basic garments information
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7/31/2019 Basic Garments Information.
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Garment Making Process
Process
1. Yarn Purchase
2. Knitting
3. Dyeing
4. Stitching
5. Shipping
Symbol
Yarn Count 1. The higher the count, the finer the yarn, The symbol stands /s
for single.
2. Two Types of Yarn: Man-Made vs God-Made
3. Man Made is Polyester P
4. God- Made is Cotton CT
5. Cotton comes in Carded & Combed
6. Cotton Carded: okay quality CD
7. Cotton Combed: very good quality Comb
8. Mixture of Cotton & Poylester: CVC, PC 50:50,60:40
Yarn Manufacturer 1. The mill that manufactures the yarn. Gul-Ahmed, Fazal etc.
Yarn Brand 1. The name of Yarn given by Yarn manufaturer.
2. Found in slip in Yarn bags
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Greige Fabric Specifications: (Fabric made during Knitting Process)
Pattern 1. Type of Fabric made on machine
2. Single Jersey Machine can make
a. Single Jersey S/J
b. S/Jersey with lycra L/J
c. PK PK
4.Two End Fleece 2 Fleece
5. Popcorn
6. Double Tuck PK DTPK
3. Double Knit machine can make
a. 1x1 Rib
b. 2x1 Rib
c. Thermal
d. Lycra 1x1 Rib L/Rib
GSM 1. Grams per square meter g/Sq2
2. Wt of fabric
Stich Length 1. Like GSM SL, CM
Lycra 1. Elastic Yarn "gives luchaq" D
2. The higher the lyca count the fatter the lycra
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Kg
Yarn Net Weight 45.364
Items in Yarn Bag with Weight
Item Qt Wt/ pcs Tt. Wt
Kg Kg
Cones 24 0.05 1.2
Washers 24
Polythene bag 24
Large Bag 1 0.300
Total Tare Wt 1.5
Yarn Net Wt 45.364
Gross Yarn Wt of Bag 46.864
Knitting:
1. The Knitter will take 1% as wastage on the yarn we give him2. The kniter will not apply the 1% on lycra
Dyeing:
1. The Dyer will take a wastage of 6 %
2. Reconcile the greige fabric being delivered to the dyeing house and the dyed fabric being delivered to us
Flat Knit Collar Knitting
Yarn Weight Formulas
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1. There are three major yarn counts used in collar knitting:
a) 20/s
b) 26/s
c) 30/s
2. On the collar machine, the folliwng counts us the following number of yarn cones
a) 20/s: 3 conesb) 26/s: 4 Cones
c) 30/s: 5 cones
3. The guage defines the thickness of the fabric.
a) They have 14 guage
4. They bill in dozens and also have a 1% wastage
5. The jack selectors on the machine control the designs and they have needles that make the fabric
6. The higher the count the tighter the knit.
7. The GSM usally ranges from 175 gsm
8. The bed size of the machine is 60 inches so you can make two collars in a double carriage or single carriage
9. Find out how you control the width.
10. Some Sizes are the following: (length x width)
a) Collar Size: 10" x 3", 10.5 x 3", 11 x 3", 13" x 3 1/4, 14" x 3 1/4", 14" x 3 1/4
b) Cuff Size, 7" x 1", 7 1/2" x 1", 8 1/2 x 1"
c) Consumption: Every Garment has one collar and two cuffs so consumption is simple
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Twill Tape Consumption
1. Measure the neck
2. Measeure the shoulder
3. Measure the side sits
4. Add 5%
Sewing Thread.
1. It comes in 40/1 , 34/2
2. Different Colors and Count
3. You should match it with the needle you sew.