Book photo album

Clever key keeper

Oak tavern mirror

Wiggle-wonnpull toy

Fun-timetote box

\

try}

T1:I">",wom tutti ~Table Saw-e-Joi ' I '

Thickness piiiiiEJr--­Mortising Table· ,Spinale Shsper

The Ideal Woodworking System For the Craftsmen of the '90'sThe uCraftsmen of the '90's" (according to the experts)

will fall into one of three categories; Executives looking fora hobby that will relieve the stress associated with longhours at a desk, Artist/Entrpreneurs who will seek toprove that quality furniture and home accessories don'tnecessarily come from an assembly line (and that youreally can be your own boss), and Retirees who want tostay active while creating things of beauty for family andfriends (either for extra income or just for the fun of it).

The K-5 offers every woodworker (even the ones theexperts forgot] a perfect blend of precisian, capacity,space economy and reasonable price. Our engineershave avoided gimmicks like electronic readouts andbulky attachments in favor of dynamically balancrcutterheads and a simple, straightforward drive Syb­tern. Whether you're just starting out, or making achange in your shop, call now to find out why the K-5is the fastest growing system on the market today.

Dear Reader,

Don't get mad,get building

Back in the eighteenth century when writer Jonathan Swift popularizedthe saying, "Necessity is the mother of invention," he must have hadwoodworkers like you and me in mind. After all, aren't many of theprojects we make the solutions to some pressing need around the home?In this issue of WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS, we offerthree specialized storage projects that I know you'll like. They include a

book-like photo album, a distinctive key keeper, and a handsome oaktavern mirror. All share the same mother (Necessity), and, in the

case of the photo album, I have identified the father. His name?"Frustration." Let me explain.

A few months back, I took time to sort through two shoe boxes thatovert1owed with old but very dear family photographs. After organizingthe photographs, I drove to the local mall to buy a large album forthem. It was here that my frustration set in. In every store I visited Ifound albums--even the most expensive ones-made from vinyl-coveredcardboard. I thought of how much those old photographs meant to meand how inappropriate these materials seemed.

Then, it occurred to me to make my own album, one that showedclass, and was made from a material that was up to the task from thestandpoints of beauty and endurance. Of course, the material thatimmediately came to mind was wood.

By the time I reached home, I had decided on an album design thatresembled a great book, something that radiated an air of

reverence, like one of those glorious handwritten works madebefore Gutenberg's time.

The next day at the office, I sat down with ProjectsDesign Editor Jim Downing to hash out the details. Weopted for leather straps over metal hinges to stay in keepingwith the concept, and chose a large metal 3-ring bindermechanism that we removed from an inexpensive vinyl­covered binder. For lettering, we selected walnut laser-cut

letters, and devised a way to systematically kerf the sides of thealbum to make them look like neatly stacked book pages.

The Book of Memories album proves you really can make better thanyou can buy. The album sits in the center of our coffee table at homeand receives favorable comments from all those who see it. No vinyl­covered cardboard album would ever get the same response. Need awoodworker say more?

CHECK OUT THESE TIPS AND JIGS• Homemade doweling jig---page 7.• Protecting end comers while routing---page 8.• Using a temporary box spanner-page 10.• Glue blocks that temporarily hold box together while sawing---page 15.• Auxiliary tabletop for scrollsawing small pieces-page 19.

Note: To find the tips and jigs, look for tinted steps on the above pages.Jim Harrold

Managing Editor

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990 3

SEPT.• 1990 VOL 3, No.5, ISSUE 17

10 BOOK·OF·MEMORIESPHOTO ALBUM

Few items in your home have morevalue than yOUf family photographs.Why not keep them in a fittingcontainer like our leather and oakbook album?

14UNMISfAKABLEKEY KEEPER

Make this clever maple project,hang it in a central location withinthe home, and you have thepetfect place for family membersto store their collections of keys.

18 INTARSIASTILL LIFE

You'll find cutting, assembling, andpainting OUf cat intarsia as muchfun as standing back and admiringthe finished work.

6TASfEFUL OAKTAVERN MIRROR

When guests arrive, you may needto tame an unruly hair beforeopening the door. This handsomemirrored project lets you, whileoffering a handy place to hangcoats and hats.

4

WEEKENDWOODWORKING

24 WIGGLEWORM

Tug on this friendlycreature's cord and

watch his segmented body swayfrom side to side and his antennae

rise and fall like pistons.

28FUN-TIMETOTE BOX

Now your little artists can storetheir crayons, pencils, scissors, andother creative supplies in one neatlittle carrying box.

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

EOITORIAUARTSfAFF

EditorlArry CIa)'/O'lManaglns EditorJim lIamJId

Projects EditorCharles £. SommersProjects Deslgn EditorJames R. Do_i"gGraphic DesignerMkhoe/ G. Harting/onAdmlnlstrllll.e Assisl.anlLo"isL And~non

Project BuildersDon WifJPl!rman. Ron Hawboku

Editorial Di~torDoriJ £byPublisherWilliam R. RtedCirwlation OiroetorClem SevdeO,culation Mana~r

Alan Bl1lshProduction Senices Mana~rSlewtn JohTl!MEditorial Production Suptl'\'isorJoe HeuerFAitona! Research Ok«IO,C Ray DeaIOit

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS@ ~SSN '042~) ispOOlislled t*nonl!'lly ... January, MardI. May. July, Soptembef, andNoYerrW by IIIoet«Iilh C<Jrporation. 1716 Lol':u!II Stroot. Des Moinos,

lA 50336. Second·dau postage paid BI Des Moines. IOwB. SUB·SCRIPTION PRICES: On<:t year $.24.97 In 11'1<1 United State. llnlI ~spossessiornI. CanadB llnlI oIher alUIltrios It<ld $6 P/lf roar. POSTMAS­TER: Sond lHId,llSS changes to WEEKEND WOOOWOflKING PflOJ·ECTS@.P.D.Box 10815. Dos MoinBs. III 50336. Ta pIlaoe. cal lOll­t,ee l-aoo.s78·2006.@ COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION. 1990. ALL RIGHTSRESERVED. PRINTED IN U.S.A

WEClIIIIE!For service on your subscription, includingchange of address, please write to:WEEKEND WOODWORKINGPROJECTS Customer Service, P.O. Box10815, Des Moines, IA 50336-0815. Pleaseenclose your address label from a recentissue. If you wish to telephone, call tollfree 1-800-678-2666.

OUR PLEDGE TO YOUBefore publication, we build every projectin WEEKEND WOODWORKINGPROJECTS step-by-step in our shop.Then, a seasoned team of editors reviewsthe directions, iUustrations, and bill ofmaterials of each wood project to makesure the instructions we provide you areclear, concise, and complete.

Tht Sraffof Wffbnd Woodworking f>rt>#crS@

5

6

PUT ON A HAPPY FACEWITH OUR

OAKTAVERNMIRROR

In the not-too-distant past,tavern mirrors like the oneshown here were comrnon~

place in localtaverns acrossEurope and

America. Typi­cally, you would

find them locatednear the main entfywhere they were handyfor arriving and depart­ing customers. In thehome, our decorative de~

sign provides youwith a handy place

to hang your coat.

LEI'S START WITHTHE FRAME

1 To make the rails, rip andcrosscut one Shit-wide piece of % ~

stock (we used red oak) to 35" long.(See the Cutting Diagram on page8.) From it. rip one 2"-wide piecefor the top rail (A), and one 3~-wide

piece for the bottom rail (B). Next.layout the lh" radius on the outsidecomers of the bottom rail (see theexploded-view drawing opposite).Handsaw the comers to shape, andsand.

