines encircling the engine are made from styrene rod. Heat shielding represented by crinkled aluminum foil, super glued in place.

I cut new doors from .020" styrene sheet, detailed them with embossed alumi-num foil, and attached actuators made from segments of .030", .080", and 1⁄16" styrene rod, 14. Combined, the bulkhead, wall, and engine detail provide a suitably busy appearance, 15. You won’t see nearly that much when this subassembly is installed — but I know it’s there.

To the finishAfter construction was complete, I filled seams with Tamiya putty and scribed lost panel detail with a sewing needle in my pin vise. Then I primed everything with Testors Model Master neutral gray. Dark washes produced grime and depth, while dry-brushing brought out raised detail.

The color scheme was chosen by my lovely wife: She picked VMFA-312, the

7Inside the hatch for the drag chute, all the details are fabricated from .010" styrene sheet. Thermoforming produced the dip in the middle.


Checkerboards, in American bicentennial markings. (Kudos to her!)

Finally, black tempera paint deepened various grates, scoops, and intakes before two coats of Testors acrylic flat clear sealed everything.

I’m happy with this Phantom. It was great for practicing an entire range of model-building techniques, and I was able to achieve my goal of adding interest along the whole length of the plane. The extra work enhanced not only the model but my enjoyment of building it. FSM

.040" styrene .020" styrene

Brass wire

.010" styrene

Crinkled foil

Lead solder

12The plastic rectangular frame will fit inside the fuselage belly. Crinkled aluminum foil looks good as insulated wrapping.

One last look at this subassembly: Deep inside the plane, the handiwork will merely hint at complexity — and that’s fine with Matthew, who just enjoyed the superdetailing.

This is how the auxiliary air intakes would look from below — that is, if they weren’t mostly hidden inside the fuselage.

Matthew heated and squeezed an F-16 exhaust-nozzle half to depict a part of the F-4’s J79 powerplant visible through the auxiliary-intake doors — adding detail and preventing a view of the inner fuselage. Formed and carved styrene rod and aluminum foil take the J79 up a notch.

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SOURCESCockpit and exhaust detail sets, Aires, www.aires.czSidewinder missiles, RBF tags, Eduard, www.eduard.comWing pylons, weighted wheels, True Details, available from Squadron, www.squadron.comVFMA-312 bicentennial decals, Phancy Phantoms sheet (No. 48-503), Aeromaster, from Squadron (above)

Scratchbuilt chute compartment

Eduard Sidewinders, RBF tags Aires exhaust

nozzles

Superdetailed nose gear, well

True Details weighted wheels

Aires cockpit set

True Details wing pylons

Aeromaster decals

Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale F-4J Phantom II is a favorite of modelers and provides a receptive palette for aftermarket accessories. Matthew acquired plenty of those, but then kept going to superdetail the model with his own constructions.


In late 1916, the German Inspectorate of Aviation Troops decided it wanted an armored aircraft that protected the pilot and gunner from small-arms ground fire with 5mm of chrome-nickel-steel armor. Enter Junkers, a leader in the field of all-metal aircraft, with the J.I.

Slow and cumbersome, the J.I needed an inor-dinately long takeoff and landing area, and topped out at around 90 mph in the air. On Aug. 1, 1917, the first Junkers J.Is saw combat, and by October, flight crews reported the plane was sta-ble in turns, steady in strong winds, and provided a sense of security, winning the nickname “der fliegende Tank” (the flying tank). In January 1919, production ceased with more than 220 built.

With minimal rigging and few markings, the J.I makes a great introduction to World War I biplanes. Luckily, Wingnut Wings makes a cherry 1/32 scale kit of it.

Two wings doesn’t mean too hard • BY PHILLIP GORE

TIPS for your FIRST BIPLANE8

1/ 32 Scale

1The J.I interior is pretty sparse. Don’t feel you need to dress it to the nines your first time out. Go with the color recommendations in the instructions. Remember, once the fuselage is closed and the upper

wing is on, a lot of the interior will be bathed in shadow and hard to see.

2When you see a place where correction is

needed, go ahead and make it. I filled two missing corrugated corners on the upper wing and carefully shaped unused kit parts to fit.


3After painting the major subassemblies, I began weathering the wings by applying dark gray pastels over specific areas with a small brush. Using a thick, soft makeup brush, I “painted” the pastels in

the direction of airflow over the wing.

5To get the large “Eisernes Kreuz” (Iron Cross) to settle into the corrugated valleys, I made tiny slices along the decal edges with a hobby knife and brushed on heavy coats of Micro Sol decal solution.

7Test-fitting is essential for straight wings. I placed the J.I on a flat surface, measured the wingtips, trimmed the wing struts, and test-fitted several times before gluing them in place. Here, patience is not

a virtue — it’s a necessity.

4With most of the pastels removed, I broke up the broad swaths of green and gray and added highlights by dry-brushing a lighter shade of the base color. I repeated steps 3 and 4 to weather the

fuselage.

6I used Model Master aluminum enamel to simulate minor chipping and wear along the leading edges of the wings. I use a tiny amount on the tip of a paintbrush and make quick, random strokes.

8A penny is a great template to help make masks for the wheels. Just stick your tape to a cutting surface and trace around the penny’s edge with a hobby knife. FSM

Show Gallery


IPMS/USA National Convention 2014The U.S. chapter of the International Plastic Modelers Society celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2014 at its annual convention in Hampton, Va., in August. Almost 2,500 models were on display in the contest room, so there was a lot of cool stuff for FSM Editor Matt Usher and Associate Editor Aaron Skinner to admire. This gallery has a few of the scale creations at the show.

The 2015 IPMS/USA National Convention is slated for July 22-25 in Columbus, Ohio. Check out the con-vention’s website, www.ipmsusa2015.com, for details.

www.FineScale.comWant to see more?We didn’t have room for everything we shot. Subscribers can see more models from the show at www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras.

▲ RICHARD VAN ZANDTOLIVE BRANCH, MISSISSIPPITo build an F-4B of VF-84, Richard corrected the cockpit of Academy’s 1/48 scale Phantom with resin ejection seats and other details, including resin afterburner cans and re-scribed panel lines and rivets. He finished the U.S. Navy camouflage with Mr. Color enamels and Alclad II lacquers.

▲ CHAZZ KLANIANRICHMOND, VIRGINIAThis is BBR’s 1/43 scale Ferrari 121 built straight from the box and painted with decanted Tamiya spray-can Italian red. “The model was primed and ready to paint, and I dropped it,” Chazz says. “The resin body shattered into three pieces. I epoxied it back together and painted.” That’s great bodywork, Chazz!


▲ RIZA KANTIRAKISMONROE, MICHIGAN“This was my first non-car model, so I just tried to follow the directions,” says Riza of building Moebius’ gill-man from “The Creature from the Black Lagoon.” She painted it with Vallejo acrylics sourced from her dad’s tank-painting supplies — first green, then another green. Her dad showed her how to mix a wash to emphasize the creature’s skin texture.

▲ DENNIS DAVISONLONGMONT, COLORADOBuilding Wingnut Wings’ 1/32 scale Fokker E.II without any aftermarket parts allowed Dennis to focus on finishing it as the mount of German ace Hans Müller. He used Tamiya acrylics for the doped linen and Alclad II lacquers for the metal cowl. He hand-painted a lighter shade of metal for the brushed-metal surface.

▲ HENRY MILTONSUFFOLK, VIRGINIAHenry beefed up Dragon’s 1/35 scale Sherman Firefly Vc with Friulmodel metal tracks, photoetched metal from Aber and Eduard, and lots of weld seams formed with strip styrene and thin cement. After priming, he painted the British tank with Tamiya acrylics. Artist’s oil and enamel washes and Mig and AK pigments comprised the weather-ing treatments.

Show Gallery


GIL COSTAFALL RIVER, MASSACHUSETTSShowing Prinz Eugen just before the end of World War II, Gil dressed up Trumpeter’s 1/350 scale kit with a Flyhawk superdetailing set and scratchbuilt items, then rigged it with EZ Line and stretched sprue. Model Master enamels, followed by weathering with water-based ink washes, pastel chalk, and artist’s oils, gave the ship color. It sails in a sea of acrylic gel medium that Gil sculpted, painted, and coated with clear acrylic gloss.

▲ MICHAEL GONDORSTRATFORD, CONNECTICUT Michael used Tamiya acrylics, Testors enamels, and Grumbacher artist’s oils to paint Andrea Miniatures’ 90mm French Cuirassier as a corporal of the 7th Regiment.

▲ BRIAN DUDDYLeROY, NEW YORKTo re-create the final scene from “Kelly’s Heroes,” Brian added a Formations conversion set to Tamiya’s 1/35 scale Sherman. Figures from Jaguar and New Horizon crew the vehicle, which is painted with Testors Model Master Russian armor green and weathered with artist’s oil washes and pastels. He mounted the tank and some Verlinden buildings inside a television.


◀ FLOYD S. WERNER JR.PARKVILLE, MARYLANDTo model a North Vietnamese MiG-21PFM, Floyd added all of the Eduard Brassin parts he could get his hands on. He camouflaged the Eduard 1/48 scale kit with Tamiya acrylics sprayed freehand over Alclad II metallic lac-quers.

▶ BOB CICCONIWEST CHESTER, PENNSYLVANIAThe Miller 91 driven by Ralph Hepburn at the 1929 Indianapolis 500 was revolu-tionary. In addition to a super-charger, the aerodynamic, low-profile car featured front-wheel drive. Bob detailed Historic Racing Miniatures’ 1/25 scale multimedia kit with spark-plug wires and throttle linkage. To finish the Packard Cable Special livery, he decanted Tamiya spray-can lav-ender and airbrushed it. Testors dark yellow finished the car.

Show Gallery


MIKE WITKOWSKIWALLOPS ISLAND, VIRGINIAMike built Hasegawa’s 1/48 scale Junkers Ju 87 nightfighter out of the box and airbrushed Polly Scale acrylics through an Iwata Eclipse. He faded and wore the paint, especially the worms.

▶ GIAN MONTECALVONORTH PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND Gian’s Tamiya 1/35 scale T-55 boasts a bunch of extra detail, including fuel lines, M.V. Products lenses, Friulmodel metal tracks, a turned-metal barrel from Jordi Rubio, and scratchbuilt front fender and exhaust cover. Tamiya acrylics and Testors Model Master enamels finished it as an Iraqi tank. It sits on ground-work made from spackle with peat moss for texture and dye for color. Gian cast the background wall in plaster.


▲ MIKE SCHINECHESAPEAKE, VIRGINIACutting Edge Pyn-up decals made it possible for Mike to build a P-40E flown by his great-uncle, Lt. Monty Eisenberg, in Darwin, Australia, circa 1942. After pre-shading with Testors Model Master black enamel, he sprayed neutral gray underneath and a mix of olive drab and a few drops of field drab on top. Panel lines were emphasized with an acrylic wash of burnt umber, brown, and black.

▲ MARK YOUNGPLINY, WEST VIRGINIAThere’s no missing Mark’s 1/48 scale B-24, but that’s the point of assembly ships. Working with Monogram’s kit and Testors Model Master enamels, Mark sprayed the olive drab and gray camouflage. He masked and sprayed the yellow and then the black stripes. Decals from the 1989 San Diego IPMS/USA National Convention mark it as Lemon Drop from the 44th Bomb Group.

▲ JOSEPH BERGMANEAST ELMHURST, NEW YORK“Ladies and gentlemen, the Beatles!” Or a 1/7 scale version of the Fab Four’s American debut on “The Ed Sullivan Show” in 1964. Joseph built the figures from Posthumous Productions, detailing the guitars and bass and scratchbuilding Ringo’s drum set from PVC tubes. He colored the display with Tamiya acrylics, artist’s oil washes, and chalk pastels.

Show Gallery


▲ TONY ZADROMARIETTA, GEORGIAA German soldier hooks dinner in “A Day of R & R.” Tony detailed the cab of Scale Model Accessories’ 1/35 scale Faun ZRS tractor, then painted it with Testors Model Master and LifeColor acrylics sprayed through his Aztek brush. He constructed the bridge from basswood and Grandt Line bolts over a river of Magic Water filled with 28 fish.

▲ YANCEY CHRISTOPHERBURLINGTON, NORTH CAROLINAYancey wired and plumbed the instrument panels and bulkheads as well as the recovery section on Atomic City’s 1/12 scale Mercury capsule. He painted the pioneering ship with Testors Model Master enamels and Metalizers. When the decals proved translucent, Yancey hand-painted the markings for Scott Carpenter’s Aurora 7. “While showing it to the guys at IPMS George Preddy (Jamestown, N.C.), I dropped it on the table to the horror of the club members,” says Yancey. “I could only tell them it needed a G-load test anyway as I picked up the pieces.”


▲ DEKKER ZIMMERMANCOLORADO SPRINGS, COLORADODekker built Cyber-hobby’s 1/35 scale late-war Panther bearing a PzKpfw IV turret with Friulmodel tracks. He sprayed the three-color camouflage using Tamiya acrylic, then applied artist’s oil washes to make the detail pop. Paint chips —Vallejo acrylics dabbed on with a fine brush — and pastel powders and pigments finished the weathering. FSM

JERRY CREAGERBIRMINGHAM, ALABAMAEntering service in January 1915, the G.I was the first of Germany’s famous Gotha bombers. Although only 20 were built, they led the way for the later versions that bombed England. Jerry scratchbuilt a 1/48 scale G.I, armed it with Parabellum machine guns from Tom’s Modelworks, and painted it with Tamiya acrylics.


