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__________________________________________________________________________________ SAVE OUR LANDSCAPES Report No. 1 BONNINGTON: AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL APPRAISAL By Ed Archer December 2011

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Page 1: BONNINGTON: AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL APPRAISAL … · in the Calendar of Documents covering the Scottish Wars of Independence 1296-1314 p. 423, the report of James de Dalileye,

__________________________________________________________________________________

SAVE OUR LANDSCAPES

Report No. 1

BONNINGTON:

AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL AND HISTORICAL

APPRAISAL

By

Ed Archer

December 2011

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Bonnington: an Archaeological and Historical Appraisal

Introduction

This paper has been prepared to provide members of the public and policy–makers with an

overview of the history of the Bonnington area, which is part of the Buffer Zone of the New

Lanark UNESCO World Heritage Site, and which was included in Historic Scotland’s Inventory of Designated Landscapes in 2007. The area is currently threatened by Cemex’s plans to extend Hyndford Quarry into this area, thus destroying much of the landscape.

The paper takes us from the Prehistoric period, through Roman times to the Middle Ages

when the area formed part of the Royal Forest of Lanark, a favourite hunting ground for the

Kings of Scotland from the time of William the Lion. In the Middle Ages the first houses are

recorded, but the real high spot of the estate’s history did not come till the Eighteenth

Century. It was at this period that a designed landscape was developed by Sir James

Carmichael with the House of Mirrors above Corra Linn being its most well known legacy.

The Bonnington estate became associated with ’picturesque’ tourism, attracting poets and

writers such as Wordsworth and Scott and artists such as Turner. Lady Mary Ross is

associated with developing the work started by Sir James Carmichael at the beginning of the

eighteenth century. Lady Mary blended the natural and designed landscapes with the

development of paths, rides, view points and plantings. The distinctive landscape survived

the demolition of the last Bonnington House along with some of the trees and beech lined

pathways.

The proposals for quarrying within the World Heritage Buffer Zone near Robiesland Farm

raise a number of issues of an Archaeological and Historical nature. These are now outlined

in detail below.

Prehistoric

Mesolithic 6500 B.C – 4000 B.C.

There are strong indications that there are Prehistoric remains to be found in this area.

These go back possibly to the Mesolithic. The nearest Mesolithic evidence has been found

about twenty years ago across at the new Auction Market site; this took the form of a piece

of Arran pitchstone and several pieces of green chert. Such finds are common in the areas

adjacent to the Clyde (see Lacaille’s study on Prehistoric Scotland).The reason for this

assertion is that the Clyde was used by Mesolithic people to access the interior of Western

Scotland since much of Lowland Scotland was covered in thick forest .

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Neolithic 4000 B.C -2500 B.C

The only Neolithic remains appear to be several earthworks visible from the air in Google

Earth. The first in the area to the south east of the proposed development. This appears to

have disappeared due to quarrying. The West of Scotland Archaeological Service is aware

of the existence of earthworks and the possibility that they are so old though the exact age is

difficult to be 100 % clear about until excavation has taken place.

The picture on the left

shows the site of a

possible Neolithic

structure which is close

to the right hand edge of

the site and opposite the

two large trees. This is

typical of the earthworks

of this period and is of

the type found widely in

the Upper Ward of

Clydesdale. There are

indications that a similar

earthwork was lost

during recent quarrying

across the other side of

the Drove road.

It is suggested that

Resistivity work should

be undertaken in this

area to clarify matters. Note that Resistivity work is non intrusive archaeology done with what

can be best described as an archaeologist’s Zimmer frame, but in this case signals are

transmitted between rods stuck in the ground and the resistance is measured. Where a

trench has been dug, the resistance is less whereas if there is a wall there is plenty of

resistance and the readings appear dark.

An axe of the Neolithic era was found at Lanark Loch, the current location of this is unknown

at the present time.

Bronze Age 2500 B.C – 750 B.C.