2 For the stiles (C), rip and cross­cut fOUf pieces of % It oak to 2 X 10".

3 Dry-assemble the frame. Alignand square the stiles and rails, usinga framing square and dimensions onthe exploded·view drawing. (Wealso measured diagonally from cor·ner to comer to check for square.)Next, with all frame parts squared,scribe marks on the edges of bothrails where they align with the stiles.Letter the joints for easy assembly.

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

7

I

I

o ,

o ,

3, 0 1

10' 0 4

35'

35'

31h" 0 2

lOY!" P 3

Cut W rabbet\II. deep in backside

(

frame after assentlIy.

'" """"""'"on from edge.

f. (f) © (f)

U ..'v... hole~· deep

STILE DETAIL

~ ¥.·plug~ V."long

('"\"--'#6X1V.

O F.H,Y·wood screws .".." shank

"""@ ...

"

PILOT·HOLE DETAIL

'" 2'

,,' 3'

,,' ~

,,' S'

,,' 3Y,'

'" ""

•

Po<

Coat'-

Continued

'Pieces m<lfked wilh an " are OJ! 10 fit theframe operings after assenilly, F"ease readthe instrucbons belore cuttI'lg.

MaterlaI codt:~ P-pt)woodSUppIles: 3-~' plate glass ITWrors OJ! 10 iii,'A" dowel, 10-16 x 114" flathead woodscrews, 2-mirfor hangers, # 17X~" wifebrads, 4-coat hooks, ornament, finish.

o """,b<ad<et

A top rail

C slile

F'_

B bonom<0'

, y,'

®Panel

/-,.<'......_R_'·lOW

V. • round-ovefon bottom edge.

rf.> ,'-seeM-_..-

®~, ,Bottom rail'" ) .....--__--------..,

Genter and glue Bill of Materials~ on ornament.

,,

..'

I

""""@

I/

11'

2' ®~ Bracket

l!Jr'--'"

"'-®1~' /

Y'" _''''long 01

~. hole countersunk -c;:::r-1It'"lfrom backside.

'I;"YeO pilot hole, ,

\It" deep ~ "

#6X1V•• F.H.f,..... .:::P ~~~~111wood screw 2•...--(

4 Make the doweling jig shown onpage 8 from scrap oak and plywood.(We used an actual end cut fromone of the stiles and glued it to theplywood for our jig's drilling block.If you already own a doweling jig,feel free to use it) If you make ours,clamp it to one end of a stile asshown at n'glll, aligning the edges.Drill the two ~. holes whereshown in the Stile Detail on the ex·ploded·view drawing. (We rotatedthe table of our drill press to verti­cal and aligned the stile with the bit

\4' hole ,*0 deep

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS

• •I I

r- --;. i --;;2y,..,-1~---_------

I CUTTING DIAGRAM

0/4 X 5112 x60" Oak

@

®

®

Glue or nailto plywood.

1f.l" plywood

DOWELING JIG5 Using carbon paper or a photo­copier, make a copy of the full-sizedbracket pattern on page 9. Next,trace it twice onto your %" oak. Ifyou make photocopies, adhere themdirectly to the wood pieces. (Toavoid splitting the wood, we laid outthe brackets so the wood grain runsvertically in these two pieces.) Drill!4" start holes in each of the fan­shaped openings. Scrollsaw theseopenings to shape. Saw both of theshelf brackets (E) to shape, cuttingjust outside the line, and then sand­ing to the line. (yVe used a woodrasp and a bastard file to smooththe inside cuts.) Now, finish-sand allof the frame parts with 22Q..grit orfiner sandpaper.

0/4x5V2x4S" Oak)

2 Rout a !4" round-over along thebottom front edge and the ends ofthe shelf. Do not round over the topfront or back edge of the shelf.

9 Using the same router setup,round over the front edge of eachframe opening. Work carefully andkeep the router base flat on theframe face at all times.

Frame

NEXT, MAKE THE SHELFAND BRACKETS1 To make the shelf (D), rip andcrosscut a piece of ~" oak to5 X37". Layout the 1" radius oneach front comer. Next, bandsawthe comers to shape. Sand the cor­ners and edges of the shelf.

3 Mark the centerpoints for thescrew holes along the shelrs topface. See the exploded view for holelocations and the Pilot-Hole Detailfor drilling information. Drill andcounterbore the six holes. (Wedrilled the holes using our drillpress and a counterbore/countersinkbit for this.)

4 Mark, and then drill and coun­tersink the two screw holes at eachend of the frame's back where youwill attach the shelf brackets.

7 Remove the clamps. Sand allfaces and edges of the frame. (yVeused a palm sander with 150- and22Q..grit sandpaper.) Next, place theframe facedown on your bench.Rout a %" rabbet 3;8" deep alongthe back edges of the three frameopenings to receive the mirrors. Seethe Stile Detail. (yVe used a }g" pi­loted rabbeting bit set ~" deep ini­tially, and then made two morepasses, increasing the bit depth 1;8"each time.) Now, chisel the comersof the rabbets square.

S Place the frame face up on yourbench. Next, mount a !4" pilotedround-over bit in your router andthen round over the sides and bot­tom (front edge only) of the frame.Do not round over the top rail. (Asshown above right, we placed a pieceof scrap wood flush with the ends ofthe top rail to protect its comerswhen routing the sides.)

before drilling the ends.) Drill theother end and the remaining threestiles the same way.

5 To drill the mating holes in therails, clamp the jig along the edge ofthe rail, aligning the jig's edge withone of the stile marks you made instep 3. Drill the !4 ~ holes * N deep.Drill the seven remaining sets of railholes the same way, always placingthe jig's back on the front surface.

6 Crosscut 16_1%" lengths of J4"dowel, and sand a slight round-overon the ends. Glue (we used yellowwoodworker's glue) the dowels inthe ends of the fOUf stiles. (We ap­plied a small amount of glue in eachhole, and then used a nail to coatthe insides of the holes.) Now, as­semble the mirror frame, insertingthe dowels extending from the stilesinto the glue-coated holes in therails. Clamp the frame (we used barclamps centered on each stile). Wipeoff glue squeeze-out.

TAVERN MIRROR

8 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

2 Place one of the brackets in posi·tion against the shelf and frame andsquare the bracket. Using the holesin the shelf as guides, drill the pilotholes into the bracket, and thendrive the screws. Attach the otherbracket to the shelf. Tum the as­sembly facedown, and using theholes in the frame, drill pilot holesinto the brackets. Drive the screws.

TIME TO ASSEMBLEAND FINISH THE FRAME1 Clamp the shelf in position ontop of the frame, and align the endsso 1n of the shelf extends beyondeach end of the frame. Using thepreviously drilled holes in the shelfas guides, drill Y8 n pilot screw holes% n deep into the top rail. Drive the#6 X 1\4 n flathead wood screws.(We applied wax to the screws tohelp them tum more easily.)

\,,

\\L...--\I

[)fill 14· start holes andScrollsawopenings.

BRACKET PATTERN

3 Cut three mirrors to fit inside theback rabbet of each frame opening.(The rabbetted openings in ourframe measure 9~ X I()3A~.) Test-fitthe mirrors in the frame openings.Cut three J4"-thick plywood panels(F) to back the mirrors.

4 Mark the centerpoints for thecoat hooks on the bottom rail. (Seethe Buying Guide for a mail ordersource.) Drill V16~ pilot holes Y2~

deep. Do not attach the hooks yet.

5 Cut six %~ plugs from scrap oakwith a plug cutter. Glue one in eachof the counterbored screw holes inthe shelf top. Sand the plugs flushwith the shelf surface.

6 If you are adding an embossedornament as we did (see the BuyingGuide for information on our

Buying Guide• Acorn hooks. Brass hook, 3- high,project 30/. - forward. Catalog no.BH71. Price: $17.20 postage paid forset of four. From: Albert Constantine &Son, Inc., 2050 Eastchester Road,Bronx, NY 10461-2297. Telephone: 1·800-223-8087.