Light touches for an Afrika Korps SdKfz 7/1 • BY FAUSTO MUTO

for small-scale armor

Artillery mount, personnel carrier, recovery vehicle, V2 rocket bed: The SdKfz 7 halftrack’s versatility led to more than 3,200 produced by 1944. Revell Germany’s 1/72 scale SdKfz 7/1 kit (No. 80-3195) provides for

four versions. I built mine for the 15th Panzer Division, Deutsches Afrika Korps, at Tripoli, Libya, in 1941.

1/ 72 Scale

Fausto gave his 1/72 scale SdKfz 7/1 a multilayered finish. In this scale, a light touch is necessary to avoid obscuring detail — all the more so with several layers of color effects.

1 2After priming with Molak panzer gray enamel, Fausto airbrushed acrylic flat black into recessed details. He says, “Pinpoint accuracy is not necessary. In fact, smears help the full chromatic effect later.”

Next came a dry-brushing of white over the entire vehicle; this would complete the pre-shading undercoats and provide highlights and contrast in subsequent layers.

MULTILEVEL FINISHING


3 4

5 6

Vallejo Model Air dark yellow is lightly airbrushed for the base color. A mist of Vallejo Model Air dark earth restores some of the shadowing.

7 8

Dry-brushing a pale shade of the base color provides highlights … … toned down by airbrushing another misty layer of the base color that serves as a unifying glaze coat.

After using black Pelikan drawing ink on a fine brush to pick out rivets, locks, and panel lines, Fausto dry-brushed broad areas with LifeColor light gray stone — a harbinger of further weathering.

Fausto sprays a clear gloss, waits at least 8 hours, then applies decals. He waits another full day, then hand-brushes the same gloss to smooth decal edges. When that cures, he over-coats with Tamiya spray-can flat clear.

9 10Thinned 80 percent or more, filter coats of Winsor & Newton artist’s oils — blue, green, and orange — provide depth and variety to the finish. A little rubbing reveals underlying primer, a good effect on the fenders.

A dark artist’s oil wash deepens recessed details. Fausto applies the wash, waits 10 minutes, then blends with a brush soaked in thinner. Finishing touches of pastels and powders complete the heavy weathering. FSM


Using a packaged set to model light and shadow with color • BY COOKIE SEWELLfor armor

I used to enjoy the “Bloom County” comic strip. In one episode, Opus the Penguin, attracted to any new item shown on TV, found himself with thousands of “turnip twaddlers” in his liv-ing room — and he didn’t even like turnips! Modelers can be the same way: When a “breakthrough” product or method comes to light, everyone has to try it.

Recently, new finishing techniques are all the rage as mod-elers develop their own or adopt those of others with salt

chipping, hairspray weathering, filters, glazes, and “color modula-tion,” which is based on classic painting methods to suggest the play of light and shadow on a subject. When I received a color-modulation package for Christmas — AK Interactive’s 4BO Russian Green Special Modulation Set (No. AK-028) — I decided to try it for myself.

Whether you use a packaged set according to directions or mix

your own complementary washes, filters, and highlights, you can balance the new application with your old regimens as you wish.

The modelThe subject of AK’s instructions was Tamiya’s 1/35 scale BT-7 tank. I had already built one of those, so I opted for the similar Italeri BT-5 (kit No. 272), originally a Zvezda kit (No. 3507).

When Zvezda’s BT-5 came out in 1992, it was widely recog-nized as the best kit ever from Russia — injection-molded styrene and relatively accurate. But, over the years, things have improved. Among the biggest changes is the availability of high-quality research and historical books by Russian authors with first-rate 1/35 scale plans. As it turns out, like many other kits from 20 years ago, this BT-5 is not as good as it seemed then. I decided I should fix the main errors before painting.

1/ 35 ScaleCookie Sewell was building armor long before anyone ever heard of color modulation for models — but he decided to try the technique and see what all the fuss was about. The directions that came with his AK Interactive color-modulation set showed a Russian BT-7. He chose a similar tank, the Italeri (originally Zvezda) BT-5.

Color modulation


ConstructionI had four basic items on hand: the Italeri BT-5 kit; leftover parts of an Eastern Express BT-7 Model 1935; a complete turret from a Tamiya BT-7 Model 1935; and an Eduard photoetched-brass set made specifically for the Italeri BT-5. (Later, I added a figure from a Zvezda Soviet tank crew set.)

The main problems with the kit were twofold: It was 5mm too long in the hull (fenders had been shortened to hide the fact) and it sat 3.5mm too high.

Both problems meant the hull would have to be shortened and the suspension redistributed.

Consulting plans, I found the hull was 3mm too long between the second and third road wheels and 2mm too long between the third and fourth road wheels. The BT-5 kit uses inner and outer hull sections, so I shortened the inner hull sides and belly panel, 1. But now the cut-up sides and belly plate were weak; I added sty-rene reinforcement panels to the floor, too, 2. The Eastern Express kit gave up its road-wheel arms and steering gear for the accurized hull, 3.

The hull sides were not accurate, either — BT-5s have two joined outer hull plates; BT-7s have three outer plates. So did the Zvezda kit (incorrectly). I scratchbuilt new side plates and added rivets and bolt heads that I cut from round and hex styrene rods with a NorthWest Short Line “Chopper II,” 4.

Getting the wheels aligned was tougher than I thought, and the road-wheel arms were on and off several times before I got the geometry straight. The proper sit has the bottom of the axle end of the road-wheel arm about a millimeter above the bottom of the hull. Spacing to get the wheels the proper distance from each other

also took time; note that the rear wheels are fixed in place, relative to the drivers, 5.

To compare the kit and the modified model, I put the “test mule” I built in 1993 on top of the new hull. Note that the road wheels and driver and idler are more nearly level across the top, 6.

Next, I added the kit tracks, 7. The new track runs are two links shorter than the original version and came up a quarter of a link short. I solved this by cutting the hinge areas off the spare links, and the hinges proper off the top, long section runs. After sanding things flush, I cemented the hinge sections to the track runs and presto! a quarter link longer and nearly invisible installed, 8. The front end is cemented in place between road wheels 1 and 2, and

1 2Styrene plates back the cuts Cookie made to correct the length of the hull, holding it together.

Styrene strips on the floor further reinforce the sectioned hull, restoring its strength.

3 4

5

Steering and road-wheel arms (gray parts) come from Cookie’s Eastern Express BT-7.

The kit’s hull sides (top) had too many panels. Cookie built new, more accurate hull sides from sheet styrene, using sliced styrene hex and round rods for bolts and rivets.

Despite all the measurements, the correct wheel position and alignment was determined by trial and error. Getting all 16 wheels on the ground took several attempts and adjustments.


the rear end is loose, just in front of road wheel 3.With the tracks installed, the new “sit” of the model is even

more apparent, 9. As mentioned earlier, Zvezda trimmed down the rear fenders by

5mm to achieve the correct overall length — 165.7mm in 1/35 scale. So, when adding fenders, the rear sections must be extended, 10. There are also splash plates inboard to block mud and dirt thrown up by the tracks (not on the original kit). The rear of the hull also was missing many small details, which I added later.

I chose the lovely Tamiya turret with its one-piece rail-type antenna. It’s from the BT-7 Model 1935, identical to the produc-tion BT-5 Model 1933 turret, and it comes with the rail antenna of the radio (command) version. The only things missing were the bolts holding the mounts to the sides of the turret. I used slices of

Plastruct hex rod for that, 11. Planning for a figure, I left the hatch open but did not detail the inside of the turret.

The turret was designed for a BT-7 hull, which is wider than a BT-5, so the turret races were incompatible. I cut smaller races from thick styrene and attached them to the bottom of the turret.

Aft, I added the radiator air exhaust: two scratchbuilt louvers and braces followed by an Eduard photoetched-metal grille, 12. I hollowed the muffler exhaust ports, trimming off the kit mounts and mounting the twin exhaust feeds lower and at an upward angle. Two small braces are made from styrene strip with hex bolt heads. I used the twin jacks from the Eastern Express kit with new styrene bases and bolt heads all around, including the final-drive units. The taillight came from the Eastern Express kit, too.

The kit headlights weren’t very good. But the front fenders were

6

8

7

9

Cookie compared his suspension (bottom) with that of the BT-7 he built years ago and found his recent effort more accurate.

Cookie preferred Tamiya’s BT-7 turret. He sliced hex-shaped styrene rods for more bolts as needed.

Cookie cut track hinges to stretch the top run as needed. You can see the splices between the forward two road wheels and just forward of the third wheel in line. Both will be mostly hidden under fenders.

Cookie‘s corrections shortened the hull but lengthened the fenders — sheet styrene extended the fenders aft and provided splash plates there, too.

The kit tracks were off by only a quarter of a link — but that was enough to require a rework.

Again, comparison shows a more-accurate suspension and the proper track tension compared to the previous model above it.

1110

Splice Splice

Extended fender

New BT-5

Splash plate

Old BT-7


a bigger problem. The real fenders are pressed steel, more rounded and with smooth inside panels facing the hull; the kits’ fenders look more like a late-model BT-7. I just tried to get close: I sanded the fenders down over their front and top edges to get a more rounded look, 13. I used the lights from the BT-7 and routed them out to take new lenses later on.

Using the plans and some information from service manuals for the BT-5 and BT-7 (they often use the same photos for both), I made new radiator air-intake covers from styrene and installed them; they are curved at the front to permit the turret to swing clear, 14. The left one has four track links stored on top and a crosscut saw stowed underneath, both held in place with leather straps. The right side has two shovels, the track-tensioning wrench, and a tanker’s bar, all on top with leather straps. I used the kit straps for the sides.

That did it: The model was ready for painting, 15.

PaintingIn addition to primer and a clear varnish, AK Interactive’s modula-tion kit contains six bottles of acrylic colors:

• 4BO shadow (very dark green)• 4BO dark base (dark green)• 4BO base (the original 4BO green color)• 4BO light base (a lighter shade for upper surfaces)• 4BO highlight (an even lighter shade)• 4BO shine (much lighter)I passed up the primer in favor of my old friend, Floquil primer,

which is an enamel. Some modelers don’t mix mediums, but if you take care (emphasis here!) there is no problem using acrylics over

Sanding took the sharp edges off the front fenders, making them look at least a little more like those of a BT-5. The headlights are two more parts from the Eastern Express kit.

The rear hull shows white styrene additions, green kit parts, and gray Eastern Express parts for the taillight and two jacks. Photoetched-metal mesh over the exhaust louvers allows those details to show.

Engine intakes are rendered in sheet styrene; a cutout at the front of the intakes allows the turret to traverse.

With tools and straps in place on the tank, Cookie was ready to clean up the model and begin painting.

12

14 15

13

Engine intake

enamels or vice versa. Just be sure to allow sufficient drying time between coats.

I let the primer dry for 72 hours before starting with the AK finishing set, 16.

The first color I sprayed was the 4BO shadow. I have had vari-ous advice on airbrushing Vallejo paints — when in doubt, start with the belly of the model to see what happens. I thinned the paint, sprayed at low pressure (8-10 psi), and the results were awful, 17. But after cleaning out the airbrush, I tried it straight from the bottle at 25 psi and it worked well, 18. I used this for all the lower sections of the model — belly, below and under the fenders, rear sides and behind the wheels, and anywhere dark, like the inside of the louvers and under the air intakes.

I waited 24 hours to give the first coat time to grip the primer before I applied 4BO dark base, 19. This finish goes over most of the upper part of the hull, sides and bottom rear of the turret, and the rear and front sides of the wheels.

The major color is the third one — 4BO base, 20. This is AK’s version of the actual Soviet “protective green” shade; it covers the entire top of the model, centers of the wheels, front upper, rear upper, tops of the fenders, and other salient upper surfaces.

The fourth shade, 4BO light base, 21, goes on the upper sides of the turret, turret front, turret rear, engine deck, sides above the fenders, driver’s area and front glacis, fender tops, and very center of the wheels.

The fifth shade is 4BO highlight, 22, used only for the tops of salients like the engine air intakes, radiator exhaust, gun barrel top, turret top and hatches, driver’s parapet top and folding covers, front fender tops, headlight tops, and mudguards at the rear.


The last color coat to go down is 4BO shine, 23, very light and bright green. I used it to dust just the tops of all major sections of the model, emphasizing the turret roof and front fender tops. Once that color is down and dry, the basic painting is complete.

Final in the order of painting are the tracks and details, 24. I base-coated the tracks, wheel rims, wheel tires, shovels, track adjustment tool, exhaust outlet interiors, DT machine gun, muzzle interior, and viewer insides with Tamiya flat black acrylic. The leather straps are painted Testors burnt sienna enamel with brass buckles. Floquil oxide brown enamel is the base for the muffler.

The start of the finishA high-quality finish starts with a coat of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM), 25. It helps level the paint, provides a

high-gloss finish for better decaling, and prevents weathering and aging coats from stripping off earlier paints.

While I was letting everything dry, I promoted the loader figure from the Zvezda tank crew to commander by swapping its helmet for one with goggles.

WeatheringI painted the entire model with AK Interactive wash for dark green vehicles (a brownish tint). These are enamel washes; you can wipe them off the PFM coat if it’s too much and you want to limit the effect. I mix about 60/40 wash-to-thinner because it’s very thick and dark. A similar AK wash, track color, weathered the tracks to a light brown patina. I ended this stage by dry-brushing the tracks with Rub ’n Buff silver leaf.

Floquil gray primer is Cookie’s personal preference. After giving it sufficient drying time, he has no trouble applying acrylic paints over it.

That’s better! Spraying the Vallejo paint straight from the bottle, Cookie applied dark coats in corners and recesses to deepen detail.