On the nearby race course there is aerial photographic evidence of a small burial mound

typical of this era. Also a Bronze Age urn was found in the excavation of sand in the late

eighteenth century. This is mentioned in Prehistoric and Roman Lanarkshire – HMSO.

Iron Age 750 B.C. – A.D. 79

The only recorded evidence of this era is Hyndford Crannog which was excavated at the

end of the nineteenth century. A crannog is normally a lake dwelling but in the case of

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Hyndford Crannog, it was in marshy land. It lies not near the Clyde but in the grounds of

Hyndford House. The first era of occupation was possibly pre Roman. However most of the

associated finds are of a later date – see below.

Roman Era

The picture above is of a complete Samian ware bowl. This example was not found at the

site which was excavated at the end of the nineteenth century. This moulded pottery was

imported from the Roman Province of Gaul, modern day France. The Samian ware found at

Hyndford is contemporary to similar pottery found at Pompeii.

The pottery was brought to Scotland by the Roman Army to their camp at Castledykes,

Corbiehall Farm and traded with the local Iron Age inhabitants of Hyndford Crannog.

The story of the excavation is reported by J.Munro in volume 33 of the Proceedings of the

Society of Antiquaries, Scotland.

Mediaeval Period

It is possible that before Bonnington existed that it formed part of the estate belonging to the

Hindefords but as I suggest below it originally formed part of the Royal Forest of Lanark.

The first mention of the Hindefords occurs in a charter of Alexander III which refers to an

enquiry into the holding of Adam de Liberacione at Pettinain. Gamel of Hindeford is

mentioned by name in this document so presumably he had some dwelling in the vicinity as

yet undiscovered. This reference comes from Irving and Murray’s History of the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire published in 1867.

The indications would suggest that Bonnington was an integral part of the Forest of Lanark

that once belonged to the Kings of Scotland. King William the Lion (1165-1214) was the first

Scottish king to enjoy hunting in the forest making use of the local peregrine falcons of the

area to assist with hunting within the Forest of Lanark. This is referred to in Lanark Burgh

Records edited by Renwick.

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The Forest is referred to in papers of the Calendar of Documents Volume 5 page 153

relating both to John Balliol and Edward I. However by the reign of Robert the Bruce nothing

more is heard of the Forest . A probable reason for this is that the area of Bonnington was

already being farmed. From 1302-1304 there are records of James of Dalziel obtaining a

rent of 30 shillings from Over Bondyngton and 40 shillings a year for the farm of Nether

Bondyngton; these were in the hands of Nicholas de Banaghtyn at that time. This mentioned

in the Calendar of Documents covering the Scottish Wars of Independence 1296-1314 p.

423, the report of James de Dalileye, clerk to the English Treasury.

It is possible that prior to the Wars of Independence that William de Bondington (d.1258) had

been granted some of the lands of what is now called Bonnington by King Alexander III to

cut down oak trees for the work on Glasgow Cathedral. Certainly it is known that Bishop

Bondington played a key part in the construction of some of the work on the nave of

Glasgow Cathedral.

Certainly the bishops of Glasgow had a castle at nearby Carstairs at this time which was

later converted into a stone castle by Robert Wishart, friend of William Wallace. This castle

became more important than Lanark Castle. There is a link between Bonnington and

Bondington, which is confirmed by Robert II on January 1st 1382 granting the lands of

Bondington to Sir James Lindsay of Crawford. Moreover the very first reference to the lands

in 1304 refer to the lands as Bondyngton .

View looking in the direction of Tulliford from Robiesland

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It would be in the Middle Ages that a network of roads was developed to connect Lanark to

the outside world through a network of fords across the Clyde. This drove road runs along

the edge of the Bonnington estate down to the Clyde at Tulliford. This gave traders from

Douglas and beyond access to the market in Lanark. For many centuries this has been an

important right of way into Lanark; a right which was to be stoutly defended in the early

eighteenth century.