• Embossed ornament. Medallion,V.- thick, 20/,· high, 4¥2- long, catalogno. WC3059. Price: $1.20 each, plus$3.60 handling (if not ordered withabove hooks or separately). $10 mini­mum order. Same source as above.

choice), position, glue, and clamp itin place now. (We centered the me­dallion from side to side and top tobottom on the bottom rait) Removeglue squeeze-out with a damp cloth.

7 Apply the finish of your choice.(First, we brushed on a coat of me­dium oak oil stain, let it set forabout five minutes, and then wipedoff the excess with a dry cloth. Welet the stain dry overnight, and thenapplied three coats of lacquer, sand­ing with 320-grit sandpaper aftereach coat dried.)

8 Attach the coat hooks with thescrews provided with the hooks.Place the mirrors in the frame open­ings. Position the protective ply­wood panels behind the mirrors andnail them in place. (We used#17X I" wire brads.)

9 To mount the tavern mirror onyour wall, temporarily position themirror where you intend to hang it.Locate the wall studs and marktheir locations on the backside ofthe top frame rail. Attach a loop­type mirror hanger at each markedlocation on the back, 9/16~ downfrom the top edge of the rail. Drive#8 Xr roundhead wood screwsinto the studs so the heads extendfar enough from the wall to catchthe hanger loops. Hang the mirroron the screws.

Project design: Jamie Downing lJIuslClltions: Carson Ode; Kim Downing PhotogCllph: John Hetherington

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEC!"S SEPTEMBER 1990 9

2 Using the dimensions on theSides and Front Drawing, routa rabbet (we used a ~ ~.

straight bit) along both endsof the front piece. Cut a13~' length of scrap and

temporarily nail it to the endsof each side. Next, apply glue

(we used yellow woodworker'sglue) to the rabbets of the front

piece and join them with the ends ofthe side pieces to complete the boxframe. Now, align the edges, squarethe comers, and clamp.

Note: Before slarring Ike album. buya slandard 3-n'ng binder measuringIlh' wide and II" 10"" with 20'­diameler rings. Wilh a hacksawblade, cuI Ihe rivels Ihal hold Ihebinder 10 Ihe cardboard backing.

3 Install a 1/16-·thick plywoodblade in your tablesaw and elevate itto 1/16' above the table.' With asquare placed against the blade,,~.

"'.'./~./\ "., ,..... ~............ .....

..... -::;....... .... .........T..........,."..... nalI ................. ....--., ,.... scrap 10 ends of ® parts

..... using two # 4 finish nails

~,,<eaoh_

"V" I~'I ®

SIDES AND FRONTDRAWING

FIRSI, MAKE THE BOOKFRONT AND SIDES1 Rip and crosscut a piece of~ - stock (we used oak) to

3 x4(Y. Plane or resaw the pieceto ~ - thickness. From it, cut onelength measuring 13~- for the

front (A), and two 11 \4­lengths for the sides (B). (See theCutting Diagram on page 12 for

help in laying out the pieces.)

The next time you shop for a photoalbum, check its quality. You'U findmost made of plastic-covered cardboard.If your family photos deserve better,then picture them in this leather-boundoak album. It's the perfect coffee-tablecenterpiece and a project your familywill cherish for years.

ONE-OF-A-KIND ALBUM DESIGN

BOOK OFMEMORIES

10 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEFfEMBER 1990

14'

~Brassrtvet

'Iu· holes

RIVET DETAIL

(Leather strapBrass rivet

tb

•

Right hallof frame

~

#8 x VI· pan -"';:::"'c

"'j he~~\ y't J r: /" WdOWel.",0""J \~ ./ Note: Glue dowetlnto 1"/32•

. ~ hole in right half of frame.Three-ring binder

0 1

'(

VII' round-ovefs on all butinside top and bottom edges.

rh," hole %. deep with a '/u'hole centered inside lor mountingstrap to @ with brass rivets.

1 v..'),

,h,' saw kerfs I h,'deep spaced 'I,,· apart.

KERF DETAIL

,,,.:::::l'r

'/u· hole

Yt' round-Overs on _all edges, except theInside back edge.

Bill 01 Materials

strike a pencil line perpendicu­lar to the blade on the saw ta­ble surface and to the rightside. Starting at the blade,place a mark V16" from theblade. Next, make 24 marks,one every w," from this markalong the line. Now, lock therip fence at the V16" mark.

4 To simulate the look ofbook pages (see the Kerf Detailon the exploded-view drawingabove), place the frame againstthe fence, tum on the saw, and,as shown at n"gh" saw a kerfalong the sides and front. Stopthe saw, mO'le the fence to the nextmark, and saw a second kerf. Now,using the marks as guides, saw kerfsalong both sides and the front.

5 Raise the blade to ~", lock thefence 17/16" from the blade, and cutthe frame in two lengthwise, includ­ing the temporary scrap end.

6 Measure in I~ .. from both frontcomers along the top front edge ofthe right half frame, and mark thecen[erpoints for two ~" holes. (Seethe exploded view.) Drill these holes-liI" deep on your drill Press. clamp­ing the frame to prevent movement.Next, place ~" dowel centers inthese holes. Put the mating left half

'''''finIshId Sin

iT W 1 tA ."", W ,. 13\11,· 0 1

B """ ~. 3' 11~· 0 2

C "".. '/,," 11\4" 14' 0 2

D b'd< ~. 3W 14' 0 1

Material key: O·Oak.Supplies: Gold enamel paint, small brush, 3­ring binder. 2-#6x ¥to pantlead screws. stain,polyurethane finish. album fillet pages.

frame on top of the right half frame,align the edges, and then press themtogether to mark the locations forthe mating holes in the left halfframe. Now, drill the two newlymarked VJ2" holes V16" deep.

7 Cut two ~. lengths of ~" doweland bevel-sand the ends. Apply gluein the \4. holes you drilled in theedges of the bottom side piece instep 6. Insert the dowels, allowing!4. to protrude. Test the fit by join­ing the two half frames together.

OJntjnued

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs SEPTEMBER 1990 11

IPHOTO ALB

@

© :Y.X7Wx60"Oak

A

ADD THE LEITERS, FINISH,AND THEN ASSEMBLE1 Finish-sand all but the paintedkerfs on the sides and front. Forunifonn staining of both end grainand flat surfaces, apply paste woodfiller, following label directions.Wipe off the residue. Next, apply astain and let it dry. (We applied agolden-oak stain.)

2 Lightly finish·sand the unpaintedalbum parts. Position the letters onthe cover. (We used -% ~ laser-cutwalnut letters for "THE" and "A~BUM," and I ~ letters for the familyname and the word "FAMILY."See our Buying Guide at the end fora mail order source, or paint the let­ters if you like.) Mark the letter 10­eations, and then glue each in place.Weight the letters with a piece ofplywood until the glue dries.

3 Erase pencil marks and removeany glue squeeze-out. Apply the fi­nal finish to all surfaces. (We ap­plied two coats of polyurethane,sanding with 32O-grit sandpaper be·tween coats.)

4 Cut two \4l X-% X25J,2~ leatherstraps for hinges using a sharp utili­ty knife and straightedge. (We pur·chased our leather supplies from alocal Tandy leather store. See theBuying Guide to mail order.) Trimthe ends of each strap. Apply thedye to the straps and let it dry. Fi·nally, apply a sheen leather finish.

the panels to make a front and backcovers (e), using the dimensions

listed in the Bill of Materials.

©

6 After the glue dries, carefully reomove the scrap pine pieces attachedto the ends of each frame half.

B

CUTTING DIAGRAM

MAKE THE BOOK'S BACK1 For the book's back (D), rip andcrosscut a piece of -%" oak to thedimensions listed in the Bill of Ma­terials on page 1I.

