behind the scenes - lonely planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/pdfs/tanzania-6-index.pdf · of...

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Anneke Valk, Annika Goorsenberg, Annika Gunnarsson, Astrid Naundorf, Aurelie Cloix, Bob Demyan, Bruce Becker, Chris Hughes, Darren Keogh, Eduardo Fajer, Eleanor Kirby, Elizabeth Greive, Friederike Haberstroh, Gianluca Valenti, Hervé Palanchon, Hilbert Weemstra, Isabel Vorrath, Jan Gorter, Johann Schelesnak, Jonas Kronqvist, Jose Rocha, Julian Hercun, Katarina Forsström, Katerina Sourouni, Lena Leuthold, Lisa Henry, Maaike Bouma, Marc Eichen, Marco van Zwetselaar, Marijke Bakker, Mbaraka Kilopola, Neil Bennett, Neil Cook, Nicolas Combremont, Panagiota Fatourou, Patricia Moreira, Renate Hellerud, Rouna Ali, Steph Lewis, Steve Conway, Tajan Tober, Terry Noctor, Thomas Mayes, Vince Calderhead

AUTHOR THANKS Mary FitzpatrickMany thanks to the inimitable J4 in Dar es Salaam, to the Mtemere entry gate rangers at Selous Game Reserve, to Matt Phillips for all the assistance, wise perspectives and patience,

to my co-authors for their professionalism and their help with so many extra bits and pieces of information, and – most of all – to Rick, Christopher, Dominic and Gabriel for the companionship and humour on this and all our journeys.

Stuart ButlerResearching sections of the Tanzania, Kenya and East Africa guidebooks on one trip meant I was away from home for a long time, so I must first and foremost thank my wife for holding things together at home – again – and my children for once again going without their daddy for so long. In Tanzania I would like to thank Rama for driving, William at Kiroyera Tours, Louise and Chris at Lakeshore Lodge, Canon Shaban, Mercedes Bailey, Michelle Attala, Nick Greaves in Katavi, Des and Kim in Mahale Mountains and all the wildlife guides I had who never failed to amaze me with their knowledge.

Anthony HamHeartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips and Mary Fitzpatrick, two wise companions of the Africa road of long-standing. Thanks also to Sandy Evans, (Manyara Ranch Conservancy), Ingela Jansson (Ngorongoro Lion Project), Daniel Rosengren and Craig Packer (Serengeti Lion project) and Peter Ndirangu. To Marina, Carlota and Valentina – next time with you.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

402

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Paula HardyDoors opened in Dar es Salaam, Zanzi-bar and beyond thanks to the generosity of Mohammed Abdul Samad, Stefanie Schoetz, Suzanne Degeling, Said el-Gheity, Martin Mhando, Bobby McKenna, Simai Mohammed Said, Christian and Tammy Moorhouse-Chilcott, Hafsa Mbamba, Nassor Haji, Eliakira Pallangyo, David Bega, Russell Bridgewood, Julie Lawrence, Mohammed Okala and Kelly Atkins. The biggest thank you of all, though, goes to Nasir Mussa, for so many laughs along the way, and Harold Webb and David Hardy for their endless adventuring in East Africa.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat-ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Cheetahs, Serengeti National Park. © Mitsuaki Iwago/Corbis.

THIS BOOK This 6th edition of Lonely Planet’s Tanzania guidebook was researched and written by Mary Fitzpatrick, Stuart Butler, Anthony Ham and Paula Hardy. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Matt Phillips

Product Editors Briohny Hooper, Luna SooSenior Cartographer Corey HutchisonBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Kate Chapman, Melanie Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Paul Harding, Victoria Harrison, Andi Jones, Kellie Langdon, Jenna Myers, Saralinda Turner

Assisting Cartographer Mick GarrettCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Sasha Baskett, Ryan Evans, Campbell McKenzie, Claire Naylor, Martine Power, Diana Saeng-kham, Samantha Tyson, Tracy Whitmey, Amanda Williamson

