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OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adrienne Nielsen, Max Dickinson, Stella Italiano, Yeonghoon Kim

WRITER THANKSCatherine Le NevezMerci mille fois first and foremost to Julian, and to everyone throughout Western Europe who has provided insights and inspiration over the years. Huge thanks also to Destination Editor Daniel Fahey and everyone at LP. As ever, a heartfelt merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur and neveu for sustaining my love of Western Europe.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Hand of Constantine the Great statue, Capitoline Museums, Rome. Stefano Politi Markovina / AWL ©

Behind the ScenesBehind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

688

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Western Europe guide-book was curated by Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Marc Di Duca, Duncan Garwood, Catherine Le Nevez, Korina Miller, John Noble, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Andy Sym-ington, Donna Wheeler, Neil Wilson and Karla Zimmerman. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editors Daniel Fahey, Gemma Graham, Lau-ren Keith, James Smart, Tom Stainer, Anna Tyler

Product Editors Anne Mason, Jenna MyersSenior Cartographer Mark GriffithsBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Janet Austin, Sarah Bailey, Michelle Bennett, Kate Chapman, Katie Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Bruce Evans, Carly Hall, Trent Holden, Kate James, Amy Karafin, Kellie Langdon, Sam Forge, Jodie Martire, Anne Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Sarah Reid,

Gabbi Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala TwomeyAssisting Cartographer Valentina KremenchutskayaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Cheree Broughton, Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Kate Chapman, Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Joel Cotterell, Shona Gray, Jane Grisman, Andi Jones, Ivan Kovanovic, Catherine Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Rachel Rawling, Kirsten Rawlings, Kathryn Rowan, Ellie Simpson, Dora Whitaker

689

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

AAachen 320-1accommodation 668-9, see

also individual locationsAcropolis 338, 18activities 28-31, 669-70, see

also individual activities, individual locations

Aegina 344Aeolian Islands 487Agia Roumeli 370Agrigento 496-7air travel

to/from Western Europe 676

within Western Europe 676-7

Aix-en-Provence 240-1Ajaccio 252-3Alfama 19, 530, 19Algarve, the 542-6Alhambra 15, 623, 626, 15Alsace 214-15Amalfi 488-9Amalfi Coast 488-90Amboise 217-18Amsterdam 17, 503-12, 506-

7, 508, 17accommodation 508-9drinking & nightlife 510-11entertainment 511food 509-10shopping 511-12sights 503-7tourist information 512tours 507travel to/from 512travel within 512

Andalucía 616-30Andorra 597Antwerp 85-9, 86

aquariumsL’Aquàrium (Barcelona)

592Musée Océanographique

de Monaco 251Oceanário 531 Oceanogràfic 609 Aragón 600-6

Aran Islands 408-9Arc de Triomphe 188archaeological sites, see

also historic sitesArènes 242Conimbriga 551Herculaneum 485Inishmór 408Les Arènes 236Palatino 422Parco Archeologico della

Neapolis 495Pompeii 485Rock of Cashel 399Roman Forum 422, 12Stonehenge 142Templo Romano 546Théâtre Romain 223Valley of the Temples

495-6Villa Jovis 486

architecture 26-7Casa Batlló 590Ciudad de las Artes y las

Ciencias 608La Pedrera 589Royal Crescent (Bath) 143

Arles 242art 26art galleries, see museums

& galleriesAssisi 478-9Asturias 606-8Athens 337-47, 340-1

accommodation 342-3drinking 345entertainment 345festivals & events 342food 343-5

shopping 345sights 338-42tours 342travel to/from 346travel within 347

ATMs 672, 673Austria 38-71, 40

accommodation 38, 68business hours 68-9costs 68, 70food 38, 70highlights 40itineraries 39money 68telephone services 69tourist information 69transport to/from 69-70travel within 70-1

Avebury 141Avignon 241-3Ávila 583

BB&Bs 668Bacharach 310-11Baden-Baden 305Baixa 530Balearic Islands 611-16Bamberg 300-1Barcelona 585-98, 586-7,

590-1accommodation 592-3drinking & nightlife 595-6entertainment 596festivals & events 592food 593-5shopping 596sights 585-92tourist information 597travel to/from 597travel within 597-8

Bari 490bars 26Basel 658-9basilicas, see churches &

cathedrals

Basque Country 600-6Bastia 253-4Bastille Day 30Bath 20, 142-5, 144, 20Bavaria 285-302Bayeux 208-9Bayeux Tapestry 208beaches 26

Andalucía 628Baleal 547Biarritz 232Cascais 541D-Day beaches 209Ibiza 616Kefallonia 380Kos 372Lefkada 370, 27Lagos 544Mallorca 614Menorca 613Mykonos 355Naxos 359Normandy 209Playa de la Concha 602Rhodes 369, 370Samos 374-5Santorini 361Skiathos 377St-Tropez 249Valencia 609Viana do Castelo 559

Beaune 220-1beer 25, 15, see also

breweriesBeilstein 313Belém 530Belfast 409-14, 412Belgium 72-107, 74

accommodation 72, 104activities 104business hours 104climate 72costs 104food 18, 72, 104, 106highlights 74itineraries 76