2 Rout the % ... and -%" rabbets J,2 ~

deep on the back piece where shownon the Book Back Drawing aboveleft Next, switch back to the \4l ~

round-over bit you used earlier, androut a round·over along the outsideedges and the two long edges on theinside. (See the exploded-view draw·ing on page 11.)

?"¥." 4 With a !IS" round-over bit,

rout along all but the backinside edges of both covers.

14" 5 To glue the frames to the covers,place the right frame inside facedown on your bench. Apply a bead

BOOK BACK of glue along the three edges of theframe (see the exploded view). Next,lay the back cover on top of theframe, aligning the unrounded edgewith the back of the frame. Allow!4" overhang on the sides and frontClamp the parts together at eachcorner. Now, assemble the leftframe and cover the same way.

...8 Finish-sand the edges and kerfsto remove saw marks and splinters.(When sanding the side kens, wedouble-folded a piece of 150-gritsandpaper and worked the foldededge through each kerf.)

NOW, MAKE AND ATTACHTHE COVERS1 Rip and crosscut a piece of ~ ~

oak to 3 X f:/.Y. Resaw the piece inhalf with a \4l"-thick carbide-tippedrip blade to get two 5/16"·thicklengths. (We used our tablesaw withthe blade elevated to B4", sawedalong one edge, turned the pieceover and end for end, and thensawed through the remaining half.)Sand away all saw marks.

2 Place a pencil mark along thelength of one piece. Crosscut both5/16" pieces into four 15~ lengths.For matching grain, dry-assemblethe marked pieces as one panel, theunmarked ones as the second. Edge­join the panels with glue and clamp.

3 Scrape any glue squeeze-out fromthe panel joints and sand away thesaw marks. Now, rip and crosscut

9 Apply masking tape to bothedges of each frame half. Brush afast-drying gold enamel paint on thekerfed surfaces. After it dries, applya second paint coat. Let that paintdry and remove the tape.

12 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs SEPTEMBER 1990

5 Lay the straps across the outsideface of the back and l!AI # in fromthe ends. Allow the same length ofstrap to extend beyond each edge.Chuck a 5h2~ brad-point bit in yourdrill press and drill two holesthrough each strap and the backwhere shown on the exploded-viewdrawing. Set the straps aside, flipthe back over, change to a 7/16~ drillbit, and drill o/8~-deep holes at the5h2~ hole locations.

6 Insert the shaft of a H ~-longbrass rivet through one of the backholes from the inside. Place a strapover the shaft at the appropriatehole location. (You'll need two inex­pensive rivet tools, and a helper tohold the back horiwntal while seat­ing the rivet head.) Next, have yourhelper place the flat end of one rivettool against the flat bottom of therivet shaft and the other end on ahard surface. Press the rivet headonto the rivet shaft, fit the concaveend of the second rivet tool over the

head, and strike the tool with ahammer to seat the head. Seat theother three rivets.

7 Temporarily assemble the album.Position one strap where shown onthe exploded-view drawing and pullit tight. Following the hole measure­ments, mark and drilt through thestrap and cover as shown above.(We inserted finish nails throughthe drilled holes to keep the strapstight.) Locate the holes for the sec-

and strap the same way. Counter­bore the holes on the inside of thecovers following the Rivet Detail onthe exploded-view drawing, and asshown above.

8 Again, with a helper (see illustra­tion below right), follow the processdescribed in step 6 and rivet theleather straps to secure the covers.

9 Locate and dritl small pilot holesfor the #6X Jh# panhead screwsthat hold the three-ring bindermechanism to the back. Screw thebinder to the back. Now, start add­ing pages of beloved family photos.(We purchased 3-ring photographalbum filler pages locally.)

BUYING GUIDE_ Leather supplies. Pro Dye (darkbrown), #2055,4 oz. container, $1.96;Super Shene, # 2002, 4 oz. container,$1.96; daubers, #1629, $.96; rivels(long, brass), # 1275, $4.49; 2-rivetlools, #6100, $1.49 ea.; leather strip,1x 60", #4591, $6.29. Include $3.50for shipping and handling. From:Tandy Lealher Company, P.O. Box2934, Fort Worth, TX, 76113.

_Walnut leUers. ¥4" tall, $.60 ea.; 1"tall, $.65. Shipping: $2 for up to 15 lei­ters; $3.50 for 16-50. From: PaddleTramps Mfg. Co., 1317 UniversityAve., Lubbock, TX 79401. Telephone6061765·9901.

Project Design: Jim Harrold Illustrations: Kim Downing; Carson Ode Photograph: John Hetherington

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990 13

point against the stop block, andcrosscut. Now, turn the piece overand crosscut the end to remove a tn'­angular waste piece and reestablishthe correct angle. Again, turn thepiece over, place the point against thestop block, and saw the next piece.

4 With the correct blade angle set­ting made in step 3, bevel-crosscutthe grooved maple piece while fol­lowing the sequence outlined in theabove note. Cut eight box sides (A).

5 Select one of the pieces for thebottom side. (See the exploded-viewopposite.) Using the dimensions onthe Section View and exploded viewdrawings, layout the centerpointsfor the screw holes. Drill and coun­tersink the two holes on the insideface (groove up).

6 Dry-assemble the 8-sided box.Next, apply glue (we used hide gluefor longer working time) to the mi­tered ends of each side and assem­ble. Surround the box with waxedpaper, and then apply a bandclamp. Do not over-tighten. Re­move glue squeeze-out.

7 Make two copies of the full-sizedFace and Back Pattern on page 17.(We used a photocopier, but youcan trace the pattern using carbonpaper. Trace only the outline for theback pattern.) Cut out the patternsand put the face pattern aside. Next,apply a light coat of spray adhesiveon the back pattern, and adhere itto a 9 X9M piece of 1,4"-thick ply­wood. (We used birch plywood.)

8 Cut the plywood back (B) toshape and fit it in the rabbet at theback of the box. (We cut the backpiece on our scrollsaw, cutting out­side the line, and then sanding tothe line.) Remove the pattern (weused lacquer thinner). Glue and nailthe back in place with #17XS/sM

brads. Remove the band clamp.

FOR YOURHOUSEHOW KEYS

THIS ONE'SAKEEPER

(See the setup shown at right.) Ele­vate the blade to Ilh" and tilt it to22Y.l· from vertical. Follow the cut­ting steps outlined in the followingnote and test-cut eight scrap pieces.Test-assemble the pieces into an oc­tagon to check the blade setting.Adjust the blade's angle if neces­sary, and retest again.

Note: To bevel-crosscut the box sides,first place the 36"'-long piece againstthe miter gauge with the grooved sideup, and bevel-crosscut the left end.Clamp a stop block to the auxiliaryfence 4'" to the left of the blade. Next,turn the piece upside down, place the

Ever been in a big rush toget somewhere and sudden­ly discover that you've mis­placed your keys? It'sfrustrating, isn't it. Why

not get things under control by build­ing this novel key keeper? Mount theattractive storage uuit on your kitchenwall or other convenient location.

LET'S MAKE THE BOX FIRST1 From ~ ~-thick maple rip andcrosscut one piece to 2% X 36n

• Seethe Cutting Diagram on page 17.

2 Following the Rabbet Detail onthe exploded-view, cut a 5h2~ rabbet!4 n deep along one edge of the piecewith your tablesaw. Next, mount a!h. n dado on your saw, and cut the!4 "-deep groove.

3 Place your miter gauge in thesaw table's slot located to the rightof the blade. Attach an auxiliarywood fence to the miter gauge so itextends 10" beyond the saw blade.

14 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS SEPTEMBER 1990

----------------------1

Backsideof door

Glass

I. "," bb"")00

~

@

%t" pilot holeV.' deep

SECTIONVIEW

@Face

Va' glass

'\t Brass cup\hOOk

©

i

I

.'

®

Screw and washer formagnetic catCh.