403

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAbushiri Revolt 135accommodation 18, 364-5,

see also individual locations

costs 365language 395

activities 19, 20, 35-43, see also individual activities

African buffaloes, see buffaloes

African elephants, see elephants

African fish eagles 347, 346AIDS 325, 388air travel 375-6, 381-2altitude sickness 391-2Amani Nature Reserve 141-3Amani sunbirds 141Amboni Caves 140amoebic dysentery 391amusement parks 70, 118animals, see wildlife,

individual species antelopes, see also

sitatungas, waterbucksBiharamulo 232Katavi National Park 251 Ruaha National Park 268

aquariums 101archaeological sites

Engaruka 185Isimila Stone Age Site

267-8Katuruka Heritage Site

235 Laetoli 192Oldupai Gorge 189

architecture 88area codes 15, 372art galleries, see museums

& galleries

arts 128, 326-8, see also dance, literature, music

Arusha 154-66, 156-7accommodation 154-9activities 154dangers 159drinking 163food 159-63immigration 164internet access 164medical services 164nightlife 163shopping 163-6sights 154tourist information 164travel to/from 164-5travel within 166

Arusha National Park 166-71, 167

ATMs 369augur buzzards 347

BBabati 216baboons 335, 334

Lake Manyara National Park 175

Mikumi National Park 259Sange Beach 134-5

Bagamoyo 127-9balloon safaris 193banded green sunbirds 141Barabaig people 217bargaining 369bateleurs 347, 347bathrooms 372Bawe 99beaches 12, 16, 44, 70, 12

Bububu (Fuji Beach) 100Coco Beach 55Jakobsen’s (Mwama-

hunga) Beach 241Jambiani 111-13Kendwa 104-5Kigamboni 72-4Kilwa Masoko 296

Mafia 287-8Makoba Beach 120Mangapwani 100Matemwe 105-6Matvilla Beach 221Mbudya 72Mbuyuni Beach 120Paje 110-11Pongwe 107-8Sange Beach 134-5Ushongo Beach 134Verani Beach 123-4Vumawimbi Beach 123Zanzibar 104

beer 360bicycle travel, see cyclingBiharamulo 232Biharamulo Game Reserve

232bilharzia 390birds 347-9, see also

individual speciesbirdwatching 18, 26, 42

Amani Nature Reserve 141-3

Arusha National Park 169-70

Chumbe Island Coral Park 101

Jozani Forest 108Katavi National Park 251Kilombero Valley 263Lake Babati 216Lake Eyasi 179-80Lake Manyara National

Park 175Lake Natron 187-8Lake Singidani 218Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174Mbizi Forest Reserve 253Mikumi National Park 259Mkomazi National Park

151Ruaha National Park 268 Rubondo Island National

Park 230

Saa Nane National Park 223

Saadani National Park 129-32

Selous Game Reserve 292 Serengeti National Park

190-7Tarangire National Park

171-4 tours 26, 55Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 261black rhinoceros 343, 342

Mkomazi National Park 151

Ngorongoro Crater 180Selous Game Reserve 292 Serengeti National

Park 191blue monkeys 336, 337

Empakaai Crater 183-4Lake Manyara National

Park 176boat cruises

Dar es Salaam 55Kigamboni 73 Menai Bay 115 Pangani River 133Rubondo Island National

Park 230Wami River 129

boat safarisSaadani National Park 130Selous Game Reserve 292

boat travel 379-81, see also dhow travel, ferry travel

boating 42Bongoyo island 71books 291, 314, 327

health 387hiking 272history 300

border crossingsto/from Burundi 376to/from Kenya 376to/from Kisii 377to/from Malawi 377-8

404

IND

EX B-D

border crossings continuedto/from Mombasa 376to/from Mozambique

378to/from Nairobi 376-7to/from Rwanda 378to/from Uganda 378to/from Voi 377to/from Zambia 378-9

Brachiosaurus Brancai 303Bububu (Fuji Beach) 100budget travel 18 budgeting 15buffaloes 339, 338

Arusha National Park 168

Katavi National Park 251Kilimajaro Conservancy

208-9 Lake Manyara National

Park 175-7Mikumi National Park

259Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 205 Ngorongoro Crater 180 Ruaha National Park 268Selous Game Reserve

292 Selous-Niassa Wildlife

Corridor 284Serengeti National

Park 191Tarangire National Park

171-4Bujora 229Bukoba 232-6, 233Bulabo Dance Festival 229bus travel 376-9, 383 bushbabies, see lesser

galagos, greater galagos

bushbucks 168, 181, 230bushwalking, see hiking,

trekking, walking safarisbusiness hours 15, 370butterflies 108Bwejuu 109-10

Ccamping 364, 365canoe safaris 29, 170 canoeing 170, 263Cape Buffaloes, see

buffaloes car travel 383-4

driving licences 383fuel 383-4hire 384 insurance 384language 398road rules 384to/from Tanzania 376