690

IND

EX B-C

public holidays 104telephone services 104tourist information 104-5travel to/from 105travel within 106-7visas 105

Berchtesgaden 293-4Berlenga Grande 547Berlin 261-77, 264, 266,

270-1, 272-3accommodation 270-3drinking & nightlife

275-6entertainment 276-7food 273-5itineraries 265sights 261-9tourist information 276tours 269-70travel to/from 276travel within 277

Berlin Wall 14, 267, 268, 14Bern 648-9Bernkastel-Kues 313Biarritz 232-3bicycle travel, see cyclingBig Ben 113Bilbao 604-6Black Forest 305-6Blarney Castle 402Blenheim Palace 148Blois 215-17boat travel 669, 676, see

also ferriesBologna 462-4Bonifacio 254Bonn 318Book of Kells 388Bordeaux 230-2Bouillon 99Braga 559-60Brandenburger Tor 261Braubach 312Bregenzerwald 66Bremen 329-35breweries

Augustiner Bräustübl 60Beck’s Brewery 330Brouwerij ‘t IJ 510Cantillon Brewery 76Franciscan Well

Brewery 401Guiness Storehouse 389Heineken Experience

506

Jopenkerk 513MBC 227Rathaus Bräuerei 651Rising Sons 401Stella Artois brewery 84

bridgesAlte Brücke (Heidelberg)

304Carrick-a-Rede Rope

Bridge 414-15, 17Erasmusburg 518Kapellbrücke 650-1Krämerbrücke 284Pont du Gard 237Ponte dei Sospiri 453Ponte Vasco da Gama

534Pont St-Bénezet 242Spreuerbrücke 650Steinerne Brücke 310Tower Bridge 113

Britain 108-79, 110-11, see also England, Scotland, Wales

accommodation 174activities 174-5climate 108costs 174, 176drinking 177food 177highlights 110-11holidays 175money 175travel to/from 176travel within 178-9

British Museum 121Brittany 210-11Bruges 92-6, 94Brussels 73-84, 78

accommodation 77-80drinking & nightlife 81-2entertainment 82food 80-1shopping 82-3sights 73-7tours 77

Buçaco Forest 552budget 23Burano 455Burgos 581Burgundy 219-26bus travel 678

tours 681

CCáceres 630cafes 26Cambridge 151-3

Camp Nou 596campervan travel 678camping 668Cannes 248-9Cantabria 606-8Canterbury 140-1Capitoline Museum 422-3Capri 484-6car travel, see drivingCarcassonne 235Cardiff 159-60Carnevale (Venice) 28, 457Cascais 541-2cash 672-3Castilla y León 579-83Castilla-La Mancha 584-5Castle Howard 155-6castles, fortresses &

palaces 24Alcázar 616, 618Alhambra 15, 623,

626, 15Aljafería 600-1Binnenhof 515Blarney Castle 402Bock Casemates 100Burg Eltz 314Castel Sant’Angelo 428Castell de Montjuïc 592Castello di Miramare 462Castelo de São Jorge

530Castelo dos Mouros 540Castelo Silves 545Castle Howard 468Château d’Azay-

le-Rideau 218-19Château de Bouillon 99Château de Chambord 217Château de Chenonceau 218Château de Cheverny 217Château de Chillon 645Château de St-Malo 211Château de Versailles

204-5Château Royal de Blois

215-16Conwy Castle 160Dunvegan Castle 173Edinburgh Castle 161Festung

Hohensalzburg 57Fortaleza (Peniche) 548Fortaleza de Sagres 545Fort du Petit Bé 211Gravensteen 89, 25

Hampton Court Palace 124

Het Steen 85Hofburg (Innsbruck) 63Hofburg (Vienna) 39, 13Kaiserappartements 39Kilkenny Castle 397Munich Residenz 285,

286Palace of Holyroodhouse

162Palácio Nacional da

Pena 540Palácio Nacional de

Sintra 540Palacio Real 568Palais des Ducs et des

États de Bourgogne 219

Palais des Papes 241-2Palamidi Fortress 348Palazzo dei Normanni

491Palazzo dei Priori 477Palazzo Barberini 424Palazzo Ducale 455Palazzo Petti 469Palazzo Reale 442Palazzo Vecchio 468Residenz (Salzburg) 57Royal Palace

(Amsterdam) 503Schloss Ambras 63Schloss Belvedere 43Schloss Charlottenburg

269Schloss Eggenberg 54Schloss Hellbrunn 61Schloss Neuschwanstein

295Schloss Sanssouci 274Schloss Schönbrunn 43Stirling Castle 167Tower of London 113Windsor Castle 139-40Zwinger 277-8

Catacombes, Les (Paris) 185

Catalonia 585-600cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCauseway Coast 17, 414-

15, 17cave art 229caves

Dachstein Rieseneishöhle (Innsbruck) 62

Grotta Azzurra (Capri) 486


691IN

DEX C

-E Grotta dello Smeraldo

(Amalfi Coast) 489-90Lascaux Caves 229

cell phones 674-5Cézanne, Paul 241Chamonix 21, 226-8, 21Champagne 21, 211-14, 21Chartres 205Château d’Azay-le-Rideau