Material key: M-maple; P-birch~.SUpplies: l-Y.!· brass door pull, 9-44' brasscup hooks, 1~6x3' brass continuous hinge,,l1x%' brads, Yex6Y1x6Y2' plale glass.finish, 2 screws or wall anchors for mounting.

Cut part marked \lrittl an • to final size duringconstruction. Use patterns to cut parts markedwith ". Please read the instructions carefullybefore cutting.

®Back

Bill of Materials

PortF1nilhed Silt"

~T W §A' "'" ". ,,," 4" M 8

B" back ." 8~' 8W P

C cleat •• ,. 8' M ,0" face •• 8W 8~" P

E 'BY ". 3W 11" M ,blade

%1' hole countersunk

¥." groove,V." deep

7/e.t" pilot hole,

" deep

;'18' round magnetic catch

11"

NEXT, cur THE DOOR, THEFACE, AND THE KEY BLADE1 Set your tablesaw's rip fence rfrom the inside face of the sawblade. Raise the blade to 13/16~

above the table top. Next, hot-meltglue or tape four ~ ~-thick scrapblocks to the inside of the boxwhere the cutline will be. (Weplaced them on alternate sides.)These blocks hold the box and doortogether while sawing. Now, placethe box on edge with the backagainst the fence and, as shown onpage 16, carefully saw the doorfrom the box, rotating to exposeeach side as you work. Remove thescrap blocks and separate the doorfrom the box. Finish-sand all parts.

Brass hook Miler comers ot

Mount box 10 wall using ® at 22'h'. 4'~

-I6x lV2" F.H. brass~ )1,2~~t~-;~I 1Ylsx3" brasswood screws. continuous hinge

- ,!... ~..,J)" )C~t VJ..!,;11--- 1. m

WI~-'~II

'It' groove Y.· deep

Sf:l2' rabbetV.' deep

( 36" ®

--..I".p"""/i( RABBET DETAIL

~.l.l::~~~ Ur/1e'mortise,~-q V,e' deep

(- -------C~~~~~:V-:J 3"100

9#17x%"bradto ~~1~:e_ '(Wfasten back to box.

#6Xl1h'F,H. ®brass wood

~-----------~ ",,'w _-I'~==r:::!;~%' maple

10 Layout the centerpoints for thecup hooks on the cleats as shownon the Hook Detail. Drill pilotholes for the hooks where marked.

9 Rip and crosscut a piece of ~ H

maple to 1H wide and 12' long. Re­saw it in half. Sand, and then cross­cut both to fit as cleats (C) insidethe box. See the Hook Detail on theexploded view for details on cuttingthe ends on the top cleat.

COn/iI/urn

WEEKENDWOOOWORKING PROJEcrs SEPTEMBER 1990 15

KEY KEEPER

Stop groovehere.

"4" groove'I." deep

Sand 10 breakhard edge.

10"

Pis"

¥,"

,,,--'----t-)

BLADEHooks

Miter corners 01@at22W.

HOOKDETAIL ®

Trim top corner of cleatat a 45' angle.

2 Layout the location of the hingemortise on the box and mating doorwhere shown on the explooed-viewdrawing. With a sharpknife, score around thethree sides of the hinge.

3 Clamp the box to yourwork surface and cut thehinge mortises. (We used arouter with an auxiliaryfence attached to the baseand adjusted it so the !4 N

straight bit cut to thewidth needed.) Now, chiselthe mortise corners square.

1------

e Opalescent glaS8. Custom cutto fit the octagonal door rabbet.State color preference: royal blue­white, raspberry-pink, carmel·brown, orange-yellow, or white withamber swirls. Price: $12.50 postagepaid. From: The Stained GlassStore, 3617 Ingersoll, Des Moines,IA 50312. Phone: 515-279·4855.

4 Adhere the face pattern to apiece of !4 N birch plywood. Cut the8·sided panel to shape. Fit it intothe door rabbet, placing the bottomedge in the door bottom. Removethe face from the door.

5 Drill 14 N start holes through eachof the areas on the face patternmarked with an X. Scrollsaw the ar­eas to shape. Sand or file the cutedges if necessary to make thelllstraight and smooth. Remove thepattern from the plywood. Finish­sand the face, and then glue andclamp it in the door rabbet.

6 To make the key blade (E), ripand crosscut a piece of =}4" maple to3~Xll~. Use the dimensions onthe Blade Drawing top right, to layout the cuts. Mount a dado set toyour tablesaw and cut the groove inthe face of the piece, stopping 114"from the end. Scrollsaw the piece toshape, and finish-sand.

AND NOW FOR THEFINAL TOUCHES1 Attach the key blade to the bot­tom segment of the box. (We pokedan awl through the screw holes inthe bottom of the box to mark thehole locations on the blade, andthen drilled the 7164" pilot holes I"deep in the end of the blade.)

Buying GuideeMagnetlc catch. Round, !¥is' di­ameter. Catalog no. 55F23. Price:80 cents each. Minimum order $15.Shipping and handling, $3.60 on or­ders up to $15.00. From: AlbertConstantine & Son, Inc. 2050 East­chester Rd., Bronx, NY. Telephone212-792-1600.

2 Glue the cleats in the box whereshown on the exploded view. (Weapplied a moderate amount of gluewith a small brush to reduce thepossibility of squeeze-out.)

3 Apply the finish of your choice.(We stained our key keeper withPratt & Lambert pecan wood stain(S29), let it set for five minutes, andthen wiped off the excess. After thestain dried, we applied three coatsof lacquer, sanding with nO-gritsandpaper between coats.)

3 Drill the 11;32" hole ~~ deep forthe S/16" magnetic catch. (See theBuying Guide for a mail~order

source.) Insert the catch in the hole.Screw the cup hooks into the cleats.

4 Position the hinge in the mor­tises, mark the screw holes, andthen drill 3/32" pilot holes. Attachthe hinge. Now, screw the washer tothe door opposite the catch, and at·tach the pull knob.

5 Using the face pattern,cut a glass panel to fit inthe door rabbet behind theface. (We used 14 ~-thickcarmel-brown opalescentglass purchased at a localstained-glass store. See theBuying Guide if you wishto mail-order similar glass.)Install the glass in the rab­bet. (We applied a bead ofhot-melt glue along the rab-bet in the top and bottom segments,and then set the glass panel in it.)

6 Attach your key keeper to thewall. (To mount ours, we firstdrilled and countersank holes cen­tered inside the box 1~ down fromthe top and I" up from the bottom,and then drove #6X Ph~ brasswood screws into the wall studs. Ifyou locate it between studs, use wallanchors to secure it finnly.) Now,share the project with other familymembers and, if you like, assign ahook or two to each one.

®

16 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS SEPTEMBER 1990

I

@@

@

Y. X 12 X24" Birch plywoodSaw oul all

areas markedwith an@

• C

®31. x 51h X 48" Maple

A

@

A

®

CUTTING DIAGRAM

FACEAND Note: Trace only outerBACK outline lor back.

PATTERN

Project Design: Gtorge Myhel'VQld, Des Moines, la. IIlusl!lItions: Kim Downing; Carson Ode Photogr1lph'~,~Jo~h~'~""~hoID~·~,g~,oo~ __";!:::;:;:;:=:;;:;~J

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECfS SEPTEMBER t990 17

PICTURE PUR-R-R-FECT

INTARSIASTILL-LIFE

Scrollsawers, if you've never tried your hand at intarsia(using pieces of wood to form a mosaic), then you're

missing out on one of the hest woodworking experiencesever. We had expert Don Klasing design our cat-in-the­window intarsia. Don often contrasts the natural rough-

sawn cedar with painted wood parts, as he's done here, tocreate his imaginative Siamese cat scene.