… followed by the main color, Russian 4BO, sprayed on the tops of the hull and the center of road wheels.

If you’re not sure of the paint or how to apply it, test it on the tank’s belly, Cookie says. This mess won’t show once the tank is on the table.

After 24 hours to let the first coat dry, Cookie sprayed the upper hull with the dark base …

A lighter shade of the base hits the heights on the turret, engine deck, and the hull’s sides.

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When those washes were dry, I turned to Abteilung 502 mud, an artist’s oil. I turned it into a thin, filter coat by placing small dots of the paint on the model and using a brush wet with thinner to spread and flow the oil paint into cracks, crevices, and panel lines. I wiped away the excess, leaving behind a subtle tint.

I applied an AK Interactive wash, dust effects, to the holes and notches of the rubber tires on the road wheels, then wiped it off. After it dried, I dry-brushed black artist’s oil over the outer sides of the tires and their tread surfaces, bringing back the black and leav-ing dust in the grooves and holes, 26.

I dry-brushed the muffler with five different colors: brown, rust, black, silver, and a top coat of Tamiya acrylics custom-mixed to match 4BO green.

Highlights come next, illuminating top surfaces.

Tracks are base-coated with acrylic flat black; burnt sienna enamel is the base for leather straps, while oxide brown is used for the muffler.

A light over-coat of “shine” is the brightest of all, highlighting only tip-top features.

A top coat of PFM is more receptive to decals, providing a smoothness that makes silvering less likely.

Dust coats settle in details; dry-brushed black restores color to the tires.

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Decals and outThe Italeri decal instructions note the markings as “Leningrad 1941.” Research revealed little, but, based on normal usage, the markings would be for “Tank 15” (some units used arbitrary desig-nators for security purposes), 2nd Battalion, 4th Company. I use Walthers Solvaset solution to make decals lay down; it bites into the PFM and makes a good, tight seal with the finish — but it’s very “hot” and can eat thin decals. Test it first.

Decals dry, I sprayed the model with Testors Dullcote. This layer blends the decals into the finish and further levels the paint.

Next came pastels – aka weathering powders or ground chalk. I used a dust color to lighten the finish, followed by a fine overspray of 50/50 Badger Modelflex mud and distilled water to shoot dust

For a truly lusterless, dead flat surface, Cookie recommends Floquil dust.

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and mud under the fenders. Then I oversprayed the model with Floquil dust — the flattest flat known to modelers, 27.

I painted the insides of the taillight flat black on the bottom and flat white on the top; when that dried, I added Testors stop-light red metallic to the taillight, 28.

I installed headlight lenses from PSP Models. The finishing touch was to put drops of PFM on the lights and the commander’s goggles, 29.

Final analysisUsing a color modulation set was an interesting exercise. If this is a new technique for you, it’s a great way to experience and learn about painting that emphasizes light and shadows to bring out the shapes and details of a model. I especially liked what the AK treat-ments did to give the running gear the right look.

However, the effects fade somewhat if you continue to weather with subsequent layers of washes, filters, and pastels. So, even with the new products and techniques, it still holds true that one of the finer skills of modeling is knowing when to stop. FSM

More at www.FineScale.comLearn the lingo! Visit our website for Cookie’s own glossary of model- painting, weathering, and finishing terms.

A drop of PFM on each lens replicates glass in the commander’s goggles.

Cumulative effects: Attention to detail, along with spare parts, photoetched metal, layered painting, and light weathering, add up on the rear hull.

Bottom to top, darker to brighter: Color modulation emphasizes the shape of the tank by mimicking the effects of light. Subtlety is essential to a convincing finish. If you can see it right away, it’s too much!

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Use styrene and brass rod for more than scratchbuilding • BY JOSEPH BOSSERT

REPAIR A SHIP’S RUDDEREncore’s 1/232 scale USS Olympia

(No. 85001) looked like it would be a fun ship to build, and that’s just what I wanted. My intention was to build

it straight from the box and spend no time researching beyond reading the historical information provided in the instructions.

The hull comes in port and starboard halves that end up sandwiching the rudder

pin between two C-shaped protrusions that form a knuckle. The knuckle captures the pin but still allows modelers to pose the rudder. It’s a poor arrangement — the pro-trusions are weak and glue can lock up the rudder regardless of the amount of care taken. One option I considered was to install the rudder after joining the hull halves, but there’s no way to insert the pin.

Fortunately, I was able to assemble the hull without glue locking the rudder. Unfortunately, it didn’t take long or much handling before one of the hinges broke.

Now what? In my exasperation, I was tempted to just glue it back on and be done with it, but I wanted to be able to pose the rudder. So, I picked up some styrene strip and brass rod to make a better fix. (continued)

Joseph intended to build Encore’s 1/232 scale USS Olympia out of the box. But then the hinges for the rudder broke. What’s a modeler to do? He turned to his shipyard full of styrene strip and brass rod and got to work.

| FSM BASICS |


1 2The instructions show the rudder’s molded-on pin captured between the hull halves.

The central knuckle has been removed and replaced with .020" x .040" styrene strip super glued in place and sanded to shape. The lower knuckle was reinforced with .010" x .020" styrene strip and shaped. The top of the rudder pin broke off in the hull.

3 4I removed the central rudder pin and filed the slot in the rudder to fit around the newly made knuckle.

I drilled new holes through the knuckles and stern with a 1⁄16" bit in a pin vise.

5 6After removing the remnant of the original rudder pin with a hobby knife, I used the pin vise to drill a matching 1⁄16" hole through the rudder.

A 1⁄16"-diameter brass rod inserted through the rudder and knuckles only needs to be cut and glued at the bottom to hold everything in place. I can also paint the rudder separately — something that wasn’t possible with the kit’s design. FSM


Questions & AnswersA clinic for your modeling problemsBy Aaron Skinner

Getting the hang of puttyQ Whenever I apply putty to fill a gap, say at a wing root or between air scoops, I always end up applying a lot and have to sand it away. Is there a way to apply just enough and not waste so much?– Shishir PhansalkarMumbai, Maharashtra, India

A Filling seams with putty usually goes pretty much as you described.

Part of the reason we tell modelers to apply more putty than necessary is because traditional putties — Squadron, Testors, etc. — shrink as they dry. To avoid the issue, use a putty that doesn’t shrink. In the past, that meant a two-part epoxy putty, such as Milliput. After application, they can be smoothed with a wet finger to reduce the amount of sanding.

The other, and I think better option, is one of the new water-based putties, such as Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. It doesn’t need to be mixed, doesn’t shrink, and can be worked with a wet finger or cot-ton swab. It’s great for applying to tight spaces like wing roots.

Taking Future out of an airbrushQ I own an Aztek airbrush. What should I use to clean my airbrush after spraying Pledge Future floor polish?– Douglas BaroneBuffalo, N.Y.

A The best way to remove Future (now known as Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish) is with an ammonia-based cleaner like Windex. Pour a little into the paint cup or bottle and spray it through the brush. Then flush it immediately with water to remove the ammonia, which can damage brass parts in the brush.

Never let airbrush parts soak in ammo-nia, even if there is a lot of hardened paint.

This is why it’s important to clean your air-brush immediately after you use it.

Using Silly Putty for maskingQ How do you use Silly Putty for mask-ing? Also, what happens to it when it is sprayed with different kinds of paint? Will the putty still be good?– Alexis VinerBrossard, Quebec, Canada

A Silly Putty is easy to use and very forgiving. Simply take piece of putty and push it into place on the model. Be careful around fragile parts; it’s easy to break them during placement and removal. The putty will settle into surface detail and form a seal. Paint the model, then remove the putty to reveal a hard edge between the colors.

A couple of things to be aware of: The putty will stay on the surface pretty well, but be careful when using more putty. It sticks better to itself, so it can come off easily.

The putty doesn’t seem to be affected by the paint. Kneading the ball of putty after removing from the model disperses the paint through the putty. I’m sure after many uses that it may be a problem. But I have one batch I have used for a six or seven models, and it is still going strong. Hunting early U-boatsQ Do you know of any models of World War I German submarines? – Calvin BateyElkhart, Ind.

A Kits of early subs are rare, but you are in luck. Combrig (www.combrig-models.com), a Russian company, makes several resin kits of early U-boats in 1/350 scale. Available kits include the a UB I-class coastal sub, a UE 1 minelayer, U -75, and U-78. In the United States, Combrig kits are carried by Free Time Hobbies, 706-946-1120, www.freetimehobbies.com. (continued)

Got a modeling problem? Our Questions & Answers column is here to help. E-mail [email protected], or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We are not able to conduct lengthy research, such as answering questions on markings and unit histories. We publish letters of general interest in the magazine; however, mail volume and space limitations prevent us from printing every question. Please include your name, town, state, and a daytime phone number.

Clearing a sticky situation

Q I sometimes have trouble removing residue left on clear parts by Bare-Metal Foil or Eduard pre-cut masks. I dip canopies and other clear parts in Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) prior to masking and painting. What is the best solution to remove masking residue without dam-aging the PFM coating on the clear parts?– Brandon Chutich, Bothell, Wash.

A The best stuff for removing adhesive residue from clear parts is Goo Gone (www.googone.com) from Weiman Products. It is nontoxic, easy to apply, and shouldn’t affect the paint or PFM. It smells good, too! After removing the foil or tape, get a little Goo Gone on a cot-ton swab and rub it lightly over the affected area. The residue should disap-pear quickly. You can wipe away the remainder with a clean swab. If you are concerned about it affecting the paint, test it first. One caveat: Make sure you get the original Goo Gone, rather than the anything labeled with “Pro-Power.” That product is much stronger and will dissolve paint.


Questions & Answers

Working a small section at a time prevents the putty from drying too soon and becoming unworkable.

Here’s a completed section. If you make a mistake or mark it with a fingerprint, a coat of liquid cement will soften the putty for repairs.

Make sure the putty is uniformly thick — about .5mm — and smooth.

Small bits of tape are perfect for replicating battle damage or chipped Zimmerit. Add them before the putty.

Press slowly and carefully. The ridges don’t need to be perfect, but they should be basically the same size, shape, and depth.

Removing the tape masks after you’ve finished making the Zimmerit pattern leaves a jagged edge, just as on a full-size panzer.

Alternative to kit Zimmerit

Q I want to build a King Tiger that has been destroyed by fire. I don’t want to tear up a kit with molded Zimmerit, and I’m a little nervous about making my own. I was wondering if there is aftermarket Zimmerit available in sheet form that I can cut to suit the model?– Richard FairbothamJane Brook, Western Australia, Australia

A There are several options for aftermarket add-on Zimmerit in both resin and photoetched metal. Look for products from Atak, Cavalier, Royal Models, Eduard, and Verlinden. Additionally, Tamiya makes a set of self-adhesive vinyl Zimmerit designed for its recently released 1/35 scale King Tiger.

On a destroyed vehicle, you may be better off making your own Zimmerit. We published a terrific story on the subject by Robert Oehler in May 2002. You can or-der back issues at www.FineScale.com/BackIssues or by calling Kalmbach cus-tomer service at 800-533-6644 (interna-tional 262-796-8776).

King Tigers appear to have only worn the ridged Zimmerit pattern. Here’s the basic rundown on a technique that will work well using putty:

Mask a small area, 1. Using a razor blade as a trowel, apply putty to the sec-tion, 2. You need to use a putty that doesn’t shrink too much as it dries but is rigid enough to hold shapes, such as Tamiya basic putty or a two-part epoxy putty like Milliput.

After 10-15 seconds — long enough for a skin to form on the putty — push the tip of a 3mm-wide standard screwdriver into the putty, 3. Start at the top of each

section, holding the blade parallel to the horizontal plane of the model. Continue making indentations to create column of ridges. Work column by column until the masked area is filled, then remove the tape and mask the next section, 4.

To simulate battle damage and chipped Zimmerit, tear small, irregular swatches of tape and position them on the model be-fore adding the putty, 5. When the tape is pulled off after the pattern is impressed, it will leave natural-looking chips, 6.

Repeat these steps until the side of the model is completely covered. If you mar the Zimmerit with a fingerprint, soften it with a generous coat of liquid cement, smooth it out, let it skin over again, and reapply the pattern.

Set the model aside for 24 hours, then sand with 1000-grit paper to remove ex-cess putty and even out the surface. A light brushing of liquid cement removes surface debris. FSM

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Examples of samplesI’m a scenic designer for Chicago theatre, and sometimes I need carpet or linoleum samples to show a director. Big-box stores like Menards, Lowe’s, and Home Depot, as well as carpet stores, give free samples that are usually in the open; you can help your-self. The samples I get are about 6" x 5". You can also put several together or mix them up for dioramas, model display, figure bases, and so on. There are many varieties of color, pile, texture, and even several grass colors. Many linoleum samples have stone designs. If you find one that you want, just glue it to your base and you’re ready to dis-play. Or, you can use the carpet or linoleum as a base and go over it with groundwork or some other surface. – Charles PaliaLisle, Ill.

Blu-Tack begoneIf you use Blu-Tack for masking soft-edge camouflage patterns, sometimes it leaves a greasy looking stain behind. No need to repaint. Just roll a ball of Blu-Tack in your hands to warm it. Then roll it over the stains and voila! they are gone.– Mikko LehtonenTampere, Finland

3M finishing padsSanding the compound curves of jet intakes can be made much easier using an angled pair of tweezers and a 3M Between Coats Finishing Pad, a finer version of a 3M Scotch-Brite pad (look in the paint depart-ment). The “Between Coats” pad works great because it sands on all sides, doesn’t clog with sanding dust, and conforms to curved surfaces without creating flat spots. Once your favorite putty cures, take a small (1" x 1") square of the pad, grab it with angled tweezers, and gently sand away. You’ll have a smooth intake in no time. – Nathan SlesingerBellingham, Wash.