caracals 333, 332cathedrals, see churches &

cathedrals caves

Amboni Caves 140Bendera Cave 120Kilwa Masoko 296Mangapwani 100Mpapaini Caves 120Pongwe 107slave cave 100

cell phones 14, 372central Tanzania 47,

210-18, 211climate 210culture 210highlights 211nature 210travel seasons 210

Chagga people 204Chake Chake 117-20, 118Changuu 99Chapwani 99cheetahs 331, 331

Kilimajaro Conservancy 208-9

Ruaha National Park 268 Serengeti National


171-4Chief Kimweri 142Chief Mkwawa 266children, travel with 44-5

Dar es Salaam 71chimpanzees 12, 250, 335,

12, 334-5 Gombe Stream National

Park 245-6Mahale Mountains

National Park 246-8 Rubondo Island National

Park 230 tracking 12, 42

Chole Island 288cholera 387-8Chumbe Island Coral

Park 101Chunya 277-8churches & cathedrals

Anglican Cathedral 80Anglican Church 213

Azania Front Lutheran Church 52

Lutheran Cathedral 213Mater Misericordiae

Cathedral 234St Joseph Cathedral 52St Joseph’s Cathedral 80St Paul’s Church 306

cichlids 223, 248, 249, 279climate 14, 19-21, 365-6,

see also individual regions

coffee 199, 359colobus monkeys 336, 336


Jozani Forest 108Kiwengwa-Pongwe

Forest Reserve 107Mahale Mountains

National Park 246Ngezi Forest Reserve 123Rubondo Island National

Park 230 Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 261conservation 358, see

also marine parks & reserves, national parks & reserves

marine life 74, 101, 115, 290

wildlife 55consulates 366costs 15courses

cooking 105, 154craft 82language 82, 368

crater highlands 38, 183-6credit cards 369crocodiles

Grumeti River 191-2Katavi National Park 251Mikumi National Park

259Selous Game Reserve

292Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 261Cultural Tourism Programs

Arusha 160Central Tanzania 217Engaruka 185Karatu 178Lake Eyasi 180Lake Natron 187Morogoro 255Mto wa Mbu 174Pangani 133Ruaha 160-1, 269

culture 324-6currency 14, 368-9customs regulations 366cycling 42-3, 101-2, 398

Ddalla-dallas 385dance 229, 326-7dangers, see health, safetyDar es Salaam 46, 50-74,

51, 54, 56, 72accommodation 50,

57-62activities 53-5children, travel with 71climate 50dangers 66drinking 64-5emergencies 66entertainment 65festivals & events 57food 50, 62-4highlights 51history 51-2immigration 66internet access 66medical services 67nightlife 64-5postal services 67shopping 65-6sights 52-3telephone services 67tourist information 67tours 53travel seasons 50travel to/from 67-9travel within 69-70walking tours 59

Dar es Salaam Marine Reserve 71

Daraja la Mungu (Bridge of God) 278

dengue fever 388dhow travel 380, 382, 5,

see also boat cruises, boat travel

diarrhoea 391dik-diks 151, 168 dinosaurs 303diptheria 388disabilities, travellers

with 372diving 12, 17-18, 40-2,

70, 39costs 41environmental

concerns 41Kendwa 104Kigomasha Peninsula 124


405IN

DEX D

- HMafia 288Mafia Island Marine

Park 290Matemwe 105Misali 120Mnemba 100Nungwi 102 operators 42Paje 111Zanzibar Archipelago 82

Dodoma 211-14, 212dolphins 101, 115, 133drinking water 391drinks 360, 395-7 driving, see car traveldriving licences 383duikers


Jozani Forest 108Mahale Mountains

National Park 246 Ras Mkumbi 288 Serengeti National

Park 191

EEastern Arc mountains 356economy 314education 162, 315, 326Eid al-Fitr 87elands

Katavi National Park 251 Mkomazi National

Park 151Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 205 Serengeti National

Park 191 electricity 366elephants 340, 341


Katavi National Park 251 Kilimajaro Conservancy

208-9 Lake Manyara National

Park 175-7Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174Mikumi National Park

259 Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 205 Ngorongoro Crater 180-1 Ruaha National Park 268Rubondo Island National

Park 230Selous Game Reserve

292

Selous-Niassa Wildlife Corridor 284

Serengeti National Park 192

Tarangire National Park 171-4

embassies 366emergencies 397environment 353-8environmental issues

356, 358etiquette 80, 314, 325

food 359, 360events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 15

FFenga Rock-Art Complex

214ferry travel 382-3

MV Liemba 243, 248 MV Victoria 236

festivals & events 19-21Bagamoyo Arts Festival

128Bulabo Dance Festival

229Eid al-Fitr 87Festival of the Dhow

Countries 20goat races 57Jahazi Literary & Jazz

Festival 87Mwaka Kogwa 87, 114, 21Sauti za Busara 87Swahili Fashion Week 57Zanzibar International