SfART WITH THE FRAME1 From ~ ~-thick rough-sawn west­ern red cedar, rip and crosscut twoPh X24" side rails (A), and thentwo I~ X20" end rails (8). See theCutting Diagram on page 19. Cut a-MIN rabbet V<i" deep along one edgeof each piece. Next, layout the win­dow frame (see the exploded-viewopposite), and then miter-crosscutthe ends of each frame member,sawing the pieces to the lengths list­ed in the Bill of Materials.

Note: We selected paneling grade,rough-sawn western red cedar withno surfacing for our intarsia. De­pending on the mill the cedar camefrom, you'll find 8" stock typicallyvarying in width from 7VJ6" to 7~~

When selecting your stock, make cer­tain you '/I have 7~ ".wide panels af­ter jointing the edge. Buy the driestcedar you can to minimize IVarping.

2 Glue and nail (we used yellowwoodworker's glue and 8d finishnails) the frame together, squaringthe comers as you work.

3 Rip and crosscut the \4 ~-thickplywood back (C) to fit the rabbetof your frame. Glue and nail it inplace (we used # 17 X JA" nails).

4 Rip and crosscut a JA N piece ofrough-sawn cedar for the verticalmuntin (0) in the center of theframe. Crosscut two ~"-wide piecesfor the horizontal muntins (E). (Wecut the pieces so the grain ran cross­wise.) Next, rip and crosscut \4 N

plywood strips the same dimensionsas the three muntins. Glue one onthe underside or each muntin tomake them slightly thicker.

THE WINDOW PANELSCOME NEXT1 To make the window panels (F),rip and crosscut four 7\4 X9~~pieces from the cedar. Belt-sand theback side of each panel.

18 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

() '1 LJI-®- _®_'..L.-®_ ® D® @ ® %x714 x72" Cedar

Miter corners

\® HorizOfltal muntin

®

:,±,t.;cH--1,4· plywood spacer ----- - __

( Y.· plywood spacer

~---- .-::::::;:'~i /' !, ,

~\®, ! IIJ."I>()

'I :IJ \

@Vertical muntin

0/. rabbet V.' deepalOng back edge of frame.

,

I

, '

,

!)

@Siderail

#6xo/.",r- F.H. wood screw

/loop-type f. .,e m'rro, haog"r_L---",...-----16~.----f--j

-

2 Using carbon paper or a photo. hesive to the back of the patterns Bill 01 Materialscopier, trace or make copies of the (we used spray mount). Adhereintarsia patterns on pages 20 each pattern to the backside of the .... flnIlhId Slzi I tthrough 23. (Note the patterns as correct panel. Now, with a colored T w lthey appear here have been flopped marker or pencil, mark reference A side rail '" ,~. 2H4" C 2SO you can apply them directly to lines across some of the lines on thethe backside of the panels. The in- patterns. This will help you assem- B end rail ,,- 'W 16%" C 2

tarsia will be correct when you tum ble the parts after they have been C bad< .' 16- '" Pthe parts face up.) sawed out and sanded on edge.

D ,," '" ,,- 20.' CmunUn

3 Layout the four window panels 4 To prevent the small parts of the E - ,,- ,,- ,.- C 2face up and position them the way design from falling through the hole munUn

you want them. (We arranged the in your scrollsaw table, make an F p,'" ,,- ,.. go/." C 4

panels so the grain matched verti- auxiliary top to fit over the top ofMaterial code: C-rough.sawn western fed ce-

cally from the top to the bottom on your saw's table. (We used card- dar; p.pIywood.each side.) Next, tum the panels board.) Saw to the center of the SUppllea: 8d finiSh nails, , 17x:V." nails, acryliCover one by one, and lay each pat- auxiliary table, and then clamp or paints, 2-1oOP-type mitrof hangers.tern on the correct panel. Apply ad- tape it on the table so it can't move.

Project Design: Don KJasing, Enid, Okla. Illustrations: Kim Downing; Carson Ode Photograph: John Hetherington Continued

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990 19

r---------------------~-....,---,­

Edge of panel

lNTARSIA

5 Scrollsaw the design of each pan­el to shape, carefully following thedark cutlines on the patterns. (Wecentered the blade on the line.) Abandsaw equipped with a !t8" bladewill also work. Place the pieces on asheet of plywood or a table as yousaw them out. Cut only along theheavy dark pattern lines. Do notsaw along the light lines-such ason the eye and flower petals. Theyindicate paint color changes.

6 After sawing out the parts, tumthem over so the pattern side facesdown. Next, sand a Y8" bevel alongall of the top edges (opposite pat­tern) of the cut parts. (We used aDremel hand tool fitted with a !-2"drum sander as shown below, butyou could do it on a small drumsander.) Note: Do not round over anyedge that touch the frame.

Edge of panel

--/

,

NOW, PAINT, ANDASSEMBLE THE lNTARSIA1 Paint the intarsia parts. Use theColor Key and the correspondingnumber on the patterns for the col~

ors we used, or create yOUf ownscheme. (OUf painter Susan Henryused Delta brand Cennacoat acrylicpaints [except for the raspberrywine sold by Folkart], and thinnedthem with water to a consistancy ofink. You can find these paints in 2­ounce squeeze bottles at most craftssupply stores. To apply the paint,Susan brushed [!-2~-wide flat artistbrush] on one coat to the top sur­face and edges. The backgroundwas not painted. She painted thedots on the blossom centers last.)

2 After the paints dry, dry-assem­ble all fOUf cut panels outside theframe. Apply glue to the surface of

the plywood backing within thebottom right panel area. Begin­ning at a frame comer and work­ing out, place the individual partsinto the frame. (When possible,we placed the larger pieces first.)with the first window panel in­stalled, glue in the vertical andhorizontal muntins, making sureyou square all comers. Now, us­ing the same technique, glue inthe remaining three panels ac­cording to the pattern. Lay the in­tarsia face up until the glue dries.

3 Before hanging, screw loop­type mirror hangers to the back,r down from the top and I" infrom each side. If you prefer touse saw-toothed hangers, attachthem \" down from the top andI" in from each side. Attach thehooks to the wall. Now, hangyour masterpiece, step back, andenjoy the intarsia!

PAINT COLOR KEY·1 Cape Cod (blue)2 3f4 walnut, 1/.1 black (mixed)3 Old parchment4 Anti ue white5 Mocha6 Leaf green7 Black green8 Burgund rose9 Raspber wine10 Pi skin11 S ice brown12 Area not ainted"Numbers on the patterns corre­spond to these colors.

, ®1 Top left

Note: Pattern is reversed.

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990-

_.------r------------,"'TT-.--'r'r"----~• 2

\Edge of panel

~Paint line-do not saw,

12

3

4

3

12

2

5

-®2 Lower left

Note: Pattern is reversed.

WEEKENDWQODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

Edge 01 panel

Q)fl/inued

21

INTARSIA

,----Edge of panel

®3 Top right

Note; Pattern is reversed.

22

7

12

Paint line-do not saw.

7

12

,

B

B

4

12

7

-

5

52

-®4 Lower right

Note: Pattern is reversed.

WEEKEND WooOWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

(Edge of ",'el

23

START WITH THEBODY SEGMENTS1 Rip and crosscut two pieces of~,. maple to 3'hX20lh'". Face-jointhe two pieces to make a 1'h"-thicklamination and clamp. After theglue dries, remove the clamps andplane or sand the bottom edge ofthe lamination flat. Now, crosscut itinto fOUf 5'"-long rectangles.

2 Rip and crosscut two pieces of-%'" cherry to 31,.2 X20'h'", Next,crosscut fOUf 5"-100g rectangles forthe sides (A) from each piece.

3 Using carbon paper or a photo­copier, make templates of.the pat·terns on page 27. Mark thecenterline<> for the axle and the an·tennae holes on the A template.Now, cut it to shape with scissors.