218-19Château de Chambord 217Château de Chenonceau

218Château de Cheverny 217Château de Versailles

204-5Chemin de la Corniche

100, 18Chester 156-7children, travel with 670Christmas markets 31, 299

Frankfurt-am-Main 308Nuremberg 299Vienna 46

churches & cathedralsAachener Dom 320Basílica de Santa Maria

del Mar 588Basilica di San

Clemente 431Basilica di San

Francesco 479Basilica di San Giovanni

in Laterano 429Basilica di San Marco

452Basilica di San Petronio

462-3Basilica di San Pietro in

Vincoli 429Basilica di Santa Chiara

479Basilica di Santa Maria

della Salute 455Basilica di Santa Maria

in Trastevere 429Basilica di Santa Maria

Maggiore 428-9Basilica di Sant’Anasta-

sia 452Basilica di Santo Stefano

463Basilique du Sacré-Cœur

189Basilique Notre Dame de

Fourvière 222Basilique St-Rémi 212Basilique St-Sernin 234Beinhaus 62Canterbury Cathedral

140

Cappella degli Scrovegni 453

Cappella Palatina 491Cappella Sansevero 479Catedral de Burgos 581Catedral de León 581Catedral Nueva 579Catedral Vieja 579-80Cathédrale de Notre

Dame (Lausanne) 644-65

Cathédrale Notre Dame (Chartres) 205

Cathédrale Notre Dame (Reims) 212

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris 185

Cathédrale Notre-Dame (Strasbourg) 214

Cathédrale St-André 230Cathédrale St-Corentin

210Cathédrale St-Jean 222Cattedrale di Palermo

491Cattedrale di San

Giovanni Battista 445Cattedrale di San

Lorenzo 442, 477Cattedrale di San

Martino 474-5Chapelle Impériale 232Chiesa del Santissimo

Redentore 455Chiesa di San Francesco

487-8Dom (Salzburg) 57Duomo (Florence) 464Duomo (Milan) 446Duomo (Naples) 481Duomo (Pisa) 472Duomo (Siena) 475-6Église St-Germain des

Prés 184Glasgow Cathedral 167Hofkirche 63I Frari 455Igreja da Misericórdia

543Igreja de Santa Maria

549Igreja de São Francisco

546, 553King’s College Chapel

151La Catedral (Barcelona)

585La Martorana 491La Sagrada Família 15,

589, 15Onze-Lieve-

Vrouwekathedraal 85

Pantheon 423Sainte-Chapelle 185Sé (Braga) 559-60Sé (Évora) 547Sé (Porto) 553Sé de Lisboa 530Sé Velha 550-1St Canice’s Cathedral

397St Patrick’s Cathedral

389-91St Paul’s Cathedral 116St Peter’s Basilica 425St-Baafskathedraal 89Stephansdom 42Westminster Abbey 112York Minster 153

Cinque Terre 443-4Clervaux 103Cliffs of Moher 405climate 22, 28-31, see also

individual countriescoastal roads 247Cochem 312-13Coimbra 550-2Cologne 315-18, 316Colosseum (Rome) 422, 7Conimbriga 551Connemara 408consulates 671convents, see monasteries

& conventsConwy Castle 160Córdoba 620-3Corfu 378-85Cork 398-402, 400corniches 247Corniglia 444Cornwall 159Corsica 251-4costs 23, see also

individual countriesCôte d’Azur 243-51Côte d’Or 221Cotswolds 149credit cards 673Crete 363-8, 364-5cruises 681currency 22, 672customs regulations 670Cyclades 355-63cycling 669, 677

tours 681

DDalí, Salvador 600dangers, see safe travelDanube Valley 51-3

D-Day beaches (France) 209

Delfshaven 519Delft 516-18Delos 358Delphi 351Den Haag (The Hague)

514-16Derry 415-16Diekirch 103Dijon 219-20discount cards 670Dingle 409diving

Cinque Terre 443Lagos 544Peniche 548

Dodecanese 368-73DomQuartier (Salzburg) 57Dordogne 228-30Douro 558Dresden 277-80driving 678-80drugs 672Dublin 21, 388-97, 393-4,

390accommodation 391-3drinking & nightlife

394-5entertainment 395-6sights 388-91tourist information 396travel to/from 396travel within 396-7

Dune du Pilat 231Düsseldorf 318-20

EEdinburgh 161-6, 164-5Edinburgh Castle 163Edinburgh Festival

Fringe 163Edinburgh International

Festival 30, 163Eiffel Tower 11, 181, 11Eisenach 283Eisenstadt 64electricity 671embassies 671emergencies 23Encierro, The (Running of

the Bulls) 605England 109-58

itineraries 109Épernay 213-14Epidavros 349Erfurt 284-5Eton 139-40

692

IND

EX E-I

events, see festivals & events

Évora 546-7Extremadura 630-1

FFaro 542-6ferries 678

to/from Western Europe 676

within Western Europe 678

festivals & events 28-31Carnival (Cologne) 315Edinburgh 163Las Fallas de San José