Film Festival 87filariasis 388films 87, 314fishing 43

Dar es Salaam 55Kigamboni 73Mafia 288-9

flamingos 349, 348-9Arusha National Park

169Lake Eyasi 179-80Lake Manyara National

Park 175Lake Natron 187-8 Ngorongoro Crater 180

food 63, 359-62, see also individual locations

costs 367etiquette 359, 360festivals 57language 395-7vegetarian 361

football 82Fruit Bat Sanctuary 288

GGalanos Sulphur Springs

140galleries, see museums &

galleriesgay travellers 366-7gazelles 339, see also

Grant’s gazelles, Thomson’s gazelles

Ngorongoro Crater 180 Oldupai Gorge 188Ruaha National Park 268Serengeti National

Park 191 geography 353gerenuk 339, 338giant tortoises 99giardiasis 391giraffes 340, 340


Katavi National Park 251Lake Manyara National

Park 175-7Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174Mikumi National Park

259 Rubondo Island National


Park 191 Tarangire National Park

171-4Gol Mountains 192Gombe Stream National

Park 245-6Goodall, Jane 245, 250government 314-15Grant’s gazelles 191, 268,

see also gazellesGreat Mosque 13Great Rift Valley 355greater galagos 108, 336,

336-7green-headed oriole 141Grumeti Game Reserve

191-2Grumeti River 191-2 guides & porters 37, 169,

207 guesthouses 384-5

Hhabitats 350-1Hadzabe people 179Hamamni Persian Baths 81

handicrafts 65-6, 96, 110, 264, 328

hartebeests 151, 191 hawksbill turtles 101, 287Haya people 234health 386-93

environmental hazards 391-3

infectious diseases 387-91

insurance 386-7 internet resources 387 traditional medicine 389vaccinations 386

heat exhaustion 392heat stroke 392Hehe people 266hepatitis 388hiking 16, 35-40, 146, see

also trekking, walking safaris

altitude sickness 391-2books 272hypothermia 392Irente Viewpoint 146Kindoroko Forest

Reserve 150Kitulo National Park

272-3Lake Nyasa 279-82Luhombero Peak 262Lumemo (Rumemo)

Trail 262Lushoto 144Mambo 147-8Mlalo 147Mt Nkungwe 247Mt Rungwe 278-9Mtae 147-8Mwanihana Peak 262Ngozi Peak 279Sanje Falls 262Soni 143tours 279Tukuyu 278-9Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 261-4Uluguru Mountains 259

hippopotamuses 343, 343Arusha National Park

168Grumeti River 191-2Katavi National Park 251Lake Babati 216Lake Manyara National

Park 175-7Mikumi National Park

259Mto Nyange 296Ngorongoro Crater 180

406

IND

EX H - M

hippopotamuses continuedRubondo Island National

Park 230Selous Game Reserve

292Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 261 historic sites 319, see also

ruinsBagamoyo Town 127Gangilonga Rock 264Kidichi Persian Baths 81Livingstone’s Tembe 239 Slave Chambers 80

history 266, 316-23Abushiri Revolt 135Arusha Declaration

320-1colonial era 318democracy 323European migration 317independence 319Kilwa Kisiwani 299Lushoto 144Maji Maji rebellion 283Mikindani 308Pangani 132-3Selous Game Reserve

292Swahili culture 318Tanga 136Tanganyika African

Association 318-19trading 317Ujamaa 319

hitching 384-5HIV 325, 388holidays 370-1honey badgers 345horse riding 43, 106, 174hyenas 174, 180, 191, see

also spotted hyenas hypothermia 392

IIkombe 281Ikorongo Game Reserve 192impalas 191, 223insect bites 392-3insurance 367

car 384health 386

internet access 367-8internet resources 15, 387Iraqw people 179, 316, 324

Iringa 264-7, 265Iringa rock art 264Isimila Stone Age Site

267-8Islamic holidays 370islands 16itineraries 22-5Itungi 280

Jjackals 345, 344

Ngorongoro Crater 181Ruaha National Park 268Serengeti National

Park 191Jambiani 111-13Jibondo island 288 Jozani-Chwaka Bay

National Park 108Juani island 288

KKalambo Falls 252Kalema 249Kalenga 268Karatu 178-9Kasanga 249Katavi National Park 251-3Katesh 217Katonga 241kayaking 42, 73Kendwa 104-5Kibirizi 241Kidike Sanctuary 124Kigamboni 72-4Kigoma 241-4, 242Kigomasha Peninsula