4 Place the B template on one sideof one maple rectangle, align thebottom and sides, and trace aroundthe pattern's V-shape. Do the sameto the remaining maple rectangles.Bandsaw the V-shaped areas.

5 Fonn the body segments by glu­ing one cherry piece to each side ofthe V-shaped maple centers. Clampall segments until the glue dries.

6 Scribe a centerline across the bot­tom of each body segment. Next,

place the A template on the sideof each segment, align at the

bottom and the centerline,and trace around the curved

template. Mark the center­points for the axles.

7 Bandsaw the body seg­ments to shape. (We cutjust outside the curvedline, and then sanded to

the line using our disc sand·er.) Next, select one of the

segments for the head, center!!!lI......._--r; the A template on the side of it_ again, and using a try square,

ROCK'N'ROLLWIGGLE WORM

Once onr small-fry learn towalk, they usually wantsomeone to join them in theirleisurely strolls through the livingroom and kitchen. Our tag-alongwiggle worm promises hours ofcompanionship and fun. On the roll,his segmented body rocks from sideto side while his cam-driven antennaepump up and down.

24 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

® Center

v." hole¥eo deep

Axle hole plugged

CAM DETAIL

WHEEL DETAIL

Bill 01 Materials

PortAnl~hed Size*

~r w l • tA' .de ,,' 3W' 5' C 6

B' ""'I~ 1W' 3W' 5' M 4

C "'" l1A"dia lV,S" D 2

21'.1:x%"

Assembled body ®segment

\.

(V. X4" dowel

V• • flat washers

1,4 x4" dowel

~

'%4" hole 0/3" deepdrilled at 45" angle.

1, \l. :

hi•

I®

@~#14xW I

brad--

HEAD DETAIL

2V&l" holesdriliedat_,,~UI I I,r angle. ,

7AII1+1 \1;:::=;-'/."

(2% x~· wheel

r.:-,,---, Antennae

v.. "wood ball

'---

lIJ'li" dowel20/." long

Yt" wood ball,flattened onone end.

#3x¥4" R.H.wood screw-~Y

ANTENNA DETAIL

S/.a" hole V.' deepGlue ball 10 dowelafter assemblinghead.

transfer the lines locatingthe antenna and eye holesacross the sawn edge.Now, measure in 1" fromeach edge and mark an­tenna hole centerpoints.

8 Set up your table-mounted router as shown on theChamfer Detail on page 26. Cham­fer the curved edges on both sides ofall body segments. (We set the bit atIh" for the first pass, then reset it toM1~ for the second pass.)

NEXT, DRILL THE HEAD,AXLES, AND WHEElS1 To drill the two angled holes forthe antenna, chuck a 2lj64~ bit inyour drill press and tilt the table to15° from horizontal. Next, rip a

'Cui paris marked with an ' 10 final size duringconstruclioo. Please read lhe instructiOns be­lore cuning.

Material key: Ccheny; M·maple; [).dowelSupplies: 14· dowel, 8-14· llal washers,2-#3)(:114' roundhead wood screws,2-#14)(111:' brads, nylon poll cord.

continued

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990 25

o'''OJ ®~. "

CHAMFERDETAIL

4 To make the eyes, crosscut theshafts on two 7/32'"' toy axle pegs to%- long. Glue a %'"' axle cap ontothe heads of each axle peg. Putthem aside for painting.

''0 ,n"",C".bil":!!;",__L-_

",'

3 Sand to flatten one face on the~ - wood balls, and then drill a V16­hole through both. Carefully glueand screw a ball to one end of eachantenna dowel as shown in the An·tenna Detail (we used #3X.:}4·roundhead wood screws). Do notattach the balls to the other end ofthe dowels yet.

2 For the two antennae (see theAntenna Detail), crosscut two 2* '"'lengths of ;-'16· dowel. Next, place a*. wood ball in a wood screwclamp, and using a M6'"' bit, drill a\4 '"'-deep hole. (We sanded one sideto flatten it, and drilled into thatarea.) Drill the second ball.'

--l "o~

¥o& x ¥o& x 12" Pine .......

Shim

axle holes drilled in three wheels,and one in the redrilled center ofone of the head segment wheels.

MAKE mE ANTENNAEAND EYES1 To make the antennae cams (C),crosscut two I VI 6'"' lengths from a1\4 '"'-diameter dowel. If you don'thave a dowel this size, you can cutthem using a circle cutter or scroll­saw from .:}4 '"' scrap. Next. tape thecams together end for end. Usingdimensions on the Cam Detail, lo­cate the centerpOmt for the 17/64'"'hole. Drill the hole through bothpieces. Separate the cams, removethe tape, and then insert a ~ '"' dow­el through the cam holes. Offset thecams 180· as shown on the HeadDetail. Now, glue the cams together(but not to the dowel) in that offsetposition. After the glue sets, removethe cam assembly from the dowel.

F""""..-/

Saw blade angled-.....to 7". ,

SHIM DETAIL

4 Drill the ofT<entered axle holeson the inside face of six wheels us­ing the dimensions on the WheelDetail on page 25. (See the BuyingGuide opjXJSite, for our source ofwheels and other needed parts.)

5 Glue a %'"' axle peg in the axlehole of all eight wheels. After theglue has dried, saw off the peg shaftprotruding from the inside face ofeach wheel.

6 Drill a !4.-diameter hole ~ '"'deep centered on the inside face ofthe two wheels you selected for thehead segment.

7 Crosscut four 4'"' lengths of ~.

dowel for the axles. Sand a slightchamfer on each end. Glue one endof three of the dowels in the offset

2 Using the line you scribed acrossthe head segment earlier, and the di­mensions on the Head Detail, plotthe centerpoints for the two eyes.Switch to a 1¥64- bit, tilt the drillpress table to 45-, and align the bitwith the centerpoint. Next, clampthe head in position, and then drillan eye hole. Now, drill the secondeye hole. Change to a ~ W bit anddrill the hole for the pull cord.

3 Switch to a 11/64- bit and squarethe drill press table to the bit Lay abody segment on its side on top ofthe piece of scrap, clamp, and drillan axle hole through the segment.Drill the axle holes in the otherbody segments the same way.

12-·)00g, 7--beveled shim fromscrap and place it under the sideedge of the head to be drilled tocant the head. See the Shim Detailat right, and the Head Detail onpage 25. Align the head and shimwith the bit, clamp the head finnly,and then drill the hole as shownabove right. Reposition the head andshim and drill the second hole.

WIGGLE WORM

I

26 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEPTEMBER 1990

E~'O~.~B~Ck Align patt9fn bottom

Whitewith bottom of segment

PAINTING PATTERN

( 811.........

+Top

J Q.taut.....

-7;

Bottom--........

®

WholefOf cord.

Align pattern bottomwith bottom of segment

I7Aw- axle hole

15/e;(' eye hole

-..-/

Use this line 10 center ,.Jpattern on segment

t .....• antenna hole

~

Top

®

@Template PATTERNS @Template

TIME TO FINISH ANDASSEMBLE YOUR WORM1 Finish-sand all parts and then ap­ply the finish of your choice. (Weapplied two coats of lacquer, sand·ing after each coat with 32o-gritsandpaper.) Finish the eyes. (Westained half of each axle cap, andpainted the other half white. Afterthat coat dried, we painted the pupilareas black.)

2 To assemble the head, tum thesegment upside down, and insertboth antennae through the antennaeholes from inside the cavity. Pick upthe assembleJ front axle and wheel,slip a \4 - zinc washer over the dow­el, and then insert the dowelthrough the axle hole drilled in thesegment's side. Next, place the camsinside the cavity and slide the axledowel through the cams. Now, passthe end of the dowel through the

axle hole in the other side, place awasher over the axle, and glue onthe other front wheel.