611Notting Hill Carnival 125Oktoberfest 15, 289Running of the Bulls

(Pamplona) 605SanFermines 605

Flanders 84-98Fira 361Florence 465-73, 466, 14

accommodation 469-70drinking & nightlife 471entertainment 471-2food 470-1sights 465-9tourist information 472travel to/from 472-3travel within 473

food 24-5, see also individual countries

footballSpain 596Portugal 538

fortresses, see castles, fortresses & palaces

France 180-259, 182accommodation 180,

255activities 256business hours 256-7climate 180costs 255food 255, 256highlights 182itineraries 181money 256public holidays 257telephone services 257travel to/from 257-8travel within 258-9visas 257

Frankfurt-am-Main 308-9, 310-11

Freiburg im Breisgau 306-8French Alps 226-8French Riviera 243-51Freud, Sigmund 43Füssen 295-6

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesGalicia 606-8Galway 405-8, 406Game of Thrones tours 414Garmisch-Partenkirchen

292-3gay travellers 671

Britain 133, 175France 201, 256Germany 275, 290, 332Italy 498Spain 632

Geneva 639-44, 642Genoa 441-3Germany 260-335, 262-3

climate 260costs 332, 334drinking & nightlife 333food 333highlights 262-3history 335itineraries 261travel to/from 333travel within 333-5

Ghent 89-92, 90Giant’s Causeway (Ireland)

414-15Gimmelwald 654Girona 598Giverny 205Glasgow 166-9, 168-9Glastonbury 147Glastonbury Festival 30Glen Coe 159Glendalough 409Granada 623-7, 624-5Grasmere 158Graubünden 661-2Graz 53-5Greece 18, 336-85, 337

accommodation 381climate 336costs 381, 383ferry routes 385, 385food 382highlights 337history 350itineraries 338

travel to/from 382-3travel within 383-5

Greenwich 120-21Grindelwald 652-3Grossglockner 67Grotte de Lascaux 229Gruyères 646

HHaarlem 512-13Hadrian’s Wall 159Hague, The (Den Haag)

514-16Halki 359Hallstatt 61-2Hamburg 321-8, 322-3Hampton Court Palace 124Hampstead 120Hania 366-8Harry Potter 140health 671Heidelberg 304-5Heiligenblut 67Herculaneum 485hiking 669-70

Cinque Terre 443Innsbruck 63Italy 498Kitzbühel 66Parque Nacional da

Peneda-Gerês 560-1Sagres 546

historic buildingsCapilla Real 623Houses of Parliament

(London) 112La Lonja 609Old Royal Naval College

121Real Mary King’s Close

161Roman Baths (Bath)

142-3Royal Observatory 121Shakespeare 149, 150Shakespeare’s Globe 116Universidad Civil 579

historic sites 24, see also archaeological sites

Colosseum 422, 17Derrynane National

Historic Park 404Óbidos Castelo, Walls &

Aqueduct 548Roman Arena (Verona)

452Teatro Greco 493

hitching 680Hofburg (Vienna) 39, 13

Hohe Tauern National Park 67

Holland, see NetherlandsHora Sfakion 370horse riding 561hostels 668-9Humboldt Forum 269Hydra 344

IIbiza 614-16Île de la Cité 185Île du Grand Bé 211Île St-Louis 185Îles de Lérins 248Îles Lavezzi 254Inishmór 408Innsbruck 62-6insurance 671-2Interlaken 651-2internet access 672internet resources 23, 668Inverness 171-2Ionian Islands 378-81Iraklio 363-6Ireland 386-419, 387

accommodation 416-17activities 417business hours 418climate 386costs 417drinking 386food 386, 416highlights 387itineraries 389money 417public holidays 418telephone services 418travel to/from 418-19travel within 419visas 418

islandsAeolian Islands 487Aran Islands 408-9Balearic Islands 611-16Capri 486-7Corfu 378-85Corsica 251-4Crete 363-8, 364-5Cyclades 355-63Dodecanese 368-73Ibiza 614-16Île de la Cité 185Île du Grand Bé 211Île St-Louis 185Îles de Lérins 248Îles Lavezzi 254Inishmor 408


693IN

DEX I-M

Ionian Islands 378-81Isle of Skye 173-9Ithaki 380Kefallonia 380Lefkada 380, 27Lesvos (Mytilini) 375-7Mallorca 612-14Menorca 613Mykonos 355-8, 356Santorini 17, 360-3,

361, 17 Skiathos 377-8

Isle of Skye 173-9Italian lakes district 451-2Italy 420-501, 421

accommodation 497-8architecture 465business hours 499climate 420costs 498food 420, 496, 498highlights 421history 441itineraries 422money 498-9public holidays 499safe travel 499telephone services 499travel to/from 499-501travel within 501visas 499

Ithaki 380itineraries 32-6, 32, 33,

35, 36

Jjamón 629Jewish heritage, see also

synagoguesBergen-Belsen 327Córdoba 622Holocaust Memorial

(Berlin) 261, 264Jüdisches Museum 268KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau

292Sachsenhausen 278

Jungfraujoch 653

Kkayaking

Ketallonia 380Lagos 544Parque Nacional da

Peneda-Gerês 561Kefallonia 380Keswick 158Kew Gardens (London)

121, 124

Kilkenny 397-8Killarney 402-3Kinsale 409Kitzbühel 66Klagenfurt 56Knights of St John 369Knossos 366Koblenz 312Kos 372-4Krems an der Donau 51-2Krimml Falls 65