123-4Kilimanjaro area 197-209,

198Kilimanjaro Conservancy

208-9Kilombero Valley 263Kilwa Kisiwani 13, 298-300Kilwa Kivinje 300-1Kilwa Masoko 296-8, 297Kipili 249KiSambaa language 147Kisolanza 271kiteboarding 102kitesurfing 70, 102, 110-11Kitulo National Park 40,

272-3Kiwengwa 106-7Kiwengwa-Pongwe Forest

Reserve 107Kiweni Island 121Kizimkazi 114-15

klipspringers 168, 191 Kolo Rock-Art Site 215Kondoa Rock-Art Sites

214-16Korogwe 141kudus 208-9, 268 339,

339Kwa Mungu Mountain 143Kwai 143Kwembago 146Kyela 280

LLaetoli 192Lake Babati 216Lake Chala 204Lake Eyasi 179-80Lake Manyara National

Park 175-7Lake Natron 187-8, 17-18Lake Nyasa 279-82, 383Lake Rukwa 253, 278Lake Singidani 218Lake Tanganyika 248Lake Victoria 47, 219-36,

220climate 219culture 219ferry travel 382-3highlights 220nature 219travel seasons 219

languages 147, 349-400courses 368

Lauwo, Yohani Kinyala 206Leakey, Mary 189legal matters 368leopards 331, 330


Manyara Ranch Conservancy 174

Mikumi National Park 259Mt Kilimanjaro National



171-4lesbian travellers 366-7lesser galagos 336, 336-7lilac-breasted rollers 13,

349, 13, 348Lindi 301-3, 302lions 331, 8-9, 17, 330,

331, 352Katavi National Park 251Kilimajaro Conservancy

208-9

Lake Manyara National Park 175-6


Mikumi National Park 259Ngorongoro Crater 188Serengeti National

Park 191Tarangire National

Park 171literature 327, see also

booksLiuli 281-2Livingstone, David 80,

132, 308Livingstone Memorial

Museum 244-5Livingstone’s Tembe 239Loliondo Game Controlled

Area 192Luguru people 259Lukuba Island 221Lukwika-Lumesule Game

Reserve 312Lupanga Peak 259Lushoto 144-7, 145Lutindi Cultural Tourism

Project 141

MMaasai people 170, 209, 11Machame 203Machame Route 208Mafia 287-92, 25, 288Mafia Island Marine Park

290Mahale Mountains National

Park 246-8Mahiwa 310Maji Maji rebellion 283Makambako 270-1Makonde people 311Makonde Plateau 310-12Makunduchi 114malaria 388-90Mambo 147-8Mangapwani 100Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174maps 368Marangu 203-5Marangu Route 207-8marine parks & reserves

356Dar es Salaam Marine

Reserve 71 Mafia Island Marine

Park 290 Maziwe Marine Reserve

133 Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

407IN

DEX M

- NMnazi Bay-Ruvuma

Estuary Marine Park 309-10

markets 143, 176Arusha 163Babati 216Chake Chake 119Darajani Market 80-1Estella market 81fish market (Bagamoyo)

127fish market (Dar es

Salaam) 52-3fish market (Tumbe) 123Ghorofani Market 180Iringa 264Karatu 178Kilombero Market 163Lyulilo 280Maasai Market 223Mt Meru Curios & Crafts

Market 163Mtwara 305Mwaloni Market 223Mwanza 223Mwigobero Market 221Ngaramtoni Market 163Songea 282Tengeru Market 163

Masasi 310-11Matema 280-1Matemwe 105-6Maziwe Marine Reserve 133Mbaga 148-9Mbamba Bay 282Mbeya 274-7, 275Mbeya Peak 277Mbizi Forest Reserve 253Mbozi Meteorite 276Mbudya 72measures 368media 315medical services 387Menai Bay 115-16Menai Bay Conservation