In the later Middle Ages Gilbert Cunningham of Boynton was called up for a case regarding

the lands at Warrenhill near Carmichael in 1476. The same Gilbert was also involved in a

jury which was summoned by James, Lord Hamilton. How these lands came into the

Cunninghams from the Lindsays is not clear. What is known from the testaments approved

by King James IV on January 20th 1511 that George Douglas successor to Archibald

Douglas was approved of as feudal superior of a number of properties and estates including

Bonnington . The information regarding the feudal superiority is referred to in the Calendar of

Documents relating to the reign of James IV (1488-1513).

Early Modern Era

The first really detailed references to the owners and the lands of Bonnington occur within

the Burgh records of Lanark which was published in 1893 by the Burgh Record Society. In

1552 there is a reference to Sir John Cunningham, chaplain of St Katherine’s Altar who in

the following year is described as being of Bonnington. At this stage the Cunninghams had

been in possession of the lands of Bonnington for almost a hundred years.

These lands were later transferred to the Bannatyne family as they are in possession or

rented by 1566 John Bannytyne relative of John Bannatyne of Corehouse had the lands of

Bonnington for a short time. Perhaps this might have had something to do with the political

unrest in the reign of Mary Queen of Scots. The lands were restored to Sir John

Cunningham by1568. Thereafter nothing more is heard of the Cunninghams till 1577. Then

Sir John Cunningham was elected Provost and he is mentioned again in 1588. There are

references to a John Cunningham in 1606 but it is unlikely to be the same John Cunningham

as previously mentioned and he is not referred to as being of Bonnington.

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Below is the Pont map of the Lanark area in 1596 which refers to Bonnington and shows

Cu i gha ’s house . It also shows the Lang Loch draining into the Clyde.

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This map was done by Johannes Blaeu, cartographer who worked in Amsterdam. It was based on

the Pont Map of 1596 and published worldwide in 1654. Bonnington is described as Bonstoun. A

tower house is shown at Bonnington surrounded by a park pale – an interesting landscape feature.

The Seventeenth Century

In the seventeenth century James Cunningham played an important part in the affairs of

State. He was on the war committee in 1644, 1646 and 1648-49, and was present at the

battle of Dunbar in 1650. He was involved in presiding over witch trials but as far as the

Lanark area was concerned nobody was burnt as a witch. Therefore it is unlikely that he was

fanatic in the pursuit of alleged witches.

Shortly after 1650 James Cunningham l sold the estate to James Carmichael, third son of Sir

William Carmichael. Obviously James Cunningham’s face did not fit in Charles II’s new Scotland probably as he was a keen supporter of the Commonwealth.

James Carmichael was appointed Commissioner of Excise in 1661. In 1678 Sir James held

the important position as Commissioner of Supply which he held till his death in 1680. His

son took over this role till he died in 1691 coupled with the role of Commissioner of the

Militia. The last role was of particular importance considering the threat from the Jacobites at

this time.

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The Age of Enlightenment

View of the Bonnington Estate wall alongside the Drove Road heading up to Robiesland

Bo i gto ’s Desig ed La dscape – The Pavilion and Gardens

The enclosure of the estate

The Eighteenth century was a particularly important period for the Bonnington estate It was the era of agricultural improvement and great economic development in Scotland. Much of this prosperity was linked to the act of Union in 1707 which gave Scotland to markets throughout the world. It is into this world that Sir James Carmichael makes his appearance (Minutes for the Justices of the Peace for Lanarkshire1707-1723) issued by the Scottish History Society in 1931. It was in the context of the increased prosperity of estates like Bonnington were greatly improved and their owners were exposed to the greater educational opportunities through links with England and the continent. This development was ignited in Lanarkshire by the Dukes of Hamilton who were responsible for the development of Scotland’s designed landscape. If it was not for the greed and the incompetence of the Hamiltons who trashed their inheritance, Lanarkshire would still have the finest eighteenth century designed landscape. They destroyed their estate through gambling and dissolute behaviour which ultimately bankrupted the estate and forced the Hamiltons to sell the coal under both Chatelherault and Hamilton Palace. However the survival of Chatelherault gives us an idea of the part of the magnificent design of Hamilton’s designed landscape. This is a good reason for the preservation of Bonnington because what is left should be preserved rather than suffer the fate of Chatelherault where sand and gravel extraction was allowed to within three hundred metres of the building and only stopped in the 1970s.