Shiny stickers for freeFor that shiny trim on a truck mudflap, I save the silvery stickers often enclosed in mail from the American Automobile Association (AAA). – Dan ToporekExton, Pa.

Flannel for handlingFingerprints can ruin a beautiful finish on a model. I usually have several pairs of white gloves around, but I get tired of putting them on and taking them off during the touch-up phase. Instead, I cut 1"- or 2"-wide strips of flannel and wrap them around frequently handled areas (such as wings). Secure the strip by wrapping mask-ing tape around the flannel. – Richard DaymontGulfport, Miss.

Chair-mat parts catcherHaving lost countless tiny parts to the dreaded carpet monster, I finally figured out an answer when I dropped something small

from my office desk: There it was, clearly visible on the clear-plastic chair mat that permits office chairs to roll easily. I got a few from a local big-box office supply store, laid them on the carpet in my assembly workshop, and immediately stopped losing

Don likes his new, bigger air-pressure gauges for readability and precision to take guesswork out of airbrushing.Carpet, tile, and linoleum samples aren’t just for interior-decorating decisions — the right one can be

a key ingredient in an easy-to-make display base.Gauging your gaugeWhile looking for a better tire gauge, I found just what I needed — and for less than $10! Upon closer examination, it struck me that this is the gauge size I need for my paint booth.

In almost every article I have ever read about air-brushing, people mention the preferred air pressure for whatever type of air-brush they use. But every air compressor I’ve ever seen has a small gauge that ranges from 0-160 psi. That makes it a real trick to set your airbrush at 12-15psi.

In the picture, you can see my old gauge in the middle. What a difference the new gauge makes — nearly twice the size and half the pressure range. Much easier to read! – Don Poggemiller, Burlington, Iowa

Would you like to share an idea about a tool or technique? Send a brief description along with a photograph or sketch to “Reader Tips.” E-mail [email protected] or visit FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” Tips are paid for upon publication; if you live in the U.S., we’ll need your Social Security number to pay you. FSM obtains all publication rights (including electronic rights) to the text and images upon payment.

Reader TipsSolutions and innovationsBy Mark Hembree


Reader Tipsdropped parts. The mat also protects against spilled glue and paint.

My mats cost about $29 each. I needed three, but they were well worth it. Three years later, they are still in great shape.– Ned BarnettLas Vegas, Nev.

Sanding supplies in cosmeticsWhat do you do when your local hobby shop is 25 miles across town and the craft store down the street stops carrying the sanding sticks you like? Go shopping for women’s cosmetic supplies! You can find sanding sticks and sponges in myriad grits and textures to meet all your sanding needs. I’ve been able to pick up useful extra-fine, fine, medium, and coarse sanding sticks, as well as sanding sponges and a wood sand-ing stick with coarse ends for getting into hard-to-reach areas. – Gerald BakerEl Paso, Texas

Sandpaper walkwaysI’m an airplane builder, and I’ve done this several times: For aircraft that have nonskid walkways on the wing, I use 600-grit wet/dry sandpaper. It’s easy to trim, and you can attach it with white glue. Thin and flat black, it’s easy to cut to size and has the right look. No masking or painting is required, and it’s easy to age or weather. I’m sure this technique could also be applied to other types of models. – Bob BroughtonCarlsbad, Calif.

Focusing on lensesI’ve found a way to simulate glass for pho-toetched-metal instrument gauges. I place clear tape over all the instrument faces. Trim the tape to fit the instrument panel, then glue the layer of photoetched metal over it.

I use 3M packaging tape because it is

slightly thicker than Scotch tape and seems to have a more glass-like effect. However, the packaging tape is a little harder to work with.

Make sure the visible portions of tape are free from fingerprints and other smudges before installing it. Also, don’t extend the tape beyond the edges of the photoetched-metal panel.– Steve BakFranklin, Wis.

Stop flipping instructionsWhen I start working on a new model, and the painting key is on the first page of a multipage instruction set, I copy the paint-ing key so I don’t have to keep flipping back and forth in the instructions during the build. – Bill HardieJacksonville, Fla.

Diamond-plate foil sourceBig containers of Nestlé Coffee-mate pow-dered creamer have a foil lining that is excellent diamond-plate material. It’s thin, and one package gives you a pretty big piece to use — after you’re through with your coffee, of course. – Raymond RodychRegina, Saskatchewan, Canada

Pre-damaging modelsWhenever working with smooth styrene — whether it is an armor model or a wall rep-resenting a concrete abutment — I will distress it before painting. Using a motor tool and a tiny round-headed bit, I make

small nicks and gouges so the surface looks damaged or old.

On an armor project, this can be the appearance of battle damage or a poor metal casting. On items representing con-crete, it will appear as bug-holes (air pock-ets) created during the pouring process, or popped/chipped areas from ice or rusting steel reinforcing bars. – Darrell MenzerSheboygan, Wis.

Flashlight parts for modelingI found a great source for antenna wire and control cables. You know those “shake and shine” flashlights? I tore apart two of them and came up with a lifetime (almost) sup-ply of copper wire I can use in all kinds of ways. The smaller flashlight yields very fine wire that could be used for antennas. The larger flashlight has wire that is a little thinner than telephone wire and could be used for control cables. – Steve SchlagerCasper, Wyo.

Good for manicure, makeup, or modeling: Shop health and beauty-aid departments for a variety of gentle sanding sticks and pads.

Along with pre-shading this wall-to-be, Darrell “prepares” its surface with chips and divots for realistic irregularities in a concrete surface.

Steve’s not thrilled with the performance of inexpensive flashlights, but says the fine wire inside has many uses.

Between cups of coffee, Raymond likes to model using the creamer’s foil lining.

• Paint easy camouflage patterns with soft masks• Apply washes for depth and realism• Add wear and tear with pastels and dry-brushing• Get perfectly accented panel lines with a sludge wash

Essential FinishingTechniques

6181502013

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REALISTIC FIELD-APPLIED CAMOUFLAGESTEP-BY-STEP

BEYOND THE BOX: WE BUILD AND REVIEW 10 ALL-NEW KITS

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Kitbash and scratchbuild with styrene

to create a super-sized KV-220 – p.28

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AIRBRUSH CAMOUFLAGE

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Backdate a historic F-14 Tomcat p.22

Model a dazzling German torpedo boat p.20

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FSM evaluations of new kits on the market

Workbench Reviews


Finally! An F-101A to go with my Monogram F-101B from the early 1980s.

The kit comes molded in a medium dark blue gray plastic that’s a bit brittle, especially when it comes to the more deli-cate parts.

The kit supplies one Genie missile and four Falcon missiles, but there’s no place to put them. The parts are probably in the box for a future B model; I know for a fact

Kitty Hawk is coming out with an RF-101G/H, the shorter-nosed recon ver-sion with panoramic cameras, because the nose glass for that model is in the box, too.

You also get a fret of photoetched metal with seat belts, instrument and side-console pieces, and splitter-plate braces that go between the splitter plates and the fuselage. Unfortunately, being so small, a few of them snapped out of my tweezers into oblivion; the others didn’t fit properly.

(Sometimes, I think, manufacturers go a lit-tle too far with photoetched metal.)

The decals feature markings for four air-craft, all from the 81st Tactical Fighter Wing at the twin Royal Air Force stations of Bentwaters and Woodbridge in Suffolk, England, in the early 1960s. The markings I chose happen to be my favorite — the multicolored tail — but they cover the whole tail, which isn’t accurate. I trimmed the decals to better represent the real mark-ings. Also, the blue could be a little lighter, and the red stripes in the stars-and-bars insignia were out of register. I replaced them with some AeroMaster spares I had.

In Step 1, the cockpit, the color callouts are wrong. They call for FS35237, blue gray, but it should be FS36231, dark gull gray. The seat cushions should be green; pick your shade (FS34079, dark green, works for me). The kit provides photoetched metal or decals for the instrument panel and side consoles; I used both. It gives the decals a little relief, and it’s easier than hand-paint-ing the metal.

In Step 2, the nose-gear wheel and bay, again, the color is wrong. Instead of FS34102, the medium green used for Vietnam-era fighter aircraft, it should be FS34151, interior green.

The nose gear is fragile. On mine, Part C11 snapped in half. (Leave the nose gear off until final assembly.) This subassembly is glued to the bottom of the cockpit

Kitty Hawk conjures early Voodoo

Photoetched metal dresses up the Voodoo’s cockpit with a harness, instrument panel, and side consoles.


assembly from Step 1 and gets sandwiched between the forward fuselage halves, parts B2 and B13. The nose halves (A12 and A13) contain an optional refueling probe. I didn’t use it; I just glued the refueling doors closed. You won’t need the nose weight, either.

Gun muzzles (parts A1, A2, A6, and A7) are installed in Step 5. They need a lot of blending with a file and sanding sticks. I used thick super glue to fill sink marks on the undersides of the gun fairing, blending it in with a file and sanding stick.

Now, pay attention: Steps 6 and 7 deal with the intake and exhaust assemblies and their insertion in the upper and lower fuse-lage halves (parts C4 and C5). If you follow the instructions, the main fuselage and the forward assemblies won’t line up properly. I nipped off the two forward locator pins on the intake assembly, then shaved down the area on part C4 where it contacts the bot-tom of the intake assembly. (Lots of trim-ming and fitting here.) Dry-fit this whole assembly and check it with the forward fuselage. To make sure it fits, pinch the top and bottom pieces of the main fuselage until you get a smooth match between the

front and main fuselage assemblies. Now, glue all the subassemblies, intake assembly and exhausts, plus the boat-tail assembly, to the bottom main fuselage. Glue only the rear mounting pins on the intakes; leave the front loose. Glue the top piece to the lower piece (main fuselage) only in back of the intake assembly. After the glue dries com-pletely and the seams are blended (they don’t have to be perfect), the wing assem-blies will cover most of it.

Next, plug the forward fuselage into the main fuselage, but glue only across the top of the fuselage. Let this dry completely. When that’s dry, clamp the main fuselage, top to bottom, until the bottom seam is flush.

Let this dry completely. If you do it right, you won’t need any filler for the seams — just a few swipes with a sanding stick! Leave the wings off. It makes for eas-ier joining of the aforementioned subas-semblies.

As in the nose-gear bay, main-gear bays should be interior green. Make the main-gear locator holes a little bigger and deeper.

The speed brakes in Step 15 have mon-strous sink holes that must be filled. I glued the brakes closed after the body work; I didn’t want to ruin the plane’s lines.

Painting and decaling were uneventful except for the modifications to the tail markings. However, there are no wingtip lights. Also, all the slime lights should be

removed — they weren’t on the A or C variants.

This build took me about 38 hours, a little longer than usual because of the fit issues. Still, the model scales out correctly and it turned out nice. But beginners won’t have much luck with this one — it takes some experience to charm a good Voodoo out of this box.

– Larry Schramm

Kit: No. KH80115 Scale: 1/48Manufacturer: Kitty Hawk, www.kittyhawkmodel.comPrice: $54.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 190 parts (23 photoetched metal), decals Pros: Long-awaited Century-series jet; nice markings (although mine needed modifications for the subject and the red was out of register).Cons: Poor fits; sinkholes (massive on speed brakes); brittle plastic

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Workbench Reviews

Despite being the first purpose-built attack helicopter, the initial version of Bell’s AH-1 Cobra has been nearly

ignored by kit manufacturers until now. Special Hobby’s new kit relieves the suffer-ing of the 1/72 scale community with a gem of a kit.

This appears to be a significant step up in quality for the Czech manufacturer, noted for its variety of short-run offerings. The parts are crisply molded with fine recessed details and flash-free tiny details. Even the well-detailed cockpit fits inside the fuselage without modification. Major parts feature alignment pins/holes, unlike many previous Special Hobby models.

Included in the kit are several options: choice of the early tail with the torque rotor on the left side; early or beefed-up landing skids; three turret configurations (the empty one is a resin add-in); rocket pods; minigun pods; and the M35 Vulcan 20mm cannon with fuselage ammunition saddles. A tow bar and wheels are also provided. Decals include markings for six Cobras: two in Vietnam service and four weapons trainers. The instrument panel decals look OK, but there’s an ad in the instructions for Eduard’s color photoetched-metal detail set and resin seats.

The fit of the parts is good — the fitting of the parts, however, not so much. Let me

explain: Special Hobby’s gorgeous color instructions devote a page to the parts map, seven full pages of five-view paint/markings diagrams, but only two and a half pages to the 21-step assembly sequence. The small diagrams show the small parts even smaller than they are, making it difficult to deter-mine how and where they attach. A few parts are impractically small; the tiny clear anticollision beacon is less than a millime-ter long and maybe a half millimeter in diameter. I somehow managed to install it with my finest tweezers, but I had to hold my breath lest I blow the tiny orb onto my parts-eating carpet.

One of the options is a choice of main rotor masts and the accompanying mount for the top of the fuselage. The assemblies look different and the instructions offer a choice, but they don’t explain why you would want one or the other.

Another assembly problem was the five-part canopy. It can be assembled open or closed, but the mating surfaces are so thin that a fragile assembly is the only result. Same goes for the ultra-tiny positioning divots and pins on the stub-mounted weap-ons pylons.

I chose one of the colorful weapons trainers in olive drab with international orange markings. (Any time I paint a bright color, I apply a flat white undercoat, then

the color.) I used Testor Model Master enamels all around. The decals went on perfectly.

Only 16 hours were needed to finish this little beauty. Clearer instructions would have helped, but it’s hard to fault the results. Special Hobby has already announced later, flat-window Cobra ver-sions for future release.