3 Center the cams on the axlewithin the cavity. Nail the cams tothe axle with # 14 X~ ~ brads.

4 Turn the head aver and glue thedrilled ~ - balls on the ends of bothantenna dowels. Glue the eyes (axlepegs) in the eye holes.

5 Assemble the wheels and axles onthe remaining body segments asshown on the exploded view. Posi­tion the paired wheels so they offseteach other lSO-.

6 Locate a centerpoint for thescrew eyes in the center of the seg­ments and 1- up from the bottom.Drill 1116- pilot holes, and thenscrew alA- screw eye into each of

these holes. Next, line up the seg­ments, and using a needle--nose pli­ers, bend the loop of one of thepaired screw eyes open. Now, hookthe opposing screw eyes together,and then close the open loops.

7 Clamp a 1Y.!: --diameter wood ballin a wood screw clamp and drill aWI- hole through the center. Next,thread a 15- length of 1Al:- nyloncord through the hole in the balland the head. Now, tie knots onboth ends of the cord.

Buying Guide• Worm kit, Includes the woodwheels, lOy axle pegs, axle caps,wood baits, and screw eyes. catalogno. 9200. Price: $8.50 postage paid.Send check to Meisel Hardware Spe­cialities, P.O. Box 7G-WEW7, Mound,MN 55364-0070.

PTc;ect Design: Richard Milam, Metairie, La. lUustJations: Kim Downing: Canon Orde Photovaph: John Hetherin&ton

WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJECTS SEP'nMBER 1990 27

FUN-TIME TOTE BOXFOR YOUR PRESCHOOL ARTISTS

A place for everything, andeverything in its place-that describes

this easy-to-build child pleaser.DriUed holes and compartments

create storage for crayons, pencils,scissors, glue, and other art

necessities. And, a convenient dowelhandle enables your budding Picassoto tote his or her tools of the trade

from place to place.

CUT THE BOX PARTS1 Rip and crosscut a piece of ~ N

pine to 5=% X lr. See the CuttingDiagram opposite.

2 Photocopy or trace two copies ofthe end (A) patterns (on page 29),cut them to shape, and adhere bothto the pine board. (We used sprayadhesive for this.)

3 Bandsaw the two end pieces toshape. (We cut outside the line, andthen sanded to the line.)

4 Make the sides (E), sawing twopieces of -%" stock to the dimen­sions listed in the Bill of Materials.Using your tablesaw, cut a :}Sit rab­bet !AI" deep along the bottom edgeof each side piece.

5 Using a lA It round-over bit, routthe end pieces where shown on theexploded view opposite. Bore the %"handle hole % It deep on the insideface of each end. Drill the !4 It holesthrough each piece. Now, removethe paper patterns.

6 Rip and crosscut a piece of ¥! N

pine to 2 X gN for the crayon strip(C), and one piece to 2x 341 N forthe divider (0).

7 Layout the Mi N holes centeredalong the top edge of the crayonstrip and divider, using dimensionson the exploded view. Drill theholes lMiN deep as shown above.

8 From ~ n plywood, rip and cross­cut the 1x>x 1x>ttom (E) to the di­mensions listed in the Bill ofMaterials. Cut eight ~ N dowels andone % N dowel to the indicatedlengths. Finish-sand all parts.

NEXT, ASSEMBLE THE BOX1 Glue and nail (we used yellowwoodworker's glue and 4d finishnails) the divider piece 1~ N fromone end of the crayon strip. See theexploded view for details. Glue andclamp this assembly to a side piece,aligning the parts with the top edgeof the rabbet that you cut along thebottom of the side where shown.

28 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs SEPTEMBER 1990

If>Y4" holes

6

END PATIERN

6

:v. x5Vz x36" Pine

CRAYON BOX

,0 Handle

©

®®

6

Stop roulld-overhere.

... "bbet ~. deer Yo" <o"d,,,,, ~\

#- 17 x 1".,;;"';;"___ v." hole )Jv." dowels 1Vz'long

V4' holes 3/." deep :/

® Side-1

CUTIING DIAGRAM

@Divider

®Sottom

518" hole:va" deep,~,?---

o/e" hole 3fa" deep

~. hole

@End

6

~1/4' holes

Bill 01 MaterialsFinilhed Size*

iP,. tT W L

A' .,,, Vo' 5Vo' 5~' P ,B "'" Vo' ,~. " p ,C crayon Vo' ,. ," Pstrip

0 dividef Vo' '" 3~" P

E bonom ~. 4~",. F

F "",II. o/s'dia. 8~' B

·Parts.cut 10 size during construction.Material Key: P-pine; F-fir pty,y00d, B-birchdowel (%' diamelef).Supplies: Yo" dowel, #17x1" Mils, water·based varnish, acrylic paints.

3 Apply glue in the holes and run abead of glue along the end of theside piece. Next, put the end inplace and tap in two !4 N

dowels (chamfered ends in)to secure the end to the side.Reverse this assembly in thevise, place the other end onthe end of the side piece,and repeat the drilling pro­cess (as in step 2). Removethe assembly from the vise.

2 Clamp the second side piece ver·tically in your bench vise. Place oneof the end pieces on it and align theedges. With a !4 ~ bit, drill throughthe existing holes in the end pieceand 'UI~ deep into the side piece asshown above. (We set a depth gaugeon the drill bit at 1\t2 ~ plus YB" toallow for the glue.)

Continued

74 Clamp the side and cray­on strip assembly vertically

in your vise. Place the end l~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~g~§~...,and side assembly you madein step 3 on top, align edges,

9

1

1

2

,

,

1

1

11

12

2

' ..... " ..,3

,

9

7

2

10

,

3

9

2

'0

7

2 Dark blue 6 Yellow 10 Dark green

1 Black 5 Orange 9 Pink

3 Ughl blue 7 Gray 11 Purple

4 Red 8 Ughl green 12 Aquamarineand then drill the ~" holes throu~g~h--JL -:::;;=====~~~::;;=~;-.L-'L ...J

the end piece and into the side asyou did earlier. Next, glue and dow·el the sidelcrayon strip assembly tothe end. (We clamped a 1!4"-widespacer between the end and dividerwhile the glue dried.)

6 Glue and nail the bottom into theside rabbets and between the ends.(We used # 17 X 1~ nails.)

FINISH IT WITH COWR1 Seal all surfaces. (We applied onecoat of water-based varnish [from acrafts supply store], let it dry, andsanded it with 22o-grit sandpaper.)

COLOR KEY FOR SIDE AND END PANEL

5 Place the completed end of theassembly on yOUf workbench. Ap­ply glue in the %" hole and insertone end of the %N dowel. Next, ap­ply glue to all mating edges, and inthe %" hole in the second end piece.Place that end on the assembly, in­serting the free end of the % H dowelinto the hole. Align the edges, andthen tap dowels into the holes al­ready drilled. Drill the remainingtwo holes into the other side, andglue in those dowels. Square the boxand clamp it (we used bar clamps)until dry. Sand the dowels flushwith the face of the ends.

TOTE BOX

I

I

5

6,

1

1

5

6

6

4

5

12

6

4

5

2 Transfer the painting patternsright, onto the sides of the box, and

.the large pencil pattern onto theends of the box. (We copied the pat­terns onto tracing paper with a #2pencil. Next, we flipped the pat­terns, centered and aligned themalong the box bottom. and tapedthem in place. We then traced overthe lines with a ballpoint pen totransfer the carbon onto the wood.)

3 Now, using a fine brush, paintthe crayons and pencils followingour color key or your own colorscheme. (We used Delta brand Cer­amcoat acrylic paints.) Once dry,apply a second sealer coat.

Pallem Design: Michael G. Harrington Painting: Susan Henry Illustrations: Kim Downing, Carson Ode Photograph: John Hetherington

30 WEEKEND WOODWORKING PROJEcrs SEPTEMBER 1990