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It was in the context of what was happening at Hamilton that Sir James Carmichael would feel that it was necessary to improve his estate and the story of the enclosure of the estate marks an important move towards achieving his ambition of making the estate an object of beauty. On 23rd April 1717 there was a trial in Lanark of various locals from Sandilands, Ponfeigh and Lanark were accused of breaking down a wall which Sir James Carmichael had erected on the road from Tulliford to Lanark. This road was regularly used by traders particularly those bringing coal from the Douglas estates into Lanark. There was much sympathy for the defendants locally and the case was dismissed. Sir James reopened the road to Tulliford and he built a wall with Parliamentary permission to enclose his estate. Some of this wall survives in excellent condition as it was well constructed. To the best of my knowledge it is the only surviving wall built as a result of a Parliamentary Act which was enacted in 1717(referred to in Renwick’s Burgh Records of Lanark); this is a fascinating story of a victory for the people of Lanark and Douglas over the Carmichaels. It was important as there were no bridges over the Clyde to the south of Lanark, the only main bridge at this time was the Kirkfieldbank Bridge built in 1699 whose construction is referred to in some detail in Renwick’s Lanark Burgh Records. It was then vital trade link for the town of Lanark. Though not a trade route today, it is an important right of way which is frequently used by walkers.

A designed landscape

A section of the Roy map of Lowland Scotland showing Bonnington

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General Roy’s Great map of Scotland spanning the years 1747-1755 is an invaluable tool as

it shows in considerable detail the different estates in Scotland. The original map drawn by

Roy is in the British Library in London. However the National Library of Scotland issued a

book of Roy’s maps of Scotland in 2005. The map of Bonnington estate is no exception and

shows how the Carmichaels had a designed landscape close to the Bonnington Falls. The

emphasis of this type of designed landscape was on avenues of trees and parterres but not

an ornamental shrub garden. This idea was one that was popular on the continent and this

should come as no surprise given the connection with the kings of Prussia in the time of

John, third earl of Carmichael (referred to in Volume II of Irving and Murray’s History of Lanarkshire ). At the nearby Carmichael estate itself German trees were imported to

embellish that estate and the descendants of these trees are still to be seen at Carmichael to

this day.

A survey undertaken by Thomas Johnston records the following – stables close to the house

and a nearby garden or orchard divided into four sections by pathways and marked on three

corners by pavilions. Some way off to the east, a group of houses are indicated as a village

of Bonnington. To the southwest of the house, a large area of forest has been laid out with

tree lined allėes, for hunting. One of these, which aligned with the house, has a formal

rounded end on the plan. Some of this information relates to the picture above from Roy’s map of the estate.

The pavilion

The only easily identifiable feature of the designed landscape is the pavilion built by Sir James Carmichael in 1708 for the entertainment of visitors to the Falls. The pavilion had mirrors installed which gave a reflected view of Corra Linn and the Bonnington Estate. This is shown in the distance in the print below.