– Paul Boyer

Special Hobby Bell AH-1G Cobra

Kit: No. SH72278 Scale: 1/72Manufacturer: Special Hobby, www.cmkkits.com Price: $25Comments: Injection-molded, 164 parts (1 resin), decals Pros: Fine moldings; handy options; good fit; excellent decals Cons: Tiny assembly drawings and tiny parts make for a difficult build; unexplained rotor options


It’s been 100 years since the start of World War I, so it’s hardly surprising to see new kits from the conflict gracing store

shelves. Still, Tamiya’s announcement of a 1/35 scale British Mark IV tank came as a surprise, albeit a pleasant one.

Perhaps the bombshell in the announce-ment was that the kit would be motorized, a flashback to Tamiya’s earliest armor kits. It had modelers wondering if that would make the kit more toy than model.

Fear not. Even with the novelty of motion, Tamiya’s Mark IV captures the rhomboid clunkiness of the landship.

The tan parts show terrific surface detail. The Mark IV is a mass of rivets and flat

Tamiya Mark IV “Male”

Kit: No. 30057 Scale: 1/35 Manufacturer: Tamiya, www.tamiya.com Price: $127 Comments: Injection-molded, 577 parts (1 electric motor, 26 metal, 15 vinyl), tools, Velcro, screws, chain, rubber tubing, decals Pros: Great detail and accurate shapes; good fits, easy build; terrific tracks; motor Cons: Motorization compli-cates construction

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panels that is reproduced faithfully. It’s sharp molding that will catch washes and dry-brushing and really pop!

This release contains everything you need to build a running replica: a motor with attached switch; battery container and metal contacts; a metal shaft; a bunch of cogs; and metal sprockets. Tamiya even includes self-adhesive Velcro to secure the battery holder; a screwdriver and hex key to build the running parts; grease to lubricate the running gear; and warning stickers!

Far from the vinyl runs that were the standard with early motorized tanks, the Mark IV comes with individual-link tracks that click together in a jiffy. They come bagged as individual items — no sprues and zero cleanup required. All you have to do is place one pin inside the corresponding hole in the adjoining link, then apply a little pressure to click the other pin in place. It took me 20 minutes to assemble both runs of 87 tracks. I wish all tracks were this easy.

The rest of the build is as smooth. The first seven steps center on installing the motor. I found the kit’s screwdriver a bit too small, preferring to use a slightly larger one to avoid stripping the heads.

Polycaps secure the hull roof, sponsons, and rear sections of the track tails, allowing access to the motor. That and some inaccu-racies in the running gear — the Mark IV drive sprockets were powered by chains from the main shaft — are the only conces-sions to motorization, and they are hidden on the finished model. Unmentioned in the instructions and unused on the sprues are realistic drive sprockets and idlers. It may be possible to build the model without the motor, or it may be an indication of an non-motorized kit on the horizon.

Building the 156 road wheels — there are two different kinds, one of which builds up from four parts — took the most time. It’s not difficult, just time-consuming. Follow Tamiya’s lead when installing the road wheels and use tape. It helps align everything, especially where they overlap.

The naval 6-pounders in the sponsons include the breech and block, gunsight, and elevation controls. Polycaps allow the guns to traverse and elevate smoothly. The Lewis guns have separate open muzzles, but no breeches or butts.

I had the model ready to paint after about eight hours. Tamiya calls for a mix of equal parts flat earth (XF-52) and deck tan (XF-55) for the hull. It does give a good rendition of the “tank brown” most Mark IVs received in 1917-18.

Decals provide markings for three vehi-cles, including names and hull numbers. They settled over the bumpy detail with help from an undercoat of clear gloss and Microscale decal solutions.

Some versions of the kit include Tamiya’s British WWI Infantry set featur-ing five figures with weapons and gear.

The finished model looks clunky and awkward, just like the real thing. The accu-rate shapes and easy assembly make this a winner. I recommend it to any modeler.

And the motor works perfectly, driving the tank over obstacles with ease. Just don’t expect to get anywhere in a hurry — it runs at a stately pace, in keeping with the full-size Mark IV’s top speed of 4 mph.

– Aaron Skinner


Workbench Reviews

Revell Germany’s new Corsair kit has some unique features: A separate upper forward section to its three-

piece fuselage eliminates the usual pesky middle seam through the fuel-tank filler. Separate oil-cooler intakes and gun ports eliminate seams through their centers as well. The wingtips are separate parts, sug-gesting a future reissue as a clipped-wing Royal Navy Corsair. Optional parts include open or closed cowl flaps (with basic exhaust detail inside), a pair of drop tanks, and excellent clear parts with a separate, posable canopy. The separate exhaust stacks are well done, and the separate rudder may be posed offset.

The engine has nicely executed crank-case detail, and the cockpit’s a little jewel, with raised detail — or optional decals — for the instrument panel and consoles. Decal seat belts are also provided. Parts have fine recessed panel lines, but there were some problems on my sample — sink marks on the fuel tanks and pylons, a cou-ple of ejector-pin marks, and small amounts of flash around the wheel wells. A word to the wise: The kit’s molded in white plastic — so paint the inside of your wing halves black, lest you look into the gun ports or shell-ejector chutes and see white. Ask me how I know.

Fabric detail on the rudder, elevators, and outer wing panels is nicely represented. But Revell Germany has also incorrectly

added it to the outboard flaps, which were metal-skinned. The kit shares this fault with other mainstream kit manufacturers whose Corsairs have the same inaccuracy.

Part fits varied from outstanding to average. The joints between the fuselage and upper wings were the finest I’ve seen on any Corsair kit. But filler was needed for the lower wing-to-fuselage joint, the three-part cowling, and around the upper forward fuselage section. The wingtip-to-outer-wing seams fell right in the middle of the fabric detail, interrupting the pattern.

The landing-gear drag braces are miss-ing one small link (easily added using sty-rene strip), but the gear fits into the wing better than all the other F4U kits I’ve built. In my opinion, that makes up for the fault. The two-part wheels have open spokes and look terrific.

Markings are given for two Southwest Pacific Corsair aces: VMF-214’s “Pappy” Boyington, and VF-17’s Jim Streig as based at Bougainville. I opted for Streig’s aircraft, mainly for the white-tape fume seal around the fuselage fuel-tank panel. The decals are excellent and are so sharp that the Hamilton Standard on the prop logos is readable. I found no photos of operational Bougainville VF-17 Corsairs carrying two external fuel tanks, but I hung them anyway since they came with the kit.

The kit’s innovations cure problems common to other F4U kits. But they can

cause a couple of their own issues in the fit department.

The model scales out just a couple of scale inches big — virtually imperceptible in 1/72 scale. It’s not perfect, but neither are the others on the market. And its good features are pretty cool, making it a viable subject for bent-wing bird-watchers. It’s a simple build that took me 14 hours.

– Walt Fink

Revell Germany F4U-1A Corsair

Kit: No. 03983 Scale: 1/72Manufacturer: Revell Germany, www.revell.de Price: $14.95Comments: Injection-molded plastic, 64 parts, decals Pros: Nice engine, cockpit, clear parts, gear and wheels; optional open cowl flaps; great decalsCons: Some poor fits; the kit’s innovations cure some typical F4U problems but cause others


Revell Germany’s brand-new 1/32 scale Spitfire Mk.IIa is a welcome sight — it’s been 47 years since Revell

Germany’s American counterpart intro-duced its groundbreaking 1/32 scale aircraft series, including an early-model Spitfire.

The kit is cleanly molded in light blue plastic with a minimum of flash and no obvious molding marks. Options include open or closed canopy, detailed cockpit, and separate control surfaces.

Following the instructions, I started construction with the cockpit interior. There is a good amount of detail here — the first 20 steps are devoted to the cockpit parts!

I put the completed cockpit module in place and closed up the fuselage without a problem.

The wing assembly is quick and easy. Ailerons and wing flaps are separate parts. I planned to install the flaps (parts 98 and 99) in the closed (normally seen) position, but I found they would not fit flush — internal detail on the inside of the upper wing prevented it. Apparently, the kit was designed to have the flaps deployed. The fix was easy. I just needed to trim down the detail and the flaps came flush.

If you intend to have the flaps dropped, be aware that Revell Germany has molded closed the small upper wing door that opens up when the flaps are down.

The fit of the fuselage and wing was

very good, particularly at the wing root. The elevators (parts 96A/B) are molded with future versions in mind. They need to be modified by removing the inner tip; a cut line is provided.

The lower cowling (Part 71) needed some work for a good fit. It overhangs the upper fuselage, preventing a flush fit for the spinner’s back plate. A little work with a sanding stick resolved the issue.

I wasn’t too pleased with the oil cooler. It is a jigsaw-puzzle construction of four pieces and requires putty and sanding to make it look good. It also appears to be a later model than what is normally seen on a Mk.IIa. On my next build of this kit, I will replace this part with an aftermarket item.

The landing gear is a two-part assembly. Use a strong bonding glue to attach the short locators (80/91) to the legs. Two-part landing gear assemblies always make me nervous, as they introduce a weak point. If I were to do this again, I would drill a hole in the top of the assembled gear leg and insert a metal rod or use aftermarket metal legs.

I painted my Spitfire with Hobby Color’s acrylic Royal Air Force colors and coated the finish with Tamiya spray clear semigloss.

Decals are provided for two aircraft. They performed extremely well, and I was most impressed after they settled down to make the markings look as if they were painted on.

My primary reference was The Supermarine Spitfire: A Comprehensive Guide for the Modeller, Part 1 — Merlin-Powered, by Robert Humphreys (SAM Publications, ISBN 978-0-9533465-4-7).

I completed my Mk.IIa in 27 hours and was very happy with the outcome. It’s an easy build with no overt problems or faults. Built from the box, this one can be man-aged by most modelers. If you are a large-scale Spitfire enthusiast, you definitely want to add this version to your collection.

– Jim Zeske

Revell Germany Spitfire Mk.IIa

Kit: No. 03986 Scale: 1/32Manufacturer: Revell Germany, www.revell.de Price: $29.95Comments: Injection-molded, 137 parts, decals Pros: Clean molding; great fits; first early Spitfire in 1/32 scale since Revell’s 1967 kit Cons: Flaps a little balky unless you pose them dropped; oil-cooler assembly difficult, inaccurate


Workbench Reviews

Moebius Battlestar Galactica

In 1978, I longed for anything that would sate the science-fiction hunger brought on by “Star Wars.” Enter TV’s “Battlestar

Galactica.” Yeah, it was campy and silly (and having watched it again recently, it defi-nitely doesn’t stand the test of time), but the ships were cool — especially the titular vessel. The long reptilian lines, the massive size, and the surface festooned with detail — I had to build one.

Unfortunately, Monogram’s kit proved a letdown, marked by poor shapes and an overall lack of detail.

Turn the clock forward 36 years and I finally have a Galactica worthy of the name. Molded in white plastic, Moebius’ 1/4105 scale offering — the odd number matches

Monogram’s box-scale kit — looks like the filming miniature.

The surface is covered in lumps, bumps, and lines, and is sharp enough that you can recognize components of the kits the model makers used to build the original. There are a couple of inaccuracies, most notably the bridge and the raised area in front of it. Both look wider on screen, and the raised protrusion should slope down at about the same angle as the surrounding hull rather than running parallel to the centerline.

The thick parts fit together with large posts inside that make for solid assemblies. But I found it helpful to clean up the inside of the locator holes for easier fits. Worried about the heavy parts staying together, I used Testors Liquid Cement, the kind with the precision applicator, for most of the construction. I squeezed it along the mat-ing surfaces as well as the interior posts and holes. Rubber bands held everything tight as the glue set.

Assembly moves quickly through the subassemblies — bow, center hull, keel, engines section, and flight bays — but keep an eye on alignment and dry-fit everything before committing glue.

I had trouble getting the bow rear bulk-head (Part 29) to fit, and it sits a fraction too low. Awkward filling and sanding is required to clean up the sides.

The hull sides (parts 6 and 7) wanted to bow out. I trimmed the notches on the hull top (Part 4) until they fit flush.

Where the four parts of the landing bays come together to form the entrance, they refused to meet at the corners. I

aligned the edges on the taper, then filled the gaps with scraps of styrene and putty. The matte paintings to detail the landing bays are a nice touch, especially since the openings — barely 1/4" — make the interior well nigh impossible to see.

I filled gaps under the bow, on the land-ing bay arms, around the engine-detail pan-els, and along the hull edges, with super glue or putty. None are major, but even the thinnest gaps will be obvious under white paint.

I assembled the ship but left the clear engine insert (Part 87) and the engine panel (Part 10) loose for painting.

I was skeptical of the kit’s painting instruction — spray the entire ship with gray primer, then mist on white — which is designed to replicate the show’s lighting effects. But it worked well, making the detail pop.

The thin decals stuck well over a coat of clear gloss, but you’ll definitely need setting solution to get them to lay down over the lumpy detail. Also, the hull striping is referred to by a single number, but the stripes are broken into individual stripes on the decal sheet. Besides Galactica, the sheet covers seven battlestars mentioned in the original series.

I spent about 15 fun hours building this blast of a kit. The result is the scaled-down Galactica I’ve been looking forward to since 1978. Challenges easy to overcome make this a kit novices can tackle. For advanced builders, it’s a great platform for superde-tailing and lighting.