Area 115meningococcal meningitis

390Michamvi Peninsula 108-9Mikindani 308-9Mikumi 260-1Mikumi National Park

259-60Misali 120Mkoani 121Mkokotoni 99-100Mkomazi National Park 151Mlalo 147Mnemba 100

mobile phones 14, 372Mombo 143Momella Route 168-9money 14, 368-70

discount cards 366mongoose 345, 344 monkeys, see also blue

monkeys, colobus mon-keys, vervet monkeys

Jozani Forest 108Mahale Mountains

National Park 246Mt Kilimanjaro National

Park 205 Ngezi Forest Reserve 123 Pongwe 107Ras Mkumbi 288Saa Nane National

Park 223Morogoro 255, 258-9, 258Moshi 197-203, 200

accommodation 197-9activities 197drinking 199, 201-2food 199, 201-2immigration 202internet resources 202medical services 202shopping 202sights 197tourist information 202travel to/from 202-3travel within 203

mosques 213motorcycle travel, see car

travelMpanda 249-51Msangamkuu Peninsula

309Msimbati Peninsula 309Mt Hanang 37-8, 217Mt Kilimanjaro 10, 37, 197,

205-8, 11, 39trekking 206-8

Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 205-8

Mt Meru 37, 166, 168-9Mt Nkungwe 40Mt Rungwe 278-9Mtae 147-8Mto wa Mbu 174-5Mtwara 303-7, 304Mufindi 271Muheza 140museums & galleries

Beit el-Ajaib (House of Wonders) 79

Beit el-Sahel 79Catholic Museum 127

Centre for African Development Through Economics & the Arts 305

Chagga Live Museum 204Kagera Museum 233-4Livingstone Memorial

Museum 244-5Maji Maji Museum 282Mwalimu Julius K

Nyerere Museum 222Nafasi Art Space 53 National Museum &

House of Culture 52National Museum of

History & Culture 79Natural History Museum

154Oldupai Museum 189Pemba Museum 117Sukuma Museum 229Urithi Tanga Museum

136Village Museum 53Zanzibar Gallery 96

music 326-7festivals 87taarab 95

Musira Island 232-3Musoma 220-2Mwaka Kogwa 87, 114, 21Mwanza 222-9, 224-5

accommodation 225-6dangers 227drinking 226-7food 226-7internet access 227medical services 227shopping 227sights 222-3tourist information 228tours 223-4travel to/from 228travel within 229

Mweka Route 208

Nnational parks & reserves

9, 354-6, 357, see also marine parks & reserves

accommodation 364 Amani Nature Reserve

141-3Arusha National Park

166-71, 167Biharamulo Game

Reserve 232Gombe Stream National

Park 245-6

Jozani-Chwaka Bay National Park 108

Katavi National Park 251-3

Kitulo National Park 40, 272-3

Lake Manyara National Park 175-7

Lukwika-Lumesule Game Reserve 312

Mahale Mountains National Park 246-8

Mikumi National Park 259-60


Mt Kilimanjaro National Park 205-8

Ngezi Forest Reserve 123Ngorongoro Conserva-

tion Area 38, 182, 356, 184-5

Ruaha National Park 268-70

Rubondo Island National Park 230-1

Saa Nane National Park 223

Saadani National Park 129-32

Serengeti National Park 9, 189-97, 190-1, 350-1

Tarangire National Park 171-4, 172

Udzungwa Mountains National Park 261-4

Ndanda 311Newala 310newspapers 368Ng’ambo, see Zanzibar

TownNgezi Forest Reserve 123Ngoni people 282Ngorongoro Conservation

Area 38, 182, 356, 184-5

Ngorongoro Crater 10, 180-3, 10

Ngurdoto Crater 166Njombe 271-2northeastern Tanzania 47,

125-51, 24-5, 126climate 125culture 125highlights 126history 127nature 125travel seasons 125wildlife 128

northern safari circuit 154-97

408

IND

EX N -T

northern Tanzania 47, 152-209, 153

climate 152culture 152highlights 153nature 152travel seasons 152

Nungwi 101-4Nyerere, Julius 222, 314,

319-22, 326

OOld Fort 79Oldupai Gorge 188-9olive baboons 335, 335Olpopongi Maasai Cultural

Village 209onchocerciasis (river

blindness) 390opening hours 15, 370orchids 272-3oryx 151ostriches 187, 268, 349,

349

PPahi Rock-Art Site 215painting 327-8Pangani 132-5Pare Mountains 38, 148-50Pare people 150parks & gardens

Botanical Gardens 52Forodhani Gardens 79Jozani Forest 108

pelicans 179-80, 218Pemba 116-24, 116

travel to/from 117travel within 117

Pemba Channel Conservation Area 120

Pemba Essential Oil Distillery 117-18

Pemba flying foxes 124photography 370planning 15, see also

individual locationsbudgeting 15, 365, 367calendar of events 19-21costs 15internet resources 15itineraries 22-5safaris 26-34Tanzania basics 14