View of Corra Castle with the pavilion in the background by Paul Sandby 1778

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The pavilion had two floors; the upper floor for experiencing the falls whilst the lower floor was used for the preparation of refreshments for the visitors. The illusion created by the mirrors was that the visitors would feel that they were standing beneath the falls. However this is disputed by the account given in Davidson’s history of Lanark (1828) which states that the lower floor was used for viewing the falls as well as the first floor. Joseph Swan describes the experience that could be obtained from visiting the pavilion in his book – Swan’s Picturesque Views of the River Clyde published in 1830. In it he states the following; ‘A beautiful though more distant view of this extraordinary scene, may be had from the window of a pavilion, erected by Sir James Carmichael of Bonnington, placed far above, on the very summit of a sloping bank which rises from the perpendicular rocks, can contemplate the whole freed from those feelings of terror with which in nearer situations, he cannot fail to be visited. Indeed, the scene has here more of the effect of a picture, or a beautiful panoramic view; the trees through which it is seen adding their interest to the foreground, or forming as it were a framework at the sides. At the opposite end of the pavilion, a Mirror is placed, in which this rich landscape is reflected; and from its position, the spectator is almost led to believe that the cataract is tumbling on his head. Unfortunately, however, the illusion is not made so perfect as it might obviously be. The Mirror is neither of sufficient size, of a proper shape or sufficiently concealed in the wall. Were a little expense laid out on the pavilion, which appears as it was left by Sir John, a hundred and twenty years ago, the illusion might be exceedingly striking.’

A view of Corra Linn done in 1840 by Robert Scott

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There is some debate as to whether the Mirror was a later idea and several people have commented on this. Perhaps its original function was as a summer house which formed an integral part of the designed landscape. Also there seems to have several mirrors according to Davidson’s History of Lanark in 1828.

R.O. Forsyth in his work ‘The Beauties of Scotland’ printed in 1806 has this to say about the landscape around Bonnington: “Along the eastern side of the river a romantic road is formed, with fine woods on the one hand, and the river roaring below, in a deep chasm on the other.

This road reaches from the house of Bonninton, near Corra Linn, to the uppermost or

Bonninton Linn. Above the Bonninton or highest Lin the river exhibits a broad expanded and

placid appearance, beautifully environed with plantations of forest trees.

A view of Bonnington Falls by the Belgium Artist Pernot c.1820

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Visitors to the Falls

Throughout the late eighteenth century and into the early nineteenth century a procession of

famous visitors came to the falls; these included the artist J.M.W Turner, Sir Walter Scott,

Samuel Taylor Coleridge and his friend William Wordsworth.

The first recorded comments by a visitor to the falls come from Bishop Pococke during his

tour of Scotland in 1760. His observations are recorded in Notes by the Way written by

Archibald McMichael published in Ayr about 1890. Bishop Pococke, Bishop of Ossorry in

Ireland; he travelled extensively on the Continent and the Middle East, keeping extensive

notes about all the places he visited. In 1760 five years before he died, he wrote these words

about his impressions of the Falls of the Clyde: ”Coming towards Lord Dundas’s estate and

house called Bonningtoun, the south side appears in two hills – one like a tumulus, with a

rivulet to the west falling down in several sheets. The other is beautifully covered with wood,

on which the house stands, on the south side of the river. As one approaches, there seems

to be a third hill on the same side of the river, with a summer house on it; but as you come

nearer you are most agreeably surprised in seeing a most extraordinary cataract of the

whole river, and to find that this hill is on the north side of it,for here the river runs down the

rocks from the south and immediately turns to the west. The High rocks on each side are

most beautifully adorned with trees, this being the finest cascade I ever saw.”

In Neil Munro’s book on the Clyde, he refers to a visit by the poet Grey, famous for Grey’s Elegy . Grey states in 1764 that “the landscape of woods and rocks worthy of the hands of a Poussin.”

Samuel Taylor Coleridge was enamoured of what he saw. The following extract is taken

from Coleridge’s book ‘Among the lakes and mountains’, a book is based on the notes of his journeys between 1794 and 1804. “As I write this, I turn my head, and close by me I see a

birch , so placed as among a number of trees it alone is in full sunshine, and the shadows of

its leaves playing on its silver bark, an image that delighted my boyhood, when I had no

waterfalls to see. Moving higher and winding we climb up directly over the place where I first

sate, we see the whole fall, the higher, the lower and the interslope, with only a fragment of

the wall-rock and the pool- the whole at once, with the white conical rock, with a cloak of

mosses, and bushes and fir trees growing out of them, and the old round on top of all.”

