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BIG AL’S AQUARIUM SERVICES WAREHOUSE OUTLETS

140 CENTENNIAL PARKWAY N. HAMILTON L8E 1H9 905-560-1000 www.aquariumservices.com hamilton@aquariumservices.com

RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT FOR A MINIMUM-MAINTENANCE FRESHWATER AQUARIUM To simplify selection of compatible species of freshwater fish and the appropriated equipment, the tanks in our Fishroom are colour coded into the following categories, on a traffic light system: If you are unsure of your selections please ask for help. RED DOT - Stop and beware – non-community freshwater tropical fish which are aggressive and will not mix easily with other fish. YELLOW DOT -Proceed with caution – slightly aggressive freshwater tropical fish which may not be compatible with others in the tank. GREEN DOT -Community fish – freshwater tropical fish which can be mixed with other community fish (except for goldfish which must only be mixed with other goldfish). Fish with a BLUE dot are marine fish which require saltwater and different equipment than outlined herein. 1) THE AQUARIUM * Many different shapes and sizes

* Best size is 20 gallons or larger — more easily maintained; less subject to rapid temperature and PH changes; holds more fish; provides larger viewing area.

2) THE STAND * Many different varieties i.e. wooden, tubular steel, glass.

* Make sure stand is levelled, and if it is not manufactured by an aquarium stand maker, make sure that there are no high points or twists. A good safety precaution is to place a sheet of ½” Styrofoam between the tank and stand, especially on larger aquariums.

3) CANOPY AND LIGHTING

* Must have a canopy or glass top to prevent fish from jumping out and to reduce water evaporation.

* Artificial light is needed to display fish and to grow natural plants. * Two types of light - fluorescent and incandescent. Fluorescent light is necessary for growing natural plants; in enhances the colour of the fish, generates less heat and uses less electricity and so although the initial cost is higher it is the better light.

4) UNDER GRAVEL FILTER

* Increases the biological action in the aquarium. The tubes pull down the dirt and pump out air. The filter operates in a circular motion - dirt and water are pulled into the gravel, and air and water are pushed out of the tubes. The gravel bed becomes the main filter, with the trapped bacteria consuming harmful ammonias.

* This is an inexpensive, effective filter which keeps the water fresh and the fish healthy.

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5) VIBRATOR AIR PUMPS * Powers under gravel filter, bubble walls, ornaments, etc. * Smaller pumps may be noisier.

* Airline tubing and valves control and distribute air flow. A check valve is a good addition to prevent water siphoning, down into the pump, during any electrical outages. When purchasing a air pump consider purchasing a good Gang Valve and use one outlet as an extra air release to remove any excess air pressure. Otherwise your pump will create too much back pressure and may need to be repaired within a few months.

6) POWER FILTER AND CANISTER FILTERS

* Removes floating debris, provides extra aeration also provides biological and carbon filtration to keep aquarium water sparkling clear.

* Some types hang on the back of the tank and are cheaper and easily serviced. *Others are hidden under the tank and require less maintenance and are more versatile, also providing better quality filtration.

7) HEATER

* Must deliver 3-5 watts per gallon (50 gallon tank needs 150-250 watt heater depending on the room environment).

* Keep temperature at 77oF for most tropical fish. * Submersible and hang-on varieties available. Note: A heater is not necessary for goldfish or guppies. Note: Always let a heater sit in the water for 20-30 minutes before plugging into an electrical outlet, otherwise you may break the glass tube due to rapid temperature change. 8) GRAVEL

* Must have enough to cover the under gravel filter to a depth of 1 ½". (Approximately 1½lbs per gallon). * Tanks without an under gravel filter will only required 1lb per gallon unless you wish to landscape a little deeper. * Two types, natural and coloured. Do not use white gravel for most tropical fish, and NEVER use beach sand.

9) OTHER EQUIPMENT * Algae scrubber, * gravel cleaner, * test kits * Poly mat for plants, * water conditioner, * fish net, * Thermometer * plant food * Foods- buy a few types to give the fish some variety * Decorations e.g. rock, driftwood, aerating ornaments, plants, bubble walls, coated corals etc. **DO NOT USE** NATURAL CORAL; SHELLS; OR METAL OBJECTS. 10) GOOD BOOK-This will provide you with invaluable information.

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SETTING UP THE SIMPLE FRESHWATER AQUARIUM

Assuming that you have the recommended equipment for a minimum-maintenance freshwater aquarium, the following are some basic rules and tips for setting-up.

1) Rinse aquarium thoroughly, clean with vinegar and water if necessary, but NOT soap or detergents, etc.

2) Place the aquarium on a sturdy, LEVEL stand, in your chosen location, but NOT in direct sunlight (or an algae and heat problem will result). In some cases you should place a half inch sheet of Styrofoam between the tank and the stand. Especially on metal stands since all floors are not necessarily level.

3) Set up the under gravel filter in the bottom of your aquarium, as per the manufacturer’s directions.

If you are planning to grow natural plants, lay a poly mat on top of the filter Plates. Hook-up your airline, valves and vibrator pump..