Tanzania’s regions 46-8travel seasons 14travelling with children

44-5, 71plants 354poliomyelitis 390politics 314-15Pongwe 107-8population 315porters & guides 37, 169,

207 postal services 370potable water 391public holidays 370-1

Rrabies 390radio 368raptors 169, 347Ras Kutani 74religion 315, 325-6river blindness 390road rules 384road safety 384Robert, Shaaban 327rock art 13, 17

Fenga Rock-Art Complex 214

Iringa rock art 264Kolo Rock-Art Site 215Kondoa Rock-Art Sites

214-16 Pahi Rock-Art Site 215 Thawi Rock-Art Site

214-15Rock City 222-3rock hyrax 343, 342-3Rongai Route 208roseate terns 101Ruaha National Park 13,

268-70, 351Rubondo Island National

Park 230-1ruins 13, 17, 316

Arabic Fort 299Chwaka Ruins 123Engaruka 185Great Mosque 299Husuni Kubwa 299Husuni Ndogo 299Juani 288Kaole Ruins 127-8Kilwa Kisiwani 299Kunduchi Ruins 70Makutani 299Maruhubi Palace 81Mbweni Ruins 82Mkame Ndume (Pujini)

Ruins 120-1

Mtoni Palace 81prison ruins 308Ras Mkumbuu Ruins 120Songo Mnara 300Tongoni Ruins 137Toten Island 136

Ruvula 309

SSaa Nane National Park

223 Saadani National Park

129-32Saadani Village 131saddle-billed storks 349safaris 26-34, 31, see

also boat safaris, walking safaris, wildlife drives

boat safaris 29canoe safaris 29costs 27-8destinations 26itineraries 29-32operators 33-4, 224, 241tipping 27vehicle safaris 28-9

safety 45, 371sailing 42Same 148Sandawe people 217Sauti za Busara 19schistosomiasis (bilharzia)

390sculpture 328sea turtles 354

Kiweni Island 121Menai Bay 115Ras Kutani 74Songo Songo 301

seaweed 110, 112secretary birds 347, 346-7Selous Game Reserve 13,

292-6, 294Selous-Niassa Wildlife

Corridor 284Serengeti National Park 9,

189-97, 190-1, 350-1Serengeti Wildebeest

Migration 20, 21Seronera River 191servals 333, 332-3Shagayu Peak 147Shira Plateau Route 208shopping, see bargaining,

markets, individual locations

language 397Singida 218

Sitalike 252-3sitatungas 230, 232slave cave 100Slave Chambers 80slave trade 81, 132sleeping sickness 390snake bites 393snorkelling 17-18, 40-2

Bawe 99Bongoyo island 71Changuu 99Dar es Salaam 53, 55Kigamboni 73Kiweni Island 121Lake Tanganyika 248Mafia 288Maziwe Marine Reserve

133Misali 120Mnemba 100Ras Kutani 74Ruvula 309

Songea 282-4Songo Mnara 300Songo Songo 301Soni 143Soulous 25southeastern Tanzania 48,

285-312, 286climate 285culture 285highlights 286nature 285travel seasons 285wildlife 299

southern highlands 48, 254-84, 23-5, 256-7

climate 254culture 254highlights 256-7nature 254travel seasons 254

spas 82, 159spotted hyenas 181, 191,

345, 344-5 Stiegler’s Gorge 292Stone Town 9, 84-5, 9 see

also Zanzibar TownSukuma people 229Sumbawanga 253superb starlings 349, 348Swahili language 394-400 Swahili time 372

Ttaarab 95Tabora 239-41, 240Tanga 136-40, 138-9


409IN

DEX T - Z

Tanzania 22-5Tarangire National Park

171-4, 172taxis 385telephone services 14, 372Tendunguru 303Thawi Rock-Art Site 214-15Thomson’s gazelles 191,

339, see also gazellestime 14, 372, 397tipping 370toilets 372Tongoni Ruins 137topis 191, 251 topography 353Tosamaganga 267-8tourist information 372,

see also individual locations

tours 381, see also Cultural Tourism Programs, individual locations

coffee plantations 199, 232

cultural 53, 83, 86-7, 217, 255

cycling 232touts 90traditional medicine 389train travel 379, 385transport 15, 398travellers cheques 370travellers’ diarrhoea 391travel to/from Tanzania