LLa Sagrada Família 15,

589, 15Lago di Como 451Lago di Garda 451-2Lago Maggiore 451Lagos 544Lake District National Park

157-8Lake Geneva 644-6Languedoc-Roussillon

233-7Lapa 531Las Alpujarras 630Lascaux Caves 229Lausanne 644-5Leaning Tower of Pisa 472Lecce 487Lefkada 380, 27legal matters 672Leiden 513-14Leipzig 280-2León 581Les Calanques 239lesbian travellers 671

Britain 133, 175France 201, 256Germany 275, 290, 332Greece 375Italy 498Spain 632

Lesvos (Mytilini) 375-7Leuven 84libraries 145-79Liechtenstein 659Lille 206-8Lindos 369Linz 52-3Lisbon 530-9, 532

accommodation 534-6drinking & nightlife

537-8entertainment 538food 536-7sights 530-4tourist information 539

tours 534travel to/from 539travel within 539

Liverpool 159Locarno 659-60Loch Lomond 170-1Loch Ness 172Loire Valley 215-19London 11, 109-39, 112,

114-15, 118-19, 122-3, 126

accommodation 125-8drinking & nightlife 131-4entertainment 134-6festivals & events 124-5food 128-31shopping 136-9sights 112-24tourist information 137tours 124travel to/from 137travel within 138-9

Londonderry 415-16London Eye 117Lorraine 214-5Loutro 370Louvre Museum 185-8Lübeck 328-9Lucca 473-4Lucerne 649-51Lugano 660-1Luso 552Luxembourg 18, 99-103, 74Luxembourg City 99-103,

100Lyon 221-6, 222

MMaastricht 523-7Mackintosh, Charles

Rennie 171Madame Tussauds 113Madrid 565-79, 570-1,

574-5accommodation 569drinking & nightlife 573-7entertainment 577festivals & events 568food 572-3safe travel 578shopping 577-9sights 565-8tourist information 578travel to/from 578travel within 578-9

Málaga 627-30Mallorca 612-14Manarola 444

markets, see also Christmas markets

Albert Cuypmarkt 505Beaune Food Market

220-1Broadway Market 131Camden Market 131Columbia Road Flower

Market 131El Rastro 577English Market 399Fischmark 321-2Mercado Central 609Mercat de la Boqueria

585Mercato di Ballarò 491Naschmarkt 47Old Spitalfields

Market 131Place du Châtelain

Market 83Place du Jeu-de-Balle

Flea Market 83Porta Portese Market

438Portobello Road Market

131Sarlat-La-Canéda

markets 228Sunday UpMarket 131

Marseille 237-40Matera 487Matisse, Henri 244-5Matterhorn 15, 646-7, 15measures 675Mechelen 84Meissen 280Melk 52Menorca 613Meteora 351-2Milan 446-50, 448Mithymna 376-7mobile phones 674-5Molyvos 376-7Monaco 250-1monasteries & convents

Certosa e Museo di San Martino 479

Convento de Cristo 549Couvent des Jacobins

234Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

530Stift Nonnberg 57

Monet, Claude 205money 22, 23, 670, 672-4Moni Arkadiou 368Mons 98-9Monte Carlo 250Monterosso 443-4

694

IND

EX M

Montreux 645Mont St-Michel 209-10Moselle Valley 103, 312-13motorcycle travel 680-1Mozart, Wolfgang

Amadeus 57Mt Etna 495Mt Olympus 351Mt Pilatus 650Mt Vesuvius 485Munich 16, 285-92, 286-7Murano 455Mürren 654Museo del Prado 568museums & galleries

Anne Frank Huis 503Ars Electronica Center

53Atelier Cézanne 241British Museum 121Capitoline Museums

422-3Casa das Histórias Paula

Rego 541Centre Pompidou 188-9Centre Pompidou-Metz

206Centro de Arte Moderna

(Lisbon) 531Centro de Arte Reina

Sofía 565Chester Beatty Library

389Citadelle de St-Tropez

249Cité de l’Espace 234Cité de l’Océan 232Crawford Municipal Art

Gallery 399Cutty Sark 121Deutsches

Auswandererhaus 329East Side Gallery 268, 14Fundació Joan Miró 592Galleria degli Uffizi 465Galleria dell’Accademia

468Galleria Doria Pamphilj

423Galleria Nazionale

dell’Umbria 477Gallerie dell’Accademia

4553Galway City Museum

405Gemäldegalerie 267

Goldenes Dachl Museum 63

Groeningemuseum 93Haus der Musik 43Historium 92Imperial War Museum

117In Flanders Fields 96Kaiserliche

Schatzkammer 39Kelvingrove Art Gallery &

Museum 166Kerry Bog Village

Museum 404Kilmainham Gaol 21, 389Kunsthaus Graz 54Kunsthistorisches

Museum 42La Cité du Vin 230Lentos 53Leopold Museum 42-3Louvre-Lens 206Madame Tussauds 113Maison Bonaparte 252Maison de la Magie 216MAS 87Mauritshuis 515Memorial Museum