Dorothy Wordsworth has this to say about Bonnington: ‘After William left us, had taken the

wrong road, and while looking about to set himself right, had met with a barefoot boy, who

said he would go with him. The little fellow carried him by a wild path to the upper of the

Falls, the Bonninton Linn, and coming down unexpectedly upon it, he was exceedingly

affected by the solemn grandeur of the place.’

John Duncan in his Itinerary of Scotland published in 1819 has the following to say “Corra Linn is seen to the best advantage from a pavilion erected by Sir James Carmichael of

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Bonninton, overlooking the fall. The scene is grand in the extreme. This mighty fall is

situated amidst the most magnificent natural scenery of lofty rocks covered with wood, and

from whatever spot you view it, it cannot fail to impress and delight the beholder.” He then

says: “No description is capable of conveying an adequate idea of the magnificent scene. To the Scotchman the effect of the whole will receive additional interest, from the

consideration, that the rocks and caves and woods around were formerly the forlorn hope of

national independence when they sheltered Sir William Wallace.”

In the Scottish Tourist published in 1827 the following comment is made “The stranger

having reached Lanark, and intending to visit the Falls of Clyde, proceeds to the pleasure

grounds of Bonnington House (Lady Mary Ross) near the Corra Linn. On reaching the lodge

he will find a romantic path, formed on the western side of the approach, overhung with

wood; and, as he advances, he will often look down into a profound chasm, through which

the troubled river pursues its furious course.”

W.Davidson in his history of Lanark in 1828 has an interesting comment to make on the

designed landscape of Bonnington.

“There cannot be a scene more romantic than this; so,every taste may be gratified. The soul

which delights in the dark and irregular sublimity of nature may here roam at large; while

those who prefer the lawn, and smoothly expanded lake, and who seek for nature, only in

her holiday attire, will find themselves richly rewarded for their trouble, by visiting the

beautiful gardens, and avenues, around the house of Bonniton.”

A view of the Falls of Bonnington showing a corn drying kiln by Sir Alexander Naismith

1840

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In Lanarkshire in Prose and Verse edited by Hugh Quigley, there is a poem which includes a

description of the Bonnington Estate. This poem is written by the author of “Law Lyrics” in 1888. This is what he has to say in the first verse:

Bonnington Falls

“With one long draught of vision oft renewed,

His footsteps slow, reluctant to retreat, The pilgrim leaves this pinnacle, and turns With meditation full to find the path That winds up from the Lynn and sees with eye – Grown grateful now – the mansion of the man Whose generous mind is the donor of these views, Marks his ancestral beeches spreading wide Along his sheltered park in double line. Green flirting with the clouds.”

A view of Corra Linn from The Clyde by Neil Munro, painted by Mary Young Hunter

The House

Nothing is known of the house that the owners of the estate lived in during the Middle Ages

for not even the site has been recorded. The only evidence is from Pont which shows a

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tower house like structure; this would have been the type of building that one would expect

the Cunninghams to have lived in the late sixteenth century. It would have been something

similar to Hallbar Tower at Braidwood. Since the exact location of this building is not known,

it is possible that the projected quarrying might destroy all evidence of it.

This building would have been replaced in the seventeenth century possibly at the time that

the Carmichaels took over the estate. This house has been shown on early estate maps as a

single room structure with a circular staircase at the rear; the closest parallel for this type of

house without a staircase is the 17th century house at Biggar which was brought from

Greenhill.

The 17th century house referred to above had probably a makeover, when the estate was

undergoing a complete refurbishment at the time of Sir James Carmichael. This logically

would tie in with the construction of the pavilion and the creation of the first designed

landscape. Further improvements are known to have been made when the designed

landscape when estate passed to Admiral Sir John Lockhart-Ross through his marriage with

Lady Ross Baillie in 1757. However the house remained unaltered according to an estate

map of the estate produced in 1780 and referred to in Joe Rock’s research paper on the Bonnington Estate.