375-81air 375-6bus 376-9car 376motorcycle 376

travel within Tanzania 381-5

trekking 16, 35-40costs 36Crater Highlands 186environmental

considerations 38guides 37Mt Hanang 217Mt Kilimanjaro 206-8Mt Meru 168-9operators 40porters 37

tribal groups 324trypanosomiasis (sleeping

sickness) 390tuberculosis 390-1Tukuyu 278-9Tumbatu 99-100Tumbe 123

Tunduru 284 turtles 101, 105, 120, see

also hawksbill turtles, sea turtles

typhoid 391

UUdzungwa Mountains 38Udzungwa Mountains

National Park 261-4Ujiji 244-5Ukerewe Island 229-30Uluguru Mountains 40, 259Umbwe Route 208UN International Criminal

Tribunal for Rwanda Court 154

Unesco World Heritage Sites 356

Usambara Mountains 38, 141-8

Usangi 150

Vvacations 370-1vaccinations 386vegetarian food 361vehicle safaris 28-9 vervet monkeys 229, 335,

335visas 14, 373volcanoes

Empakaai Crater 183-5Mt Hanang 37-8, 217Mt Kilimanjaro 10, 37,

197, 205-8, 11, 39Mt Meru 37, 166, 168-9Mt Rungwe 278-9Ngozi Peak 279Ol Doinyo Lengai 185-6 Olmoti Crater 183

volunteering 202, 373

Wwalking safaris 29

Katavi National Park 251Lake Manyara National

Park 176Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174Rubondo Island National

Park 230Saadani National Park


292Serengeti National

Park 193Tarangire National

Park 172

walking toursDar es Salaam 59

Wambaa 121Wami River 129warthogs 208-9, 343, 342water 391water parks 70waterbucks 168, 181, 339waterfalls

Kalambo Falls 252Kaporogwe Falls 278Luhuji Falls 272Soni Falls 143

weather 14, 19-21, 365-6, see also individual locations

websites, see internet resources

weights 368West Kilimanjaro 208-9Western Ngorongoro 188-9western Tanzania 48, 237-

53, 23-5, 238climate 237culture 237highlights 238nature 237travel seasons 237 wildlife 246

Wete 121-3, 122white-backed vultures

347, 346wild dogs 345, 345


Ruaha National Park 268Selous Game Reserve

292 Selous-Niassa Wildlife

Corridor 284wildcats 333, 333wildebeest 339, 338-9

calving season 19Lake Manyara National

Park 175-7migration 194 Mikumi National Park

259 Ngorongoro Crater 180Serengeti National Park

189-91 Tarangire National

Park 171wildlife 16, 329-52, 353-4,

see also individual species

arboreal primates 336, 336-7

big cats 331, 330-1birds 349, 348-9

birds of prey 347, 346-7carnivores 345, 344-5cud-chewing mammals

339, 338-9endangered species 354ground primates 335,

334-5habitats 350-1, 350-1hoofed mammals 340,

343, 340-3small cats 333, 332-3

wildlife drivesArusha National Park

166, 168Lake Manyara National

Park 176Manyara Ranch

Conservancy 174Saadani National Park


292Serengeti National


171-2wildlife reserves 356wildlife watching 20, 32,

44, 353wine 214women in Tanzania 326women travellers 373-4woodcarving 328work 374World’s End Viewpoint 277

Yyellow fever 391yoga 82, 91, 102 Yohani Kinyala Lauwo 206

ZZanzibar 77-116, 78Zanzibar Archipelago 46,

75-124, 76climate 75culture 75etiquette 80highlights 76history 76-7nature 75travel seasons 75

Zanzibar Butterfly Centre 108

Zanzibar Town 77-98accommodation 87-91activities 82ATMs 97courses 82

410

IND

EX Z

Zanzibar Town continueddangers 96-7drinking 94entertainment 95festivals & events 87food 92-4internet access 97medical services 97nightlife 94postal services 97

shopping 95-6sights 77-82telephone services 97tourist information 97tours 82-3, 86-7travel to/from 97-8travel within 98

zebras 340, 329, 340-1Arusha National Park 168Katavi National Park 251

Kilimajaro Conservancy 208-9

Lake Manyara National Park 175


Mikumi National Park 259

Ngorongoro Crater 180 Serengeti National

Park 191

Tarangire National Park 171-4

zoos & wildlife reserves 356

Kilimanjaro Conservancy 208-9

Meserani Snake Park 154Selous Game Reserve

292-6


411N

OTES

412

NO

TES

413N

OTES

414

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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