Passchendaele 1917 97MIM 73Mons Memorial

Museum 98Mozarts Geburtshaus 57Mozart-Wohnhaus 57-8MSK 89MUMOK 42Museale Santa Maria

della Scala 475Musée d’Art Moderne,

d’Art Contemporain et d’Art Brut - LaM 206

Musée d’Art Moderne et d’Art Contemporain 244

Musée Départemental Breton 210

Musée des Augustins 233

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Bordeaux) 230

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Dijon) 219

Musée des Beaux-Arts (Lyon) 223

Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée 237

Musée d’Orsay 181Musée du

Cinquantenaire 76Musée du Louvre 185-8

Musée du Quai Branly 181

Musée Granet 240Musée Horta 76Musée Magritte 73Musée Masséna 245Musée Matisse 244-5Musée National Picasso

189Musée Océanographique

de Monaco 251Musée Rodin 184Musées Royaux des

Beaux-Arts 73Musei di Strada Nuova

442Museo Archeologico Na-

zionale (Naples) 479Museo Archeologico

Paolo Orsi 495Museo Arqueológico

Nacional 568Museo Civico (Siena)

475Museo Correale 487Museo de Bellas Artes

604Museo del Bargello 468Museo del Novecento

446Museo del Prado 565Museo e Galleria Borgh-

ese 432Museo Egizio 445Museo Goya Colección

Ibercaja 601Museo Guggenheim

Bilbao 604Museo Nazionale della

Scienza e della Tecnologia 447

Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile 445

Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia 432

Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 428

Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza 565

Museu Calouste Gulbenkian 530-1

Museu Colecção Berardo 530

Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães 541

Museu d’Història de Barcelona 588

Museu do Fado 530Museu dos Biscainhos

560

Museu Municipal de Arqueologia (Silves) 545

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC) 591-2

Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga 531

Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro 550

Museu Nacional do Azulejo 531

Museu Nacional Soares dos Reis 554

Museu Picasso 588Museum Boijmans van

Beuningen 518Museum der Moderne

(Salzburg) 58Museum het Rem-

brandthuis 506-7Museum of Islamic

Art 342MuseumsQuartier 42National Craft Gallery

(Kilkenny) 397National Gallery (Dublin)

389National Gallery

(London) 113National Maritime

Museum 121National Museum of

Ireland 389National Museum of

Scotland 161-2National Portrait Gallery

(London) 113Natural History Museum

117Neue Galerie Graz 54Neues Museum 265Núcleo Islâmico 543Palais des Beaux Arts

206Palais du Tau 212Palazzo Barberini 424-5Palazzo Ducale 452Palazzo Pitti 4698Pala-

zzo Reale di Capodimonte 480

Palazzo Vecchio 465Pavilhão do

Conhecimento 531Peggy Guggenheim

Collection 453Pergamonmuseum

264-5Pinacoteca di Brera

446-7Rijksmuseum 505


695IN

DEX M

-RRiverside Museum 166Rubenshuis 86-7Salzburg Museum 57Science Museum 117Secession 43Stedelijk Museum 505Tate Britain 112Tate Modern 116Titanic Belfast 410Topographie des Terrors

267-8Tower Museum 415Ulster Museum 410Van Gogh Museum 505Vatican Museums 428,

429Vermeer Centrum Delft

516Victoria & Albert

Museum 117Zentrum Paul Klee 648-9

music 27Mycenae 349Mykonos 355-8, 356Mystras 349

NNafplio 348-9Naples 479-84, 480national parks & reserves

Austrian Alps 67Connemara National

Park 408Hohe Tauern National

Park 67Hoge Veluwe National

Park 522Killarney National Park

402Lake District National

Park 157-8Loch Lomond & the

Trossachs National Park 170

Parc National des Calanques 239

Parnassos National Park 350

Parque Nacional de Doñana 630

Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa 607

Parque Nacional de Ordesa y Monte Perdido 602

Parque Nacional de Peneda-Gerês 560-1

Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre 443

Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês 560-1

Parque Natural da Ria Formosa 542

Parque Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas 630

Snowdonia National Park 160

Swiss National Park 660Navarra 600-6Naxos 358-60Nazaré 549Netherlands, The 502-27,

504accommodation 525climate 502costs 526cycling 20, 517drinking & nightlife 526food 526highlights 504itineraries 503travel to/from 526travel within 527

Nice 243-8, 244nightlife 26, see also

individual locationsNîmes 236-7Normandy 208-10North London 120Northern Ireland 409-16Notting Hill Carnival

(London) 30, 125Nuremberg 298-300

OObertraun 62Óbidos 548-9Oia 360Oktoberfest (Munich) 15,

31, 289Olympia 349-50Orvieto 476Ostia Antica 439Oxford 145-8Oyster Card (London) 139

PPadua 454palaces, see castles,

fortresses & palacesPaleohora 370Palermo 490-2Palma de Mallorca 612-14Pamplona 605Paris 181-204, 202, 186,

190, 194accommodation 192-5,

200-1drinking & nightlife

199-200

food 196-9museums 184shopping 201-2sights 181-9tours 189-92travel to/from 202-3travel within 203-4

parks & gardensEuropapark 56Giardini di Augusto 486Hyde Park 117Jardim do Palácio de