Admiral Sir John Lockhart –Ross was known

to have been a notable estate improver,

particularly at another of his estates,

Balnagowan, which he inherited in 1754, and

he is credited with the construction of

Bonnington House. It is thought very likely

that this work was undertaken in the years

1760/1761, when he had resigned from the

navy to concentrate on his estates. He

became renowned as “the best farmer and greatest planter in the country; his wheat and

turnips showed the one, his plantation of a

million pines the other. “ This information

comes from the edition of the National

Biography for 1895.

For the reasons stated above it is likely that

he also developed the farm, in particular the

farmhouse, the stable and the bothy.

The portrait of Sir John Lockhart Ross is by Reynolds dates to c.1760

Sir John died in 1790, though the estate did not pass to his son immediately as Lady Ross

Baillie is recorded as the owner on Forrest's map of 1816. She died in 1817 and, from that

time her son, Sir Charles Ross-Lockhart his wife Lady Mary took a keen interest in the

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development of the estate and implemented many improvements during the period of her

involvement with the affairs of the estate. This included the development of paths, rides,

view points and buildings and well as planting. The threshing barn and horse mill may date

from this period.

Engraving by Robert Scott c.1795 of Bonnington House

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Bonnington House c.1900 with its Gillespie Graham Porch

It is interesting to compare the Scott print with the picture taken in the early 1900s, basically

not much had been altered apart from the addition of the porch and the balancing of the

features on the left and right of the main house to give it a degree of symmetry which had

been missing . The designed landscape is also roughly the same in both views. Parts of this

landscape survive to this day.

A view to the rear of Bonnington house

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Lady Mary Ross’s Improvements In the Second Statistical Account of Lanarkshire of 1842, Bonnington is referred to as an elegant modern mansion belonging to Lady Mary Ross and that it had been much improved by the addition of a handsome porch in front from a design of Mr Gillespie Graham. He had recently worked on remodelling Lee Castle which still survives to this day.

The New Statistical Account of Scotland also states that “The waterfalls. . . .[Bonnington,

Corra Linn and Stonebyres]. . . are the chief objects of attraction. The uppermost, called the

Bonnington [sic] Fall, is about two miles and a-half distant from Lanark. The way lies for the

most part through the beautiful grounds of Bonnington; and with a liberality worthy of

imitation, the Ross family, to whom the property belongs, allow free access on every day but

the Sabbath, and at all hours, to the public, who find tasteful walks kept in the highest order,

and seats at every fine point of view in their accommodation. The upper is perhaps the least

beautiful of the falls, owing to its smaller heights, and to the bareness of the southern bank

above it. Still, when seen from the point at which it first bursts upon the view, it is very

imposing; and the present proprietor, Lady Mary Ross, by means of a bridge thrown across

the north branch of the stream, immediately above the precipice, and points of observation

happily selected, has secured some charming coups d'oeil to the admirers of nature.”

After the death of Lady Mary Ross, the estate passed to the Lockhart Ross family who

tended to spend most of their time at Balnagowan. However the family did continue to take

an interest in the estate though the house was only occupied on a care and maintenance

basis by three staff.

W.A Cowan in his book the History of Lanark and Guide to the Surrounding Scenery printed in 1867 has this to say about Bonnington House. “ A good view can be had of Bonnington House . It is a plain, substantial erection.. The present proprietor is a lineal descendant of the Bailies of Lamington, to which family belonged the well known Marion Braidfoot, wife of Sir William Wallace. As might be expected some relics of the renowned patriot are to be seen in this house. These are an antique oaken cup, out of which the patriot drank; a large rude chair on which Sir William sat, it is something like ‘the settle’ seen in some old farm houses; and there is likewise an original portrait of the hero in a good state of preservation.” The cup and the chair referred to above are supposed to be in the possession of Mohammed Al Fahed who purchased the Balnagowan estate, which became the principal residence of Lockhart Ross family . These items were removed sometime prior to Bonnington House catching fire in 1914.

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Willia Wallace’s cup fro Bo i gto House decorated with silver fixtures added in the

seventeenth century

It was suggested locally that the Suffragettes were responsible, however this has not been

proved. There were plans to restore it to its former glory but that never came to fruition and

eventually the house was demolished. Photocopies of these plans are lodged with the Royal

Commission for Ancient Monuments Scotland at Bernard Terrace in Edinburgh.