4) Rinse the gravel thoroughly and put it on top of the under gravel filter plates, to a depth of 1½ -2inches or more, and sloping up to the back of the aquarium

5) Add water, and watch for possible leaks. Stop filling when the water is 3 ins. from the top. (Allowing the water to pour onto a plate minimizes disturbance of the gravel).

6) Landscape the tank with any rocks, plastic plants (wait 2-4 weeks before adding real plants so that the fish can generate fertilizer) and other decorations or bubble wands which you have selected.

7) Add additional water to a level just level with the bottom of the trim (if higher, some water might siphon under the trim and cause water to leak out).

8) Hook up the power filter as per the manufacturer’s directions, rinsing the inserts with water.

9) Place the heater in the tank as per manufacturer’s direction and wait 20-30 minutes before plugging it in. Make small adjustments to bring the temperature in around 77 F.(25C)

10) Place the aquarium thermometer in the water (stick-on type goes on the outside of the glass, halfway down and away from the heater).

11) Set up the aquarium hood, cutting the plastic insert, where necessary, to fit around filters, heaters, etc. Insert bulbs and plug in.

12) Add Big Al’s water conditioner to remove harmful chlorine and chloramines, and to protect the

fish as per directions. Five minutes later add Big Al’s Bio Support or Stress Zyme to start the biological cycle. Note: Remember to double dose your water conditioner during the summer months or any other times that chloramines are added to our tap water.

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ADDING NEW FISH, HOW MANY/HOW SOON?

1) It is IMPORTANT to let us know if this is your first time setting up an aquarium, or if the tank has been restarted after some time. If you are unsure of which fish are compatible or best to start with, please ask our staff.

2) Let the equipment operate for 3-5 days to see that it is working properly, and to let the water age. The small bubbles that form on the glass and equipment should be gone before the fish go in. Make sure the heater is running steady at approximately 77F for Tropical fish.

3) First fish introductions should be no more than one (1) fish for every five gallons of water (eg. platy, sword, and molly sized fish). This avoids tank conditions from going to extreme levels of ammonia and nitrite in short periods of time. High levels of ammonia and nitrite will suffocate your fish. At this level of stocking, weekly water changes will be more effective on controlling these problems should they occur.

4) With this light load of fish there should be little need to clean or service a newly set up filter until the biological cycle is complete.(not sooner than 36-38 days) We do not want to rinse out the biological bacteria that we are trying to develop in the filter.

5) A fully operational tank (biologically speaking) will take 36-38 days to “setup” and only then can it accommodate approximately one inch of fish gallon.

6) With the lights off, float the bags containing new fish in the tank for 20 minutes to equate the two water temperatures. Open the bag and add some of your aquarium water. Wait another few minutes and repeat. After two small “drinks” the fish are ready to go into the tank. Pour the new fish in gently and discard any remaining water in the bag.

7) Netting and bagging fish will cause stress. In order to reduce stress turn the aquarium lights off for the remainder of the day. The addition of Big Al’s Water Conditioner will help reduce this stress.

8) Do not feed your new fish for the first 24 hours. In most cases they will not eat. Uneaten food will cause pollution problems.

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RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE FOR THE FRESHWATER AQUARIUM

Assuming that you have the recommended equipment for a minimum-maintenance freshwater aquarium, maintenance should only take approximately 20 minutes once a week, plus normal feedings. Recommended maintenance is as follows; 1) Daily feeding of fish

* In a newly set up aquarium keep your feedings light. Once or twice a day and only what the fish will consume in a minute or so. If there is any excess food remove it with a net. * Food falling to the bottom or being sucked up the filter will pollute you tank causing water cloudiness and may elevate ammonia/nitrite levels. 2) Turn on the lights for 8-10 hours, maximum, each day for viewing. Longer light may cause excessive algae growth, less light only retards plant growth and causes no harm to fish.

3) Partial water change to remove ammonias.

* Using a Big Al’s Gravel Cleaner or “Python” clean the gravel removing 1/3 of the water and add tap water at the same temperature. Use Big Al’s Water Conditioner to remove harmful contaminates such as chlorine & chloramines. You should use double doses of Big Al’s Bio Support or Stress zyme for the first four water changes to increase biological activity.

4) Clean power filter sponge monthly or if flow slows. Use water taken from the aquarium into your water change bucket and rinse sponge out in this. Replace your carbon cartridge once a month to keep water crystal clear and smelling fresh. Replace the sponge filter every three months to keep the proper flow going through it.

5) Wipe algae off glass weekly, and clean the front of the glass.

6) Check fish daily for anything abnormal. Such as white spots or anything else that shouldn’t be there. If you notice anything please discuss with our staff which medication should be used. Try not to leave it too long because it could make the rest of the fish sick as well.

NOTE; NEVER “TOP UP” A TANK, POLLUTANTS DO NOT EVAPORATE ONLY THE WATER DOES.

THESE SMALL WEEKLY & MONTHLY MAINTENANCE TIPS KEEP FISH HEALTHY AND

AVOIDS A COMPLETE TEAR DOWN, WHICH CAN BE A MAJOR JOB.

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