– Aaron Skinner

Kit: No. 942 Scale: 1/4105Manufacturer: Moebius, www.moebiusmodels.com Price: $69.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 90 parts, decals Pros: Great surface detail; solid construction; blows old Monogram kit out of the stars; bonus Ralph McQuarrie print Cons: Nose and bridge not quite right; minor fit issues

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Seemingly determined to update its entire old catalog with new toolings, Airfix now presents a Bristol

Blenheim Mk.I light bomber. This new kit has all the standard features you would expect — loads of detail in the cockpit, nice landing gear, engraved panel lines, even the option of dropped flaps. The kit’s engineer-ing ideas are first class, allowing for multi-ple variants by swapping a few detail parts and the forward fuselage. Though they’re not used in this boxing, six parts for a Mk.IV are already on the sprues, including the nose.

This particular version has two decal options: a common-looking earth brown and dark green over black with a very inter-esting historical story, and an unusual Romanian air force bird in overall dark green over light blue. All color callouts are by Humbrol paint numbers only, so you’ll need Humbrol paints or a conversion chart.

Construction starts with the wing’s cen-ter section; front and rear spars provide both support and gear-bay detail. Airfix

offers the option of a gear-up build and sells a stand as a separate item. Careful attention to the pictogram-style instruc-tions for build options will be required for inexperienced builders. Many part edges and joins had to be scraped or have mold lines removed. But the plastic is soft and takes these corrections well, allowing fits like the wing center section and fuselage to be easily adjusted. A full interior is included, along with a simple instrument panel decal that fits well.

I followed the instructions and attached the clear parts to the nose prior to attach-ing the entire assembly to the rear fuselage; I had determined this gave me the best chance of aligning the clear parts without gaps. Even though I made sure I trimmed all corners square, I did have a small gap to fill at the nose-to-fuselage join.

I was impressed by having the option of deflecting all control surfaces. I mounted these surfaces prior to painting, including the dropped flaps. I left off the nice repre-sentation of the Blenheim’s complicated main landing gear until after painting, since the attachment points are readily accessible.

I decided to build my Blenheim all bombed up. But I used the closed bay doors for masking, so I know they fit reasonably well. The open outer bomb-bay doors are rather thick — surprising because the inner doors are wonderfully thin.

Airfix went to great lengths to detail the engines, including the option of open (Part D11) or closed (Part C2) cowl flaps and tropical (Part E5) or normal (Part E11) air cleaners (although these descriptions aren’t included in the instructions).

The multipart cowlings turned out to be the hardest part of the build, with align-ment of the three arc segments a bit impre-

cise. I assembled the cowl without the engines or the front-mounted exhaust col-lectors to make masking easier for painting.

For the same reason, I left the gun turret off. I cracked the glass on the taller turret (Part G3), so I had no choice but to use the shorter version (Part G6), even though the instructions don’t say what goes with which decal option.

Prior to applying Testors dark earth, I needed only a little bit of filler at the wing roots and the previously mentioned spot by the nose. A bit of thick-gel Elmer’s glue took care of a small gap at the rear of the upper clear part. I enlarged the side and top decal plans from the instructions — both by 150 percent, conveniently — and used the copies to cut paper masks for the cam-ouflage. A bit of Testors RAF dark green and some black on the undersurfaces and it was decal time.

The decals were disappointing — they appear accurate, and the color is dense, but they refused to settle into panel lines with-out being sliced by a blade.

Overall, I’m pleased with Airfix’s effort – it scales out accurately, has a pleasing amount of detail, and offers plenty of options, some of which you wouldn’t expect from such a reasonably priced kit. I spent a little more than 22 hours on mine and, apart from the decals, I had a great time. This kit should be a winner, and is not beyond a modeler with a couple of kits’ experience.

– Chuck Davis

Airfix Bristol Blenheim Mk.I

Kit: No. A04016 Scale: 1/72Manufacturer: Airfix, www.airfix.comPrice: $18.99 Comments: Injection-molded, 117 parts, decals Pros: Good fits, particularly for an inexpensive kitCons: Multipart cowlings; decals resist setting solutions

In-progress photosSubscribers can read more of Chuck’s experi-ence with the Blenheim, including in-progress photos, at www.FineScale.com/Reviews.


Workbench Reviews

Kinetic P-47D: Dizzying detail, complicated buildThe most numerous of P-47 variants,

the P-47D, is the subject of Kinetic’s sizable 1/24 scale Thunderbolt (20"

wingspan).In the box are eight sprues of light gray

plastic and a decal sheet with two sets of markings: one for the 405th Fighter Group

based at Saint-Dizier, France, 1944; the other for 350th Fighter Group, Pisa, Italy, 1945. (I chose the former.) The decals include stencils, but there are no instruc-tions on where to put them. I had an extra 1/48 scale Aeromaster data sheet to go by, so I managed to use most of them.

You get two types of drop tanks, the long-range and the impregnated-paper type, along with two 500-pound bombs and two multitube rocket launchers.

In Step 1, the cockpit goes together alright. But there are no seat belts. The kit supplies three types of gunsights but no indication of exactly where they’re mounted — just arrows pointing to a notch in the instrument panel. Check your references.

Step 2 is the assembly of the engine: For whatever reason, some of the parts didn’t line up; I don’t really know why everything is keyed. The cowl rings don’t fit square in the cowling; the fit seems a half cylinder off. Same with the gear reduction housing; when everything is mounted, it’s a little crooked. I cut off the key on the back of the gear housing and rotated it until it looked straight.

You don’t need any of the duct work described in Step 2, Part B, or any of the engine accessory compartment pieces in Step 3, Part D — you won’t see any of it. The intercooler and oil-cooler intakes, parts 118 and 146, don’t come far enough for-ward in the cowling. They should sit closer to the cowling lip.Kinetic goes the whole nine yards on detail in the Thunderbolt’s wing-gun and ammo bays.


In Step 4, the fuselage halves and engine assembly with bulkhead (Part 111) all come together. The cowl panels, once installed, don’t fit very well. All the seams need fill-ing, sanding, and rescribing. Leave the gear-reduction housing off until the panels are fixed. This way, you can better align the housing with the rest of the cowling so it at least looks square.

The turtle deck (parts 3 and 4) is installed in Step 5, along with the stabiliz-ers and rudder. Nothing fit very well. I had to splice in .020" styrene sheet to fill a gap on the front surface where it meets the fuselage. The whole assembly needs exten-sive filing and sanding to get it close, then filling, sanding, and rescribing after. When that’s done, you can install the stabilizers and rudder.

Now comes the fun part: Steps 6 and 7 deal with the wings and related compo-nents. First off, be advised that the right and left wing assemblies are transposed in the instructions.

The gun bay and ammo tray in the left wing don’t have positive locators; the toler-ances are really loose. Also, they don’t seem to line up with openings in the top wing. The gun bodies have a flimsy mounting point, just a little pin — not stable at all. If things aren’t lined up properly, it throws everything off, from the ammo feed belts to the ammo tray to the gun bodies and the barrels, which don’t align.

I suggest you dry-fit everything, and I mean everything, before gluing — but I’m not sure even that will help. The dimen-sions from one part to the next just don’t seem right.

Then there are the landing flaps: First thing, if you position them down, is to file down the portion of the flap linkages that slides into the wing slots. Once these are sized and fitted, make sure they’ll slide into position easily (they are oversized). Assemble the flaps and appropriate linkage; work quickly so you can temporarily slide the assemblies into the wings and make any adjustments before the glue sets. That’s the best way to get proper alignment. I wish that’s how I had done it.

The main landing gear and gear doors went together alright. The tires and hubs take a little work: The tires are stiff, and the hubs have monstrous tabs that the tires are suppose to slide over. I had to use a small screwdriver to pry the tires over the hubs, like mounting a tire at an auto center. But the big problem comes when you get to installing the strut assembly in the gear bay. There are no real contact points. The “female” area in the bay is nowhere near big or deep enough to make solid contact. Plus, the gear is very noticeably toed-in, necessi-tating a lot of filing and grinding just to get things close.

I super glued these assemblies in place and, once that dried, coated the whole thing with more super glue and hit it with accelerator.

The instructions mount the wings in the last step. But you should install them way before that. There’s a pin on the fuselage wing root that’s supposed to line up with a locator hole in the wing. Guess what? It doesn’t. Nip off the pins to get a better wing-to-fuselage join.

Three types of props are given: a

Hamilton Standard, a symmetrical Curtis Electric, and an asymmetrical paddle-blade prop.

Painting a natural finish was a little challenging because of the plastic’s grainy surface. However, a good gloss base works well enough, and the Alclad II paint did pretty well. The decals went on without a hitch.

It took me somewhere between 55 and 60 hours to tackle this T-bolt. It scales out pretty close to the real thing, and it looks right. But this one isn’t for sissies. It’s lots of work — too much, in my opinion. If you want to take it on, dry-fit everything as many times as it takes to get it dead on. I’m sorry to say, that may not be enough. It’s definitely not for beginners.

– Larry Schramm

Kit: No. K3207 Scale: 1/24Manufacturer: Kinetic, www.kineticmodel.com Price: $140Comments: Injection-molded, 255 parts (2 vinyl), decals Pros: Dimensionally cor-rect; builds into an impressive model (with work) Cons: Fit issues throughout


Workbench Reviews

Stealthy and otherworldly in appear-ance, the X-47B may just be the future of naval aviation. Designed by

Northrop Grumman, the unmanned aerial vehicle is a demonstrator for the U.S. Navy’s UCAS (unmanned combat air system) pro-gram. It’s been flying since 2011 and underwent sea trials aboard USS Theodore Roosevelt in summer 2014.

Despite there being only two of them, the X-47B, like other drones, has been get-tina attention from kit manufacturers. Platz released a 1/72 scale kit in 2012.

Now newcomer Freedom Model Kits hits the market with an ambitious 1/48 scale offering.

The gray plastic parts display recessed and raised detail. Panel lines on the body parts are crisp, but parts like door actuators and gear legs seem a tad soft. They also have slight mold seams that need cleanup.

The kit features great options, including folded wings, posable control surfaces, arrestor hook, and air brakes, as well as dif-ferent nose gear for takeoff or taxiing.

Other features include full intake and exhaust trunking with fans, detailed gear bays and legs, and open bomb bays with GBU-32s.

A small photoetched-brass fret provides tie-downs for the landing gear, hinges for the wing-fold doors, pitots, and other small details.

Freedom X-47B UCAS

Kit: No. FD 18001 Scale: 1/48 Manufacturer: Freedom Model Kits, www.freedommks.com Price: $79.95 Comments: Injection-molded, 204 parts (20 photoetched), decals Pros: Good detail; wing-fold option; separate control surfaces Cons: Wing-fit problems

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Looking for reference?If you want to see photos of the real X-47B test bird aboard the aircraft carrier USS Theodore Roosevelt, head over to www.FineScale.com/OnlineExtras.

There’s no cockpit, so assembly starts instead with the landing gear. It’s sturdy, and the locators are pretty positive, but all of the slots on arms and actuators need to be opened to fit over corresponding pegs.

However, the gear detail really stands out when a dark wash is applied over a coat of white paint.

The wings and the body fit better when the locator pins are removed, but the lead-ing and trailing edges are sharp and scale thin. I wanted to pose one of the air brakes closed, but, in addition to removing raised detail in the bay, I had to sand the edges for a flush fit.

The engineering of the intake and exhaust is outstanding, with clean fits and perfect alignment in the airframe.

The main body fits pretty well but needs care and just a little filler.

I ran into problems with the inserts for the joins for the wings, both for the folded and deployed options. The plug and sup-port (nos. D12 and D13) required sanding and frequent dry-fitting to ensure a flush fit along the join. The same proved true of the inserts for the folded wings (parts E11 and E12). I left the folded wing off for painting.

After spraying the wheel and weapon bays white, I masked and painted the air-frame neutral gray darkened with a few drops of schwarzgrau. Then I masked a few

panels and painted straight neutral gray to match photos of the real thing.

Even over a generous coat of Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish, the decals proved prone to silvering. I applied Solvaset to get them to settle.

Positioning the multiple actuators on the bay doors was challenging. But the alignment illustrations are a big help. (This is when I discovered I had misplaced one of the landing gear doors.) The folded wing requires support as the cement sets to ensure it sits right on the small arms.

The finished model matches photos of the real X-47B in appearance and stance. The only shape issue I see is a step at the wing fold.

Freedom’s UCAS is a neat model but requires some skill to get just right. I spent about 25 hours on the model and can rec-ommend it to anyone with a few modern kits under their belts.

– Aaron Skinner


Alpha Precision Abrasives, Inc. ___17

ARA Press ___________________17

Aves Studio __________________11

Bluejacket Shipcrafters _________17

Cedar Creek Trading Post ______64

Colpar’s Hobbytown USA ______64

Dean’s Hobby Stop ____________64

Dragon Models U.S.A. _________67

Evergreen Scale Models ________11

Fantastic Plastic Models ________64

Full Circle Hobbies ____________64

HobbyLink Japan ______________9

Hornby America ______________17

Iwata-Medea __________________7

Jac Hobbies __________________63

MegaHobby.com ______________64

Model Rectifier Corp __________68

Oldmodelkits.com ____________64

Pace Enterprises _______________7

ParagGafix____________________7

Plastruct Inc. _________________11

Plasticmodelworld.com _________64

Red Frog Hobbies _____________64

Roll Models________________7, 63

Round 2 LLC ________________11

Sprue Brothers _______________11

Strike Force Hobbies __________64

Tamiya America, Inc. ___________3

Totalnavy.com ________________63

True Scene Modeling __________64

Wingnut Wings, Ltd. ___________2

Xuron ______________________17

Zvezda USA __________________9

We believe that our readers are as important as our advertis-ers. If you do not receive your merchandise or a reply from an advertiser within a reasonable period, please contact us. Provide details about what you ordered and the amount you paid. If no action is obtained after we forward your complaint to the ad-vertiser, we will not accept further advertising from them. Fi-neScale Modeler magazine, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha, WI 53187

The Advertiser Index is provided as a service to FineScale Modeler magazine readers. The magazine is not responsible for omissions or for typographical errors in names or page numbers.