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Views of Bonnington prior to demolition – November 1925

After the demolition the only parts left were the stables and the walled gardens. Of these the

stables survived into the 1980s. This story is told on the following page.

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Bonnington Stables

The photographs were taken in the early seventies at this time the stables survived but in a

ruinous state. They were demolished by the end of the end of the eighties; they were a

useful source of stone. Much of this stone is thought to have been used in the restoration of

New Lanark. This information was provided by a former resident.

The reason for using the stone for New Lanark would be that the stable block was contemporary with some parts of New Lanark, indeed it was probably made and designed by the same architects who worked down at New Lanark. This would mean that they were built either in the time of Lady Mary Lockhart Ross or Sir Charles Lockhart Ross. The latter being the more likely as the survey done by Thomas K. Johnson in June 1780 refers to stables being erected close to the house. This reference comes from the notes undertaken by Joe Rock. The photograph above on the left is of the inside of the stable block .This is different in that it is faced with good quality freestone which was in good condition being protected from the elements and was more expensive than the local purple stone used for the exterior of the building. Prior to demolition, it could have formed an interesting project for a competent architect to make what was left of the stables into an interesting dwelling house. But at that time the idea of converting and preserving was not in the forefront of people’s minds .

Conclusion

This paper has provided a history of the Bonnington area. Rich in history, it remains possible

to appreciate the essence of the Designed Landscape. An essential part of this landscape

was in the use of the distinctive natural features of the parkland – the fluvio – glacial mounds

that make the area so attractive to quarrying. The ancient Drove road and its unique

eighteenth century wall, erected by Parliamentary permission, would be lost too. But it would

be a tragedy if this valuable heritage is lost to support short – term commercial interests.

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A view of Bonnington Falls by John Knox c.1833

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Bibliography

Prehistoric Scotland – A.D. Lacaille, 1954 Prehistoric and Roman Lanarkshire, RCHAMS 1978 Report on the excavations at Hyndford Crannog – Proccedings of the Society of Antiquaries Scotland Volume 33 – p.p. 373 – 387 by J. Munro Calendar of Documents – Volume V ad 1108-1516 – Scottish Record Office edited by Grant Simpson Lanark Burgh Records (1150 -1722) – edited by Renwick published by the Scottish Record Society 1893 Minutes for the Justices of the Peace for Lanarkshire (1707-1723) issued by the Scottish History Society in 1931 R.O Forsyth The Beauties of Scotland pub (1806) The Scottish Tourist printed in Edinburgh for Stirling and Kenny (1827) Davidson’s History of Lanark (1828) Swan’s Picturesque Views of the Clyde (1830) Itinerary of Scotland published by John Duncan (1819) Notes by the way – A descriptive, Historical and Biographical Account of Lanarkshire published by Archibald C. McMichael c.1890 Dictionary of National Biography – J.K. Laughton 1895 The Clyde by Neil Munro, illustrations by Mary J. Hunter Young, published by Adam and Charles Black, London 1908 Lanarkshire in Prose and Verse – An Anthology by Hugh Quigley, published by Elkin Mathews and Marrot, Ltd. 1929 Coleridge among the Lakes and Mountains edited by Roger Hudson, pub. Folio 1991 National Library of Scotland – Roy’s Great Map of Scotland published by Birlinn Press, December 2005 Irving and Murray – History of the Upper Ward of Lanarkshire published by John Murray 1864

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SAVE OUR LANDSCAPES

Save Our Landscapes was formed in August 2011 by people living in and around Lanark to protect

and to promote the New Lanark World Heritage Site and its setting (Buffer Zone).

Briefing Notes and Reports are produced to contribute to informed debate and policy-making. We

welcome corrections and additional information. These should be sent to [email protected]

More details about SOL, including membership, can be found on our website.

www.saveourlandscapes.com