Cristal 553Jardin des Tuileries 188Jardin du Luxembourg

184Keukenhof 514Kew Gardens 121, 124Parc de la Ciutadella 589Park Güell 591Parque del Buen Retiro

568Regent’s Park 120Royal Gardens of

Herrenhausen 330Villa Borghese 431-2Villa Comunale

(Taormina) 493Vondelpark 505

Parque das Nações 531-4Parque Nacional da

Peneda-Gerês 560-1Paxi 380Peloponnese, The 348-50Pembrokeshire 159Peniche 547-8Perugia 477-9Phaestos 367Picasso, Pablo 189Piccadilly Circus 113Pisa 472-3planning

budgeting 22-3calendar of events 28-31internet resources 23itineraries 32-6, 32, 33,

35, 36travel seasons 22, 28Western Europe basics

22-3Pompeii 485Pont du Gard 237Portmagee 404Porto 553-9, 554Portugal 528-63, 529

accommodation 528, 561-2

business hours 562climate 528costs 561

food 528, 556highlights 529money 562public holidays 562telephone services 562travel to/from 562travel within 562-3

Positano 488-9Potter, Beatrix 158Provence 237-43punting

Cambridge 152-3Oxford 146

Pythagorio 374

QQuadrilatero d’Oro 450Quimper 210

Rrail passes 682-3Randstad 512-23Ravello 489Ravenna 463Red Light District

(Amsterdam) 510Regensburg 301-2Reichstag 261Reims 211-13Rethymno 368Rhine Valley 19, 310-12Rhodes 369-72Rhône Valley 219-26Rijksmuseum 505Ring of Kerry 403-5Ring of Skellig 404Rock of Cashel 399Rodin, Auguste 184Roman Forum 422, 12Romantic Road 294-8Rome 12, 422-40, 432-3,

424, 426, 430, 434drinking & nightlife 437entertainment 438food 433-7safe travel 438shopping 438sights 422-32tourist information 439travel to/from 439-40travel within 440

Rothenburg ob der Tauber 296-7

Rotterdam 518-22, 520Royal Albert Hall 135, 11ruins, see archaeological

sitesRunning of the Bulls

(Pamplona) 605

696

IND

EX S- Z

Ssafe travel 674Sagres 545-6Salamanca 579-82Saldanha 530Salisbury 141-2Salzburg 56-61, 58Salzkammergut 61-2Samaria Gorge 368Samos 374-5San Gimignano 475San Sebastián 602-4Santa Apolónia 531Santiago de Compostela

606-8Santillana del Mar 606Santorini 17, 360-3, 361, 17Sappho 375Sarlat-La-Canéda 228-30scams 674Schengen Agreement 675Schilthorn 654Schladming 64Schloss Belvedere 43Schloss Neuschwanstein

295Schloss Sanssouci 274Schloss Schönbrunn 43Scotland 161-74Segovia 582-4senior travellers 670Seville 616-20, 617Shard 117Sicily 489-96Siena 474-6Silves 544-5Sintra 540-1Skellig Michael 403Skiathos 377-8skiing 670

Chamonix 227Italy 498Jungfrau region 652Kitzbühel 66Lienz 66Spain 632St Anton am Arlberg 68St Moritz 681Zermatt 646

Slieve League 409Sligo 409smoking 674Sneem 404snowboarding 670Snowdonia National Park

160-1

Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) 160-1soccer, see footballSomme 206Sorrento 486-7Sougia 370Spain 564-637, 566-7

accommodation 631-2activities 632climate 564costs 632drinking 634food 634highlights 566-7itineraries 565money 633travel to/from 634-5travel within 635-6

Spanish Steps 425Sporades 377-8St Goar 311St Goarshausen 311St Moritz 661-5St-Malo 210-11St-Tropez 249-50Stonehenge 142Strasbourg 214-15Stratford-upon-Avon

148-51Stuttgart 302-4Styrian Tuscany 55surfing 670

Biarritz 232Munich 289Óbidos 548Peniche 548Sagres 545Spain 632

Switzerland 638, 639accommodation 662climate 638costs 663, 664highlights 639itineraries 640train travel 647travel to/from 663-4travel within 664-5

synagoguesNeue Synagoge (Berlin)

267Sinagoga del Tránsito

584Syracuse 493-5

TTaormina 493Tarragona 598-600Tate Britain 112Tavira 543-4taxes 673taxis 681

telephone services 674-5, see also individual

theft 674Thessaloniki 352-5, 353Ticino 659-61time zones 22, 675Tivoli 439Toledo 584-5Tomar 549-50Torcello 455Toulouse 233-5tourist information 675,

see also individual locations

tours 681, see also individual locations

Game of Throne tours 414

Tower Bridge 113Tower of London 113Trafalgar Square 113train travel 681-3, 676Trastevere 429travel to/from Western

Europe 676travel within Western

Europe 676-83trekking, see hikingTrevi Fountain 424Triberg 306Trier 313-15Trieste 461Trinity College 151-2Trossachs 170-1Turin 444-6Tuscany 14, 464-79, 14Tyrol 62-7

UUnited Kingdom, see BritainUmbria 464-79Utrecht 522-3

Vvaccinations 671Valais 646-8Valencia 608-11van Gogh, Vincent 242, 505Vathy 374Vatican City 425-8, 429Venice 13, 452-61, 453,