Ad Index Website D

irectoryJAC HOBBIESwww.jachobbies.comAircraft, Armor and Ships

Excellent products, prices and service equal more value for your dollar! (208) 861-6851

TOTALNAVY.COMwww.TotalNavy.com

ALL SHIPS, ALL NAVIES, ALL KINDS (718) 471-5464

TOTALNAVY.COMFSM • 01/01/2014 • 2C • 2 IN

We are an ebay seller

ROLL MODELSFSM • 1/1/12 • 2C • WD

Roll modelswww.rollmodels.com

We carry the best from A-Model to Zotz and 43,000 items in between! Find it with our easy-to-use search engine.

763-545-0399

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1-888-558-1544, Ext. 549

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COMING EVENTS MA, TAUNTON: MassCar Model Club presents the 27th Annual Model Exhibition Contest & Vendor Show. Holiday Inn, Bay Road @ Exit 9 on Route 495. March 15, 2015, 9:00am-4:00pm. Admission: $8.00, under 12 Free. Door prizes, color-ing contest and make & take event. Information: www.masscar.com or Harry at 508-285-8080

FOR SALECANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS.COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, [email protected]

SHIP AND AIRCRAFT MODELS. Built for display. For additional information contact, Ray Guinta, PO Box 74, Leonia, NJ 07605. www.rayguinta.com

THOUSANDS OF MODEL KITS for sale. All types from Old Aurora to new releases. Send a 70¢ SASE to: Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected]

WANTEDA BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hy-brid or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-462-7277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560. E-mail [email protected]

AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC. Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Indepen-dence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail: [email protected]

BUILT PLASTIC MODELS WANTED. I buy built kits. [email protected] Cell: 773-387-1400

CASH PAID FOR PLASTIC MODEL COLLECTIONS. Call Tracie in Michigan 248-814-8359. Fax: 248-814-0385E-mail: [email protected].

MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax: 716-836-6057. E-mail: [email protected]

YOU WILL NEVER FIND TIME TO BUILD ALL THOSE MODELS. Unbuilt kits, diecast aircraft, military books. Milam Models, 519 DiLorenzo Dr., Naperville, IL 60565, Phone: 630-983-1407, [email protected]

MISCELLANEOUSFINESCALE MODELER AUTHOR and IPMS medalist will build your favorite aircraft, specializing in metal finishes. Contact John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or [email protected]

I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS. Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St. Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail: [email protected]

Classified MarketplaceThis section is open to anyone who wants to sell or buy scale modeling merchandise. FSM reserves the right to edit undesirable copy or refuse listing. For FSM’s private records, please furnish: a telephone number and a street address.

All Copy: Set in standard format. First several words only set in bold face. If possible, ads should be sent typewritten and categorized to ensure accuracy.

Coming Events Rate: $35 per issue (55 word maximum). Ads will contain the following information about the event: state, city, sponsoring organization and name of event, meet, auction or show, dates, location, times, admission fee, name and/or telephone number and/or email of person to contact for information. Name, daytime telephone number and street address of the person providing the information is also required but need not be included in the ad. Unless otherwise requested, ads will be published in the issue month that the event occurs in. Additional months are available at the $35 per issue fee. Please specify issue date(s).

Word Ad Rates: 1 insertion - $1.13 per word, 5 insertions - $1.08 per word, 10 insertions - 99¢ per word. $20 minimum per issue. Count all initials, single numbers, street number or name, city, state, zip, phone numbers each as one word. Payment must accompany the ad. To receive the discount you must order and prepay for all ads at one time. We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express and Discover.

Send Your Ads To: FineScale Modeler – Classified Marketplace, 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612. Phone toll-free: 1-888-558-1544, Ext. 815, or fax: 262-796-0126. E-mail: [email protected]

Closing Dates: Published 10 times a year. Jan. 2015 issue closes Oct. 14, Feb. closes Nov. 7, Mar. closes Dec. 10, April closes Jan. 7, May closes Feb. 17, July closes April 14, Sep. closes June 15, Oct. closes July 8, Nov. closes Aug. 10, Dec. closes Sept. 9.

Dept. #200$25.95

$7• Email: [email protected]

TRUE SCENE MODELINGMRR • 01/01/2015 • 2C • 1 IN

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COLPAR’S HobbyTown USAPLANES • ARMOR • CARS • SHIPS • SCI-FIWe carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits fromaround the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories.Airline models, Decals, Books, Promos, Die Cast Col-lectibles, Historical & RPG Games & Miniatures,Airbrushes & parts. Large Paint and Tool inventory.Full line R/C department. We ship worldwide.

www.colpar.com To order call: 1-800-876-04141915 S. Havana St. For information: 303-341-0414Aurora, Co 80014

“Since 1969”

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www.redfroghobbies.comSpecialists in all high quality hobby products.

We Ship Worldwide

HOP ON OVER FOR A GREAT DEAL!HOP ON OVER FOR A GREAT DEAL! Visit our new website!

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Worldwide Shipping North American Dealer for Ninco, Siku, & More

www.strikeforcehobbies.com

YOUR ONE STOP HOBBY SHOPLarge selection of kits, supplies and more !

Specializing inhard-to-find & OOP kits.

We have over 8000 kits in stock from old Aurora to new releases. Please contact us for a FREE catalog. Please specify cars or military. Check with me before you sell.

We Buy Collections!

[email protected]

116 N. Washington Street • Owosso, MI 48867(989) 720-2137 • Fax: (989) 720-0937

DEAN'S HOBBY STOPFSM • 02/01/2014 • BW • 2 IN

Megahobby.com carries over 250 Manufacturers and over 30,000 Hobby related products. We have a complete Paint Store with all the tools and books you will need to build great models. Visit the website and you will be impressed! Place an order you will be a customer for life. Call Megahobby Toll Free to speak to a knowledgeable sales person. (888)-642-0093.

Selling online since 2000! We buy collections.

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1/72 MILITARY DIORAMAS, VEHICLES, AFVs & FIGURES. 1/64 RESIN SLOT CAR BODIES, DECALS & STRUCTURES.

SCENERY • MODEL PLANES, CARS & MORE !


Specializing in plastic models & accessories. Large selection of plastics, after-market detail

accessories, decals, paint, books & tools.Full-line hobby shop.

www.thehobbydepot.com

480-968-1880

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HOBBY DEPOT216 W. Southern Ave.

TempeARIZONA

Headquarters for scale hobbies. Models;N-HO-O-G trains; gaming; tools; paints, etc.

Discounts & special orders.Open 10-6, closed Sundays and Wednesdays

www.railandspruehobbies.com

501-982-6836

•

RAIL & SPRUE HOBBIES1200 John Harden Dr.

JacksonvilleARKANSAS

Large selection of plastic kits, paints, and supplies. Special orders no problem

Visit us in person or onlinewww.houseofhobbies.com

Secure online ordering

818-848-3674

•

BURBANK’S HOUSE OF HOBBIES911 S. Victory Blvd.

BurbankCALIFORNIA

Kits, plastic & wood, Slot cars & toys. Rockets,paint, glue and tools. Trains from Z to O.Mon-Tues 10-5, Wed-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-5,

closed Sun & Big Holidays.www.scalemodelstuff.com

818-716-7847

•

SCALE MODEL STUFF7259 Canoga Avenue

Canoga ParkCALIFORNIA

Rewards program for 10% back on purchases.Plastic aircraft, armor, ships, cars, decals,

books, paints, tools, miniatures war-games. Mon-Thur 11-8, Fri 11-midnight, Sat 10-mid-night, Sun 11-7 www.brookhursthobbies.com

714-636-3580

•

BROOKHURST HOBBIES12188 Brookhurst St.

Garden GroveCALIFORNIA

Wide variety of plastic kits.Old Nascar Kits - please call.

Mon - Sat 10-6. Closed Sunday.

562-777-9492

•

R HOBBIES14269 Imperial Hwy.

La MiradaCALIFORNIA

New Products, Old Kits & Great Service!Everything you need to build plastic modelsArmor, Aircraft, Ships, Cars, SciFi and more.M-F 10:30-6pm, Sat 10:30-5pm, Sun 12-5pm

www.militaryhobbiesonline.com

714-637-1211

•

MILITARY HOBBIES830 E. Lincoln Ave.

OrangeCALIFORNIA

Your source for plastic models, die cast and allsupplies needed to finish your latest model.

Mon-Sat 9:30-6, Sun 11-5.www.talbotstoyland.com

650-342-0126

•

TALBOT’S HOBBIES445 South “B” Street

San MateoCALIFORNIA

Large inventory of models from theworld over! Detailing accessories, research publications, games, trains, R/C, tools, and

supplies. Easy access from D.I.A.http://www.colpar.com

800-876-0414

•

COLPAR HOBBIES1915 S. Havana St.

AuroraCOLORADO

Planes, tanks, cars, ships, rockets, plastic andwood kits. Trains. Authorized Lionel dealer & repair. Die-cast, RC, slot cars, structural and diorama supplier. Special orders welcome.

203-869-0969

•

ANN’S HOBBY CENTER405 E. Putnam Avenue

Cos CobCONNECTICUT

Largest hobby shop in NE. Military, cars, trucks, plastic models, diecast cars, trucks. Planes, RC planes, cars, trucks, slot cars, rockets, Breyer, Detailing supplies, games! Mon-Wed 10-6 Th-Fri 10-9 Sat-Sun 10-6

860-646-0610

•

TIME MACHINE HOBBY71 Hilliard St.

ManchesterCONNECTICUT

Extensive selection of armor kits & Verlinden accessories. Military, auto & aircraft plastic models. Photo-etched parts. O gauge train

sets. Open Tue-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5.www.hqhobbiesonline.com

203-882-1979

•

HQ HOBBIES394 New Haven Ave., Unit 1

MilfordCONNECTICUT

Come visit our new store!Plastic modeling kits.

Paint, tools, scenery, & accessories.Scale model railroads & rockets.

Mon-Sat 10:00am-6:00pm. Closed Sunday.

239-332-0422

•

METRO TRAINS & HOBBIES12951 Metro Parkway

Ft. MyersFLORIDA

Full line Hobby Shop. Featuring large selectionof plastic models, accessories & books.

Mon - Sat 9am-6pm.www.bobeshobbyhouse.com

850-433-2187

•

BOBE'S HOBBY HOUSE2 E. Nine Mile Rd., Ste. 11

PensacolaFLORIDA

Huge selection of model kits & accessories.Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Figures, Cars and more.

Visit: www.freetimehobbies.comfor complete listing.

Monday to Friday 10-6, Saturday 10-2

706-946-1120

•

FREE TIME HOBBIES4167 East First St. (by KFC)

Blue RidgeGEORGIA

Wide selection of plastic model kits, paint, books, magazines and tools.

Located on the beautiful windward side, a scenic 20 minute drive from Honolulu.

Mon - Fri 10-6, Sat 10-5, Sun 11-2

808-262-0211

•

WELLER'S HOBBYCRAFT767 Kailua Road

Kailua, OahuHAWAII

Largest store in area, easy access via I-93,Rt. 1, and the T. Complete line of

model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers,figure kits, games, etc. Shipping available.

Info: hobbybunker.com

781-321-8855

•

HOBBY BUNKER, INC.33 Exchange St.

Malden (Boston)MASSACHUSETTS

Stop in ONCE! A customer for LIFE!We have 10,000+ models, tools, supplies, 23 paint lines, 50 model mags, 5,000+ books.

Est. in 1973, open 7 days, Th & Fr 'til 8.Visit us @ www.sparetimeshop.com

508-481-5786

•

THE SPARE TIME SHOPRt 20E Main, Post Rd. Plaza

MarlboroMASSACHUSETTS

6,000 model kits, old and new: Autos, armor, planes & sci-fi. Reference books & supplies. Open T-Th 11-7, F 11-8, Sa 10-5. Rt. 495 to

Rt. 123E, behind Dunkin’ Donuts. www.mymummy.com E: [email protected]

508-285-8080

•

HARRY’S HOBBIES & COLLECTABLES250 E. Main St., Rt 123

NortonMASSACHUSETTS

We moved! Thousands of model kits from oldAurora to new releases. Mon 4pm-7pm,

Tues - Fri 11:30am-5pm. Sat 11:30am-4:00pmE-mail: [email protected]

989-720-2137

•

DEAN’S HOBBY STOP116 N. Washington Street

OwossoMICHIGAN

New & Old Toy Soldiers, Historical Miniatures,Models and Figure Kits from Around the

World. Our famous selection of hobby suppliesincludes scenics, paints, reference and more.

www.michtoy.com

248-586-1022

•

MICHIGAN TOY SOLDIER & FIGURE CO.1400 E. 11 Mile Rd.

Royal Oak (Metro Detroit)MICHIGAN

Let your imagination run wild!Aircraft, ships, cars, armor, special orders,

diecast cars, dollhouse miniatures,model railroading Z to G and more...

231-947-1353

•

TRAINS & THINGS HOBBIES210 East Front St.

Traverse CityMICHIGAN

Your single stop model building shop. Michigan’s largest selection of new and vin-

tage kits in all genres plus everything needed to build them. Wed - Sat 11-8, Sun 12-5

Visit us on Facebook. www.modelcave.com

734-316-2281

•

MODELCAVE103 W. Michigan Avenue

Ypsilanti-Metro DetroitMICHIGAN

While in Las Vegas, come see our wideselection of models and detail accessories.