455, 13accommodation 457-8activities 457-8drinking & nightlife

460-1entertainment 460food 458-9sights 453tourist information 461

travel to/from 461travel within 461-2

Vernazza 444Verona 452-3Versailles 204-5Vézère Valley 229Via Appia Antica 438Viana do Castelo 559Vianden 103Victoria & Albert

Museum 117Vienna 13, 39-51, 44

accommodation 46-7activities 43drinking & nightlife 49entertainment 49-50food 47-8shopping 50sights 39-43tourist information 51travel within 51

Vikos Gorge 354Vila Nova da Gaia 557visas 22, 675, see also

individual countriesVorarlberg 68

WWales 158-61walking, see hikingWallonia 98-9Waterloo 85weather 22, 28-31websites, see internet

resourcesweights 675Weimar 282-4Wengen 653Westminster Abbey 112Windermere 157-8Windsor Castle 139-40windsurfing 545, 632, 670wine 25Würzburg 297-305

YYork 153-5Ypres 96-8

ZZaanse Schans 513Zagorohoria 354Zaragoza 600-2Zell am see 64Zermatt 646-9Zillertal 64zoos 120Zürich 654-7, 655


697N

OTES

698

NO

TES

699N

OTES

700

NO

TES

701

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend


702

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

Donna WheelerAustria Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for ten years, includ-ing the Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Melbourne titles. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops and is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna’s work on contemporary art, architecture and design, food, wine, wilderness areas and cultural history

also can be found in a variety of other publications. She became a travel writer after various careers as a commissioning editor, creative director, digital producer and content strategist.

Neil Wilson Britain & Ireland Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder,

fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley.

Karla ZimmermanThe Netherlands Karla lives in Chicago, where she eat doughnuts, yells at the Cubs, and writes stuff for books, magazines, and websites when she’s not doing the first two things. She has contributed to 40-plus guidebooks and travel anthologies covering destinations in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America, and the Caribbean – all of which are a long way from the early

days, when she wrote about gravel for a construction magazine and got to trek to places like Fredonia, Kansas. To learn more, follow her on Instagram and Twitter (@karlazimmerman).

Contributing Writers & ResearchersKate Armstrong (Portugal)Jean-Bernard Carrillet (France)Kerry Christiani (France)Fionn Davenport (Britain & Ireland)Belinda Dixon (Britain)Peter Dragicevich (Britain)Damian Harper (Britain & Ireland)Anita Isalska (France) Anja Mutić (Portugal)Hugh McNaughtan (Britain & France)Isabella Noble (Britain)Christopher Pitts (France)Daniel Robinson (France)Regis St Louis (Portugal & France)Ryan Ver Berkmoes (Ireland)Nicola Williams (France)


703BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

Catherine Le NevezAustria, Britain, France, Ireland & The Netherlands Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgrad qualifications in

Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations.

Korina MillerGreece Korina first ventured to Greece as a backpacking teenager, sleeping on ferry decks and hiking in the mountains. Since then, she’s found herself drawn back to soak up the timelessness of the old towns and drink coffee with locals in seaside kafeneio. Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living

in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies and an MA in Migration Studies en route. Korina has written nearly 40 titles for Lonely Planet and also works as a children’s writing coach.

John NobleSpain John has been travelling since his teens and doing so as a Lonely Planet writer since the 1980s. The number of LP titles he’s written or co-writ-ten is well into three figures, covering a somewhat random selection of countries scattered across the globe, predominantly ones where Spanish, Russian or English are spoken (usually alongside numerous local languages).

He still gets as excited as ever about heading out on the road to unfamiliar experiences, people and destinations, especially remote, off-the-beaten-track ones. Above all, he loves mountains, from the English Lake District to the Himalaya. See his pics on Instagram: @johnnoble11.

Josephine QuinteroSpain Josephine first got her taste of not-so-serious travel when she slung a guitar on her back and travelled in Europe in the early 70s. She eventually reached Greece and caught a ferry to Israel where she embraced kibbutz life and the Mexican-American she was to subsequently wed. Josephine primarily covers Spain and Italy for Lonely Planet.

Andrea Schulte-PeeversGermany Born and raised in Germany and educated in London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the distance to the moon and back in her visits to some 75 countries. She has earned her living as a professional travel writer for over two decades and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lone-ly Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines and websites around

the world. She also works as a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin.

Andy Symington Belgium & Luxembourg, Britain & Portugal Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Eu-rope and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines, and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and

is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415313th edition – October 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 147 2© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSOliver BerryBritain & France Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guard-ian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award.

His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com.

Gregor ClarkFrance, Switzerland & Liechtenstein Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Marc Di DucaBritain, Germany & Portugal A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Duncan GarwoodItaly From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he large-ly dedicates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland where he’s been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Romani hills outside Rome, he’s clocked up endless kilometres exploring the country’s well-known destinations and far-flung reaches, working on guides to Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont, and Naples &

the Amalfi Coast. Other LP titles include Italy’s Best Trips, the Food Lover’s Guide to the World, and Pocket Bilbao & San Sebastian. He also writes on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines.

OVERPAGE

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