Less than 5 miles off the Las Vegas stripHours Mon-Fri 10-7, Sat 10-6, Sun noon-5.

702-889-9554

•

HOBBYTOWN USA4590 W Sahara Ave Ste 103

Las VegasNEVADA

Best plastic, resin & balsa kits from around theworld. Scratch building & diorama supplies,

reference books, large paint selection including Humbrol, Citadel & Testors

603-749-0800

•

ELITE HOBBIES#334 90 Washington St.

DoverNEW HAMPSHIRE

Full service hobbies, a full line ofHO, N, 3-Rail, military, cars, boats,planes, dollhouses, scratchbuilding

supplies, plus details-details-details!

973-584-1188

•

KENVIL HOBBIES590 Rt. 46

KenvilNEW JERSEY

Huge foreign & domestic model selectionall scales. Automobiles, aircraft ship, books,

wargames, scenery, dioramasupplies, parts, tools. Open 7 days

856-435-7645

•

AAA HOBBIES & CRAFTS706 N. White Horse Pike

Magnolia (Camden)NEW JERSEY

WNY’s largest selection of models!!!We specialize in models. New, old, rare and

vintage. Tons of detail and weathering products, paint, tools and so much more!

716-824-1049

•

SECTION 8 HOBBIES2243 Seneca St.

BuffaloNEW YORK

Military oriented hobby shop. Armour, naval &aircraft models. Aftermarket products,

dioramas and diorama products, books, mags,tools, paints, war videos & more. Call for hrs.

www.alsandtoysoldiers.com

631-254-2650

•

ALSAND TOY SOLDIERS848 Long Island Ave.

Deer ParkNEW YORK

Excellent selection of lead miniatures-historical and fantasy. Plastic models,

wargames & modeling supplies.Books and magazines.

631-924-0583

•

MEN AT ARMS HOBBIES, INC.134 Middle Country Rd.

Middle IslandNEW YORK

Visit our in-house Aircraft Model Museum. Foreign and domestic plastic and wood kits.

Open 7 days.

212-987-4765

•

JAN'S HOBBY SHOP, INC.1435 Lexington Ave.

Upr Eastside GR ManhattanNEW YORK

Great selection of model kits, accessories, detail parts, magazines, tools & paints.

www.hobbylandstores.com

614-888-7500

•

HOBBYLAND206 Graceland Blvd.

ColumbusOHIO

Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint and after-market inventory. Planes, cars, trucks, armor,

ships, trains and sci-fi. Special orders welcome! Mon - Fri 10-7, Sat 11-6, Sun 1-5.

Web site: www.topshelfmodelsllc.com

918-274-0433

•

TOP SHELF MODELS119 S. Main St.

OwassoOKLAHOMA

Complete full line hobby shop.Z, N, HO, O, Lionel, and LGB.

Open Mon-Fri 10-8, Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5.

503-644-4535

•

TAMMIES HOBBIES12024 SW Canyon Rd.

BeavertonOREGON

Large Selection New & Used KitsMilitary books, tools, paint, airbrushes

Full line hobby shop open Tue - Thur 10-6,Fri 10-7, Sat 10-4 www.CoolTrains.com

717-898-7119

•

COOLTRAINS TOYS & HOBBIES106 W. Main Street

Landisville (Lancaster)PENNSYLVANIA

East Tennessee’s largest plastic model selection. 8,000 sq. ft. of hobbies & toys. Located in Knoxville’s premier shopping

destination. Turkey Creek Area.Open 7 days a week.

865-675-1975

•

HOBBYTOWN USA11145 Turkey Dr.

KnoxvilleTENNESSEE

HO & N, Lionel trains.Complete line of plastic kits, military

and architecture supplies.Open 11am-6pm M-F, Sat. 10am-5pm

www.gandgmodelshop.com

713-529-7752

•

G & G MODEL SHOP2522 Times Blvd.

HoustonTEXAS

Run your Retail Directory ad in the next issue of

FineScale Modeler!

Call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815 for more information.

Imported & Domestic Aviation Books &Plastic Kits. Paint, Decals, HO, N trains, R/C,

U/C airplanes.Mon 1-6, Tue-Wed 12-6, Thur-Fri 10:30-7.

Sat 10:30-6. www.malhobby.com

972-438-9233

•

M-A-L HOBBY SHOP108 S. Lee Street

Irving (Dallas Area)TEXAS

Scale modeling from beginner to expert.A wide selection of aircraft, armor, autos, figures, ships, & sci-fi. Lots of reference

material, detail parts, decals, tools, & eight lines of paint. Open Tues-Sat 10-6pm.

210-735-7721

•

DIBBLE'S HOBBIES1029 Donaldson Ave.

San AntonioTEXAS

Minutes from Dulles Airport & New DullesAir & Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center.

PLASTIC! PLASTIC! PLASTIC!Kits for aircraft - armor - ships - cars

Daily 12-8; Sun 12-5. www.piperhobby.com

703-803-3103

•

PIPER HOBBY13892 Metrotech Dr.

ChantillyVIRGINIA

Plastic model specialty shop.New and old kits, foreign, domestic,books, paints and other accessories.

We also buy collections.www.dhcinc.com [email protected]

757-874-5708

•

DENBIGH HOBBY CENTER, INC.14351 Warwick Blvd.

Newport NewsVIRGINIA

We are a full line hobby shop. Huge model selection. Gundam, supplies, tool, educational,

kit, parts, kite, game. Huge selection, paint, train & R/C items.

www.galaxyhobby.com

425-670-0454

•

GALAXY HOBBY19332 60th Ave. W.

LynwoodWASHINGTON

Plastic Model Specialists. Large selection of rare & out-of-production models.

Large selection of detail parts. Largestselection of plastic models in South Seattle!

www.skywaymodel.com

206-772-1211

•

SKYWAY MODEL SHOP12615 Renton Ave. South

SeattleWASHINGTON

Specializing in R/C models and accessories, helicopters, planes, cars, trucks, boats,

plastic, die-cast & model rockets.M T W F 9:30-6, Th 9:30-8 Sat. 9:30-5

www.modelland.com [email protected]

403-249-1661

•

MODEL LAND LTD3409A 26 Ave. SW

CalgaryCANADA–AB

One of Canada's leading model shops.Complete line of military & aircraft kits,

decals, paints and accessories.Free parking. On Parle Francais.

613-749-5245

•

HOBBY HOUSE, LTD80 Montreal Rd.

Ottawa (Vanier)CANADA–ON

Large selection of new & out-of-production kits. Accessories & finishing products.

Servicing the hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections. www.wheelswingshobbies.com

416-752-0071

•

WHEELS AND WINGS1880 Danforth Ave.

TorontoCANADA–ON

Old kits & latest releases. Good selection of unusual model kits & accessories. We stock

electric trains & slot cars. Open 7 days,1pm-8pm. In the Katong Shopping Centre.

www.hobbybounties.com

65-6440-1890

•

HOBBY BOUNTIES & MORGAN HOBBYCRAFT865 Mountbatten Rd #02-91/92

SingaporeSINGAPORE

Local Hobby Shop DirectoryLocal Hobby Shop Directory listings are available for the next ten issues for $275 (payable in advance) or at $37 per issue (billed to established accounts for a minimum of ten insertions). Ads will be set in standard listing typography. All insertions must be consecutive and may be invoiced if you have credit established with us. No mention of mail order business permitted. For information call 1-888-558-1544, ext. 815. Closing dates listed in Classifieds section.

KPC ADVERTISING ACCOUNTFSM • 12/01/2014 • 4C • 7.062W x 1.25H

SPECIAL AIRCRAFT ISSUE

Rogério “Rato” Marczak’s 1/72 scale P-40B Tomahawk diorama – p.24

Reviewed: Airfi x’s RAF Lightning F.2A

Dragon’s M103A1: How does it go together? – p.58

HOW TO BUILD YOUR FIRSTDIORAMA

www.FineScale.com

September 2014

OUR EXPERTS BUILD AND REVIEW 10 ALL-NEW KITS

Add realistic battle damage p. 40Model a one-of-a-kind 727 p. 38Simulate woodgrain with paint p. 36

PLUS

Your modeling skills will

SOAR with

FineScale Modeler!

No matter what you like to model, it’s in FineScale Modeler.

Go to www.FineScale.com


Compiled by Mark Hembree

Final Details

What is your favorite kit?Kit-manufacturing technology is better than ever — but is it better than your best kit?

For example, when I built Dragon’s 1/35 scale SdKfz 234/1 — 400-plus parts, including more than 100 pieces in the suspension alone — I found it was so precisely molded and fit so well that I could hardly go wrong. If something didn’t fit, it was probably my fault.

But it can be even more satisfying to exercise your skills and experience to overcome a sub-standard kit. We asked readers to name their favorite model and explain their choice. Subject? Fit? Nostalgia or sentimentality? Their answers were about all that and more.… the old 1960s-vintage Monogram 1/48 scale Fw-190A. It was the kit that really cemented me in the hobby (pun intended): multi-colored sprues, moving parts, options for variants and weapon fits, and a big decal sheet. I must have built that kit a dozen times.– Bruce DavisSt. Louis, Mo.

… Visible V8, by Renwal (1/4 scale). I built it with my father when I was 10 or 11. That ver-sion of the kit featured an elec-tric motor and spark plugs that flashed. I have built many mod-els since then, but that one still has a place of honor in my col-lection — especially since Dad recently passed away.– Dave HarveyNanaimo, British Columbia, Canada

… the old 1/32 scale tank kits from Monogram. They were

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very advanced in the ’60s and had lots of room for superde-tailing, even before that became a word. The PzKpfw III kit was part of the first diorama I ever built. Even as a child, I could easily afford the kit — which is more than you can say for top-of-the-line model kits today.– Frank MacKayScarborough, Ontario, Canada

In 1966, I bought a 1/32 scale Monogram P-51D Mustang — not the Phantom Mustang, but the silver-colored kit. I had to save my weekly allowance for a month to afford it. It was the first I can remember that had working features that actually worked very well. I was 12, and the challenge of assembling it with all of its internal mecha-nisms was, at the time, intimi-dating. Would everything actually function? In the end, it all worked well and gave me endless enjoyment as I flew countless missions in my imagi-nation. It was the kit of kits for me, and still is.– Norm SheppardSackville, New Brunswick, Canada

… the Ideal (ITC) “Cam-A-Matic” (1/64 scale) B-29! Not only was it a fine injection-molded, easy-to-build kit, but it was a working model with a battery pack and four electric motors. Turn on the toggle switch atop the fuselage and the engines turned over, one at a time. When all four engines were turning, they revved up to top speed and, if the model was on a smooth surface, it would actually move forward. After about 10 seconds, the engines would shut down and it was ready to go again. I’m 85, still building, and I still remember that B-29.– Jack KerrPittsburgh, Pa.

… the old Monogram P-51D (Detroit Miss), when I was around 13. It went together eas-ily, though I didn’t have sprue cutters, putty (never even heard of it at that time), sandpaper, or an airbrush. I was pretty much a “twist off the parts and glue them together” kind of guy. But my hand-brushing was halfway decent, and one of my friends told me I had done a great job

on it. Well, that was all I needed to hear. Wish I still had that model.– Gary D. MasonIndian Trail, N.C.

Heller (1/200 scale) Le Suroit oceanographic research vessel: She’s the first I built in that scale and, at least early on, a well-molded example of some-thing no one else had done.– G.J. GeracciNew Braunfels, Texas

Fujimi’s 1/72 scale Skyhawk series … almost like potato chips for me. Each release had the small parts and nose changes for the various versions. Fujimi included details that other manufacturers skipped in 1/72 scale.– Rex DrosteNashville, Tenn.

When I started, I enjoyed the Hasegawa 1/48 scale Phantom series. For a beginner, they were “Shake ’n’ Bake” kits that built into impressive models with bright Cold War-era decals.– Anthony CarlucciUnion, N.J. FSM

With its great fit and fine detail, Mark’s favorite kit was Dragon’s 1/35 scale SdKfz 234/1. But ease was a minor factor in readers’ choices.

DRAGON MODELS USAFSM • 01/01/2015 • 4C • 1 PG

MODEL RECTIFIER CORPFSM • 01/01/2015 • 4C • 1 PG

#64105 - VH-34D ‘Marine One’ HMX-1 Presidential Flight | 1/48 ScaleKit Dimensions: Main Rotor Diameter: 13”, Model Length: 12”

Marine Helicopter Squadron One (HMX-1) has become synonymous with helicopter transport of the president. The piston-engine VH-34D served as President Kennedy’s executive transport. Gallery Models delivers this highly recognizable “white-top” chopper with a spot-on VIP interior, flawless cabin and authentic

markings, including the presidential seal for the door.Details include:• Full radial engine and exhaust system with positionable engine bay doors• Extensive photo-etched detail fret with engine-cooling screens• Luxury VIP cabin interior with sound proof walls and special seating• Detailed cockpit with seats and control grips• Pilot’s side windows can be positioned open or closed• Positionable tail rotor pylon to display it folded for storage or in the flight

position• Cabin side sliding door with large viewing window at the president’s seat• Emergency floatation equipment• Finely engraved panel lines.

Included as well are the webbed troop seats, rescue litters, rescue hoist and markings to create the U.S Coast Guard HUS-1G instead of the presidential version.

Fit For a PresidentBuild Something

Also available: (64106) 1/48 UH-34D Seahorse Operation Deep Freeze, Antarctica. Markings as well for U.S. Navy VC-1 Squadron and Japanese Navy.

award- winning advice - finescale.com/media/files/pdf/advertising/mag-fsm-jan15.pdf · january 2015...

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